Alto Adige Wines

The Merano Grape Festival: Harvesting A Hearty Good Time in South Tyrol

For those that think they know how to revel in autumn, think again. Discover why the Merano Grape Festival is the must-attend harvest celebration of the Alps.

IF WE WERE to pick one season to visit South Tyrol it would be autumn. Fall stamps a mountain-size exclamation point on all the enchanting elements that make this corner of Italy so alluring.

From the blazing foliage setting the mountainsides afire to the blissful fragrance of pluck-ready fruit perfuming the trails, the hand of autumn beautifies South Tyrol’s scenery more than any other season.

But do you know what we love even more than the pronounced natural beauty? How autumn enlivens the festive spirit of South Tyroleans.

Whether feasting your heart out in a timbered Buschenschank during Törggelen, relishing the best-smoked ham in the world beneath the thundering drama of the Dolomites or indulging in a bounty of other harvest festivals, a visit in fall leaves you with one impression above all: the people of South Tyrol know how to throw a party.

This jovial nature was never more apparent to us than this past October when we attended the annual Merano Grape Festival (also known as Traubenfest Meran and Festa dell’Uva Merano). In this post, we show you why experiencing the revelry of South Tyrol’s grandest fest is a must.

History of the Merano Grape Festival

Traditional attire and hearty laughter are on full display at the Merano Grape Festival.

The Merano Grape Festival is the oldest harvest festival in South Tyrol. The celebration has a vibrant history dating back more than 130 years.

Each year since 1886, South Tyroleans have gathered the third weekend in October in Merano to salute a bountiful grape harvest. Over the course of three days, the city comes alive with traditional music, food and drink entwined with the fascinating folklore of South Tyrol’s wine-growing culture.

Through the decades, the Merano Grape Festival has surged in popularity attracting up to 20,000 revelers each year from around the world. Such festive luster shines welcoming light on the stellar wines of Italy’s smallest wine-growing region.

What to Expect at the Merano Grape Festival

The Merano Grape Festival boasts a fun-filled program spanning three days. Fest-goers can delight in a cultural experience teeming with entertainment.

Each day offers a multitude of outdoor concerts as well as culinary stands brimming with the seasonal specialties of South Tyrol. Most of these festival activites take place in the plazas and promenades near the Passer River.

Admission to the festival is free. However, special events like wine tastings and yodeling workshops require a ticket. Yes, you can try mastering the art of yodeling while in Merano!

The Merano Grape Festival Grand Parade

The highlight of the festival is the Grand Parade that takes place Sunday afternoon. The one-plus-hour long procession is unlike any parade we have seen before.

The Grand Parade illuminates the flower-framed avenues of old town Merano with lushly decorated floats and carriages led by South Tyrol’s famous Haflinger horses. In fact, it is the only horse-drawn parade in all of the Alps.

In between the 40+ floats, marching bands from communities around Merano fill the air with song. In addition, the parade proudly showcases Schützen — members of a voluntary organization honoring the storied heritage of rifleman defending South Tyrol’s independence.

The parade even includes a glamorous appearance by Merano’s most famous resident: Sissi, the beloved Empress Elisabeth of Austria. In the 19th-century her beauty and affection for Merano was unrivaled.

The most spectacular sight we saw during the parade was a hulking bunch of grapes hung from a log carried by two men. Second to that was a mighty crown made of red and gold apples from South Tyrol.

Feasting with Festival Royalty

Prior to the parade, revelers and local residents alike feast in the Festplatz — a garden draped in vines tinged with autumn’s kiss. Here, you will mingle with ladies and gents donning time-honored Tyrolean attire while listening to live folk music.

Being able to admire the ornate costumes and hats up close is as fun as watching the parade itself. The Festplatz is also a great place to socialize with other fest-goers. We spoke with a friendly couple from Germany who left us even more merry than our glasses of wine.

This bustling area of the Merano Grape Festival is sponsored by the Schützenkompanie Meran (SSKM) so you are certain to find a hearty fall dish to your liking. But as we learned, make sure to leave room for South Tyrolean Strauben. It is not to be missed.

Where to Stay for the Merano Grape Festival

Given how popular the Merano Grape Festival has become we recommend booking accommodations in Merano so you can easily reach the old town center on foot. You will want to avoid dealing with heavy vehicle traffic — especially on Sunday when some roads close for the Grand Parade.

Here are some of our top Merano Grape Festival accommodation recommendations in the heart of Merano:

Hotel Therme Meran (Terme Merano) – This modern luxury spa resort sits in the middle of Merano along the Passer river. It is connected by tunnel to a stunning thermal spa and park where the pools possess healing properties thanks to mineral-rich water sourced from nearby Mt. Vigiljoch.

Hotel Aurora – Perched right on the Passer Promenade, Hotel Aurora is a family-owned gem with a location that cannot be beaten for the festival. The flower-drenched balconies offering sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and river below.

If you do not mind trekking a bit (20-40 minutes) to reach Merano, consider the following stays:

Hotel Erika – Located in the nearby village of Dorf Tirol, Hotel Erika is a jaw-dropping wellness oasis beaming from a mountainside amid vineyards and castles. You can easily reach Merano by taking the ravishing Tappeiner Promenade. This epic path is steps away from Hotel Erika.

Hotel Ansitz Plantitscherhof – Set conveniently in a regal neighborhood between Merano and the must-see Gardens of Trauttmansdorff, this boutique-style beauty wows guests with a rooftop spa and the opportunity to rent classic automobiles. Imagine cruising the Alps in a vintage Alfa Romero!

Of course, staying within walking distance of Merano is not necessary to visit the Merano Grape Festival. You might find it more convenient and affordable to book a cozy stay in neighboring Lana at the Landhaus am Gries or in Naturns at the Preidlhof Luxury Spa Resort. Public buses frequently run to Merano from these towns.

Tips for Attending the Merano Grape Festival

Wine and beer connoisseurs alike will find plenty to sample at the Merano Grape Festival.

The Merano Grape Festival is still scheduled to take place in 2020. This year will be an abbreviated festival running from October 17-18.

No doubt all of the health and safety measures we have become accustomed to over the last several months will be in force during the event. But unfortunately, the Grand Parade will not be rolling over the cobblestones this year. The Merano tourism website states festival officials are hopeful it will return in 2021.

If you plan to attend the Merano Grape Festival in the future, we recommend the following:

Book your hotel accommodations early
Once in Merano, visit the Merano tourist office for a map of the town and to obtain the festival program guide. The staff will also gladly answer any questions and share any special events you might like
Find a spot on the curb at least 30 minutes before the parade begins
If you are not staying within walking distance of Merano, make reservations for dinner in town after the parade. This will allow the crowds to thin out so you can avoid traffic delays

We would like to give special thanks to the Merano Tourist Office for going above and beyond in helping us highlight the Merano Grape Festival for our readers!

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Prackfol Wine Farm: Bounty Beneath the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 13 Comments

Legend has it dwarves mined treasures from the Dolomites long ago. Lucky for us they forgot to reap a bounty of nature steeping the fertile slopes below.

SOUTH TYROL REMAINS a tightly-shut treasure chest to much of the world. And that’s what makes it all the sweeter anytime we can reveal to you pearls within like the Prackfol Wine Farm (Prackfolerhof) in Völser Aicha. Such lucky finds during our wanderings are like marveling at the night sky and catching a star shooting across the horizon.

Prackfol landed on our South Tyrol bucket list after visiting the castled estate of Tiefenbrunner Winery along the South Tyrolean Wine Road two autumns ago. On that day, Christof Tiefenbrunner regaled us with a story about a special vineyard lying at the foot of the Dolomites. He shared that his premier Sauvignon Blanc arises from this fabled soil.

While we had experienced our fair share of wineries in South Tyrol, the chance to sip wine at one in the shadow of the “Pale Mountains” skyrocketed to the top of our travel plans. As you’ll discover, it should on yours as well.

Treasure of the Rosengarten

The Prackfol Wine Farm vaunts an idyllic view of **South Tyrol’s Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes.**

Reaching Prackfol Wine Farm is a sight-seeing adventure all its own. Tucked between the Dolomites’ Mt. Schlern and the Rosengarten Group to the east and the Latemar Group to the south, Prackfol sits at the end of a long road that descends gently into the densely forested Tiers Valley.

In the distant horizon, the titanic walls of the Rosengarten gleamed an almost silver and gold.

Gazing across the valley during our drive was like looking upon the verdant canopy of a mountain-jangled jungle. A lush mantle of pines, larches and chestnut groves painted the mountainside in broad brushstrokes of jade with the occasional gilded burst of autumn.

Before arriving, we halted at the top of a steep slope bejeweled by grapevines soaking in every beam of the wooing October sun. In the distant horizon, the titanic walls of the Rosengarten gleamed an almost silver and gold. The brazen peaks of Tschainer, Rotwand and Teufelswand stood at more than 9,000 feet dutifully waiting to perform their theater of alpenglow at dusk.

Below us, sandwiched between two mountainsides, sat the solitary farmstead of Prackfol. Perched above the valley floor at nearly 2,000 ft., the farm boasts a bucolic postcard scene among the best of any winery in South Tyrol. We fell immediately in love with their heavenly views, which were even more pronounced by the colors of the season.

Working A Land of Plenty

Upon our arrival, we were met in front of the farmhouse by Petra and Patrick Planer, a young couple who are the 4th generation to run the wine farm. They along with up to 10 helping hands during harvest carry on a 400-year legacy of producing delicious homemade wines.

Rustic charm beams from the mountainside.

Our tour began by walking past the winery directly above a sun-steeped vineyard that tumbled into the reaches of the valley gorge. As we paused to take in the panorama, Petra noted their vineyards tease elevations of 3,000 feet and total five hectares (12 acres) from which they produce 20,000 bottles each year.

Blessed by pure mountain air, steady bouts of glorious sunshine and rich, glacial-born soil made even more fruitful by Alpine snowmelt, Prackfol’s vineyards have long been recognized as producing great wines.

We popped the green jewels of caged sunlight into our mouths and savored the burst of sweetness on our lips.

From its earliest beginnings, the farm has cultivated wines celebrated in South Tyrol for their liveliness and elegance. In fact, according to Petra, their ancestral vintages were held in such high regard the nobility of Prösels Castle — one of South Tyrol’s most stunning fortresses — made Prackfol the wine of choice.

Pointing to the faraway mountain peaks, Petra shared that the Dolomites contribute more than beauty to the farm. “At night, the mountains cool our vines giving them relief from very warm daytime temperatures,” she said. “During the day, our vines also benefit from hot air soaring in from the valley of Bolzano.” Such extremes radically influence the ripening of the grapes helping foster characteristics unique to Prackfol.

Prackfol Grapes — Freshly picked Sauvignon Blanc grapes ready to crush.

As we walked on, Patrick, the vintner of the wine farm, plucked a cluster of the Sauvignon Blanc grapes for us to try. We popped the green jewels of caged sunlight into our mouths and savored the burst of sweetness on our lips.

Eventually, we wandered over to a wood platform jutting out of the mountainside. While we jokingly thought that might be where Patrick orchestrates a symphony of picking order to the seasonal harvesters below, Petra informed us it is a place for guests to take in the sweeping views from a unique vantage point.

Oachner Hofweg — The Oachner Höfeweg is a must-hike cultural trail that passes through the Prackfol Wine Farm.

We discovered that in addition to being a wine farm, Prackfol is a farm stay. Guests can spend their holidays in South Tyrol wiling away in one of three fully-equipped apartments located in the farmhouse. We imagine waking up in a room perfurmed by the natural bloom of grapevines in the sight of the Dolomites, to be just about anyone’s idea of paradise.

As if the vines and views are not enough to entice one to stay, Prackfol also sits directly along the newly founded Oachner Höfeweg — a thematic trail teeming with natural and cultural sights of the Alpe di Siusi region.

Beyond the viewing platform, Petra and Patrick led us to an opening in a forest where the trail tunneled under a tabernacle of leaves. Petra revealed that it runs past several ancient farmsteads, mountainside taverns, as well as the Prösels Castle, mentioned earlier. Farms? Taverns? Castles? We committed on the spot to hike the Oachner Höfeweg the next day.

Bundles of natural joy. Prackfol harvests grapes by hand and keeps their vineyards entirely pesticide free.

Where the Mountain Breathes

After touring the vineyards and receiving an overview of Prackfol’s viticultural practices, we followed Petra and Patrick to Prackfol’s winemaking operation adjoining the farmhouse. Recently expanded to give them more production capacity, Prackfol’s new facility orients to a more sustainable future while also firmly rooting itself in age-old winemaking tradition.

A new vinification cellar makes use of gravity to fill several stainless steel tanks instead of a pump. This not only protects the grapes but also embraces the forces of nature to efficiently transform them from fruit to fine wine.

Keeping the historic past a part of Prackfol’s identity was paramount to Petra and Patrick during the renovation. “Our farm was first mentioned in 1429,” said Petra as we stepped into Prackfol’s timeworn aging cellar. It was stacked with French oak barriques busily staying put allowing the hand of time to impart the wood’s wisdom into the wine. “Part of these cellar walls still hold stones from the original building.”

Reaching into the ice holes of the cellar one can feel the mountain's wintry breath.

Patrick pulled the cork (officially known as a bung) from the stave of a barrique and used a wine thief to draw a sample of wine. He excitedly announced that he would bring their “Nuier” (young wine) to our tasting.

Prackfol Aging Cellar — The wine of Prackfol aging with the wonders of wood.

Before venturing to Prackfol’s tasting room, Petra led us from the aging cellar to their retired cellar in another building on the farm. Here, she showed us how Prackfol ingeniously harnesses the mountain terrain to naturally air condition the wine farm.

The old walls of the cellar held “Eislöcher” (ice holes) which channel cool air circulating beneath beds of boulders under the mountainside. Reaching into the ice holes of the cellar one can feel the mountain’s wintry breath. Petra noted they use a tunnel to siphon the roughly 13 °C (55 °F) air from the old cellar to the rest of the farm.

Tasting Prackfol Wines

Prackfol’s tasting room is entirely new and is situated along the Oachner Höfeweg inviting hikers to give their legs a break while sampling the farm’s wine. While still under final construction during our visit, the tasting room was gracefully decorated complementing Prackfol’s modern vision with an endearing eye toward the past.

Petra began our tasting with a South Tyrolean classic: Vernatsch (also known as Schiava). Labeled as Patrick Planer’s Südtiroler Vernatsch, we had to inquire about the bottle’s novel artwork before taking our first sip.

Petra Planer — Petra pours us a glass of Prackfol’s award-winning Vernatsch.

It depicts two cartoonish monks sampling the wine from a barrique. Petra relayed that all of their wine labels showcase paintings by Hans Kompatscher— a beloved Tyrolean artist with a notable collection of artwork on display at nearby Romantik Hotel Turm.

Petra explained the wine's riveting personality was due partly to the vineyard's rooting in morainic terrain rich in minerals.

Prackfol chose the monk scene for its Südtiroler Vernatsch as the wine is popular with South Tyrolean churches. Their Vernatsch is particularly rare in the region because it is one of the few that is comprised of 99% of the grape. We found it eminently smooth like a soothing sax solo you get lost in a late-night jazz lounge.

Next, we tasted Patrick Planer’s Südtiroler Sauvignon, Petra’s personal favorite of their portfolio. This specialty of Prackfol is also the farm’s most abundantly produced wine.

As raving fans of Sauvignon Blanc, we thoroughly enjoyed Prackfol’s distinct take on the wine, from its plush bouquet to its mineralic-tingle to its lofty finish. Petra explained the wine’s riveting personality was due partly to the vineyard’s rooting in morainic terrain rich in minerals. She noted that after harvest their Sauvignon spends 5 months vinifying in stainless steel tanks and another 2-3 months in the bottle before going to market.

Prackfol’s Sauvignon Blanc is the prize of the wine farm.

After delighting in Prackfol’s Sauvignon Blanc, Petra poured the farm’s Südtiroler Blauburgunder (also known as Pinot Noir and Pinot Nero). In the glass, it shimmered a crimson brilliance clearly paying homage to the red plumes of the Tyrolean eagle. Our first impression on the nose was a hint of blackberry. In the mouth, it was full and juicy — a pleaser for patios and dinner tables no matter the occasion.

The last tasting of our visit was a true treat. Patrick brought us a pitcher of the “Nuier” as promised. This young version of Prackfol’s Sauvignon Blanc hovered between juice and wine and was remarkably delicious, tasting fresh like a green-tinged banana.

Finally, with the crowning pours of the “Nuier”, we raised our glasses high finishing our fascinating tour of Prackfol. Petra and Patrick could not have been more gracious hosts. We were sad to depart such a lovely place, but ever grateful for the time they gave us — especially during the grueling hustle of the season’s harvest!

Experience South Tyrol’s Wine Culture

Wine Barrel Bench at Prackfolerhof — Relax under a blissful shade of vines.

GETTING TO PRACKFOLERHOF: Völser Aicha, the village where you will find Prackfolerhof, is 20-30 minutes away from Bolzano by car. If you are staying elsewhere in the Alpe di Siusi region, you can be on the wine farm within 10-15 minutes.

A more adventurous way to reach Prackfolerhof is by trekking the Oachner Höfeweg, which you can begin from a parking lot below Prösels Castle. We will be covering this hike in detail for you in a future post.

WHEN TO VISIT PRACKFOLERHOF: Guests can visit the Prackfol Wine Farm on Tuesdays for tastings. Tours are also possible at times but must be booked in advance. If you’re interested in a cozy stay on the farm, the apartments are available for booking all year.

Make an inquiry on a tour or accommodations by contacting Petra and Patrick through the Prackfolerhof website.

Prackfol’s Vernatsch grapes patiently await picking by skilled hands.

HOW LONG TO PLAN FOR AT PRACKFOLERHOF: If you are visiting for a tasting, plan to spend an hour enjoying the wines and strolling the vineyards. If you intend to include a visit to Prackfol Wine Farm via the Oachner Höfeweg allow a half-day for the full experience.

WHERE TO PURCHASE PRACKFOL WINES: The best place to purchase Petra and Patrick’s wines is right at the farm. If that is not possible, you can find their wines throughout South Tyrol. Be sure to ask for a bottle when dining. Their wines can also be found in Germany and throughout Italy.

Besides supporting a family-owned farm, each purchase helps fortify the community of independent winegrowers in South Tyrol. The region currently has 100 such boutique producers.

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Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World’s Oldest Vine

By Kate & Vin 11 Comments

It’s not every day you meet a royal lady several hundred years old. But one such endearing elder thrives far below a castle in the village of Prissiano in South Tyrol (Alto Adige).

DEEP IN THE FOOTHILLS bounding between Merano and Bolzano lies one of the world’s greatest living treasures: the Versoaln vine of Castel Katzenzungen. This rare natural gem is likely the oldest and largest grapevine in the world.

Affectionately known as the “Old Lady” by the caretaker and owner of the castle, Veronika Egger Pobitzer, the vine according to viticulturists is 350+ years-old. The only known grapevine in the world of similar age is found in nearby Slovenia.

However, legend speaks of the Versoaln grapevine being even much older. It is said the Count of Schlandersperg planted the vine beneath his castle in 1379 — making her more than 600 years old. Whatever is the truth, the Old Lady is a wonder to behold when visiting South Tyrol.

Meeting the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen

The Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen enthrones herself almost 200 feet below the earth where her roots enjoy the spoils of the soil all to themselves. She eventually surfaces along an old stone wall at the foot of the castle’s hill.

From there, the Old Lady’s gnarled trunk curls into a wide smile as two main branches fan out a river of foliage. We found her wrinkled grin far more enchanting than any ever unfurled by the stroke of an artist’s brush.

But as pretty as her smile is, it’s the Old Lady’s verdant veil that steals your breath. Her leafy canopy shrouds the hillside — covering nearly 3,800 sq. ft. Atop the castle’s stone arch bridge, it appears as a velvety cloak kissed with green and gold. When the sun lances her leaves she almost shimmers in the light.

Looking down on her one can’t help but be in awe of her tenacious spirit. The Old Lady has braved centuries of war, famine and fire to still dazzle the eyes today.

The Versoaln vine displays a grand canopy below Castel Katzenzungen.

She rests her branches on a sprawling chestnut pergola several feet above the ground. When we first set foot under her canopy it was like walking into a hidden world.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct.

The Old Lady enveloped us in a labyrinth of lushness. Her leaf-riddled arms seemed to pull us down the hill. Clearly, she is a curious soul. Wanting to meet all who enter her realm face to face.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct. Its name pre-dates Ancient Rome and likely refers to how the canopy of vines was secured to trellises by rope. Fortunately, viticulturists from South Tyrol have been able to birth new vines from the Old Lady ensuring the variety’s future.

Vesoaln produces compact clusters of translucent medium-sized grapes. The Old Lady is still quite fruitful yielding enough grapes each year to produce 300-500 bottles of wine.

Veronika noted the castle estate does not actually produce the wine or care for the vine. The grapes are vinified at the Laimburg Research Center — a South Tyrolean agriculture institute located near the wine village of Tramin.

Versoaln vine — A beauty for the ages from above and below, the Old Lady still produces up to 900 lbs of grapes each year.

Tending to the health of the Old Lady is handled by the botanical experts of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff in Merano. In addition to protecting the vine, the Gardens’ promote her as a culturally significant part of South Tyrol’s 3,000-year-old winegrowing heritage.

Despite their efforts to safeguard the vine, how long the Old Lady will be with us is not known. Unfortunately, she has been afflicted with a slow-moving wood disease called Esca, which deprives her of water. To combat this menace, portions of the vine must be removed where Esca appears each year.

Touring Castel Katzenzungen

After giving our best wishes to the Old Lady and bidding her farewell, Veronika led us across the stone arch bridge for a tour of Castel Katzenzungen. This box-shaped castle is unlike any other we have encountered in South Tyrol.

First mentioned in 1244, the castle has been held by several noble families in South Tyrol over the centuries. While its name amusingly translates to “cat’s tongue”, the name actually arises from the original owner: Henricus de Cazenzunge.

From Sir Cazenzunge, the castle passed to the Lords of Fink and the Lords of Schlandersberg, as well as the Counts of Thun and Fuchs. In 1548, Castel Katzenzungen came into the hands of Lords of Breisach, who transformed it into its current Renaissance style.

Inside, Veronika pointed out architectural clues on the original stone staircase hinting a tower may have graced the castle at one point in time. She shared that for nearly 200 years Castel Katzenzungen was among the most prestigious residences in South Tyrol thanks to the wealth of the Breisach family. When their rule ended, the castle fell into decay.

The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the world's oldest grapevine.

It remained largely in ruin until 1978 when Veronika’s father-in-law, Josef Pobitzer, purchased the castle. Josef then passed the castle to his son, Ernst, who beautifully restored Castel Katzenzungen to its original character and former glory.

Today, the Pobitzer family operates the castle as a one-of-a-kind wedding and corporate event venue. Between its three floors, Castel Katzenzungen can host anywhere from a small group of 10 up to 450 guests.

Medieval weaponry adorns the great halls of the castle.

Veronika led us through each floor highlighting fascinating historic details of the castle. The ground floor now holds lavish banquet rooms and a wine bar, but during medieval times it was actually the castle’s stable. Why? Residents of the castle kept livestock at the lowest level so the animals’ body heat would assist warming the upper floors.

The first floor holds a large hall for live music and dancing. The hall’s stone floor is only around 20 years old, but masterfully resembles the original including its dark red color, which long ago was dyed red with animal blood.

Castel Katzenzungen Stube — Wood paneling from the 16th century lines the walls and ceilings of the castle’s lounge rooms.

Additional rooms on the first floor include elegant stubes wrapped in warm wood panels from the 16th century. This rustic feature was almost lost to history. Poor farmers staying in the castle during its period of decay covered the paneling to make the rooms smaller thus easier to heat. The gorgeous woodwork was revealed during the castle’s restoration.

Our favorite room of the castle was the medieval kitchen. Its walls run black —forever scarred by woodfires lit over the centuries to smoke speck. Dining in the kitchen under candlelight would undoubtedly transport you to another time.

Longing for enchantment? It is inescapable in the kitchen of Castel Katzenzungen.

The second floor features additional banquet rooms for larger gatherings. In the future, the Pobitzer family plans to use part of the floor to also showcase unique artwork, rocks, gemstones, minerals and a collection of historic arms from Josef Pobitzer.

Perhaps the most peculiar part of the second floor is the medieval bathrooms. Stone seats jut out from the exterior castle wall with an opening that allowed residents to relieve themselves high above the grounds. These of course were located on the sides of the castle — not above the front gate. Whether an unlucky peasant ever received these “gifts” from the heavens above we will never know.

Tasting One of the World’s Rarest Wines

We ended our visit to Castel Katzenzungen in the castle’s wine bar with a tasting of the Versoaln wine. The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the Old Lady.

Veronika kindly poured us each a glass and touched on the special attributes of Versoaln. In the glass, the wine sparkled with a yellowish-green hue and possessed subtle notes of green apple and exotic fruits on the nose.

In the mouth, it was surprisingly delicious. A summertime pleaser. The Versoaln wine was light and fruity with a fun touch of tart on the finish. We had to bring a bottle of the Old Lady home with us. Her story is too remarkable not to share.

If you want to sweeten your lips with the Old Lady yourself, the only way to do so is by visiting Castel Katzenzungen. Due to the small production volume of the wine, bottles are only sold at the wine bar.

So how much is a bottle of one of the rarest wines in the world? Surprisingly affordable. For only € 35 you can regale the tale and flavor of the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen with your family and friends.

How to Visit the Old Lady & Castel Katzenzungen

If you are a castle or wine lover, you will want to add Castel Katzenzungen and Prissiano to your South Tyrol trip plans. In fact, Prissiano is known as the “village of castles” since it is the historic home to an abundance of regal residences.

Throughout the year, Castel Katzenzungen hosts various cultural and culinary events in support of the local community. If you cannot visit during an event, a castle tour and organized tasting can be arranged for 10 or more.

An annual autumn event we have our heart set on attending someday is a torchlight hike between three castles of Prissiano which includes Castel Katzenzungen. This festive outing is a part of the Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival).

How about a wedding in a chapel followed by a celebration at a castle? The historic St. Martin Church sits directly across from Castel Katzenzungen.

Of course, an even better option for you to consider is hosting a smashing gala at Castel Katzenzungen. What could be more romantic than a wedding or anniversary party at a castle amid the mountains?! If you do book such a celebration, we kindly request an invite!

To explore scheduling a visit or more at Castel Katzenzungen, connect with Veronika via the castle’s official website.

The nearby town of Lana makes a convenient base for exploring the region. You can be in Prissiano in a matter of minutes by car or bus or you can wander from sight to sight along the numerous hiking trails crisscrossing the hills and valleys. See our guide to visiting and staying in Lana for more information.

We would like to give special thanks to Veronika for taking time out of her busy day to introduce us to the wonders of the Old Lady and Castel Katzenzungen!

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Castel Katzenzungen: Home to the World's Oldest Grapevine

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of the Wine Road

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Tramin, Italy is a rare gem where its chill vibe and festive spirit capture your heart all at once. Here are our tips for visiting this timeless village.

It’s easy to visit South Tyrol and give all of your attention to the stony giants crowding the horizons. But strolling the cobbled village streets rivering its mountainsides can do as much to instill a sense of wonder as traversing any remote rocky trail.

Especially those along South Tyrol’s Wine Road. Exploring these idyllic medieval hamlets rooted in the vine-riddled hills is like plugging into charging stations for the soul.

In this post, we uncover the romantic charms of Tramin. You’ll discover how to indulge in the village’s historic sights and jubilant traditions as well as visit the esteemed J. Hofstätter Wine Estate.

Getting to Tramin

Tramin (also known as Termeno) lies in the heart of the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Südtiroler Weinstrasse) just beyond the bright blue shimmer of Lake Caldaro. Whether coming from Bolzano to the north or Trento to the south, you can be in the village in less than 40 minutes.

As you approach, its old-world contours dawn beneath the sandy-hues of the Mendola mountain ridgeline. Soon, Tramin’s towering parish church steeple welcomes you like a signpost noting: “Tranquility this Way ⇒”. Its Gothic character lines are unmistakable amid the lush Mediterranean foothills.

Once you arrive in the village, we recommend parking near the center to set out on foot. A free lot is located off Via Mindelheim, which places you right next to the official Tramin tourist office. It pays to stop in to pick up a map as well as discover any special markets and events taking place that may be of interest during your time in South Tyrol.

Touring the Sun-Graced Treasures of Tramin

Tramin has roots thousands of years deep. Archaeological findings indicate settlements in the area as early as the time of Ötzi the Iceman.

Visiting Tramin, Italy — A veritable Eden of Italy, Tramin basks in more than 300 days of sunshine each year.

However, Tramin as a village did not come to be until the Middle Ages. This medieval history is inescapable. Narrow alleys, stone archways and windows bedecked in flowers seem to greet you at every turn — making its historic roads enchanting to wander all on their own.

But the village also holds three religious treasures not to miss. These sites are priceless in their historical significance to South Tyrol.

Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta

The Parish Church of Tramin boasts the tallest Gothic tower in South Tyrol.

Not far from the heart of Tramin is the magnificent Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta. Founded in 850 AD, the church transports you to another time with intricate craftsmanship that has long since been discarded in our hurried age.

The addition of its iconic Gothic stone steeple occurred in 1492. At a height of 282 feet, it is the tallest tower of its kind in South Tyrol.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore.

Inside, you can admire Gothic frescoes depicting the martyrdom of the church’s patron saints as well as ornate altarpieces dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Joseph, St. Jacob and St. Sebastion.

The Church of St. Jakob

A bit further up the mountainside on a hilltop called Kastelaz resides another cherished historic haunt of Tramin: the quaint Church of St. Jakob. It possesses some of the most impressive and unique medieval artwork in South Tyrol.

The church’s Romanesque frescoes from the 1200s are remarkably well preserved and among the oldest in Germanic Europe. The vivid depictions are utterly fantastical in form.

St. Jakob Church in Tramin, Italy — Inconspicuous from the outside, the Church of St. Jakob is a medieval marvel seated on a supposed sacred site of Ancient Rome.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore. In addition, biblical characters such as the twelve apostles, Cain and Abel and a large Gothic fresco of fallen Goliath meeting his end at the hands of diminutive David grace the stone. There is simply no other church like it.

Romanesque frescoes of St. Jakob Church on Kastelaz hill — The centuries-old frescoes of St. Jakob are among the most bizarre you will ever encounter.

Outside the church, be sure to soak in the sweeping views of Tramin and Lake Caldaro. From up here, it’s easy to see why the Ancient Romans also chose this lofty location as a place of worship. According to legend, a temple to the goddess Isis once stood where the church is today.

The St. Valentin Church and Cemetery

On the southern end of Tramin directly off the South Tyrolean Wine Road stands the St. Valentin Church and cemetery. First documented in 1276, this small church requires obtaining keys from the tourist office to enter. However, if you cannot obtain them for whatever reason you can peer through windows to see its interior.

Adorning its walls are colorful frescoes in Venetian style from the late 1300s and early 1400s. Among them are a captivating Passion of the Christ and the retelling of the Legend of St. Ursula, the patron saint of educating young girls. She was sadly murdered with an arrow in 383 AD.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps.

Even if you do not tour the church, walking the St. Valentin cemetery rewards with stunning sights unfurled between stately cypress trees and sun-drenched palms.

St. Valentin Church Cemetery — The hillside church and cemetery of St. Valentin overlooks the Adige Valley basin on the edge of Tramin.

If you plan to visit the St. Valentin Church, consider driving to it either before or after you have explored Tramin’s village center. You can reach the church in a matter of minutes by car versus embarking on a somewhat lengthy trek by foot.

Discovering the Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter

The wine of Tramin has been beloved for centuries. Books of long ago call out the potent qualities of “Traminer” wine. It was said to possess healing powers and spark passions among lovers.

Such veneration was likely referring to what we now call Gewürztraminer. This highly aromatic, spicy-sweet grape varietal was born in Tramin more than a thousand years ago. The name actually means “the spicy one from Tramin”.

Tramin, Italy Vineyards — Breathtaking scenery? Just a bit. The vineyards of Tramin encircle the village with lushness during the growing season.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps. In fact, they were of such high esteem that in the early 15th-century legendary minnesinger Oswald von Wolkenstein penned a lovesick song about Tramin wines. His lips longed for the flavor while subjected to sipping lesser vintages during his troubadouring travels.

Today, you can find Tramin’s wines sold throughout the world, but there is no better way to discover their mountain-born magic than visiting its wineries. One revered winery not to miss is J. Hofstätter. After embarking on a tasting, you too will be singing praises of the wine just like Sir Oswald.

Pioneers of Alto Adige

Rising from the cobbles of Tramin near the aforementioned Parish Church is the courtly manor of J. Hofstätter wines. Founded in 1907 by Josef Hofstätter, the estate sits on the village edge right below a vast expanse of vineyards that ripple to the summit of Kastelaz hill. Stretch your eyes further up still and you will enjoy the sight of a spruce-speckled Mt. Roen, which watches over all at a height of nearly 7,000 ft.

The winery itself consists of six levels including a wine shop, wine bar, restaurant and a cellar that is a must-see.

Now in its fourth generation, Martin Foradori Hofstätter currently oversees 124 acres making the estate one of the largest family-owned wineries in South Tyrol. Twenty-five of this acreage abounds around Tramin with additional vines grown on the slopes across the valley.

Markus Heinel of J. Hofstatter Wines — J. Hofstätter winemaker, Markus Heinel, is a talented oenologist who wears his passion for the craft on his face. His love for the vines shines through in the glass.

According to the winemaker, Markus Heinel, these vineyards sit at elevations varying between 820 and 2790 ft. This allows the J. Hofstätter estate to optimally harness a host of microclimates and soil conditions in its production.

Such diversity paired with innovation and a rare, unwavering vision to meet exacting standards has led to wines of international acclaim year after year. When it comes to producing exquisite wines, Markus made it clear, patience is more than a valued virtue at J. Hofstätter, it is mandatory.

The winery itself consists of six levels including a wine shop, wine bar, restaurant and a cellar that is a must-see. It holds fermentation tanks unlike any we have ever seen. Made of nearly eight-inch thick concrete, these cocoon-looking casks were the first of their kind in South Tyrol.

J. Hofstatter Wine Cellar — J. Hofstätter helped pioneer a more sustainable winemaking approach in Alto Adige by being the first to use concrete fermentation tanks.

Besides just being plain fun to look at, they facilitate gentle fermentation and support J. Hofstätter’s environmentally-friendly winemaking process by preserving temperatures. Markus indicated their pioneering fermentation method has since been replicated by other wineries in the region.

An Inspired Portfolio

The J. Hofstätter portfolio comprises 15 whites and 12 reds with a primary focus on five of the traditional local varieties: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Lagrein, and Vernatsch. The wines fall into one of three lines: Classic, Selection and Single-vineyard.

The Classic wines exhibit the typical varietal character of Alto Adige wines. Selection wines, on the other hand, are produced from carefully selected grapes and include a red blend and a white blend.

J. Hofstätter’s Single-vineyard wines are the pinnacle of the portfolio. They embody the winery’s most treasured vineyards and are born from grapes sourced from a single historic plot.

Markus noted these wines include the word “Vigna” on the label which certifies the wine originates from grapes ripened in single demarcated vineyards. The J. Hofstätter estate pioneered this classification setting a quality standard for premium Alto Adige wines.

Single-vineyards wines stand apart in the wine world as they represent the ultimate expression of their terroir — the defining characteristics captured from a grape varietal’s natural environment.

Tasting Tramin and Beyond

Our tasting with Markus included sampling five of J. Hofstätter’s most renowned wines.

We began with Pinot Blanc (also known as Pinot Bianco and Weissburgunder) — a star white of Alto Adige. Markus informed us the Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Noir. It is a true cool-climate grape thriving at elevations up to 2,600 ft.

J. Hofstatter’s Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinto Blanc originates from the winery’s Barthenau estate at an elevation of almost 1,500 ft. It was delightfully crisp and rich with delicious notes of apple, pear and almond. An elegant stunner that would do wonders on a hot summer day.

The Pinot Blanc was followed up with the estate’s Joseph Gewürztraminer from their Selection series. Markus shared that this is their textbook Gewürztraminer — showcasing all the classic attributes of the wine: full-bodied with a bright straw yellow color, a powerful aromatic character of rose petals and ginger with a vibrant and long finish.

Next, Markus poured the estate’s Single-vineyard Gewürztraminer: Kolbenhof. This deep golden beauty is made from select grapes grown in the family’s steep Kolbenhof vineyard, which is in the hamlet of Söll overlooking Tramin. It possesses an enthralling fruit intensity and aromas that win your heart before even tipping the glass to your nose. In the mouth, it was uniquely lush with a long elegant finish.

J. Hofstätter is unique in Tramin in that guests can also discover the art of viticulture.

We followed up the Gewürztraminer tasting with the winery’s selection of Pinot Nero (more commonly known as Pinot Noir). The first Pinot sampled was the Riserva Mazon. It hails from the other side of the Adige Valley on a slope known as Mazon. Grown here, the grapes benefit from a beaming evening sun and the cooling effects of the “Ora” winds bestowed from Lake Garda to the south.

The Mazon Riserva is a full-bodied, deep red elegant Pinot Nero. The wine’s extensive aging in oak barrels imparts a wild fruity aroma with a velvety smooth feel that almost massages the mouth.

Swirling J. Hofstatter Pinot Noir — Our favorite of the tasting, the Barthenau Vigna San Urbano put Italy on the map for great Pinot Noirs.

Our last wine with Markus was another Pinot Nero from the Mazon estate. This one stole the show. The Barthenau Vigna San Urbano is a darky ruby gem whose fruit-driven style with hints of vanilla and chocolate has made the Mazon estate the most celebrated vineyard for Pinot Nero in Italy.

The name of the wine pays homage to a professor who introduced the Pinot Nero variety to Alto Adige in the late 19th century. J. Hofstätter has masterfully continued this gentleman’s vision by producing a Pinot Nero that ranks among the best in the world. It truly personifies the attributes that make wine from Alto Adige so special.

Visiting J. Hofstätter Wine Estate

Besides being a destination to enjoy delicious wines, J. Hofstätter is unique in Tramin in that guests can also discover the age-old art of viticulture. The estate’s Show Vine Garden flourishes with Gewürztraminer vines where you can witness how vintners tend to the vineyard from morning until dark.

Hofstatter Winery Tour — J. Hofstätter offers guided excursion through three of its picturesque vineyards.

In addition, the winery offers vineyard and cellar tours if booked in advance. Both include expert-led tastings that give you an intimate understanding of the special characteristics of J. Hofstätter’s wines.

The wine shop, bar and restaurant open and close at various times. But no matter when you visit Tramin, you should have no problem finding time to make the J. Hofstätter Wine Estate a part of your experience.

Reveling in Tradition

If you can time your visit to Tramin during one of its many annual events, you will be immersed in a thrilling cultural experience. These lively celebrations may even leave you feeling more festive than polishing off a bottle of its wines.

Wine lovers will definitely find revelry swirling about during the annual Tramin Wine Lane. This fall celebration occurs on a Saturday in late October beginning in the early afternoon until midnight.

The festival takes place in the alleys of Tramin allowing you to sample a variety of locally produced wines while nibbling on roasted chestnuts and other seasonal delights. As you wander the alleys, you’ll encounter local groups performing traditional Tyrolean music and dance.

Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more.

If you have never watched such performances, enjoying them in the old world atmosphere of Tramin is especially fascinating. The spirit of the event is infectious and will no doubt create a lasting fond memory of your time in South Tyrol. For more information on the Tramin Wine Lane, check out the event’s official page.

Traditional Men's Tyrolean Dance — Care to dance? Traditional Tyrolean dances ensue up and down the main alley of Tramin during its annual Wine Lane event.

Every other year during February is another unique event of Tramin known as the Egetmann Parade. This Carnival celebration occurs on Fat Tuesday and attracts thousands of spectators.

The parade has a long history in Tramin with records indicating it occurring as far back as 1591. We have yet to participate in this notorious raucous custom, but have heard it can be loud and brash with a good measure of harmless naughtiness flung from the floats. Certainly a rousing tradition not to be missed if you are in South Tyrol in February.

Besides these events, Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more. To see a list of current happenings while planning your visit, scroll through Tramin’s event page.

Where to Stay

Beyond the sights and activities we covered above, Tramin is a biker’s paradise offering pedaling adventures through truly epic Mediterranean scenery crowned with Alpine vistas. With Mt. Roen looming over Tramin, hikers and bikers have plenty of elevation to explore as well.

Such an abundance of South Tyrolean goodness all in one area makes Tramin a great town to stay in. The uber-modern Hotel Traminerhof is conveniently located within walking distance of the village’s heart. Not only does the hotel allow easy access to all of Tramin’s charms, but it also caters to bikers with guided tours and provides all the amenities to immerse yourself in the benefits of Alpine wellness.

Weingut Dona Winery — Interested in knowing more about South Tyrol’s wine culture? Stay on the South Tyrolean Wine Road at small family-owned wineries like **Weingut Donà.**

If you’re looking for a dash of romance, consider staying along the South Tyrolean Wine Road at a boutique winery. Donà Winery (Weingut Donà in German), is a lovely family-owned estate placing you the in middle of vineyards tumbling beneath one of South Tyrol’s most spectacular castle ruins. The winery’s location is ideal for visiting Tramin and other sights along the Wine Road.

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Casks, Castles & Christmas – Revelry at Castel Rametz

By Kate & Vin 19 Comments

With its towering battlements radiating amid vine-drenched hills and mountains lanced by snow, Castel Rametz is, without doubt, a quintessential sight of South Tyrol.

The wine estate, perhaps more than any other, embodies the beauty of Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes conspiring with medieval contours to steal your breath.

Perched above Merano in the luxuriant district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz was etched on our must-see list ever since first admiring its stately manner from the mountainside of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

When we discovered the estate hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit. The chance to turn several shades of merry before even setting foot in the traditional Christmas market of Merano was too enticing to pass up.

A Hillside Haunt Steeped in History

While Castel Rametz has seen rulers come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful owner to its throne. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of wine soon followed.

Antique photo of Castel Rametz — Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate. These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”. Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol.

Courting Christmas Cheer

We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of man’s best friend.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lied beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its hallowed stones.

Castel Rametz Mercatino — The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with exquisite holiday dazzle. Classy decor and a roaring fire made it a sanctuary for the season. Looking around, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

The old-world ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

A stand in the courtyard offered traditional delicacies to delight in while enjoying the smokey crackle of logs aflame. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to browse the Christmas market within the castle.

Inside, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar — The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is a marvel to browse.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The old-world character of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

Amid the glow of flickering flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow. In a nearby stone nook, a carefully carved nativity scene caught our eye. We studied its graceful beauty beneath lights casting the deep blue hues of a winter’s night sky.

Gift of the Vines – Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We could have remained enveloped in the ambiance of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wines that makes us want to uncork one. Embarking on a wine tasting next in Castel Rametz’s enoteca seemed wildly appropriate as our next stop.

We climbed the cellar stairs parking ourselves on two seats at the wine tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz — The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to enjoy a remarkable tasting.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Whether you're a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to uncork at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website.

A wayside shrine in the vineyards of Castel Rametz — The guardian of Castel Rametz watches vigilantly from the foot of the castle’s shrine.

Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also enjoy a meal here.

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Tiefenbrunner Winery – A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside

By Kate & Vin 20 Comments

If wine is indeed “bottled poetry” as it has been said, the five generations of family running the Tiefenbrunner Winery have composed a sweeping saga. Winemaking as a true expression of art has never been more apparent than during our visit to this celebrated wine estate.

Tucked between the ancient villages of Kurtatsch (Cortaccia) and Margreid (Magrè) in the hamlet of Entiklar (Niclara), the Tiefenbrunner Winery is among the oldest in South Tyrol. It sits upslope from the South Tyrolean Wine Road amidst a seemingly endless regiment of grapevines. They reign down in waves from the foothills of the Fennberg mountain plateau leaving no doubt: wine is the ruler of this bountiful land.

The winery itself was officially registered in 1848. But the winemaking heritage of the area goes back thousands of years to the Rhaetia period — 500 years before the ascent of the Ancient Roman Empire in the Alps.

From Castle to Cask

Tiefenbrunner Winery welcomes you from a forested enclave like a scene written to woo readers of a romance novel. The ornate story unfolding over the crenelated walls of Castel Turmhof, where the winery calls home, greet you in spellbinding fashion.

Any thoughts you are here only for a wine tasting, quickly dissipate. You realize Tiefenbrunner is as much a historic destination as it is a winery. It’s impossible not to be enamored by the antiquity before you.

After our arrival, we stood in awe studying the castle’s architectural details and bemusing murals before being met by the owner, Christof Tiefenbrunner.

The regal lines of the manor made us feel almost as if we were standing before royalty. But Christof’s gracious, down-to-earth demeanor quickly put us at ease. Christof and his wife, Sabine, opened a new chapter in the winery’s long history in 2000 when they took it over from his father who presided over its remarkable growth since 1968.

Grape leaves gilded in autumn’s gold swelled overhead toward the towering cliffs of Fennberg.

Before leading us into the heart of the operation, he gave us a tour of the estate’s grounds. We discovered the castle lorded over the cultivation of grapes since at least 1225 when it was first documented in land records as the “Linticlar estate”. The Tiefenbrunner family began its legacy at the estate in 1675 eventually christening it “Castel Turmhof”.

Tiefenbrunner Winery Castle Park — Of wine and fairytales. Tiefenbrunner’s Castle Park whisks you to another world.

As we passed by a grotto with a waterfall splashing into a shallow pool, Christof pointed to fantastical sculptures peeking from rocky coves and nooks. His great-great-grandfather, Johann Tiefenthaler, beautified the castle with ponds and enchanting works of art more than 150 years ago. The figures from biblical and ancient mythology added a touch of whimsy to the historic site.

Vines a Thousand Years Wide

Christof brought us to an open-air courtyard where the winery burrowed into the mountainside. Grape leaves gilded in autumn’s gold swelled overhead toward the towering cliffs of Fennberg.

Growing demand for Tiefenbrunner’s portfolio of wines in the 1980s meant expanding the winery’s operational footprint. But instead of building outward they built downward; beneath the vineyards. By doing so, they were able to protect the historic value of the castle and its grounds.

Tiefenbruner Grape Vines in Autumn — A crown of gold rises over the winery. There is nothing quite as magical as experiencing the vineyards of South Tyrol in autumn.

Today, Tiefenbrunner cultivates roughly 25 acres of grapevines on the slopes near the winery along with nearly 40 more acres between Kurtatsch and Margreid. Together, they comprise 25 vineyards sitting at elevations from 820 feet to an astounding 3,280 feet above sea level. In fact, Tiefenbrunner’s flagship white, “Feldmarschall Von Fenner” Müller-Thurgau, begins its ascent to greatness from one of the highest vineyards in Europe.

Many of Tiefenbrunner’s vineyards cling to southerly-facing slopes where they enjoy a winemaker’s dream: dramatic temperature swings between night and day and loamy soil rich with limestone.

Tiefenbrunner’s flagship white, “Feldmarschall Von Fenner” Müller-Thurgau, begins its ascent to greatness from one of the highest vineyards in Europe.

The effects are practically alchemic in nature. The warm winds during the day induce ripening, but the chilly mountain breezes in the evening stop it in its tracks conserving acidity. This phenomena paired with the artful tending of grapevines by expert hands allows Tiefenbrunner to ripen grapes with uncanny precision.

Christof shared that he also sources grapes from 50 or so small growers around South Tyrol including vineyards at the foot of the Dolomites’ Schlern mountain — perhaps South Tyrol’s most emblematic peak.

Tiefenbrunner Grapes — Tiefenbrunner excels at transmitting the terroir to the glass. The winery produces a diverse portfolio of 29 wines resulting in 700K+ bottles each year.

Whether planting new vines or cultivating old, Tiefenbrunner maintains close bonds with each grower ensuring the distinct personality of the plot comes to full fruition in the most environmentally sound manner possible. Its eco-minded commitment to winemaking is not a reflection of the latest feel-good fad, but a part of Tiefenbrunner’s heritage and principal operating philosophy. For more than 100 years, the winery has sustainably obtained all of its electricity through its own hydropower plant.

Beneath the Crown of Gold

We followed Christof into the winery where he walked us through its bottling and packaging operation. From there, we entered Tiefenbrunner’s winemaking cellars. Here, he stressed the lengths Tiefenbrunner goes to imprint the terroir’s character on each grape varietal.

The winery transforms its grape juice into world-class wines through four vinification and aging practices. Vinification occurs in large stainless steel tanks, concrete vats and immense wooden casks followed by aging in French oak barriques as well as in the bottle. This allows Christof and his winemaker, Stephan Rohregger, to cull the definitive virtues of its wines with a demanding degree of accuracy and quality.

christof tiefenbrunner — Passion is contagious…even more so when discussing delicious wine. Christof shares the artistry of personifying the terroir in the bottle.

The result is excellence in expression year after year across Tiefenbrunner’s four lines of wines: Selection Vigna, Selection Linticlarus, Selection Turmhof and Classic Merus. Each line meets the discerning tastes of markets around the world with the Selection Vigna line representing the winery’s Grand Cru.

The first-rate quality Tiefenbrunner releases have not gone unnoticed by the wine industry elite. Renowned wine critic, James Suckling, consistently includes Tiefenbrunner wines in his annual Top 100 Italian Wines list. This is no small feat considering he samples 3,000+ Italian wines each year.

Its grapes arise from a vineyard nestled at the foot of Schlern mountain where the sandy soil possesses high salt levels and limestone rock born from the Dolomites themselves.

We ventured further into the winery to a 400-year old cellar that at one time in the castle’s storied history held cows. Any sign of our hooved friends was long gone as oak barrels now filled the cool air of the room. And certainly begifting us a much more pleasant aroma than in ages past.

Tiefenbrunner Stube — Come for the wine, stay for the ambiance.

Our tour continued up a set of stairs to another courtyard where a 280-year old yew tree gnarled toward the sky. Christof ducked us into a gorgeous stone-pine paneled room inviting guests to enjoy an assortment of local specialties from speck to sausages to cheese to homemade bread while sipping on Tiefenbrunner’s wines.

We then descended again beneath the castle to the Wolkenstein Cellar — an 800-old cellar where meat was smoked in medieval times. Tiefenbrunner has since scrubbed away the centuries-old remnants of wood fires making the cavernous room now a place to taste wines amid the ambiance of ancient stones.

A Tale of Five Wines

After the fascinating tour deep beneath South Tyrol, Christof brought us to Tiefenbrunner’s wine shop located across from the castle. A quaint two-story building, it reminded us of an old-world storefront complete with an artist’s loft above — a natural setting to further discover the tale of its wines.

The first thing we noticed next to our tasting table was four glass cylinders filled with soil. We found them an ingenious touch to help tell the story of Tiefenbrunner. Short of trekking to each plot with a shovel in hand, they made grasping the variety of soil types easier to understand.

For the tasting, Christof led us on a journey through all four wines comprising Tiefenbrunner’s Selection Vigna line followed by a tasting of its Lagrein Riserva from its Selection Linticlarus line.

Tiefenbrunner launched the Vigna line to showcase its single-vineyard wines, which as Christof noted: “transmits the terroir best in the glass.” They are celebrated for perfectly balancing elegance with a deep richness of fruit flavors.

Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc Riserva

If gracefulness in wine has ever been an elusive descriptor for you, pour a glass of Tiefenbrunner’s Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc. Its meaning will crystallize on your nose and in your mouth. The wine takes you by the hand leading you gently across the dance floor, but before the song is over it has you effortlessly enraptured in the tango.

Its grapes arise from a vineyard nestled at the foot of Schlern mountain where the sandy soil possesses high salt levels and limestone rock born from the Dolomites themselves. This imparts an initial flint-like aroma that eases into fruity notes of dry hay and exotic fruit.

The wine ages for 11 months in oak and another year in the bottle before release. As a Sauvignon Blanc “raised by the Dolomites”, it makes a delicious gift for the hiker in your life. Its price begins at $59.

Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau

This white is a sterling example of what we love about the world of wine: the story a bottle tells. And while we may be biased, no bottle can spin a better tale than the wines from South Tyrol.

The Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau is quite the epic. The wine is named after Franz Philipp Freiherr von Fenner, an Austrian field marshall who founded the Tyrolean Imperial Rifles, a regiment serving the Austrian emperor in the 1800s.

The grapes composing this legend grow at an elevation of nearly 3,300 feet above sea level on the Fennberg mountain plateau next to the historic summer estate of the Feldmarschall. This lofty height makes it the highest Müller-Thurgau vineyard in Europe.

Planted almost 50 years ago by Christof’s father, the vineyard’s altitude exemplifies how winemaking is an art. It is located such that an immense jutting rock face protects the vines from northerly winds.

We found the Feldmarschall Von Fenner a stunner from swirl to finish. Pure deliciousness reminiscent of a dry Reisling, but more complex with an energetic minerality. James Suckling referred to it as possibly the “best Müller-Thurgau in the world”. And the renowned wine guide, Gambero Rosso, awarded the wine its coveted Three Glasses prize.

With all that said, the label on the bottle alone is enough to entice us to purchase this high-mountain gem. No one should pass up the chance to unwind with a heroic military officer of old Tyrol. $45.

AU Chardonnay Riserva

Sipping this delightful number furthered our conviction that the only Chardonnays worth paying attention to come from South Tyrol. Well, at least that is how we see it.

The AU Chardonnay was pleasantly dry with a well-rounded body and ever tantalizing bouquet. Our semi-novice noses could not pin down the aromas. It was thoroughly exotic and intoxicating. In the mouth, we found it evolving with intensity eventually giving way to a nice long finish.

Christof shared that the vineyard where this Chardonnay is born sits directly behind the estate. The plot slopes under a pergola of vines that are 60 years old. He noted the wine itself can age a remarkable 20+ years in a cellar. It starts at $59.

Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva

While white wines comprise roughly 70% of Tiefenbrunner’s production, reds are not any less important to the winery. Producing Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva requires a rare perfect growing season before Tiefenbrunner will harvest the grapes.

We learned the name “Toren” is a Middle High German word meaning tower. The grapes thrive on a steep south-facing slope where the sun relentlessly basks the vines. The wine spends a year maturing in oak barriques followed by six months in stainless steel tanks. It then ages two years in the bottle. Tiefenbrunner has produced 2,500 bottles of Toren; however, only 2,000 have been brought to market.

South Tyrol does not lack wineries showcasing striking mastery in modern architecture, but there is something especially enchanting about sipping wine in a medieval castle perched below a mountainside.

In the glass, the wine was a thrilling dark red. One could almost get lost in its swirl forgetting to take a sip. It had an exceptional structure with hints of tobacco and blackberry. We enjoyed its velvety layers of dark-fruit flavors and were ready to carve into a steak after our tasting. With its limited production, it is naturally one of Tiefenbrunner’s more expensive wines. $69.

Linticlarus Lagrein Riserva

Our tasting with Christof fittingly concluded with a native red of South Tyrol from Tiefenbrunner’s premium line: Linticlarus. The name Linticlarus is a respectful nod to the area’s winemaking prowess going back to ancient times. It honors a former Roman fortress in Entiklar.

Before tasting, we admired its heavy ruby color and notes of black cherry, vanilla and lightly smoked oak. After a couple of sips, it sprang to life expressing lovely juiciness with smooth tannins and a slightly earthy finish.

This wine came across as very food-friendly. A Lagrein we could easily enjoy with everything from wild game to pizza.

Christof noted their Lagrein comes from one of Tiefenbrunner’s lowest elevation vineyard and ages for a year in small French oak barrels. It then spends another six months in large wooden casks before aging another year in the bottle. You can pick up this beauty for $35.

How to Visit Tiefenbrunner Winery

South Tyrol does not lack wineries showcasing striking mastery in modern architecture, but there is something especially enchanting about sipping wine in a medieval castle perched below a mountainside. Even those who have little interest in wine will find visiting Tiefenbrunner Winery an alluring destination.

The winery lies in South Tyrol’s Unterland (Lowlands) region and is the furthest one south we have visited along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Its location makes it the ideal winery to begin or end your day along the wine road. Set a gentle pace to savor the landscape. Between the steep terraces of vines, you’ll soak in speckles of meadows, forests and orchards.

In addition to visiting Tiefenbrunner, we highly-recommend breezing along the charming cobblestone streets of Margreid where you can see the oldest grapevine in South Tyrol. And if you are in South Tyrol during the holiday season, consider adding Margreid’s Krampus Run to your itinerary.

Tiefenbrunner Winery offers tours with their tastings, but you must book in advance. The winery and eatery are open Monday-Saturday. Hours vary by season.

If a trip to South Tyrol is not in your immediate future, transport yourself to the Tiefenbrunner estate by picking up a bottle. Their expansive portfolio offers wines to fit any budget. We regularly enjoy the Classic Merus Chardonnay. At under $16, we find it twice as good as its price tag.

We would like to give special thanks to Christof Tiefenbrunner for the enchanting tour and tasting!

SAVE TIEFENBRUNNER TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST

Sun-kissed in South Tyrol – Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen

By Kate & Vin 22 Comments

Spend an afternoon in the South Tyrolean capital of Bolzano, and you just may find yourself wondering what is the secret behind the ancient town’s pervading “la dolce vita” spirit.

You might think it’s the 300 days of glorious sunshine pouring over its old world rooftops. Or the quaint romantic sights, markets and cafes dotting nearly every corner. Or you might think it’s the surrounding natural beauty: perhaps the distant spear-tip mountain peaks inviting discovery or the lush Mediterranean flora swaying carefree in the Alpine wind.

Yes, you might think all of this and more, but you’d be wrong.

The answer we found is wine. Lots and lots of delicious wine.

An old saying shared with us more than once while breezily strolling over the cobblestones of Bolzano is, “Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine.”

This truth was never more evident to us than when we embarked on a tour of Kellerei Bozen — a 100+-year-old award-winning winery fantastically carved into a mountainside on the northern end of town.

In this post, we take you behind the scenes of Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bolzano in Italian) to introduce its lovely wines and show you how to visit this must-see architectural marvel while in South Tyrol.

In the Land of Sun, Soul & Swirl

We meandered to Kellerei Bozen from the medieval core of Bolzano. It was a pleasant 40-minute walk under the mellow rays of the early afternoon sun.

The route led us past historic buildings boldly wearing centuries of Italian and German influence, well-manicured parks peppered with sun-loving patrons and bustling arcades adorned with restaurants and shops.

Gradually, the buildings became more sparse. Rock-riddled mountains rolling into the sky joined us on our right. Soon, we were gliding by vineyards gently easing up the slopes. Ahead of us, we noticed an immense bronze-gilded cube shimmering like a beacon for Bacchus amid the vines.

If the cube was indeed a beacon for Bacchus, this was surely the god of wine's bunker.

As we approached the tantalizing structure, we could make out the lines of a grapevine leaf gracing its metallic veneer. It imparted a sleek, stylish flair that made the building appear as a work of art.

A long concrete retaining wall swirled down from the cube meeting us the on the sidewalk where it transitioned into timeworn stacks of stone. On the wall, a sign for Kellerei Bozen announced our arrival.

Kellerei Bozen Wines — Kellerei Bozen’s signature design feature is a majestic vine-leafed cube that illuminates beautifully in the evening.

The astounding design of the winery was fully revealed as we walked towards its entrance. Beyond the gleaming cube, it seemingly blended harmoniously into the earth. Most of the winery’s wizardry laid hidden beneath terraced rows of newly-planted grapevines that careened towards the mountain’s edge. If the cube was indeed a beacon for Bacchus, this was surely the god of wine’s bunker.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Discovering Bolzano – The Gateway to the Dolomites

Two Became One – The Birth of Kellerei Bozen

We walked inside the cube and found Johanna Senn, Kellerei Bozen marketing manager, enthusiastically waiting for us. Naturally, after admiring the winery’s striking design for much of our walk, we began our visit inquiring about the history of the building and Kellerei Bozen.

She led us around the winery grounds while sharing its story. Kellerei Bozen we learned was born from the merger of two historic South Tyrolean wineries. In 2001, St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery came together. The merger brought 224 wine-growing families into a single cooperative — creating one of the largest in South Tyrol.

Kellerei Bozen Winery Operation — Kellerei Bozen remains one of the largest wine cooperatives in South Tyrol thanks to the merger of St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery.

Each winery possessed its own specialty. Established in 1930, the St. Magdalena Winery excelled at producing St. Magdalener ⁠— a red wine made from a blend of Schiava (also known as Vernatsh) and Lagrein grapes. The Gries Winery began 22 years earlier with a focus on cultivating exceptional Lagrein.

Now, we knew why Bolzano is said to swim in wine. Vino practically pours down the mountainsides.

Despite the merger, the wineries continued operating at separate locations until moving to this new mountainside estate in August 2018. The new winery is the result of an Elon Musk-like vision that first began in 2006 and eventually took shape starting in 2016.

Johanna noted the signature design feature of the winery, the vine-leafed cube, artistically symbolizes Kellerei Bozen as a pioneering leader in viticulture innovation and green cultivation. However, the metallic sheathing’s purpose isn’t only decorative. She also shared that it supports the winery’s eco-friendly cooling efforts by filtering sunlight.

The Many Vines of Kellerei Bozen

Next, Johanna led us to the rooftop of the winery where we walked out to the cube’s edge. From here, we enjoyed a sprawling view of Bolzano with the Rosengarten peaks of the Dolomites looming far away on the horizon.

From the rooftop of Kellerei Bozen, marketing manager, Johanna Senn, gave us a sweeping view of the vineyards tumbling to the gates of Bolzano.

Johanna brought our attention to the sea of vineyards swelling to the edges of town. It was astonishing. Now, we knew why Bolzano is said to swim in wine. Vino practically pours down the mountainsides.

From many of these vineyards, Kellerei Bozen cultivates 15 different grape varieties yielding a diverse portfolio of 37 wines with an almost even split between white and red. These grapes arise from 350 hectares (865 acres) at elevations varying between 650+ ft. (200 meters) and 3,280+ ft. (1,000 meters) above sea level. They flourish among numerous microclimates and soil types.

Bolzano Vineyards — Yes, Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine….a view of Bolzano and the sea of vineyards on St. Magdalener hill (©IDM Südtirol-Alto Adige / Clemens Zahn).

Johanna pointed towards the sunny slopes rising into a mountain called Renon just beyond Bolzano. We landed our gaze on an area known as St. Magdalener hill. It is home to Kellerei Bozen’s Schiava grape. The sandy, gravel-like soil and abundance of sunshine make the steep slope perfect for producing easy drinking Schiavas that are elegant and fruit forward.

She then focused our eyes on the vineyards stretching near the winery in a district called Gries. This is where its Lagrein grapes grow. They thrive in the valley bottom amid porous, rich alluvial soil that basks under the steady beat of the sun.

Kellerei Bozen Grape Vines — The future of wine? Newly-planted fungus-resistant grapevines crown the “roof” of Kellerei Bozen.

Johanna noted Kellerei Bozen’s white varietals such as Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio lie in the highest elevation vineyards of Renon and above Bolzano, as well as further south in an area called Missiano.

We asked about the newly planted vines adorning the winery and were surprised to discover they are a new grape varietal called PIWI (A German acronym pronounced “pee-vee”). These naturally fungus-resistant varietals comprise a winemaking experiment Kellerei Bozen is conducting to see if they can viably support its sustainable viticulture practices.

Producing wine with the utmost respect towards the environment and future generations is a governing principle of Kellerei Bozen. Not only do its winegrowers labor rigorously to harvest the best quality grapes, but they also employ green cultivation techniques whenever possible to care for the vine, fruit and soil.

Wine From the Top Down

Kate & Johanna at Kellerei Bozen — Kellerei Bozen is one of the first wineries in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” certification.

This commitment to sustainability does not end at the vineyard. Johanna proudly pointed out the new winery is one of the first in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” seal. This certifies the state-of-art winemaking operation meets strict standards aimed at minimizing resource and energy use. To give us a better sense for what this means, Johanna brought us back inside to reveal what lies beneath the mountain.

Once fermentation is complete the wines descend ever deeper into the earth.

By constructing much of the 65,000+ sq. ft. estate under the earth, Kellerei Bozen can cool its production and maturation areas naturally. For hot water production, the winery burns wood pellets — an efficient renewable energy resource that is carbon neutral. Even the processing of grapes into mouth-pleasing wine is accomplished with an eye on reducing energy use at each step.

The new winery descends several levels allowing gravity to move the grapes from beginning to end. This top-down or vertical production design ensures grapes gently journey through every phase in the most environmentally-friendly manner. Additionally, it enables Kellerei Bozen to elevate the quality of its wines with the ability to isolate individual plot characteristics through a number of vinification tanks and barrels.

Winery Tour — Johanna explains how Kellerei Bozen uses vertical processing to gently transform grapes into world-class wines.

As we followed Johanna down to the first level, she shared that the winery processes its white and red grapes differently. After making their first descent down from the dropping station at the top, white grapes are crushed, pressed and then transported vertically to towering steel fermentation tanks. Red grapes, on the other hand, after destemming and crushing pass directly to much smaller wood barrels and steel tanks.

The reason for this according to Johanna is to facilitate greater contact of the grape must with the skin. This process, known as maceration, means the red grape skins are left to soak in their own juices to soften and release the qualities that give red wine its color, body, mouth-feel and ability to age.

Furthermore, Kellerei Bozen uses a “delestage” fermentation process, also referred to as “rack and return”. After the grape musts, skins and seeds settle at the top of the fermenting container, the winery pumps the wine into a reserve vat. The remaining solids are pressed again with the wine ultimately poured back over the top of the re-pressed skins and seeds. This boosts the color, flavor, tannins and aromas of the wine.

Once fermentation is complete the wines descend ever deeper into the earth. Kellerei Bozen’s maturation cellar is located in the lowest level of the winery. Here, red and white wines age into exemplary form in vast rows of French oak barriques. The large number of barrels allows Kellerei Bozen to separate development of wines to bring about even higher quality vintages.

Within the Cube – Tasting Kellerei Bozen Wines

When we finished touring the cellars, Johanna brought us back upstairs for a tasting in the Vinarius wine shop, located in the gleaming cube at the winery’s front. It offers an enthralling setting to sip and browse Kellerei Bozen’s extensive wine portfolio.

Johanna began our tasting with two whites from Kellerei Bozen’s Selection line, which exhibits the best possible interplay between grape variety, soil texture and microclimate. We followed the whites up with our first introduction to St. Magdalener along with a tasing of the winery’s best seller from its Riserva line (can you guess which wine?).

Kellerei Bozen “Dellago” Weissburgunder (Pinot Bianco). Pinot Bianco discovered its soul in South Tyrol. It was brought to the region from Austria in 1850. The superior soil conditions and wide temperature swings between day and night helped elevate the varietal to world-class esteem. The Dellago from Kellerei Bozen certainly lives up to these lofty expectations.

It hails from the Dellago family vineyards in Missiano to the south and boasts a long list of awards. We noticed green apples on the nose and found it delicious; elegant yet with a fuller body than we anticipated. Johanna shared that part of the wine is aged in French oak imparting a slight creaminess. Because of this, we could definitely see ourselves enjoying it with pasta or chicken dishes. It is nicely priced at $13-$14.

Kellerei Bozen “Mock” Sauvignon. This Sauvignon Blanc was a pleasant surprise. It’s a full-bodied wine, but drank easy. We immediately noticed a scent of elderflower, which always brings a smile to our lips. It was fresh, fruity, tangy with just the right amount of crisp. It’s a complex number born of all steel. Johanna indicated the Mock Sauvignon would make an excellent choice with fish, asparagus and salads. $25-26.

Kellerei Bozen “Moar” St. Magdalener. To say we were excited to sip St. Magdalener for the first time is an understatement. For us, trying new wines in South Tyrol is worth the trip alone. All the snow-crested mountains, centuries-old castles and pristine Alpine lakes are just cherries on top of a visit.

Kellerei Bozen St. Magdalener — The St. Magdalener Moar we purchased met a quick end at our table.

Johanna was our perfect tasting coach. She reminded us St. Magdalener is a blend of 85% Schiava and 15% Lagrein. In the glass, it was similar to ruby red, but in a way exhibited its very own distinct color. Almost as if it were a precious gem only found in South Tyrol.

On the nose and in the mouth, it was fruity, light and offered a medium finish. We enjoyed raspberries with a hint of vanilla thanks to its aging in oak barrels. We appreciated it as another easy drinking red. One we would certainly sip while nibbling on speck and other cold cuts or just while relaxing in the summer. $16-$17.

Kellerei Bozen “Taber Riserva” Lagrein. Not only is this Lagrein Kellerei Bozen’s best seller, but it’s also the winery’s most award-winning wine. It has received the coveted “three glasses” designation from Gambero Rosso for the past 19 years.

The Taber Riserva owes much of its beauty, inside and out, to 80-year old vines springing from the sun-baked soil of Gries, which practically resides right outside the winery’s front door. That’s not to take credit away from the winegrowers or the expert handling of Kellerei Bozen’s highly-regarded winemaker, Stephan Filippi. They contribute just as much to conjuring a Lagrein that is deeply red, intense yet velvety and possessing a roaring chorus of floral, cherry and chocolate notes.

Kate Tasting Lagrein — Kellerei Bozen’s “Taber Riserva” Lagrein has received “3 glasses” from Gambero Rosso each of the past 19 years.

We loved its earthy spiciness. It’s a wine we could uncork every night…if we were dining on red meat or wild game. $38-$40.

We wrapped up our time with Johanna by taking a little of Kellerei Bozen with us. We eagerly purchased a bottle of the St. Magdalener Moar. It was time we made ourselves more familiar with this delightful South Tyrolean red.

How to Visit Kellerei Bozen

You can reach Kellerei Bozen by venturing from old town Bolzano as we did or you can arrive by car or public transport as it is located immediately off the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Parking is available upfront.

On future visits to Kellerei Bozen, we will not likely walk to the winery again for the sake of saving time. However, if you have not explored much of Bolzano there is no better way to do so than by foot. Consider a historic trek to the winery as your first option.

By the way, an unforgettable way to explore the wineries of South Tyrol is to stay at one of the many family-owned wine estates with villas along the wine road. Check out our recent stay at Donà Winery for inspiration.

Kellerei Bozen offers guided tours for small groups. Tour requests must be made prior to visiting. You can embark on a wine tasting every day in the wine shop except on Sundays. The shop is open from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM.

Be sure to ask for Kellerei Bozen at your local wine shop. With 3+ million bottles of wine distributed throughout the U.S. and Europe each year, there’s a good chance you can uncork a bottle or two this weekend.

We would like to give special thanks to Johanna Senn of Kellerei Bozen. We could not have asked for a better introduction to Kellerei Bozen and its exceptional wines!

SAVE KELLEREI BOZEN TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST

Cantina Tramin Wines – Capturing the Soul of the Mountain

By Kate & Vin 20 Comments

Some sights enthrall immediately. They captivate alone with their beauty. Or even with just a soft whisper of their history. Yet the ones that always grip the most are those that entrance you with their mystery.

Such is the Cantina Tramin Winery. Crowning a vine-drenched hilltop overlooking the tantalizing blue waters of Lake Caldaro, the winery is a South Tyrolean sight to behold all on its own. If its evocative design doesn’t stir wonder inside you, check your pulse.

So eclectic is its exterior, Cantina Tramin can’t help but demand the attention of everyone along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. It certainly demanded ours — capturing our eyes before our hearts.

An Unforgettable Encounter

We first came across Cantina Tramin (Kellerei Tramin in German) two years ago while breezing from one wine village to the next. The striking structure of the winery amid the rolling foothills was impossible to ignore. Almost hypnotic. And most definitely a magnet for curious souls like ourselves.

As we had little time between our next scheduled stop, we swung in for a quick look at what appeared to be a modern-day temple built to honor the Ancient Roman god of wine. That quick look turned into a glass of Gewürztraminer recommended to both of us. We surrendered. The sprawling panoramic view unfolding before our eyes from the winery’s terrace was too alluring to not let its wine grace our lips.

Cantina Tramin Tasting Room — One glass of wine on the terrace of the Cantina Tramin Winery tends to turn into many.

We promised ourselves to make a return visit. And this past year we were fortunate to receive a grand behind-the-scenes tour and tasting as impressive as the building itself.

Cultivating a Culture of Cooperation

Our tour began with Sigrid Pichler, brand ambassador of Cantina Tramin. Her enthusiasm for the winery was contagious. She even commented wine was in her blood as she gave us a sweeping history of Cantina Tramin. We didn’t doubt it.

The winery began in 1898 at the helm of Christian Schrott, a parish priest of the picturesque village of Tramin and member of the Austrian parliament. Schrott helped pioneer a thriving cooperative culture that today includes 300 individual winegrowers cultivating 260 hectares (picture roughly 260 baseball or rugby fields) of vineyards.

These vineyards tumble down steep slopes around the nearby villages of Tramin, Neumarkt, Montan and Auer. Some flourish at heights reaching nearly 3,000 feet.

Cantina Tramin is fortunate to have one of the best winemakers in the world.

All of the vines enjoy the benefits of strong temperature swings between day and night. The warmth emanating from Lake Garda to the south and Lake Caldaro to the north begift the grapes sweet-inducing daytime heat relieved by the settling of cool Alpine air in the evenings.

Additionally, the north-south orientation of the mountains allows warm air to flow in from the south during the day. At night brisk winds from the Roen mountain descend almost 7,000 feet onto the valley, dramatically influencing the nighttime temperatures. This allows the grapes to rest. Ultimately contributing to well structured and balanced wines with heavenly aromas.

Cantina Tramin also keeps the grapes on the vines well into autumn, which draws in even more aroma into its vintages.

Each winegrower in the cooperative owns less than a hectare on average. Such small scale vineyards enable Cantina Tramin to produce wines of superior quality thanks to the deep-rooted knowledge the winegrowers possess of their land.

The winery works closely with the growers to optimize each plot sometimes down to even tailoring individual rows. By paying attention to the finest details, Cantina Tramin avoids losing the flavor and acidity cultivated over a season. The result? Wine that is immensely pleasant to drink harvest after harvest.

Excellence from Vine to Bottle

While a strong working relationship with the winegrowers is paramount to the winery’s success, it takes the leadership and vision of a winemaker to bring it all together. Cantina Tramin is fortunate to have one of the best in the world. Wilhelm (Willi), director of winemaking, joined the winery in 1992.

A native of the village of Tramin, he knows the pulse of the area’s vineyards through and through. Willi’s winemaking philosophy has elevated Cantina Tramin’s wines to a class of excellence few can match while also helping Alto Adige / South Tyrol shine as a star producer of high-quality wines.

Wilhelm Sturz of Cantina Tramin — Cantina Tramin’s director of winemaking, Willi Stürz, shares the story behind creating Italy’s first 100-point white wine.

His unique ability to capture the soul of the land in every bottle of Cantina Tramin wine was recognized in 2004 when the renowned Gambero Rosso, Italy’s most trusted wine guide, awarded him Italian Winemaker of the Year.

The recognition of superior quality has continued. Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate, recently awarded the winery’s Epokale Gewürztraminer 100-points — making it the first white wine in Italy to receive such a rating. To give you an idea of the significance of this accomplishment, consider that Robert Parker has tasted 35,000+ Italian wines as a wine critic over 30 years and has awarded 100 points to only 14 of them!

Ripe with Creativity & Tradition

The winery took on its current enigmatic form in 2010. Werner Tscholl, a prominent architect from South Tyrol’s Vinschgau region, designed two additional wings to the existing winery. Tscholl’s final product is a masterpiece in contrasts.

Emulating the contours of vines through glass and steel, Cantina Tramin at once harmonizes with its surroundings while exhibiting its own eye-arresting beauty. The building nicely complements the winery’s winemaking approach by celebrating tradition and creativity.

Cantina Tramin Winery stands apart as a contemporary architectural marvel amid an ancient backdrop (photo: Cantina Tramin).

This marriage between the future and the past is evident in the winery’s portfolio. Sigrid explained how Cantina Tramin splits its wines into two categories: proprietary blends and single varietal. The wines making up the proprietary blend comprise two or more varietals and express Willi’s creative orchestration with respect to each vineyard.

Precise measurement and control of the fermenting climate allow the winery to prevent unwanted evaporation thus elevating the aromatic quality of its wines.

The single varietal wines, on the other hand, reflect the character of the specific grape variety culminating into an ultimate expression of the region. Within both categories, Cantina Tramin offers a Classic Series and a Selections Series of wines.

The Classic Series is where you will find high-quality wines at an excellent value while the Selections Series represents the finest wines Cantina Tramin offers.

Within the Cellars of Cantina Tramin Winery

When Sigrid concluded her spirited introduction to the winery she handed us off to Günther Facchinelli, Cantina Tramin’s public relations and communication manager. Günther passionately shared how the operational side of the winery contributes to producing intensely aromatic wines — a quality characteristic Cantina Tramin has become well known for in the wine world.

Part of the secret lies in treating each grape like a hand-picked precious gem. Upon delivery to the winery, grapes gently ride a conveyor belt to the grape press as opposed to direct handling. This helps preserve their delicate nature ensuring Cantina Tramin can reap the full potential of each grape. After the pressing, the grapes begin vinification.

Grapes of Alto Adige — The small scale plots making up Cantina Tramin’s vineyards allow for gentle hand-harvesting of its grapes.

To show us how Cantina Tramin performs the alchemic magic of transforming grape juice into wine, Günther led us to the lower level of the winery. Here, we walked into a fermentation cellar unlike we had ever seen. The fermentation tanks were hidden behind a wall clad with white tiles, which imparted a cool retro look.

However, the retro vibe was not by design. We found out the tanks were installed when the original building was erected in the 1970s. To preserve the foundation of the building during the recent renovation, Cantina Tramin kept the tanks in place but had some relined with stainless steel — a job not fit for anyone prone to claustrophobia as they had to be refurbished from within.

Günther informed us these tanks are where Cantina Tramin ferments its Lagrein, Merlot and Pinot Nero grapes. The vinification process is monitored closely by man and machine. Precise measurement and control of the fermenting climate allow the winery to prevent unwanted evaporation thus elevating the aromatic quality of its wines.

We followed Günther into another part of the cellar where rows of stainless steel fermentation tanks stood side-by-side like beaming performers on a stage. These types of tanks were more familiar to our eyes. This is where Cantina Tramin’s award-winning whites continue their journey to juicy elegance.

The tanks were at one time larger, but when Willi became the winemaker 30 years ago he switched to smaller tanks. By using smaller tanks, Cantina Tramin can vinify grapes from specific climate zones separately. The potential and the distinctiveness of each micro-area is thus better understood. This helps the winery orient towards ever higher quality with a finer character expression of each individual varietal.

Cantina Tramin's Epokale Gewürztraminer ages for 7 years deep in a silver mountain mine near Sterzing at a height of 6,500 feet.

After touring the fermentation cellars, Günther brought us to a new addition within the winery’s lower level. Behind towering walls of glass fit for a James Bond film set rested dozens of bottled gems from Cantina Tramin aging until some appointed awakening.

Beyond this vintage bottle cellar, we entered a room cast under the soft glow of wine-red ambient lighting. Before us were mighty French oak wine casks followed by stacks of barriques. Günther shared that the new addition is not only for maturing wines, but also a space to host wine tasting events such as when they introduce new vintages. We certainly understood why. The atmosphere made us want to get lost in a bottle.

Cantina Tramin bottling lloperation — Cantina Tramin’s Pinot Grigio zips through the final stages of bottling before labeling and packaging.

Next, Günther led us to a bottling area where machines hummed a steady rhythm as they produced bottle after bottle of Pinot Grigio — Cantina Tramin’s most popular wine for export.

This was our first time watching a wine bottling operation in action. The automated technology behind producing pallets of wine ready to ship was dazzling to witness.

Vine Meets Swirl: Tasting Cantina Tramin Wines

Günther continued our tour by leading us back upstairs to a tasting room offering the same splendid vineyard and mountain views we soaked in on our first visit. The beauty stretching beyond the windows was intoxicating.

But of course, the addition of wine in such a setting makes it even more spectacular. After consuming Cantina Tramin’s history and witnessing the story behind its wines, we were excited to begin the tasting. Here are the highlights.

Wine Tasting with Günther Facchinelli — After the winery tour, Cantina Tramin’s public relations and communications manager, Günther Facchinelli, guided us through a first-rate tasting of its wines.

Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio – Classic Series. As mentioned above, this is the Pinot Grigio Cantina Tramin sells the most of outside of South Tyrol. We can always find it at our favorite local wine shop. The grapes are sourced from vines planted at elevations ranging from 650 to 1,300+ feet. They thrive in calcareous clay and gravelly soil with long days under the sun followed by brisk nights. Vinification in stainless steel preserves the wine’s fresh tropical fruit flavors and elicits the type of elegant finish we really enjoy during the summer months. On the nose, we caught hints of roses and cloves. It is excellent as a sipping wine or to pair with light salads and seafood. We have bought it priced at $15-$16.

Cantina Tramin Unterebner Pinot Grigio – Selections Series. Our first thought after sipping this top end Pinot Grigio from Cantina Tramin is it mirrors summer. Sprinkling it over snow may just be enough to usher in spring after a long winter. The wine gleamed more golden in color than the Classic Series Pinot Grigio. It was also a fuller wine offering a more powerful expression with aromas of pear, vanilla, toast and tobacco due to partial fermentation in oak barrels, which is quite a unique treatment for Pinot Grigio. The finish lingered beautifully. We were surprised to learn it matures for 14 months and has an aging potential of 7 to 10 years. Günther indicated the wine nicely complements smoked fish and white meats. The price on average is $35.

Cantina Tramin Troy Chardonnay – Selections Series. When we first saw “Troy” on the label we assumed an obscure grape varietal connection to the ancient Greek city. Never assume when in South Tyrol. We found out “Troy” means “path” in Rhaetian, an ancient language spoken in the Alps. The name is a fitting representation of the long journey Cantina Tramin has taken to cultivate an exquisite Chardonnay upon the steep slopes of Tramin.

A feat not so easily achieved in mountainous climates. The winery carefully harvests each grape by hand at elevations nearing 2,000 feet. The grapes then ferment in oak barrels resting on the lees for 16 months before maturing another 22 months in stainless steel tanks. The 2015 wears Alpine freshness on its sleeve showing abundant fresh apple and citrus fragrances. We noticed a pleasant burst of mint on the finish. This is definitely a Chardonnay we would give to any lover of the variety even at the price point of $69.

Cantina Tramin Selida Gewürztraminer – Classic Series. “Selida” means “small farmstead”, and reflects Cantina Tramin’s tradition of working with modest-size plot owners. The small origins of this wine payoff in a big presentation. We found it intensely aromatic with an equally intense yellow color. Its bouquet swirls with roses and mangos. Spicy and sweet in flavor, it would be a fun Alpine wine to sip with sushi. Selida is priced at around $13-$14.

Cantina Tramin Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer – Selections Series. The Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer from Cantina Tramin elevated the notion of fragrant wine to a whole new level for us. We noticed it right out of the bottle. Like the Unterebner, it is a more powerful expression in the winery’s portfolio. This wine whisks you through a garden of aromas and flavors from lilies and ginger to mango, peach, golden apple, apricot and melon. Günther noted Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer complements many dishes such as seafood and Asian as well as blue cheese. We thought it would make an excellent companion to smoked turkey. It is another white from Cantina Tramin that ages gracefully — up to 15 years. $40.

Cantina Tramin Epokale Gewürztraminer – Selections Series. When a wine becomes the first white in Italy to score 100 points, you better believe there is a story behind it. The Epokale Gewürztraminer is born from two of the oldest vineyards in Tramin and a whole lot of darkness.

Epokale ages for 7 years deep in a silver mountain mine near Sterzing at a height of 6,500 feet. The shaft of the mine gives Gewürztraminer a flawless environment to mature in over a course of years as it experiences consistent temperature, humidity and pressure.

The outcome of being trapped in a silver mine for nearly a decade is what can only be described as pure liquid gold.

Cantina Tramin Epokale Gewurtztraminer — After 7 years, the soul of the mountain emerges. Cantina Tramin winemakers carry out the first vintage of Epokale Gewürztraminer.

The 2009 Epokale is the most unique Gewürztraminer we have ever sipped. Exceptionally sweet and smooth all at once. An exceedingly rare wine perfectly balanced to delight all your senses. Getting a bottle is not easy. It is mainly sold to restaurants and in only a few wine shops. Naturally, it comes with a steep price as well at $99+.

Cantina Tramin Maglen Pinot Noir – Selections Series. This high-elevation Pinot Noir stuns on the nose. We delighted in cherries and raspberries. It has a pale ruby color with a bit of a spicy feel in the mouth. The Maglen matures for 12 months in French oak, followed by 6 more months in massive oak casks. We would consider this a crisp, easy-drinking red and could see ourselves enjoying it with various pasta dishes. $40

Cantina Tramin Lagrein — Swirling a glass of ruby-red Lagrein from Alto Adige is one of the simple pleasures in life.

Cantina Tramin Urban Lagrein – Selections Series. The top Lagrein from Cantina Tramin should be a part of your next dinner involving red meats lightly flipped on the grill, wild game or if you’re treating yourself to something as simple as pizza. This wine wows with its ruby color, velvety mouthfeel, fruity flavor with hints of cocoa and full-bodied structure. It matures for 12 months in French oak barrels followed by another 6 months in concrete tanks. After bottling, the Urban Lagrein matures in the bottle an additional 6 months. The price on average is $40.

How to Visit Cantina Tramin

To really savor the essence of these stunning wines, add Cantina Tramin to your South Tyrol trip itinerary. As you can see through this post, the winery is remarkable inside and out. Trust us, spending a day along the South Tyrolean Wine Road with a stop at Cantina Tramin is a relaxing break from hiking in the mountains. The winery sits directly off the wine road between the wine villages of Tramin and Caldaro.

The Cantina Tramin tasting room opens at 9 am Monday through Saturday. You can also book guided tours at their reception area or in advance by contacting the winery.

Of course, you do not have to visit South Tyrol to sip the wines of Cantina Tramin. The winery exports much of its portfolio around the world. And with 1.9 million bottles produced each year, there’s a good chance you can locate Cantina Tramin in a wine shop near you. If not, they can be purchased online at various wine merchants such as Wine.com.

We would like to give special thanks to Sigrid Pichler, Günther Facchinelli and Willi Stürz for sharing the story and wines of Cantina Tramin. Their extensive time with us is greatly appreciated!

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A Swirl with Antiquity – Visiting the Abbey of Novacella

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only one can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world. Nestled just to the north of South Tyrol’s oldest town lies the Abbey of Novacella (also known as “Abbazia di Novacella” in Italian and “Kloster Neustift” in German).

This cultural treasure near Brixen was founded in 1142 — more than 875 years ago. It is among the most stunning historic destinations in South Tyrol. A symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid rolling vineyards and forested slopes.

Anyone admiring the Abbey of Novacella, from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The monastery boasts a labyrinth of structures, courtyards and walls showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo character from various epochs.

The history of Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Wandering the Vines of Novacella

We arrived at the Abbey of Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

Neustift Monastery Castle — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbey of Novacella.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks.

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery.

We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Abbey of Novacella Winery Vineyards — The vineyards of the Abbey of Novacella tumble down slopes to the foot of the monastery. Ancient dry stone walls ease the steepness and act like a furnace for the vines during the cool evenings.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of the Abbey of Novacella (officially labeled as “Abbazia di Novacella” in your wine shop) are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle “it’s better to have less but good”.

Elias Holzer and Kate discussing Novacella wines — Novacella sommelier, Elias Holzer, explaining the winemaking principles of the Abbey of Novacella (also commonly known as Neustift Monastery). Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast from the historic builings.

Following this tenet has guided Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. Novacella began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Admiring the historic Abbey of Novacella garden (also known as Neustift Monastery) — Admiring the natural splendor of the Abbey of Novacella garden.

We wandered on until overlooking the historical gardens of Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess gingko trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

Becoming One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land bearing virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Novacella expanded their operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

The winery of Abbazia di Novacella lies beneath our feet. — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us.

According to Elias, Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” Novacella even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water to precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

Abbazia di Novacella Wine Production — Elias shares how Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touch screen interface, Novacella sets the temperature of its stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

A Stroll Through the Ages

We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbey of Novacella Church Ceiling — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbey of Novacella church is among the finest in South Tyrol.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Striking Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

Towards the end of World War II all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Abbey of Novacella Wunderbrunnen — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean breads.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born from the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an every-day wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Elias promised that to taste it once, is to remember it forever. He was absolutely right.

Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to the Abbey of Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

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Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

What is your idea of romance? A candlelight dinner? A moonlit stroll? How about sipping delicious wines amongst crumbling castles and breath-stealing mountain views? Such a place exists — and best of all you do not have to suffer a romance novel to experience it.

IF YOU ARE not familiar with the wine country of South Tyrol, spending a day cruising along its famous Wine Road makes for an excellent introduction. This mellow roadway unfurls with pure Mediterranean bliss — winding gently from one vine-drenched hill to the next.

Stately manors in regal poses pop amid the fruited scape — painting a seductive scene that would make even Casanova blush. But as nice as it is to drive along the Wine Road, we discovered that to really appreciate the unique culture of South Tyrol’s Alpine wines, nothing tops staying at a boutique winery perched beneath the peaks.

In this post, we introduce you to the lovely Donà Winery (officially Weingut Donà in German) — a charming family-owned wine estate situated near the historic wine village of Eppan. In addition to romancing grapevines into mouth-dazzling wines, the estate also offers guests a chance to relax amid vineyards while enjoying the lofty company of the Dolomites and Alps. As you’ll see, staying in a place surrounded by such beauty is an experience unlike any other.

Escape to the Vines

Passing the village of San Paolo on the drive to Donà Winery.

Thanks to a canceled flight and the inevitable outcome of lost luggage, it was evening by the time we turned up the road toward Weingut Donà. Since night had fallen, we were grateful to have rows of grapevines guiding us in the headlights until reaching the villa parking lot. Without these leafy blessings of Bacchus who knows where we would have wound up.

The apartment's rustic adornments were complemented by contemporary touches — perfectly marrying Tyrolean charm with Italian flair.

While getting out of our car, we spotted a stone ruin softly bathed in amber lighting high up on the mountain behind Donà Winery. What ancient wonder loomed overhead we wondered?

As we arrived later than our scheduled check-in time, Martina Waldner Donà, the owner of Weingut Donà, gave us instructions to locate the keys to our villa apartment. Walking in was immediately pleasing to our travel-weary legs and eyes.

Warm alpine wood accents greeted us. These rustic adornments were complemented by contemporary touches — perfectly marrying Tyrolean charm with Italian flair. The thoughtfully curated decor and furnishings gave the apartment a spacious yet cozy look.

We fell in love with a dining nook tucked into the corner of the kitchen by a window. The thought of sipping a cup of coffee there in the morning while spying mountain-born treasures out the window was enticing.

But first, we needed some serious rest. We both fell into bed and let the weight of the day’s travel troubles sink us into a deep sleep.

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A Ring of Mountains

The following morning arrived in a blink. We awoke to the dawning sun pouring through the apartment’s windows. Back home, we would have pulled the covers over our head to catch another wink. But while in South Tyrol, we welcome every single ray.

A balcony off the living room provided the first daylight peek of our surroundings. Grapevines encircled us. In the western horizon, just beyond the rooftops of Bolzano, stood the snow-blessed peaks of the Dolomites.

But the majestic mountain views did not end with the Pale Mountains. The Texel Group of the Italian Alps beamed with morning splendor to the north of Lana and Merano. To the east and south, rose the sandy-hued ridges and crags of the Mendola mountain range.

Kate admiring the centuries-old Hocheppan Castle high above Weingut Donà.

We stepped outside to get a sunlit view of the winery. Its stucco facade gleamed amid the vines. As if the setting wasn’t already swooning with enough romance, a castle gripped the mountainside above us. The mystery from the night before fully revealed.

Castle hunting in South Tyrol demands steady legs.

The look of awe on our faces must have been rather obvious as we were soon greeted with a knowing smile by Martina Donà. She warmly introduced herself while sharing that the castle was called “Hocheppan”.

Castle Hocheppan is one of many medieval ruins near Donà.

We were somewhat familiar with this medieval fortress as we knew its 13th-century chapel held the earliest known fresco depicting a man eating one of our favorite Tyrolean dishes: knödel (dumplings).

As self-proclaimed castle hunters, we immediately asked Martina if it was possible to reach Hocheppan. She said it certainly was by foot, but that the interior was closed for the season. That did not matter to us. A good trek is always on our mind in South Tyrol. Hiking to Castle Hocheppan became a must-do while staying at Weingut Donà.

The snow-capped peaks of the Texel Group soar beyond the vineyards of Weingut Donà.

Martina shared a bit more about possible sights of interest near her winery. Her joy in sharing South Tyrol was only rivaled by her enthusiasm for wowing guests. She made us feel right at home immediately.

Before heading back inside to get ready for a day trip to Bolzano, we scheduled a winery tour and tasting with her the day after our castle hike. Hiking up a mountain the same day as a wine tasting did not seem wise. Castle hunting in South Tyrol demands steady legs.

Savoring South Tyrol’s Wine Culture

The morning after our castle hike was just as gorgeous as the previous two. We savored the sunlight pouring in again while nibbling on fresh Schüttelbrot that Martina graciously left us the day before. If you are not familiar with Schüttelbrot, it is an Alpine-spiced rye flatbread that is a crispy treat common in South Tyrol.

Martina at Weingut Dona — Martina points out the significance of the mountain silhouette on the Weingut Donà logo.

Afterward, a stroll through the vineyard just outside our door was too tempting to pass up. If you have never meandered through a vineyard in the early morning light, make a point to add it to your South Tyrol bucket list. Watching the evening’s mist lift off a canopy of vines as sunlight streaks across the mountain is a sight you will not forget.

Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà's Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry.

Shortly after our walk, Martina arrived greeting us with a bag of freshly picked apples from one of Weingut Donà’s orchards. Immediately sinking into their juiciness was tempting, but we had another fruit to tango with first. She led us below the villa to a boutique wine operation and cellar.

As we toured the winery, Martina shared that Weingut Donà is a family-run wine estate founded by her and husband Hansjörg Donà (both pictured above). Hansjörg spent several years working as a winemaker for other respected wineries in the region — eventually heeding the call to make his own distinct wine mark in South Tyrol.

Bringing together skills, passions and a savvy for recognizing opportunity, Martina and Hansjörg set out to produce exceptional wines that reflect the spirit of the Alps. What’s more, by offering accommodations on the estate, they realized a life-long dream of intimately sharing South Tyrol’s unique wine culture with guests.

Weingut Dona Fermentation Tanks — A handful of stainless steel fermentation tanks at the winery result in a remarkable amount of reds and whites — 30,000 bottles each year.

When asked what differentiates her winery from others in South Tyrol, Martina stressed the family’s ability to keep a long-term perspective in all that they do. Weingut Donà pays sharp attention to the details that matter in the vine, barrel, bottle and glass.

The estate delicately balances the right touch of leading-edge technology with age-old techniques including careful cultivation by hand. This progressive yet traditional approach ensures Weingut Donà produces only the best wines year after year. The industry has taken notice — granting several coveted awards across the winery’s portfolio.

After admiring the stainless steel tanks in Weingut Donà’s fermentation cellar, Martina led us to an enchanting tasting room lined with French oak barrels. These classic “barriques” do far more than impart a romantic ambiance. The winery also uses them to mature its wines.

While lingering to enjoy the sweet aroma of grapes swirling about the room, Martina shared with us that almost 4 hectares (roughly 10 acres) of vineyards surround the winery. Furthermore, Weingut Donà vinifies grapes from another vineyard near the village of Dorf Tirol to the north. This mountainside plot is the source of the winery’s award-winning Sauvignon Blanc.

In the bottle cellar, Martina pointed out Weingut Donà’s full portfolio. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, other Donà varietals include Chardonnay, Vernatsch, Lagrein and Merlot. Sold mostly to hotels and restaurants in South Tyrol, consumers can also purchase the wines the estate’s wine shop.

Swirling With Donà Wines

We began our tasting with Weingut Donà’s Terlaner Chardonnay. Typically, we skip over Chardonnays when at a wine shop, but the Chardonnay from Weingut Donà was a masterpiece. It was nicely balanced. Both crisp and lush imparting hints of green-apple flavors.

Next, Martina poured their Vernatsch (also known as Schiava). This varietal has really grown on us during our time in South Tyrol. The Vernatsch was as delicious as any we have tried. Martina indicated that after 5 years of producing it, Weingut Donà won the top award for Vernatsch in Italy. We could easily see ourselves drinking it at any time of year.

We followed the Vernatsch with Weingut Donà’s Lagrein. Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà’s Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry. Lagrein always pleasantly surprises as it is lighter than its color would suggest.

Our final wine was a Lagrein Merlot blend. This beauty was new to us. Martina paired the wine with a hard Parmesan-like cheese from Mila — a local dairy producer that creates authentic Alpine flavors by using milk only from South Tyrol cows. We consider South Tyrolean milk the best in the world so naturally, every bite was a delight.

The Lagrein Merlot itself was excellent. The Merlot lent a more bold character that danced with subtle fruit flavors.

Such over-the-top hospitality made us feel like family.

With a big smile, Martina made our “sample” a full pour and we all toasted to an exquisite tasting. It’s not every day we sip wine in the morning, but Martina was such fun to be around we would uncork a bottle anytime with her.

Martina took us on a grand journey through her family’s world-class wines.

We highly recommend all who stay at Weingut Donà to embark on a guided tour and tasting if the opportunity allows it. You will come away with a heartfelt appreciation for the hard work, passion and pure joy the Donàs put into winemaking.

Familylike Hospitality You Will Cherish

After the wine tasting, Martina gave us a tour of the largest apartment at Weingut Donà. It was even more enamoring than our own.

Gorgeously decorated throughout and offering sweeping balcony views to die for, this spacious rental sleeps up to 6 guests. Wine lovers looking for a getaway with friends or family should definitely consider booking here.

Before leaving Martina to enjoy a visit to Merano, she gave us a restaurant recommendation in nearby Lana — an alluring town known as the California of the Alps. She even took the time to call the owner ensuring a table would be available.

Martina then made another call to her daughter, Franziska, informing her we would be parking our car at their other holiday apartments across from the restaurant. Such over-the-top hospitality made us feel like family.

we took a seat on the terrace to watch the setting sun gild the vines in gold.

After a brief car ride, we arrived in Lana and met Franziska. She was just as gracious as her mother. Franziska made sure we understood how to find the alley-side restaurant, as well as spent time sharing key sights in Lana we might want to explore.

By the time we arrived at the restaurant, 1477 Reichhalter, we were craving a serious meal. Funny how wine before lunch tends to do that. We sat in a small dining room resembling an old farmhouse inn.

Despite the traditional country ambiance, our hunger talked us into splitting the meals between Italian and South Tyrolean. Both were more than satisfying. If it wasn’t for being full, we just might have immediately reordered a second round of the dishes.

Sipping Vernatsch while relaxing on Donà Winery’s sun terrace.

We returned to Weingut Donà in the early evening picking up where we left off with Martina. With a bottle of Donà’s award-winning Vernatsch and two glasses in hand, we took a seat on the terrace to watch the setting sun gild the vines in gold. Ending the day this way was the only choice.

How to Experience Weingut Donà

BOOKING OPTIONS FOR WEINGUT DONÀ: The winery offers apartments for up to 4 guests. The two larger villa options can sleep up to 6 guests. Dogs are permitted in the apartments for an additional charge, but not allowed in the villas. Rates are very affordable and vary by season. Explore Weingut Donà booking options and availability for the dates of your holiday travel.

REACHING WEINGUT DONÀ: Getting to Donà is easy. The winery is conveniently accessible via the Autostrada whether arriving in South Tyrol from the south or north. It is located along the South Tyrolean Wine Road within minutes of Eppan (Appiano). Guests can check-in beginning at 2 p.m.

WHEN TO VISIT WEINGUT DONÀ: The winery’s apartments and villas are available to guests year-round. Deciding on when to visit is a personal choice. We stayed in late fall and loved seeing the winery transitioning between autumn and winter. However, experiencing Weingut Donà in spring or summer would be equally beautiful.

A stay at Weingut Donà in autumn immerses you in vineyards ablaze with shades of crimson and gold.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES AROUND WEINGUT DONÀ: Plenty of adventure and history lies right outside the winery — making the estate the ideal “choose your own adventure” destination. We highly recommend trekking the Three Castles Walk which carries you through vineyards and forests to the gates of three mountainside medieval gems. In addition, you can explore other remarkable wineries along the Wine Road, as well as visit the chic capital of Bolzano (a 15-minute drive).

If you’re willing to go a bit further north, you can also take in the natural and historic wonders of Lana and Merano. Both are less than 30 minutes from the estate.

And if you are aching to go hiking in the Dolomites, you can be among the stony giants in just 30-40 minutes. From the winery, you can admire the spires of the Rosengarten and Schlern so don’t be surprised if the mountains call!

Additional photos of Weingut Donà credited to Florian Andergassen.