South Tyrol Festivals & Events

Italy Adorned in Light: Discovering the Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

If only Ebenezer Scrooge spent one holiday moment in South Tyrol, Italy, the Ghosts of Christmas would have surely found another wretched soul to haunt. The Christmas markets of South Tyrol conjure a merry spirit that never leaves your heart.

Set amidst some of the most spectacular mountain backdrops in the world, South Tyrol’s Christmas markets beam with Alpine tidings and charm. Especially when the evergreen boughs bend beneath the first kiss of snow and the summits gleam silver under the winter moonlight.

Indeed, such storybook sights could make anyone spontaneously burst into carol.

But even if you’re not lucky enough to witness the sparkle of fresh-fallen mountain snow while in South Tyrol, you will still glisten with glee strolling its Christmas markets. They alight even the Scroogiest amongst us with holiday cheer.

Falling snow at the Merano Christmas Market — Few sights enchant like fresh-fallen snow on Italy’s Christmas markets.

From the festively decorated market stalls crafted of mountain pine to the tempting aromas of South Tyrolean pastries tickling your nose to the traditional handicrafts born deep in the Dolomites, you will find no place embodies the magic of Christmas quite like the Italian Alps.

In this post, we take you on a sweeping journey through South Tyrol’s most popular markets. Not only will you get a peek into their individual charms, but you’ll also discover our advice on how to enjoy them in person.

Merano Christmas Market

Merano possesses what we consider to be the most enchanting walk in Italy so it’s no surprise then this wander-friendly town straddling the roaring Passer River hosts a Christmas market of equal enchantment. Many of Merano’s 70+ market stalls run along the riverfront promenade, but you will find Christmas splendor sprinkled throughout the town when you visit.

Nestled in the Piazza della Rena is the Historic Christmas Village of Merano, which celebrates age-old Christmas traditions and specialties. After walking the procession of stalls on the promenade, the village makes a cozy place to huddle next to a fire with a warm cup of Glühwein and listen to the holiday melodies radiating from the nearby stage.

Across the river, in the Piazza Terme you can swirl the night away on an outdoor ice-skating rink and dine inside gigantic Christmas bulb ornaments. For a panoramic view of all of Merano’s holiday dazzle, be sure to relax by the fire on the rooftop of the Forst beer garden.

Sterzing Christmas Market

As the smallest of the big markets in South Tyrol, the Sterzing Christmas market (also known as Vipiteno) packs a bundle of charm on every square inch of the town’s Piazza Città. Walking through it is like stepping into a holiday snowglobe.

This town seemingly lost in the ages of thrones and stone has often been touted as one the “most beautiful villages in Italy”. It’s easy to see why any time of year, but a visit during the Christmas season makes it a truly undeniable claim.

The 15th-century Zwölferturm (Tower of the Twelve) clock tower shimmers above the Christmas market like a medieval beacon for St. Nicholas. Romantic two-story houses with massive bay windows adorned in Christmas decor hide their centuries of wear behind colorful facades. Their vivid hues enfold the market’s festive atmosphere.

Sterzing in South Tyrol, Italy — The “Tower of the Twelve” greets you at the entrance of the Sterzing Christmas market.

After browsing the stalls and indulging in a warm bowl of Speckknödelsuppe, savor more of Sterzing’s history by visiting the Church of the Holy Spirit just beyond the market.

For an additional helping of South Tyrolean Christmas tradition, be sure to visit during one of the many Krampus runs that take place throughout South Tyrol.

Once inside this Gothic marvel from 1399, the bustle of the market recedes into silence allowing you to admire the surprising number of well-preserved frescoes gracing its ancient walls. They are among the most enthralling in South Tyrol.

Frescoes in the Church of the Holy Spirit in Sterzing, Italy — The frescoes of the Church of the Holy Spirit in Sterzing tell a remarkable story well worth studying.

Brixen Christmas Market

Celebrating the true essence of Christmas in Brixen could have said to begun nearly 500 years ago when the town’s residents welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman no doubt needed rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north. Brixen welcomed him with open arms.

Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. Those two weeks left quite an impression on the town.

In addition to its wonderous Christmas market, held in the historic Piazza Duomo under guard of the oldest cathedral in northern Italy, Brixen celebrates Soliman’s journey to this day. During the holiday season, you can be whisked away to a fantasy world through a production called “Soliman’s Dream”. Taking place in the courtyard of the 13th-century Bishop’s Palace (Hofburg), the show is a must-see spectacle.

Like Merano, Brixen’s market also includes an outdoor ice-skating rink. For a graceful outing on the ice, we recommend taking a spin before partaking in the joys of Glühwein.

Bolzano Christmas Market

When a town holds a man lost in a tomb of glacial ice for 5,300 years, you better believe they know how to revel in the blessings of winter. Bolzano boasts the largest Christmas market in Italy…and the most stunning Christmas tree we have ever laid eyes on.

Centered around the soulful marble statue of medieval Minnesinger Walther von der Vogelweide in the Waltherplatz, Bolzano’s market pulsates day and night with patrons. Those keen on finding novel Christmas gifts can peruse 80+ stalls selling everything from South Tyrolean cheeses to felt slippers to Alpine wellness oils, lotions and herbs culled from the pines and prairies of the Dolomites.

For those more keen on amplifying their Christmas spirit than pursuing stocking stuffers, several stands around the square begift generous pours of Glühwein and other seasonal libations. The lively atmosphere of Bolzano’s Christmas market makes it a joy to simply sip by a glowing fire and socialize with those around you.

After filling up on the tidings of Bolzano’s traditional market, experience Christmas like the locals by venturing beyond the Waltherplatz to its boutique Christmas markets tucked in the Piazza Municipio, Piazza del Grano and in the courtyard of Palazzo Campofranco.

Bolzano Cathedral during the Christmas Market — The largest Gothic church in South Tyrol looms ancient over Italy’s most popular Christmas market.

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How to Visit Italy’s Christmas Markets

If you plan to be in South Tyrol during the Christmas season, it pays to make time to visit all of these markets. The markets themselves can be enjoyed for as little or as long as you like, but each town offers an abundance of additional sights and historic treasures such as castles, churches and monasteries that should not be missed. We recommend planning on either a half or full-day in each town.

Those seeking a more relaxing stroll through the markets should time their visit during the week. The popularity of South Tyrol’s Christmas Markets means the weekends can become crowded.

No matter when you visit, consider an eco-friendly way by using South Tyrol’s stellar public transportation with the Mobilcard. Doing so contributes to the markets’ certification as a “Green Event”. This means South Tyrol ensures its Christmas markets transpire in the most ecological and sustainable manner possible by using local resources, smart waste management practices and more.

The Christmas markets begin at the end of November and end after the first week of January. Opening times for each market can be found on South Tyrol’s official website.

For an additional helping of South Tyrolean Christmas tradition, be sure to visit during one of the many Krampus runs that take place throughout South Tyrol. These fantastical events will elevate your holiday celebrations to a whole new level of fun and fright. Guaranteed.

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Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

In a land with as many deep-rooted traditions as soaring mountain peaks, it’s no wonder the festive souls of South Tyrol sought to make a beloved autumn custom its very own season.

Touted as South Tyrol’s fifth season, Törggelen is a centuries-old tradition celebrating the harvest’s new wine called “Nuier”, “Suser” or “Sauser”. The tradition involves a hearty hike in the afternoon followed by an even more hearty feast and wine sampling in the evening. Rural taverns or farmhouse inns called “Buschenschank” host the gatherings throughout Eisacktal Valley (Valle Isarco), as well as in other chestnut-friendly corners of South Tyrol.

In this post, we show you why adding this treasured tradition to your fall South Tyrol trip plans is a must. You’ll join us on a Törggelen-themed hike through ancient chestnut groves to a mysterious trio of medieval churches and then dine with us at a farmhouse perched on a mountainside eyeing the Dolomites.

⇒ Ready to embark on your own Törggelen adventure? Jump forward to a list of Törggelen establishments and events.

The Beginnings of Törggelen

Törggelen occurs through much of autumn from mid-September to the start of the Christmas season in mid-November. According to local lore, this is the time when the Wein-Nörggelen, a mischievous band of dwarves descend from the mountains to steal the wine of the harvest.

Chestnuts for Torggelen — In autumn, South Tyroleans gather chestnuts from the mountainsides to create a host of specialties.

The Törggelen tradition is thought to have begun centuries ago in Eisacktal Valley as a private gathering among neighbors. After a successful grape harvest, the local winemaker would invite nearby friends to a jovial evening sampling the new wine.

Now, this is not the kind of wine found on the shelf of your local wine shop. It is wine from freshly-crushed grapes in the early stages of fermentation — cloudy in color and potently sweet in flavor. In fact, the name Törggelen originates from the Latin word for wooden wine press. The Törggelen term “Buschenschank” dates back to the late Middle Ages when a bushy tree branch was placed above farmhouse doorways signaling to guests their kitchen was open.

Törggelen hosts complemented the new wine with autumn delicacies such as fire-roasted chestnuts, as well as speck, knödel dumplings and an assortment of cured sausages. After ample amounts of drinking and eating, the evening typically concluded with dancing and belting out traditional folk songs.

we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

Today, the tradition remains much the same, however, many farmhouse inns no longer only cater to a handful of well-known guests, but instead welcome strangers throughout the two-month-long celebration. These humble farmers thrive on the company and regale guests after the feast with tales of life in rural South Tyrol.

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A Törggelen-Themed Hike to Dreikirchen

Our first Törggelen adventure began in the old world heart of Villanders (Villandro), a thousand-year-old village tucked high into a mountainside of Eiscack Valley. Age-old cobblestones wound through a narrow alley leading us past one of the most inviting entrances to a restaurant we had ever seen.

The Steinbock Manor & Restaurant (Zum Steinbock) resides in a castle wearing centuries of utter romantic ruin. Its stone walls whispered of tales long ago enrapturing us with mystery and intrigue. We made a note to return another time. Dining within would undoubtedly be a noble experience.

Villanders Churches — The Törggelen hike to the Dreikirchen begins with stunning views of the Church of St. Stephan and Church of St. Michael in Villanders.

On the other end of the alley, two church towers greeted us with spires piercing deep into the blue October sky. The masterful medieval stonework of each appeared gilded in gold beneath the warm gleam of the autumn sun.

We circled the Church of St. Stephan and Church of St. Michael encountering a cemetery unlike any other in South Tyrol. The tombs and wrought-iron crosses lie in such a way that the dead always face the rising sun. We noticed lanterns dotting the graves and made plans to visit when we could admire its beauty under candle glow.

Behind the Church of St. Stephan we ascended stone steps up a slope to the Three Churches Trail (Dreikirchenweg). Following the path, marked as no. 4 on signage, we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

we found the Three Churches enthroned in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom.

We found their swooping canopies and massive trunks weathered by centuries of Alpine wind and sun especially enchanting. Sitting beneath their leafy cover with the sun’s rays sprinkling through was next to divine. The idyllic setting to read a book or simply study the peaks of Dolomites far across the valley before nodding off into a gentle slumber.

Torggelen Hiking Trail — A trail of endless sights. The hike to the Dreikirchen was among the most picturesque we have embarked on in South Tyrol.

Moving on we encountered a pasture hidden by a halo of woodland. Within cows and South Tyrol’s celebrated Haflinger horses grazed together. Upon spotting us the horses galloped abruptly to our feet.

Whether they were anticipating a handout of apples or chestnuts, we did not know. But we were not about to share such delectable treats as they were not ours to give. Disappointed by such stingy hikers they quickly moved on.

After an hour or so of hiking, the path descended into a hardwood forest. When we emerged from the shady cover we came to a paved road. A sign pointed us to continue along the pavement as it curved through the side valley until reaching another road snaking up through a stand of larches.

South Tyrol offers several Törggelen-themed hikes that expose you to the natural charms of the season imbuing a merry spirit well before your first sip of wine.

On the other side, we found the Dreikirchen (Three Churches) enthroned in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom. The churches reside in the hamlet of Dreikirchen, which sits almost due north of the village of Barbian (Barbiano).

Visiting the Dreikirchen

Mystery still shrouds the Three Churches. No one knows why the builders huddled them together. Nor who the builders were or why they chose such an isolated location.

The oldest, St. Gertrude, was built in 1237. Well-preserved Gothic frescoes and Baroque shrines adorn its interior guiding you to an altar where a statue of St. Gertrude stands between candles below a scene of the Crucifixion.

Wooden Steeples of Dreikirchen — Ripped from the pages of Brothers Grimm? The trio of timbered steeples of the Dreikirchen is unlike any other in South Tyrol.

The second church, St. Nicholas, came shortly after the first was built while the third church, St. Magdalene was erected in 1470. Some believe the churches were established as shrines as they lie near pre-Roman healing springs. Perhaps medieval Christian worshipers sought to replace an ancient pagan sanctuary dedicated to the three goddesses of springs.

We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse dining room wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts.

The Three Churches are not left open, but you are welcome to retrieve the keys kept by the owners of a nearby rustic guesthouse called Gasthof Messnerhof. The establishment also offers traditional fare from their organic farm allowing you to grab a bite to eat before trekking back.

As we were keeping an eye on the clock to make sure we arrived on time for our night of Törggelen, we decided to skip snacking at Gasthof Messnerhof after touring the churches.

We followed the same route on our return to Villanders to save time. Despite our hurry, we still took occasional breaks to consume sips of water and long gulps of the Dolomites across the valley.

An Evening of Törggelen

Our Törggelen feast was reserved at a Buschenschank on the Winkler Hof farm in the hamlet of Sauderer (St. Moritz), just below Villanders. The estate was first mentioned in 1314.

Owned by Luise and Anton Fink, the farm is typical of South Tyrol. It beams with Alpine character from a sun-steeped slope next to the church of St. Mortiz, a mountainside chapel built in 1406.

The Fink family raises everything from dairy cows to pigs to hens and goats, as well as produces wine along with an assortment of berries and vegetables. They also supplement their income by offering guests a “farm stay” in one of three apartments located on the farmstead.

Winklerhof Farm — The farmstead of Winkler Hof delights you with home-made Törggelen flavors as equally rich as its wood-clad stuben.

We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse dining room wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts. From the table settings to the touches of Tyrolean folk art gracing the walls, every nook imparted old-world ambiance that transports you to another time.

Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine schnapps.

Our feast began with a bowl of tasty roasted chestnuts, a spread of speck and a glass of new wine from the farm’s Vernatsch grapes. This was followed by savory bowls of pumpkin soup and barley soup.

Then came a delicious dish of tris knödel, which is a speck, cheese and spinach dumpling served together atop Schlutzkrapfen ⁠— a pasta stuffed with spinach and Parmesan. A drizzle of melted butter crowned the heavenly fare. Ending the feast here would have typically been the wise thing to do, but not very South Tyrolean.

An immense platter of smoked sausages, pork and ham atop a bed of sauerkraut soon arrived tipping us from full to stuffed. But when the tray of sweets bounded on our table we somehow mustered the strength to devour every last bite of Krapfen (pastries filled with jam) and chestnut cake.

The rural revelry continued when Mr. Fink joined us at the table in his traditional attire to share a bit of history about Winkler Hof and Törggelen. To our surprise, we discovered the chestnuts we consumed were ‘erotic’ as he put it. Teeming with pheromones that made them the best aphrodisiac this side of the Alps.

Whether he was joking with us or not, we could not tell. The bottomless pitcher of wine throughout the night had done its job.

Torggelen Schnapps — Wine is not the only libation consumed during a Törggelen evening. Mountain pine schnapps is an Alpine-worthy apéritif to bring the dinner to close.

Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine schnapps. This mystery arrived in a small glass and wore an amber so deep it was almost hypnotic.

We toasted our friends across the table, Antonia and Diego, before splashing the potion down. It was invigorating. Like a bolt of pure Alpine air jolting through you from mouth to feet. Undoubtedly, a proper way to end a grand feast on a mountainside in South Tyrol.

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How to Find Törggelen Farmhouses & Taverns

There may be no better time to hike and feast than in autumn. The mountains and valleys are ablaze with dazzling gold and burgundy hues and the briskness in the breeze inspires a hunger only heartiness can satisfy.

Törggelen farmhouses and taverns can be found throughout the chestnut and wine-friendly growing regions of South Tyrol. These include Eisacktal Valley where Törggelen is thought to have originated, as well as along the South Tyrolean Wine Road, Merano and its bouquet of communities and San Genesio (Jenesien), which lies several thousand feet above Bolzano.

Törggelen typically requires booking in advance. Partaking in the custom is quite popular so we suggest contacting establishments more than a month out from your fall visit to South Tyrol.

Consider the following “Buschenschanks” located in Eisacktal Valley:

Villanders

Barbian

Chiusa

Feldthurns

You can find additional Törggelen Buschenschank recommendations for towns such as Brixen and Lajen by visiting the official Eisacktal website.

Additional Törggelen Hikes

While you do not have to endure a hearty hike to partake in a Törggelen feast, we cannot recommend embarking on a fall trek enough. South Tyrol offers several Törggelen-themed hikes that expose you to the natural charms of the season imbuing a merry spirit well before your first sip of wine.

One of the most popular hikes is the “Keschtnweg” (Chestnut Trail), which begins at the Abbey of Novacella in Brixen and runs 30+ miles to Runkelstein Castle in Bolzano. This is a multi-day hike obviously, but you can access it from several villages along to enjoy the trail as much as you see fit.

To discover more Törggelen-themed hikes, visit the official website for South Tyrol. Their Törggelen section list two dozen hikes ripe for South Tyrol’s fifth season!

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for introducing us to the Törggelen tradition!

ADD TÖRGGELEN TO YOUR TRAVEL WISHLIST

A Feast for Your Senses – The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Crispy or soft? Salty or sweet? Plain or bedazzled? However you like your baked goods, a trip to South Tyrol is not complete without indulging in the heavenly goodness kneaded and rolled within its bakeries. South Tyroleans are masters at crafting fields of wheat, barley and rye into enticing creations of pure culinary magic.

Swing into a village “backerei” (bakery) or stroll through one of the many daily food markets dotting the land and you’ll discover ample opportunities to sample South Tyrol’s baked specialties. But if you really want to appreciate the region’s centuries-old baking traditions, the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market in Brixen (Bressanone) is a must-attend festival.

This delicious autumn celebration takes place the first weekend of each October in one of the most picturesque squares in South Tyrol — the Piazza del Duomo. There’s nothing quite like being able to touch, smell and taste countless baked goods while wandering amid splendid antiquity.

Delight Yourself in Brixen

Brixen is a natural choice to show off the oven-tending talents of South Tyroleans. This ancient town reigns as the cultural heart of the Valle Iscarco (Eisacktal Valley). And it is also home to one of its most endearing culinary traditions: Törggelen.

With more than 1,000 years of history echoing over its cobblestones, Brixen is the oldest town in South Tyrol. The golden-towered Cathedral of Brixen soars over the square offering a jaw-dropping backdrop for bakers and festival revelers alike.

Upon entering the piazza you could simply bask happily in the wood-fired bread aromas billowing into the sky. But the real joy comes when you succumb to the sweet temptations all around you.

South Tyrolean Baked Goods — The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market showcases bread and baked goods from 18 bakeries around South Tyrol.

The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market hosts 18 baked goods stands throughout the square. These inviting displays showcase the special concoctions of bakers from rural mountain valleys throughout South Tyrol. You’ll encounter baked delights born from age-old family recipes only known to a few.

The best way to enjoy the market is to leisurely walk the square discovering the fanciful flavors of traditional South Tyrolean favorites such as schüttelbrot (a crispy flatbread made from rye), krapfen (a doughnut-like pastry), apfelstrudel (apple strudel), Pusterer breatl (a special loaf from Puster Valley), Vingschger paarl (rye rolls from Vinschgau valley) and much more.

Upon entering the piazza you could simply bask happily in the wood-fired bread aromas billowing into the sky. But the real joy comes when you succumb to the sweet temptations all around you.

We were astonished by the number of unique baked specialties originating from South Tyrol. In fact, a quick flip through the definitive cookbook of South Tyrol, Alpine Flavours, reveals more than 20 individual baked goods recipes from the region. If you have an interest in embarking on South Tyrolean culinary adventures in your own kitchen, we highly recommend adding this cookbook to your shelf.

Demonstrating making dough in Brixen — Beyond indulging in sumptuous baked specialties, the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market conducts several baking demonstrations each day of the festival.

In between bouts of nibbling, you can watch bakers demonstrate the various processes, techniques and artistry South Tyroleans use to make tasty bread and other baked goodness. And if your legs need a rest, consider catching a carriage ride from the square to take in the sights of Brixen.

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Quality Fresh from the Mountain to the Oven

South Tyroleans place a high value on quality. The region’s bread, baked goods and pasta are no exception.

The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market presents a delectable introduction to the mouth-watering benefits of the South Tyrolean Seal of Quality. This coveted seal guarantees the use of natural ingredients, homemade sourdough and spices. To earn the seal bakers must not use any ready-made mixes, preservatives or flavor enhancers.

Traditional Apple Strudel — Bring your appetite. Savoring every bite of South Tyrolean apfelstrudel is a must while visiting the market.

Today, 54 South Tyrolean farmers grown grain in the Venosta, Pusteria and Isarco valleys to meet the bread and baked goods needs of the region. An independent inspection bureau conducts regular checks to ensure compliance with the specified quality regulations.

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How to Attend the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

Getting to the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market is as easy as buttering warm bread. Brixen is among the most walkable towns in South Tyrol.

If you are arriving by car, we suggest parking in the Parkplatz located just off of Via Dante (Dantestraße). A tunnel from the lot will lead you directly to the Piazza del Duomo. The walk is less than 5 minutes.

South tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market Attendees — The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market offers the perfect break from a day of hiking.

Visiting Brixen by public transportation is encouraged to support the festival’s green initiatives. For bus and train options and timetables, visit the festival’s arrival page.

The specific dates of the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market each fall can be found at the official Valle Isarco website.

After attending the market, be sure to explore the historic treasures of Brixen. The town is a must-see for any fan of history, art and architecture. And if you’re also a fan of wine do not miss visiting the Neustift Monastery located just outside of Brixen. It is one of the oldest operating wineries in the world.

Discover Speckfest – A Mountain-size Celebration Not to Miss in South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

Before your eyes, deep green hills jounce jovially from one idyllic scene to the next. They swell like a sea; cresting into rustic farmsteads dotted with carefree cattle, serene stands of evergreens and thatches of larches afire in autumn’s molten gold.

If you were one prone to suddenly frolic whimsically it would be here. In this Shire-like land of undulating merry.

But then your eyes stretch further. They reach the horizon…where all hell breaks loose. Erupting abruptly 10,000 feet from the earth into the sky looms the serrated edges of a mountain that seem to tear the heavens asunder like a knife thrust into a pillow.

Your heart trembles. Palms sweat. What unseen force could wield such power to will these goliaths of crag and stone into being?

You ponder this lofty philosophical thought for a moment. And then just as quickly as it arose, it comes crashing down to the only question that really matters at this time: where is the bacon? Well, speck to be exact. After all, you’re here for South Tyrol’s Speckfest. The Alpine grandeur bounding all around is simply a pleasant garnish on top.

Welcome to Val di Funes

Sure, we admit your arrival at Speckfest may not unfold exactly as above, but we bet it will be pretty close. The event, held the first weekend of October every year, takes place in Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss) — a valley in the Dolomites possessing one of the most spectacular mountain vistas in the world.

Val di Funes is home to many legends. Two of the most visible are the Alpine churches of St. Johann and St. Magdalena. Their picturesque charm steals your breath as much as the riveting backdrop of the Odle peaks (Geisler in German) storming up behind them.

Making speck today continues following age-old principles of using a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air.

The third most prominent is Reinhold Messner — a giant in the world of mountaineering. Messner grew up in Val di Funes before going on to conquer the world’s most challenging mountain peaks including Mt. Everest.

That South Tyroleans choose to celebrate the culinary wonders of speck here, amid such storied mountain splendor, is no surprise.

A Little Bit About Speck

Before we carve into the details of Speckfest and why you should attend, here is a quick 101 on speck if you’re not familiar with this mountain smoked ham of South Tyrol.

Speck’s roots go as far back as at least the 13th century when Tyrolean royal records first made reference to the ham. Preserving meat back then to ensure a lasting food supply required salting and smoking.

South Tyroleans’ method of doing this evolved from blending traditional Northern European smoking methods with the outdoor curing practices of the Mediterranean. Making speck today continues following age-old principles of using “a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air”.

Speck and glass of Schiava — Speck: Mountain smoked ham born in the Alps of South Tyrol. Cherished the world over.

Prior to smoking, farmers add their individual touch to the specialty by rubbing a mix of various Alpine herbs on the pork. After roughly three weeks of smoking, the slab of ham is dried and hung to age for four to five months where it inhales deep breaths of fresh mountain air.

South Tyrol recognizes speck as a treasure worth protecting.

The result of this long process and tender care is ham unlike anything you tasted before. Speck is delicately sweet with pleasing hints of smoke and salt. We find the texture and flavor of speck far superior to prosciutto. And contrary to its southern cousin, it is easier to enjoy as it can be cut with a knife. Speck is savored on its own as a snack with wine and as a tasty addition to many traditional South Tyrolean dishes such as Speckknödelsuppe.

South Tyrol recognizes speck as a treasure worth protecting. To guarantee the authenticity and quality of speck, farmers must follow strict production regulations to earn the designation “Speck Alto Adige PGI”. This certifies the speck you purchase is the real deal.

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A Whole Lot About Speckfest

Speckfest is a two-day celebration that serves as a wonderful excuse to feast on speck, drink local beer and wine and carouse with fun-loving folks while experiencing genuine Alpine traditions, crafts, music, and other South Tyrolean specialties.

It takes place on a grassy slope in the village of St. Magdalena (Santa Maddalena) just below the hallowed steeple of the Church of St. Magdalena. The majestic Odle peaks remain your constant companion in the background.

The walk itself is a treat all on its own. You'll meander past cows grazing, brooks babbling and sun-steeped balconies drowning in bright red geraniums.

The festival begins Saturday by honoring South Tyrol’s rural heritage. You can witness traditional customs and practices of farmers and come away with a greater appreciation for why South Tyroleans make farm-to-table a way of life. While many of the festival’s hosts will be clad in dirndls and lederhosen, several guests around you will add to the folksy vibe by also sporting traditional Tyrolean garb.

Pasta with speck — Speckfest gives you a chance to try a variety of traditional dishes made with speck and found throughout South Tyrol.

In addition to feasting on various speck specialties such as Bauerngröstl mit Speckstreifen (a fried potato dish with speck) and Bandnudeln mit Wildragout und Speckstreifen (venison stew with pasta and speck), heart-warming bread baked in wood-fired ovens is available as well as delectable desserts like apple strudel and the ever popular Strauben, South Tyrol’s take on a funnel cake.

Of course, you don’t have to eat to have a good time at Speckfest. You can simply take a seat at one of long Oktoberfest-like tables and order a beer from Forst brewing company or a glass of South Tyrolean wine such as Sylvaner, St. Magdalener, Lagrein or Schiava.

Baking bread at Speckfest — Speck isn’t the only culinary joy at the festival. Massive wood-fired ovens bake bread that is equally delicious.

The Speckfest Queen becomes the star of the festival on Sunday.

A stage on the festival grounds hosts traditional dance demonstrations and revs up the crowd with musical acts that sing everything from folk to top 40 hits. Market stalls peppered throughout the festival allow you to not only sample and purchase speck, but also browse other regional craft items including wood carvings, Alpine herbs and clothing made from local sheep.

The Sunday of Speckfest is a special day. The festival crowns a new “Speckkönigin” or Speck Queen. She then follows a 20-year tradition of floating around the festival bringing good cheer and posing with festival-goers.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

How to Attend Speckfest

The first step to attending Speckfest is to purchase a dirndl or lederhosen. The second step is to work up a huge appetite. Okay, we’re kidding about the first step. Everyday attire is just fine for attending the festival.

According to the festival organizers, Speckfest occurs every year no matter the weather. Before going make sure to check the forecast. Mountain weather can be unruly especially beginning in the fall.

If you arrive by car, you can follow the signs to park in a large open field next to the festival. However, we recommend driving a bit further up the hill in St. Magdalena. Park in the public parking lot off of Via Geisler or along the side of the road.

Speckfest Attendees — A walk into the sunset. After you leave Speckfest, you will have a bag full delights and a heart overflowing with fond memories.

By doing this, you can make a quick trek to the onion-bulbed Church of St. Johann — a must-see historic sight in Val di Funes. After visiting the church, it is roughly a 15-minute walk to Speckfest. Simply follow the numerous signs in St. Magdalena.

The walk itself is a treat all on its own. You’ll meander past cows grazing, brooks babbling and sun-steeped balconies drowning in bright red geraniums. As you approach the festival grounds, the trail steepens. But don’t sweat it. All of the South Tyrolean goodness you’ll consume once on level ground makes the extra effort well worth it.

For the specific dates of Speckfest each year, visit the official festival website. The site also includes details on public transportation options, which the organizers highly promote to help execute an environmentally-friendly event from beginning to end.

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Mountains of Merry: The Boutique Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 18 Comments

If you’re visiting South Tyrol during the season of tinsel and tidings, chances are the traditional Christmas markets of Bolzano, Merano, Brixen and Sterzing are on your holiday wish list.

But as lovely as each of those markets are, it pays to also stroll the several boutique Christmas markets decorating South Tyrol. Taking time to casually drift through the “off-the-beaten” path Christmas markets imparts a gift of memories you will cherish long after the season ends.

In this post, we shine a bright holiday light on three boutique markets you should not miss.

Christmas by Candlelight at Lake Carezza

When a remote Alpine lake tells of a wizard long ago shattering a rainbow into its pristine waters, there may be no better place for an event as magical as a Christmas market. The Christmas Market at Lake Carezza takes place in the ancient forest surrounding its fabled shore. Stalls shaped like wooden lanterns line a trail that winds from one side of the lake to the other.

If you’re longing to experience a Christmas market within a winter wonderland, Lake Carezza can almost guarantee it. Thanks to the higher altitude it is one of the most picturesque markets.

The market sits within the Dolomites with the Latemar and Rosengarten massifs looming as backdrops. When we wandered the market, countless evergreen boughs held fresh puffs of snow and the mountains wore icy crowns.

For anyone worried about enduring a wintry chill, wood stoves dot the market offering comfort and the enchanting aroma of a crackling wood fire. Standing over flames in the mountains and listening to Christmas tunes from a trio of trumpets will leave you merry long after you have taken your last sip of Glühwein

When we discovered a Christmas market is held each year within its walls we turned several shades of merry.

Beyond enjoying freshly-baked sweets and delicious drinks sold at the stalls, you can also find a variety of handmade crafts that harken back to a simpler time. Visiting in the evening is especially enchanting as the market is lit by candle lanterns that cast a soft glow all along the trail.

When to Go

We timed our visit to the market when the Krampus was set loose upon the trail. This was our first encounter with the less-than-jolly beasts of lore and we were blown away by the experience.

If you can make it during the weekend that lures the Krampus out of their caves, we highly recommend it. To learn more about the Krampus tradition, be sure to read about our Krampus encounter in Margreid.

Krampus at Lago di Carezza Christmas Market — Candle lanterns guide you through the Christmas market at Lake Carezza…as well as the Krampus.

The Lake Carezza Christmas market occurs each weekend in December from 10 am to 8 pm. It is just 20 minutes from Bolzano by car. For specific details on the event go to the official website for Eggental Valley, which is where Lake Carezza is located.

A Christmas Forest at FORST Brewery

Since 1857, the Forst brewery in Algund has been spreading cheer well beyond the holiday season. One cannot trek in South Tyrol at any time of year without encountering an opportunity to relax with a refreshing Forst beer at a mountain hut. It’s an invitation we always accept.

But the brewery’s cheerful tidings rise to new heights each year with the opening of its enchanted Christmas Forest (Forster Weihnactswald / Foresta Natalizia). Dining and drinking at FORST is always a joy, however, our first visit to the Christmas Forest was one of the most relaxing evenings of the holidays.

The Christmas Forest at FORST conjures a cozy atmosphere that the traditional Christmas markets simply cannot match.

Out of all of the Christmas markets in South Tyrol, it is the one we would return to multiple times during the season. Admiring the tasteful holiday splendor FORST adorns throughout the brewery is worth the trip alone.

Forst Beer Lounge — The massive copper vats in the FORST Beer Lounge shimmer in the warm glow of Christmas. A perfect place to sit and relax with a pint.

The Christmas Forest at FORST conjures a cozy atmosphere that the traditional Christmas markets simply cannot match.

Aglow with crackling fires throughout, the Christmas Forest includes a spectacular ice-skating rink softly lit by sparkling lights, a bakery offering culinary wonders such as traditional South Tyrolean Zelten (Christmas Cake), specialty stalls brimming with local crafts and of course a festive beer garden where liters upon liters of FORST beer swirl with holiday magic beneath countless ornaments.

Each year, FORST also opens its gourmet restaurant called “Felsenkeller” for the duration of the market. Guests enjoy a magnificent feast in an ancient stone cellar furnished with exquisite decor including the largest Christmas ball in the world. The dining experience at Felsenkeller is what Christmas dreams are made of.

When to Go

The FORST Christmas Forest begins enchanting holiday revelers from November 20 through January 6. It is open from 10 am to midnight.

We recommend visiting the Christmas Forest after you have strolled the traditional Christmas market in Merano. FORST is located less than 10 minutes away.

In addition to the market festivities, guided tours of the brewery are also available each day. If you wish to experience the Felsenkeller gourmet restaurant, reservations must be made in advance at felsenkeller@forst.it.

For those not wanting to splurge on a gourmet feast, you can also dine in the brewery’s traditional restaurant, Bräustüberl Forst, which is delicious and adorned with ornate woodwork that fosters a heart-warming ambiance.

Medieval Merriment at Castle Tirol

What was it like to celebrate Christmas at a time when lands were ruled from thrones and candles were for more than setting the mood? The Christmas market at Castle Tirol gives revelers a charming glimpse.

Arguably the most celebrated castle in South Tyrol, Castle Tirol makes one’s jaw drop long before reaching its gates. The castle’s imposing presence atop a craggy glacial moraine in Dorf Tirol leaves us spellbound every time we lay eyes on it. Without a doubt, it is among the top medieval sights in all of Europe. Built in the 1100s, Castle Tirol was home to the Counts of Tyrol who wielded enough power to name an entire region.

We reached the castle by parking in a public lot located in Dorf Tirol. From here, we walked along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This paved path edges along a deep ravine.

Beyond are splendid views of tumbling vineyards and the Texel mountain group of the Oetztal Alps. In addition to fawning over Castle Tirol during the walk, plenty of vantage points reveal the stunning Brunnenburg Castle, which sits on a crag below the stronghold.

Castle Tirol Tunnel — How is this for old-world charm? A centuries-old tunnel leads to Castle Tirol’s Christmas market.

A 260-foot stone-walled tunnel carved out in the 17th century leads visitors through the final stretch to the castle. The entire trek takes roughly 20-30 minutes, but if you’re like us, you’ll linger longer. The path ascends easily, but if you prefer to roll your way to Castle Tirol, a horse-drawn carriage ride is available.

The market entices with food and refreshment stands within the castle’s courtyard. While we were there a gentleman roasted chestnuts on the spot and a brass band filled the air with notes of cheer. We, in turn, filled ourselves with cheer by sipping on mulled wine. Afterward, we wandered inside the castle to browse crafts and other South Tyrolean specialties for sales. A woodcarver wowed us with his artisanship on the lathe at one of the exhibits.

Upon finishing touring the market we ventured into the castle’s Hall of Knights. The portal leading to the chapel captivated us with remarkable Romanesque marble sculptures from the 12th century. Studying the faces and figures in the marble makes a trip to the castle worth it on their own.

Meandering around the chapel is a moving experience as the haunting expressions of faded frescoes follows your every step. A life-size crucifixion scene looms overhead. Erected in 1330, it reveals the emotions of Jesus, Mary and John with striking realism. On the wall across the chapel is the first known depiction of the South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

When to Go

The Castle Tirol Christmas market only occurs the first two weekends in December. It takes place from 10 am to 7 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Throughout each day different activities take place and a variety of music groups entertain in the courtyard.

For a full list of the special events scheduled be sure to review the event program by going to the official tourist site for Dorf Tirol.

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Experiencing the Magic of Christmas in Brixen

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

When a picturesque mountain town offers visitors more than 1,000 years of history, it’s difficult to imagine how it can become even more charming each year. But leave it to the passionate souls of Brixen (also known as Bressanone) to accomplish just that.

Each holiday season, this medieval gem near the Dolomites elevates enchantment through an authentic Christmas market paired with a one-of-a-kind light and music show within the 13th-century courtyard of the Hofburg, its famous Bishop’s Palace. Both are a must-experience for anyone relishing a feeling of awe that only Christmas morning can rival.

Merriment Beneath the Bell Towers’ Light

Brixen’s Christmas market sprinkles the season’s spirit on practically every cobblestone of the Piazza Duomo. Nearly 40 decorated stalls dot the piazza beneath the soaring bell towers of South Tyrol’s most cherished cathedral. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Cassiano was first erected in 980.

The stalls offer everything from handcrafted ornaments to scented delights to bread and Christmas cookies. Do not walk through this market without trying one of its gingerbread creations.

An antique carousel in the piazza’s center and an ice skating rink next to the Bishop’s Palace fills the atmosphere with spinning cheer. Thankfully, you can skip figuring out how to squeeze ice skates into your suitcase. They are available to rent for only a few euros.

Bressanone Christmas Market Stall — Thanks to an airline losing our luggage, we found the most comfortable socks in the world at the Brixen Christmas market!

Brixen Christmas market decor — Brixen’s Christmas market is a perfect place to discover the beautiful artisanship of South Tyroleans.

Beyond the dozens of stands selling South Tyrolean handmade goods, the market offers plenty of culinary specialties to tempt your eyes, nose and mouth. Perhaps the best bratwurst we ever had the pleasure of devouring came from Annemarie’s Standl. After finishing one we had to go back for another. We also nibbled on fresh krapfen, which was made on the spot by a lovely lady who was certainly someone’s Grandma.

The imaginative visual wizardry of NATALIE is utterly spellbinding.

Our night at the Brixen Christmas market was a bit on the nippy side so we warmed up with a couple of cups Glühwein…not that we needed an excuse to sip wine. If wine is not your go-to warm-up drink, you can also enjoy warm apple cider, which given the splendor of South Tyrol’s apples is practically as good as wine in our book. You can also cozy up to plenty of tables with a fire if the merry warmth found in a cup does not do the trick.

Making Krapfen at the Brixen Christmas Market — A lady rolling the Christmas spirit into tasty treats known as krapfen.

Watching Ancient Walls Burst into Life

After indulging in the charm of Brixen’s Christmas market, dazzle your eyes and ears by taking in the light and music show “NATALIE” at the Bishop’s Palace located on the south end of the Piazza Duomo. Created with the internationally acclaimed French light artists Spectaculaires – Allumeurs d’Images, the show whisks you away to a fairy tale world within the regal setting of the palace’s courtyard.

The imaginative visual wizardry of NATALIE is utterly spellbinding. The ancient walls surrounding you in the courtyard burst into life with a kaleidoscope of colors, imagery and song. Suddenly, you’re immersed in a fantasy where the palace lives and breathes.

An actress playing the role of Natalie interacts with the dancing facade singing through a story about a young maid awakening the soul of the Hofburg. She is commanded to throw a great celebration for the residents of Brixen — embarking on a magical adventure filled with a myriad of colorful characters.

Taking photos and video of the show is not only permitted, but encouraged. Below you’ll find a few of our favorite images from our evening with NATALIE.

Natalie Light Musical Show at Hofburg Palace — Taking in the light and music show, NATALIE, is a must when visiting South Tyrol during the Christmas season.

The story is told in a mix of German an Italian, but that did not detract from our enjoyment or ability to understand its essence. The show runs approximately 20 minutes. Since it takes place in the open-air of the courtyard it’s wise to bundle up.

This season marks the first year for NATALIE. In previous years, a light and music show called “Soliman’s Dream” was held in the courtyard of the palace. It creatively re-imagined the time when Brixen welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman required rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north.

Brixen welcomed the elephant with open arms. Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. The inn where Soliman stayed still stands and welcomes guests to this day. Appropriately named Hotel Elephant, a centuries-old fresco on the oldest part of the hotel’s facade continues to tell the tale of what was certainly an exotic and magical creature to the residents of Brixen at the time.

When to Visit Brixen’s Christmas Market

Brixen’s Christmas market begins in late November and ends the first week of January. Exact dates can change year to year so be sure to visit the official event schedule before planning a trip. On most days the market opens at 10 am and closes at 7-7:30 pm. The food stands are open an hour longer to ensure enough good cheer is spread to each visitor.

NATALIE takes place through the duration of the Christmas market. Shows occur three a day at 5:30 pm, 6:30 pm and 7:30 pm (except December 24th-25th). Prices vary depending on the day, but are very reasonable at € 7-€10 for adults and € 1-€6 for children.

You could easily spend a full day exploring in and around Brixen. Any lover of history, architecture, art and wine would be a fool not to. But if you’re looking to just enjoy the Brixen Christmas market and NATALIE, then we recommend arriving two hours before your show.

Dessert at Restaurant Fink — We attempted to capture a shot of our dessert at Restaurant Fink prior to diving in, but it evaded us. As we learned, sweets at this South Tyrolean treasure have a tendency to swiftly disappear.

Restaurant Fink is a delightful place to eat either before or after the show if you still have room after wandering the Christmas Market. Their dessert dishes are divine. The restaurant is conveniently located in Brixen’s old town. It is one of only 25 establishments in South Tyrol to earn the official designation “Südtiroler Gasthaus”. This means Restaurant Fink meets the rigid standards necessary to ensure guests an authentic South Tyrolean dining experience.

Getting to Brixen – Let Enchantment be Your Guide

Getting to Brixen is easy. It is located right off Autostrada A22 and is just 30 minutes northeast of Bolzano. We had no problems finding parking near the town center. Winding through its cobblestone alleys to the Piazza Duomo is a delight all by itself.

Concerned about driving? Don’t be. Anyone with common sense and a little pre-trip prep can handle it. Check out our post on driving in Italy for practical tips.

Brixen beams with charm no matter the season. But the holidays are an especially enchanting time in this corner of South Tyrol. Wandering the town’s Christmas market offers an endless assortment of enticing traditional South Tyrolean specialties and handmade creations. You’ll come away in awe at the talented craftsmanship of artisans from the region. And not to mention no shortage of treasured gifts for the loved ones in your life.

South Tyrol Festivals & Events

Merano Christmas Market

Sterzing Christmas Market

Brixen Christmas Market

Bolzano Christmas Market

How to Visit Italy’s Christmas Markets

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The Beginnings of Törggelen

A Törggelen-Themed Hike to Dreikirchen

Visiting the Dreikirchen

How to Find Törggelen Farmhouses & Taverns

Villanders

Barbian

Chiusa

Feldthurns

Additional Törggelen Hikes

ADD TÖRGGELEN TO YOUR TRAVEL WISHLIST

Delight Yourself in Brixen

Quality Fresh from the Mountain to the Oven

How to Attend the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

Welcome to Val di Funes

A Little Bit About Speck

A Whole Lot About Speckfest

How to Attend Speckfest

SAVE SPECKFEST TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST

Christmas by Candlelight at Lake Carezza

When to Go

A Christmas Forest at FORST Brewery

When to Go

Medieval Merriment at Castle Tirol

When to Go

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Merriment Beneath the Bell Towers’ Light

Watching Ancient Walls Burst into Life

When to Visit Brixen’s Christmas Market

Getting to Brixen – Let Enchantment be Your Guide

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