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Enchantment Set in Stone – Brunnenburg Castle

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

Brunnenburg CastleiconHow do you defend a castle? If you are a Tyrolean, you build another beneath it. For almost 800 years, Brunnenburg Castle (also known as Castel Fontana) has stood like a stone shield to the most prominent castle in northern Italy — Castle Tirol.

In 1250, the Counts of Tyrol commissioned the fortress as a defensive outpost. It was erected on a glacial crag downslope from Castle Tirol providing watchmen a focused eye deep into the valley openings of Merano and Vinschgau.

Despite Brunnenburg’s position below Castle Tirol, both in royal command and mountain clinging elevation, this warden of the north is not any less impressive. Its ivy-mantled tower bears stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing. 

The castle isolated on its own is enough to strike fear into an invading army. But seeing it paired with the mother of all castles looming above must have been a sight that sent road-weary raiders racing back to their homelands. Sacking one castle is hard enough. Two? Forget about it.

Sanctuary for a Troubled Poet

Brunnenburg Castle standing guard over the village of LagundoToday, instead of inspiring fear, Brunnenburg is more likely to inspire a poem. And in fact, it has. The castle was once home to the literary heavyweight, Erza Pound. After his release from a mental institution in 1958, Pound joined his daughter and grandchildren at Brunnenburg.

Brunnenburg's ivy-mantled towers bear stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.
Erza Pound Portrait
Erza Pound, master of poetic prose. A comb? Not so much.

He spent his time tending to the castle grounds and gardens while continuing to pen prose for The Cantos — an epic poem that is comprised of 116 sections known as a “canto”. Given its length and often abstract musicality, The Cantos is viewed by many as a chaotic piece of work. Perhaps the genius of a fragmented mind that like the vines scaling Brunnenburg can only be adored in their entirety. 

Pound’s daughter purchased the castle with her spouse 10 years prior to his arrival. Together, they saved Brunnenburg from a second bout of ruin. The first occurring hundreds of years earlier and lasting until 1903 when a wealthy German named Karl Schwickert bought the castle.

Schwickert thoroughly renovated Brunnenburg fashioning the castle into a more romantic form that woos visitors to this day. Yet for all its trappings of fancy, the castle could not escape tragedy. Schwickert’s wife suspiciously fell to her death from one of the balconies in 1904. He remained in the castle until his death in 1925.

Brunnenburg Folk Art
Brunnenburg Castle displays an assortment of fascinating historical artifacts and folk art from South Tyrol.

As Brunnenburg sat empty for more than 20 years, tales of hauntings arose as they tend to in soulless dwellings. Whether Pound ever encountered a ghost is not known. But by the reading of some of his poetry, one could say his mind was never far from hauntings of its own.

⇒ READ MORE: Castle Tirol – Ancient Majesty Chiseled from a Mountain

A Throne Amid the Vines

Brunnenburg Castle Vines
If only these age-old vines could tell tales.

Fortunately, you do not have to possess a mind wired for poetry or a heart pumping royal blood to stroll through the halls and terraces of Brunnenburg. Visiting the castle is a pleasant walk downhill from the village of Dorf Tirol along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path).

By the way, this is the same path you take to visit Castle Tirol.  Several points along the journey give you sweeping views of both castles with the snow-kissed peaks of the Texel mountain group photobombing it all in the background.

Brunnenburg is most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn's paintbrush is most alive with vibrant color.

As you walk the path, you’ll notice a deep ravine dividing the two castles. Don’t worry. You don’t need to latch to a zip line to visit both. Look for a signpost directing to a path off-shooting to Brunnenburg. This winding treasure descends through terraced vineyards, orchards and patches of old growth forest. Be careful as you walk here. The fairytale scenery may just have you whistling an ode to a fair maiden or prince.

Brunnenburg Castle View in Autumn

Another more adventurous way to reach the castle is by hiking up the mountainside from the Algunder Waalweg or Tappeiner Promenade. Despite being quite a bit more grueling, these two paths are our favorite way to reach Brunnenburg. When the castle’s crenelated walls appear seemingly out of nowhere above a steep vineyard, it is a sight that wins your heart as much as the seductive juice from the vines running up to its gate.

Reaching Brunnenburg by trekking the Tappeiner Promenade from the heart of Merano will make the most enchanting walk in Italy even more enthralling.

To visit the castle from either path, you will eventually depart the trails and walk on a road called Gnaidweg or Via Gnaid. This road will lead you to a rugged path known as Brunnenburgsteig. It leads you up through a forest along an irrigation channel flanked by a vineyard on your left and an orchard on your right. The passage through the forest is rather steep, but not dangerous.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

When to Visit Brunnenburg Castle

We have admired Brunnenburg Castle in spring, autumn and winter. Each season imparts its own beauty to the castle.

But we have found it the most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn’s paintbrush is most alive. Hiking along the Brunnenburgsteig then is like opening gift basket of aromas.

The Castles of Tirol
A brotherhood of strongholds, Castle Tirol and Brunnenburg Castle loom under the autumn sun.
Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol
Nothing else quite like Brunnenburg in autumn. The castle vines decorate the walls in the magnificent color of the season.

Beyond visiting the castle for a dose of medieval whimsy, it can also whisk you on a cultural odyssey. Brunnenburg is home to the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum and Erza Pound Memorial Center. The museum displays age-old equipment that speaks to the traditional methods of South Tyrolean winemakers and farmers once used to cultivate a season’s harvest.

In addition to the museum, you can appreciate a collection of historical folk art and a variety of domesticated farm animals trotting outside the castle including goats, sheep, pigs, chickens and geese. Grazing in such a heavenly place makes being a farm animal in South Tyrol look rather posh.

Brunnenburg Castle Barn

Saltner of South Tyrol
While visiting the castle, take time to walk through the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum. You can stand toe-to-toe with a “saltner”. While wearing wild-looking garb, his job was once to protect vineyards from birds and thieves.

Brunnenburg Castle is open for visitors from early April through October. Doors open at 10:00 am and close at 5 pm from Sunday-Thursday.

For those driving in South Tyrol, we recommend parking in the center of Dorf Tirol and walking to the castle from the village.

If you visit Brunnenburg and walk away with a poem, be sure to add it in the comments below. You may find yourself being a poet without ever knowing it.

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Visiting Brunnenburg Castle in South Tyrol

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Filed Under: South Tyrol Castles & Fortresses Tagged With: Brunnenburg Castle, South Tyrol Historic Sights

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Andrei Salokhin says

    June 5, 2019 at 4:41 am

    Super shots. Background of green hills is amazing. Love it!

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      June 5, 2019 at 9:47 am

      Thank you Andrei!

      Reply
  2. Katie says

    June 5, 2019 at 3:21 am

    It’s so picturesque with such an interesting history too! I’d love to visit in Autumn to see the grapes on those vines.

    Reply
  3. Nitin Singhal says

    June 5, 2019 at 2:35 am

    I love forts or castles. I love their sheer size, architecture and tone of history associated with them. I have seen some forts myself but never I saw any at such a level above the ground. Background of green hills is beautiful. sSaltner in Agricultural museums looks really spooky.

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      June 5, 2019 at 9:51 am

      The history of the Saltners is fascinating. Would love to see an actual one in the vineyards, but unfortunately, it’s a custom from ages past.

      Reply
  4. Lisa says

    June 2, 2019 at 1:32 pm

    What a stunning castle to visit in South Tyrol! Even though we’re regularly in the Dolomites each winter, I’d love to visit as you suggest, during October. I bet autumn is a beautiful time of year to see the colours of the region and the castle. Also, that photo and caption of Ezra Pound is brilliant!

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      June 2, 2019 at 8:24 pm

      Thank you Lisa! Plan to visit in the fall sometime. You will love it!

      Reply
  5. Linda (LD Holland) says

    June 2, 2019 at 12:38 pm

    I love to visit castles. So I am sure I would want to visit Brunnenburg Castle. It looks straight from a fairy tale. I can see why it might inspire a poet. The views alone might make me wax poetic. You shot of the castle from a distance in autumn is simply stunning!

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      June 2, 2019 at 8:25 pm

      Thank you Linda!

      Reply
  6. Sarah Wilson says

    June 2, 2019 at 9:37 am

    I’ve never heard of Brunnenberg Castle before but it looks amazing and so does the surrounding scenery. Love the history about Erza Pound, always fascinated to know about people’s stories. Definitely adding this to my bucket list.

    Reply
  7. Val says

    June 2, 2019 at 9:26 am

    Fascinating history and facts , so interesting! I have been to Italy over 30 times so far but I havent been to Brunnenburg castle or even close to the area yet. Your photos are as fantastic as your writing, well done!

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      June 2, 2019 at 8:27 pm

      Thank you so much Val! 30 times to Italy!? Wow, that is awesome! Hope you get a chance to visit “Italy of the North” on your next trip!

      Reply
  8. Medha says

    May 16, 2019 at 7:17 am

    The creeping vines only add to the charm of the castle, which is gorgeous by the way. It is not uncommon for such places to be associated with tragedy and therefore, stories of ghosts and haunting. I can see why it could be a poet’s sanctuary, and how it would have inspired Pound to write his prose. Such a lovely piece of architecture!

    Reply
    • Kate & Vin says

      May 20, 2019 at 2:16 pm

      Thank you for the comment Medha. Hope you get to experience Brunnenburg Castle with your own eyes one day!

      Reply

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