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Treks in the Dolomites – Hiking Where Witches Roam

By Kate & Vin 29 Comments

Sciliar Witches
icon

Autumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.

Hiking Trail on Alpe di Siusi
The mountains of Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm) are shrouded in legends and bloodcurdling tales.

With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.

The Witches of Schlern Mountain

A corner of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi  – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet brooding scene for any trekker.

But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.

He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil.

According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday by the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms from Schlern’s fang-toothed peaks. 

Schlern Moutain
Storm clouds gather around the Witches’ Mountain – Schlern / Sciliar.

In fact, one legend tells of a bull grazing the rolling hills near the village of Seis, just below the massif, and discovering a bell in the earth. The villagers hung the mysterious bell in the bulbous spire of the ancient St. Valentin Chapel. When storms reigned down, the residents would fervently ring the bell to break the witches’ spell.

Schlern sunset
The setting sun burns the October sky above the peaks of Schlern.

Hikers can visit a revered site of the witches known as the “Witches’ Benches” (Hexenbänke in German) located on Mount Bullaccia (Puflatsch). Bullaccia haunts to the north of Schlern mountain offering some of most jaw-dropping views of Alpe di Siusi and beyond.

The Witches Benches captivate the imagination. They are rock formations resembling spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if the stone thrones are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.

A Witch’s Curse

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky. 

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Witches of the Dolomites

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history.

Schlern menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed. Their crime? Stealing babies and riding upon brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the Devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake. 

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays. 

Prösels Castle
Prösels Castle was once the site of witch trials in South Tyrol.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:  The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

Have Broom Will Travel

Getting to Alpe di Siusi is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

If you want to experience South Tyrol’s witch folklore firsthand, we recommend departing from Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German). From intricate witch wood carvings to themed shops and restaurants as well as the occasional stray black cat, witches abound from its centuries-old cobblestones. 

Hexenkeller Restaurant in Castelrotto
Restaurants such as the Hexenkeller in Castelrotto pay tribute to the enchanting folklore of the Dolomites.

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although the plateau is accessible year-round.

The witching hours of October make a tempting time to explore how land and legend weave together to create folklore that stirs one’s darkest fears. The cable cars still carry adventurers to the top through much of October if the weather allows it.

Another good time to seek out witches on Alpe di Siusi is on Walpurgis Night, which takes place every May 1st. According to locals, Walpurgis Night is when witches, wizards and other wicked spirits and ghouls meet on Schlern to celebrate the “Witches Sabbath”.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk.

The celebration is said to involve dancing, drinking and feasting until dawn, as well as a guest appearance by the Devil himself in the form of a goat.

For centuries, peasants took measures to protect their cattle on Walpurgis Night. They locked and sealed stable doors with three crosses. In addition, sprigs of ash, hawthorn, juniper, and elder, once sacred to the pagan gods, were used to guard against evil.

However, the night was not filled only with dread. The locals also saw it as a time of omen. Specifically, if it rained. An old saying goes: “On Walpurgis Night rain. Makes good crops of autumn grain,”

How to Reach the Witches’ Benches

witches benches hexenbänke

Once you are on the Alpe di Siusi, the Witches’ Benches are about a 1-2 hour hike depending on which cable car you choose.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk. It menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land. 

  • From Castelrotto, take the Marizen Chairlift to the Marizen Alp. Then follow trail no. 9 through the forestland of Tiosels until you come to trail no. 8, which leads to the right up to Alpe di Siusi.
  • On Alpe di Siusi, trail no. 8 will intersect with trail no. 14. Follow it to the left and stay on it until reaching the Witches’ Benches.
Witches Chairs in Castelrotto
The Witches’ Chairs above Castelrotto make another hex-worthy trek through dense forests.

On your trek back to Castelrotto, you may wish to stay on trail no. 8 descending further down the slope to another mysterious stone formation shrouded in legend: The Witches’ Chairs (Hexenstühle).

Two stones appear as literally chairs facing the valley. Like the Witches’ Benches, it is not known if these are man-made or oddities of nature.

To return to Castlerotto from the Witches’ Chairs, stay on trail no. 8 until you can take a left on trail no. 7 into town.  The hike back is less than an hour. 

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

South Tyrol Casts a Spell

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart.

Its a spell you’ll undoubtedly want to share with others, but sometimes such bewitching autumn hexes are best left for others to discover on their own.

As in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury: “Beware the autumn people…They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles, breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.

SAVE THE WITCHES’ BENCHES TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST!

Witches Hiking Trails in the Dolomites
Thank you for reading. 😘 Share the South Tyrolean Goodness!
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Filed Under: Get to Know South Tyrol, South Tyrol Myths & Legends, South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure Tagged With: Alpe di Siuis, Dolomites, Seiser Alm, South Tyrol Hikes, South Tyrol Historic Sights

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Our articles may contain affiliate links which means if you purchase after clicking a link, we receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Your purchases help ensure we can continue to serve you with inspiring content. Thank you for supporting Throne & Vine  – Kate & Vin.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Lola Mendez says

    October 27, 2017 at 11:18 pm

    Wow, I never knew this place existed but now I have to go!

    Reply
  2. Mae-Gene says

    October 26, 2017 at 10:45 pm

    What a unique place to visit – I got chills reading this! I would love to visit (but would be a little scared to go by myself!) and your photos look amazing.

    Reply
  3. Abbi @ Spin the Windrose says

    October 24, 2017 at 12:14 pm

    The scenery looks epic! I’d love to hike here.

    Reply
  4. Michelle says

    October 22, 2017 at 3:42 pm

    I love this! Your writing made me feel like you were sitting beside me telling me the stories. Thanks for sharing!

    Reply
  5. Chloe says

    October 22, 2017 at 1:13 pm

    I have never heard of this mountain range before. It does look really eerie! I love the dramatic black mountains. And also that castle looks amazing. What a great place to explore, definitely need to hike this sometime.

    Reply
  6. Lindz says

    October 22, 2017 at 11:05 am

    Wow, so spooky! I can see the appeal for travel in October… although I’m a bit of a chicken so it might be too much for me! Hahaha. I’m sure the beautiful landscape would keep me calm though. Beautiful photos 🙂

    Reply
  7. Rachel silverwood says

    October 21, 2017 at 2:27 pm

    Love this post!! It’s so well written, sounds like the perfect place to visit on Halloween, had no idea of the history here 🙂

    Reply
  8. Christie Sultemeier says

    October 21, 2017 at 12:22 pm

    OMG how spooky!! I love this. I’ve been wanting to go to South Tyrol but didn’t know witches once roamed there 😉

    Reply
  9. Eva says

    October 21, 2017 at 9:47 am

    This is the coolest thing I’v ever read about South Tyrol! I haven’t yet visited the Dolomites, although I would really love to. And now I know when I want to go! In the fall! I know it’s probably not as great as summer or winter as you miss out on some hikes and skiing, but I love the fall colours and I absolutely loved these witch tales.

    Reply
  10. Kelly says

    October 21, 2017 at 9:33 am

    This is so cool. When I think of witches I always thibk of Salem Massachusetts!! But this is so fun and creepy. Would love to check out the Dolomites and see where all these stories took place in Tyrol. Also love your descriptive writing!

    Reply
  11. Mathilde says

    October 21, 2017 at 9:26 am

    Loved reading it. Such an interesting post and the photos look creepy but very cool!

    Reply
  12. Emily says

    October 21, 2017 at 8:30 am

    Wow! Spooky yet beautiful! Thanks for this post, so informational.

    Reply
  13. Cai Dominguez says

    October 14, 2017 at 9:13 am

    The culture, the story and the place itself is very interesting. It looks a bit creepy on photo. But I would still love to see this place. 🙂

    Reply
  14. Peng Desuyo says

    October 14, 2017 at 8:55 am

    Looks certainly like a creepy place. But very very interesting, thanks for sharing Vin and Kate

    – Peng
    http://www.pengandpaper.com

    Reply
  15. Dealman says

    October 14, 2017 at 8:38 am

    Amazing post. I’m not a big hiker but I love history. Enjoy weekend.

    Reply
  16. Megan Jerrard says

    October 10, 2017 at 9:50 pm

    Oh wow, your photo of Seiser Alm is quite striking – I can definitely imagine that this is a place which has it’s fair share of legends and myths. Schlern looks like it belongs in a Disney movie or storybook – can absolutely imagine a group of witches meeting on this mountain! And yikes – a remarkable example of late Gothic architecture for sure, but Prösels Castle has quite the horrid history!

    What a cool trip – amazing how knowledge of local legends and / or history can completely make a trip, and keep you fascinated throughout, just imagining!

    Reply
  17. Jennifer Melroy says

    October 10, 2017 at 9:26 pm

    I love all the witches stories from around the world. It is amazing how much legend is based on the concept of witches. It sometimes makes me wonder how all the stories were developed and what truth is in them.

    Reply
  18. Vicky and Buddy says

    October 10, 2017 at 9:14 pm

    Wow, your post had me at the edge of my seat! Such amazing history in the area. I’d be a little nervous to visit lol, I think I’d be looking over my shoulder every minute!

    Reply
  19. carla says

    October 10, 2017 at 6:38 am

    Awesome story. Fit for the coming halloween. It would be really interesting to visit the castle where witches were tried before. I would love to get the vibe of how it was.

    Reply
  20. Carol Colborn says

    October 9, 2017 at 9:18 pm

    Loved this post! Even better than our visit to Salem. Schlern looks amazingly terrifying!

    Reply
  21. Alissa Ackerman says

    October 9, 2017 at 5:04 pm

    Those truly are breathtaking landscapes! I would love to visit sometime.
    And the history and folklore of the area is horrifying… But i loved getting to hear about it!

    Reply
  22. Mei and Kerstin says

    October 9, 2017 at 3:01 pm

    This is so cool! We’ve always wanted to go to the Dolomites but didn’t know that South Tirol is associated with witches! Sounds a bit eerie. Perfect for Halloween! Haha..

    Reply
  23. Claire says

    October 9, 2017 at 12:12 am

    Spooky!! What a perfect place to visit for Halloween! The mountains there are eerily beautiful, you can just imagine the witches crowded around a clearing casting spells!

    Reply
  24. Nick Wheatley says

    October 8, 2017 at 6:04 pm

    What an awesomely creepy post for Halloween! Hiking to the Witches Benches sounds like quite an adventure – and a bit spooky as well! I’ll have to find my way to South Tyrol soon!

    Reply
  25. Colleen Bijl says

    October 8, 2017 at 3:16 pm

    Wonderful story, and the photos are excellent too. Great post.

    Reply
  26. Courtney says

    October 8, 2017 at 1:08 pm

    Wow, those pictures actually put a chill in my body! Perfect for the Halloween spirit!

    Reply
  27. Jennifer@Jenron-Designs says

    October 8, 2017 at 7:23 am

    Perfect post for this time of year!!! I have always been intrigued by the history of witchcraft, and I love the urban legend. What a fantastic place to visit, thank you sharing as I had never heard of this region before now.

    Reply
  28. Lois Alter Mark says

    October 7, 2017 at 11:51 pm

    This is so fascinating and a perfect place to visit around Halloween. I’m not a big hiker but I love history, and would definitely be interested in seeing this in person.

    Reply
  29. Kimberly Love says

    October 7, 2017 at 8:55 pm

    This is awesome! I love stories about witches and I didn’t realize that this area had such a ripe history of them.

    Kimberly Love
    Author of You Taste Like Whiskey and Sunshine
    http://www.kimmilove.com

    Reply

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