Horns, Hooves, and Hellish Fun: Welcome to Krampuslauf in the Dolomites

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Kate + Vin

Krampus Icon

Not every holiday tradition in the Dolomites invites the warm fuzzies. In fact, some — like Krampuslauf — rip away the tinsel and tidings, leaving you wide-eyed and shivering with a kind of fear not even a steamy mug of mulled wine can thaw. Discover how an evening with Krampus offers a side of Christmas you won’t soon forget.

You know Christmas. Jolly old Saint Nick, cozy fires, twinkling lights, all that Gemütlichkeit we’re sold by greeting card companies. Looking at you, Hallmark. But let us tell you about a fur-forward holiday tradition from the crags and peaks of the Alps that makes your ugly sweater party look like a stuffy tea social.

Meet Krampuslauf — the infamous Krampus Run. It’s part parade, part theater, and all nightmare. During this after-dark spectacle, locals shapeshift into Krampus — becoming half-goat, half-demon. They don wooden masks crowned with horns and gleaming fangs, then cloak themselves in ragged goat-skin fur, tangled with chains and cowbells that clatter as if Hell’s very own marching band is smashing their way down the street.

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And if that doesn’t make your heart race, just wait until the Krampus swing into action — literally. As they thunder across the cobblestones, fire and smoke belch into the night, and they start whipping switches and horse-tails, lashing at the crowd with devilish delight.

When the screams begin to fill the air, the line between spectator and participant blurs. But the second a bundle of branches snaps against your skin, that line disappears. Completely. You’re no longer watching the madness — you’re living it. And trust us, nothing compares to being hunted by Krampus.

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The Story of Krampuslauf

A Krampus running toward a child at the Krampuslauf Krampus Run Kastelruth
At an authentic Krampuslauf event, Krampus charge at you from every direction, swinging horsetails and birch branches with wild abandon.

Krampuslauf. The name alone feels like it’s crawling out of some dark, forgotten cavern of history. And in a way, it is. The roots of Krampus, or Tuifl and Perchten, as the folkloric beasts are also known, twist back centuries to pre-Christian Europe — particularly the wild, snow-pummeled Alps of Austria, Germany, Italy and Switzerland.

Back then, the winter solstice wasn’t just another tick on the calendar. No, to ancient mountain folk, it was when the line between the living and the dead got dangerously thin. The kind of time when long nights brought things far worse than bitter temps. So, what did they do? They fought back the only way they knew how.

These hardy souls engaged in rituals to ward off the evil. They lit massive bonfires, hoping to burn away whatever was lurking in the shadows. They wore grotesque masks — trying to look scarier than the creatures hunting them. And they made offerings to bribe the darkness itself, praying it would pass over their village and instead unleash havoc on those smug Joneses just beyond the yonder.

A child face-to-face with a Krampus at a Krampuslauf parade in Kastelruth

Fast forward hundreds of years, as Christianity swept across Europe, the Catholic Church folded many pagan traditions into its own playbook. Instead of erasing ancient customs, they adapted them. Krampus, once the savage, horned figure of pagan folklore, was stitched into the Christmas narrative, becoming the Christmas Devil — St. Nicholas’s dark counterpart.

According to myth, Krampus is part of a rogue gallery of supernatural entities, like vampires and werewolves, conquered by St. Nicholas and forced into his service. On Krampusnacht, the night of December 5th right before St. Nicholas Day, he sets them loose.

While St. Nick sneaks into homes to dole out presents to the good kids, the Krampus storm in. And guess what? They are not there for the eggnog. These unruly brutes wind up delivering swift smacks to any naughty children. But that’s just the warm-up. The truly rotten of the bunch? They get tossed into a basket and hauled off to face a fate far worse than a lump of coal.

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The larger Krampuslauf events, like this one in Castelrotto, feel less like a quaint holiday tradition and more like a twisted yuletide fever dream.

By the time the 20th century rolled around, these dreaded house calls morphed into the chaotic spectacle we know today as Krampuslauf. What was once a night of reckoning inside homes now spills into the streets with fire, fury, and a whole lotta hellish fun.

Today, towns and villages across alpine regions like the Dolomites, as well as other parts of Europe including Hungary and the Czech Republic, come alive with annual Krampus Runs on Krampus Night. It’s an evening where locals revel in the thrill of becoming the very monsters they once feared. And throngs of snot-nosed kids, once petrified by tales of being stuffed into Krampus’ sack, now line the streets wide-eyed — caught between awe and terror. Here’s how you can join in the frenzy.

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How to Attend a Krampuslauf

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Sure, you can probably catch a Krampus parade in a large city such as New York during the holiday season, but anything in the United States or elsewhere outside of Central Europe is bound to feel as authentic as laptime with Santa Claus. For the real Krampuslauf experience, plan a trip to South Tyrol and the Dolomites during the first week of December.

Not only will you witness the wild, centuries-old tradition in its true form, but you can also wander through the region’s enchanting Christmas markets — a perfect way to re-sugarcoat the season after a night spent tussling with Krampus, face to fang.

The most spectacular Krampuslauf events take place in Austria and the Dolomites, particularly in the towns of Salzburg, Graz, Castelrotto (Kastelruth), Toblach (Dobbiaco), and Sexten (Sesto). However, you’ll also find plenty of spirited Krampus Runs in other communities. While these smaller events may not be as grand, Krampuslauf in villages like South Tyrol’s Margreid offers a more intimate atmosphere, giving you a closer look at what the tradition means to the locals.

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Krampuslauf dates can change from year to year, so it’s always best to check local event schedules before planning your visit.

Helpful Tip: If you plan to attend one of the larger Krampuslauf celebrations, arrive at least 1 hour before the chaos kicks off. This will ensure a decent parking spot (if you’re driving in Italy) and claim a prime viewing spot along the parade route. South Tyrol also has an excellent public transportation network, making it easy to skip the hassle of parking and traffic.

For an even better experience, consider booking a hotel in the town where the Krampuslauf is held. Last year, we stayed at Hotel Cavallino D’oro in Castelrotto, perfectly situated for reaching Alpe di Siusi and enjoying the town’s iconic Krampus Run which is officially called Krampuslauf Kastelruther. Staying nearby not only let us stroll through the Krampus staging area before the parade but also join the lively afterparty, complete with flowing drinks, live music and a few Krampus still in full character.

Helpful Tip: Even though Krampus will get your heart pumping, be sure to dress warmly when attending a Krampus Run — snowfall has greeted us at nearly every event we’ve attended. And don’t forget to bring some cash, because even amid horns and fire, a warm drink like mulled wine or snack can make all the difference. Also, avoid wearing light-colored clothing. Some Krampus wear black makeup that can easily rub off during your encounters with the beasts.

⇒ EXPLORE AVAILABILITY AT HOTEL CAVALLINO D’ORO HERE

When is Krampuslauf?

Sticking to tradition, Krampuslauf takes place on December 5th, the eve of St. Nicholas Day — known as Krampusnacht, or Krampus Night as previously mentioned. However, some Krampuslauf events are held throughout the first two weeks of December to avoid overlapping with other Krampus Runs and various holiday celebrations.

Helpful Tip: If you’d like assistance planning your Krampuslauf adventure, visit our Travel Services page. We’ll ensure you don’t miss a single fiery moment and help you enjoy the best of the region’s Christmas markets and festivities. Plus, we’ll help you embark on winter hikes in the Dolomites at stunning destinations like Val Fiscalina, Prato Piazza, Lago di Braies and more.

⇒ PLAN YOUR ESCAPE: GET OUR SOUTH TYROL + DOLOMITES TRAVEL GUIDE

Our Favorite Krampuslauf Moments

In this Krampus photo collection, we share everything from our top bone-chilling confrontations with the horned heathen to behind-the-scenes glimpses of the costumes and preparation that goes into bringing Krampuslauf to life.

From the frozen banks of Lago di Carezza all the way to the snow-covered streets of Toblach and San Candido, we have attended multiple Krampuslauf events and have captured every thrilling moment. Get ready to witness the chaos, the fear, and the festive spirit that only the Krampus tradition can deliver. By the time you are done viewing these photos, you’ll know whether Krampuslauf belongs on your bucketlist.


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