Autumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.
A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.
In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.
With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.
A part of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Seiser Alm (“Alpe di Siusi”) – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet brooding image for any trekker. But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.
According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday on the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms around the mountain.
Hikers can visit the hallowed site, referred to as “Witches’ Benches”, where rock formations resemble spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if these are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.
A Witch’s Curse
A story still told today in Seiser Alm is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky.
Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.
Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history. In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine local women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake.
Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays.
Have Broom Will Travel
Getting to the Schlern Mountain is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car near the villages of Ortisei (Mont Seuc cable car) or Castelrotto (Alpe Di Siusi cable car).
Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German) heavily promotes the area’s witch heritage. Visitors to this Alpine village can find witch wood carvings and many themed shops and restaurants not to mention the occasional black cat wandering its cobblestone streets.
The best time to hike all around Seiser Alm without snow is late May through September. Although it is accessible year round. The witching hours of October make an ideal time to explore how land and legend weave together to create stories that stir one’s darkest fears.
The immense Schlern massif forms an unforgettable background for a walk to the Witches’ Benches, which is about 1.5 hours from Compaccio, a settlement on the west end of the prairie near Castelrotto.
While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart. But in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury…
“Beware the autumn people…Where do they come from? The dust. Where do they go? The grave. Does blood stir in their veins? No: the night wind. What ticks in their head? The worm. What speaks from their mouth? The toad. What sees from their eyes? The snake. What hears with their ear? The abyss between the stars. They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles- breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.”
This is awesome! I love stories about witches and I didn’t realize that this area had such a ripe history of them.
Kimberly Love
Author of You Taste Like Whiskey and Sunshine
http://www.kimmilove.com
This is so fascinating and a perfect place to visit around Halloween. I’m not a big hiker but I love history, and would definitely be interested in seeing this in person.
Perfect post for this time of year!!! I have always been intrigued by the history of witchcraft, and I love the urban legend. What a fantastic place to visit, thank you sharing as I had never heard of this region before now.
Wow, those pictures actually put a chill in my body! Perfect for the Halloween spirit!
Wonderful story, and the photos are excellent too. Great post.
What an awesomely creepy post for Halloween! Hiking to the Witches Benches sounds like quite an adventure – and a bit spooky as well! I’ll have to find my way to South Tyrol soon!
Spooky!! What a perfect place to visit for Halloween! The mountains there are eerily beautiful, you can just imagine the witches crowded around a clearing casting spells!
This is so cool! We’ve always wanted to go to the Dolomites but didn’t know that South Tirol is associated with witches! Sounds a bit eerie. Perfect for Halloween! Haha..
Those truly are breathtaking landscapes! I would love to visit sometime.
And the history and folklore of the area is horrifying… But i loved getting to hear about it!
Loved this post! Even better than our visit to Salem. Schlern looks amazingly terrifying!
Awesome story. Fit for the coming halloween. It would be really interesting to visit the castle where witches were tried before. I would love to get the vibe of how it was.
Wow, your post had me at the edge of my seat! Such amazing history in the area. I’d be a little nervous to visit lol, I think I’d be looking over my shoulder every minute!
I love all the witches stories from around the world. It is amazing how much legend is based on the concept of witches. It sometimes makes me wonder how all the stories were developed and what truth is in them.
Oh wow, your photo of Seiser Alm is quite striking – I can definitely imagine that this is a place which has it’s fair share of legends and myths. Schlern looks like it belongs in a Disney movie or storybook – can absolutely imagine a group of witches meeting on this mountain! And yikes – a remarkable example of late Gothic architecture for sure, but Prösels Castle has quite the horrid history!
What a cool trip – amazing how knowledge of local legends and / or history can completely make a trip, and keep you fascinated throughout, just imagining!
Amazing post. I’m not a big hiker but I love history. Enjoy weekend.
Looks certainly like a creepy place. But very very interesting, thanks for sharing Vin and Kate
– Peng
http://www.pengandpaper.com
The culture, the story and the place itself is very interesting. It looks a bit creepy on photo. But I would still love to see this place. 🙂
Wow! Spooky yet beautiful! Thanks for this post, so informational.
Loved reading it. Such an interesting post and the photos look creepy but very cool!
This is so cool. When I think of witches I always thibk of Salem Massachusetts!! But this is so fun and creepy. Would love to check out the Dolomites and see where all these stories took place in Tyrol. Also love your descriptive writing!
This is the coolest thing I’v ever read about South Tyrol! I haven’t yet visited the Dolomites, although I would really love to. And now I know when I want to go! In the fall! I know it’s probably not as great as summer or winter as you miss out on some hikes and skiing, but I love the fall colours and I absolutely loved these witch tales.
OMG how spooky!! I love this. I’ve been wanting to go to South Tyrol but didn’t know witches once roamed there 😉
Love this post!! It’s so well written, sounds like the perfect place to visit on Halloween, had no idea of the history here 🙂
Wow, so spooky! I can see the appeal for travel in October… although I’m a bit of a chicken so it might be too much for me! Hahaha. I’m sure the beautiful landscape would keep me calm though. Beautiful photos 🙂
I have never heard of this mountain range before. It does look really eerie! I love the dramatic black mountains. And also that castle looks amazing. What a great place to explore, definitely need to hike this sometime.
I love this! Your writing made me feel like you were sitting beside me telling me the stories. Thanks for sharing!
The scenery looks epic! I’d love to hike here.
What a unique place to visit – I got chills reading this! I would love to visit (but would be a little scared to go by myself!) and your photos look amazing.
Wow, I never knew this place existed but now I have to go!