Lago di Vernago hides in the folds of South Tyrol’s Val Senales (Schnalstal), wrapped in silence, legend, and amid some of the highest mountain farms in the Alps. Discover a rewarding half-day hike around the lake where history, nature, and culture mingle like spirits between the pines, peaks, and pastures.
You don’t just happen upon a place like Lago di Vernago (Vernagt-Stausee). You get drawn in by a single stirring image or, like us, a half-drunk chat at a rifugio with a stranger.
A lone hiker. A grizzled fella who looked more ghost than guest. His eyes said he’d seen things. His boots agreed. And the way he clutched his beer? You’d think it was the last Pilsner in the Dolomites.
Naturally, when he spoke, we leaned in. Thank God we did …his Tyrolean accent was thicker than a hunk of speck. With eyes peering just above the rim of his mug, he spoke in a hush, like he was giving away a secret the mountains didn’t want told.
“You must go west,” he said, voice low and raspy. “To Schnalstal. In Vinschgau. There you’ll find a lake… quiet like church, but no priest. Vernagt See, they call it. Lago di Vernago.” He leaned in closer. “It hides things. Whole farms. A church. The old village. All under the water now. But the silence? It stays on top.”
He took a final swig, wiped his mouth with the back of his hand, then looked away for a second, as if staring at something miles, or years, away. “Is not for everyone. But maybe… maybe is for you.”
And with that, he stood, nodded once, and disappeared into the mist like a man returning to wherever myths go when they’re off duty. We didn’t even catch his name. Just a place. Yet we were hooked. Not by brochures or Instagram reels, but by a story passed over a frothy mug in a mountain hut. It felt less like a travel tip and more like a dare.
We scribbled the name down on a napkin: Lago di Vernago. And bolted the conversation to our memory like a trail marker. What follows is everything we learned when we finally went: how to get there, where to hike, and why the silence still hasn’t let us go.
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How to Reach Lago di Vernago
You’ll find Lago di Vernago deep in the upper reaches of Val Senales, a glacial-carved valley nestled beneath the towering peaks of the Ötztal Alps. It sits at an elevation of 5,577 feet (1,700 m) within South Tyrol’s Val Venosta (Vinschgau) region, which lies 40 minutes northwest of Merano.
If you are driving in Italy, you’ll adore the road trip to the lake. After passing through Merano, you’ll wind your way through a patchwork of orchards, vineyards, and mountain-hung castles. Then, you veer north into Val Senales, where the landscape begins to climb and the scenery transforms — from rows of grapes and apples to forests flush with pine.
And just when you think the road might end in a goat path, you arrive at Vernagt. This shoreside hamlet is dotted with farms, guesthouses, and a quaint white church, which is where you’ll encounter a great place to park.
Good to Know: If you are hungry after arriving at Lago di Vernago, next to the parking area is the Leithof. This simple cafe offers a lovely terrace overlooking the lake.
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The History of Lago di Vernago
Before embarking on a hike around Lago di Vernago, it pays to know how the lake came to be. Beneath its surface lies another world. One swallowed whole in the 1950s. The creation of Lago di Vernago wasn’t an accident or a natural marvel. It was manmade.
A dam was built to power a hydroelectric station downstream, and in doing so, the Schnalser Bach — a glacier-fed mountain stream — flooded the valley. What emerged was Lago di Vernago, now stretching across 100 hectares, roughly 140 soccer fields, and more than three times the size of Lago di Braies.
Eight farms and even a church built in 1727 vanished beneath the water. Their remnants still lie at the bottom. In spring, when the lake level drops, you can spot the tower of the submerged church poking through the turquoise. Like the sunken bell tower in Curon, it is a relic refusing to be forgotten. In 1997, the church was rebuilt on the eastern shore.
The story of the lake doesn’t end with a drowned village. It’s also part of a larger historical stage. Just up the valley is the site where Ötzi the Iceman — Europe’s oldest natural mummy — was discovered in 1991. He lay frozen for over 5,000 years in the Similaun Glacier near the Tisenjoch pass. Today, you can see his body and a fascinating exhibit dedicated to his discovery and life at the South Tyrol Archeological Museum in Bolzano.
How to Hike Around Lago di Vernago
Lago di Vernago offers several scenic routes to suit your pace and sense of wonder. Whether you’re in the mood for a leisurely lakeside stroll or something more demanding, there’s a trail that’ll make your boots sing with glee. Here are two circuit hikes to consider.
Lago di Vernago Lakeside Loop
The shortest and easiest circuit hike is a well-marked 4-mile ( 7 km) loop tracing the shoreline of the lake. It is mostly flat and takes about 2 hours to complete. Along the way, you’ll cross two dramatic pedestrian suspension bridges that sway just enough to make you feel alive. If you are lucky, you’ll also come across a flock of sheep blissfully grazing on the slopes just above the lake.
Lago di Vernago Panoramic Circuit
If you want to take in Lago di Vernago from the kind of soaring vantage an eagle would envy, opt for the more challenging 5.8-mile (9 km) circuit. This route skirts the lake’s southern shore before climbing the northern mountainside, rewarding you with sweeping panoramic views and a true sense of solitude. Enjoying this higher loop requires surefootedness in a few parts. Plan for 3+ hours.
The only crowds you will encounter have hooves and horns. Our quiet encounters with curious mountain goats, and our tranquil walk through one of the most serene forest stretches in all of South Tyrol made this outing one of the most peaceful and memorable hikes we’ve ever taken.
Along the way, you can stop for a hearty meal at either Finailhof or Tisenhof. Perched high above Lago di Vernago, these historic mountain farms are cultural touchstones in the clouds. We opted to enjoy a delicious meal at Finailhof. Its cozy atmosphere was way too inviting to ignore.
First mentioned in 1290, Finailhof is far more than just a pretty place to pause. It’s a living relic. Life here still hums to an old rhythm: animals are raised by hand, crops are grown the traditional way, and everything is done with heart. All of it unfolds at nearly 6,500 feet (nearly 2,000 meters) above sea level. The view and charm you soak in while dining will linger long after your last bite.
Legend tells that in 1416, this remote farm gave shelter to Duke Friedrich IV of Austria, who was fleeing political enemies during the Council of Constance. To avoid capture, the family disguised him as a humble shepherd, allowing him to hide safely in the mountains.
Today, the Gurschler family, now in their fourth generation, continues to uphold that age-old tradition of alpine hospitality. Their commitment to sustainable farming and heartfelt service is evident in every detail, from the kitchen to the barn to the smile that greets you at the door.
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Hiking Directions
The Lago di Vernago lakeside loop doesn’t require a map or much thought. The Seerundweg / Giro del Lago trail is well-signposted, and let’s be honest — walking around a lake is about as straightforward as it gets.
To embark on the panoramic hike, from the parking lot by the church you will follow the Seerundweg / Giro del Lago toward the dam near the southern shore. From there, you will follow the lake shore until you reach the western end of the lake, where you will connect with trail no. 8 leading up slope towards Finailhof.
After Finailhof, continue toward Tisenhof by taking trail no. 7. When you are finished with a stop at Tisenhof, take the A1/A2 archaeological Trail back to Vernagt. The total elevation gain on this route is 1,325 feet (404 m).
Good to Know: If you’d prefer to visit Finailhof and Tisenhof without hiking the full panoramic circuit, both farms can also be reached by car.
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The Best Time to Visit Lago di Verngao
Lago di Vernago is undoubtedly a marvel in every season, but if you want to experience it at its most breathtaking — when the water is full and the lake radiates an otherworldly blue — plan your visit for summer or early fall. During these months, the reservoir reaches its peak levels, and the lake appears as if it was chiseled between mountains by the hand of God.
In spring, however, the water is intentionally lowered for dam maintenance. While this changes the lake’s appearance dramatically, it offers a rare and haunting glimpse into the past: the remnants of the church tower peeking ghost-like above the surface. While we have not witnessed this sight ourselves, it has to be nothing short of surreal.
Good to Know: While visiting Lago di Vernago, be sure to make time for Iceman Ötzi Peak —arguably the most storied summit in the Alps. From this awe-inspiring vantage point, you can peer out over the rugged expanse where Ötzi was discovered, frozen in time for more than 5,000 years. The cable car to the summit is located in Maso Corto, which is just a 10-minute drive from Vernagt.
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Where to Stay by Lago di Vernago
Lago di Vernago makes for an easy day trip from Merano, but few things compare to waking up with a view of the lake and sipping your morning coffee as mist rolls across its surface. The village of Vernagt offers a small but charming selection of hotels and guesthouses to consider:
- Finailhof – The same wonderful farm we highlighted above
- Unterpretrachhof
- Chalets Lagaun
- Hotel & Chalets Edelweiss
We chose to stay at Unterpretrachhof, a historic alpine farmstead set right along the lakeshore. It’s as rustic and authentic as they come. Think creaky wooden floors, moo-happy cows, stone walls, and a pace of life that hasn’t changed much in decades.
Each morning began with a classic Tyrolean breakfast that was simple, fresh, and satisfying, and each evening we watched from our window as a local farmer gently guided his flock of sheep down from the mountain pastures and into the barn for the night.
The property is run by the Tumler family, and the grandmother was as warm as a wool blanket on a winter morning. It was a treat to be welcomed by her smile each morning — a small, daily reminder that you were in good hands.
Eventually, the sky burned itself out behind the peaks, and we raised a quiet toast to the grizzled stranger who sent us here. Was he a guide, a ghost or just a friendly soul sharing travel secrets? Whoever he was, his next beer is on us.
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