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South Tyrol Myths & Legends

Walther von der Vogelweide: Warrior Poet of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 20 Comments

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Is the pen mightier than the sword? Through the eyes of Walther von der Vogelweide it certainly is.

Widely thought to have been born in South Tyrol (possibly in the villages of Lajen or Waidbruck just east of South Tyrol’s capital, Bolzano) in 1170, Walther von der Vogelweide is the greatest Minnesinger of all time.

What is a Minnesinger you ask? Think of them as the Jim Morrisons of medieval times. Minnesingers were musically poetic souls from Germanic lands of Europe akin to the ancient Troubadours of France. Together, they arose from the intellectual light born out of the Dark Ages in the 12th and 13th centuries. The sudden advent of their songs and poetry is one of the most remarkable events in the history of music and literature.

Love The Beatles, U2, The Foo Fighters or any other musical act of modern times? Thank the Minnesingers and Troubadours of time long past. Without their ingenious mingling of word and melody with injections of a rebel yell, songs we love to belt out in the shower today would not exist.

So you see, all forms of modern music — including Rock & Roll— are in a way rooted in South Tyrol. Fitting really. The jarring jagged mountain peaks of this region in northern Italy seem almost like raised fists in the air.

Read on to learn more about this Rock & Roll rebel of the Middle Ages that we owe so much to.

Poets in Flight

The title Minnesinger is derived from the old world word “Minne” — signifying love, which was the usual subject they were prone to sing while drawing a bow across the strings of a viol. But Minnesingers also wrote galant songs capturing the spirit of knights roving about in search of chivalrous adventure. Songs no doubt well suited to the age of the Crusades — when the world rang with the renown of noble names and knightly deeds.

The face of Walther reveals a serene attitude and dignified expression that suits a long, kingly cloak falling gracefully off his shoulders. It is quite clear he was light years better looking than Mick Jagger.

Walther’s name —Walther of the Bird Meadow— supposedly stems from his love of nature and his fondness for song birds. That certainly seems to be likely as many of his lyrics accentuate adulation for the winged wonders such as in “When From The Sod The Flow’Rets Spring”:

When from the sod the flow’rets spring,
And smile to meet the sun’s bright ray,
When birds their sweetest carols sing
In all them morning pride of May,
What lovelier than the prospect there?
Can earth boast any thing more fair?
To me it seems an almost heaven,
So beauteous to my eyes that vision bright is given.

Do those lines remind you of any particular modern Rock & Roll classic? They should. Recall Robert Plant’s infectious crooning in Led Zeppelin’s biggest hit, “Stairway to Heaven”:

There’s a sign on the wall
But she wants to be sure
‘Cause you know sometimes words have two meanings
In a tree by the brook
There’s a songbird who sings
Sometimes all of our thoughts are misgiving

Where Song Became Stone

South Tyroleans hold Walther von der Vogelweide in such high regard that in 1889 the city of Bolzano not only named its main square the “Waltherplatz” but also embellished it with a remarkable fountain, adorned by a noble statue of the tender-hearted bard sculpted in exceptional detail from the region’s renowned Lasser marble.

Walther Square in Bolzano, the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide
Walther Square in Bolzano and the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide.

The face of Walther reveals a serene attitude and dignified expression that suits a long, kingly cloak falling gracefully off his shoulders. It is quite clear he was light years better looking than Mick Jagger. His hands hold a viol while below him is a marbled cage enshrining a beloved songbird. Further down two lions stoutly sit upright bearing shields while opposite regal swans curve their snowy necks as if to drink the Alpine water in the basin. 

Travelers to Bolzano will find they are not the only ones to parade around the square admiring Walther’s statue. Certainly not by coincidence, birds flutter about his stately form and delight their feathers by bathing in the fountain. The lasting influence this legend has imparted on South Tyrol and our feathered friends is endearing to witness.

Melodies on Wings Without Fail

Walther appears to have led the typical life of a Minnesinger, roaming from royal court to royal court, and castle to castle, stirring hearts and bringing cheer with his songs. His compositions were not only powerful in sentiment but showed ever delicate and elaborate poetic meter. Out of his 188 poems, at least half are written in unique measures, and all are expressed in forms invented by himself. Not even the band Rush could conjure up such musical progressiveness.

Like any good rock star, Walther also used the infection of melody to rebel against religious authority and the status quo of the time. Many of his songs speak out against the long arm of the papacy.

Much of Walther’s artistic glory came at the medieval court of Vienna. He made several trips and actively influenced the royals to partake in crusades, including Frederick II’s crusade of 1228 where he may have journeyed from Vienna with the holy army to at least his native South Tyrol. 

Walther’s spirit took flight in 1230 and he was buried in Würzburg in the Franconia region of Germany. His love for birds was such that in his will he bequeathed a sum of money to furnish food and water daily to the feathered minstrels so that the space above his cloistered grave might always be melodious with the “poets of the air.” 

The Path Where Walther Once Roamed

Beyond relaxing in the Waltherplatz in Bolzano, travelers interested in more encounters with the magic of Walther von der Vogelweide can partake in a scenic hike in Lajen that includes strolling sun-kissed slopes to the Vogelweider Farm, purportedly the birthplace of Walther.

Enjoying a lovely view of Lajen in South Tyrol
Enjoying a stunning view of one of South Tyrol’s true Alpine gems – Lajen.

The 3-hour trek is enjoyable for all ages and skill levels, and the bird songs you’ll hear while walking where Walther once stepped makes it easy to see why he expressed a life-long fondness for the poets in flight.

Such a talent and so impactful a legend was Walther von der Vogelweide that he could not help but echo across time and ocean to touch the heart of the great American poet, Longfellow. In the late 1800s, Longfellow penned an ode paying respect to Walther of the Bird Meadow. Here are a few lines:

Then in vain, with cries discordant,
Clamorous round the Gothic spire,
Screamed the feathered Minnesingers
For the children of the choir. 

Time has long effaced the inscriptions
On the cloister’s funeral stones,
And tradition only tells us
Where repose the poet’s bones. 

But around the vast cathedral,
By sweet echoes multiplied,
Still the birds repeat the legend,
And the name of Vogelweide.

Does Vogelweide Deserve a Spot in the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame?

Of course, we only ask this question in jest. The obvious answer is no. No one will ever crank up a Vogelweide tune at their next house party. But it’s fun to peer way back into history to see how the roots of modern music began to form. Who knows? Without the rebellious vibe of Vogelweide, perhaps Elvis’s “shocking” dance moves in the 1950s would have never seen the light of the stage and The Beatles would forever have short hair and “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds” would have been really about well…diamonds.

Filed Under: South Tyrol Myths & Legends

Treks in the Dolomites – Hiking Where Witches Roam

By Kate & Vin 29 Comments

Sciliar Witches
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Autumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.

Hiking Trail on Alpe di Siusi
The mountains of Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm) are shrouded in legends and bloodcurdling tales.

With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.

The Witches of Schlern Mountain

A corner of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi  – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet brooding scene for any trekker.

But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.

He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil.

According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday by the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms from Schlern’s fang-toothed peaks. 

Schlern Moutain
Storm clouds gather around the Witches’ Mountain – Schlern / Sciliar.

In fact, one legend tells of a bull grazing the rolling hills near the village of Seis, just below the massif, and discovering a bell in the earth. The villagers hung the mysterious bell in the bulbous spire of the ancient St. Valentin Chapel. When storms reigned down, the residents would fervently ring the bell to break the witches’ spell.

Schlern sunset
The setting sun burns the October sky above the peaks of Schlern.

Hikers can visit a revered site of the witches known as the “Witches’ Benches” (Hexenbänke in German) located on Mount Bullaccia (Puflatsch). Bullaccia haunts to the north of Schlern mountain offering some of most jaw-dropping views of Alpe di Siusi and beyond.

The Witches Benches captivate the imagination. They are rock formations resembling spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if the stone thrones are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.

A Witch’s Curse

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky. 

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Witches of the Dolomites

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history.

Schlern menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed. Their crime? Stealing babies and riding upon brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the Devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake. 

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays. 

Prösels Castle
Prösels Castle was once the site of witch trials in South Tyrol.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:  The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

Have Broom Will Travel

Getting to Alpe di Siusi is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

If you want to experience South Tyrol’s witch folklore firsthand, we recommend departing from Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German). From intricate witch wood carvings to themed shops and restaurants as well as the occasional stray black cat, witches abound from its centuries-old cobblestones. 

Hexenkeller Restaurant in Castelrotto
Restaurants such as the Hexenkeller in Castelrotto pay tribute to the enchanting folklore of the Dolomites.

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although the plateau is accessible year-round.

The witching hours of October make a tempting time to explore how land and legend weave together to create folklore that stirs one’s darkest fears. The cable cars still carry adventurers to the top through much of October if the weather allows it.

Another good time to seek out witches on Alpe di Siusi is on Walpurgis Night, which takes place every May 1st. According to locals, Walpurgis Night is when witches, wizards and other wicked spirits and ghouls meet on Schlern to celebrate the “Witches Sabbath”.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk.

The celebration is said to involve dancing, drinking and feasting until dawn, as well as a guest appearance by the Devil himself in the form of a goat.

For centuries, peasants took measures to protect their cattle on Walpurgis Night. They locked and sealed stable doors with three crosses. In addition, sprigs of ash, hawthorn, juniper, and elder, once sacred to the pagan gods, were used to guard against evil.

However, the night was not filled only with dread. The locals also saw it as a time of omen. Specifically, if it rained. An old saying goes: “On Walpurgis Night rain. Makes good crops of autumn grain,”

How to Reach the Witches’ Benches

witches benches hexenbänke

Once you are on the Alpe di Siusi, the Witches’ Benches are about a 1-2 hour hike depending on which cable car you choose.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk. It menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land. 

  • From Castelrotto, take the Marizen Chairlift to the Marizen Alp. Then follow trail no. 9 through the forestland of Tiosels until you come to trail no. 8, which leads to the right up to Alpe di Siusi.
  • On Alpe di Siusi, trail no. 8 will intersect with trail no. 14. Follow it to the left and stay on it until reaching the Witches’ Benches.
Witches Chairs in Castelrotto
The Witches’ Chairs above Castelrotto make another hex-worthy trek through dense forests.

On your trek back to Castelrotto, you may wish to stay on trail no. 8 descending further down the slope to another mysterious stone formation shrouded in legend: The Witches’ Chairs (Hexenstühle).

Two stones appear as literally chairs facing the valley. Like the Witches’ Benches, it is not known if these are man-made or oddities of nature.

To return to Castlerotto from the Witches’ Chairs, stay on trail no. 8 until you can take a left on trail no. 7 into town.  The hike back is less than an hour. 

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

South Tyrol Casts a Spell

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart.

Its a spell you’ll undoubtedly want to share with others, but sometimes such bewitching autumn hexes are best left for others to discover on their own.

As in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury: “Beware the autumn people…They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles, breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.

SAVE THE WITCHES’ BENCHES TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST!

Witches Hiking Trails in the Dolomites

Filed Under: Get to Know South Tyrol, South Tyrol Myths & Legends, South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure Tagged With: Alpe di Siuis, Dolomites, Seiser Alm, South Tyrol Hikes, South Tyrol Historic Sights

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