Visiting South Tyrol and the Dolomites in autumn? Make room for Törggelen. This centuries-old harvest tradition pairs hikes through golden vineyards and chestnut groves with new wine, hearty farmhouse cooking, and the kind of hospitality that turns strangers into tablemates. Our firsthand guide reveals what makes this tradition special, where to experience it, and how to plan your own unforgettable evening.
In a land with as many deep-rooted traditions as soaring mountain peaks, it’s no wonder the festive souls of South Tyrol have given one of their most beloved autumn customs a season all its own. Known as South Tyrol’s fifth season, Törggelen is a centuries-old harvest tradition rooted in the region’s winemaking culture, when farmers and neighbors gathered to sample the year’s new wine, celebrate the end of the grape harvest, and share the season’s bounty.
Today, the custom typically begins with a hike through golden vineyards and chestnut groves, followed by a hearty evening feast of farmhouse specialties, roasted chestnuts, and generous pours of wine. At its heart, Törggelen remains a celebration of the harvest, good company, and the simple pleasure of gathering around a table.
Throughout Valle Isarco (Eisacktal), where the tradition first took root, and other chestnut-growing corners of South Tyrol, rustic farmhouse wine taverns known as Buschenschänke and Törggelekeller welcome guests for the season. The festivities often unfold in a Stube, an historic farmhouse parlor wrapped in rich-toned wood and adorned with family portraits, Tyrolean folk art, and often a crucifix. These centuries-old gathering places invite you to linger over another glass of wine, another story, and perhaps even a spirited folk song or two.
We fell in love with Törggelen after our first experience. Not just for the hearty food and delicious wine, but for the farmers who pulled up a chair to share stories, the strangers who became friends, and the songs that seemed to start once the glasses were refilled. But before we take you inside some of our favorite Törggelen experiences, it pays to know a bit about how this beloved tradition began.
When Is Törggelen & How Did It Begin?
Törggelen season traditionally begins in early October and runs through mid-November, although some farmhouse taverns start celebrating in late September or continue into late November. According to local lore, these are the weeks when the Wein-Nörggelen, a mischievous band of dwarves, descend from the mountains to steal the wine of the harvest.
Exactly how Törggelen began is less certain. And how it all started depends on who’s pouring.
One account traces the tradition to winemakers inviting neighbors and relatives into their cellars to sample the new vintage. Another suggests it began as a gesture of gratitude, when winegrowers thanked mountain farmers for allowing their livestock to graze on high Alpine pastures during summer.
A third explanation credits wine merchants who traveled south across the Brenner Pass each autumn to inspect and purchase the new vintage. As these visits became more social, farmers began serving their guests homemade specialties alongside the wine. What started as business had all the makings of a celebration.
While historians may disagree on who hosted the first Törggelen gathering, the origin of its name is far less mysterious.
The word Törggelen comes from the “Torggl,” the massive wooden wine press once found in South Tyrol’s farmhouse cellars. Its roots trace back to the Latin “torquere,” meaning to twist or turn. And despite what your legs might tell you after a long evening, the name has nothing to do with “torkeln,” the German word for staggering.
The Wine that Started in All
The old Torggl gave the tradition its name, but what flowed from that press gave farmers and neighbors a reason to celebrate.
Now, this is not the kind of wine found on the shelf of your local wine shop.
In the weeks following the grape harvest, two distinct drinks mark the transformation of freshly pressed grapes into young wine: Suser and Nuier.
The first is “Suser” (also spelled “Sußer” or “Sauser”), a sweet, cloudy grape must in the earliest stages of fermentation. Bursting with the flavor of freshly crushed grapes, it typically contains no more than 1% alcohol. But don’t let its innocent sweetness fool you. As fermentation progresses, so does its potency.
Given more time in the cellar, Suser gives way to Nuier, the new wine. Less sweet and considerably stronger, Nuier has developed a more recognizable wine character, often reaching 7% alcohol or more. South Tyrol’s red Vernatsch (Schiava) grapes have traditionally been used to produce these young wines, although varieties differ among farms.
Depending on when you visit, you may be offered either one. And while Suser goes down almost suspiciously easily, Nuier is a reminder that the harvest has already worked some considerable magic.
From Wine Tasting to Farmhouse Feast
In the earliest days, the wine was the main attraction. Visitors sometimes brought their own food, but before long, farmers began sharing the autumn specialties coming out of their kitchens.
Fire-roasted chestnuts, known locally as “Keschtn,” were a natural choice. For generations, these nutritious nuts had helped sustain South Tyrol’s rural population, earning them a reputation as the “bread of the poor.” Even the chestnut trees themselves played an important role in winemaking, providing durable wood for supporting grapevines.
As the gatherings grew, so did the menu. Barley soup, speck, knödel dumplings, sausages, and the mighty “Schlachtplatte,” a generous platter of pork specialties served with sauerkraut, became fixtures of the Törggelen table. Sweet Krapfen pastries eventually joined the feast, while music, dancing, and folk songs kept the celebration going well into the evening.
Today, the tradition remains much the same, although farmhouse taverns now welcome visitors from far beyond their circle of neighbors and friends. The new wine is poured, the chestnuts are roasted, and the farmers continue sharing the food and stories that have made Törggelen a treasured South Tyrolean custom for generations.
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Book a Törggelen Experience
Reading about Törggelen is one thing. Pulling up a chair in a farmhouse Stube is another. Join Franz Lageder, a certified South Tyrolean Gourmet Ambassador, for a fun-filled evening that begins with speck and regional cheeses and unfolds into a traditional harvest feast. Expect hearty farmhouse dishes, local wine, roasted chestnuts and sweet pastries, with Franz sharing the traditions behind the meal. He handles pickup and the drive home, too.
Learn MoreWhat’s on the Törggelen Table?
If you think Törggelen is simply an excuse to snack on roasted chestnuts and sip a little wine, think again. A traditional Törggelen feast is a multi-course affair that can test the limits of even the heartiest appetite.
The festivities often begin with a wooden board piled high with South Tyrolean speck, farmhouse cheeses, and Kaminwurzen, the region’s smoky, air-dried sausages. Thick slices of rustic farmer’s bread accompany these savory bites, along with the first glasses of wine.
Next come the comforting classics of South Tyrolean farmhouse cooking. Steaming bowls of Gerstsuppe (barley soup), delicate Schlutzkrapfen (half-moon pasta pockets filled with spinach and cheese), and hearty Knödel (bread dumplings) may arrive in succession. The latter are often served as “tris,” a trio of dumplings made with speck, cheese, and spinach.
Then comes the main act: the mighty Schlachtplatte. This mountain of meat typically features an assortment of sausages, pork ribs, cured or smoked pork, and other farmhouse specialties resting on a generous bed of sauerkraut. Potatoes frequently round out the platter.
By now, any sensible person would call it an evening. But Törggelen has little regard for sensible appetites.
Dessert brings sweet Krapfen, traditional fried pastries filled with jam, poppy seeds, or chestnuts. And, of course, there’s the season’s signature treat: Keschtn, freshly roasted chestnuts, often served warm from the fire.
Menus vary from farm to farm, reflecting family recipes and what’s available from the autumn harvest. Some serve additional specialties such as Tirtlen, savory fried pastries filled with spinach, curd cheese, or sauerkraut.
Throughout the feast, the year’s young wine keeps flowing, conversations grow livelier, and the hours have a habit of slipping away.
There’s an old saying about eating Krapfen that sums up the Törggelen spirit rather nicely: one in your mouth, one in your hand, and your eye on the third.
As we discovered during our own Törggelen adventures, it’s advice best taken seriously.
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Three Historic Farmhouses, Three Memorable Törggelen Experiences
Over the years, we’ve had the pleasure of experiencing Törggelen at several traditional South Tyrolean farmhouses. While the food and customs may be familiar from one farm to the next, the people, history, and surroundings give each celebration a character all its own.
Here are three of our favorite Törggelen experiences, each offering a different taste of South Tyrol’s fifth season.
Rielingerhof: Fine Wine, History & Hospitality
Perched more than 2,400 feet on the Renon (Ritten) plateau, home to the bizarre Earth Pyramids, Rielingerhof is an organic wine farm with roots stretching back to the early 13th century.
Today, Matthias Messner and his wife, Evi, carry on Rielingerhof’s centuries-old winemaking legacy. The farm once supplied food and wine to the nobles of nearby Castel Pietra (Stein Castle), whose medieval ruins still overlook the surrounding vineyards. Together with their family, the Messners produce estate wines and welcome visitors to their traditional Buschenschank.
As we discovered, Rielingerhof remains true to its hospitable roots. Within minutes of our arrival on the farm, Matthias introduced himself and offered us a glass of wine.
While waiting for the other guests to arrive, we wandered through the vineyards, taking in the sweeping views of Schlern rising beyond the valley.
The celebration began beside an old stone barn, where Matthias lit the chestnut-roasting fire while his children took turns tending the Keschtn. With glasses continually refreshed, we listened as he shared stories about the farm and Törggelen’s history.
We made quick friends with a group of festive Germans who were staying overnight at Rielingerhof. Before long, two of them broke into a cheerful folk song, providing an impromptu soundtrack to the evening.
Eventually, we moved into the farmhouse’s wood-paneled Stube for a feast of homemade South Tyrolean specialties. Between courses, more wine, and lively conversation with our newfound friends, the evening slipped away.
It was a wonderful reminder that Törggelen isn’t simply about what’s served at the table. It’s about who ends up sitting around it.
Winkler Hof: Farmhouse Traditions & a Few Surprises
Our very first Törggelen experience began with a hike across South Tyrol’s Villanderer Berg mountain to a famous trio of chapels in Barbian (Barbiano) known as the Dreikirchen.
After the hiking outing, we ventured to the Winkler Hof farm in the hamlet of Sauders (San Maurizio), just below Villanders (Villandro).
Owned by Luise and Anton Fink, this picturesque working farm has a history dating back to 1314. Over the centuries, the property has survived fires, changing rulers, and countless harvests. Today, the Fink family continues to raise livestock, grow produce, make wine, and welcome guests into their historic farmhouse.
We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse Stube wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts. From the table settings to the touches of Tyrolean folk art gracing the walls, every nook imparted an old-world ambiance that transports you to another time.
The feast was everything we’d hoped for, from roasted chestnuts and the farm’s own Vernatsch wine to savory dumplings, a mountain of meats and sauerkraut, and sweet Krapfen.
But the real entertainment came when Mr. Fink joined us at the table, dressed in traditional Tyrolean attire.
To our surprise, we discovered the chestnuts we consumed were “erotic” as he put it. According to Mr. Fink, these innocent-looking nuts possessed aphrodisiac qualities capable of stirring romance on even the coldest Alpine evening.
Whether he was joking with us or not, we could not tell. The bottomless pitcher of wine throughout the night had done its job.
Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine Schnapps. This mystery arrived in a small glass and wore an amber so deep it was almost hypnotic.
We toasted our friends across the table, Antonia and Diego, before splashing the potion down. It was invigorating; like a bolt of pure Alpine air jolting through you from mouth to feet.
Undoubtedly, a proper way to end a grand feast on a mountainside in South Tyrol.
Unterfinserhof: Nearly 900 Years of History Beneath a Monumental Chestnut Tree
Our latest Törggelen outing brought us to Unterfinserhof, a remarkable historic farmhouse in the hamlet of Ried, below Lajen (Laion). Even before we sat down to eat, the farmhouse’s centuries-old character and spectacular setting made this visit especially memorable.
The Schenk family’s farmhouse traces its origins to 1140, making it nearly 900 years old. Carefully restored in the early 1990s under historic preservation guidelines, the property retains much of its centuries-old character.
But it’s the setting that really steals the show.
From its perch above the Eisack Valley, Unterfinserhof offers magnificent views toward Trostburg Castle, the medieval fortress commanding the valley below. The combination of ancient farmhouse architecture, rolling vineyards, and castle-topped mountains makes this an especially memorable place to celebrate South Tyrol’s harvest.
Standing beside the farmhouse is another treasure: an enormous horse chestnut tree designated as a protected natural monument by the Province of South Tyrol.
Its massive trunk and spreading branches lend the old farmstead a sense of permanence. We found ourselves admiring this beautiful old tree almost as much as the castle views.
While the chestnuts from this particular tree aren’t the edible variety roasted for Törggelen, its presence seems perfectly suited to a farmhouse where autumn traditions have been celebrated for generations.
Inside, Unterfinserhof’s two traditional wood-paneled Stuben have welcomed Törggelen guests for decades. The farm produces its own wine, while the kitchen serves the hearty South Tyrolean specialties that have made the harvest season such a beloved time of year.
Like our evenings at Rielingerhof and Winkler Hof, the feast delivered plenty of reasons to loosen our belts. But what has stayed with us most is the farmhouse itself, its remarkable history, the majestic chestnut tree, and the view of Trostburg rising above the valley.
Some places are memorable for what you eat. Others for the people you meet. Unterfinserhof reminded us that sometimes the setting deserves a place at the table, too.
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Tips for Experiencing Törggelen in South Tyrol
There may be no better time to hike and feast than in autumn. The Alps are ablaze with gold and burgundy hues and the season’s briskness inspires a hunger only hearty cuisine can satisfy.
While you do not have to endure a lengthy hike to partake in a Törggelen celebration, we cannot recommend enjoying a fall trek enough.
But before you head for the nearest farmhouse tavern, a little planning will help you enjoy South Tyrol’s fifth season like a local.
Hike the Keschtnweg
The classic way to experience Törggelen is to arrive hungry, preferably after a hike through the countryside. And few trails capture the spirit of the season better than the Keschtnweg, South Tyrol’s celebrated Chestnut Trail.
Stretching approximately 56 miles (90 km) from Neustift Abbey near Brixen through the hills of Valle Isarco and across Renon toward, Bolzano, Terlan and Vilpian, the trail winds through ancient chestnut groves, sun-kissed vineyards, medieval hamlets, and centuries-old farmsteads.
Fortunately, you don’t need to tackle the entire route to earn your dinner. The Keschtnweg can be explored in shorter stages, with numerous farmhouse taverns along the way. We particularly recommend exploring the trail around Villanders, Feldthurns, and Chiusa, which provides sweeping views of the Dolomites and also carries you to the historic Sabiona Monastery.
Just remember that a farmhouse serving Törggelen isn’t necessarily open every day. Check its hours and reserve a table before setting off. Few things disappoint a hungry hiker more than arriving at a farmhouse with the kitchen closed.
Choose an Authentic Farmhouse Tavern
Not every establishment advertising Törggelen offers the traditional farmhouse experience.
Restaurants throughout South Tyrol serve seasonal Törggelen menus, but for a more authentic celebration, seek out a working Buschenschank where the family produces its own wine and prepares traditional dishes using farm-raised and locally sourced ingredients.
We always find it especially rewarding enjoying a glass of wine just steps from the vineyard where its grapes were grown. Not to mention the opportunity to
Book Ahead and Check the Hours
Those planning their own fall visit to South Tyrol should keep in mind that Törggelen typically requires booking in advance.
Partaking in the custom is quite popular so we suggest contacting establishments a month out from your trip.
Also keep in mind that farmhouse hours aren’t necessarily restaurant hours. Some establishments open only a few days each week, while others offer Törggelen exclusively on certain evenings or weekends.
Saturday evenings can be particularly popular, especially during October when the autumn colors are at their peak.
And don’t assume every farmhouse serves the same menu or offers the same experience. If you’re hoping for a traditional multi-course feast rather than a lighter meal, confirm what’s being served when making your reservation.
Törggelen Etiquette: A Few Local Customs
Törggelen isn’t a formal affair, but a few local customs can help you feel right at home.
First, don’t rush. The food arrives in courses, the wine is meant to be savored, and lingering over conversation is practically part of the menu.
Don’t be surprised if you’re seated at a communal table. Sharing stories with fellow guests is part of Törggelen’s convivial spirit, and you may find yourself exchanging travel tales or joining a folk song before the evening ends. This give you an additional reason to brush up on German or Italian before your trip.
Here’s another tradition worth knowing: South Tyroleans break apart their Knödel with a fork rather than cutting them with a knife. It’s a small gesture of respect for the tender, handmade dumplings.
And if you’re not drinking wine, don’t overlook the region’s homemade fruit juices. South Tyrolean apples, pears, and elderflower are popular choices, often made with fruit grown on the farm.
Finally, arrange your transportation before the festivities begin. Many traditional farmhouse taverns sit along narrow mountain roads, far from public transportation. After several glasses of young wine and perhaps a farewell Schnapps, a designated driver or prearranged taxi is a wise investment.
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Why Törggelen Deserves a Place on Your Itinerary
After more than a decade exploring South Tyrol and the Dolomites, we still find Törggelen to be one of the region’s most rewarding traditions. It’s an opportunity to venture beyond the usual tourist stops and experience a side of the Dolomites that has little to do with cable cars, mountain summits, crowds, or picture-perfect panoramas.
Of course, the food and wine are reason enough to pull up a chair. But what stays with us long after the last chestnut is cracked are the people and places.
These are the moments that remind us why we fell in love with South Tyrol in the first place. Its traditions aren’t simply preserved for visitors to admire. They’re still part of everyday life, passed from one generation to the next.
So if your travels bring you to South Tyrol and the Dolomites in autumn, make room for Törggelen. Take the scenic route to a farmhouse, arrive hungry, and plan to stay awhile.
And don’t bother saving room for dessert. Somehow, you’ll find it.
🍂 Good to Know: If you would like help embarking on a Törggelen adventure, we can put together an amazing itinerary that will forever change how you view autumn.
Book a Törggelen Experience
Reading about Törggelen is one thing. Pulling up a chair in a farmhouse Stube is another. Join Franz Lageder, a certified South Tyrolean Gourmet Ambassador, for a fun-filled evening that begins with speck and regional cheeses and unfolds into a traditional harvest feast. Expect hearty farmhouse dishes, local wine, roasted chestnuts and sweet pastries, with Franz sharing the traditions behind the meal. He handles pickup and the drive home, too.
Learn MoreWe’d like to extend a special thanks to IDM Südtirol for introducing us to Törggelen early in our travels through South Tyrol. That introduction opened the door to some of our most memorable evenings in the region.
What a beautiful post on the Törggelen festival. It sounds like my kind of thing to do. The views on the way are breathtaking. I am already in love with it. Those vistas, then wine with amazing food, we are up for that hike. I am sure it will be a memory to cherish forever.
Thank you for the nice comment Suruchi!
What a feast! I’m always down for wine and all sorts of festivities, especially after a good hike in the mountains. I’m falling in love more and more of South Tyrol – Why do their architecture look so much like it’s from Switzerland or Austria? Some war where territories changed hands and the Italians won? Whatever the history, the location looks amazing!
Hi Adonis – Yes South Tyrol was a part of the Austrian empire until the end of WWI when the region was annexed by Italy. The result is a delicious blend of both cultures that you must experience!
The Törggelen harvest festival sounds like my kind of thing to do. I would certainly do a hearty hike if I got great food and wine as a reward. Especially with all of those great view. Good to know it is a two month celebration. Definitely a great autumn trip to plan.
What a nice tradition. It’s kind of like Oktoberfest from what I understand. I’ve heard South Tyrol is beautiful, but your pictures exceed everything I imagined. How enchanting to hike to Dreikirchen on a beautiful day like that, then spend the evening on a farm. That food looks so yummy!
What a lovely tradition — to hang a branch over your door to signal that your kichen is open to guests! And fun folklore myths behind it, as well. A south Tyrol hike sounds wonderful, especially in the fall season. I like to explore cemeteries, but have not heard of one where all the tombstones are facing east — I imagine that’s to face the rising sun. It all sounds so magical.
Dear Lord, you had me from the “hearty feast and wine sampling” start. South Tyrol, where you been all my life? What a gorgeous destination! I was trying to figure out what it reminded me of (the sheer beauty) and then you asked if it looked like a Grimm Bros. fairytale. Yes, that is exactly what it looks like. Thanks for sharing. What an amazing visit.
You’re welcome Melody. Glad to have helped you to discover South Tyrol!
I’d love to do this. I love hiking in South Tyrol, the scenery and hiking trails are excellent. Plus, this one has wine at the end of it so what can go wrong. I’ve pinned this for the next time we’re in this part of the world.
Great to hear Paul. Glad we could introduce you to this tradition!
This looks like its straight out of a fairtytale. I half expect the Cinderella’s drawfs to be wandering around those pubs. Was the hike very difficult? I imagine i wont even feel it with such amazing views. This has gone right to the top of the bucket list. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comment Kristina. The hiking is not at all difficult unless you have to dodge drunk dwarfs tumbling down the mountainside! 😉
This is one of the best part in Austria! We always go there for skiing but have never convinced of going there in Autumn. We though of going thee in summer time for a hiking. But now I think the autumn is actually the better time for hiking as well.
Hi Mijia – South Tyrol is actually south of Austria and is a part of Italy. You should visit to ski and hike!
Villanders sounds picture perfect. A thousand year old village with those views? Yes please, it sounds amazing to go hiking there.
I love the sound of farmhouse inns, gathering chestnuts and sampling wine. The hillside churches are fabulous. South Tyrol sounds like a great place to visit
How fascinating to have created a fifth season! You’ve captured such beauty in South Tyrol, from the idyllic rolling hills, soaring mountains, winding trails and people. This is just the kind of place I’d love to visit. I marveled at the woodwork in The farmstead of Winkler Hof (those chairs!), not to mention the interesting foods. You’ve got me dreaming of roasted chestnuts, krapfen, and mountain pine schnapps…
Tyrol is very famous for its scenic beauty but Törggelen on its south is really worth. The views of Church of St. Stephan and Church of St. Michael in Villanders with backdrop of hills are truly stunning. Dreikirchen is also interesting with that mystery of three churches as why they are build together and who built them. Thanks for sharing hidden gem near Tyrol.
You’re welcome Yukti!
This sounds amazing. We’ve been thinking of visiting the Tyrol for ages and have never heard of this Törggelen tradition. A hearty hike, followed by a feast and wine sounds like the absolute perfect escape.
I would be rather upset if some dwarves stole my wine!
Ha! Yes, those rascals can spoil a good night 😉
This would be amazing to do, to hike Törggelen in the fall and experience the churches, the farmhouses, the taverns, the views. We were in North Tyrol last year. We will try this next time.
I love hiking but never done this part of Austria. I think I could spend a lot of time this area and the fall I find is the best time to do this. I do a lot of hiking in nearby Switzerland in September and early October before the snow sets in, so to see the changing of the leaves or bare trees whilst hiking in the mountains is an amazing thing to see. I also love a good feast and wine (or strong beer) at the end of a long days hike. 🙂 Love reading this post, taken a few pointers from it and loving your photos.
Hi Danik – Thank you for the comment and compliment! Agreed autumn is the best time to hike. Just to clarify, South Tyrol is actually a region of Italy right below Austria. It was once a part of Austria but became a region in Italy after WWI.
South Tyrol in the fall sounds like the perfect escape. My husband loves hiking, and I’m getting better at it. And we both love wine and a good feast. 🙂 So, following the tradition of an afternoon hike to the feast and wine sampling sounds ideal. I love how calm it all seems. Can you tell I need a vacation? 😉