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Forest of the Fallen – Brunico’s Moving Tribute to the Soldiers of World War I

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

Cimitero di Guerra

icon“I am young, I am twenty years old; yet I know nothing of life but despair, death, fear, and fatuous superficiality cast over an abyss of sorrow. I see how peoples are set against one another, and in silence, unknowingly, foolishly, obediently, innocently slay one another.” 

WORDS, ONCE ONLY APPARITIONS in our minds, were now suddenly flesh and blood. Each step we took summoned another line from Erich Maria Remarque’s “All Quiet on the Western Front”. Each turn, another face haunting in the forest.

But we were in much more than a forest.

All around us stood grave markers.

Not of stone, but of timber.

Wooden crosses fashioned in pacifying poses silently spoke to us. Bronze plates with forgings of “1915”, “1916”, “1917” and “1918” conjured images of war. German names along with tattered photographs whispered stories into our minds. Wishes and dreams of young men longing to be told, but never to be heard.

Bruneck War Cemetery

Wooden Grave Marker in Brunico

World War I Cemetery in Brunico, Italy

Wooden grave marker in Kriegerfriedhof

What is this place of somber beauty we wondered? Minutes earlier we were gazing up in awe at the medieval markings of a 13th-century castle. And then on a whim decided to cross a nearby footbridge to a hill shrouded in pine and firs. Here, we trekked up a steep set of stairs. At the top, a forested slope unfolded before us revealing a cemetery unlike any we have ever seen.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness.

A grey monument resting on the hill’s crest held the answer. Inscribed on sable panes were the names of those buried.  Next to this list of the fallen, we found the story of the ‘Soldier Cemetery’.

War on the Rooftop of the World

Soldiers climbing the Dolomites during World War I
Soldiers scaling a cliff in the Dolomites during WWI. (Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institution)

Fighting a war anywhere is hell. Fighting one in the unforgiving heights of the Dolomites is utterly unthinkable. Yet, during the First World War, its crags and crevices saw thousands of soldiers lost to the madness of mankind and more still to the fury only born on mountains. The warring conditions on the rooftop of the world were among the most treacherous ever endured in the history of warfare. If bullets or shell-fire didn’t tear you asunder, the mountain’s pummeling snow, hellish winds and crashing boulders would.

Brunico (also known as Bruneck) in South Tyrol was home to several wartime hospitals. Those injured battling on the front lines of the Dolomites received care here. Many did not make it out alive. Too many. When the local cemetery could no longer support the dead, a new one was founded on this hill in Brunico known as Kühbergl.

An Austrian Lieutenant Colonel, A. Bechtold, developed the vision for the Soldier Cemetery. For the men who suffered horrors on the summits, he sought to bring them final peace within the mossy velvet of the forest floor.

The cemetery was built by Russian prisoners of war. Logs from stands of pine became the grave markers — forever memorializing the fallen in harmony with the stillness of the forest.

Resting in Quiet Rapture

One-hundred years ago this past year, the last shot of the First World War rang out. At 11 am on the eleventh day in the eleventh month of 1918, Germany signed an armistice bringing the war to an end. Upon receiving the news, soldiers simply laid down their arms and went home.

The toll? 37 million dead.

669 lie in the Soldier Cemetery. They are soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian empire, as well as Russia, Serbia and Romania. Just 20 years later, the world would spiral into another war taking the lives of 50 million more. Nineteen German soldiers killed in bombing raids from the Second World War are also at rest in the cemetery.

A soldier's portrait in Brunico

Soldier's portrait on a wooden cross

In a solemn act of respect for the men, the cemetery dedicated sections to the respective faiths of the soldiers. Men of Christian, Jewish and Muslim faith lay separate but together. These brothers fighting for pieces of the earth now share it in quiet rapture as their home.

Caretakers of the Deep Wood Light

As we continued walking through the cemetery, we came across a few women tending to the graves. We learned they are members of an association of women that has kept each grave in pristine form since 1921.

Watching them work was as moving as the cemetery itself. In silence, they carefully placed evergreen branches and other favors from the forest throughout the resting places. These beautiful deep wood adornments evoked an even more serene feeling to our timbered surroundings.

Soldier Cemetery Caretaker in Bruneck
Since 1921, an association of women has given their time to maintain and beautify the cemetery.

Soldier Cemetery in the Forest near Brunico

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness. Whether encountering a meticulously carved wayside shrine off a hiking trail or rows of crosses masterfully wrought out of iron in quaint, candlelit Alpine churchyards, the traditions of this land inspire awe. Taking time to reflect in such moments requires no belief in the divine to enjoy the beauty of humanity.

How to Visit the Soldier Cemetery of Brunico

A visit to the medieval town of Brunico is an easy trip add-on before or after a trek around Lago di Braies. While in Brunico, a walk through the Soldier Cemetery is a must. Every lover of nature and history will find it an enchanting sight.

The town offers you a few ways to reach the cemetery. From the grounds of the Bruneck Castle walk to the south castle wall and continue down a small slope to a footbridge. Cross over the road (Via Riscone) to the Kühbergl hill. Then follow the path to the right for a bit until you come to a set of stairs leading uphill. The cemetery sits at the top of the steps.

A footbridge near Bruneck Castle
Near Bruneck Castle lies a footbridge that leads you to the Soldier Cemetery.

Additional options to visiting the cemetery include two parking lots directly off Via Riscone. If you choose either one, you’ll have to walk uphill even more, but neither path is difficult.

No matter how you choose to visit, keep an eye out for signposts indicating ‘Cimitero di Guerra’ and ‘Kriegerfriedhof’ to ensure you’re heading the right direction.

Capturing the Soldier Cemetery with your camera is a heartrending experience no matter when you visit, but please be courteous to anyone there paying respect to those lost.

Traverse Creator Awards Best StorytellerWe are honored this post was recognized by Traverse Creator Awards with a “Best Storytelling Award”. The ability to discover the amazing history of South Tyrol while exploring all of its natural splendor is a gift we do not take for granted. Our hope is to inspire all who visit to take the time to get to know the history of the land and its people.

Wartime Cemetery in Brunico

Thank you for reading. 😘 Share the South Tyrolean Goodness!
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Filed Under: South Tyrol Trip Tips Tagged With: Bruneck, Brunico, Dolomites, South Tyrol Historic Sights

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Helen Costello says

    November 14, 2018 at 5:30 am

    37 million! That is a number just too awful to contemplate. The cemetery is chillingly beautiful.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      November 14, 2018 at 7:36 am

      Yeah Helen it’s heart wrenching. And to think that just 20 years later another 50 million more were lost in WWII. Unbelievable.

      Reply
  2. Catherine says

    November 12, 2018 at 11:23 am

    How incredible…your post is a beautiful tribute!

    Reply
  3. twinspirational says

    November 12, 2018 at 7:30 am

    What a beautiful piece. Such a good read on Veterans Days day.

    Reply
  4. ChelseaMamma says

    November 12, 2018 at 2:18 am

    This sounds like such a thought provoking place to visit. My husband is fascinated by these events and would love to explore something like this

    Reply
  5. Shar says

    November 11, 2018 at 8:44 am

    Such a beautiful location! I’m sure it was extremely emotional for you. Thank you for sharing your experience

    Reply
  6. Autumn - Simply Amazing Living says

    November 11, 2018 at 7:09 am

    What a hauntingly beautiful memorial for fallen soldiers. This brings me to tears on a day to honor so many of them.

    Reply
  7. Preet says

    November 11, 2018 at 4:06 am

    Wow this place looks incredible. There’s so much to do and see there! Looks like a brilliant place to take the whole family

    Reply
  8. Reese says

    November 10, 2018 at 10:48 pm

    It’s very sombering to look back over histories of any war, but especially World Wars. So many lives lost and so many innocent soldiers sent out as pawns in bigger power struggles. But they are still a part of our histories as mankind and deserve to be remembered.

    Reply
  9. kumamonjeng says

    November 10, 2018 at 7:15 pm

    Wow, this is such a unique place for cemetery. Recently I have been to a cemetery for European soldiers (majority are British) who fought during the first and second world war in Myanmar (Asia)! This one here are incredible as they are made of timber. Glad that there are women who work so hard to keep the garden a nice and serene place for the dead and the visitors.

    Reply
  10. Sheri says

    November 10, 2018 at 1:02 pm

    I have never heard of this place. I can imagine it is very emotional and moving to visit it. I might go, I live in Vienna, so not far at all.

    Reply
  11. Janine Ella says

    November 10, 2018 at 9:07 am

    The soldier cemetery sounds interesting as I haven’t seen or been to one. How I wish this place was just near so I can experience what you experienced too.

    Reply
  12. Catherine Santiago Jose says

    November 10, 2018 at 7:41 am

    This must be a very emotional place to visit. I am looking forward to explore this place to know everything about it.

    Reply
  13. Cristine says

    November 10, 2018 at 7:14 am

    What a haunting memorial – maybe if more people understood the sacrifices of war they would be more cautious about their tone & words that they use. Life is precious

    Reply
  14. Lyosha Varezhkina (@lyoshathegirl) says

    November 10, 2018 at 3:36 am

    I never knew such place existed! It looks absolutely beautiful and so peaceful. I am sending this link to my friend, she loves such places, I am sure she would LOVE to travel there

    Reply
  15. Danielle says

    November 10, 2018 at 2:16 am

    Such a powerful and emotional tribute. I would love to visit.

    Reply
  16. lexis says

    November 9, 2018 at 8:35 pm

    Wow that looks so beautiful, I can’t begin to imagine the emotions you experienced visiting!

    Reply
  17. incalexandra says

    November 9, 2018 at 5:54 pm

    Your photos are so beautiful. This must have been a wonderful and emotional experience.

    Reply
  18. Christine Weis says

    November 9, 2018 at 3:12 pm

    WOW…this is really interesting! This is something I never knew about but would love to know more about. Thank you for enlightening me!

    Reply
  19. Stacie says

    November 9, 2018 at 11:57 am

    I would love to see that in person one day. It is so visually interesting, and I think it’s a really powerful tribute as well.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      November 9, 2018 at 2:41 pm

      It was definitely a moving experience. Hope you get to walk through it when you visit South Tyrol.

      Reply

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