Hidden in a dense forest beneath the saw-toothed peaks of Haunold lie the haunting remains of a once-glorious spa resort: Wildbad Innichen (Bagni di San Candido). Once a regal retreat for emperors and aristocrats, it now stands as one of the Dolomites’ most evocative forgotten gems — perfect for travelers who crave mystery over crowds.
You don’t wander into Wildbad Innichen (also known as Bagni Wildbad) by accident. It doesn’t advertise. It doesn’t host selfie-obsessed influencers. And it sure as hell doesn’t serve lavish cocktails whispering of Edelweiss and gin. But if you lace up your boots and follow the forest trail southeast of Innichen (San Candido) — through the fragrant pines of the Drei Zinnen Nature Park in Val Pusteria — you’ll find it.
What you’ll find isn’t pretty. Not in the postcard sense. But there’s an undeniable beauty in this decaying masterpiece. It’s broken. It’s honest. What’s left when the last song ends, the last train leaves, and no one bothers to sweep up the glitter.
Known in its heyday as the Grand Hotel Wildbad, this poetic ruin once drew Europe’s royal elite for rest, rejuvenation, and revelry. Now? It’s a shell. A crumbling, moss-laced corpse with busted balconies, vacant windows, and a stone-cold stare that dares you to imagine what it once was.
We visited Wildbad Innichen on a rain-soaked day, when hiking cloud-high in the Dolomites was not an option, and to our surprise, found ourselves transfixed by the silence and the strange comfort of watching nature gently reclaim its wilderness. You will too.
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Springs Steeped in Time
Long before the aristocratic glitterati strolled into Grand Hotel Wildbad’s palatial lobby, Wildbad Innichen was sacred. The Illyrians and Romans were here first, drawn by healing waters bubbling from the mountainside. Archaeologists have uncovered Roman coins, ceramic fragments, and even a bronze statue of Zeus.
For over 2,000 years, people came not for the views, but for the water. Five natural springs still flow here: Kaiserwasser, Lavaredo, Schwefelquelle (sulfur spring), Eisenquelle (iron spring), and Candida. Each one rises from a different underground depth, carrying its own mineral fingerprint. Long after the fall of Rome, travelers continued to “take the waters”. Some for the stomach. Some for the skin. One allegedly cured impotence. Another? Infertility. You name the ailment, Wildbad Innichen promised a cure.
But the waters have always held more than just minerals.
Alpine folklore speaks of a silent presence watching over these springs. In the local heritage book Unterm Haunold (Below the Haunold), there’s mention of a strange, fleeting encounter in the forest: “A Badweibl sits by the road and watches little Peter ride past…”
The “Badweibl” is an ancient, spectral presence said to haunt the sacred springs of the Alps. Neither good nor evil, she belongs to that older order of things, where gods bled into ghosts and the forest decided who walked out whole.
She appears when the veil between worlds is thin… at dusk, at dawn, and in the strange stillness between seasons. Said to be seen only by certain people, often children or those attuned to nature, she may test travelers, offering a riddle, or vanishing if spoken to.
By the 16th century, a rustic bathhouse known as the Bauernbadl had risen beside the springs, attracting both peasants and pilgrims. And in 1594, the modest Chapel of St. Salvatore was consecrated on a wooded hill above the springs. It still stands, weathered but steadfast.
Then came the opulence.
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A Spa for the High-Born
The true golden age of Wildbad began in 1854 when Hungarian physician Dr. Johann Scheiber purchased the property. Driven by a vision of health care for all, he transformed the humble bath into a progressive sanatorium open to both the sick and the seeking. His dream was healing through nature: five springs, fresh mountain air, and a forested setting that inspired serenity.
By the 1880s, the sanatorium had been reborn as the Grand Hotel Wildbad, a palace-like resort catering to nobility and elite society. Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, the Crown Prince of Prussia Frederick III, and the ill-fated Archduke Franz Ferdinand all once walked these halls. Here, lavish balls were held. Steam baths, music salons, and game rooms entertained the posh and pomp of Europe.
Even one of the springs was christened Kaiserwasser, “Emperor’s Water”, in their honor. With Art Nouveau flair meeting classical Tyrolean charm, the hotel’s wooden balconies, painted ceilings, and towered windows made it a gem of Alpine architecture in the late 19th century.
Then came the war.
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From Nobility to Neglect
In 1914, the music stopped at Grand Hotel Wildbad. The First World War chewed its way through the Alps. By 1916, the hotel had been commandeered by the Austro-Hungarian military. No more string quartets. No more baths. Just boots, barked orders, and rations of stew only a Krampus could love.
After the war, political borders shifted. South Tyrol was annexed by Italy, cutting off former guests from what was now a foreign land. The elite never returned.
In 1937, the hotel’s inventory was auctioned off. Years of abandonment followed. Looters stripped it of art, furniture, and fixtures. Nature and time did the rest. The once-glowing frescoes faded. And in just a few decades, the hotel became a ruin beyond salvation.
Then came the ghosts.
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Why Visit WildBad Innichen?
Despite its sad fate, the ruins of Wildbad Innichen offer something that few polished attractions can: a genuine sense of mystery, majesty, and melancholy. And perhaps the chance to glimpse a ghost or two wandering its skeletal halls or peeking from behind a cracked windowpane. They don’t rattle chains, but you’ll swear the echoing footsteps you hear are not your own.
What we felt most visiting Wildbad Innichen was awe. It’s a place that recalls a time when wellness wasn’t Instagrammed but revered, and when healing was sought not in pills, but in the purity of nature.
The five springs of Wildbad Innichen still flow. Three have public spouts, each marked with signs that explain the water’s mineral content and historic uses. Bring an empty bottle and sample their distinct flavors, from the iron bite of the Eisenquelle to the stomach-soothing clarity of the Lavaredo spring. Informational panels near the springs describe their therapeutic benefits, many of which were officially studied and endorsed by the University of Innsbruck in the 19th century.
Good to Know: You can purchase the water from Kaiserwasser and Lavaredo springs. It is bottled and sold by Kaiserwasser, a company in Innichen that is owned by the FORST Brewery near Merano.
After taking in the striking contrast between the crumbling Grand Hotel Wildbad and its lush alpine setting, follow the short uphill trail to the Chapel of St. Salvatore. While the chapel is often closed (it was during our visit), the site is still a powerful vantage point. And there’s something always awe-inspiring about a 16th-century chapel still standing stoic watching centuries come and go.
Historians speculate the chapel was not the first sacred site on this hill. Long before Christianity, it may have been a place where people worshipped the healing power of the springs.
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How to Visit Wildbad Innichen
You can reach Wildbad Innichen either by car or on foot. If you’re driving in Italy and prefer to skip the hike, head east from Innichen (San Candido) toward Sexten (Sesto) for just over a mile (2 km). Keep an eye out for a small turnoff on the right, marked with signs pointing into the forest. A short distance down this road, you’ll find a small parking lot at the start of the trail.
If you prefer to enjoy a pleasant hike to the ruins, you can start from the Haunold cable car valley station or one of the large public parking lots in Innichen. From there, walk to the trailhead leading into the forest.
The path to the Wildbad Innichen is well-marked, gently sloping, and takes about 40 minutes one way. For a greater adventure with even better mountain views, you can take the Haunold lift up to Rifugio Baranci (Haunold Hütte) and hike down to the ruins before returning to town.
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Tips for Visiting Wildbad Innichen
Before you go, here are a few tips to make the most of your visit:
- Bring a water bottle to sample the mineral-rich springs. Three are accessible via public spouts.
- Pack a picnic. Several benches and tables are tucked near the ruins
- Skip packing your hard hats. For safety and preservation, the Grand Hotel Wildbad can only be viewed from the outside.
- Time your visit wisely. Early mornings or misty afternoons enhance the atmosphere
- Use it as a backup plan. Wildbad Innichen is a great alternative if weather scrambles your plans to hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Lago di Braies, or Prato Piazza.
- Respect the silence. Ignore the ghosts. This is not just a ruin. It’s a place layered with history, memory, and a touch of mystery.
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