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Törggelen

Pfefferlechner: Tapping into South Tyrol’s Tavern Culture

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Pfefferlechner Biergarten
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Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery is far more than a charming place to eat and drink — it is a culturally engaging experience you will cherish. Find out why an evening here should be on your South Tyrol trip itinerary.

WHEN IT COMES to a night out, nothing is more quintessentially South Tyrolean than an evening of revelry paired with hearty fare and delicious drink at a rustic tavern. Such fire-lit merriment has tamed appetites and kindled bellows of good cheer over the Alps for centuries.

Fortunately, as we discovered, you do not have to be a local to partake in these festive affairs. Establishments like the Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery (Buschenschank & Hausbrauerei) in the mountainside hamlet of Lana light the torch of South Tyrol’s tavern culture for all.

Serenely Rustic

Visiting Pfefferlechner is a mouthwatering journey to a simpler time. Amid the age-scorned stone walls of a farm dating to 1279, the tavern and brewery nestles you in a rustic setting that is a welcomed refuge from urbanized life.

Pfefferlechner in Lana
Pfefferlechner Courtyard
Pfefferlechner Buschenschank
Pfefferlechner Sign
Pfefferlechner Stable Window
Pfefferlechner Torggelen
Pfefferlechner Courtyard Lanterns
Pfefferlechner Restaurant
Pfefferlechner Beer Garden

How rustic, might you ask? Well, in one of the tavern’s main stuben, you can dine with a window view to a stable where a pony or a goat may eye your appetizers or maybe it’s your beer?

A family affair — the Laimers’ have operated Pfefferlechner for more than 40 years.

But, if dining under the curious gaze of farm animals is not your idea of farm-to-table, not to worry. Pfefferlechner also offers lovely seating in many other nature-inspired nooks including a cozy courtyard canopied by gnarls of vines and a lively beer garden framed by tall, leafy lime trees.

No matter where you choose to unwind, Pfefferlechner’s comfy vibe instills a sense of intimacy. From your first visit, you will adore its inviting rooms and patios.

This mastery in the art of ambiance is owed to the Laimer family. Their passion for treating guests to a heart-warming culinary experience has vaulted Pfefferlechner to a must-dine landmark in South Tyrol.

In fact, Pfefferlechner was recently awarded the 2020 Travelers’ Choice Award from TripAdvisor. This coveted award spotlights the very best destinations based on user reviews and ratings.

Refreshment for the Soul

A seasonal favorite of Pfefferlechner is its chestnut beer.

Walking into Pfefferlechner you could easily assume the old-world farmhouse ambiance is what makes the tavern bustle. But that would only be because you have not let your lips savor a freshly poured beer yet.

The craft beer of Pfefferlechner is the gold of the Alps. This becomes apparent before you even belly up to the bar. Brew kettles clad in copper cast gilded hues over the brewery — leaving no doubt that what you’re about to taste is treasured.

Beyond offering generous pours, Pfefferlechner is also generous in sharing its brewing passion with guests. On-staff brew maestros like Francesco Giacomelli walk through how they transform locally-grown barley, malt, yeast and pure mountain-born water into aromatic ales that delight on their own or with a meal.

Pfefferlechner Brew Master
Pfefferlechner Brewery Bar
Francesco Giacomelli
Pfefferlechner Brewery System
Pfefferlechner Hops
Pfefferlechner Brewing Tanks
Pfefferlechner Beer Vat
Pfefferlechner Beer Tasting
Pfefferlechner Non-Alcoholic Beer
Pfefferlechner Beer

After voyaging through the evolution of Pfefferlechner’s prize-winning beer, the real fun begins with a grand tasting. The sampling spans a variety of light to dark Pfeffer beers including the brewery’s thirst-quenching pilsner, bright pale ale and its ambered chestnut beer — a smoky smooth seasonal brew that you will come to crave every autumn.

In addition, you can also taste the first non-alcoholic beer brewed in South Tyrol. Branded “FRE [E] DL“, this flavorful IPA-like gem is available in mountain huts making it a smart go-to when taking a break from the kind of hiking, biking or skiing requiring ever-steady legs.

Deliciously Robust & Rural

No surprise, the same delicious magic Pfefferlechner conjures in the glass is also spun on the plate. The kitchen of Pfefferlechner dishes up robust South Tyrolean flavors using only regional products and fresh garden-gathered herbs.

On Pfefferlechner’s menu, you’ll find a bevy of traditional dishes embodying the best of the land. We recommend beginning your night with an appetizer called The Brettlemarende. This South Tyrolean favorite consists of speck and Kaminwurz sausage served with Alpine cheeses, radish and potatoes.

Pfefferlechner kitchen
Pfefferlechner Pumpkin Soup
Pfefferlechner Slaughter Plate
knodel dish
Pfefferlechner Risotto
Pfefferlechner Spare Ribs
Strauben Dessert
Pfefferlechner roasted chestnuts

For your main course, we doubt you could go wrong with any item on the menu. We have loved every meal here. Our last dinner at Pfefferlechner was an autumn feast. We relished rich pumpkin soup, chestnut risotto (a must-try) and a hearty grilled meat platter.

The tavern’s most popular dishes include its knödel, pork knuckle and spare ribs, which is the personal favorite of Francesco, the master brewer. You can also find gluten-free and vegetarian options if desired.

Pfefferlechner Schnapps
Sip like a South Tyrolean. Every dinner should conclude with a snort of schnapps.

If you have trouble pinpointing what to order, Pfefferlechner’s friendly staff is always willing to help. They also can suggest great beer pairings with your meal.

After such a sumptuous dinner, skipping dessert seems far more sinful than partaking in its sweet goodness. Pfefferlechner offers all the region’s classics from buchteln, strauben, apple strudel and more.

The tavern also tenders a novel take on tiramisu. Called “Birramisù”, Pfefferlechner imparts a smooth malty twist to a traditional Italian after-dinner treat.

Regardless of whether you order dessert, you should not depart your dinner table until you have sipped Pfefferlechner’s homemade schnapps. This digestif staple of South Tyrolean tavern culture is the only fitting way to end your night.

When to Visit Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery

Pfefferlechner’s beer garden is an ideal gathering place for friends, families and couples alike.

The most important thing to note about visiting Pfefferlechner is that the establishment is not open year round. The tavern and brewery closes for most of the winter.

However, if adventuring in South Tyrol from April through mid-December you are in luck. Plan your visit from after 4 p.m. on Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday or from 12:00 p.m. on Sundays.

We recommend making reservations especially if you have larger group. But if you do have to wait for seating, consider taking a stroll through Pfefferlechner’s adorable on-site petting zoo. Any little ones with you will undoubtedly fall in love with a fluffy rabbit or two.

Prost!

If you are in South Tyrol during its famous 5th season — the heart of autumn — you can enjoy Pfefferlechner’s rustic take on Törggelen. Beginning in early October, seasonal dishes and specialties such as roasted chestnuts are made available. This is also the time you will find the tasty chestnut beer on tap.

Live music is also a frequent occurrence at Pfefferlechner in its beer garden and cellar. To discover when live music is scheduled, we suggest visiting Pfefferlechner’s Facebook page.

We would like to give a big thank you to the Laimer family, Francesco Giacomelli and the rest of the tavern team for sharing the magic of Pfefferlechner with us!


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Filed Under: Get to Know South Tyrol, South Tyrol Cuisine Tagged With: Brewery, Restaurant, Törggelen

Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

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IN A LAND with as many deep-rooted traditions as soaring mountain peaks, it’s no wonder the festive souls of South Tyrol sought to make a beloved autumn custom its very own season.

Touted as South Tyrol’s fifth season, Törggelen is a centuries-old tradition celebrating the harvest’s new wine called “Nuier”, “Suser” or “Sauser”. The tradition involves a hearty hike in the afternoon followed by an even more hearty feast and wine sampling in the evening. Rural taverns or farmhouse inns called “Buschenschank” host the gatherings throughout Eisacktal Valley (Valle Isarco), as well as in other chestnut-friendly corners of South Tyrol.

In this post, we show you why adding this treasured tradition to your fall South Tyrol trip plans is a must. You’ll join us on a Törggelen-themed hike through ancient chestnut groves to a mysterious trio of medieval churches and then dine with us at a farmhouse perched on a mountainside eyeing the Dolomites.

⇒ Ready to embark on your own Törggelen adventure? Jump forward to a list of Törggelen establishments and events.

The Beginnings of Törggelen

Törggelen occurs through much of autumn from mid-September to the start of the Christmas season in mid-November. According to local lore, this is the time when the Wein-Nörggelen, a mischievous band of dwarves descend from the mountains to steal the wine of the harvest.

Chestnuts for Torggelen
In autumn, South Tyroleans gather chestnuts from the mountainsides to create a host of specialties.

The Törggelen tradition is thought to have begun centuries ago in Eisacktal Valley as a private gathering among neighbors. After a successful grape harvest, the local winemaker would invite nearby friends to a jovial evening sampling the new wine.

Now, this is not the kind of wine found on the shelf of your local wine shop. It is wine from freshly-crushed grapes in the early stages of fermentation — cloudy in color and potently sweet in flavor. In fact, the name Törggelen originates from the Latin word for wooden wine press. The Törggelen term “Buschenschank” dates back to the late Middle Ages when a bushy tree branch was placed above farmhouse doorways signaling to guests their kitchen was open.

Törggelen hosts complemented the new wine with autumn delicacies such as fire-roasted chestnuts, as well as speck, knödel dumplings and an assortment of cured sausages. After ample amounts of drinking and eating, the evening typically concluded with dancing and belting out traditional folk songs.

we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

Today, the tradition remains much the same, however, many farmhouse inns no longer only cater to a handful of well-known guests, but instead welcome strangers throughout the two-month-long celebration. These humble farmers thrive on the company and regale guests after the feast with tales of life in rural South Tyrol.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Discover Speckfest – A Mountain-size Celebration Not to Miss in South Tyrol

A Törggelen-Themed Hike to Dreikirchen

Our first Törggelen adventure began in the old world heart of Villanders (Villandro), a thousand-year-old village tucked high into a mountainside of Eiscack Valley. Age-old cobblestones wound through a narrow alley leading us past one of the most inviting entrances to a restaurant we had ever seen.

The Steinbock Manor & Restaurant (Zum Steinbock) resides in a castle wearing centuries of utter romantic ruin. Its stone walls whispered of tales long ago enrapturing us with mystery and intrigue. We made a note to return another time. Dining within would undoubtedly be a noble experience.

Villanders Churches
The Törggelen hike to the Dreikirchen begins with stunning views of the Church of St. Stephan and Church of St. Michael in Villanders.

On the other end of the alley, two church towers greeted us with spires piercing deep into the blue October sky. The masterful medieval stonework of each appeared gilded in gold beneath the warm gleam of the autumn sun.

We circled the Church of St. Stephan and Church of St. Michael encountering a cemetery unlike any other in South Tyrol. The tombs and wrought-iron crosses lie in such a way that the dead always face the rising sun. We noticed lanterns dotting the graves and made plans to visit when we could admire its beauty under candle glow.

Dreikirchenweg

Behind the Church of St. Stephan we ascended stone steps up a slope to the Three Churches Trail (Dreikirchenweg). Following the path, marked as no. 4 on signage, we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

we found the Three Churches enthroned in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom.

We found their swooping canopies and massive trunks weathered by centuries of Alpine wind and sun especially enchanting. Sitting beneath their leafy cover with the sun’s rays sprinkling through was next to divine. The idyllic setting to read a book or simply study the peaks of Dolomites far across the valley before nodding off into a gentle slumber.

Kate Underneath Apple Tree in Val Isarco
Torggelen in South Tyrol
Torggelen Hiking Trail
A trail of endless sights. The hike to the Dreikirchen was among the most picturesque we have embarked on in South Tyrol.

Moving on we encountered a pasture hidden by a halo of woodland. Within cows and South Tyrol’s celebrated Haflinger horses grazed together. Upon spotting us the horses galloped abruptly to our feet.

Whether they were anticipating a handout of apples or chestnuts, we did not know. But we were not about to share such delectable treats as they were not ours to give. Disappointed by such stingy hikers they quickly moved on.

Dreikirchen Sign Post

After an hour or so of hiking, the path descended into a hardwood forest. When we emerged from the shady cover we came to a paved road. A sign pointed us to continue along the pavement as it curved through the side valley until reaching another road snaking up through a stand of larches.

South Tyrol offers several Törggelen-themed hikes that expose you to the natural charms of the season imbuing a merry spirit well before your first sip of wine.

On the other side, we found the Dreikirchen (Three Churches) enthroned in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom. The churches reside in the hamlet of Dreikirchen, which sits almost due north of the village of Barbian (Barbiano).

Visiting the Dreikirchen

Mystery still shrouds the Three Churches. No one knows why the builders huddled them together. Nor who the builders were or why they chose such an isolated location.

The oldest, St. Gertrude, was built in 1237. Well-preserved Gothic frescoes and Baroque shrines adorn its interior guiding you to an altar where a statue of St. Gertrude stands between candles below a scene of the Crucifixion.

Dreikirchen
Dreikirchen Frescoes
Wooden Steeples of Dreikirchen
Ripped from the pages of Brothers Grimm? The trio of timbered steeples of the Dreikirchen is unlike any other in South Tyrol.

The second church, St. Nicholas, came shortly after the first was built while the third church, St. Magdalene was erected in 1470. Some believe the churches were established as shrines as they lie near pre-Roman healing springs. Perhaps medieval Christian worshipers sought to replace an ancient pagan sanctuary dedicated to the three goddesses of springs.

We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse dining room wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts.

The Three Churches are not left open, but you are welcome to retrieve the keys kept by the owners of a nearby rustic guesthouse called Gasthof Messnerhof. The establishment also offers traditional fare from their organic farm allowing you to grab a bite to eat before trekking back.

As we were keeping an eye on the clock to make sure we arrived on time for our night of Törggelen, we decided to skip snacking at Gasthof Messnerhof after touring the churches.

We followed the same route on our return to Villanders to save time. Despite our hurry, we still took occasional breaks to consume sips of water and long gulps of the Dolomites across the valley.

Val Isarco HikeAn Evening of Törggelen

Our Törggelen feast was reserved at a Buschenschank on the Winkler Hof farm in the hamlet of Sauderer (St. Moritz), just below Villanders. The estate was first mentioned in 1314.

Owned by Luise and Anton Fink, the farm is typical of South Tyrol. It beams with Alpine character from a sun-steeped slope next to the church of St. Mortiz, a mountainside chapel built in 1406.

The Fink family raises everything from dairy cows to pigs to hens and goats, as well as produces wine along with an assortment of berries and vegetables. They also supplement their income by offering guests a “farm stay” in one of three apartments located on the farmstead.

Winklerhof Farm
The farmstead of Winkler Hof delights you with home-made Törggelen flavors as equally rich as its wood-clad stuben.

We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse dining room wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts. From the table settings to the touches of Tyrolean folk art gracing the walls, every nook imparted old-world ambiance that transports you to another time.

Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine schnapps.

Our feast began with a bowl of tasty roasted chestnuts, a spread of speck and a glass of new wine from the farm’s Vernatsch grapes. This was followed by savory bowls of pumpkin soup and barley soup.

Then came a delicious dish of tris knödel, which is a speck, cheese and spinach dumpling served together atop Schlutzkrapfen ⁠— a pasta stuffed with spinach and Parmesan. A drizzle of melted butter crowned the heavenly fare. Ending the feast here would have typically been the wise thing to do, but not very South Tyrolean.

Torggelen Dishes

An immense platter of smoked sausages, pork and ham atop a bed of sauerkraut soon arrived tipping us from full to stuffed. But when the tray of sweets bounded on our table we somehow mustered the strength to devour every last bite of Krapfen (pastries filled with jam) and chestnut cake.

The rural revelry continued when Mr. Fink joined us at the table in his traditional attire to share a bit of history about Winkler Hof and Törggelen. To our surprise, we discovered the chestnuts we consumed were ‘erotic’ as he put it. Teeming with pheromones that made them the best aphrodisiac this side of the Alps.

Whether he was joking with us or not, we could not tell. The bottomless pitcher of wine throughout the night had done its job.

Torggelen Schnapps
Wine is not the only libation consumed during a Törggelen evening. Mountain pine schnapps is an Alpine-worthy apéritif to bring the dinner to close.

Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine schnapps. This mystery arrived in a small glass and wore an amber so deep it was almost hypnotic.

We toasted our friends across the table, Antonia and Diego, before splashing the potion down. It was invigorating. Like a bolt of pure Alpine air jolting through you from mouth to feet. Undoubtedly, a proper way to end a grand feast on a mountainside in South Tyrol.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: A Feast for Your Senses – The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

How to Find Törggelen Farmhouses & Taverns

There may be no better time to hike and feast than in autumn. The mountains and valleys are ablaze with dazzling gold and burgundy hues and the briskness in the breeze inspires a hunger only heartiness can satisfy.

torggelen holiday

Törggelen farmhouses and taverns can be found throughout the chestnut and wine-friendly growing regions of South Tyrol. These include Eisacktal Valley where Törggelen is thought to have originated, as well as along the South Tyrolean Wine Road, Merano and its bouquet of communities and San Genesio (Jenesien), which lies several thousand feet above Bolzano.

Törggelen typically requires booking in advance. Partaking in the custom is quite popular so we suggest contacting establishments more than a month out from your fall visit to South Tyrol.

Consider the following “Buschenschanks” located in Eisacktal Valley:

Villanders

  • Winkler Hof Farm
  • Larmhof Farm
  • Gasthof Sturmhof
  • Johannserhof
  • Pschnickerhof Farm
  • Röck Winery

Barbian

  • Gostner Hof Farm
  • Reatl-Hof
  • Buschenschank Unteraichnerhof

Chiusa

  • Pension Torggler 
  • Martscholer-Weinhof
  • Torgglkeller Schmuckhof

Feldthurns

  • Glangerhof
  • Obermoserhof Farm
  • Peintnerhof
  • Wöhrmannhof Farm

You can find additional Törggelen Buschenschank recommendations for towns such as Brixen and Lajen by visiting the official Eisacktal website. 

Additional Törggelen Hikes

While you do not have to endure a hearty hike to partake in a Törggelen feast, we cannot recommend embarking on a fall trek enough.  South Tyrol offers several Törggelen-themed hikes that expose you to the natural charms of the season imbuing a merry spirit well before your first sip of wine.

One of the most popular hikes is the “Keschtnweg” (Chestnut Trail), which begins at the Abbey of Novacella in Brixen and runs 30+ miles to Runkelstein Castle in Bolzano. This is a multi-day hike obviously, but you can access it from several villages along to enjoy the trail as much as you see fit.

To discover more Törggelen-themed hikes, visit the official website for South Tyrol. Their Törggelen section list two dozen hikes ripe for South Tyrol’s fifth season!

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for introducing us to the Törggelen tradition!

ADD TÖRGGELEN TO YOUR TRAVEL WISHLIST

Torggelen Tradition

Filed Under: South Tyrol Festivals & Events, South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure Tagged With: South Tyrol Hiking, Törggelen

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