South Tyrol Myths & Legends

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon

Updated: July 13, 2022

The sunken bell tower of Curon casts a ghostly spell over the waters of Lago di Resia. It seems to be looking at you as much as you are looking at it. In this post, we share the mystery behind this 14th-century enigma and how you can experience her eerie enchantment.

More than 60,000 churches adorn Italy. Many take your breath away with their grand beauty while others arouse a sigh, kindled by their pastoral charm. But none captivate you like the one spiring from the depths of a lake in South Tyrol.

The partially submerged church tower of Curon (commonly referred to as the Campanile di Curon) stands in stark contrast to the polished jade of Lago di Resia. The largest lake in South Tyrol, Lago di Resia (also known as Reschensee, Reschen Lake and Lake Resia) lies in the mountain-rimmed region of Val Venosta (Vinschgau) near the border of Switzerland and Austria.

When admiring the tower from the shore one can’t help but wonder what lies beneath. The history books will tell you: the village of Curon (Graun). A local, on the other hand, will tell you: heartache.

All in the Name Of…

You might think the sunken bell tower of Curon is the result of some natural calamity. Perhaps a Pompeii-like tragedy centuries ago. But in actuality, the tower is only underwater in the name of modern-day “progress”.

In 1950, despite furious resistance from residents and even a plea from the Pope, governmental authorities allowed the Montecatini energy company to flood the valley to merge two natural lakes, Mittersee and Reschensse, into one massive artificial lake, which would support a hydroelectric plant.

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 2 — Curon (Graun) and the bell tower of St. Catherine Church as it was in the late 1800s. The church was founded in 1357.

However, the two smaller lakes were not the project’s only flood victims. The picturesque villages of Curon, Arlung, Piz, Gorf, Stockerhofe and parts of Reschen along with nearly 1,300 acres of fertile farmland were swallowed up by the reservoir. The livelihoods of around 1,000 villagers were forever changed and 163 homes along with 120 farms disappeared beneath the waves.

Sadder still, the government’s compensation for such immense loss was paltry. Families were forced to flee the land of their ancestors and resettle on the slope of Klopaierspitze, a mountain above Curon, or make a home elsewhere in South Tyrol and beyond.

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The Desolation of Curon

Prior to the flooding, the Montecatini energy company commissioned explosives to be set off in the villages to demolish the homes, storefronts, inns and taverns, as well as the historic Church of St. Catherine in the heart of Curon. However, not all of it was sentenced to rubble. The Romanesque bell tower of the church dates to the 14th century, therefore, it was of too much historical value to destroy.

Before the demolition of Curon, residents were tasked with the grim burden of relocating their deceased loved ones from the cemetery of St. Catherine’s to a cemetery by the Church of St. Anna, located on a hill above the doomed village. On Sunday, July 16 at 8:00 p.m. the silvery voice of St. Catherine was heard for the last time. Her bells rang for half an hour then fell silent. They were removed from the tower before the blasts began on July 23.

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 3 — All of Curon except its 14th-century Romanesque bell tower were destroyed prior to the flooding.

Those who heard the bell tower ring out Curon’s farewell say it was unforgettable. Also, unforgettable was watching the flood waters advance day by day into the valley — the creeping death of countless dreams and a way of life held dear. The memory haunts many to this day.

When the waters stopped rising, newly born Lago di Resia held 31.7 billion gallons of fresh water or 120 million cubic meters. It stretched nearly four miles (9 km) transforming the appearance of the valley from end to end. The mighty breath of Mt. Ortler no longer made the face of the land sway with hues of green and gold, but ripple a sky blue. And the bell tower of Curon no longer stood a holy icon of a beloved village, but as a stark stone testament to the price of heartless progress.

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The Legend of the Curon Bell Tower

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 4 — Will the bells toll for you?

In a land where lore and legends are as lavish as the snow-capped peaks, it’s no surprise the heartbreaking fate of Curon would spawn its own folktale.

According to legend, in the bleakness of winter, when the night winds of Ortler howl like a raving pack of wolves, one can hear the bells ringing in the tower. Some say if you are one of the unlucky souls to catch a whisper of the tower tolling, death soon follows. But rest easy, there is not an official record of anyone dying after hearing the bells.

As you may be aware, Lago di Resia and its sunken bell tower have gained renewed interest due to the supernatural series “Curon” on Netflix. Much of the series was filmed in and around Curon and it tells the chilling tale of a mother originally from Curon who disappears after returning to the town with her two children. The legend of the Curon bell tower supposedly inspired the writers of the series.

How to Visit Lago di Resia & the Sunken Bell Tower oF Curon

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 5 — Amazing hikes surround Lago di Resia.

Given the striking sight of the Curon bell tower standing stoic amid a sea of green and blue, the attraction lands on many travelers’ bucket lists. Several come to Lago di Resia simply to admire it from the shore, snap a selfie and leave. That is a mistake.

Lago di Resia and this corner of Val Venosta offer so much more to see. The ancient imperial road called Via Claudia Augusta still runs through the region after all. It was built nearly 2,000 years ago by the Romans.

Our advice is to spend at least a couple of nights in the area to enjoy a bit of the natural and historic splendor all around. If you visit in the summer and fall, you can take advantage of incredible hiking and biking opportunities high above the lake where you can soak in some of the best views in South Tyrol.

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 6 — A gorgeous promenade loops around Lago di Resia.

A 9-mile trail (15 km) also circles the lake that we recommend walking in the morning or early evening. The stroll enthralls by pairing mountain views with the shimmer of Lago di Resia.

Lago di Resia itself offers a bounty of recreational activities. You can rent kayaks and pedal boats to float about the lake or try mastering the mountain winds by kitesurfing and windsurfing.

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 7 — The winds of King Ortler, South Tyrol’s tallest mountain, make Lago di Resia a rippling playground for kite and wind surfers.

If you visit Lago di Resia in the winter, you can actually walk across the frozen lake to the Curon bell tower. An even more delightful way to reach the tower is on ice skates, which can be rented nearby. If ice skating is too tame for your tastes, consider hitting the groomed slopes above the lake. Several ski resorts are located along the Reschen Pass offering an abundance of downhill skiing and snowboarding opportunities.

We recently stayed at the Chalet am Reschensee — an authentic Tyrolean hunting lodge hidden in a forest above Lago di Resia. Its location was perfect for exploring the area and its cozy warm ambiance charmed our lederhosen right off.

For those that do not have the time to spend more than a day at Lago di Resia, we recommend arriving early and parking at the large lot located directly across from the bell tower (navigate to Campanile di Curon Venosta Vecchia). There is no fee to park.

Be sure to trek up the nearby hill to the Church of St. Anna where you can enjoy a sweeping panorama of the lake and tower. If you decide to walk around Lago di Resia, plan on 4 hours. We also recommend bringing a light jacket as it can get chilly if the alpine winds are roaring over the water.

If you would like to explore the history of the submerged village of Curon, consider visiting the Alta Val Venosta Museum in the re-established village located upslope from the bell tower.

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Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches’ Mountain

Updated: August 21, 2022

One does not simply walk in the Dolomites… without knowing its spine-chilling folklore. In this post, we share a bit of South Tyrol’s witching past and how to visit the fabled sights of “Witches’ Mountain”.

Autumn in South Tyrol. The ravishing beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it is 900 years ago. The Dark Ages of Europe. When the death rattle of summer summoned dread — awakening one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing light meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves fleeting in the wind, but instead the stalking of something vile and wicked. A shadow snaking along the ground, no longer the lurch of a crooked ash, but a grim evil coveting your flesh and bone.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol, such haunting mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous outpost of northern Italy is a land once shackled by superstition. Nightmares manifested into reality when the sun went down. And witchcraft was suspected to be widespread.

When you hike here, especially in the fall, it is easy to see how such deep-seated folkloric beliefs arose. The mountains seem to move with the mist. And when the peaks do finally reveal themselves, their storm-cursed faces growl like godforsaken gravestones of the unloved dead.

The Mountain Witches of Alpe di Siusi

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 9

A corner of the Dolomites with tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet unsettling scene for any trekker.

All who hike here should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the hulking massif. According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday on Schlern where they performed black magic rituals and sacrifices in communion with the Devil. Carbonized remains found on the mountain give credence to the ghoulish practice.

The Schlern witches were also thought to spawn savage storms that would descend like packs of wolves from the mountain’s horned peaks.

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 10 — Goats gather beneath the Witches’ Mountain (also known as Schlern / Sciliar).

In fact, one legend tells of a bull grazing the rolling hills near the village of Seis, just below the mountain and discovering a bell in the earth. The villagers hung the mysterious bell in the bulbous spire of the ancient St. Valentin Chapel. When storms reigned down, the residents would fervently ring the bell to break the witches’ spell.

Hikers can visit a revered site of the witches known as the “Witches’ Benches” (Hexenbänke in German) located on Mount Bullaccia (Puflatsch). Bullaccia lies to the north of Schlern mountain offering jaw-dropping views of Alpe di Siusi and beyond.

The Witches’ Benches grip the imagination. They are contorted rock formations resembling places for sitting. Upon seeing them, you can find yourself believing they were once the sacred seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if the stone thrones are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever marks the mountainside.

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A Witch’s Curse

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 11

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the pasture. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky.

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern is Prösels Castle. Built more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold holds a horrid history.

Kate admiring the Prosels Castle — Prösels Castle was once the site of witch trials in South Tyrol.

In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed. Their crime? Stealing babies and riding upon brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the Devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake.

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays.

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Have Broom Will Travel

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 12

Getting to Alpe di Siusi is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less devilish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

If you want to experience South Tyrol’s witch folklore firsthand, we recommend departing from Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German). From intricate witch wood carvings to themed shops and restaurants as well as the occasional stray black cat, witchiness abounds from its centuries-old cobblestones.

Hexenkeller Restaurant in Castelrotto — Restaurants such as Hexenkeller and Schlernhex in Castelrotto pay tribute to the enchanting folklore of the Dolomites.

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although the plateau is accessible year-round.

The witching hours of October make a tempting time to explore how land and legend weave together to create folklore that stirs one’s darkest fears. The cable cars still carry adventurers to the top through much of October if the weather allows it.

Another good time to seek out witches on Alpe di Siusi is on Walpurgis Night, which takes place every May 1st. According to locals, Walpurgis Night is when witches, wizards and other wicked spirits meet on Schlern to celebrate the “Witches Sabbath”.

The celebration is said to involve dancing, drinking and feasting until dawn, as well as a guest appearance by the Devil himself in the form of a goat.

For centuries, peasants took measures to protect their cattle on Walpurgis Night. They locked and sealed stable doors with three crosses. In addition, sprigs of ash, hawthorn, juniper, and elder, once sacred to the pagan gods, were used to guard against evil.

However, the night was not filled only with worry. The locals also saw it as a time of omen. Specifically, if it rained. An old saying goes: “On Walpurgis Night rain. Makes good crops of autumn grain.”

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How to Reach the Witches’ Benches

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 13

Once you are on the Alpe di Siusi, the Witches’ Benches are about a 1-2 hour hike depending on which cable car you choose.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk. It menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the alp.

From Castelrotto, take the Marizen Chairlift to the Marizen Alp. Then follow trail no. 9 through the forestland of Tiosels until you come to trail no. 8, which leads to the right up to Alpe di Siusi.

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 14 — The Witches’ Chairs above Castelrotto make another hex-worthy trek through dense forests.

On Alpe di Siusi, trail no. 8 will intersect with trail no. 14. Follow it to the left and stay on it until reaching the Witches’ Benches.

On your trek back to Castelrotto, you may wish to stay on trail no. 8 descending further down the slope to another mysterious stone formation shrouded in legend: The Witches’ Chairs (Hexenstühle).

Two stones appear as literally chairs facing the valley. Like the Witches’ Benches, it is not known if these are man-made or oddities of nature.

To return to Castelrotto from the Witches’ Chairs, stay on trail no. 8 until you can take a left on trail no. 7 into town. The hike back is less than an hour.

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South Tyrol Casts a Spell

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that touches your soul.

It’s a spell you’ll undoubtedly want to share with others, but keep in mind, such bewitching autumn hexes are best left for some to discover on their own. All alone. In the dead of night. When churchyards yawn and hell itself breathes out contagion to this world…

Save the Witches’ Mountain

Guide to Witches' Mountain in the Dolomites

Walther von der Vogelweide: Warrior Poet of South Tyrol

Updated: December 18, 2021

Is the pen mightier than the sword? Through the eyes of Walther von der Vogelweide it certainly is.

Widely thought to have been born in South Tyrol (possibly in the villages of Lajen or Waidbruck just east of South Tyrol’s capital, Bolzano) in 1170, Walther von der Vogelweide is regarded as the greatest Minnesinger of all time.

What is a Minnesinger you ask? Think of them as the Jim Morrisons of medieval times. Minnesingers were musically poetic souls from Germanic lands of Europe akin to the ancient Troubadours of France. Together, they arose from the intellectual light born out of the Dark Ages in the 12th and 13th centuries. The sudden advent of their songs and poetry is one of the most remarkable events in the history of music and literature.

Walther von der Vogelweide: Warrior Poet of South Tyrol 16

Love The Beatles, U2, The Foo Fighters or any other musical act of modern times? Thank the Minnesingers and Troubadours of time long past. Without their ingenious mingling of word and melody with injections of a rebel yell, songs we love to belt out in the shower today would not exist.

So you see, all forms of modern music — including Rock & Roll— are in a way rooted in South Tyrol. Fitting really. The jarring jagged mountain peaks of this region in northern Italy seem almost like raised fists in the air.

Read on to learn more about this Rock & Roll rebel of the Middle Ages that we owe so much to.

Poets in Flight

The title Minnesinger is derived from the old world word “Minne” — signifying love, which was the usual subject they were prone to sing while drawing a bow across the strings of a viol. But Minnesingers also wrote galant songs capturing the spirit of knights roving about in search of chivalrous adventure. Songs no doubt well suited to the age of the Crusades — when the world rang with the renown of noble names and knightly deeds.

The face of Walther reveals a serene attitude and dignified expression that suits a long, kingly cloak falling gracefully off his shoulders. It is quite clear he was light years better looking than Mick Jagger.

Walther’s name —Walther of the Bird Meadow— supposedly stems from his love of nature and his fondness for song birds. That certainly seems to be likely as many of his lyrics accentuate adulation for the winged wonders such as in “When From The Sod The Flow’Rets Spring”:

When from the sod the flow’rets spring,
And smile to meet the sun’s bright ray,
When birds their sweetest carols sing
In all them morning pride of May,
What lovelier than the prospect there?
Can earth boast any thing more fair?
To me it seems an almost heaven,
So beauteous to my eyes that vision bright is given.

Do those lines remind you of any particular modern Rock & Roll classic? They should. Recall Robert Plant’s infectious crooning in Led Zeppelin’s biggest hit, “Stairway to Heaven”:

There’s a sign on the wall
But she wants to be sure
‘Cause you know sometimes words have two meanings
In a tree by the brook
There’s a songbird who sings
Sometimes all of our thoughts are misgiving

Where Song Became Stone

South Tyroleans hold Walther von der Vogelweide in such high regard that in 1889 the city of Bolzano not only named its main square the “Waltherplatz” but also embellished it with a remarkable fountain, adorned by a noble statue of the tender-hearted bard sculpted in exceptional detail from the region’s renowned Lasser marble.

Walther Square in Bolzano, the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide — Walther Square in Bolzano and the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide.

The face of Walther reveals a serene attitude and dignified expression that suits a long, kingly cloak falling gracefully off his shoulders. It is quite clear he was light years better looking than Mick Jagger. His hands hold a viol while below him is a marbled cage enshrining a beloved songbird. Further down two lions stoutly sit upright bearing shields while opposite regal swans curve their snowy necks as if to drink the Alpine water in the basin.

Travelers to Bolzano will find they are not the only ones to parade around the square admiring Walther’s statue. Certainly not by coincidence, birds flutter about his stately form and delight their feathers by bathing in the fountain. The lasting inﬂuence this legend has imparted on South Tyrol and our feathered friends is endearing to witness.

Melodies on Wings Without Fail

Walther appears to have led the typical life of a Minnesinger, roaming from royal court to royal court, and castle to castle, stirring hearts and bringing cheer with his songs. His compositions were not only powerful in sentiment but showed ever delicate and elaborate poetic meter. Out of his 188 poems, at least half are written in unique measures, and all are expressed in forms invented by himself. Not even the band Rush could conjure up such musical progressiveness.

Like any good rock star, Walther also used the infection of melody to rebel against religious authority and the status quo of the time. Many of his songs speak out against the long arm of the papacy.

Walther von der Vogelweide: Warrior Poet of South Tyrol 17

Much of Walther’s artistic glory came at the medieval court of Vienna. He made several trips and actively influenced the royals to partake in crusades, including Frederick II’s crusade of 1228 where he may have journeyed from Vienna with the holy army to at least his native South Tyrol.

Walther’s spirit took flight in 1230 and he was buried in Würzburg in the Franconia region of Germany. His love for birds was such that in his will he bequeathed a sum of money to furnish food and water daily to the feathered minstrels so that the space above his cloistered grave might always be melodious with the “poets of the air.”

The Path Where Walther Once Roamed

Beyond relaxing in the Waltherplatz in Bolzano, travelers interested in more encounters with the magic of Walther von der Vogelweide can partake in a scenic hike in Lajen that includes strolling sun-kissed slopes to the Vogelweider Farm, purportedly the birthplace of Walther.

Walther von der Vogelweide: Warrior Poet of South Tyrol 18

Enjoying a lovely view of Lajen in South Tyrol — Enjoying a stunning view of one of South Tyrol’s true Alpine gems – Lajen.

The 3-hour trek is enjoyable for all ages and skill levels, and the bird songs you’ll hear while walking where Walther once stepped makes it easy to see why he expressed a life-long fondness for the poets in flight.

Such a talent and so impactful a legend was Walther von der Vogelweide that he could not help but echo across time and ocean to touch the heart of the great American poet, Longfellow. In the late 1800s, Longfellow penned an ode paying respect to Walther of the Bird Meadow. Here are a few lines:

Then in vain, with cries discordant,
Clamorous round the Gothic spire,
Screamed the feathered Minnesingers
For the children of the choir.

Time has long effaced the inscriptions
On the cloister’s funeral stones,
And tradition only tells us
Where repose the poet’s bones.

But around the vast cathedral,
By sweet echoes multiplied,
Still the birds repeat the legend,
And the name of Vogelweide.

Does Vogelweide Deserve a Spot in the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame?

Of course, we only ask this question in jest. The obvious answer is no. No one will ever crank up a Vogelweide tune at their next house party. But it’s fun to peer way back into history to see how the roots of modern music began to form. Who knows? Without the rebellious vibe of Vogelweide, perhaps Elvis’s “shocking” dance moves in the 1950s would have never seen the light of the stage and The Beatles would forever have short hair and “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds” would have been really about well…diamonds.