South Tyrol Historic Sights

Revelry of Spirit & Cask – Visiting Castel Rametz

With its towering battlements radiating amid vine-drenched hills and mountains lanced by snow, Castel Rametz is, without doubt, a quintessential sight of South Tyrol.

The wine estate, perhaps more than any other, illuminates what happens when Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes conspire with medieval contours to steal your breath.

Perched above of Merano in the luxuriant district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz was etched on our must-see list ever since first admiring its stately manner from the mountainside of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

When we discovered the estate hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit. The chance to turn several shades of merry before even setting foot in the traditional Christmas market of Merano was too enticing to pass up.

A Hillside Haunt Steeped in History

While Castel Rametz has seen rulers come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful owner to its throne. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of wine soon followed.

Antique photo of Castel Rametz — Castel Rametz has lorded over centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevating the romance of the estate. These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”. Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol.

Courting Christmas Cheer

We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of man’s best friend.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what at lied beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its hallowed stones.

Castel Rametz Mercatino — The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from the end of November through Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with exquisite holiday dazzle. Classy decor and a roaring fire made it a sanctuary for the season. Looking around, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

The old-world ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

A stand in the courtyard offered traditional delicacies to delight in while enjoying the smokey crackle of logs aflame. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to browse the Christmas market within the castle.

Inside, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar — The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is a marvel to browse.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The old-world character of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

Amid the glow of flickering flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow. In a nearby stone nook, a carefully carved nativity scene caught our eye. We studied its graceful beauty beneath lights casting the deep blue hues of a winter’s night sky.

Gift of the Vines – Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We could have remained enveloped in the ambiance of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wines that makes us want to uncork one. Embarking on a wine tasting next in Castel Rametz’s enoteca seemed wildly appropriate as our next stop.

We climbed the cellar stairs parking ourselves on two seats at the wine tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz — The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to enjoy a remarkable tasting.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly also brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Whether you're a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to uncork at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website.

A wayside shrine in the vineyards of Castel Rametz — The guardian of Castel Rametz watches vigilantly from the foot of the castle’s shrine.

Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also enjoy a meal here.

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Enchantment Set in Stone – Brunnenburg Castle

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

How do you defend a castle? If you are a Tyrolean, you build another beneath it. For almost 800 years, Brunnenburg Castle (also known as Castel Fontana) has stood like a stone shield to the most prominent castle in northern Italy — Castle Tirol.

In 1250, the Counts of Tyrol commissioned the fortress as a defensive outpost. It was erected on a glacial crag downslope from Castle Tirol providing watchmen a focused eye deep into the valley openings of Merano and Vinschgau.

Despite Brunnenburg’s position below Castle Tirol, both in royal command and mountain clinging elevation, this warden of the north is not any less impressive. Its ivy-mantled tower bears stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

The castle isolated on its own is enough to strike fear into an invading army. But seeing it paired with the mother of all castles looming above must have been a sight that sent road-weary raiders racing back to their homelands. Sacking one castle is hard enough. Two? Forget about it.

Sanctuary for a Troubled Poet

Today, instead of inspiring fear, Brunnenburg is more likely to inspire a poem. And in fact, it has. The castle was once home to the literary heavyweight, Erza Pound. After his release from a mental institution in 1958, Pound joined his daughter and grandchildren at Brunnenburg.

Brunnenburg's ivy-mantled towers bear stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

Erza Pound Portrait — Erza Pound, master of poetic prose. A comb? Not so much.

He spent his time tending to the castle grounds and gardens while continuing to pen prose for The Cantos — an epic poem that is comprised of 116 sections known as a “canto”. Given its length and often abstract musicality, The Cantos is viewed by many as a chaotic piece of work. Perhaps the genius of a fragmented mind that like the vines scaling Brunnenburg can only be adored in their entirety.

Pound’s daughter purchased the castle with her spouse 10 years prior to his arrival. Together, they saved Brunnenburg from a second bout of ruin. The first occurring hundreds of years earlier and lasting until 1903 when a wealthy German named Karl Schwickert bought the castle.

Schwickert thoroughly renovated Brunnenburg fashioning the castle into a more romantic form that woos visitors to this day. Yet for all its trappings of fancy, the castle could not escape tragedy. Schwickert’s wife suspiciously fell to her death from one of the balconies in 1904. He remained in the castle until his death in 1925.

Brunnenburg Folk Art — Brunnenburg Castle displays an assortment of fascinating historical artifacts and folk art from South Tyrol.

As Brunnenburg sat empty for more than 20 years, tales of hauntings arose as they tend to in soulless dwellings. Whether Pound ever encountered a ghost is not known. But by the reading of some of his poetry, one could say his mind was never far from hauntings of its own.

A Throne Amid the Vines

Brunnenburg Castle Vines — If only these age-old vines could tell tales.

Fortunately, you do not have to possess a mind wired for poetry or a heart pumping royal blood to stroll through the halls and terraces of Brunnenburg. Visiting the castle is a pleasant walk downhill from the village of Dorf Tirol along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path).

By the way, this is the same path you take to visit Castle Tirol. Several points along the journey give you sweeping views of both castles with the snow-kissed peaks of the Texel mountain group photobombing it all in the background.

Brunnenburg is most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn's paintbrush is most alive with vibrant color.

As you walk the path, you’ll notice a deep ravine dividing the two castles. Don’t worry. You don’t need to latch to a zip line to visit both. Look for a signpost directing to a path off-shooting to Brunnenburg. This winding treasure descends through terraced vineyards, orchards and patches of old growth forest. Be careful as you walk here. The fairytale scenery may just have you whistling an ode to a fair maiden or prince.

Another more adventurous way to reach the castle is by hiking up the mountainside from the Algunder Waalweg or Tappeiner Promenade. Despite being quite a bit more grueling, these two paths are our favorite way to reach Brunnenburg. When the castle’s crenelated walls appear seemingly out of nowhere above a steep vineyard, it is a sight that wins your heart as much as the seductive juice from the vines running up to its gate.

Reaching Brunnenburg by trekking the Tappeiner Promenade from the heart of Merano will make the most enchanting walk in Italy even more enthralling.

To visit the castle from either path, you will eventually depart the trails and walk on a road called Gnaidweg or Via Gnaid. This road will lead you to a rugged path known as Brunnenburgsteig. It leads you up through a forest along an irrigation channel flanked by a vineyard on your left and an orchard on your right. The passage through the forest is rather steep, but not dangerous.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

When to Visit Brunnenburg Castle

We have admired Brunnenburg Castle in spring, autumn and winter. Each season imparts its own beauty to the castle.

But we have found it the most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn’s paintbrush is most alive. Hiking along the Brunnenburgsteig then is like opening gift basket of aromas.

The Castles of Tirol — A brotherhood of strongholds, Castle Tirol and Brunnenburg Castle loom under the autumn sun.

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — Nothing else quite like Brunnenburg in autumn. The castle vines decorate the walls in the magnificent color of the season.

Beyond visiting the castle for a dose of medieval whimsy, it can also whisk you on a cultural odyssey. Brunnenburg is home to the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum and Erza Pound Memorial Center. The museum displays age-old equipment that speaks to the traditional methods of South Tyrolean winemakers and farmers once used to cultivate a season’s harvest.

In addition to the museum, you can appreciate a collection of historical folk art and a variety of domesticated farm animals trotting outside the castle including goats, sheep, pigs, chickens and geese. Grazing in such a heavenly place makes being a farm animal in South Tyrol look rather posh.

Saltner of South Tyrol — While visiting the castle, take time to walk through the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum. You can stand toe-to-toe with a “saltner”. While wearing wild-looking garb, his job was once to protect vineyards from birds and thieves.

Brunnenburg Castle is open for visitors from early April through October. Doors open at 10:00 am and close at 5 pm from Sunday-Thursday.

For those driving in South Tyrol, we recommend parking in the center of Dorf Tirol and walking to the castle from the village.

If you visit Brunnenburg and walk away with a poem, be sure to add it in the comments below. You may find yourself being a poet without ever knowing it.

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St. Valentin Chapel – A Hilltop Jewel in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 18 Comments

At the foot of the jarring Schlern massif lies one of the most beautiful churches of the Dolomites. St. Valentin Chapel is blessed with a mountain backdrop so immediate and immense it makes one’s heart flutter with awe.

The chapel’s existence was first documented in 1244; however, the exact year it came to grace a hilltop below the Siusi Alps is not known. But in a way, one could say the chapel saw its first breath of life on February 14th in 269 AD. The day a Christian priest, known as Valentine, met his end at the edge of a sword.

His crime? Violating an edict issued by Roman Emperor Claudius Gothicus that prohibited the marriage of young couples. The emperor believed unmarried soldiers made better warriors. His warped mind thought if soldiers had wives or children it would weigh too much on them in battle.

In 496, Pope Gelasius I inaugurated the Feast of Saint Valentine to be celebrated annually on February 14 in veneration of the Christian martyr. Hundreds of years later the chapel of St. Valentin was built to honor the saint. Fast forward hundreds of years more, and throngs of heart-shaped Hallmark cards with poetic effusions to love blanket marketplace shelves the world over each February.

That’s all fine and well, but we’ll take the reverant sight of St. Valentin Chapel over a dozen roses any day.

Here’s more about this historic hilltop jewel and how to enjoy it with your own eyes while adventuring in the Dolomites.

At the Gate of the Dolomites

Perched on a grassy knoll high above the idyllic village of Seis (Siusi), St. Valentin Chapel is a must-see for those spending time exploring the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), Europe’s largest Alpine prairie, which surges another 2,000 feet into the sky from where the chapel sits.

Its time-worn spire crowned with a crimson dome is impossible to miss no matter if you come into the village from the north or south.

The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

Besides its picturesque pose below the Siusi Alp, St. Valentin Chapel is celebrated for its remarkable frescoes inside and on its outer walls. They date back to the 14th and 15th century.

St. Valentin Chapel Fresco — A fresco on the outer wall of St. Valentin depicts a scene of the Three Kings with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background.

Schlern Massif — A looming presence. The view of the Schlern massif from St. Valentin Chapel.

We found one of the frescoes on the outer wall facing the village particularly intriguing as it shows the Three Kings greeting the infant Jesus with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background. The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

After admiring the medieval artwork, we took a seat at a nearby bench to let the South Tyrolean sun and antiquity wash over us. While sitting we spotted a castle ruin far away clinging to the mountainside. We later learned it was the crumbling fortress of Hauenstein Castle.

A relic from the 12th century, it was once home to Oswald Von Wolkenstein, a famed medieval minnesinger that followed in the footsteps of the Jim Morrison of medieval times — Walther von der Vogelweide.

For Whom the Bell Tolls

St. Valentin Chapel and Schlern Massif — Legend has it, a bell within the St. Valentin Chapel wards off spells from witches.

The Dolomites are a land littered with ancient legends…some as jolting as the peaks themselves. It came as no surprise then when we discovered the little chapel of St. Valentin bears a bull-size legend of its own.

For thousands of years, Schlern mountain has towered amid tales of witches. The tumultuous thunderstorms raging down from the craggy massif are said to be the spawn of spells cast upon the land. It’s only natural then that long ago — when explanations of the unknown spun readily from superstitions — the locals sought to protect themselves from the terrors of black magic.

Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Thanks to a wanderslusting bull, St. Valentin Chapel came to stand as more than a place of worship, but also as a guardian against the dark. An age-old legend tells of a bull roaming the sleepy hills of the chapel making a fortuitous discovery: a bell buried in the hillside. The bell, now known as the “The Bull of San Valentino” was hung in the spire. The witches of Schlern came to fear the bell as when it tolls it breaks their spell of storms.

Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, we did not encounter any stormy weather during our visit thus did not get to hear the bell toll. But we did come across a cat creeping around the chapel. Clearly, a Schlern witch waiting to wreak havoc on wretched souls.

Cat at St. Valentin Chapel — A Witch of Sciliar or just a cat? Those eyes say it all.

⇒ READ MORE: Hiking Where Witches Once Roamed in South Tyrol

How to Reach St. Valentin Chapel

A variety of trails can lead you to St. Valentin Chapel including one from the town of Castelrotto that takes about an hour to walk. However, we recommend visiting the chapel either before or after spending a day trekking the Alpe di Siusi.

Near a parking lot located in the heart of Seis is a brick-paved trail that winds up the hillside toward the chapel. After a 5-minute walk, you’ll come across another path carved under a row of trees that brings you to the chapel steps. To find the initial trail in Seis, simply follow the signposts.

Once on the trail, you cannot miss the chapel unless you’re entirely consumed by the enormity of the Siusi Alp storming upward from the forested slopes. Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Unfortunately, touring inside the chapel is not possible without making a special appointment. But the outside of St. Valentin with its sweeping views is so breathtaking it does not really matter.

After soaking in the sights, hop back on the paved brick and walk uphill a few more minutes to a farmstead. Here, you can watch South Tyrol’s famous Haflinger horses gracefully graze under a mature grove of apple trees.

A South Tyrolean beauty — the famous Haflinger horse — grazes below an apple tree under the guard of the St. Valentin Chapel.

If you’re visiting the chapel in the afternoon as we did, we recommend grabbing dinner in Seis. The village is easy to walk and you’ll find a number of establishments to pick from.

We ate at the Restaurant Pizzeria Zum Woscht and delighted in pizza accompanied by a bottle Lagrein from Cantina Tramin. Afterward, we suggest visiting the parish church of Sciliar located on the edge of the village center. While not as scenic as St. Valentin Chapel, it possesses a peaceful Alpine cemetery that is well worth strolling through.

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Unearthing Ancient Secrets – Encounters with Ötzi the Iceman

By Kate & Vin 13 Comments

It’s not every day you come face to face with a man who is 5,300 years old. It’s even rarer to get an interview with him. But through the wizardry of a Ouija board, endless billows of incense and ample pours of South Tyrolean wine we were able to go for a hike in the spirit world with Ötzi the Iceman.

If his name doesn’t ring a bell, you may have been entombed in a block of ice the last 28 years. In 1991, a couple of hikers stumbled on a sight only an archaeologist would love to see. Ötzi’s partial corpse surfaced from a melting glacier located at 10,530 feet in the Ötztal Alps of South Tyrol. At the time, it was thought he may have been a soldier from one of the world wars, but it was soon discovered he was a much, much older warrior.

This riveting interview reveals facts on Ötzi the Iceman in a way you will not find anywhere else. We found him to be pleasant, a bit gruff and a character with an Ice Age-size sense of humor.

In the end, we dive into how you can visit Ötzi in Bolzano. If you want to speak with him yourself, we can make that happen too. For a small fee and a couple of cases of Lagrein we will gladly serve as your spiritual medium.

From the Lips of Ötzi

Without further ado, here’s our candid conversation with the coolest man to ever walk Earth:

Throne & Vine: You have been “free” from your icy tomb for almost 30 years now. That must have been liberating after thousands of years.

Ötzi: To be honest, my situation isn’t much different today than it was 10,000+ feet up the mountain. Although I have to say Bolzano is a lovely town. It’s amazing when you think about it, but when they discovered my body, new technologies had to be invented to continue my preservation. I am now kept in a specially designed, ice-freezing cold chamber that mimics the climatic conditions of the glacier where I was found. The temperature of the chamber is kept precisely at a frosty 21.2 °F (-6°C ) with 99% humidity. Two other cold chambers with the same design also exist.

Throne & Vine: Wait a second, why do you need two additional chambers?

Ötzi: One additional chamber is for performing scientific research on my mummified body. The other is located at the Bolzano hospital. In the event, there was some unforeseen power failure at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, I could be rushed to the hospital to be “saved”. Which is kind of ironic since I am already dead.

Throne & Vine: Ah yes, that is a funny way to look at it. Your mummified body is the oldest ever found in Europe. How did it manage to survive for so long?

Ötzi: I like to think I had something to do with it, but to be frank the only reason my body is still around is pure luck. You see before dying I keeled over into a small gully bordered by massive boulders. It was snowing at the time so I was soon buried under a blanket of white. As the centuries turned, the Niederjoch Glacier crept over the gully entombing me in ice. Unbelievably, the boulders protected my body from being pummeled.

The discovery site of Otzi — The discovery site of Ötzi in 1991 (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

Throne & Vine: Scientists have determined you lived somewhere between 3239-3107 B.C. during the late Neolithic period. Are there any trends from back then that are still with us today?

Ötzi: Absolutely! That period gave rise to several notable innovations. For example, the wheel. It was invented in Slovenia, which is not too far from South Tyrol.

Throne & Vine: What about cuisine? Any dishes that are still popular?

Ötzi: Being that we did not have any grocery stores back in the day, we had to hunt and gather everything we ate. That meant a steady diet of red deer, wild goat and porridge made from grains. In fact, the hour before my murder I devoured some ibex meat. Travelers today can still savor this wild game and more when visiting mountain huts in South Tyrol. You’ll love it!

Throne & Vine: Um you said you were murdered? Care to elaborate?

Ötzi: I can’t say much per my legal team until the investigation is officially over, but yes I was slain with an arrow through my back. The arrowhead struck with such a force it broke my left shoulder. I bled out in a matter of minutes.

A few days earlier, I was involved in an altercation. A spirited scrap you could say. One that resulted in a deep cut in my right hand. A couple of hard blows on my noggin and a fracture to my left eye socket. If I had to guess, the lethal arrow came from the bow of that fella. That’s just speculation of course.

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: What kind of tools and weapons did you have to defend yourself against enemies and the elements?

Ötzi: Well I was always good with my fists, but you’d have to be a fool to trek through the Alps then without a survival kit. On my belt, I kept a flint stone dagger and the oldest medicine kit ever found.

Throne & Vine: You had a medicine kit?

Ötzi: That’s right. You see at the time of my death I was battling several ailments. Not a surprise really given I was in my mid-forties, which was quite old at the time.

One of the more annoying ailments I suffered was intestinal parasites. Nasty little buggers known as whipworms. I kept a couple of pieces of birch fungus threaded through strips of hide. Our ancestors knew this fungus was quite toxic to the whipworms so I ingested it as necessary.

Otzi X-Ray Display — The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology includes a touchscreen display that visually presents fascinating facts on Ötzi.

Throne & Vine: What else did you bring on your journey?

Ötzi: My most prized possession was my copper-bladed axe. Until it was found next to my corpse, no one believed we had developed the skills yet to forge such a beauty. It’s 99% pure copper. A true masterpiece in metalwork and the only one of its kind left in the world.

The copper came from hundreds of miles away in a region called Tuscany. The blade was cast in a mold and hammered into cutting shape. I then fixed it to a wooden shaft, carved from a yew tree, using leather straps and tar to hold it in place. It was still intact when discovered.

The copper used the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions. — The copper blade used in the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions.

Since copper axes were rare and valuable in my time, only held by men of high status, it’s puzzling as to why my murderer didn’t snatch it after felling me. Seems like a clue the investigators should consider.

I also carried with me a longbow, arrows and a quiver. The bow was crafted from a yew tree as well. She was a work in progress though. Was really hoping to her have done before trekking up Similaun mountain. Perhaps you’d be talking with a different “Iceman” today if that was the case. Anywho, the bow was taller than me to allow for shots up to 150 feet away. I’m 5′ 2″ tall and the bow ran 5’9″. My quiver held 14 arrows in total, but only two were finished.

The quiver was made from the hide of a roe deer and the arrows from viburnum wood. Like my dagger, the arrowheads were made of flint. Speaking of my dagger, you can actually purchase a killer replica of it. The Ötzi knife makes a great gift for the hunter or history lover in your life. Sorry for the shameless plug.

By the way, among the most important items I carried was fire.

Throne & Vine: How does one carry fire? Assume you didn’t have matches.

Ötzi: No matches. I had something better. I made a round container by rolling the bark of a birch tree. Inside, I kept charcoal embers wrapped in maple leaves from my last fire. The leaves kept the embers alive so to speak. Whenever I needed a fire to stay warm or to cook meat all I had to do was fan the embers. In a matter of seconds, I had a flame.

Throne & Vine: The weather in the Alps can be unforgiving. How else did you stay warm? What did you wear for clothing?

Ötzi: Well I was quite a fashionable man back in the day. What you might consider a “lumbersexual” today. The difference being I actually know how to use an axe. My attire came from multiple animals. This prevented me from getting cold and wet.

On my head, I sported a bearskin cap that I won in an arm wrestling match. My coat ran down to my knees and consisted of sheep and goat hides stitched together with animal tendons.

Otzi bearskin hat — The bearskin cap found near the body of Ötzi. It included chin straps to secure it against high mountain winds (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

My legs were also covered in sheep and goat hides supported by a calfskin belt. Instead of underwear, I wore a loincloth made from sheep hide and kept together by my belt.

Throne & Vine: Did you have any kind of special footwear?

Ötzi: I certainly did. I wore primitive shoes consisting of deer hide stitched to the outside of netting made from lime tree bast. I stuffed grass under the netting for warmth. When my feet got wet, I just replaced the grass. The sole of my feet walked on the soft fur of the deer hide. I secured the shoes to each foot using string.

Throne & Vine: We heard you also sport several tattoos. Is there a story behind them?

Ötzi: Yeah my body is riddled with tattoos. I lost count, but supposedly scientists found 61 on my corpse. These had nothing to do with looking cool or tough. My bearskin cap does that on its own. My tattoos were for therapeutic purposes. Many of them are located near my joints such as my wrist and ankles. Back then we treated tattooing as an early form of acupuncture.

A scientist examining Otzi. — A scientist examining the body of Ötzi (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology/EURAC/Samadelli/Staschitz).

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: A major motion picture was recently released re-imagining your life and death. What are your thoughts on it?

Ötzi: Loved it! The movie “Iceman” is a spectacle all should see. Sure Hollywood takes some liberties with my story, but the settings and costumes are spot on when it comes to showing what life was like 5,300 years ago. My only gripe is that Brad Pitt should have played me. We share the same tattoos after all.

Throne & Vine: What is it like to be one of the greatest scientific discoveries of all time?

Ötzi: I’d prefer to have never been found. When glaciers melt, the world changes.

Otzi & Ibex — Weapons found near Ötzi indicate he was an avid hunter. His last meal was ibex. Consumed just hours before his death.

Throne & Vine: Point taken. We’ve heard you called Ötzi the Iceman, Frozen Fritz and even Similaun Man. Do you have a favorite?

Ötzi: Any of those are fine. Doubt anyone could pronounce my real name. And I don’t have a clue how to spell it.

Throne & Vine: What else do you want people to know about you?

Ötzi: I love getting visitors. Everyone visiting South Tyrol needs to come by the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano. My body and belongings are there for all to see, as well as exhibits detailing more about my life, death and discovery. You can stand eye-to-eye with me thanks to an incredibly detailed 3D model of what I looked like thousands of years ago. The museum also covers how modern science has unearthed all of my secrets so far. But I promise I still hold more (gives a good belly laugh).

Throne & Vine: We can’t agree more. All should take the time to see the museum. Do you have any final words for our readers?

Ötzi: Yeah, stay frosty…like me.

How to Visit Ötzi the Iceman

Seeing Ötzi at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology should be a part of your day when visiting Bolzano. More than 5 million people from all over the world have walked through the museum since its opening in 1998.

The museum is world class immersing you into the world of Ötzi through novel displays and multimedia exhibits. Plan on 1-2 hours to walk through the museum.

When you reach the window to peer into Ötzi, the sight of his actual mummified body is exhilarating and humbling at the same time. We came away with a new perspective on the history of mankind.

See Ötzi up close at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano.

The displays include English descriptions so you will not have to muscle through deciphering German or Italian phrases if that is a concern. The museum also houses other fascinating findings revealing a complete archaeological history of South Tyrol.

Like all of Bolzano’s stunning sights, it’s easy to reach the museum on foot. It is near the historic heart of Bolzano off Museumstraße street just past the famous Piazza delle Erbe — a centuries-old outdoor marketplace full of fresh goodness.

We highly recommend a guided tour as you will undoubtedly have questions about Ötzi that arise as you go through the museum. To ensure one is available, you will need to make a tour reservation request in advance.

If you decide not to participate in a guided tour, we still recommend purchasing your tickets online before visiting the museum.

Another adventure you may want to consider while in South Tyrol is hiking to the glacier where Ötzi was discovered.

PIN TO SAVE ÖTZI TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD!

We like to give special thanks to Selita Corradini for leading us on an exceptional tour of the Ötzi exhibit. Her enthusiasm for Ötzi is contagious!

A Swirl with Antiquity – Visiting the Abbey of Novacella

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only one can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world. Nestled just to the north of South Tyrol’s oldest town lies the Abbey of Novacella (also known as “Abbazia di Novacella” in Italian and “Kloster Neustift” in German).

This cultural treasure near Brixen was founded in 1142 — more than 875 years ago. It is among the most stunning historic destinations in South Tyrol. A symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid rolling vineyards and forested slopes.

Anyone admiring the Abbey of Novacella, from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The monastery boasts a labyrinth of structures, courtyards and walls showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo character from various epochs.

The history of Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Wandering the Vines of Novacella

We arrived at the Abbey of Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

Neustift Monastery Castle — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbey of Novacella.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks.

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery.

We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Abbey of Novacella Winery Vineyards — The vineyards of the Abbey of Novacella tumble down slopes to the foot of the monastery. Ancient dry stone walls ease the steepness and act like a furnace for the vines during the cool evenings.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of the Abbey of Novacella (officially labeled as “Abbazia di Novacella” in your wine shop) are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle “it’s better to have less but good”.

Elias Holzer and Kate discussing Novacella wines — Novacella sommelier, Elias Holzer, explaining the winemaking principles of the Abbey of Novacella (also commonly known as Neustift Monastery). Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast from the historic builings.

Following this tenet has guided Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. Novacella began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Admiring the historic Abbey of Novacella garden (also known as Neustift Monastery) — Admiring the natural splendor of the Abbey of Novacella garden.

We wandered on until overlooking the historical gardens of Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess gingko trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

Becoming One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land bearing virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Novacella expanded their operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

The winery of Abbazia di Novacella lies beneath our feet. — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us.

According to Elias, Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” Novacella even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water to precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

Abbazia di Novacella Wine Production — Elias shares how Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touch screen interface, Novacella sets the temperature of its stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

A Stroll Through the Ages

We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbey of Novacella Church Ceiling — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbey of Novacella church is among the finest in South Tyrol.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Striking Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

Towards the end of World War II all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Abbey of Novacella Wunderbrunnen — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean breads.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born from the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an every-day wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Elias promised that to taste it once, is to remember it forever. He was absolutely right.

Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to the Abbey of Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

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A Halo of Ruin – Exploring the Castles of Eppan

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

Three castles, one hike? Every castle hunter should be so lucky. That was our first thought after discovering a halo of castles forming a stunning hike called “Three Castles Walk” in Eppan / Appiano, South Tyrol.

We had just arrived at Weingut Donà for a multi-day romantic adventure along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. The Hocheppan Castle perched high above our villa apartment caught our eye immediately. How could it not? It loomed from a rocky ledge along a sheer mountain wall. From where we stood far below, this 12th-century stronghold looked to be a marvel of the most medieval kind.

Over the Hills and Far Away

We considered setting out on the Three Castles Walk from Weingut Donà, but opted to drive up the mountain a bit to a nearby village called Missiano. Starting from here gave us the best chance of visiting all three castles. Plus, from the parking lot, we could follow well-marked signs pointing the way up to our first castle stop.

On a steep hill above the parking lot sat an enticing looking church. We made a mental note to visit it if we had time after consuming the three castles. South Tyrol can be joyfully exhausting for curious souls like us. It teems with such intriguing sights making it a land where one could explore endlessly.

A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

We began the Three Castles Walk along a paved road, but were soon enveloped by vineyards as we ascended the foothills of Mondelo mountain range. Hocheppan Castle teased us from afar. But each step offered us an ever-widening view of the valley below.

Jagged peaks of the Dolomites soared from the horizon beyond Bolzano. The infamous Witches Mountain (Sciliar / Schlern) cut into the sky like a gravestone just above the molten gold of leaves still clinging to the vines. It was a sight of pure South Tyrolean splendor.

All Along the Watchtower

Eventually, the vineyards became woodland and we found ourselves in a shroud of trees. The path steepened in the forest, but we came across several benches to catch our breath. We were about to turn a final corner to Hocheppan Castle when we happened to glance behind us. A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

Hocheppan Castle Chalk Tower — The 12th-century watchtower of Hocheppan Castle.

Veering off the main path, we hopped through the woods until finding another trail to the tower. Within 5 minutes we were at the foot of a sign reading “Kreideturm” (Chalk Tower). We darted up to the hill crest where the tower stood. Its appearance was rather austere. The tower looked like a poor man’s skyscraper. We discovered it was erected in the late 12th century as a watchtower for Hocheppan Castle. The king’s guard would ignite a chalk fire at the top of the tower to signal incoming danger.

We were not able to find a way into the tower so we moved on after thoroughly exploring the area. Walking through the forest back to the castle path, we came across a ghostly white face staring at us between the trees. We stood frozen. The face moved. Two horns flashed. Then the figure turned revealing a body much like a deer except it wasn’t. We watched with fascination as two chamois lightly floated over the forest floor seemingly without a care.

Chamois in the woods — Ghosts in the forest. Encounters with chamois while hiking to Hocheppan. Can you spot the second one?

At the Gate of Hocheppan

Twenty minutes later we finally came to the crumbling walls of Hocheppan Castle. Below us was a sweeping view that cemented why this fortress was built at this height. The castle itself is a remarkable ruin. Both a romantic and fierce sight at the same time. A tall bergfried looms from the castle’s heart, a medieval architectural relic that is rare in the Alps.

Once the mightiest stronghold in South Tyrol, Hocheppan came to crown the mountain around the year 1130. It sits at more than 2,000 feet and was the ancestral seat of the Counts of Eppan — sworn enemies to the Counts of Tyrol to the north. Given the name of the region you can guess who ultimately won.

Since the castle was closed for the season we were not able to wander whatever was left of its once kingly halls. Nor were we able to admire its famous chapel, which contains priceless ancient frescoes that paint a vivid picture of life during the Middle Ages.

Even though abandoned for more than 500 years, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been.

As we were alone at the castle, we sat silently on a bench admiring its form against the autumn sky. But we were not as alone as we thought. A cat crept up to our feet. She purred loudly nuzzling against our legs…clearly longing to be held. Who were we to argue? After coddling the cuddly furball, we set her free. She led us to the other side of the castle. No doubt its throne belonged to her as she was not in any way lost.

Castle Hocheppan / Appiano — Upon our arrival at Hocheppan Castle we were greeted warmly by the queen.

Hocheppan Castle Cat — As all castle visits must end, we bid farewell to the queen per the royal custom of South Tyrol.

To Boymont & Beyond

A sign on the path pointed us toward the second castle on our hike: Boymont. The trail took us down on a rocky ravine that we feared meant a steep climb at some point. Sure enough. Stairs built along the sheer cliff edge scaled the other side of the ravine. We sweated our way up the steps. The trail then snaked up a bit further before dropping us off at the door of Boymont Castle.

Boymont Castle is another ruin from centuries past. Its stone facade is quite different from Hocheppan. Boymont Castle wears a more reddish hue rather than gray and its decorative windows, with their arches and stone pillars, speak to an early Gothic style.

The Counts of Eppan built Boymont Castle in the 13th century. But they were not the first to reside on this castle hill. Archaeologists have found remnants from prehistoric times.

Boymont was not of military importance — serving as a luxurious residential manor instead. This is quite evident by its uncommon medieval form. Even though abandoned for more than 500 years after an arsonist set fire, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been. We peeked at the castle’s courtyard through an iron gate. It was magnificent. Definitely a place we will be returning to enjoy a South Tyrolean gem at its wine tavern.

Boymont Castle Windows — Admiring the early Gothic style windows of Boymont Castle.

We found the castle’s windows particularly fascinating. Peering through them long ago must have been exhilarating. Despite the fortress being in ruin, it was easy to picture its storybook past.

The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

After exploring all four corners of Boymont, we soaked in the panorama from the mountain’s edge. Steeples and tiled roofs colored the valley floor between sweeping swaths of vineyards and orchards. The sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. The third castle on the walk tempted us from some far off crag, but we saved conquering Castel Korb for another day. Being caught in the dark in a land haunted by legends was not how either one of us sought to spend the night. Besides we knew there was a bottle of wine waiting for us at Weingut Donà.

Once back at the villa apartment, we cleaned up and enjoyed a couple of glasses of Vernatsch before venturing to Bolzano for a feast at The Laurin Restaurant. Dining at a venue named after a royal legend seemed like the only appropriate way to end a day among regal ruins.

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

The best time to embark on the Three Castles Walk is obviously when the castles are open. However, we found having the trails and ruins to ourselves during the off-season especially memorable. Surprisingly, we lingered longer around each castle longer than we may if they had been open. The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

If you are visiting South Tyrol during summer and much of spring or fall you will be able to experience everything Hocheppan Castle and Boymont Castle offer. Hocheppan is open from early April to early November. It can be visited daily from 10 am to 6 pm excluding Wednesdays. Tours are available in English.

Boymont Castle is typically open from late March to early November. Hours are from 11 am to 5 pm every day except when shuttered on Mondays.

Both castles serve traditional South Tyrolean food and drink if you wish to sip and eat among the same stones as knights and kings.