Val Gardena

Of Mountains & Mallets: Discover the Woodcarvers of Val Gardena

Updated: July 1, 2022

For centuries, the woodcarvers of Val Gardena have enriched the world with chiseled works of art exhibiting astonishing detail and beauty. Join us as we go behind the scenes at DEUR Sculptures to reveal why appreciating South Tyrol’s woodcarving heritage should be a part of your trip plans.

With the Dolomites lording over the forests of South Tyrol’s Val Gardena, it’s easy to let the mountains capture all the glory. But as we discovered, one would miss out on a vast world of artistic splendor if they were to never explore beneath the peaks.

Our introduction to the earthly talents of Val Gardena almost didn’t happen. Not without an encouraging nudge from Mother Nature. On most outdoor adventures, bad weather is a misfortune. Yet sometimes, just sometimes, it can actually be luck in disguise. That was the case for us the day we came to adore Val Gardena for far more than its heavenly mountains.

Into the Valley of Woodcarvers

The forecast said rain throughout South Tyrol. A glance out of our balcony confirmed it. Clouds blushing with anger brooded upon the summits of Merano.

Our plan for the day was to drive into Val Gardena and hike Seceda — one of the most iconic mountain scenes in the world. Seceda stirred in our imagination ever since gushing over pictures of its saw-tooth peaks looming above a sweeping Alpine pasture called Col Raiser. We decided to risk the overcast weather.

Of Mountains & Mallets: Discover the Woodcarvers of Val Gardena 2 — We didn’t spot any rugged peaks on our first visit to Val Gardena, but were rewarded with moody scenes like the above.

Less than an hour into our drive, the rain began. Softly at first, like a gardener sprinkling her flowers. Then as we turned off the A22 towards Val Gardena, the sprinkle swelled into a fire hose.

By the time we arrived in Ortisei, the rain barely let up. Clouds stubbornly rested atop the slopes. It was quite clear the Dolomities were going to remain in a foul mood.

As we knew next to nothing about Ortisei, we decided to venture onto Brixen. Yet even in under the spell of gloom, the Alpine charm of Ortisei was enticing. Timber-roofed chalets bearing balconies flush with bright geraniums called to us. We made a note to come back and wander the town when the weather was more friendly.

But before departing, we spotted a towering stone studio along the roadside with tall windows allowing a glimpse inside. There, stood beautiful figures. Some haunting. Others cheerful. They were motionless, but full of life. The sign on the facade said “DEUR Sculptures”.

Inside was a treasure chest of chiseled wood. We carefully eyed the pieces like we were in a museum. Soon we were greeted by Nadia Demetz, DEUR Sculptures sales leader. She graciously helped us find an ideal woodcarving for our home, but before leaving we asked if we could return to learn more about Val Gardena’s woodcarving tradition and DEUR Sculptures. Nadia said of course as she was the daughter of the owner.

A Chiseling History

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The mood of the mountains was much more amicable when we returned to Ortisei the following fall. All of the Alpine wonders we missed on our first visit were now on full display. Clear skies prevailed throughout the morning allowing us to finally ascend and wander what very well may be the Dolomites’ greatest masterpiece: Seceda.

After our hiking outing, we returned to DEUR Sculptures to meet Nadia for a grand tour of her family business. She began with the history of wood carving in South Tyrol. Nadia stated historical documents provide evidence of two Ladin families, Tröbinger and Vinatzer, carving wood with their children as early as 1624. With farming not possible in the winter, more and more families in Val Gardena passed time carving toys, religious figurines and tools.

Of Mountains & Mallets: Discover the Woodcarvers of Val Gardena 4 — Woodcarving began as a family affair in Val Gardena and continues to be one today.

The wood carvings of Val Gardena ultimately found demand beyond the farmsteads as artisans traveled to nearby cities like Innsbruck, Milan, Munich and even Paris to exchange their crafts for other goods. By the late 1800s, wood carving grew into a viable source of income for many Ladin families. So much so that Val Gardena became known as the “Valley of Woodcarvers”. Carving schools arose to formalize teaching the craft from one generation to the next.

Today, the wood carvings of Val Gardena are found in all corners of the world. The valley’s captivating creations adorn many of mankind’s greatest cathedrals and architectural treasures.

Deur Sculptures Takes Flight

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The seeds for DEUR Sculptures began in 1954 when Nadia’s grandfather, Oswald Demetz, enrolled in a carving apprenticeship. His father was a wood turner and his mother a sculptor so pursuing a wood carving career was only natural.

Oswald nourished his creative talents under a master woodcarver for 12 years. In that time, he established a renowned reputation for excellence and scrupulous attention to detail. In 1966, this hard-earned reputation led him to found DEUR Sculptures. The name of which comes from the shop he initially opened in St. Christina.

Of Mountains & Mallets: Discover the Woodcarvers of Val Gardena 6 — Granddaughter of Oswald Demetz, Nadia, explains the technique behind painting a wood carving.

His son, Karlheinz, made it a family business by joining in 1985. Together, they grew DEUR Sculptures beyond religious art and nativity scenes to include relief wall carvings, furniture and secular figures such as clowns, folk characters, gnomes, animals and much more.

DEUR Sculptures now even creates custom carvings based on pictures or sketches they receive. These personalized pieces include life-size figures of individuals, as well as beloved pets. Nadia shared images of this custom work with us. We were awestruck. The skill it takes to chisel such uncanny resemblance from a block of wood is remarkable.

Now one of the largest wood carving companies in South Tyrol, DEUR Sculptures’ staff is made up of specialty wood carvers, painters, business managers and a sales team who promote the company’s creations around the world. Many religious institutions look to DEUR for their artwork, as well as other organizations that do not deal in the divine. Recently, the company sold a life-size nativity scene to Stiegl Brewery, which is on display in Salzburg, Austria during the Christmas season.

A Sampling of Wood Carvings from DEUR Sculptures

Deciding where to settle your gaze first when walking into DEUR Sculptures is like trying to decide which rose to smell in a bouquet. Every piece looks elaborate and awe-inspiring. From rows of Madonnas cradling child to hallowed angels and saints to figurines of all walks of life, the amount of talent on display in the showroom rivals a museum.

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⇒ See More: Discover the massive wine casks chiseled by Val Gardena woodcarvers deep within the wine cellar of Elena Walch.

How a Woodcarver’s Vision Takes Form

After giving us a historical perspective, Nadia walked through the actual art of wood carving. Once DEUR selects a subject to carve it is first sculpted out of plasticine (modeling clay). This prep work takes a sculptor 2-3 days; however, the time spent is well worth it. The finished plasticine sculpture becomes the model — making carving from a block of wood much easier and greatly minimizing the risk of costly mistakes.

With a model to emulate, a woodcarver can produce a 2 ft. figurine in less than 2 weeks. But the production time frame is also dependent on the wood type used. DEUR carves a variety of wood species with the most common being pine, maple and lime.

Of Mountains & Mallets: Discover the Woodcarvers of Val Gardena 12 — Creating clay models of the subject is the first step in wood carving.

Thanks to the abundance of pine in the Alps, the woodcarvers of Val Gardena perfected their craft over centuries using the soft wood. Nowadays with greater access to woods from all over the world, DEUR can be more selective in matching the perfect wood species for a given subject.

For example, DEUR Sculptures uses maple for smaller figures. It’s a hardwood with bright color and minimal branches — an ideal choice for chiseling details. DEUR’s grandest sculptures arise from limewood. Softer than maple with a close grain and few branches, it is less liable to warp than other hardwoods like oak or walnut. Additional wood types used, although less frequently, include chestnut, nutwood, cherry wood, ash wood and oak.

Of Mountains & Mallets: Discover the Woodcarvers of Val Gardena 13 — A DEUR Sculptures artist puts the final touches on a woodcarving.

When a woodcarver finishes a piece, DEUR will either leave it in its natural state or have a painter transform the artwork with even more detail. Nadia indicated they use three different coloring styles: brown toning, oil painting or antiquing.

In antiquing, the artist applies 22-karat gold foil to give the carving a more vintage appearance and appeal. Layering gold foil over a piece is called gold leafing or gilding.

A Master Woodcarver at Work

Of Mountains & Mallets: Discover the Woodcarvers of Val Gardena 14 — A Deur Sculptures master woodcarver bringing his vision to life.

Nadia led us to a studio off of the showroom so we could watch a woodcarver in action. Upon entering, the rich aroma of fresh-cut wood instantly enveloped us. A carver stood chiseling on a block of wood suspended on a post. His eyes flashed up momentarily to politely greet us before returning to his subject with a steady rhythm of gentle knocks.

Watching him masterfully perform his artistry was riveting. It’s one thing to be moved by a finished piece of art, but to see the artist’s vision unfold before your eyes is truly powerful. We studied his mesmerizing movements as he fashioned a sorrowful Madonna from a piece of chestnut wood. The beautiful detail he chiseled left no doubt it would only take the breath of life to make the wooden Madonna a living soul.

South Tyrolean Woodcarver in Val Gardena

We could have easily spent the rest of the afternoon watching the carver seemingly dance around his subject, but did not want to overstay our welcome in the studio. No one likes a voyeur lurking over your shoulder while concentrating on a work of art.

vISIT the Valley of Woodcarvers

Nadia finished our tour by sharing with us the work DEUR Sculptures has done to make their artistry more accessible worldwide. Much of her time over the last several months was spent capturing artwork imagery and descriptions for a new storefront on their website. Thousands of products can now be purchased from DEUR Sculptures’ online shop. They ship to virtually any country in the world. Each item sold includes a certificate authenticating it is handmade in South Tyrol.

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Of course as impressive as their website is nothing compares to browsing their shop in Ortisei. And if you’re venturing deeper into Val Gardena, you can also visit the original DEUR Sculptures shop in St. Christina.

Stopping in either location is an enamoring introduction to the wood carving tradition of South Tyrol. With more than half the region blanketed by forest, purchasing a carving is a perfect way to bring a bit of South Tyrol into your home.

DEUR Sculptures Shop in St. Christina — The charming DEUR Sculptures shop in St. Christina. (Photo Credit: DEUR Sculptures)

Once you leave DEUR Sculptures, you’ll not only have an incredible piece of art, but also the conviction that within the hands of their artisans, there is scarcely any limit to the beautiful forms and expressions they can carve.

We’d like to give a special thank you to Nadia for her time and for giving us a wonderful glimpse into South Tyrol’s wood carving tradition.

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Val Gardena Woodcarvers in the Italian Alps

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob

Updated: December 2, 2022

The Church of St. Jakob offers one of the most awe-inspiring vistas in the Dolomites. Discover how to hike to the oldest and highest church in Val Gardena.

It is rather fitting that a church reachable by foot alone is consecrated to the patron saint of pilgrims and hikers. The Church of St. Jakob (also known as St. Jacob, Chiesa di San Giacoma and Dlieja da Sacun in Ladin) shines as a lantern hung above the steep evergreen slopes of Val Gardena.

The oldest and highest church in the valley, the Church of St. Jakob is a late-Gothic style beauty brandishing a bell tower emblazoned with brilliant white stone. It sits at an elevation of more than 5,000 ft. — clearly once a guiding light to weary pilgrims from afar.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 16 — A trail signpost showing the three languages spoken in Val Gardena: Ladin, German and Italian.

The church was built along an ancient road called “Troi Paian” or “Pagan’s Pathway”. This trade route dates to the Bronze Age and one time connected Venetia with South Tyrol’s Valle Isarco.

The exact date of the church’s founding is as knowable as a mountain lost in the clouds. Some historians believe it dates to the year 1181 due to a carving in the bell tower. However, the first mention of the Church of St. Jakob in an official document was in 1283.

Yet according to local legend, the church was built by the Counts of Stetteneck, who reigned in the late 13th century. The legend itself is quite entertaining.

Legend of the Golden Cup

Count Gebhard von Stetteneck of Val Gardena once went with his son Jakob (not the actual Saint Jakob) in search of a relative who allegedly lived with another noble in Santiago de Compostela, a city in northwestern Spain. This Spanish Count it is said had a beautiful daughter who immediately fell in love with the younger Count of Val Gardena. Jakob, however, took no notice of her affection much to the daughter’s dismay.

In revenge for the young Count’s disinterest in her, she secretly hid her father’s golden cup in Jakob’s luggage prior to his travel back to Val Gardena. When her father noticed the precious cup missing the following day he immediately sent his servants after Gebhard and Jakob at the urging of his daughter.

Upon catching up with the counts, the servants searched Jakob’s luggage and indeed found the missing cup. The servants demanded Jakob return to face their lord.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 17 — The St. Jakob Church clearly stands out against the forested slopes beneath Seceda. A sight medieval pilgrims could easily spot from afar.

Jakob well aware of his innocence did not hesitate to go with the servants. He told his father: “You know that I did not steal the cup, so help me God; go home, I will come soon.”

But when Jakob never returned, Gebhard became concerned and went back to the city of the Spanish count. How terrified he was when he saw his son hanging from the gallows in front of the city walls! The count had sentenced Jakob to death for the alleged theft of the cup.

When Gebhard came closer to the gallows, he saw his son was not dead at all, but alive! He rushed to the city judge demanding permission to take Jakob off the gallows. But the judge, who had just sat down at a table with his wife to enjoy a roasted chicken, said mockingly: “Your son is a thief and belongs on the gallows and, moreover, is already as dead as this chicken here in my pan!”

But then the roasted chicken rose and suddenly flew away! This miracle prompted the judge to rush to the gallows where he found the young Count of Val Gardena alive. He immediately proclaimed Jakob’s innocence allowing him to be lowered and returned to an overjoyed Gebhard.

In gratitude for this wonderful salvation, the Count, upon returning to Val Gardena, immediately set out to build the Church of St. Jakob with his son. It soon became a much-visited place of pilgrimage. So much so the church grew in great wealth and the people of Val Gardena used to say: “If you want to have a rich husband or wife, you must go to St. Jakob’s Church!”

The Artwork of St. Jakob

Interior of St. Jakob Church in Ortisei — The interior of St. Jakob is a feast for the eyes.

Despite its relatively small stature, the Church of St. Jakob offers a number of wonders worth appreciating. First and foremost is its famous mountainside setting.

If you arrive at the church by descending the trail from Seceda, you will be rewarded with the sight of the church’s spire seemingly soaring over the crags of Mt. Sassolungo. A bench rests on the hilltop right above the church.

We recommend taking a seat to let the jaw-dropping scene steep your soul. And if you are single this is a good perch to spot any wealthy church patrons worth courting. May the legend of the golden cup be forever in your favor!

While the exterior of St. Jakob is late-Gothic, its interior showcases a variety of architectural stylings from Romanesque to Baroque. On its walls, you can admire, as well as attempt to decipher, several frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries, some hopelessly faded and others remarkably vivid.

Passing through the church’s nave you will come to a fresco near the pulpit. This artwork depicts the legend of St. Jakob, who is perhaps better known as St. James the Great, one of the first apostles of Jesus.

Statues at St. Jakob Church in Ortisei, South Tyrol

His remains are reportedly buried beneath the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain — giving some credence to the Counts of Stetteneck being the founders of the church per the above legend. It’s interesting to note that the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is one of only three churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus, the other two being St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City and St. Thomas Cathedral Basilica in India.

St. Jakob was also the first apostle to be martyred. In 44 A.D. Herod Agrippa, king of Judea, ordered him to be beheaded.

Also, next to the pulpit are oil paintings of the Virgin Mary from the 18th century. As you walk into the church’s sanctuary, you will pass beneath an arch filled with frescoes of five female saints including St. Mary Magdelene and St. Catherine of Alexandria.

The altar is classic Baroque. It beams with sky-blue columns surrounded by gold-gilded woodcarvings from Val Gardena. The altar oil painting depicts a unique nativity scene with a knight and an infant Jesus holding a globus cruciger (an orb surmounted by a cross) — symbolizing dominion over the world.

The St. Jakob Cemetery

Outside the church, enclosed by a stone wall, is a small cemetery. You should walk through this graveyard to admire the great care South Tyroleans take to beautify and honor those at rest.

A weathered yet gorgeous wood-carved wayside shrine greets you near the entrance. Throughout the cemetery, you will see additional woodcarvings and wrought iron crucifixes exemplifying the expert craftsmanship of the locals.

Madonna Shrine at St. Jakob Church in Ortisei

Also worth admiring are the late Gothic frescoes from 1450 on the south-facing wall of the church. They still possess remarkable color and detail. The most celebrated depicts St. Christopher with Jesus as a child perched on his shoulder.

Before departing the cemetery, duck into a tiny stone shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. On the wall to the left, you will see a painting of a fallen soldier along with a list of names, presumably of residents who gave their lives in battle.

How to Visit St. Jakob

We think the most rewarding way to visit the Church of St. Jakob is to hike down from the ridgeline of Seceda through the forest of Mt. Balest. See our guide to hiking Seceda for step-by-step directions.

If that sounds too challenging or time-consuming you can also reach the church by walking the Legend of St. Jakob Trail. This forested trail begins behind the parish church of S. Cristina — a charming town less than 20 minutes from Ortisei.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 18 — St. Jakob Church is the heart of the Segra Sacun festival in October.

Plan on 2+ hours to walk to the church and back. If you are in South Tyrol in early October, you may want to consider timing your visit with a village festival called “Segra Sacun”.

We attended the Segra Sacun festival during our last visit to St. Jakob and had the opportunity to join an outdoor mass in front of the church. This traditional service was followed by a fun celebration offering local specialties, beer and wine. The following day the festival continues in the center of Ortisei and runs late into the evening.