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Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Val di Funes

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

Val di Funes in the DolomitesDeep in the heart of South Tyrol lies a secluded valley where you’ll find yourself seemingly lost in the pages of a fairy tale.

Throne & Vine IconIf J.R.R. Tolkien were to drop you a postcard from Middle Earth there’s a good chance it would come from Val di Funes. This breathtaking land in the Dolomites may very well be nature’s greatest masterpiece — a perfect storm of beauty and brawn.

Once you have stared longingly into a picture of the valley with the St. Magdalena (Santa Maddalena) Church amid piercing green hills and the mighty Odle (Geisler) peaks tearing into the southern sky, the sight seals your wanderlust fate. Seeing this mountainous paradise firsthand becomes an obsession.

In this post, we give you the step-by-step guide to visiting the top sights in Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss). You’ll discover how to experience the best views and hike from one attraction to the next while taking in all the Alpine enchantment this blessed valley offers.

JUMP TO ARTICLE CONTENT
  • Where is Val di Funes
  • What to See in Val di Funes
  • How to Reach Val di Funes
  • Additional Tips & Considerations for Visiting Val di Funes

Where is Val di Funes

Val di Funes Wayside ShrineTucked between Val Gardena to the south and Val Pusteria to the north, just 45 minutes from Bolzano, you’ll find Val di Funes. Home to people as far back as prehistoric times, the valley captivates at every turn.

From unspoiled forests and fields to rolling pastures stewarded by lone farmsteads and roving livestock, idyllic scenery echoes eternally from one mountainside to the next.

Map of Val di Funes
Val di Funes is just 45 minutes from Bolzano to the southwest and 30 minutes from Brixen to the north.

Val di Funes carves roughly 15 miles through velvet evergreen slopes until abruptly meeting the jaw-dropping thunder of the Dolomites. When you first see the saw-tooth edge of the Odle peaks shredding the heavens, it is jarring.

The severe contrast against the tranquilness of the valley defines the very meaning of awe. Such brooding sights of nature’s might are a rare gift.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds)

What to See in Val di Funes

Val di Funes teems with attractions worth exploring, but the two most celebrated are the Church of St. Magdalena and the Church of St. Johann. These two storied holy sites are rather small, but leave a mountain-size impression on travelers.

Looking at the Odle Peaks
Awe-inspiring in every sense. The Odle peaks storm up nearly 10,000 feet into the heavens.

Like the north-facing Odle peaks, they are symbolic of Val di Funes. The much-loved scene of their steeples among the mountains may make them the most photographed churches in South Tyrol.

The itinerary we detail below will take 2-3 hours if covering it primarily by foot. If you do not want to walk that much, you can drive near to either church.

Both can be enjoyed in as little as an hour. However, we recommend planning on at least spending a morning or afternoon exploring the area.

The Church of St. Magdalena

The Church of St. Magdalena beams from a hill in a tiny village of the same name located on the far end of the valley. The church itself sits atop a grassy hill where it is said pagan rituals took place long ago.

The exact date the church was built is not known, but it was first mentioned in historical documents in 1394. According to legend, the church was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene after a mirage of her appeared in a nearby brook. As you may recall, she is one of the most beloved saints as she embodies the power of forgiveness and was the first to see Jesus resurrected.

The Church of St. Magdalena
A steeple that has stood through the ages. The Church of St. Magdalena has welcomed visitors since 1394.

The Geisler Peaks

Fresco of St. Magdalena Church

Inside, the church design and decor is classically baroque. Ornate gold and marble accents and remarkable paintings flourish from ceiling to floor. Above the altar is a painting of Mary Magdalene followed by a statue of her at the foot of the cross.

If you are planning a visit to South Tyrol in the fall consider attending Speckfest, which occurs the first weekend of October each year and is held just below the church. Discover more about this autumn culinary celebration by reading about our recent fun-filled afternoon at Speckfest.

St. Magdalena Church Interior
The Baroque interior of the Church of St. Magdalena displays precious works of religious art.

St. Magdalena Church ShrineTIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Seeing the Church of St. Magdalena up close is certainly a rewarding experience, but admiring it against the backdrop of the Dolomites is a sight you’ll never forget. Here’s how to capture the iconic panorama as seen in our feature image:

  • From the Via Geisler roadway into the village of St. Magdalena take a left at the blue sign directing you to the village center.  Straight ahead of you will be a public parking lot. We recommend parking here and hiking along the road to the panorama point and church. The road leading directly to the church is closed to automobiles.
  • Take left onto Bergweg and then a right on Trebich. Note: Street names may not be visible so be sure to follow the signs for the church (Kirche / Chiesa).
  • Follow Trebich to the left and then Magdalenaweg, which veers to the right. Stay on Magdalena as it winds gradually upward.
  • You’ll eventually see the church to your right. But instead of taking the right continue straight to reach a higher elevation.
  • You will then come to a farmstead on the road where you will take a right. Follow the road up to the second bend. Here, you will find a short trail called St. Magdalena Panoramaweg cutting across the slope offering the best views. 

After thoroughly drinking in the views, we suggest visiting the church. It is open daily.

The Church of St. Johann

Only 40 minutes away by foot from the Church of St. Magdalena is the picturesque Church of St. Johann. This little stone church with its famous onion-bulbed steeple is actually more akin to a chapel, but the sight of it is equally stunning. It is also often referred to as St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui or San Giovanni.

The Church of St. Johann came to grace a meadow at the foot of the Odle massif in 1744. A Baroque gem inside and out, the front facade showcases decorative pillars painted on the ends with a depiction of St. John of Nepomuk near the peak of the chapel.

Church of St. Johann in Val di Funes

Church of St. John in Ranui, South Tyrol

Front of St. Johann Church in Val di Funes
Since 1744, The Church of St. Johann has charmed travelers visiting Val di Funes.

The life of St. John of Nepomuk is not as well known as St. Mary Magdalene. Considered a martyr, St. John was sentenced to death by drowning in 1393 by King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia. He was gagged and thrown into the Vltava River from the Charles Bridge in Prague.

Within the chapel, a series of paintings on the sides of the altar tells the story of St. John. The altar itself is grandly ornate with bedazzling marble and gold in the classic Baroque style like the Church of St. Magdalena. Curiously, a painting shows St. John holding out his tongue. It is apparently meant to symbolize his defiance of the king, which ultimately led to his torture and murder.

Cow in Val di Funes
Grazing beneath the Dolomites. Cows lazily roam all around St. Johann.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Since the Church of St. Johann sits in the middle of a wide-open field, numerous points will wow you as you meander to its doorstep. Here’s how we recommend visiting the chapel to soak it all in:

  • From the Church of St. Magdalena walk the path located outside the cemetery downhill towards the village center. Along this path, you will come to one of the most epic wayside shrine scenes in South Tyrol.
  • The path eventually becomes Kircheweg. Sweeping views of various farmsteads along this route make it a walk to remember.
  • Follow Kircheweg all the way into the village and then take a left onto Bergweg. Before you cross onto Bergweg pause to enjoy the ripples of a small waterfall on your left.
  • Stay on Bergweg and keep to the right when you come to a fork. This will lead you to the Via Geisler roadway where you will walk along the side for roughly 10 minutes until reaching a trail crossing a pasture to The Church of St. Johann.
  • Before venturing to the church, you’ll come across a stand where you can purchase fresh jams, syrups and more from the nearby farm. We always recommend supporting these family-owned farms when you get the chance. There’s nothing better than the regional specialties direct from the farm.
  • The largest stony spire of the Odle massif rises up beyond the church. It is known as Sass Rigais. This peak taught mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner how to master the climb.

The Church of St. Johann is available to visitors, but it is not always open. You can request access by contacting the Ranuihof Manor located on the edge of the church’s meadow.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

How to Reach Val di Funes

Thanks to its relatively central location in South Tyrol, adding a trip to Val di Funes as a part of your itinerary is easy no matter where you base yourself.

If you are arriving by car, the valley can be directly accessed from the A22 Autostrade. The exit is just north of Chiusa (Klausen). Reaching St. Magdalena village on the far end of Val di Funes is a pleasant drive. It takes less than 20 minutes once you exit the main highway.

House in Val di Funes
What a view. The balconies in Val di Funes dazzle with brightly colored geraniums from end-to-end.

Those using public transportation while in South Tyrol can still easily embark on an adventure in the valley. A bus departs from Chiusa and Brixen multiple times each day. To explore public transportation options, visit the official Val di Funes website. 

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

Additional Tips & Considerations for Visiting Val di Funes

  • Consider taking a break between hikes by having lunch in St. Magdalena. A couple of establishments offering traditional South Tyrolean hospitality with views include Gasthof Fermeda and Waldschenke.
  • Visit the Puez-Odle Nature Park Visitor Center in the heart of St. Magdalena to discover other attractions and history of the area.
  • Make a trip to Val di Funes a full-day outing by trekking the Adolf Munkel trail. This 4+ hour hike will bring you up close to the Odle mountain group.
  • If you want to see Val di Funes alive with Alpine wildflowers the best time to visit is the summer season.
  • To enjoy the valley with the least number of tourists, we suggest visiting Val di Funes in May or October. Another option is to explore Val di Funes in the winter when it becomes a wonderland for snow lovers.
  • Like many mountain vistas, sunrise and sunset will give you the most spectacular photo opportunities.
  • Visit Val di Funes during Speckfest to partake in the annual celebration of South Tyrol’s traditional mountain-smoked ham.
  • Before arriving in St. Magdalena you’ll pass through the village of San Pietro in the heart of Val di Funes. Consider visiting another remarkable church known as the “Duomo della Valle” (Cathedral in the Valley). Its onion-bulbed steeple soars an impressive 200+ feet.

Have you been to Val di Funes? Let us know in the comments in the below if there are any additional tips or sights you would recommend.

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Val di Funes Travel Guide

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Filed Under: South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure Tagged With: Dolomites, South Tyrol Hikes, Val di Funes

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Yolanda says

    August 28, 2020 at 11:05 am

    Dear friends
    Thank you very much for the post: Awesome information, tips and pictures!!
    I was wondering if you would be so kind to tell me where the first picture, the one with the image of the virgin, was taken?
    Thank you very much!!!!

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      August 28, 2020 at 12:20 pm

      Hi Yolanda – Glad you found our post helpful! The shrine you speak of is located on a path that leads to the Speckfest grounds and St. Magdalena Church. I don’t recall the exact spot but you should pass right by it when walking this way to the church. Hope this helps: https://goo.gl/maps/dufBmz9dqCFT8FyZ9 Enjoy your visit!

      Reply
  2. Elaine Masters says

    July 30, 2019 at 2:02 pm

    I’ve wanted to hike the Dolomites ever since I first heard about them. Now I have a central place to begin and to immerse in the local culture as well as natural world. Thanks for the details and incredible pictures.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      August 1, 2019 at 9:20 am

      You’re welcome Elaine! YOu’ll also find our posts about hiking Seceda and Lake Braies useful as well.

      Reply
  3. vanessa workman says

    July 30, 2019 at 11:14 am

    I’m not a big hiker, but I think 2-3 hours would be a piece of cake with so much surrounding beauty to distract me. And old churches are fascinating. The Church of St. Johann is so charming, love the faux painting/mural-esque designs on the outside. Was that on the building originally or added later? Gorgeous photos btw!

    Reply
  4. vanessa workman says

    July 30, 2019 at 11:12 am

    I’m not a big hiker, but I think 2-3 hours would be a piece of cake with so much surrounding beauty to distract me. And old churches are fascinating. The Church of St. Johann is so charming, love the faux painting/mural-esque designs on the outside. Was that on the building originally or added later?

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      July 30, 2019 at 11:57 am

      Thanks for the comment Vanessa. The mural has always been a part of the church.

      Reply
  5. Kathleen says

    July 30, 2019 at 6:49 am

    What a beautiful place you have shared. I have never heard of Val di Funes. It’s just breathtaking. I’m sure even more so in person. The ceiling in Church of St. Magdalena is very interesting. I bet that took a long time to paint. The Church of St. Johann seems more intimate to me. I really love the outside of it, especially against such a beautiful backdrop.

    Reply
  6. Punita Malhotra says

    July 30, 2019 at 4:37 am

    All the pictures are fabulous. There is a merit in exploring a destination with dramatic clouds like that! The beauty of Val di Funes has been enhanced against the backdrop of those skies.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      August 1, 2019 at 9:21 am

      Thank you Punita!

      Reply
  7. Holly says

    July 29, 2019 at 5:45 pm

    I keep hearing about this place. Your photos are breathtaking! I would love to see all of this in person. Not sure if I would want to do a 4 plus hour hike though. A break with some good food is persuading to do so though.

    Reply
  8. sherianne says

    July 29, 2019 at 8:26 am

    I’m not a big trekking kind of person but could easily be convinced to stop being lazy for these views! The Church of St. Johann is picture perfect; Val di Funes also looks adorable.

    Reply
  9. Rosemary says

    July 29, 2019 at 3:58 am

    Such stunning views and what a gorgeous place to hike. I have never made it to the Dolomites and it continues to rank high as a destination to visit. Your incredible photos with the dark skies are quite striking. I’m quite intrigued by the Church of St. Johann, I’d love to check it out. I hope to make it to the region soon and will certainly be referring to your post!

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      July 29, 2019 at 10:29 am

      Thanks Rosemary for the comment! Hope you can see Val di Funes when you return to South Tyrol. Nothing quite like it!

      Reply
  10. Medha says

    July 28, 2019 at 11:08 pm

    I always regretted not making it to the Dolomites when I travelled to Italy a few years ago but I had very little time on that trip and managed to cover only the usual places – Rome, Venice, Florence & Capri. That is why I have now planned another trip that will include all the places I couldn’t make it to and Val di Funes undoubtedly is on the top of that list. The over picture you’ve used sells the place incredibly and the churches you’ve mentioned are gorgeous. Thanks for the detailed tips of how to make it to Val di Funes, I am bookmarking this post for future reference.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      July 29, 2019 at 10:31 am

      Glad you found this piece helpful. Hope you can finally make it to his side of Italy one day. If you have any questions when you begin planning, just let us know!

      Reply
  11. Debra Schroeder says

    July 28, 2019 at 8:07 pm

    ROFL, loved the Tolkien reference.Your pictures are gorgeous. You have a great eye for detail and know how to frame your images. Such a thorough guide, the Dolomites are on our list, hope to make it there one day and your guide will come in handy.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      July 29, 2019 at 10:30 am

      Thank you Debra! Please let us know if you do visit!

      Reply
  12. Paul RYKEN says

    July 28, 2019 at 9:54 am

    Love your writing style….was waiting for you to describe Frodo Baggins in detail as he strolled across the green valley floor anticipating his next meal or adventure.

    The use of your photos in the article also captivated me as I read the story and then the tips. And wow, those tips are awesome – actionable tips and practical advice to get the very best out of the hike.

    Can you please advise if there are any potable streams along the way to fill up water bottles? How hot does it get at the height of summer?

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      July 29, 2019 at 10:49 am

      Thanks Paul. Appreciate the compliment! It can reach above 80°F (28°C) in the summer. As far as water goes, we do not recommend drinking the water out of the streams due to the Alpine farms throughout the area. Several mountains huts allow you to stop and fill up your bottle or sit down to have a meal and drink to take a break from hiking. Please let us know if you have any other questions.

      Reply
  13. Linda (LD Holland) says

    July 28, 2019 at 1:13 am

    What a beautiful spot to visit. The Dolomites have been on our list. But Val di Funes is another stunning reason to visit. Your description of your visit brought it all into clear detail. The blue sky pics are beautiful. But there is something eerie about visiting the Church of St Magdalena with the moody skies all around. Good tip to find a viewpoint to see if from far away after seeing the inside. I do love the colourful Church of St Johann too. Thanks for the amazing tease.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      July 29, 2019 at 10:34 am

      You’re welcome Linda! St. Magdalena may have an eerie aura about it since it was the site of pagan sacrifices thousands of years ago. But can assure you its beauty far outweighs the moodiness of the scene!

      Reply
  14. Aditi Sharma says

    July 27, 2019 at 9:36 pm

    We love incorporating hiking into our treks and trekking in the Dolomites is on the top of our bucket list. Your post with its in-depth details of top sights in Val di Funes and how to get the best views is definitely going to help us plan our adventure in this region. The stunning Church of St. Magdalena and the sublime views of the region are sure to leave one spellbound. I did not know about Speckfest – thanks for introducing me to this interesting festival – would be quite an experience to be able to attend this culinary celebration. Looks like autumn (with the Speckfest) and summer (with its blooming meadows) are both amazing times to visit the region. Will definitely be referring to this post in future.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      July 29, 2019 at 10:36 am

      Glad you found the post so helpful. If you can time your visit during Speckfest, it will make your trip to Val di Funes even more endearing.

      Reply

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