South Tyrol Wines & Wineries

Legend has it, dwarves mined treasures from the Dolomites long ago. Fortunately, they left behind a bounty of fertile land that the Prackfol Wine Farm magically transforms into mouth-dazzling vino.

South Tyrol remains a tightly-shut treasure chest to much of the world. And that’s what makes it all the sweeter anytime we can reveal to you pearls within like the Prackfol Wine Farm (Prackfolerhof) in Völser Aicha. Such lucky finds during our wanderings are like marveling at the night sky and catching a star shooting across the horizon.

Prackfol landed on our South Tyrol bucket list after visiting the castled estate of Tiefenbrunner Winery along the South Tyrolean Wine Road two autumns ago. On that day, Christof Tiefenbrunner regaled us with a story about a special vineyard lying at the foot of the Dolomites. He shared that his premier Sauvignon Blanc arises from this fabled soil.

While we had experienced our fair share of wineries in South Tyrol, the chance to sip wine at one in the shadow of the “Pale Mountains” skyrocketed to the top of our travel plans. As you’ll discover, it should be on yours as well.

Treasure of the Rosengarten

Reaching Prackfol Wine Farm is a sight-seeing adventure all its own. Tucked between the Dolomites’ Mt. Schlern and the Rosengarten Group to the east and the Latemar Group to the south, Prackfol sits at the end of a long road that descends gently into the densely forested Tiers Valley.

Gazing across the valley during our drive was like looking upon the verdant canopy of a mountain-jangled jungle. A lush mantle of pines, larches and chestnut groves painted the mountainside in broad brushstrokes of jade with the occasional gilded burst of autumn.

Before arriving, we halted at the top of a steep slope bejeweled by grapevines soaking in every beam of the wooing October sun. On the distant horizon, the titanic walls of the Rosengarten gleamed almost silver and gold. The brazen peaks of Tschainer, Rotwand and Teufelswand stood at more than 9,000 feet dutifully waiting to perform their theater of alpenglow at dusk.

Below us, sandwiched between two mountainsides, sat the solitary farmstead of Prackfol. Perched above the valley floor at nearly 2,000 ft., the farm boasts a bucolic postcard scene among the best of any winery in South Tyrol. We fell immediately in love with their heavenly views, which were even more pronounced by the colors of the season.

Working A Land of Plenty

Upon our arrival, we were met in front of the farmhouse by Petra and Patrick Planer, a young couple who are the 4th generation to run the wine farm. They along with up to 10 helping hands during harvest carry on a 400-year legacy of producing delicious homemade wines.

Our tour began by walking past the winery directly above a sun-steeped vineyard that tumbled into the reaches of the valley gorge. As we paused to take in the panorama, Petra noted their vineyards tease elevations of 3,000 feet and total five hectares (12 acres) from which they produce 20,000 bottles each year.

Blessed by the pure mountain air, steady bouts of glorious sunshine and rich, glacial-born soil made even more fruitful by Alpine snowmelt, Prackfol’s vineyards have long been recognized as producing great wines.

From its earliest beginnings, the farm has cultivated wines celebrated in South Tyrol for their liveliness and elegance. In fact, according to Petra, their ancestral vintages were held in such high regard the nobility of Prösels Castle — one of South Tyrol’s most stunning fortresses — made Prackfol the wine of choice.

Pointing to the faraway mountain peaks, Petra shared that the Dolomites contribute more than beauty to the farm. “At night, the mountains cool our vines giving them relief from very warm daytime temperatures,” she said. “During the day, our vines also benefit from hot air soaring in from the valley of Bolzano.” Such extremes radically influence the ripening of the grapes helping foster characteristics unique to Prackfol.

As we walked on, Patrick, the vintner of the wine farm, plucked a cluster of Sauvignon Blanc grapes for us to try. We popped the green jewels of caged sunlight into our mouths and savored the burst of sweetness on our lips.

Eventually, we wandered over to a wood platform jutting out of the mountainside. While we jokingly thought that might be where Patrick orchestrates a symphony of picking order to the seasonal harvesters below, Petra informed us it is a place for guests to take in the sweeping views from a unique vantage point.

We discovered that in addition to being a wine farm, Prackfol is a farm stay. Guests can spend their holidays in South Tyrol wiling away in one of three fully-equipped apartments located in the farmhouse. We imagine waking up in a room perfumed by the natural bloom of grapevines in the sight of the Dolomites, to be just about anyone’s idea of paradise.

As if the vines and views are not enough to entice one to stay, Prackfol also sits directly along the newly founded Oachner Höfeweg — a thematic trail teeming with natural and cultural sights of the Alpe di Siusi region.

Beyond the viewing platform, Petra and Patrick led us to an opening in a forest where the trail tunneled under a tabernacle of leaves. Petra revealed that it runs past several ancient farmsteads, and mountainside taverns, as well as the Prösels Castle, mentioned earlier. Farms? Taverns? Castles? We committed on the spot to hike the Oachner Höfeweg the next day.

Where the Mountain Breathes

After touring the vineyards and receiving an overview of Prackfol’s viticultural practices, we followed Petra and Patrick to Prackfol’s winemaking operation adjoining the farmhouse. Recently expanded to give them more production capacity, Prackfol’s new facility orients to a more sustainable future while also firmly rooting itself in age-old winemaking tradition.

A new vinification cellar makes use of gravity to fill several stainless steel tanks instead of a pump. This not only protects the grapes but also embraces the forces of nature to efficiently transform them from fruit to fine wine.

Keeping the historic past a part of Prackfol’s identity was paramount to Petra and Patrick during the renovation. “Our farm was first mentioned in 1429,” said Petra as we stepped into Prackfol’s timeworn aging cellar. It was stacked with French oak barriques busily staying put allowing the hand of time to impart the wood’s wisdom into the wine. “Part of these cellar walls still hold stones from the original building.”

Patrick pulled the cork (officially known as a bung) from the stave of a barrique and used a wine thief to draw a sample of wine. He excitedly announced that he would bring their “Nuier” (young wine) to our tasting.

Before venturing to Prackfol’s tasting room, Petra led us from the aging cellar to their retired cellar in another building on the farm. Here, she showed us how Prackfol ingeniously harnesses the mountain terrain to naturally air condition the wine farm.

The old walls of the cellar held “Eislöcher” (ice holes) which channel cool air circulating beneath beds of boulders under the mountainside. Reaching into the ice holes of the cellar one can feel the mountain’s wintry breath. Petra noted they use a tunnel to siphon the roughly 13 °C (55 °F) air from the old cellar to the rest of the farm.

Tasting Prackfol Wines

Prackfol’s tasting room is entirely new and is situated along the Oachner Höfeweg inviting hikers to give their legs a break while sampling the farm’s wine. While still under final construction during our visit, the tasting room was gracefully decorated complementing Prackfol’s modern vision with an endearing eye toward the past.

Petra began our tasting with a South Tyrolean classic: Vernatsch (also known as Schiava). Labeled as Patrick Planer’s Südtiroler Vernatsch, we had to inquire about the bottle’s novel artwork before taking our first sip.

It depicts two cartoonish monks sampling the wine from a barrique. Petra relayed that all of their wine labels showcase paintings by Hans Kompatscher— a beloved Tyrolean artist with a notable collection of artwork on display at nearby Romantik Hotel Turm.

Prackfol chose the monk scene for its Südtiroler Vernatsch as the wine is popular with South Tyrolean churches. Their Vernatsch is particularly rare in the region because it is one of the few that is comprised of 99% of the grape. We found it eminently smooth like a soothing sax solo you get lost in a late-night jazz lounge.

Next, we tasted Patrick Planer’s Südtiroler Sauvignon, Petra’s personal favorite of their portfolio. This specialty of Prackfol is also the farm’s most abundantly produced wine.

As raving fans of Sauvignon Blanc, we thoroughly enjoyed Prackfol’s distinct take on the wine, from its plush bouquet to its mineralic-tingle to its lofty finish. Petra explained the wine’s riveting personality was due partly to the vineyard’s rooting in morainic terrain rich in minerals. She noted that after harvest their Sauvignon spends 5 months vinifying in stainless steel tanks and another 2-3 months in the bottle before going to market.

After delighting in Prackfol’s Sauvignon Blanc, Petra poured the farm’s Südtiroler Blauburgunder (also known as Pinot Noir and Pinot Nero). In the glass, it shimmered a crimson brilliance clearly paying homage to the red plumes of the Tyrolean eagle. Our first impression on the nose was a hint of blackberry. In the mouth, it was full and juicy — a pleaser for patios and dinner tables no matter the occasion.

The last tasting of our visit was a true treat. Patrick brought us a pitcher of the “Nuier” as promised. This young version of Prackfol’s Sauvignon Blanc hovered between juice and wine and was remarkably delicious, tasting fresh like a green-tinged banana.

Finally, with the crowning pours of the “Nuier”, we raised our glasses high finishing our fascinating tour of Prackfol. Petra and Patrick could not have been more gracious hosts. We were sad to depart such a lovely place, but ever grateful for the time they gave us — especially during the grueling hustle of the season’s harvest!

Experience South Tyrol’s Wine Culture at Prackfolerhof

GETTING TO PRACKFOLERHOF: Völser Aicha, the village where you will find Prackfolerhof, is 20-30 minutes away from Bolzano by car. If you are staying elsewhere in the Alpe di Siusi region, you can be on the wine farm within 10-15 minutes.

A more adventurous way to reach Prackfolerhof is by trekking the Oachner Höfeweg, which you can begin from a parking lot below Prösels Castle. We will be covering this hike in detail for you in a future post.

WHEN TO VISIT PRACKFOLERHOF: Guests can visit the Prackfol Wine Farm on Tuesdays for tastings. Tours are also possible at times but must be booked in advance. If you’re interested in a cozy stay on the farm, the apartments are available for booking all year.

Make an inquiry on a tour or accommodations by contacting Petra and Patrick through the Prackfolerhof website.

HOW LONG TO PLAN FOR AT PRACKFOLERHOF: If you are visiting for a tasting, plan to spend an hour enjoying the wines and strolling the vineyards. If you intend to include a visit to Prackfol Wine Farm via the Oachner Höfeweg allow a half-day for the full experience.

WHERE TO PURCHASE PRACKFOL WINES: The best place to purchase Petra and Patrick’s wines is right at the farm. If that is not possible, you can find their wines throughout South Tyrol. Be sure to ask for a bottle when dining. Their wines can also be found in Germany and throughout Italy.

Besides supporting a family-owned farm, each purchase helps fortify the community of independent winegrowers in South Tyrol. The region currently has 100 such boutique producers.

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Tiefenbrunner Winery is among the oldest wineries in South Tyrol. Discover why wine and castle lovers alike will adore this historic estate reigning over the vineyards of Entiklar.

If wine is indeed “bottled poetry” as it has been said, the five generations of family running the Tiefenbrunner Winery (also known as the Schlosskellerei Turmhof Wine Estate) have composed a sweeping saga. Winemaking as a true expression of art has never been more apparent than during our visit to this celebrated wine estate.

Tucked between the ancient villages of Kurtatsch (Cortaccia) and Margreid (Magrè) in the hamlet of Entiklar (Niclara), the Tiefenbrunner Winery is among the oldest in South Tyrol. It sits upslope from the South Tyrolean Wine Road amidst a seemingly endless regiment of grapevines. They swoop down in rows from the foothills of the Fennberg mountain plateau leaving no doubt: wine is the ruler of this bountiful land.

The winery itself was officially registered in 1848. But the winemaking heritage of the area goes back thousands of years to the Rhaetia period — 500 years before the ascent of the Ancient Roman Empire in the Alps.

From Castle to Cask

Tiefenbrunner Winery welcomes you from a forested enclave like a scene lifted from a romance novel. The ornate story unfolding over the walls of Castel Turmhof, where the winery calls home, greets you in spellbinding fashion.

Any thoughts you are here only for a wine tasting, quickly dissipate. You realize Tiefenbrunner is as much a historic destination as it is a winery. It’s impossible not to be enamored by the antiquity before you.

After our arrival, we stood in awe studying the castle’s architectural details and bemusing murals before being met by the owner, Christof Tiefenbrunner.

The regal lines of the manor made us feel almost as if we were standing before royalty. But Christof’s gracious, down-to-earth demeanor quickly put us at ease. Christof and his wife, Sabine, opened a new chapter in the winery’s long history in 2000 when they took it over from his father who presided over its remarkable growth since 1968.

Before leading us into the heart of the operation, he gave us a tour of the estate’s grounds. We discovered the castle lorded over the cultivation of grapes since at least 1225 when it was first documented in land records as the “Linticlar estate”. The Tiefenbrunner family began its legacy at the estate in 1675 eventually christening it “Castel Turmhof”.

As we passed by a grotto with a waterfall splashing into a shallow pool, Christof pointed to fantastical sculptures peeking from rocky coves and nooks. His great-great-grandfather, Johann Tiefenthaler, beautified the castle with ponds and enchanting works of art more than 150 years ago. The figures from biblical and ancient mythology added a touch of whimsy to the historic site.

Vines a Thousand Years Wide

Christof brought us to an open-air courtyard where the winery burrowed into the mountainside. Grape leaves gilded autumn gold swelled overhead toward the towering cliffs of Fennberg mountain.

Growing demand for Tiefenbrunner’s portfolio of wines in the 1980s meant expanding the winery’s operational footprint. But instead of building outward they built downward; beneath the vineyards. By doing so, they were able to protect the historic value of the castle and its grounds.

Today, Tiefenbrunner cultivates roughly 25 acres of grapevines on the slopes near the winery along with nearly 40 more acres between Kurtatsch and Margreid. Together, they comprise 25 vineyards sitting at elevations from 820 feet to an astounding 3,280 feet above sea level. In fact, Tiefenbrunner’s flagship white, “Feldmarschall Von Fenner” Müller-Thurgau, begins its ascent to greatness from one of the highest vineyards in Europe.

Many of Tiefenbrunner’s vineyards cling to southerly-facing slopes where they enjoy a winemaker’s dream: dramatic temperature swings between night and day and loamy soil rich with limestone.

The effects are practically alchemic in nature. The warm winds during the day induce ripening, but the chilly mountain breezes in the evening stop it in its tracks conserving acidity. This phenomenon paired with the artful tending of grapevines by expert hands allows Tiefenbrunner to ripen grapes with uncanny precision.

Christof shared that he also sources grapes from 50 or so small growers around South Tyrol including vineyards at the foot of the Dolomites’ Schlern mountain — South Tyrol’s emblematic peak.

Whether planting new vines or cultivating old, Tiefenbrunner maintains close bonds with each grower ensuring the distinct personality of the plot comes to full fruition in the most environmentally sound manner possible. Its eco-minded commitment to winemaking is not a reflection of the latest feel-good fad, but a part of Tiefenbrunner’s heritage and principal operating philosophy. For more than 100 years, the winery has sustainably obtained all of its electricity through its own hydropower plant.

Beneath the Golden Crown

We followed Christof into the winery where he walked us through its bottling and packaging operation. From there, we entered Tiefenbrunner’s winemaking cellars. Here, he stressed the lengths Tiefenbrunner goes to imprint the terroir’s character on each grape varietal.

The winery transforms its grape juice into world-class wines through four vinification and aging practices. Vinification occurs in large stainless steel tanks, concrete vats and immense wooden casks followed by aging in French oak barriques as well as in the bottle. This allows Christof and his winemaker, Stephan Rohregger, to cull the definitive virtues of its wines with a demanding degree of accuracy and quality.

The result is excellence in expression year after year across Tiefenbrunner’s four lines of wines: Selection Vigna, Selection Linticlarus, Selection Turmhof and Classic Merus. Each line meets the discerning tastes of markets around the world with the Selection Vigna line representing the winery’s Grand Cru.

The first-rate quality Tiefenbrunner releases have not gone unnoticed by the wine industry elite. Renowned wine critic, James Suckling, consistently includes Tiefenbrunner wines in his annual Top 100 Italian Wines list. This is no small feat considering he samples 3,000+ Italian wines each year.

We ventured further into the winery to a 400-year-old cellar that at one time in the castle’s storied history held cows. Any sign of our hooved friends was long gone as oak barrels now filled the cool air of the room. And shared a much more pleasant aroma than in ages past.

Our tour continued up a set of stairs to another courtyard where a 280-year-old yew tree gnarled toward the sky. Christof ducked us into a gorgeous stone-pine paneled room inviting guests to enjoy an assortment of local specialties from speck to sausages to cheese to homemade bread while sipping on Tiefenbrunner’s wines.

We then descended again beneath the castle to the Wolkenstein Cellar — an 800-old cellar where meat was smoked in medieval times. Tiefenbrunner has since scrubbed away the centuries-old remnants of wood fires making the cavernous room now a place to taste wines amid the ambiance of ancient stones.

A Tale of Five Wines

After the fascinating tour deep beneath South Tyrol, Christof brought us to Tiefenbrunner’s wine shop located across from the castle. A quaint two-story building, it reminded us of an old-world storefront complete with an artist’s loft above — a natural setting to further discover the tale of its wines.

The first thing we noticed next to our tasting table was four glass cylinders filled with soil. We found them an ingenious touch to help tell the story of Tiefenbrunner. Short of trekking to each plot with a shovel in hand, they made grasping the variety of soil types easier to understand.

For the tasting, Christof led us on a journey through all four wines comprising Tiefenbrunner’s Selection Vigna line followed by a tasting of its Lagrein Riserva from its Selection Linticlarus line.

Tiefenbrunner launched the Vigna line to showcase its single-vineyard wines, which as Christof noted: “transmits the terroir best in the glass.” They are celebrated for perfectly balancing elegance with a deep richness of fruit flavors.

Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc Riserva

If gracefulness in wine has ever been an elusive descriptor for you, pour a glass of Tiefenbrunner’s Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc. Its meaning will crystallize on your nose and in your mouth. The wine takes you by the hand leading you gently across the dance floor, but before the song is over it has you effortlessly enraptured in the tango.

Its grapes arise from a vineyard nestled at the foot of Schlern mountain where the sandy soil possesses high salt levels and limestone rock born from the Dolomites themselves. This imparts an initial flint-like aroma that eases into fruity notes of dry hay and exotic fruit.

The wine ages for 11 months in oak and another year in the bottle before release. As a Sauvignon Blanc “raised by the Dolomites”, it makes a delicious gift for the hiker in your life. Its price begins at $59.

Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau

This white is a sterling example of what we love about the world of wine: the story a bottle tells. And while we may be biased, no bottle can spin a better tale than the wines from South Tyrol.

The Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau is quite the epic. The wine is named after Franz Philipp Freiherr von Fenner, an Austrian field marshall who founded the Tyrolean Imperial Rifles, a regiment serving the Austrian emperor in the 1800s.

The grapes composing this legend grow at an elevation of nearly 3,300 feet above sea level on the Fennberg mountain plateau next to the historic summer estate of the Feldmarschall. This lofty height makes it the highest Müller-Thurgau vineyard in Europe.

Planted almost 50 years ago by Christof’s father, the vineyard’s altitude exemplifies how winemaking is an art. It is located such that an immense jutting rock face protects the vines from northerly winds.

We found the Feldmarschall Von Fenner a stunner from swirl to finish. Pure deliciousness reminiscent of a dry Reisling, but more complex with an energetic minerality. James Suckling referred to it as possibly the “best Müller-Thurgau in the world”. And the renowned wine guide, Gambero Rosso, awarded the wine its coveted Three Glasses prize.

With all that said, the label on the bottle alone is enough to entice us to purchase this high-mountain gem. No one should pass up the chance to unwind with a heroic military officer of old Tyrol. $45.

AU Chardonnay Riserva

Sipping this delightful number furthered our conviction that the only Chardonnays worth paying attention to come from South Tyrol. Well, at least that is how we see it.

The AU Chardonnay was pleasantly dry with a well-rounded body and ever tantalizing bouquet. Our semi-novice noses could not pin down the aromas. It was thoroughly exotic and intoxicating. In the mouth, we found it evolving with intensity eventually giving way to a nice long finish.

Christof shared that the vineyard where this Chardonnay is born sits directly behind the estate. The plot slopes under a pergola of vines that are 60 years old. He noted the wine itself can age a remarkable 20+ years in a cellar. It starts at $59.

Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva

While white wines comprise roughly 70% of Tiefenbrunner’s production, reds are not any less important to the winery. Producing Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva requires a rare perfect growing season before Tiefenbrunner will harvest the grapes.

We learned the name “Toren” is a Middle High German word meaning tower. The grapes thrive on a steep south-facing slope where the sun relentlessly basks the vines. The wine spends a year maturing in oak barriques followed by six months in stainless steel tanks. It then ages two years in the bottle. Tiefenbrunner has produced 2,500 bottles of Toren; however, only 2,000 have been brought to market.

In the glass, the wine was a thrilling dark red. One could almost get lost in its swirl forgetting to take a sip. It had an exceptional structure with hints of tobacco and blackberry. We enjoyed its velvety layers of dark-fruit flavors and were ready to carve into a steak after our tasting. With its limited production, it is naturally one of Tiefenbrunner’s more expensive wines. $69.

Linticlarus Lagrein Riserva

Our tasting with Christof fittingly concluded with a native red of South Tyrol from Tiefenbrunner’s premium line: Linticlarus. The name Linticlarus is a respectful nod to the area’s winemaking prowess going back to ancient times. It honors a former Roman fortress in Entiklar.

Before tasting, we admired its heavy ruby color and notes of black cherry, vanilla and lightly smoked oak. After a couple of sips, it sprang to life expressing lovely juiciness with smooth tannins and a slightly earthy finish.

This wine came across as very food-friendly. A Lagrein we could easily enjoy with everything from wild game to pizza.

Christof noted their Lagrein comes from one of Tiefenbrunner’s lowest elevation vineyards and ages for a year in small French oak barrels. It then spends another six months in large wooden casks before aging another year in the bottle. You can pick up this beauty for $35.

How to Visit Tiefenbrunner Winery

South Tyrol does not lack wineries showcasing striking mastery in modern architecture, but there is something especially enchanting about sipping wine in a medieval castle perched below a mountainside. Even those who have little interest in wine will find visiting Tiefenbrunner Winery an alluring destination.

The winery lies in South Tyrol’s Unterland (Lowlands) region and is the furthest one south we have visited along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Its location makes it the ideal winery to begin or end your day along the wine road. Set a gentle pace to savor the landscape. Between the steep terraces of vines, you’ll soak in speckles of meadows, forests and orchards.

In addition to visiting Tiefenbrunner, we highly recommend breezing along the charming cobblestone streets of Margreid where you can see the oldest grapevine in South Tyrol. And if you are in South Tyrol during the holiday season, consider adding Margreid’s Krampus Run to your itinerary.

Tiefenbrunner Winery offers tours with their tastings, but you must book in advance.  The winery and eatery are open Monday-Saturday. Hours vary by season.

If a trip to South Tyrol is not in your immediate future, transport yourself to the Tiefenbrunner estate by picking up a bottle. Their expansive portfolio offers wines to fit any budget. We regularly enjoy the Classic Merus Chardonnay. At under $16, we find it twice as good as its price tag.

We would like to give special thanks to Christof Tiefenbrunner for the enchanting tour and tasting!

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