South Tyrol Historic Sights

A Swirl with Antiquity – Visiting the Abbey of Novacella

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only one can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world. Nestled just to the north of South Tyrol’s oldest town lies the Abbey of Novacella (also known as “Abbazia di Novacella” in Italian and “Kloster Neustift” in German).

This cultural treasure near Brixen was founded in 1142 — more than 875 years ago. It is among the most stunning historic destinations in South Tyrol. A symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid rolling vineyards and forested slopes.

Anyone admiring the Abbey of Novacella, from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The monastery boasts a labyrinth of structures, courtyards and walls showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo character from various epochs.

The history of Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Wandering the Vines of Novacella

We arrived at the Abbey of Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

Neustift Monastery Castle — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbey of Novacella.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks.

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery.

We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Abbey of Novacella Winery Vineyards — The vineyards of the Abbey of Novacella tumble down slopes to the foot of the monastery. Ancient dry stone walls ease the steepness and act like a furnace for the vines during the cool evenings.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of the Abbey of Novacella (officially labeled as “Abbazia di Novacella” in your wine shop) are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle “it’s better to have less but good”.

Elias Holzer and Kate discussing Novacella wines — Novacella sommelier, Elias Holzer, explaining the winemaking principles of the Abbey of Novacella (also commonly known as Neustift Monastery). Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast from the historic builings.

Following this tenet has guided Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. Novacella began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Admiring the historic Abbey of Novacella garden (also known as Neustift Monastery) — Admiring the natural splendor of the Abbey of Novacella garden.

We wandered on until overlooking the historical gardens of Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess gingko trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

Becoming One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land bearing virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Novacella expanded their operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

The winery of Abbazia di Novacella lies beneath our feet. — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us.

According to Elias, Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” Novacella even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water to precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

Abbazia di Novacella Wine Production — Elias shares how Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touch screen interface, Novacella sets the temperature of its stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

A Stroll Through the Ages

We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbey of Novacella Church Ceiling — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbey of Novacella church is among the finest in South Tyrol.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Striking Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

Towards the end of World War II all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Abbey of Novacella Wunderbrunnen — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean breads.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born from the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an every-day wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Elias promised that to taste it once, is to remember it forever. He was absolutely right.

Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to the Abbey of Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

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A Halo of Ruin – Exploring the Castles of Eppan

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

Three castles, one hike? Every castle hunter should be so lucky. That was our first thought after discovering a halo of castles forming a stunning hike called “Three Castles Walk” in Eppan / Appiano, South Tyrol.

We had just arrived at Weingut Donà for a multi-day romantic adventure along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. The Hocheppan Castle perched high above our villa apartment caught our eye immediately. How could it not? It loomed from a rocky ledge along a sheer mountain wall. From where we stood far below, this 12th-century stronghold looked to be a marvel of the most medieval kind.

Over the Hills and Far Away

We considered setting out on the Three Castles Walk from Weingut Donà, but opted to drive up the mountain a bit to a nearby village called Missiano. Starting from here gave us the best chance of visiting all three castles. Plus, from the parking lot, we could follow well-marked signs pointing the way up to our first castle stop.

On a steep hill above the parking lot sat an enticing looking church. We made a mental note to visit it if we had time after consuming the three castles. South Tyrol can be joyfully exhausting for curious souls like us. It teems with such intriguing sights making it a land where one could explore endlessly.

A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

We began the Three Castles Walk along a paved road, but were soon enveloped by vineyards as we ascended the foothills of Mondelo mountain range. Hocheppan Castle teased us from afar. But each step offered us an ever-widening view of the valley below.

Jagged peaks of the Dolomites soared from the horizon beyond Bolzano. The infamous Witches Mountain (Sciliar / Schlern) cut into the sky like a gravestone just above the molten gold of leaves still clinging to the vines. It was a sight of pure South Tyrolean splendor.

All Along the Watchtower

Eventually, the vineyards became woodland and we found ourselves in a shroud of trees. The path steepened in the forest, but we came across several benches to catch our breath. We were about to turn a final corner to Hocheppan Castle when we happened to glance behind us. A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

Hocheppan Castle Chalk Tower — The 12th-century watchtower of Hocheppan Castle.

Veering off the main path, we hopped through the woods until finding another trail to the tower. Within 5 minutes we were at the foot of a sign reading “Kreideturm” (Chalk Tower). We darted up to the hill crest where the tower stood. Its appearance was rather austere. The tower looked like a poor man’s skyscraper. We discovered it was erected in the late 12th century as a watchtower for Hocheppan Castle. The king’s guard would ignite a chalk fire at the top of the tower to signal incoming danger.

We were not able to find a way into the tower so we moved on after thoroughly exploring the area. Walking through the forest back to the castle path, we came across a ghostly white face staring at us between the trees. We stood frozen. The face moved. Two horns flashed. Then the figure turned revealing a body much like a deer except it wasn’t. We watched with fascination as two chamois lightly floated over the forest floor seemingly without a care.

Chamois in the woods — Ghosts in the forest. Encounters with chamois while hiking to Hocheppan. Can you spot the second one?

At the Gate of Hocheppan

Twenty minutes later we finally came to the crumbling walls of Hocheppan Castle. Below us was a sweeping view that cemented why this fortress was built at this height. The castle itself is a remarkable ruin. Both a romantic and fierce sight at the same time. A tall bergfried looms from the castle’s heart, a medieval architectural relic that is rare in the Alps.

Once the mightiest stronghold in South Tyrol, Hocheppan came to crown the mountain around the year 1130. It sits at more than 2,000 feet and was the ancestral seat of the Counts of Eppan — sworn enemies to the Counts of Tyrol to the north. Given the name of the region you can guess who ultimately won.

Since the castle was closed for the season we were not able to wander whatever was left of its once kingly halls. Nor were we able to admire its famous chapel, which contains priceless ancient frescoes that paint a vivid picture of life during the Middle Ages.

Even though abandoned for more than 500 years, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been.

As we were alone at the castle, we sat silently on a bench admiring its form against the autumn sky. But we were not as alone as we thought. A cat crept up to our feet. She purred loudly nuzzling against our legs…clearly longing to be held. Who were we to argue? After coddling the cuddly furball, we set her free. She led us to the other side of the castle. No doubt its throne belonged to her as she was not in any way lost.

Castle Hocheppan / Appiano — Upon our arrival at Hocheppan Castle we were greeted warmly by the queen.

Hocheppan Castle Cat — As all castle visits must end, we bid farewell to the queen per the royal custom of South Tyrol.

To Boymont & Beyond

A sign on the path pointed us toward the second castle on our hike: Boymont. The trail took us down on a rocky ravine that we feared meant a steep climb at some point. Sure enough. Stairs built along the sheer cliff edge scaled the other side of the ravine. We sweated our way up the steps. The trail then snaked up a bit further before dropping us off at the door of Boymont Castle.

Boymont Castle is another ruin from centuries past. Its stone facade is quite different from Hocheppan. Boymont Castle wears a more reddish hue rather than gray and its decorative windows, with their arches and stone pillars, speak to an early Gothic style.

The Counts of Eppan built Boymont Castle in the 13th century. But they were not the first to reside on this castle hill. Archaeologists have found remnants from prehistoric times.

Boymont was not of military importance — serving as a luxurious residential manor instead. This is quite evident by its uncommon medieval form. Even though abandoned for more than 500 years after an arsonist set fire, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been. We peeked at the castle’s courtyard through an iron gate. It was magnificent. Definitely a place we will be returning to enjoy a South Tyrolean gem at its wine tavern.

Boymont Castle Windows — Admiring the early Gothic style windows of Boymont Castle.

We found the castle’s windows particularly fascinating. Peering through them long ago must have been exhilarating. Despite the fortress being in ruin, it was easy to picture its storybook past.

The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

After exploring all four corners of Boymont, we soaked in the panorama from the mountain’s edge. Steeples and tiled roofs colored the valley floor between sweeping swaths of vineyards and orchards. The sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. The third castle on the walk tempted us from some far off crag, but we saved conquering Castel Korb for another day. Being caught in the dark in a land haunted by legends was not how either one of us sought to spend the night. Besides we knew there was a bottle of wine waiting for us at Weingut Donà.

Once back at the villa apartment, we cleaned up and enjoyed a couple of glasses of Vernatsch before venturing to Bolzano for a feast at The Laurin Restaurant. Dining at a venue named after a royal legend seemed like the only appropriate way to end a day among regal ruins.

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

The best time to embark on the Three Castles Walk is obviously when the castles are open. However, we found having the trails and ruins to ourselves during the off-season especially memorable. Surprisingly, we lingered longer around each castle longer than we may if they had been open. The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

If you are visiting South Tyrol during summer and much of spring or fall you will be able to experience everything Hocheppan Castle and Boymont Castle offer. Hocheppan is open from early April to early November. It can be visited daily from 10 am to 6 pm excluding Wednesdays. Tours are available in English.

Boymont Castle is typically open from late March to early November. Hours are from 11 am to 5 pm every day except when shuttered on Mondays.

Both castles serve traditional South Tyrolean food and drink if you wish to sip and eat among the same stones as knights and kings.

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Castle Tirol – Majesty Among the Mountains

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

What is it about castles? Whether in a perpetual state of crumble or masterfully preserved to reveal life in the Middle Ages, they endlessly fascinate us. We get lost in their haunting beauty as much as we do in the history and legends spun from within their ramparts of stone.

With 800 castles littering South Tyrol’s mountainous landscape, it’s hard to nail down one that impresses the most. But there is one whose ability to captivate us never fails no matter how many times we let it grace our eyes: Castle Tirol (also known as “Schloss Tirol” in German and “Castel Tirolo” in Italian)

Its imposing position 2,000 feet above the valley floor demands your attention from even miles away. Bearing such a commanding presence, it’s no wonder Castle Tirol named an entire region and its people. The word “Tirol / Tyrol” can be traced back to when the Roman Empire occupied the area. “Teriolis” was the given name of a Roman stronghold near Merano.

Erected in the 1100s by the Counts of Vinschgau, who later took title as the Counts of Tyrol, its storied walls hold some of the most important historical relics and artwork in South Tyrol. In fact, the faded frescoes of its chapel include the oldest painting of the Red Eagle, South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

The Many Moods of Castle Tirol

A unique quality of Castle Tirol is that depending on the temperament of the mountains or the hour of the season, the castle’s ancient majesty transforms before your eyes. Its seemingly ever-changing character is perhaps why we find Castle Tirol so alluring.

Autumn is a special time to visit as a wine-stand off the Falknerweg offers the season's new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grape vines while gazing at the castle and beyond.

See for yourself. Plunge into the Middle Ages with the following images. We hope they inspire you to etch the castle on your bucket list. Chisel not included.

Within the Storied Walls of Castle Tirol

As much as Castle Tirol enchants from the outside it is equally enchanting from within. The grandeur of the sweeping panorama awaiting visitors illustrates why the fortress was founded on its lofty, rocky spur.

A vintage image of the Tyrolean king ruling from Castle Tirol’s throne. Any resemblance to Vin is pure coincidence.

Situated to the north of Merano, Castle Tirol peers deep into the valley basin that stretches southward to Bolzano. On its western flank, the castle watches over the Vinschgau Valley, which runs toward Switzerland.

Inside the castle lies a treasure of archaeological finds including religious and pagan figures encircling the marble portals of the castle’s chapel. These are sculpted in Romanesque-style from the 12th century. Their meaning is still not entirely clear. Nevertheless, they are fascinating to study. Their ornate detail speaks to the superb craftsmanship of long ago.

The castle is also home to the South Tyrolean Museum of History and Culture offering an intriguing walk through the history of the land from its earliest beginnings to the modern era. The exhibit signs are in German and Italian, but visitors can check out an audio guide that is in English. The museum tour lasts about 50 minutes.

Castle Tirol Chapel — A larger than life Crucifixion scene crafted in 1330 looms over the chapel of Castle Tirol.

South Tyrol Coat of Arms — Remarkably well-preserved frescoes nearly a thousand years old still adorn Castle Tirol including the oldest known depiction of the Red Eagle — South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

Reaching Castle Tirol

The only way to reach Castle Tirol is on foot. Trust us, this is a good thing. The hike to its gates is unforgettable. If views of the castle and vineyards riddled around it do not steal your breath away then the Texel mountain group in the distance certainly will.

When arriving at the area by car, we suggest parking in one of two public lots located in Dorf Tirol. From there, cross the street walking uphill along the sidewalk until coming to a sign designating the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This beautiful path takes you past hotels, restaurants and vineyards eventually winding along the edge of a deep ravine where you can admire the picturesque Brunnenburg Castle — once home to the famous poet Ezra Pound.

Before rounding a corner to the castle you will pass through a 260-foot stone tunnel built in the 17th century. The entire walk takes 20-30 minutes depending on how much you pause to snap pictures or simply savor the historical and natural beauty all around.

TIP: The castle can also be reached from Merano by walking the Tappeiner Promenade. This route takes 2-3 hours but is what we consider the most enchanting walk in Italy. It is our favorite way to reach Castle Tirol.

When to Visit Castle Tirol

Castle Tirol is open to the public from mid-March to early-December. Visit the castle’s official website to confirm dates and hours. Admission fees are € 7 per adult. Children and senior citizens receive discounted rates.

If you visit the castle during one of the weekends in December when it is hosting its traditional Christmas market, you can enjoy the castle at no charge. Seeing it at this time of year is especially charming.

Autumn is also a special time to visit as a wine-stand off the Falknerweg offers the season’s new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grape vines while gazing at the castle and beyond. Sounds a touch romantic doesn’t it? Afterward, treat yourself to a hearty South Tyrolean meal at Biergarten am Schlossweg — a panoramic beer garden nearby.

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Forest of the Fallen – Brunico’s Moving Tribute to the Soldiers of World War I

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

“I am young, I am twenty years old; yet I know nothing of life but despair, death, fear, and fatuous superficiality cast over an abyss of sorrow. I see how peoples are set against one another, and in silence, unknowingly, foolishly, obediently, innocently slay one another.”

WORDS, ONCE ONLY APPARITIONS in our minds, were now suddenly flesh and blood. Each step we took summoned another line from Erich Maria Remarque’s “All Quiet on the Western Front”. Each turn, another face haunting in the forest.

But we were in much more than a forest.

All around us stood grave markers.

Not of stone, but of timber.

Wooden crosses fashioned in pacifying poses silently spoke to us. Bronze plates with forgings of “1915”, “1916”, “1917” and “1918” conjured images of war. German names along with tattered photographs whispered stories into our minds. Wishes and dreams of young men longing to be told, but never to be heard.

What is this place of somber beauty we wondered? Minutes earlier we were gazing up in awe at the medieval markings of a 13th-century castle. And then on a whim decided to cross a nearby footbridge to a hill shrouded in pine and firs. Here, we trekked up a steep set of stairs. At the top, a forested slope unfolded before us revealing a cemetery unlike any we have ever seen.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness.

A grey monument resting on the hill’s crest held the answer. Inscribed on sable panes were the names of those buried. Next to this list of the fallen, we found the story of the ‘Soldier Cemetery’.

War on the Rooftop of the World

Soldiers climbing the Dolomites during World War I — Soldiers scaling a cliff in the Dolomites during WWI. (Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institution)

Fighting a war anywhere is hell. Fighting one in the unforgiving heights of the Dolomites is utterly unthinkable. Yet, during the First World War, its crags and crevices saw thousands of soldiers lost to the madness of mankind and more still to the fury only born on mountains. The warring conditions on the rooftop of the world were among the most treacherous ever endured in the history of warfare. If bullets or shell-fire didn’t tear you asunder, the mountain’s pummeling snow, hellish winds and crashing boulders would.

Brunico (also known as Bruneck) in South Tyrol was home to several wartime hospitals. Those injured battling on the front lines of the Dolomites received care here. Many did not make it out alive. Too many. When the local cemetery could no longer support the dead, a new one was founded on this hill in Brunico known as Kühbergl.

An Austrian Lieutenant Colonel, A. Bechtold, developed the vision for the Soldier Cemetery. For the men who suffered horrors on the summits, he sought to bring them final peace within the mossy velvet of the forest floor.

The cemetery was built by Russian prisoners of war. Logs from stands of pine became the grave markers — forever memorializing the fallen in harmony with the stillness of the forest.

Resting in Quiet Rapture

One-hundred years ago this past year, the last shot of the First World War rang out. At 11 am on the eleventh day in the eleventh month of 1918, Germany signed an armistice bringing the war to an end. Upon receiving the news, soldiers simply laid down their arms and went home.

The toll? 37 million dead.

669 lie in the Soldier Cemetery. They are soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian empire, as well as Russia, Serbia and Romania. Just 20 years later, the world would spiral into another war taking the lives of 50 million more. Nineteen German soldiers killed in bombing raids from the Second World War are also at rest in the cemetery.

In a solemn act of respect for the men, the cemetery dedicated sections to the respective faiths of the soldiers. Men of Christian, Jewish and Muslim faith lay separate but together. These brothers fighting for pieces of the earth now share it in quiet rapture as their home.

Caretakers of the Deep Wood Light

As we continued walking through the cemetery, we came across a few women tending to the graves. We learned they are members of an association of women that has kept each grave in pristine form since 1921.

Watching them work was as moving as the cemetery itself. In silence, they carefully placed evergreen branches and other favors from the forest throughout the resting places. These beautiful deep wood adornments evoked an even more serene feeling to our timbered surroundings.

Soldier Cemetery Caretaker in Bruneck — Since 1921, an association of women has given their time to maintain and beautify the cemetery.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness. Whether encountering a meticulously carved wayside shrine off a hiking trail or rows of crosses masterfully wrought out of iron in quaint, candlelit Alpine churchyards, the traditions of this land inspire awe. Taking time to reflect in such moments requires no belief in the divine to enjoy the beauty of humanity.

How to Visit the Soldier Cemetery of Brunico

A visit to the medieval town of Brunico is an easy trip add-on before or after a trek around Lago di Braies. While in Brunico, a walk through the Soldier Cemetery is a must. Every lover of nature and history will find it an enchanting sight.

The town offers you a few ways to reach the cemetery. From the grounds of the Bruneck Castle walk to the south castle wall and continue down a small slope to a footbridge. Cross over the road (Via Riscone) to the Kühbergl hill. Then follow the path to the right for a bit until you come to a set of stairs leading uphill. The cemetery sits at the top of the steps.

A footbridge near Bruneck Castle — Near Bruneck Castle lies a footbridge that leads you to the Soldier Cemetery.

Additional options to visiting the cemetery include two parking lots directly off Via Riscone. If you choose either one, you’ll have to walk uphill even more, but neither path is difficult.

No matter how you choose to visit, keep an eye out for signposts indicating ‘Cimitero di Guerra’ and ‘Kriegerfriedhof’ to ensure you’re heading the right direction.

Capturing the Soldier Cemetery with your camera is a heartrending experience no matter when you visit, but please be courteous to anyone there paying respect to those lost.

We are honored this post was recognized by Traverse Creator Awards with a “Best Storytelling Award”. The ability to discover the amazing history of South Tyrol while exploring all of its natural splendor is a gift we do not take for granted. Our hope is to inspire all who visit to take the time to get to know the history of the land and its people.

The Must-See Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

Italy isn’t short on wine or gardens. For more than 2,000 years elegantly-cultivated gardens have flourished across the land. Gardens were held in such high regard by the ancient Romans that the philosopher Marcus Tullius Cicero stated: If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.

Hard to argue with such age-old wisdom.

While the magnificent gardens in Rome or Florence may come to mind when you seek out the lushness of Italy, you really should turn your attention much further north to South Tyrol. Here lies one of the most splendid gardens in all of Europe: the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle in Merano.

Nestled on a mountainside basking under the wooing glow of the Mediterranean sun, the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle are a wanderer’s dream. Trails wind through nearly 30 acres flush with local and exotic flora and woodland from all over the world. The gardens’ ingenious design and layout create a fascinating juxtaposition between natural, historic and modern elements. Practically every inch of earth here is designed to set your senses afire.

Is it a must-see? Without a doubt.

The Gardens of Eternal Bloom

For us, the best gardens tell a story. And the tale these majestic gardens tell could have been spun from the goddess of gardens herself. The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle immerse you in eternal bloom through four themed garden worlds: The Sun Gardens, Forests of the World, The Water & Terraced Gardens and Landscapes of South Tyrol.

Walking through the gardens one wonders if there is a plant on Earth not here.

With the Trauttmansdorff Castle as a medieval centerpiece, the gardens feature four circuit trails through 83 garden landscapes. Three panoramic paths also allow you to soak in striking views of the valley below and the surrounding snow-dusted mountains.

Walking through the gardens one wonders if there is a plant on Earth not here. You can go from passing under arcaded grapevines to frolicking through deep chestnut woodlands and olive and lemon groves to strolling around desert succulents and bamboo forests all within 2-3 hours. The immense amount of sights to explore always leaves us wishing we had more time.

Beyond the 5,800+ different flora species and varieties, you can also admire various artist pavilions, experience stations, waterfalls and an array of animals including prancing peacocks, colorful macaws, friendly rabbits, and not-as friendly goats. The castle itself serves as the South Tyrol Museum of Tourism, which presents a captivating history of Alpine tourism spanning 200 years.

The gardens also host open-air concerts featuring entertainers from all over the world. Although we have not been lucky enough to attend a concert yet, the setting looks divine as the stage floats over a water lily pond with palm trees silhouetting the horizon.

The History of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

The Trauttmansdorff Castle was first mentioned around 1300. Known then as Neuberg, it is home to a couple of legends. One tells that the castle was built on the site where Saint Valentine lived as a hermit in the 5th century. Another legend proclaims the fortress was part of the fortifications of the Roman settlement in Late Antiquity called “Castrum Maiense”, which became Merano. Walls from the Middle Ages along with crypts are still standing on the southwest side of the castle.

If the Earth laughs in flowers as Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote then The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is perhaps the happiest place on the planet.

In 1543, Nicholas von Trauttmansdorff took possession of the castle; however, it fell into ruin over a few centuries until another Trauttmansdorff came to its rescue. In 1850, Count Joseph von Trauttmansdorff bought the crumbling stronghold and began renovations in neo-Gothic style.

These architectural updates must have been quite impressive. Empress Elisabeth of Austria (known as Sissi) spent 7 months at the castle beginning in 1870. She had such an affinity for the castle’s beauty a bronze bust was dedicated to her after she was assassinated in 1898.

Today, you can take a pleasant stroll to the castle from the heart of Merano by following Sissi’s Path, which connects to what we consider the most enchanting walk in Italy.

During World War II, the castle was a German military encampment. Due to the ravages of war, almost all of its furnishings were lost and the castle once again began to decay. Fast forward several decades and the castle along with all of its land became the property of the provincial government of Bolzano. In the late 80s, several visionaries and garden enthusiasts came together with a plan to restore the castle and cultivate a botanical garden rivaling the greatest in Europe. They succeeded.

In 2001, The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle was opened to the public. This South Tyrol treasure has since won multiple awards including the designation as Italy’s Most Beautiful Garden in 2005 and the prestigious International Garden of the Year award in 2013.

Now that you know a bit of history of the castle, let’s dive into some of our favorite highlights from our visits.

Sweeping Panoramas that Steal Your Breath

The mountainside setting of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is a gift to those who love epic vistas. Several places throughout the gardens offer breathtaking stretches of land and sky that will make you click happy with your camera. Our suggestion is to snap a few pics and then fully take it in with your eyes. These are views you will not forget.

The Matteo Thun Viewing Platform is an especially surreal experience. It “floats” over the gardens allowing your eyes to feast on the vast grandeur unfolding before you. At these heights, it’s easy to spot other South Tyrolean landmarks in the distance.

The Matteo Thun Viewing Platform at Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle offers heart-pounding views.

Awash in Oceans of Petals

If the Earth laughs in flowers as Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote then the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is perhaps the happiest place on the planet. Flower buffs will have a field day a here. No pun intended.

On each of our visits, we have encountered everything from endless rows of tulips to fields of daffodils to roses in vivid bloom along with countless other flower species. The vast amount of colors that dance across your eyes is bedazzling. And the flowery fragrance you inhale as you roam about is intoxicating.

Trees from Around the World

The only thing more abundant than flowers at the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is trees. The gardens showcase woodland varieties from all over the world. We really admire the cypress trees that spring skyward from the Sun Gardens World. They bring about an even more regal presence to the castle backdrop.

One of the things we love most about the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is that it fully immerses you in natural wonders in new ways.

Equally enchanting are the gardens’ olive and lemon groves. It has been said the best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The second best time is now. Lucky for us some medieval visionary planted an olive tree 700 years ago that now thrives below the castle. This ancient tree stands among Italy’s northernmost olive grove. Its old, twisted form greets you from a path as if it’s about to impart some sage wisdom.

The bamboo forest is also fascinating especially if you’ve never been to the Far East. Experiencing the bamboo area provides a peek into how Asian cultures harness the trees for materials. And let’s not forget the towering palm trees. They are massive. We almost wanted to slip on beach sandals the first time we saw the gardens’ Mediterranean giants.

A 700-year old olive tree in South Tyrol — A medieval visionary planted an olive tree 700 years ago that now thrives below the Trauttmansdorff Castle.

Adam and Eve picking an apple at the gardens — Vin giving these two a boost as they pluck fruit from a tree.

Experience Nature in Remarkable New Ways

One of the things we love most about the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is that it fully immerses you in natural wonders in new ways. From a multimedia Grotto to a Garden of Love, Botanical Underworld and much more, the gardens creatively capture your imagination and elevate your senses beyond expectations.

At the gardens, you can even summon a mountain spirit to experience a healing massage through a sounding stone. This involves surrendering your head to the mountain through a cavity and humming. The sounding stone reveals when you have hummed the right tone by sending soothing vibrations throughout your body. Such stones were used in ancient cultures to support healing and wellness.

Make sure to also trek to the Aviary high above the castle. Here, you admire ever chatty parrots in an environment that feels as if you wandered into a jungle.

Where's Kate in the garden maze? — Where’s Kate?

Being hard headed pays off. Experiencing the ancient wonders of sounding stones.

A couple pauses to take a selfie in the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle’s “Garden of Love”.

When to Explore the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Bringing the gardens to life and maintaining their beauty each year is no easy feat. More than 100 employees work through spring, summer and fall to ensure the promise of natural grandeur for every visitor. Good luck finding a weed.

The Trauttmansdorff team keeps the gardens open from the end of March to the middle of November. We have been to the gardens in the spring and fall. Both seasons here are equally magical. The sweet aromas of bloom and harvest follow your every step.

For us, we find the spring season the most enjoyable time to visit. Few things enliven you like the awakening of flora after a long winter slumber.

While you can cover the gardens in 2-3 hours, plan to spend a morning or afternoon exploring its glory. Each time we visit we dine afterward at the Schlossgarten Restaurant, which is located at the castle and offers lovely views of the gardens below. The restaurant features local specialties and pasta dishes.

Perhaps it’s the Mediterranean ambiance, but we’ve always craved pasta after visiting. The Italian cuisine we’ve dined on at the Schlossgarten has always been wonderful. It’s also a good place to rest your legs and sip a Veneziano, a favorite cocktail of the region.

Sipping on a Veneziano — The Schlossgarten Restaurant offers a lovely setting for a meal and a refreshing Veneziano or two.

How to Visit the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Reaching the gardens is easy by foot, car or bus. As mentioned previously, you can walk the well-marked Sissi’s Path. It begins in downtown Merano and winds through the lovely Maia Alta neighborhood, which is dotted with castles, villas and other stately residences. The walk takes roughly 45 minutes. Plan for an hour if you like to meander like us!

If you have a rental car and are staying outside of Merano’s city center, parking is available for €3.50/day across from the gardens. Once you’ve parked you will take a footbridge over the highway to reach the ticket center.

To visit the gardens by bus you will take Line 1 or Line 1B depending on the day of the week you choose to come. We suggest confirming which line and checking the times by visiting the SASA bus service site.

The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff is open 7 days a week. The hours vary by season. You can look up the times by visiting their official website. Ticket prices are quite reasonable at €13.00. Kids 6 and under are free. Seniors receive a discounted price of €10.50.

As you can see the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle are a botanical and architectural masterpiece. A true jewel of Europe. If you are planning a visit to South Tyrol you need to add them to your itinerary. You will not regret making time to wander here.

The Tappeiner Promenade – Italy’s Most Enchanting Walk

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

Imagine breezing lazily by dramatic Alpine scenery that tumbles into lush Mediterranean landscapes ripe with vineyards, orchards and palms — all held under the spell of castles, spires and the wooing Italian sun.

Sound tempting? Welcome to the Tappeiner Promenade in Merano, Italy.

This South Tyrolean jewel is blessed from mountain peak to mountain peak with so much rich history and natural splendor you could meander from dusk to dawn never tiring of its beauty.

In this post, we show you how to enjoy the Tappeiner Promenade from beginning to end. As you’ll see, whether visiting in spring, summer or fall, walking the promenades of Merano ravishes your senses no matter the season.

In fact, we found our first stroll so enchanting, we return time and time again. We bet you’ll do the same.

Settling in Merano

Merano famously basks in 300-days of sunshine a year, but a rainy mist greeted us on our first visit. October clouds hung stubbornly low in the afternoon sky.

However, this unexpected gloom did not dampen the sight of Hotel Partaneshof, our home for the next few days. Its inviting chalet-like character would have charmed us even in a storm.

Hotel Garni Partaneshof in Merano — The balcony of **Hotel Partaneshof** gave us a front-row seat to an autumn sky set ablaze by the sun.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offered us an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona earlier in the week.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of wine from the Partaneshof cellar. After traveling a better part of the day, unwinding with a South Tyrolean wine sounded better than unpacking.

Our room came with a balcony bestowing a wide-open view of the Texel Mountains. We lounged back in chairs and savored the panorama over a glass of Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). If there was a better place to sit and ponder how to spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was perfect.

Hotel Partaneshof in Merano — Settling in Merano with wine, views and a Cuban.

Prior to arriving, we read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade — a popular 2.5-mile path offering sweeping views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures posted, we agreed. Besides, a long, carefree walk amid the Italian Alps was a natural remedy after a day hunkered in a car.

Finding the Tappeiner Promenade

In the morning, a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast of mountain-born cold cuts, freshly baked bread and yogurt topped with local berries met a quick end at our table. While it was tempting to linger in the sunlight pouring over the terrace, the desire to explore kept us moving.

We were uncertain how to begin our walk on the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running north above Merano along the face of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know the path loomed several hundred feet upslope from our hotel.

The map noted multiple places to enter the promenade, but Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town. Taking this route would allow us to experience nearly all of Merano’s promenades. She suggested first roaming the Passer Promenade then crossing the Passer River to the Summer Promenade. From there, connecting with the Gilf Promenade and finally Tappeiner.

The Passer Promenade – A Regal River Walk

The Evangelical Church of Christ rests next to the Passer River.

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River reveling along the Passer Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of the year but is especially delightful in the winter when its sunny exposure washes away the chill.

The first architectural marvel we came across was the Evangelical Church of Christ. Built in 1883, its spire storms into the sky like a mountain peak all its own. But even more impressive was the grove of giant birch trees arching over the bastion of beautifully chiseled stone.

We continued on past processions of palm trees, flower beds and bustling riverside cafes until encountering another masterpiece of Merano — the Kurhaus. The largest Art Nouveau building in Alps, the Kurhaus arose in the 1800s as a venue for aristocratic mingling.

Kurhaus in Merano — The Kurhaus crowns the Passer promenade before the Ponte della Posta bridge.

Today, it hosts concerts in addition to an array of cultural events from wine tastings to conventions. The ornate details and tall portico columns paint a vivid picture of what Merano must have been like when royals held sway over the land.

Just beyond the Kurhaus, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. Together, the light posts mark the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, a bridge beautified with a wrought-iron balustrade showcasing sunlit fleur de lis and grapevine motifs.

We crossed the bridge, pausing to appreciate the roving fury of the river from both sides. Once across, we spotted the Summer Promenade beginning to our left.

But before venturing down it, the austere face of the 15th century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito caught our curiosity. Its bleak exterior amid the spectacle of Merano lured us in for a brief visit.

Church of Santo Spirito in Merano — Rebuilt in 1483 after being ravished by a flood, the Church of Santo Spirito is a Gothic relic inside and out.

Inside, three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes reverently conceived more than 700 years ago. These precious historical treasures lit by candle flame hauntingly held our gaze. We always find such places possessing alluring energy — where past and present harmonize in a timeless stillness.

The church was first built in 1271 by the will of Count Mainardo II, a ruler often regarded as the true founder of Tyrol. A flooding Passer river destroyed it in 1419, but the church was rebuilt in 1483 in its present conformation.

The Summer Promenade – The Footsteps of an Empress

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”.

Empress Sissi Statue — A beauty for the ages. The statue of Sissi greets you at the start of the Summer Promenade.

Empress Elisabeth was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliffside.

Sissi adored Merano. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. An early pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was cherished by Sissi. Thus it’s fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk.

While the Passer Promenade bathed us in heavenly sunlight the Summer Promenade’s soaring sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into the forested realm.

Under the canopy, nature put on a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leaves. As we walked, the path gently sloped closer to the Passer. The river splashed rhythmically over rocks joining a choir of birds lost in song.

Across the Ponte Romano

The Summer Promenade is not long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the mighty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

Ponte Romano Bridge in Merano — The mighty stonework of the 400-year-old Ponte Romano Bridge carries you to the Gilf Promenade.

We paused midway to again admire the river roaring underneath. On the right side, a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge.

Forged in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned. But don’t fret. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another fortress to visit is far from difficult.

The Gilf Promenade – Awash in Lushness

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Passer and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward.

But before making the ascent, we took time to watch kayakers brave the icy waters below. Their deftness in negotiating the torrent of boulders bordered on mystifying.

Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The abundance of greenery around us was like walking into an open-air conservatory.

The morning’s dew under the sun illuminated untold luxuriant subtropical plants, sweetly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. It was quite clear. The Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudest from the Gilf Promenade.

We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliffside.

After soaking in the sight, we walked on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork of an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

The Tappeiner Promenade – Serene Beauty Above Merano

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and the chain of snow-kissed mountains grasping the sky from the valley floor.

The promenade was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. His vision is a gift to visitors today. Immaculately manicured flower gardens litter the entire promenade amid stands of giant magnolias, cypresses, olive trees, palmettos and more. A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

In addition to the breathtaking vistas riddled between the verdant veils, the Tappeiner Promenade offered us more remarkable sights as we ventured on.

We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steals a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

The first was a crenelated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements, commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

Admiring the Steeple of St. Nicholas Church

We continued along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steal a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired at many points throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. We could discern details of its intricate clock and sundial.

St. Nicholas Church from the Tappeiner Promenade — The tower of the Church of St. Nicholas possesses such a lustrous presence that if the sun refused to shine, it would not surprise us if light still fell upon Merano.

From our experience, many medieval towers exhibit a similar look, but the Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. The exquisite vision, craftsmanship and artistry it took to build the church in the 13th and 14th century make it a medieval treasure to behold.

After several snap-happy moments with our camera, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels, stately villas and restaurants offering enticing seats to absorb the surroundings.

A Gathering of Scents

On many occasions along the promenades of Merano, we encountered savory scents from roses to grapes to pine. But the Kräutergarten (herb garden) dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Tucked just below the Tappeiner Promenade, the garden is flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants woven into the landscape.

We floated through inhaling rosemary, thyme and other exotic aromas. The fragrant beds were calming; slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine with us. If there’s one place where you should linger longer in South Tyrol, it is on this walk.

Leafy Labyrinths

Eventually, the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grapevines now surrounded us from above and below.

Unlike the cliche image of Italian vineyards stiffly spanning rolling fields, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades, made from rustic porticos with only the foliage of the vine visible.

Vineyards in Merano, Italy — Terraced vineyards run below and above the Tappeiner Promenade immersing you in a world of vines.

South Tyrol’s vine painted slopes amongst the pure white snow summits make vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from Bacchus. When the leaves of the vines softly sway in the breeze, you can be forgiven for thinking its the breath of the Gods upon them.

Paradise by Foot

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — The Brunnenburg Castle beckons walkers from a cliff north of the Tappeiner Promenade.

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Castle Tirol, tempted from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, on a glacial moraine, the Brunnenburg Castle menaced with its multi-turreted tower. Both castles looked as if Tolkien himself had written them into the mountainside.

But before claiming their thrones, we came across an ivy-clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It too looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

We sat in Cafe Unterweger’s sunny patio clinging to the cliffside. The bountiful bloom of the Merano basin held our eyes. The scent of ripe fruit caressed Alpine winds bathing us in the sweet fragrance of harvest. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. The castle trek could wait. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view, we had found just the right place for it.

Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies in strollers to the elderly walking their dogs. As you can tell in this post, our favorite time to stroll the promenades is in the fall, but rest assured you will find them enchanting any time of year.

If enchantment is in your future, access our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. You’ll receive comprehensive guides on how to get the most out of your adventures in South Tyrol.

SAVE THE TAPPEINER PROMENADE TO YOUR TRAVEL PLANS

Your Guide to Visiting Bolzano – The Gateway to the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 48 Comments

With the snow-dusted Dolomites boldly calling beyond its vine-drenched hillsides, Bolzano, Italy embraces you and seductively whispers an enticing blend of cultures deep into your being…

A VISIT TO BOLZANO — or Bozen as it is also known — immerses you in centuries of German, Italian and Austrian influences not to mention a riveting history that surpasses ancient Rome by 3,000 years. Often referred to as “The Gateway to the Dolomites”, this vibrant capital of South Tyrol crystalizes why the region is one of the must-see hidden gems of Europe.

Tucked between Innsbruck to the north and Trento to the south, Bolzano boasts a quality of life that ranks at the top in Italy. No surprise considering it balances all the perks of a youthful city with old-world charm and sensibilities — all amid jaw-dropping natural splendor. In fact, venturing from Bolzano to the Dolomites takes less than 30 minutes.

In this article, we help you discover Bolzano’s lasting charm. With our step-by-step guide, you’ll enjoy an unforgettable time in South Tyrol’s most cosmopolitan city.

What to Do in Bolzano

#1 Ease into a Sun-kissed Morning

Head to the historic center of the city. Start your day with a hot chocolate, cappuccino or tea at one of Bolzano’s cozy street-side cafes. Joviality will join you the second you take a seat. The Mediterranean climate in this part of South Tyrol makes enjoying morning’s light next to divine. Sit back and watch the city come to life.

Go full South Tyrolean by ordering up a freshly-baked krapfen. Krapfen is a delicious doughnut-like pastry filled with apricot or jam marmalade. Careful, as one may turn into two.

While relaxing install the BZMobile app — the official guide to visiting Bolzano — on your smartphone. The app lets you flip through a comprehensive list of attractions, restaurants, walks and more.

Now take a deep breath. It’s okay. You’re not going to see everything Bolzano offers in one day — this is a dolce vita town made for lazy strolls that effortlessly spill into meandering conversations over lattes and wine.

Now is a good time to plan to stay in the area longer. If that’s doable, consider obtaining the Bolzano Bozen Card. This card is complimentary at participating hotels and provides free access to numerous museums in Bolzano and 90 other museums throughout South Tyrol. Included with the card are English-speaking city tours and guided excursions from Bolzano to the Dolomites National Park, along with free use of all public transportation throughout South Tyrol.

#2 Visit Bolzano’s Poetic Heart

The best way to discover a city is through its culinary traditions. You can embark on such a mouth-pleasing adventure through the Bolzano Street Food Tour. This 2 ½ hour outing begins at 10:00 a.m. and includes 5 stops where you’ll indulge in local specialties such as bread, sausage, sweets, as well as historical nuggets shared by your tour guide.

this is a dolce vita town made for lazy strolls that effortlessly spill into meandering conversations over lattes and wine.

If you enjoyed one too many krapfens, a morning food tour may not be for you. In that case, set off on your own to see some of Bolzano’s treasured sights. The perfect starting point is the city’s “living room” or Waltherplatz, which is the town square.

At the center looms a remarkable statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, a renowned poet and Minnesinger from the Middle Ages believed to have been born in South Tyrol. He was the Jim Morrison of the medieval age. Sculpted in 1889 from South Tyrol’s revered Lasser marble, the statue stands on an impressive fountain encircled by flowers.

Christmas Market in Bolzano — Waltherplatz hosts a variety of special events throughout the year including the oldest Christmas market in Italy.

Walther Square in Bolzano, the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide — Of all the things to do in Bolzano, paying homage to the great Walther von der Vogelweide is a must. His remarkable marble monument watches over sun-lovers reveling in Waltherplatz.

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The Waltherplatz is the ideal spot for lingering and people watching. From late November to early January, it hosts one of Italy’s largest Christmas markets. The square comes alive like a wintry fairy tale with puppet shows, festive pastries, ample cups of Glühwein, horse-drawn carriage rides and 80+ stalls of seasonal gifts, treats and crafts. If you’re visiting Bolzano at this time, we highly recommend taking public transportation instead of driving due to the popularity of this market.

The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes Bolzano a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you've left.

From the square, it’s impossible to miss the Gothic-Romanesque cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, which is the largest Gothic church in South Tyrol. The cathedral was originally constructed in the 12th century and took on its Gothic form in the 14th century.

Crowning the cathedral is an ornately patterned roof matching the vibrancy of the square. Its steepled bell tower chisels into the sky. The stonework is striking. Two weathered lions guard its entrance and form the base of two columns supporting an archway. A massively forged door with curious carvings of the Isarco river and the Dolomites welcomes worshipers.

Inside, lovers of medieval art can enjoy frescoes from the 1300s and marvel at the cathedral’s pulpit. It is a masterful work of Gothic art sculpted in 1507. While visiting, see if you can spot the hunter and fox lingering within its etchings.

Bolzano Church Pulpit from 1507 — Towering next to Bolzano’s bustling Waltherplatz lies Our Lady of the Assumption — the largest Gothic church in South Tyrol. A medieval masterpiece inside and out.

#3 Wander Where the Streets Have No Lame

Leaving the cathedral, head to the Via Portici (also called Laubengasse) just north of the square. This street was the first to ever run through Bolzano. A pulsating center of trade for nearly 1,000 years, arcaded shops now greet you on both sides for as far as the eye can see.

You can simply walk along appreciating the many storefronts, but the real gems are inside. You’ll find everything from traditional crafts and attire to designer clothing, shoes and more.

Even if you don’t intend to purchase any goods, be sure to peek into a few shops. Many walls still showcase ancient frescoes revealing age-old market scenes.

While the shops are fun to explore, the colorful facades lining the Via Portici really bring your imagination to life. They vividly exhibit a melodic blend of Italian and German architectural influences decorated with murals, carvings and other artistic expressions.

Bolzano Arcaded Shops — If you can’t decide what to do in Bolzano first, engage in a bit of retail therapy. The arcaded shops running along the Via Portici have been attracting shoppers since 1180!

Along Via Portici, you’ll also find the Mercantile Museum and Mercantile Palace founded by Claudia de‘ Medici. This is the only Renaissance-style building in Bolzano.

It once served as a court of justice for the Mercantile Court. Today, the museum tells the fascinating story of Bolzano’s economic importance through the centuries.

#4 Enjoy an Authentic South Tyrolean Lunch

After consuming so much history, art and architecture it’s only natural to settle in for a long lunch. Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele.

A cultural gem of Bolzano, the establishment was first mentioned in 1277 and held secret gatherings in World War II. Gaining entrance to these meetings required whispering “Vögele”, which means “little bird”.

Wirsthaus Vögele is a member of Sudtiroler Gasthaus — an organization dedicated to carefully preserving South Tyrolean restaurant culture and quality. The restaurant conjures a cozy atmosphere with a winding assortment of dining rooms each offering its own ambiance.

If you’re visiting Bolzano during asparagus season in April or May, be sure to try a dish with “spargel”. Our asparagus risotto was as good as a sweetly sung melody from Walther von der Vogelweide himself!

Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele.

Another excellent choice for lunch is the Stadt Cafe & Restaurant which sits along the edge of the Waltherplatz. Expansive windows on the front, as well as an outdoor seating area, allow you to continue people watching while also soaking views of forested slopes bounding into the horizon.

A well thought out menu offers the type lunchtime fare that will please you whether desiring Italian or traditional South Tyrolean dishes. The desserts are decadent here so pace yourself.

stadtt cafe pasta dish — Craving pasta? The Stadt Cafe & Restaurant provides a remarkable setting to savor Italian.

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#6 Journey 5000+ Years Back in Time

After lunch, head west on Via Portici. You’re about to go back in time…way back. You’ll eventually come to the home of Bolzano’s most famous resident at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.

At the age of 5,300 years old, Ötzi the Iceman is a remarkably well-preserved corpse. Mummified naturally by glacier ice, he’s the oldest intact human body ever found. His discovery by two hikers in 1991 on a mountainside in South Tyrol’s Ötztal Alps shook the world.

See Ötzi up close at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano.

A scientist examining Otzi. — A scientist examining the body of Ötzi (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology/EURAC/Samadelli/Staschitz).

Analysis of his body indicates an arrow cut Ötzi’s life short. Fortunately, that type of hospitality has long left South Tyrol.

If Ötzi were alive today no doubt he would be the leader of a biker gang. Scientists discovered 61 tattoos across his body. We highly recommend buying your tickets online before you go. See our latest post for more riveting facts about the life, death and discovery of Ötzi.

#7 Amble Along the Piazza delle Erbe

When you’re through visiting Ötzi, you may be craving a mid-afternoon snack. Head back to the city center to the Piazza delle Erbe, a lively marketplace since 1295.

Spend time browsing the stalls overflowing with fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers and other specialties such as regional meats, cheeses and baked goods. If you walk away without picking up a tasty delight or two you’ll be insulting a 700+ year tradition on the streets of Bolzano.

The Fountain of Neptune in Bolzano — The Fountain of Neptune watches over the patrons of the Piazza delle Erbe market.

The Fountain of Neptune statue is an imposing presence as you venture through the open-air market. The sable monument with his fierce trident looms above the cobblestones. Sculpted in 1745, it is considered among the most impressive fountains in Italy.

#8 Encounter the Legend of St. Francis…and a Descendant of Dracula

From the market, wander north along the Franziskanergasse to the Franciscan Friary. Founded in 1221, the friary contains a Gothic church, chapel and cloisters with frescoes dating back to the 14th century.

Franciscan Friary in Bozen — While visiting Bolzano, a young Saint Francis supposedly attended Mass in the chapel that is today part of the friary.

Taking time to study the lively scenes as you walk under the cloisters is a rewarding experience for anyone curious about medieval history.

It is believed Saint Francis partook in Mass in the Chapel while visiting Bolzano with his cloth merchant father who was in town on business.

Another legend also enshrouds the friary albeit one much more nightmarish. The funeral stone and tomb of the real-life Count Dracula’s great-grandson forever marks its hallowed walls.

His name was Petru Schiopul, but he was known as “Peter the Lame”. He died in 1594. His remains rest within a tomb sealed with a stone bearing the carving of a bull’s head, the traditional symbol of Moldavia as well as a carving of the devil.

Grandson of Dracula Funeral Stone — Tread lightly. The funeral stone and remains of Count Dracula’s great-grandson are forever a part of the Franciscan Friary.

#9 Explore the Wines & Castles of Bolzano

If your day has not been consumed by the old world charms of Bolzano, you can either hop back in your car or rent a bike for a 25-minute ride to the Messner Mountain Museum Firmian located within Sigmundskron Castle. Just 4 miles southeast of Bolzano’s city center, this museum explores the relationship between man and mountain as inspired by the legendary climber Reinhold Messner (check out this piece about why Messner is the world’s great living man).

Biking in Bolzano — Bolzano is one of the most bike-friendly towns in Italy. Consider renting one to see the sights like a local.

Next, you can venture up to the ancient ruins of Schloss Rafenstein, which watch over the city. Enjoy some of the South Tyrolean treats you picked up earlier as you admire the views.

Then head over to Castel Roncolo (Schloss Runkelstein), also known as the Painted Castle (note: the castle is also accessible from the Talvera-Promenade in the city center or the line 12 shuttle bus from Waltherplatz). This well-preserved 12th-century castle showcases frescoes inside and out lending a colorful window back to life in medieval times.

Castle Runkelstein / Castle Roncolo — Castel Roncolo is a well-preserved 12th-century fortress that lends a colorful window into life during the Middle Ages.

If you’re feeling inclined to embark on a wine tasting, Bolzano will enchant you with the exquisite Alpine wines of South Tyrol. In fact, a saying you might hear while visiting is “Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine.”

Sure, Venice has its appeal, but we’ll take the joyful buoyancy of Bolzano’s wine over water any day.

An unforgettable place to explore this truth is a winery located deep within a mountain on the northern end of town. Intrigued? Read more about our tasting at Kellerei Bozen. Making a trek to this 100+-year-old icon of wine while visiting Bolzano is a must for wine and architecture lovers alike.

#10 Dine & Sip the Evening Away

There is not any shortage of exceptional evening dining options in and around Bolzano. Our recommendation is to head back to the city center to dine at the much-celebrated Restaurant Laurin located in the Parkhotel Laurin. Here, you can let the culinary magic of head chef Manuel Astuto dazzle your senses in an Art Noveau setting beautified with palm trees.

He is a master of fusing South Tyrol’s Mediterranean heart with the soul of the surrounding mountains. Some of the world’s biggest movie stars have come to crave his South Tyrolean creations. So much so they fly him around the world to prepare meals at their private parties.

No matter where you choose to eat, be sure to order a glass of Lagrein as you’re in the home of this robustly flavored, but smooth wine.

A dish from Manuel Astuto at Hotel Laurin in Bolzano — Chef Manuel Astuto is a culinary star at the Parkhotel Laurin restaurant. A master in creating dishes with mouth-watering presentation and equally arresting flavors.

Additional Sights & Activities While Visiting Bolzano

If conquering castles is not your thing, consider immersing yourself in the natural beauty around Bolzano. One option is to catch the Ritten/Renon cable car. It whisks you high above Bolzano to the Ritten / Renon high plateau.

From up here, you can hike a variety of trails and take in wide-open views of the Dolomites’ Rosengarten and Schlern massifs. You can also trek to the surreal 25,000-year-old Earth pyramids. These odd natural formations look like stone thorns piercing the mountainside. An almost eerie sight you will not forget.

Autumn is the perfect time for relaxing walks along the Renon Chestnut Trail.

The San Genesio cable car offers a climb to even more hiking paths. This is the ancestral home to the Haflinger horse which is a blonde horse breed born in the mountains of South Tyrol. Visit nearby stables and book a horseback ride or let someone else take the reins and enjoy the views from a horse-drawn carriage. Numerous alpine huts dot the trails allowing you to stop for a meal and a drink.

Getting to Bolzano

If you’re holidaying other northern Italy destinations such as Venice or Lake Como, consider visiting Bolzano. The city is easy to fit into your trip plans. It’s just 2 to 3 hours away by car, bus or train.

Arriving by car is utterly gorgeous. Check out our guide on driving in Italy to ensure you’re ready.

We recommend parking on the outskirts of the city center. The Parcheggio Mareccio is a convenient lot located off Via Claudia de’ Medici with the 13th-century Maretsch Castle as its backdrop. The castle is now an event center, but tourists can visit when events are not taking place. Its tower boasts one of the best views of Bolzano.

From this lot, you can easily be in the center of Bolzano within a 10-minute walk. On your way back to your car, opt for a scenic stroll along the “Meadows of Talvera”, a beautiful park set along the river Talvera.

Our first exposure to Bolzano left us craving more and we’re certain yours will too. The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes the city a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you’ve left. If you’re like us, you may just want to make Bolzano, Italy your new home!

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for arranging our lovely tour with our guide Luciano Rech. We highly recommend him. Learn more about tour options here.

Have you been to this alluring town? Let us know in the comments below if we missed any of the best things to do in Bolzano.

Book a Tour from Bolzano to the Dolomites

In addition to spending time amid Bolzano’s cobblestoned avenues, consider booking a tour of the Dolomites. See the options below.

VISITING BOLZANO IN THE FUTURE? PIN THIS POST!

The Ötzi photos provided courtesy of South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.

Treks in the Dolomites – Hiking Where Witches Roam

By Kate & Vin 29 Comments

Autumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.

Hiking Trail on Alpe di Siusi — The mountains of Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm) are shrouded in legends and bloodcurdling tales.

With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.

The Witches of Schlern Mountain

A corner of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet brooding scene for any trekker.

But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.

He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil.

According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday by the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms from Schlern’s fang-toothed peaks.

Schlern Moutain — Storm clouds gather around the Witches’ Mountain – Schlern / Sciliar.

In fact, one legend tells of a bull grazing the rolling hills near the village of Seis, just below the massif, and discovering a bell in the earth. The villagers hung the mysterious bell in the bulbous spire of the ancient St. Valentin Chapel. When storms reigned down, the residents would fervently ring the bell to break the witches’ spell.

Schlern sunset — The setting sun burns the October sky above the peaks of Schlern.

Hikers can visit a revered site of the witches known as the “Witches’ Benches” (Hexenbänke in German) located on Mount Bullaccia (Puflatsch). Bullaccia haunts to the north of Schlern mountain offering some of most jaw-dropping views of Alpe di Siusi and beyond.

The Witches Benches captivate the imagination. They are rock formations resembling spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if the stone thrones are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.

A Witch’s Curse

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky.

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history.

Schlern menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed. Their crime? Stealing babies and riding upon brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the Devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake.

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays.

Prösels Castle was once the site of witch trials in South Tyrol.

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Have Broom Will Travel

Getting to Alpe di Siusi is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

If you want to experience South Tyrol’s witch folklore firsthand, we recommend departing from Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German). From intricate witch wood carvings to themed shops and restaurants as well as the occasional stray black cat, witches abound from its centuries-old cobblestones.

Hexenkeller Restaurant in Castelrotto — Restaurants such as the Hexenkeller in Castelrotto pay tribute to the enchanting folklore of the Dolomites.

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although the plateau is accessible year-round.

The witching hours of October make a tempting time to explore how land and legend weave together to create folklore that stirs one’s darkest fears. The cable cars still carry adventurers to the top through much of October if the weather allows it.

Another good time to seek out witches on Alpe di Siusi is on Walpurgis Night, which takes place every May 1st. According to locals, Walpurgis Night is when witches, wizards and other wicked spirits and ghouls meet on Schlern to celebrate the “Witches Sabbath”.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk.

The celebration is said to involve dancing, drinking and feasting until dawn, as well as a guest appearance by the Devil himself in the form of a goat.

For centuries, peasants took measures to protect their cattle on Walpurgis Night. They locked and sealed stable doors with three crosses. In addition, sprigs of ash, hawthorn, juniper, and elder, once sacred to the pagan gods, were used to guard against evil.

However, the night was not filled only with dread. The locals also saw it as a time of omen. Specifically, if it rained. An old saying goes: “On Walpurgis Night rain. Makes good crops of autumn grain,”

How to Reach the Witches’ Benches

Once you are on the Alpe di Siusi, the Witches’ Benches are about a 1-2 hour hike depending on which cable car you choose.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk. It menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

From Castelrotto, take the Marizen Chairlift to the Marizen Alp. Then follow trail no. 9 through the forestland of Tiosels until you come to trail no. 8, which leads to the right up to Alpe di Siusi.
On Alpe di Siusi, trail no. 8 will intersect with trail no. 14. Follow it to the left and stay on it until reaching the Witches’ Benches.

Witches Chairs in Castelrotto — The Witches’ Chairs above Castelrotto make another hex-worthy trek through dense forests.

On your trek back to Castelrotto, you may wish to stay on trail no. 8 descending further down the slope to another mysterious stone formation shrouded in legend: The Witches’ Chairs (Hexenstühle).

Two stones appear as literally chairs facing the valley. Like the Witches’ Benches, it is not known if these are man-made or oddities of nature.

To return to Castlerotto from the Witches’ Chairs, stay on trail no. 8 until you can take a left on trail no. 7 into town. The hike back is less than an hour.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

South Tyrol Casts a Spell

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart.

Its a spell you’ll undoubtedly want to share with others, but sometimes such bewitching autumn hexes are best left for others to discover on their own.

As in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury: “Beware the autumn people…They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles, breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.

SAVE THE WITCHES’ BENCHES TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST!

Reverent Beauty: Discover the Wayside Shrines of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 57 Comments

ONE CANNOT WANDER in South Tyrol without encountering the sacred craftsmanship of wayside shrines. Whether haunting you from the shadows of a forest or enchanting you from a snow-kissed summit, they are always worth pausing your stride to study their beauty.

You are, after all, in a land of endearing traditions. And a visit here barely touches the region’s allure if you only come for the natural splendor.

In fact, culturally-curious souls will find the enduring preservation of South Tyrol’s Alpine roots one of its most charming aspects. When you spend a day on a trail experiencing such hallowed sights, they are as moving as the sweeping mountain vistas.

The First Wayside Shrines

How did wayside shrines come to grace the valleys and mountainside of South Tyrol? Wayside shrines arose through a custom born in Christianity’s earliest years. Ancient Rome’s persecution of the first Christians made the open construction of churches virtually impossible. Countless early Christians met their end at the edge of a gladiator sword or the jaws of a lion.

Wayside shrines can be found throughout the Dolomites.

In place of churches, the faithful erected small monuments with cryptic Christian symbols to conceal worship from Roman soldiers. These hidden “signposts” became the earliest Christian shrines.

When Constantine the Great, the first Christian Roman emperor, decriminalized Christianity in 313 A.D. by issuing the Edict of Milan, mass persecution of Christians ended. Churches sprung up across Catholic Europe and the tradition of hidden shrines evolved into open illuminations of faith.

medieval wayside shrine — In this artwork from 1508, pilgrims congregate around a wayside shrine.

With South Tyrol’s position in the Alps, the land became a bridge so to speak for Christians traveling between northern and southern Europe. Pilgrims would frequently cross over the mountainous landscape where they could encounter danger at any turn.

Wayside shrines were welcome sights to those who made the road their home. Not only did they serve a spiritual purpose, but also as markers to religious sites such as the Abbey of Novacella (Neustift Monastery). This ancient monastery is nestled near Brixen, South Tyrol’s oldest town, and is one of the oldest wineries in the world.

Each Path its Wayside Shrine

There is something almost romantic about South Tyrol’s wayside shrines as author John L. Stoddard noted more than 100 years ago:

Each vineyard has its crucifix, each path its wayside shrine,
Where flowers adorn the Virgin’s brow, and crown the Child divine;
And few will pass those sacred spots without a lifted eye,
A crossing of the weary breast, a prayer, — at least a sigh.

Whether we’re hiking a high mountain trail or meandering along a path in a valley, we always find them a delightful surprise. They seem to welcome you out of nowhere — poetically watching over the trail. Inviting a moment of prayer or reflection.

Set along paths, roads and nestled in village nooks, South Tyrol’s wayside shrines come in countless shapes and sizes. No matter how big or small, simple or elaborate, local residents take great care to beautifully harmonize them with the natural surroundings.

Each is tenderly crafted from wood or stone. And within many, you’ll find a crucifix or an image of the Madonna hauntingly expressed in various artistic forms.

Some also bear rosaries, photographs and other thoughtfully-carved prayers and blessings. The faithful will even keep candles burning, softly lighting all that the shrine holds. Quite often native flowers spring from the foot of shrines intimately binding them with heaven and earth.

Finding the Shrines of South Tyrol

Whether your South Tyrolean adventures carry you to the lofty heights of the Alps or through the bountiful orchards flourishing within valleys, you’ll come across shrines and crucifixes. Some of our favorites are along South Tyrol’s Waalwegs, ancient water channels that weave throughout the mountains and vineyards bestowing pure Alpine water from snow-capped peaks.

But where wayside shrines enthrall us the most is in the Dolomites. The sight of a wayside shrine against a backdrop of towering stone spires breaking into the Alpine sky is breathtaking. Whether trekking to Seceda or meandering across the prairies of Alpe di Siusi, several notable wayside shrines crown the paths.

Wayside Shrine in Seiser Alm, South Tyrol, Italy

Seceda Wayside Shrine — The mountainous jewel of Seceda showcases numerous religious works of art throughout its vast wilderness.

Even if your feet never leave the cobblestone streets of the many villages and hamlets sprinkled throughout the region, wayside shrines can often be found next to age-old churches and fanciful gardens of local residents. Many homeowners also enrich the exterior of their homes with a wayside shrine near an entrance.

The wide array of wayside shrines in South Tyrol create fantastic moments to capture with your camera. South Tyrol’s mountains express many moods giving photography enthusiasts the ultimate canvas to work on. We particularly enjoy coming across shrines early in the morning when clouds are beginning to lift off the timbered slopes.

Virgin Mary Shrine — Rosaries, photographs and candles decorate many of the wayside shrines you’ll encounter on your hikes.

Bringing the Wayside Shrine Tradition to Your Home

You don’t have to be religious or spiritual to find South Tyrol’s wayside shrines captivating. When you unexpectedly encounter one set among vines in a steep vineyard or deep within an Alpine forest, taking a moment to admire its beauty and the soulful devotion of the locals who safeguard the shrine is a reward unto itself.

For those who want to bring the enchanting sight of a wayside shrine to their home or garden, we have partnered with Holyart in Italy to offer wayside shrines from South Tyrol’s Val Gardena through Throne & Vine. These authentic wayside shrines are made from wood such as spruce and larch. Multiple styles are available starting at $63.00.

Carving a Wood Madonna — A DEUR Sculptures’ master woodcarver chiseling a shrine piece from chestnut.

Many woodcarving shops located throughout the villages of Ortisei, Selva di Val Gardena and S. Christina in Val Gardena offer wayside shrines for sale. These cozy shops will give you plenty of garden shrine ideas as well as ones ready to be hung on a wall within your home. Thankfully, fitting one in your suitcase is not an issue. Most shops will package and ship them abroad.

DEUR Sculptures Shop in St. Christina — The charming DEUR Sculptures shop in St. Christina.

Beyond shrines, the shops also sell countless other carvings from curious figurines to life-size statues that beautify some of the world’s most celebrated cathedrals. The artwork on display rivals that of a museum. Well worth a visit even if you do not intend to bring home a wayside shrine.

If you came across this article without knowing much about South Tyrol, take the time to discover what we consider Italy’s best-kept secret. Whether passing by a wayside shrine along a mountain trail or savoring authentic Alpine wine and cuisine from a local farm, the traditions of South Tyrol inspire a deep affection for the land and its people. A trip to this hidden gem in northern Italy stays with you for life.

The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 34 Comments

FEW SIGHTS CAPTURE the imagination quite like an imposing medieval castle towering from an even more imposing mountainside. South Tyrol has no shortage of them. The region swells with 800 castles and mansions spread over a variety of its Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes.

In fact, more castles loom from this corner of northern Italy than any other area of Europe.

Surrounded by vineyards, orchards, forests and hiking trails not to mention some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the world, South Tyrol’s castles provide a truly breathtaking way to plunge yourself into the Middle Ages.

You don’t have to be a kid at heart or a fanatic of Games of Thrones to find these fortresses fascinating. Here are some celebrated South Tyrolean medieval haunts you’ll want to visit.

Castle Tirol

Perhaps the most important castle in South Tyrol, Castle Tirol rises over a deep ravine in the village of Dorf Tirol. This riveting fortress was such a force in medieval times that it cast its name upon an entire land. From its ramparts, you’ll cast your eyes over sweeping views of apple orchards, terraced vineyards and the unfurling rich greenery of the Etschtal valley.

South Tyrol Castles — Picturesque even in the gloom of November. Many of South Tyrol’s castles, like Castle Tirol shown here, tower from rocky spurs erupting out of forested mountainsides.

Built in the 1100s, Castle Tirol was home to the Counts of Tyrol and wielded enough influence throughout Europe to earn ink in Dante’s Inferno, the epic poem first published in 1321.

The Tappeiner Promenade, Algunder Waalweg (a path along an ancient water channel) and Falconers’ Path (Falknerweg) wind around the castle presenting countless photo opportunities. Plus, a perfectly positioned beer garden nearby entices you to sit and savor the sights with a refreshing beverage in hand.

View from Castle Tirol — The sweeping mountain and valley views from Castle Tirol make it well worth the hike to reach it.

The castle is the perfect place to discover the history of South Tyrol as it also contains the South Tyrolean Museum of History. Spread out through several floors in the castle’s chief tower, the museum reveals a new era of South Tyrol as you walk up. Taking the time to soak in the marvelous past of the region is a must when visiting the castle.

During the holiday season, Castle Tirol also hosts a cozy Christmas market within its courtyard. Visiting it at this time of year is especially endearing as the castle imbues all who enter with an undeniable Christmas spirit.

Brunnenburg Castle

Perched below Castle Tirol is another fortress of equal majesty. The Counts of Tyrol constructed Brunnenberg Castle as a line of defense against an attack on Castel Tirol. It was erected in 1250, but fell like so many historic haunts fell into ruin over the centuries.

At the beginning of the 20th-century, a wealthy German gave Brunnenberg new life by resurrecting it to its former medieval glory. Unfortunately, it was abandoned again after his death in 1925.

The castle sat empty until 1948 when the daughter of troubled American poet, Erza Pound, restored it once again. Ten years later Erza Pound joined his daughter at Brunnenberg after his release from a mental institution.

Today, the castle is open for visitors from early April through October. In addition to revealing fascinating medieval history, Brunnenberg also allows enriches your historical understanding of traditional farming methods at the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum, which is located on the castle grounds.

Castle Taufers

Castle Taufers is one of the largest castles in South Tyrol. Staring up its stone walls chiseled with medieval brawn, it’s hard not to conjure up thoughts of Ned Stark boldly commanding from the castle’s throne room. Fortunately, you don’t have to be on the set of Game of Thrones to walk through its knightly halls. Castle Taufers attracts around 75,000 visitors each year.

Castle Taufers was residence to some of South Tyrol’s most powerful aristocrats of the 13th century. History abounds within. The castle boasts 64 rooms many of which are ornately decorated with paintings, chandeliers, intricate woodwork and weapons.

Castle Taufers in Winter — Castle Taufers watches over the village of Campo Tures in the far east corner of South Tyrol.

Among the most fascinating rooms are the torture chamber, the hall of knights, baroque library and the weapons hall. The castle’s Romanesque chapel captivates crucifix from around the year 1200. The chapel also showcases striking Gothic frescoes from 1482.

With its formidable appearance, it’s no surprise the Taufers Castle has found its way onto the silver screen. The castle served as the haunting backdrop to Roman’s Polanski’s 1967 horror classic: The Fearless Vampires, which starred Sharon Tate.

Trostburg Castle

Enthroned on a thundering mountainside above the Isarco river, the Trostburg Castle was the stalwart gatekeeper to the Val Gardena for centuries. The fortress, forged from stone around 1150, offers admirers a deep glimpse into life during the Middle Ages.

It was the childhood home to Oswald von Wolkenstein, an esteemed poet celebrated as the last Minnesinger of the Medieval Age. Interesting enough, the person often regarded as the first Minnesinger also came from South Tyrol: Walther von der Vogelweide.

Trostburg Castle Wine Cellar — The cantina at Trostburg Castle reveals how wine was made when kings and queens ruled from a throne.

Trostburg Castle houses the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles where you can view with 86 true-to-scale models of castles throughout South Tyrol. This makes Trostburg an ideal castle to visit first so you can get a better idea on which South Tyrolean castles pique your interest the most.

Reaching Trostburg Castle requires a long hike up a cobbled path, but all who make it are rewarded with awe-inspiring sights stretching across the Valle Isarco.

⇒ READ MORE: Claiming the Throne at Trostburg Castle

Castle Lebenberg

When walking along an ancient water channel carved into the steep mountainside, it’s easy to lose your breath at the sight Castle Lebenberg. The castle suddenly greets you from its perch after rounding a corner shrouded in grape vines. It vigilantly stands guard amidst rolling vineyards over the valley below.

The Lords of Marlengo constructed this elegant fortress in the 13th century. Castle Lebenberg fascinates visitors with its late Gothic chapel adorned in precious frescoes from the 14th century. The castle’s walls also hold a Hall of Mirrors and Hall of Knights that is complete with a collection of medieval weapons worth marveling at. Visitors can also explore an ornate French flower garden and inner courtyards straight out of a fable.

The most picturesque way to reach Castle Lebenberg is by hiking the Marlengo waalweg. From this trail, you’ll wander through forests, vineyards and orchards all while consuming the lushness of Merano and the surrounding mountains. A perfect way to spend a day in South Tyrol.

Prösels Castle

Erected more than 800 years ago, the Prösels Castle is a magnificent fortress with a haunting history. The castle sits in the shadow of Schlern mountain and in the 16th century was the site of witch trials, which resulted in the burning of dozens of women at the stake.

Despite its tragic past, the castle now serves as a place of celebration hosting many events and concerts. Its stark beauty against the rolling countryside leaves an impression you will not be quick to forget no matter the season you visit.

South Tryol Castles Prosels — Prösels Castle is a haunting fortress in more ways than one. Long ago, it was once the scene of several witch trials.

Churburg Castle

As much as Castle Taufers looks it belongs in Game of Thrones, it’s Churburg Castle that could be the inspiration for the swords, lances and armor of Westeros. For the last 500 years, Churburg Castle has remained within the same family and holds the largest collection of medieval armor in the world.

With 50 authentic suits of armor and accompanying weapons, one can only imagine the intense battles that were once fought to keep its arcaded courtyard with its two stories of frescoes fully-protected and remarkably-preserved to this day. The Churburg Castle is a feast for those drawn to the military history of Europe.

Churburg Castle Armor Suits — Churburg Castle remains battle ready with the largest assortment of medieval weaponry in the world.

South Tyrol Castles – See the Medieval Heart of Europe

With 800 plus castles to pick from on any given visit to South Tyrol, you’re sure to find one you would love to call home. Even South Tyrol’s castle ruins look enticing to live in amidst the expansive romantic backdrop of mountains, vineyards and orchards.

This list of castles to see in South Tyrol is obviously by no means exhaustive. But we hope you now have a sense for the medieval splendor awaiting your exploration. Too many travelers are not aware of the striking architecture and history lying in the far north of Italy.

We’ll leave with a word of caution to those that favor the couch over a trail. Getting to many of these magnificent structures can be challenging. Many cling to mountainsides requiring hikes up steep trails and rugged paths. By the time you get to the top, you’ll know if you were cut out to be a knight. But worry not. The view from a mountain-born castle always quickly washes away any memory of the trek up. Always. We guarantee it.

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