South Tyrol Historic Sights

Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History

The first time your eyes lock on the Sabiona Monastery set atop a jigsaw of crags and spurs high above the artists’ village of Chiusa, your fate is sealed. Embarking on a lofty adventure to the “Holy Mountain of South Tyrol” becomes a must.

The Sabiona Monastery (also known as Säben Abbey) is impossible to miss while cruising over the Brenner Pass between Brixen and Bolzano. Like so many sights along the ancient Roman passage, it looms with undeniable intrigue.

So much so that when we first spotted the historic landmark from the roadway it practically steered us to the next available exit. Letting this grand medieval mystery teasing the heavens remain unknown to us was not an option.

We found a public parking lot conveniently located on the edge of the town — almost directly underneath the steep rock face rising to the foot of the monastery. Gazing up we were at a loss on how to reach the site.

Fortunately, the tourist information center in Chiusa (also known as Klausen) was not far into town. A staff member kindly revealed the mountain top mystery to us and now we get to reveal it to you.

About the Sabiona Monastery

According to legend, Saint Cassian of Imola founded the monastery around the year 350 A. D. However, the rocky outcropping upon which it sits was historically significant even centuries before then.

Archaeological studies show evidence of dwellings on the “Acropolis of Tyrol” dating back to the age of Ötzi the Iceman. Ancient Romans also used the mountain likely as a military outpost. The rocky perch overlooking the narrowest point of Brenner Pass would have allowed Augustus, Caesar and the like to swiftly close southern Europe from northern threats.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy.

Findings from excavations over the years indicate houses of Christian worship were present by the 5th century. A century later the Roman Catholic Church installed a bishop on Sabiona resulting in the spread of Christianity throughout the region. For this reason, faithful South Tyroleans consider it their “Holy Mountain”.

Sabiona Monastery in South Tyrol — For centuries Sabiona Monastery has been a pilgramage for the faithful.

By the 1400s, additional churches and fortifications were built on the mountain creating much of the Gothic castle-like appearance of the monastery that is visible today. We were surprised to discover that since the late 1600s, it has been home to nuns under the Order of St. Benedict.

Even though the large parts of the monastery are not accessible to tourists due to Benedictine rules (nuns are not allowed to interact with guests), visitors can still trek to see the historic churches of the monastery including the Church of the Holy Cross, whose founding was more than 1,400 years ago.

How to Reach the Sabiona Monastery

The steep staircase to Sabiona begins on the western edge of Chiusa. This is a blessing. You will likely arrive in the town on the eastern end meaning you get to experience the fairy tale setting of Chiusa.

The town is tucked tightly between the mountainside and the Isarco River, which may at first seem a bit of an odd location for a thriving community. But when viewed through a historical lens it makes perfect sense. In the Middle Ages and before, Chiusa would have been an ideal defensive position not to mention a treasure trove of coin collecting as any travelers wishing to pass through had to pay a toll.

As the “City of Artists”, Chiusa offers much more to discover beyond the Sabiona Monastery.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy. The very definition of quaint and cozy kissed with a vibrant zest. The colorful pastels gracing many of the medieval facades will make you think you wandered onto a canvas.

Reaching the Sabiona stairs carries you directly through Chiusa’s old-world heart over a narrow street known as Via Città Alta. It is dotted by numerous shops, cafes and taverns prime for discovering the artisanal talents of local South Tyroleans.

The town prides itself as the “City of Artists” with an artful legacy that includes visits by greats such as Albrecht Dürer — one of the most celebrated painters of the Renaissance. In fact, he was so enamored by Chiusa he used the village as the backdrop for his famous copper-plate engraving of the Greek goddess Nemesis in 1502.

Climb the Stairway to Heaven

By the following signs for Sabiona, you will find the staircase on a sleepy side alley to the right of the main street. Along this stretch, you will encounter a fascinating looking building known as the Mineralienecke (Mineral Store).

It appears as if from a Game of Thrones set. The building’s outer wall is clad with an assortment of medieval tools making it an iconic place to snap a photo.

Mineralienecke in Chiusa — Choose your weapon? The Mineralienecke building is a one-of-kind curisoity in Chiusa.

We could not figure out how to visit the inside, but perhaps just as well. If the outside is any indication of what lies within, poor souls who enter may stumble upon a torture chamber.

Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

The stairs begin around the corner under a large crucifix. Upon starting the climb, pause for a moment to consider the hallowed ground you are walking on. The stone beneath your feet has led pilgrims to Sabiona for centuries. The hike you are now embarking on is one of the oldest pilgrimages in Europe.

The stairs offer a steep ascent that shortly leads you past Branzoll Castle, a privately owned fortress towering above vineyards. The path then branches off allowing you to choose either the Sabiona Promenade — a rugged walk through the mountain’s forested slopes — or a gentler path called Via Cruxis that is decorated with the Stations of the Cross.

We chose to take the hiking trail up and return to Chiusa along the historic route. This option does make your Sabiona adventure a bit longer and certainly more sweat-inducing.

From here, the hike up takes around 30 minutes and rewards you with multiple points to enjoy sweeping views of Chiusa and the Isarco Valley. The trail is not dangerous, but if you are not accustomed to hiking we recommend taking the Via Cruxis path up and down.

Experience Vivid Stillness

The first sight to visit once arriving at the sprawling monastery grounds is its oldest structure — the Church of the Holy Cross. It sits on the highest point of the mountain.

The origins of the church date back to the 500s when it was the cathedral for Bishop Ingenuinus who lies in eternal rest inside.

Walking into the Church of the Holy Cross is like traversing the tides of time.

Bishop Ingenuinus or “Little Kneeling One” as his name suggests, was likely bishop of Sabiona from 577 until his death in 605. He is viewed as a patron saint of mountain people.

The outside of the church is captivating with a 40 foot painted cross gracing its outer apse. But it is the inside that rivets the imagination — especially if you can visit when sunlight is pouring through the windows.

In the 17th century, an unnamed artist painted striking frescoes throughout the interior. Many of these vivid biblical scenes evoke the feeling of being within a grand marbled hall.

The church’s elaborate crucifix from the 15th century is a wonder to look upon.

In addition to the fantastical paintings, the church exhibits the carvings of Leonhard von Brixen — a sculptor and painter from the 15th century. His moving crucifix high in the apse is a historic gem of religious realism.

After absorbing the treasures of the church, we suggest sliding into a pew to allow the inspiring stillness of this space wash over you. Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

Wander the Mountain Top

Beyond visiting the Church of the Holy Cross, you can also walk around the complex admiring the age-old courtyard and tower, another small chapel, as well as other beautiful works of religious art set about the grounds.

If you want to take in more splendid panoramas while atop the mountain, hop on a trail that darts to the east of the monastery. You will be able to peer deep into the horizon like a Roman soldier scanning for a sign of the Gauls and Goths.

Once you have thoroughly worked up a thirst and appetite from all of the exploring and soulful reflection, take the Via Cruxis route back down to Chiusa. Besides the fact you are now going downhill, you will find this path easier as it is in better shape and a gentler grade.

The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

In addition to the Stations of the Cross, an impressive castled wall will be your companion much of the way. It encircles the monastery grounds until the hill steepens into a terraced vineyard right beneath the octagonal church known as Liebfrauenkirche.

Peace among the vines. The Liebfrauenkirche church stands over row upon row of grapevines that tumble down the mountainside.

The Liebfrauenkirche church was added to the Sabiona Monastery in the 1650s. It is also open for visiting. Inside, you can study Baroque artwork of the Virgin Mary from several notable artists. While we did not have an opportunity to see it, a baptismal fountain dating to the 5th century is inside as well.

Explore the Charms of Chiusa

Once back in town we suggest spending the remainder of your day exploring Chiusa. If you’re not in the mood for a bite to eat yet, pay a visit to the boutiques you passed along the Via Città Alta. From browsing the wood carvings of Val Gardena to the paintings of local artists and more, you will undoubtedly discover a keepsake or gift for a loved one.

A Woodcarver in Chiusa — If you time your visit right to a shop in Chiusa, you may catch an artist in the midst of crafting their latest vision.

Additional sights you will find of interest is the Chiesa di Sant’Andrea near the town center. This picturesque church by the river was first mentioned in 1208.

After your visit, cross the nearby bridge and meander along the riverfront. The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

Chiusa River Promenade — Romance ripples along the rivery shores of Chuisa.

For a deeper dive into the world of art, consider visiting the Museum of Chiusa. It holds the Treasure of Loreto, a priceless collection of religious objects and paintings from Spanish and Italian artists of the 16th and 17th century.

To appease your hunger and thirst immediately after visiting the monastery, we recommend venturing to Gassl Bräu. This craft brewery and tavern is situated just steps away from the staircase to Sabiona.

Gassl Bräu offers an idyllic indoor or outdoor dining setting and delicious fare that will suit the staunchest Tyrolean and the pickiest Italian. If you’re a beer enthusiast, be sure to enjoy a pint or two of Gassl Bräu’s beer, but also wander into the brewery. It is quite possibly the only one in the world with a trout stream running beneath the floor.

When to Visit the Sabiona Monastery

No matter the time of year you visit South Tyrol you can add a hike to the Sabiona Monastery to your trip plans. The site is open all year. If you go in the winter months, consider bringing a set of hiking poles and obviously the appropriate footwear.

The churches are open for visitation from 8 AM to 5 PM. It’s worth noting that if a door is locked it is likely Sabiona’s nuns are cleaning the interior. Simply wander to a different church and return later to see if it is unlocked.

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How to visit the Sabiona Monastery in Chiusa, Italy

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World’s Oldest Vine

By Kate & Vin 11 Comments

It’s not every day you meet a royal lady several hundred years old. But one such endearing elder thrives far below a castle in the village of Prissiano in South Tyrol.

Deep in the foothills bounding between Merano and Bolzano lies one of the world’s greatest living treasures: the Versoaln vine of Castel Katzenzungen. This rare natural gem is likely the oldest and largest grapevine in the world.

Affectionately known as the “Old Lady” by the caretaker and owner of the castle, Veronika Egger Pobitzer, the vine according to viticulturists is 350+ years-old. The only known grapevine in the world of similar age is found in nearby Slovenia.

However, legend speaks of the Versoaln grapevine being even much older. It is said the Count of Schlandersperg planted the vine beneath his castle in 1379 — making her more than 600 years old. Whatever is the truth, the Old Lady is a wonder to behold when visiting South Tyrol.

Meeting the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen

The Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen enthrones herself almost 200 feet below the earth where her roots enjoy the spoils of the soil all to themselves. She eventually surfaces along an old stone wall at the foot of the castle’s hill.

From there, the Old Lady’s gnarled trunk curls into a wide smile as two main branches fan out a river of foliage. We found her wrinkled grin far more enchanting than any ever unfurled by the stroke of an artist’s brush.

But as pretty as her smile is, it’s the Old Lady’s verdant veil that steals your breath. Her leafy canopy shrouds the hillside — covering nearly 3,800 sq. ft. Atop the castle’s stone arch bridge, it appears as a velvety cloak kissed with green and gold. When the sun lances her leaves she almost shimmers in the light.

Looking down on her one can’t help but be in awe of her tenacious spirit. The Old Lady has braved centuries of war, famine and fire to still dazzle the eyes today.

The Versoaln vine displays a grand canopy below Castel Katzenzungen.

She rests her branches on a sprawling chestnut pergola several feet above the ground. When we first set foot under her canopy it was like walking into a hidden world.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct.

The Old Lady enveloped us in a labyrinth of lushness. Her leaf-riddled arms seemed to pull us down the hill. Clearly, she is a curious soul. Wanting to meet all who enter her realm face to face.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct. Its name pre-dates Ancient Rome and likely refers to how the canopy of vines was secured to trellises by rope. Fortunately, viticulturists from South Tyrol have been able to birth new vines from the Old Lady ensuring the variety’s future.

Vesoaln produces compact clusters of translucent medium-sized grapes. The Old Lady is still quite fruitful yielding enough grapes each year to produce 300-500 bottles of wine.

Veronika noted the castle estate does not actually produce the wine or care for the vine. The grapes are vinified at the Laimburg Research Center — a South Tyrolean agriculture institute located near the wine village of Tramin.

Versoaln vine — A beauty for the ages from above and below, the Old Lady still produces up to 900 lbs of grapes each year.

Tending to the health of the Old Lady is handled by the botanical experts of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff in Merano. In addition to protecting the vine, the Gardens’ promote her as a culturally significant part of South Tyrol’s 3,000-year-old winegrowing heritage.

Despite their efforts to safeguard the vine, how long the Old Lady will be with us is not known. Unfortunately, she has been afflicted with a slow-moving wood disease called Esca, which deprives her of water. To combat this menace, portions of the vine must be removed where Esca appears each year.

Touring Castel Katzenzungen

After giving our best wishes to the Old Lady and bidding her farewell, Veronika led us across the stone arch bridge for a tour of Castel Katzenzungen. This box-shaped castle is unlike any other we have encountered in South Tyrol.

First mentioned in 1244, the castle has been held by several noble families in South Tyrol over the centuries. While its name amusingly translates to “cat’s tongue”, the name actually arises from the original owner: Henricus de Cazenzunge.

From Sir Cazenzunge, the castle passed to the Lords of Fink and the Lords of Schlandersberg, as well as the Counts of Thun and Fuchs. In 1548, Castel Katzenzungen came into the hands of Lords of Breisach, who transformed it into its current Renaissance style.

Inside, Veronika pointed out architectural clues on the original stone staircase hinting a tower may have graced the castle at one point in time. She shared that for nearly 200 years Castel Katzenzungen was among the most prestigious residences in South Tyrol thanks to the wealth of the Breisach family. When their rule ended, the castle fell into decay.

The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the world's oldest grapevine.

It remained largely in ruin until 1978 when Veronika’s father-in-law, Josef Pobitzer, purchased the castle. Josef then passed the castle to his son, Ernst, who beautifully restored Castel Katzenzungen to its original character and former glory.

Today, the Pobitzer family operates the castle as a one-of-a-kind wedding and corporate event venue. Between its three floors, Castel Katzenzungen can host anywhere from a small group of 10 up to 450 guests.

Medieval weaponry adorns the great halls of the castle.

Veronika led us through each floor highlighting fascinating historic details of the castle. The ground floor now holds lavish banquet rooms and a wine bar, but during medieval times it was actually the castle’s stable. Why? Residents of the castle kept livestock at the lowest level so the animals’ body heat would assist warming the upper floors.

The first floor holds a large hall for live music and dancing. The hall’s stone floor is only around 20 years old, but masterfully resembles the original including its dark red color, which long ago was dyed red with animal blood.

Castel Katzenzungen Stube — Wood paneling from the 16th century lines the walls and ceilings of the castle’s lounge rooms.

Additional rooms on the first floor include elegant stubes wrapped in warm wood panels from the 16th century. This rustic feature was almost lost to history. Poor farmers staying in the castle during its period of decay covered the paneling to make the rooms smaller thus easier to heat. The gorgeous woodwork was revealed during the castle’s restoration.

Our favorite room of the castle was the medieval kitchen. Its walls run black —forever scarred by woodfires lit over the centuries to smoke speck. Dining in the kitchen under candlelight would undoubtedly transport you to another time.

Longing for enchantment? It is inescapable in the kitchen of Castel Katzenzungen.

The second floor features additional banquet rooms for larger gatherings. In the future, the Pobitzer family plans to use part of the floor to also showcase unique artwork, rocks, gemstones, minerals and a collection of historic arms from Josef Pobitzer.

Perhaps the most peculiar part of the second floor is the medieval bathrooms. Stone seats jut out from the exterior castle wall with an opening that allowed residents to relieve themselves high above the grounds. These of course were located on the sides of the castle — not above the front gate. Whether an unlucky peasant ever received these “gifts” from the heavens above we will never know.

Tasting One of the World’s Rarest Wines

We ended our visit to Castel Katzenzungen in the castle’s wine bar with a tasting of the Versoaln wine. The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the Old Lady.

Veronika kindly poured us each a glass and touched on the special attributes of Versoaln. In the glass, the wine sparkled with a yellowish-green hue and possessed subtle notes of green apple and exotic fruits on the nose.

In the mouth, it was surprisingly delicious. A summertime pleaser. The Versoaln wine was light and fruity with a fun touch of tart on the finish. We had to bring a bottle of the Old Lady home with us. Her story is too remarkable not to share.

If you want to sweeten your lips with the Old Lady yourself, the only way to do so is by visiting Castel Katzenzungen. Due to the small production volume of the wine, bottles are only sold at the wine bar.

So how much is a bottle of one of the rarest wines in the world? Surprisingly affordable. For only € 35 you can regale the tale and flavor of the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen with your family and friends.

How to Visit the Old Lady & Castel Katzenzungen

If you are a castle or wine lover, you will want to add Castel Katzenzungen and Prissiano to your South Tyrol trip plans. In fact, Prissiano is known as the “village of castles” since it is the historic home to an abundance of regal residences.

Throughout the year, Castel Katzenzungen hosts various cultural and culinary events in support of the local community. If you cannot visit during an event, a castle tour and organized tasting can be arranged for 10 or more.

An annual autumn event we have our heart set on attending someday is a torchlight hike between three castles of Prissiano which includes Castel Katzenzungen. This festive outing is a part of the Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival).

How about a wedding in a chapel followed by a celebration at a castle? The historic St. Martin Church sits directly across from Castel Katzenzungen.

Of course, an even better option for you to consider is hosting a smashing gala at Castel Katzenzungen. What could be more romantic than a wedding or anniversary party at a castle amid the mountains?! If you do book such a celebration, we kindly request an invite!

To explore scheduling a visit or more at Castel Katzenzungen, connect with Veronika via the castle’s official website.

The nearby town of Lana makes a convenient base for exploring the region. You can be in Prissiano in a matter of minutes by car or bus or you can wander from sight to sight along the numerous hiking trails crisscrossing the hills and valleys. See our guide to visiting and staying in Lana for more information.

We would like to give special thanks to Veronika for taking time out of her busy day to introduce us to the wonders of the Old Lady and Castel Katzenzungen!

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Castel Katzenzungen: Home to the World's Oldest Grapevine

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of the Wine Road

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Tramin, Italy is a rare gem where its chill vibe and festive spirit capture your heart all at once. Here are our tips for visiting this timeless village.

It’s easy to visit South Tyrol and give all of your attention to the stony giants crowding the horizons. But strolling the cobbled village streets rivering its mountainsides can do as much to instill a sense of wonder as traversing any remote rocky trail.

Especially those along South Tyrol’s Wine Road. Exploring these idyllic medieval hamlets rooted in the vine-riddled hills is like plugging into charging stations for the soul.

In this post, we uncover the romantic charms of Tramin. You’ll discover how to indulge in the village’s historic sights and jubilant traditions as well as visit the esteemed J. Hofstätter Wine Estate.

Getting to Tramin

Tramin (also known as Termeno) lies in the heart of the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Südtiroler Weinstrasse) just beyond the bright blue shimmer of Lake Caldaro. Whether coming from Bolzano to the north or Trento to the south, you can be in the village in less than 40 minutes.

As you approach, its old-world contours dawn beneath the sandy-hues of the Mendola mountain ridgeline. Soon, Tramin’s towering parish church steeple welcomes you like a signpost noting: “Tranquility this Way ⇒”. Its Gothic character lines are unmistakable amid the lush Mediterranean foothills.

Once you arrive in the village, we recommend parking near the center to set out on foot. A free lot is located off Via Mindelheim, which places you right next to the official Tramin tourist office. It pays to stop in to pick up a map as well as discover any special markets and events taking place that may be of interest during your time in South Tyrol.

Touring the Sun-Graced Treasures of Tramin

Tramin has roots thousands of years deep. Archaeological findings indicate settlements in the area as early as the time of Ötzi the Iceman.

Visiting Tramin, Italy — A veritable Eden of Italy, Tramin basks in more than 300 days of sunshine each year.

However, Tramin as a village did not come to be until the Middle Ages. This medieval history is inescapable. Narrow alleys, stone archways and windows bedecked in flowers seem to greet you at every turn — making its historic roads enchanting to wander all on their own.

But the village also holds three religious treasures not to miss. These sites are priceless in their historical significance to South Tyrol.

Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta

The Parish Church of Tramin boasts the tallest Gothic tower in South Tyrol.

Not far from the heart of Tramin is the magnificent Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta. Founded in 850 AD, the church transports you to another time with intricate craftsmanship that has long since been discarded in our hurried age.

The addition of its iconic Gothic stone steeple occurred in 1492. At a height of 282 feet, it is the tallest tower of its kind in South Tyrol.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore.

Inside, you can admire Gothic frescoes depicting the martyrdom of the church’s patron saints as well as ornate altarpieces dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Joseph, St. Jacob and St. Sebastion.

The Church of St. Jakob

A bit further up the mountainside on a hilltop called Kastelaz resides another cherished historic haunt of Tramin: the quaint Church of St. Jakob. It possesses some of the most impressive and unique medieval artwork in South Tyrol.

The church’s Romanesque frescoes from the 1200s are remarkably well preserved and among the oldest in Germanic Europe. The vivid depictions are utterly fantastical in form.

St. Jakob Church in Tramin, Italy — Inconspicuous from the outside, the Church of St. Jakob is a medieval marvel seated on a supposed sacred site of Ancient Rome.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore. In addition, biblical characters such as the twelve apostles, Cain and Abel and a large Gothic fresco of fallen Goliath meeting his end at the hands of diminutive David grace the stone. There is simply no other church like it.

Romanesque frescoes of St. Jakob Church on Kastelaz hill — The centuries-old frescoes of St. Jakob are among the most bizarre you will ever encounter.

Outside the church, be sure to soak in the sweeping views of Tramin and Lake Caldaro. From up here, it’s easy to see why the Ancient Romans also chose this lofty location as a place of worship. According to legend, a temple to the goddess Isis once stood where the church is today.

The St. Valentin Church and Cemetery

On the southern end of Tramin directly off the South Tyrolean Wine Road stands the St. Valentin Church and cemetery. First documented in 1276, this small church requires obtaining keys from the tourist office to enter. However, if you cannot obtain them for whatever reason you can peer through windows to see its interior.

Adorning its walls are colorful frescoes in Venetian style from the late 1300s and early 1400s. Among them are a captivating Passion of the Christ and the retelling of the Legend of St. Ursula, the patron saint of educating young girls. She was sadly murdered with an arrow in 383 AD.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps.

Even if you do not tour the church, walking the St. Valentin cemetery rewards with stunning sights unfurled between stately cypress trees and sun-drenched palms.

St. Valentin Church Cemetery — The hillside church and cemetery of St. Valentin overlooks the Adige Valley basin on the edge of Tramin.

If you plan to visit the St. Valentin Church, consider driving to it either before or after you have explored Tramin’s village center. You can reach the church in a matter of minutes by car versus embarking on a somewhat lengthy trek by foot.

Discovering the Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter

The wine of Tramin has been beloved for centuries. Books of long ago call out the potent qualities of “Traminer” wine. It was said to possess healing powers and spark passions among lovers.

Such veneration was likely referring to what we now call Gewürztraminer. This highly aromatic, spicy-sweet grape varietal was born in Tramin more than a thousand years ago. The name actually means “the spicy one from Tramin”.

Tramin, Italy Vineyards — Breathtaking scenery? Just a bit. The vineyards of Tramin encircle the village with lushness during the growing season.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps. In fact, they were of such high esteem that in the early 15th-century legendary minnesinger Oswald von Wolkenstein penned a lovesick song about Tramin wines. His lips longed for the flavor while subjected to sipping lesser vintages during his troubadouring travels.

Today, you can find Tramin’s wines sold throughout the world, but there is no better way to discover their mountain-born magic than visiting its wineries. One revered winery not to miss is J. Hofstätter. After embarking on a tasting, you too will be singing praises of the wine just like Sir Oswald.

Pioneers of Alto Adige

Rising from the cobbles of Tramin near the aforementioned Parish Church is the courtly manor of J. Hofstätter wines. Founded in 1907 by Josef Hofstätter, the estate sits on the village edge right below a vast expanse of vineyards that ripple to the summit of Kastelaz hill. Stretch your eyes further up still and you will enjoy the sight of a spruce-speckled Mt. Roen, which watches over all at a height of nearly 7,000 ft.

The winery itself consists of six levels including a wine shop, wine bar, restaurant and a cellar that is a must-see.

Now in its fourth generation, Martin Foradori Hofstätter currently oversees 124 acres making the estate one of the largest family-owned wineries in South Tyrol. Twenty-five of this acreage abounds around Tramin with additional vines grown on the slopes across the valley.

Markus Heinel of J. Hofstatter Wines — J. Hofstätter winemaker, Markus Heinel, is a talented oenologist who wears his passion for the craft on his face. His love for the vines shines through in the glass.

According to the winemaker, Markus Heinel, these vineyards sit at elevations varying between 820 and 2790 ft. This allows the J. Hofstätter estate to optimally harness a host of microclimates and soil conditions in its production.

Such diversity paired with innovation and a rare, unwavering vision to meet exacting standards has led to wines of international acclaim year after year. When it comes to producing exquisite wines, Markus made it clear, patience is more than a valued virtue at J. Hofstätter, it is mandatory.

The winery itself consists of six levels including a wine shop, wine bar, restaurant and a cellar that is a must-see. It holds fermentation tanks unlike any we have ever seen. Made of nearly eight-inch thick concrete, these cocoon-looking casks were the first of their kind in South Tyrol.

J. Hofstatter Wine Cellar — J. Hofstätter helped pioneer a more sustainable winemaking approach in Alto Adige by being the first to use concrete fermentation tanks.

Besides just being plain fun to look at, they facilitate gentle fermentation and support J. Hofstätter’s environmentally-friendly winemaking process by preserving temperatures. Markus indicated their pioneering fermentation method has since been replicated by other wineries in the region.

An Inspired Portfolio

The J. Hofstätter portfolio comprises 15 whites and 12 reds with a primary focus on five of the traditional local varieties: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Lagrein, and Vernatsch. The wines fall into one of three lines: Classic, Selection and Single-vineyard.

The Classic wines exhibit the typical varietal character of Alto Adige wines. Selection wines, on the other hand, are produced from carefully selected grapes and include a red blend and a white blend.

J. Hofstätter’s Single-vineyard wines are the pinnacle of the portfolio. They embody the winery’s most treasured vineyards and are born from grapes sourced from a single historic plot.

Markus noted these wines include the word “Vigna” on the label which certifies the wine originates from grapes ripened in single demarcated vineyards. The J. Hofstätter estate pioneered this classification setting a quality standard for premium Alto Adige wines.

Single-vineyards wines stand apart in the wine world as they represent the ultimate expression of their terroir — the defining characteristics captured from a grape varietal’s natural environment.

Tasting Tramin and Beyond

Our tasting with Markus included sampling five of J. Hofstätter’s most renowned wines.

We began with Pinot Blanc (also known as Pinot Bianco and Weissburgunder) — a star white of Alto Adige. Markus informed us the Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Noir. It is a true cool-climate grape thriving at elevations up to 2,600 ft.

J. Hofstatter’s Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinto Blanc originates from the winery’s Barthenau estate at an elevation of almost 1,500 ft. It was delightfully crisp and rich with delicious notes of apple, pear and almond. An elegant stunner that would do wonders on a hot summer day.

The Pinot Blanc was followed up with the estate’s Joseph Gewürztraminer from their Selection series. Markus shared that this is their textbook Gewürztraminer — showcasing all the classic attributes of the wine: full-bodied with a bright straw yellow color, a powerful aromatic character of rose petals and ginger with a vibrant and long finish.

Next, Markus poured the estate’s Single-vineyard Gewürztraminer: Kolbenhof. This deep golden beauty is made from select grapes grown in the family’s steep Kolbenhof vineyard, which is in the hamlet of Söll overlooking Tramin. It possesses an enthralling fruit intensity and aromas that win your heart before even tipping the glass to your nose. In the mouth, it was uniquely lush with a long elegant finish.

J. Hofstätter is unique in Tramin in that guests can also discover the art of viticulture.

We followed up the Gewürztraminer tasting with the winery’s selection of Pinot Nero (more commonly known as Pinot Noir). The first Pinot sampled was the Riserva Mazon. It hails from the other side of the Adige Valley on a slope known as Mazon. Grown here, the grapes benefit from a beaming evening sun and the cooling effects of the “Ora” winds bestowed from Lake Garda to the south.

The Mazon Riserva is a full-bodied, deep red elegant Pinot Nero. The wine’s extensive aging in oak barrels imparts a wild fruity aroma with a velvety smooth feel that almost massages the mouth.

Swirling J. Hofstatter Pinot Noir — Our favorite of the tasting, the Barthenau Vigna San Urbano put Italy on the map for great Pinot Noirs.

Our last wine with Markus was another Pinot Nero from the Mazon estate. This one stole the show. The Barthenau Vigna San Urbano is a darky ruby gem whose fruit-driven style with hints of vanilla and chocolate has made the Mazon estate the most celebrated vineyard for Pinot Nero in Italy.

The name of the wine pays homage to a professor who introduced the Pinot Nero variety to Alto Adige in the late 19th century. J. Hofstätter has masterfully continued this gentleman’s vision by producing a Pinot Nero that ranks among the best in the world. It truly personifies the attributes that make wine from Alto Adige so special.

Visiting J. Hofstätter Wine Estate

Besides being a destination to enjoy delicious wines, J. Hofstätter is unique in Tramin in that guests can also discover the age-old art of viticulture. The estate’s Show Vine Garden flourishes with Gewürztraminer vines where you can witness how vintners tend to the vineyard from morning until dark.

Hofstatter Winery Tour — J. Hofstätter offers guided excursion through three of its picturesque vineyards.

In addition, the winery offers vineyard and cellar tours if booked in advance. Both include expert-led tastings that give you an intimate understanding of the special characteristics of J. Hofstätter’s wines.

The wine shop, bar and restaurant open and close at various times. But no matter when you visit Tramin, you should have no problem finding time to make the J. Hofstätter Wine Estate a part of your experience.

Reveling in Tradition

If you can time your visit to Tramin during one of its many annual events, you will be immersed in a thrilling cultural experience. These lively celebrations may even leave you feeling more festive than polishing off a bottle of its wines.

Wine lovers will definitely find revelry swirling about during the annual Tramin Wine Lane. This fall celebration occurs on a Saturday in late October beginning in the early afternoon until midnight.

The festival takes place in the alleys of Tramin allowing you to sample a variety of locally produced wines while nibbling on roasted chestnuts and other seasonal delights. As you wander the alleys, you’ll encounter local groups performing traditional Tyrolean music and dance.

Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more.

If you have never watched such performances, enjoying them in the old world atmosphere of Tramin is especially fascinating. The spirit of the event is infectious and will no doubt create a lasting fond memory of your time in South Tyrol. For more information on the Tramin Wine Lane, check out the event’s official page.

Traditional Men's Tyrolean Dance — Care to dance? Traditional Tyrolean dances ensue up and down the main alley of Tramin during its annual Wine Lane event.

Every other year during February is another unique event of Tramin known as the Egetmann Parade. This Carnival celebration occurs on Fat Tuesday and attracts thousands of spectators.

The parade has a long history in Tramin with records indicating it occurring as far back as 1591. We have yet to participate in this notorious raucous custom, but have heard it can be loud and brash with a good measure of harmless naughtiness flung from the floats. Certainly a rousing tradition not to be missed if you are in South Tyrol in February.

Besides these events, Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more. To see a list of current happenings while planning your visit, scroll through Tramin’s event page.

Where to Stay

Beyond the sights and activities we covered above, Tramin is a biker’s paradise offering pedaling adventures through truly epic Mediterranean scenery crowned with Alpine vistas. With Mt. Roen looming over Tramin, hikers and bikers have plenty of elevation to explore as well.

Such an abundance of South Tyrolean goodness all in one area makes Tramin a great town to stay in. The uber-modern Hotel Traminerhof is conveniently located within walking distance of the village’s heart. Not only does the hotel allow easy access to all of Tramin’s charms, but it also caters to bikers with guided tours and provides all the amenities to immerse yourself in the benefits of Alpine wellness.

Weingut Dona Winery — Interested in knowing more about South Tyrol’s wine culture? Stay on the South Tyrolean Wine Road at small family-owned wineries like **Weingut Donà.**

If you’re looking for a dash of romance, consider staying along the South Tyrolean Wine Road at a boutique winery. Donà Winery (Weingut Donà in German), is a lovely family-owned estate placing you the in middle of vineyards tumbling beneath one of South Tyrol’s most spectacular castle ruins. The winery’s location is ideal for visiting Tramin and other sights along the Wine Road.

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Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

Lana, Italy is a beaming bouquet of South Tyrol’s most beloved qualities. Here is your guide to adventure and enchantment in this lustrous hidden gem.

No matter how many adventures you embark on in South Tyrol, the land never fails to surprise you. This rings especially true when visiting Lana.

A lively town tucked in the middle of orchards and vineyards between Bolzano and Merano, Lana makes a wonderful base during your trip to South Tyrol, especially in autumn when chestnuts, wine and Törggelen summon a festive spirit.

It teems with historic sights caught in the enthralling tango of Alpine and Mediterranean scenery. Wondrous castles and tiny chapels spellbind amid arcades of grapevines, neat rows of fruit trees and wild stands of mountain pine.

As we show you below, Lana is as bountiful in producing moments of awe as it is in some of the most prized grapes and apples in Europe.

What to See & Do in Lana

All of South Tyrol’s splendor from the majestic peaks of the Dolomites to the cosmopolitan allure of Bolzano and Merano are within easy reach of Lana. But the town itself abounds with so many swoon-worthy views, riveting hiking trails and cultural wonders that it is a must experience all its own.

If you only have a few days to visit, here are the top things to see and do in the “California of the Alps”.

1. Explore Mount Vigiljoch

A trip to South Tyrol is not complete without enjoying the sweeping panoramas from the skyscraping heights of a mountain. And there is perhaps no better mountain to ascend than Vigiljoch (also known as San Vigilio). A 6,200+ foot giant, the mountain careens to the heavens from the foot of Lana.

This forest-clad massif lets you peer deep to the east to spy some of the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites. But the theater of the sky does not end there. To the west, rise the magnificent Ortler Alps where the king of South Tyrol’s peaks, Ortler, commands reverence. Turn your eyes to the north and the Ötztal Alps thunder before you. These peaks were the glacial home to Ötzi the Iceman for 5,300 years.

The San Vigilio Cable Car from Lana whisks you partway up the mountain in a matter of minutes. Built in 1912, it is the second oldest cable car in Europe.

Hiking trail on Mount Vigiljoch — A hike on Mount Vigiljoch on a clear day offers views of the Dolomites to the east.

At the end of the ride, you can continue the sweat-free ascent by hopping on a lift chair. It will drop you below a hill crowned by the San Vigilio Church. This small stone chapel rises from the ruins of a prehistoric shrine. Since the Medieval Age, the San Vigilio Church has welcomed patrons.

Taking the chairlift no doubt stuns above the treetops, but it robs you of one of the most serene hikes in South Tyrol. After departing the cable car, we recommend hiking trail no. 1, which leads you through ancient larch forests where the silence greets you like a long lost friend.

Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal while naming each peak of the Dolomites beautifying the horizon.

From trail no. 1 you will take trail 34A up a boulder-riddled slope that opens into a bright meadow with a mountain stream pouring its heart out. The mineral-rich water of Vigiljoch is revered for its healing properties. In fact, the spa Terme Merano fills its thermal pools with water pumped directly from the mountain.

Mount Vigiljoch Water and Mushroom — It pays to also look down while hiking Mount Vigiljoch. Alpine magic springs forth from within the mountain.

Trail no. 34A eventually connects with trail no. 34B. We recommend hopping on 34B to ramble your way up to the Bärenbadalm. Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal while naming each peak of the Dolomites beautifying the horizon.

When ready continue hiking on trail no. 2. Within 20 minutes you will reach San Vigilio Church. A stone path snakes off the trail guiding you to the church entrance.

First mentioned in 1278, locals still refer to the church as the “weather church” as it is said to protect people from thunderstorms. It is not open to guests, but the gated doorway allows you to peek inside and ponder faded frescoes from the 14th century.

Mount Vigiljoch Church — Trekking to the San Vigilio Church is a must while in Lana.

After admiring the church, shuffle down the slope to begin your return to the San Vigilio Cable Car. Follow trail no. 4 to the chairlift station and then veer off to trail no. 8. A short walk leads to an outlook platform jutting out above the tips of pines. Here, you will survey a grand checkerboard of vineyards and orchards, far-off villages and an even clearer picture of the Dolomites.

Trek back to trail no. 4 and follow it down the mountain to trail no. 34. Once on trail no. 34, it is only another 20 minutes to the cable car station. Before floating back to Lana, consider relaxing with a refreshment on the sun terrace of the Vigilius Mountain Resort — a 5-star resort that seemingly disappears into the mountainside.

2. Trek the Marlinger Waalweg

If you have never hiked along a Waalweg in South Tyrol, the Marlinger Waalweg (also known as Marlengo) is a picturesque introduction to the magic these trails offer hikers. Waalwegs are ancient waterways that run throughout the countryside of Merano and Val Venosta.

As early as the 12th century, farmers carved them into the mountainsides to channel snowmelt from the summits. Capturing the pure elixir flowing from the peaks was the surest way to satisfy the thirst of the area’s orchards and vineyards. Paths followed the canals allowing farmers to keep them free of debris.

The sweet aromas enveloping the trail are enough alone to impart a smile on even the most haggard hiker.

The Marlinger Waalweg was built nearly 300 years ago and stretches 7+ miles high above the Etschtal valley (Val d’Adige) from Lana to the small hamlet of Töll. Hiking it takes 4-5 hours gently weaving you through a wealth of natural beauty.

Waalweg near Lana — The Marlinger Waalweg offers you 7+ miles of breathtaking beauty.

A handful of mountainside restaurants such as the Gasthaus Leitenschenke sit right on the trail pairing sumptuous dishes with even more sumptuous views. If you dine at Gasthaus Leitenschenke in autumn, be sure to order the South Tyrolean Chestnut Hearts dessert. It is a delectable dream of chocolate, chestnuts and cream not to miss.

As you walk along the trail, the calming melody of babbling water remains your companion. You’ll pass through orchards dappled with apples, plums and other fruits and dart underneath arches of vines basking their bulbous jewels in the sun.

The sweet aromas enveloping the trail are enough alone to impart a smile on even the most haggard hiker.

Eventually, the path bends through deciduous forests and groves of old chestnut trees. These elders of the waalweg welcome you with ample amounts of shade and a bit of mischief as you may have to dodge the occasional falling chestnut.

3. Storm the Lebenberg Castle

The most striking historic sight you will encounter on the Marlinger Waalweg is the Lebenberg Castle (also known as Castel Monteleone). It salutes you from high above a steep avalanche of vineyards tumbling to the valley floor.

The Lords of Marling adorned the mountainside with Lebenberg Castle in the 13th century. While it is a sight worthy of lengthy admiration from a distance, the real pleasure comes from walking among its illustrious walls.

Studying the room one can't help but wonder what history remains hidden behind each blade and musket.

Inside, the sprawling fortress reveals the romantic and brutal realities of medieval life. The tour begins in a courtyard bedecked with grapevines and proceeds to the castle’s Gothic chapel of St. Stephan. Adjoined to Lebenberg in the 14th century, the chapel is awash in religious artwork of the time.

Lebenberg Castle Panorama — Views fit for a king. The Lebenberg Castle is one of the most celebrated castles in South Tyrol.

After visiting the chapel, the tour continues to another courtyard and to a room holding a collection of arms and torture contraptions. Studying the room one can’t help but wonder what history remains hidden behind each blade and musket.

Before concluding the tour, it also brings you to a Hall of Mirrors, Hall of Knights and another courtyard showcasing French Rococo gardens ornamented with a 200-year old mulberry tree. The vast view of the Etschtal valley through the battlements lining the courtyard paints a vivid picture of why the Lords of Marling chose this mountainside perch.

Reaching Lebenberg castle from the Marlinger Waalweg is a bit of a climb. However, you can also drive to the castle if you wish. Tours are available daily for 8€.

4. Experience the Brandis Waterfall

From the remote crags of the Pacific Northwest and the Rockies to the forested wilds of North America, we have encountered many roaring waterfalls during our hiking adventures, but the tireless plunge of the Brandis waterfall above Lana is among the most eye-catching.

Crashing over cliffs on the edge of the Brandis Waalweg like a pot of gold spilling at the end of a rainbow, the Brandis waterfall is not the grandest we have ever seen. However, its accessible setting gives you something most waterfalls do not: the opportunity to intimately experience its breathless rush. If careful, you can hike nearly beneath the thundering downpour and let its misty splash tickle your face.

Branches gnarled lurch over the trail as if they could snatch you at any moment.

Reaching the waterfall involves a 2+ mile hike along the Brandis Waalweg. Forged by the Lord of Brandis in the 1800s, the water of this waalweg runs beneath the trail instead of by its side.

The Brandis Waalweg leads you on a pleasant, flat ground walk through vineyards and orchards bearing everything from apples to kiwi. As it is set into the mountainside, the trail boasts sweeping views of Lana including historical gems such as the St. Margherita Chapel, the crumbling ruins of Brandis Castle and the Parish Church of Maria Himmelfarht, celebrated for its winged altar carved out of chestnut in the early 1500s.

About halfway through the hike, an old chestnut forest receives you with shade and alarm. Branches gnarled with age lurch over the trail as if they could snatch you at any moment.

In the heart of the grounds, tempts an immense labyrinth made from an entanglement of evergreen hedges and grapevines.

Beyond the forest lies a few farmsteads where you may have to negotiate the trail with a loose chicken or three while trying to ignore the laughter of llamas below. Eventually, you will pass intriguing works of art dotting the trail before entering the Brandis Gaul. From here, you will trot over a wooden bridge following the Brandis stream all the way to the waterfall.

On the return hike, the Waalrast restaurant offers a chance to drink and eat under the guard of the Brandis Castle before venturing back to the trail’s starting point. Round trip the hike takes roughly 2 hours.

5. Summit the Hill of St. Hippolyt Church

Like the ancient stone chapel on Mount Vigiljoch, the Church of St. Hippolyt near Lana is not among the most arresting churches one could adore, but the scenery from its rocky hilltop transcends any cathedral.

Once atop, your eyes will sweep over 20 villages and 40 some odd castles strewn across the lush valley.

This small Romanesque church from the 1200s honors a relatively unknown patron whose past is largely born of legend. Fitting in a way, as the hill the Church of St. Hippolyt sits upon has religious roots dating back 4,000 years. Since ancient times, it was thought to be a source of mystical energy.

Trails around Lana lead to St. Hippolyt, but the quickest way to reach the church is to start from a parking lot located at the foot of its hill. From here, it is a 10-15 minute hike through woodland to the summit. The hike is relatively easy with only a few steep stretches.

6. Contemplate the Gardens & Wine of Kränzelhof Winery

When a town is crowned the largest fruit-growing community in South Tyrol, it is not difficult to happen upon a thriving garden. However, you will not find any more captivating than the seven gardens of the Kränzelhof Estate.

Beyond producing wines of exceptional esteem, this 800-year-old winery also seduces your mind, body and soul with seven gardens embellishing nearly 5 acres at the foot of Mount Vigiljoch. Sculptures and works of art spanning classical to contemporary decorate the immaculately manicured gardens encouraging you to pause and ponder their meaning.

Not all of the sculptures are in obvious places and poses. This imparts a whimsical spirit to the gardens as some will pleasantly surprise you from their hidden nooks.

In the heart of the grounds, tempts an immense labyrinth made from an entanglement of evergreen hedges and grapevines. As we visited the estate near sunset, we gave up puzzling our way through the verdurous maze shortly after entering. We were certain continuing meant some other lost soul would one day stumble over our bones deep within.

After strolling the gardens, we recommend continuing your contemplative journey by tasting the wines of Kränzelhof in the splendid timber house located at the entrance to the gardens. Even if you do not want to sip wine, be sure to walk through the structure. It is beautifully crafted from larch trees found nearby.

Kranzelhof Gardens in Lana — Seven gardens ravish the grounds around the Kränzelhof Winery.

The Kränzelhof Estate and its gardens are open Tuesday-Saturday. You are free to walk the gardens on your own, but guided tours of the entire estate are also available for those interested in consuming the winery’s remarkable history in addition to its wines.

We suggest planning on at least two hours to fully enjoy the Kränzelhof experience. The cost to tour the winery’s gardens and sample its wines is 21€. If you wish to only discover the gardens, the cost is 8€.

Where to Stay in Lana

Hotels and resorts teem around Lana, but our recommendation is to delight in this timeless town like a local. Experiencing Lana in such a way gives you a greater appreciation for its authentic charms, soulful spirit and historical beauty.

The studio apartments of Landhaus am Gries are ideally located in the old world heart of Lana along the Falschauer river. Gorgeously decorated and furnished with exquisite craftsmanship throughout, the apartments possess a simple-yet-stylish Alpine interior aesthetic with warm wood tones that make you feel at home. Ours was cozy and spotless, with a dramatic view of autumn afire beneath the mountain crests.

The moment you walk into Landhaus am Gries the revivifying aroma of fresh-cut stone pine embraces you.

The apartments’ location below the gaze of the 13th-century Braunsberg Castle places you within walking distance of all of Lana’s spectacular sights, restaurants and shops. In addition, a small grocery store, wine bar, butcher shop and specialty gourmet store sit nearby allowing you to easily pick up any items you may want in your apartment.

Owned and operated by the Donà family of South Tyrol, the heart-warming hospitality we received during our stay went above and beyond in every manner. Franziska Donà ensures your time in Lana is filled with the idyllic mix of adventure and relaxation.

Apartment at Landhaus am Gries — Aromatic wood from the Alps fills each **Landhaus am Gries** apartment with endearing Alpine character.

She will pinpoint how to reach the destinations mentioned above as well as share insights on special events like Lana’s weekly and seasonal markets. In addition, you will receive a MeranCard that provides special discounts to guests of Lana at certain venues such as the San Vigilio Cable Car station.

Each of the twelve apartments includes a modern kitchenette, spacious bathroom and a balcony where you can relax with a complimentary bottle from the family’s own boutique winery — Weingut Donà. This lovely winery in Eppan along the South Tyrolean Wine Road is a must-see if your South Tyrol travel wish list includes a genuine peek into the region’s wine culture.

When wishing to soak in the sun or get lost in a good book, a Mediterranean-inspired terrace facing the Falschauer river and Texel Mountain Group welcomes you with lounge chairs, olive trees and palms. Its lofty position above a leafy riverside promenade is a soul-mending way to spend a morning or afternoon.

Landhaus am Gries Sun Terrace — Kate unwinds on the Landhaus am Gries sun terrace after a morning rain shower. Lying just above the Falschauer river, the terrace is an inviting sanctuary for relaxation.

In fact, Landhaus am Gries’ riverside setting may just induce your best night’s sleep while in South Tyrol. We relished dozing off to the lullaby of rippling water rushing by our apartment each night with the skylight giving us a window to the stars above South Tyrol.

The moment you walk into Landhaus am Gries the revivifying aroma of fresh-cut stone pine (called Zirbenholz) embraces you. This sought-after pine of the Alps beautifies the building instilling tranquility that endures during your stay. For centuries, the Alpine regions of Europe have harnessed the wellness aspects of stone pine in their homes. Its pleasant fragrance remains in the wood for decades.

River in Lana in South Tyrol — Of forests, rivers and mountains — Landhaus am Gries places the natural beauty of Lana right outside your door.

The apartment building itself holds a storied past. A farm stable long ago, its rural roots are ennobled by its age-old stone foundation and a historic sculpture gracing a wall near the entrance. A depiction of the patron saint of butchers, the sculpture at one time belonged to a butcher in the family. It once brought good fortune to the butcher shop, but now imparts blessings on all who pause to admire the saint. Dogs included.

If you’re lucky enough to bring your furry friend to South Tyrol, Landhaus am Gries is dog-friendly. A newly opened art promenade running along the river gives your dog plenty to explore just a few steps outside your apartment. Within minutes you can also walk to the imposing Gaul Canyon (“Gaulschlucht”) — a spectacle of steep stone walls, curious rock formations and rainforest-like flora.

If you have a car while in South Tyrol, parking is free and located immediately next to the apartment building.

Where to Eat in Lana

Lana and its surrounding villages offer an abundance of one-of-a-kind dining options, from down-to-earth to opulent. Here are a few of our favorite places to eat during your visit.

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery is an establishment unlike any we have ever been. Not only can you indulge in tasty craft brews, but you also can dine in their beer garden or traditional Buschenschank where windows offer a peek into farm animals frolicking within Pfefferlechner’s stables.

Their menu of course nicely complements the rustic ambiance. You can feast on delicious South Tyrolean fare freshly-made from only local ingredients.

Restaurant Stadele

Restaurant Stadele is a romantic gem not to be missed while in Lana. The quaint atmosphere of this candlelit restaurant and its fabulous South Tyrolean dishes and fusion cuisine will make for one of your memorable dining experiences in South Tyrol.

From our first sip to our last bite, the warm hospitality, presentation and flavor were superb. Even better, the menu is affordably priced. For the same experience in the U.S., it would cost us twice as much.

Zur Sonne

Sometimes after an adventured-filled day on the trails, you just want to unwind with a glass of wine…and pizza. Zur Sonne is the perfect place for such an evening.

This tiny family restaurant located on a shop-filled street of Lana makes some of the best Italian pies in the Alps. Be sure to save room for a homemade dessert or two.

1477 Reichhalter

If you cannot decide on South Tyrolean or Italian fare, choose 1477 Reichhalter to savor both. Possessing a simple yet stylish farmhouse feel in a quiet corner of Lana, 1477 Reichhalter is renowned for its high-quality dishes and friendly service.

Dining at 1477 Reichhalter is an intimate experience — almost as if you are eating at the home of your best friend. After our meal, we considered reordering our dishes just to enjoy the delightful flavors all over again. 1477 Reichhalter is definitely a restaurant you will want to return to whenever in South Tyrol.

Mein Beck

Like trekking a mountain trail, satisfying your sweet tooth at a bakery while in South Tyrol is a must. Mein Beck is a bustling neighboorhood bakery and cafe sure to brighten your morning with a wide assortment of heavenly pastries, breads, cakes and other celebrated specialties of South Tyrol.

We enjoyed a huge breakfast spread here while in Lana. If you plan to visit Mein Beck, keep your morning schedule light. The bakery is popular with locals and can be quite busy.

When to Visit Lana

Honestly, a trip to Lana is ideal at any time of year. The abundance of outdoor adventure and sights awaiting you means every season will be astounding.

Snow lovers will revel in winter hikes on Mount Vigiljoch and world-class skiing on the surrounding peaks. Not to mention in the Dolomites, which are just 45 minutes away. If you visit during the holiday season, you can also stroll Lana’s boutique Christmas market. It is as enchanting as they come. You will definitely find a local craft or specialty that captures your heart.

During our visit last December, we discovered the restorative powers of South Tyrolean mountain pine oil from Alpine wellness experts: Eschgfellers Alpenecke. This aromatic treasure brings a calming touch of the Alps to our home almost every day.

Our most recent trip to Lana was this past autumn. If you time your visit between September and October, you will be rewarded with some of the most colorful scenery in South Tyrol. Furthermore, autumn in Lana allows you to partake in a variety of harvest celebrations such as Törggelen and Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival) as well as the Merano Grape Festival.

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Casks, Castles & Christmas – Revelry at Castel Rametz

By Kate & Vin 19 Comments

With its towering battlements radiating amid vine-drenched hills and mountains lanced by snow, Castel Rametz is, without doubt, a quintessential sight of South Tyrol.

The wine estate, perhaps more than any other, embodies the beauty of Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes conspiring with medieval contours to steal your breath.

Perched above Merano in the luxuriant district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz was etched on our must-see list ever since first admiring its stately manner from the mountainside of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

When we discovered the estate hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit. The chance to turn several shades of merry before even setting foot in the traditional Christmas market of Merano was too enticing to pass up.

A Hillside Haunt Steeped in History

While Castel Rametz has seen rulers come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful owner to its throne. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of wine soon followed.

Antique photo of Castel Rametz — Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate. These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”. Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol.

Courting Christmas Cheer

We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of man’s best friend.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lied beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its hallowed stones.

Castel Rametz Mercatino — The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with exquisite holiday dazzle. Classy decor and a roaring fire made it a sanctuary for the season. Looking around, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

The old-world ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

A stand in the courtyard offered traditional delicacies to delight in while enjoying the smokey crackle of logs aflame. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to browse the Christmas market within the castle.

Inside, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar — The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is a marvel to browse.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The old-world character of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

Amid the glow of flickering flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow. In a nearby stone nook, a carefully carved nativity scene caught our eye. We studied its graceful beauty beneath lights casting the deep blue hues of a winter’s night sky.

Gift of the Vines – Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We could have remained enveloped in the ambiance of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wines that makes us want to uncork one. Embarking on a wine tasting next in Castel Rametz’s enoteca seemed wildly appropriate as our next stop.

We climbed the cellar stairs parking ourselves on two seats at the wine tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz — The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to enjoy a remarkable tasting.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Whether you're a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to uncork at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website.

A wayside shrine in the vineyards of Castel Rametz — The guardian of Castel Rametz watches vigilantly from the foot of the castle’s shrine.

Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also enjoy a meal here.

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Enchantment Set in Stone – Brunnenburg Castle

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

How do you defend a castle? If you are a Tyrolean, you build another beneath it. For almost 800 years, Brunnenburg Castle (also known as Castel Fontana) has stood like a stone shield to the most prominent castle in northern Italy — Castle Tirol.

In 1250, the Counts of Tyrol commissioned the fortress as a defensive outpost. It was erected on a glacial crag downslope from Castle Tirol providing watchmen a focused eye deep into the valley openings of Merano and Vinschgau.

Despite Brunnenburg’s position below Castle Tirol, both in royal command and mountain clinging elevation, this warden of the north is not any less impressive. Its ivy-mantled tower bears stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

The castle isolated on its own is enough to strike fear into an invading army. But seeing it paired with the mother of all castles looming above must have been a sight that sent road-weary raiders racing back to their homelands. Sacking one castle is hard enough. Two? Forget about it.

Sanctuary for a Troubled Poet

Today, instead of inspiring fear, Brunnenburg is more likely to inspire a poem. And in fact, it has. The castle was once home to the literary heavyweight, Erza Pound. After his release from a mental institution in 1958, Pound joined his daughter and grandchildren at Brunnenburg.

Brunnenburg's ivy-mantled towers bear stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

Erza Pound Portrait — Erza Pound, master of poetic prose. A comb? Not so much.

He spent his time tending to the castle grounds and gardens while continuing to pen prose for The Cantos — an epic poem that is comprised of 116 sections known as a “canto”. Given its length and often abstract musicality, The Cantos is viewed by many as a chaotic piece of work. Perhaps the genius of a fragmented mind that like the vines scaling Brunnenburg can only be adored in their entirety.

Pound’s daughter purchased the castle with her spouse 10 years prior to his arrival. Together, they saved Brunnenburg from a second bout of ruin. The first occurring hundreds of years earlier and lasting until 1903 when a wealthy German named Karl Schwickert bought the castle.

Schwickert thoroughly renovated Brunnenburg fashioning the castle into a more romantic form that woos visitors to this day. Yet for all its trappings of fancy, the castle could not escape tragedy. Schwickert’s wife suspiciously fell to her death from one of the balconies in 1904. He remained in the castle until his death in 1925.

Brunnenburg Folk Art — Brunnenburg Castle displays an assortment of fascinating historical artifacts and folk art from South Tyrol.

As Brunnenburg sat empty for more than 20 years, tales of hauntings arose as they tend to in soulless dwellings. Whether Pound ever encountered a ghost is not known. But by the reading of some of his poetry, one could say his mind was never far from hauntings of its own.

A Throne Amid the Vines

Brunnenburg Castle Vines — If only these age-old vines could tell tales.

Fortunately, you do not have to possess a mind wired for poetry or a heart pumping royal blood to stroll through the halls and terraces of Brunnenburg. Visiting the castle is a pleasant walk downhill from the village of Dorf Tirol along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path).

By the way, this is the same path you take to visit Castle Tirol. Several points along the journey give you sweeping views of both castles with the snow-kissed peaks of the Texel mountain group photobombing it all in the background.

Brunnenburg is most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn's paintbrush is most alive with vibrant color.

As you walk the path, you’ll notice a deep ravine dividing the two castles. Don’t worry. You don’t need to latch to a zip line to visit both. Look for a signpost directing to a path off-shooting to Brunnenburg. This winding treasure descends through terraced vineyards, orchards and patches of old growth forest. Be careful as you walk here. The fairytale scenery may just have you whistling an ode to a fair maiden or prince.

Another more adventurous way to reach the castle is by hiking up the mountainside from the Algunder Waalweg or Tappeiner Promenade. Despite being quite a bit more grueling, these two paths are our favorite way to reach Brunnenburg. When the castle’s crenelated walls appear seemingly out of nowhere above a steep vineyard, it is a sight that wins your heart as much as the seductive juice from the vines running up to its gate.

Reaching Brunnenburg by trekking the Tappeiner Promenade from the heart of Merano will make the most enchanting walk in Italy even more enthralling.

To visit the castle from either path, you will eventually depart the trails and walk on a road called Gnaidweg or Via Gnaid. This road will lead you to a rugged path known as Brunnenburgsteig. It leads you up through a forest along an irrigation channel flanked by a vineyard on your left and an orchard on your right. The passage through the forest is rather steep, but not dangerous.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

When to Visit Brunnenburg Castle

We have admired Brunnenburg Castle in spring, autumn and winter. Each season imparts its own beauty to the castle.

But we have found it the most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn’s paintbrush is most alive. Hiking along the Brunnenburgsteig then is like opening gift basket of aromas.

The Castles of Tirol — A brotherhood of strongholds, Castle Tirol and Brunnenburg Castle loom under the autumn sun.

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — Nothing else quite like Brunnenburg in autumn. The castle vines decorate the walls in the magnificent color of the season.

Beyond visiting the castle for a dose of medieval whimsy, it can also whisk you on a cultural odyssey. Brunnenburg is home to the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum and Erza Pound Memorial Center. The museum displays age-old equipment that speaks to the traditional methods of South Tyrolean winemakers and farmers once used to cultivate a season’s harvest.

In addition to the museum, you can appreciate a collection of historical folk art and a variety of domesticated farm animals trotting outside the castle including goats, sheep, pigs, chickens and geese. Grazing in such a heavenly place makes being a farm animal in South Tyrol look rather posh.

Saltner of South Tyrol — While visiting the castle, take time to walk through the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum. You can stand toe-to-toe with a “saltner”. While wearing wild-looking garb, his job was once to protect vineyards from birds and thieves.

Brunnenburg Castle is open for visitors from early April through October. Doors open at 10:00 am and close at 5 pm from Sunday-Thursday.

For those driving in South Tyrol, we recommend parking in the center of Dorf Tirol and walking to the castle from the village.

If you visit Brunnenburg and walk away with a poem, be sure to add it in the comments below. You may find yourself being a poet without ever knowing it.

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St. Valentin Chapel – A Hilltop Jewel in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 20 Comments

At the foot of the jarring Schlern massif lies one of the most beautiful churches of the Dolomites. St. Valentin Chapel is blessed with a mountain backdrop so immediate and immense it makes one’s heart flutter with awe.

The chapel’s existence was first documented in 1244; however, the exact year it came to grace a hilltop below the Siusi Alps is not known. But in a way, one could say the chapel saw its first breath of life on February 14th in 269 AD. The day a Christian priest, known as Valentine, met his end at the edge of a sword.

His crime? Violating an edict issued by Roman Emperor Claudius Gothicus that prohibited the marriage of young couples. The emperor believed unmarried soldiers made better warriors. His warped mind thought if soldiers had wives or children it would weigh too much on them in battle.

In 496, Pope Gelasius I inaugurated the Feast of Saint Valentine to be celebrated annually on February 14 in veneration of the Christian martyr. Hundreds of years later the chapel of St. Valentin was built to honor the saint. Fast forward hundreds of years more, and throngs of heart-shaped Hallmark cards with poetic effusions to love blanket marketplace shelves the world over each February.

That’s all fine and well, but we’ll take the reverant sight of St. Valentin Chapel over a dozen roses any day.

Here’s more about this historic hilltop jewel and how to enjoy it with your own eyes while adventuring in the Dolomites.

At the Gate of the Dolomites

Perched on a grassy knoll high above the idyllic village of Seis (Siusi), St. Valentin Chapel is a must-see for those spending time exploring the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), Europe’s largest Alpine prairie, which surges another 2,000 feet into the sky from where the chapel sits.

Its time-worn spire crowned with a crimson dome is impossible to miss no matter if you come into the village from the north or south.

The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

Besides its picturesque pose below the Siusi Alp, St. Valentin Chapel is celebrated for its remarkable frescoes inside and on its outer walls. They date back to the 14th and 15th century.

St. Valentin Chapel Fresco — A fresco on the outer wall of St. Valentin depicts a scene of the Three Kings with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background.

Schlern Massif — A looming presence. The view of the Schlern massif from St. Valentin Chapel.

We found one of the frescoes on the outer wall facing the village particularly intriguing as it shows the Three Kings greeting the infant Jesus with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background. The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

After admiring the medieval artwork, we took a seat at a nearby bench to let the South Tyrolean sun and antiquity wash over us. While sitting we spotted a castle ruin far away clinging to the mountainside. We later learned it was the crumbling fortress of Hauenstein Castle.

A relic from the 12th century, it was once home to Oswald Von Wolkenstein, a famed medieval minnesinger that followed in the footsteps of the Jim Morrison of medieval times — Walther von der Vogelweide.

For Whom the Bell Tolls

St. Valentin Chapel and Schlern Massif — Legend has it, a bell within the St. Valentin Chapel wards off spells from witches.

The Dolomites are a land littered with ancient legends…some as jolting as the peaks themselves. It came as no surprise then when we discovered the little chapel of St. Valentin bears a bull-size legend of its own.

For thousands of years, Schlern mountain has towered amid tales of witches. The tumultuous thunderstorms raging down from the craggy massif are said to be the spawn of spells cast upon the land. It’s only natural then that long ago — when explanations of the unknown spun readily from superstitions — the locals sought to protect themselves from the terrors of black magic.

Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Thanks to a wanderslusting bull, St. Valentin Chapel came to stand as more than a place of worship, but also as a guardian against the dark. An age-old legend tells of a bull roaming the sleepy hills of the chapel making a fortuitous discovery: a bell buried in the hillside. The bell, now known as the “The Bull of San Valentino” was hung in the spire. The witches of Schlern came to fear the bell as when it tolls it breaks their spell of storms.

Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, we did not encounter any stormy weather during our visit thus did not get to hear the bell toll. But we did come across a cat creeping around the chapel. Clearly, a Schlern witch waiting to wreak havoc on wretched souls.

Cat at St. Valentin Chapel — A Witch of Sciliar or just a cat? Those eyes say it all.

⇒ READ MORE: Hiking Where Witches Once Roamed in South Tyrol

How to Reach St. Valentin Chapel

A variety of trails can lead you to St. Valentin Chapel including one from the town of Castelrotto that takes about an hour to walk. However, we recommend visiting the chapel either before or after spending a day trekking the Alpe di Siusi.

Near a parking lot located in the heart of Seis is a brick-paved trail that winds up the hillside toward the chapel. After a 5-minute walk, you’ll come across another path carved under a row of trees that brings you to the chapel steps. To find the initial trail in Seis, simply follow the signposts.

Once on the trail, you cannot miss the chapel unless you’re entirely consumed by the enormity of the Siusi Alp storming upward from the forested slopes. Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Unfortunately, touring inside the chapel is not possible without making a special appointment. But the outside of St. Valentin with its sweeping views is so breathtaking it does not really matter.

After soaking in the sights, hop back on the paved brick and walk uphill a few more minutes to a farmstead. Here, you can watch South Tyrol’s famous Haflinger horses gracefully graze under a mature grove of apple trees.

A South Tyrolean beauty — the famous Haflinger horse — grazes below an apple tree under the guard of the St. Valentin Chapel.

If you’re visiting the chapel in the afternoon as we did, we recommend grabbing dinner in Seis. The village is easy to walk and you’ll find a number of establishments to pick from.

We ate at the Restaurant Pizzeria Zum Woscht and delighted in pizza accompanied by a bottle Lagrein from Cantina Tramin. Afterward, we suggest visiting the parish church of Sciliar located on the edge of the village center. While not as scenic as St. Valentin Chapel, it possesses a peaceful Alpine cemetery that is well worth strolling through.

TAP TO SAVE ST. VALENTIN CHAPEL TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD

Unearthing Ancient Secrets – Encounters with Ötzi the Iceman

By Kate & Vin 13 Comments

It’s not every day you come face to face with a man who is 5,300 years old. It’s even rarer to get an interview with him. But through the wizardry of a Ouija board, endless billows of incense and ample pours of South Tyrolean wine we were able to go for a hike in the spirit world with Ötzi the Iceman.

If his name doesn’t ring a bell, you may have been entombed in a block of ice the last 28 years. In 1991, a couple of hikers stumbled on a sight only an archaeologist would love to see. Ötzi’s partial corpse surfaced from a melting glacier located at 10,530 feet in the Ötztal Alps of South Tyrol. At the time, it was thought he may have been a soldier from one of the world wars, but it was soon discovered he was a much, much older warrior.

This riveting interview reveals facts on Ötzi the Iceman in a way you will not find anywhere else. We found him to be pleasant, a bit gruff and a character with an Ice Age-size sense of humor.

In the end, we dive into how you can visit Ötzi in Bolzano. If you want to speak with him yourself, we can make that happen too. For a small fee and a couple of cases of Lagrein we will gladly serve as your spiritual medium.

From the Lips of Ötzi

Without further ado, here’s our candid conversation with the coolest man to ever walk Earth:

Throne & Vine: You have been “free” from your icy tomb for almost 30 years now. That must have been liberating after thousands of years.

Ötzi: To be honest, my situation isn’t much different today than it was 10,000+ feet up the mountain. Although I have to say Bolzano is a lovely town. It’s amazing when you think about it, but when they discovered my body, new technologies had to be invented to continue my preservation. I am now kept in a specially designed, ice-freezing cold chamber that mimics the climatic conditions of the glacier where I was found. The temperature of the chamber is kept precisely at a frosty 21.2 °F (-6°C ) with 99% humidity. Two other cold chambers with the same design also exist.

Throne & Vine: Wait a second, why do you need two additional chambers?

Ötzi: One additional chamber is for performing scientific research on my mummified body. The other is located at the Bolzano hospital. In the event, there was some unforeseen power failure at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, I could be rushed to the hospital to be “saved”. Which is kind of ironic since I am already dead.

Throne & Vine: Ah yes, that is a funny way to look at it. Your mummified body is the oldest ever found in Europe. How did it manage to survive for so long?

Ötzi: I like to think I had something to do with it, but to be frank the only reason my body is still around is pure luck. You see before dying I keeled over into a small gully bordered by massive boulders. It was snowing at the time so I was soon buried under a blanket of white. As the centuries turned, the Niederjoch Glacier crept over the gully entombing me in ice. Unbelievably, the boulders protected my body from being pummeled.

The discovery site of Otzi — The discovery site of Ötzi in 1991 (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

Throne & Vine: Scientists have determined you lived somewhere between 3239-3107 B.C. during the late Neolithic period. Are there any trends from back then that are still with us today?

Ötzi: Absolutely! That period gave rise to several notable innovations. For example, the wheel. It was invented in Slovenia, which is not too far from South Tyrol.

Throne & Vine: What about cuisine? Any dishes that are still popular?

Ötzi: Being that we did not have any grocery stores back in the day, we had to hunt and gather everything we ate. That meant a steady diet of red deer, wild goat and porridge made from grains. In fact, the hour before my murder I devoured some ibex meat. Travelers today can still savor this wild game and more when visiting mountain huts in South Tyrol. You’ll love it!

Throne & Vine: Um you said you were murdered? Care to elaborate?

Ötzi: I can’t say much per my legal team until the investigation is officially over, but yes I was slain with an arrow through my back. The arrowhead struck with such a force it broke my left shoulder. I bled out in a matter of minutes.

A few days earlier, I was involved in an altercation. A spirited scrap you could say. One that resulted in a deep cut in my right hand. A couple of hard blows on my noggin and a fracture to my left eye socket. If I had to guess, the lethal arrow came from the bow of that fella. That’s just speculation of course.

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: What kind of tools and weapons did you have to defend yourself against enemies and the elements?

Ötzi: Well I was always good with my fists, but you’d have to be a fool to trek through the Alps then without a survival kit. On my belt, I kept a flint stone dagger and the oldest medicine kit ever found.

Throne & Vine: You had a medicine kit?

Ötzi: That’s right. You see at the time of my death I was battling several ailments. Not a surprise really given I was in my mid-forties, which was quite old at the time.

One of the more annoying ailments I suffered was intestinal parasites. Nasty little buggers known as whipworms. I kept a couple of pieces of birch fungus threaded through strips of hide. Our ancestors knew this fungus was quite toxic to the whipworms so I ingested it as necessary.

Otzi X-Ray Display — The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology includes a touchscreen display that visually presents fascinating facts on Ötzi.

Throne & Vine: What else did you bring on your journey?

Ötzi: My most prized possession was my copper-bladed axe. Until it was found next to my corpse, no one believed we had developed the skills yet to forge such a beauty. It’s 99% pure copper. A true masterpiece in metalwork and the only one of its kind left in the world.

The copper came from hundreds of miles away in a region called Tuscany. The blade was cast in a mold and hammered into cutting shape. I then fixed it to a wooden shaft, carved from a yew tree, using leather straps and tar to hold it in place. It was still intact when discovered.

The copper used the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions. — The copper blade used in the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions.

Since copper axes were rare and valuable in my time, only held by men of high status, it’s puzzling as to why my murderer didn’t snatch it after felling me. Seems like a clue the investigators should consider.

I also carried with me a longbow, arrows and a quiver. The bow was crafted from a yew tree as well. She was a work in progress though. Was really hoping to her have done before trekking up Similaun mountain. Perhaps you’d be talking with a different “Iceman” today if that was the case. Anywho, the bow was taller than me to allow for shots up to 150 feet away. I’m 5′ 2″ tall and the bow ran 5’9″. My quiver held 14 arrows in total, but only two were finished.

The quiver was made from the hide of a roe deer and the arrows from viburnum wood. Like my dagger, the arrowheads were made of flint. Speaking of my dagger, you can actually purchase a killer replica of it. The Ötzi knife makes a great gift for the hunter or history lover in your life. Sorry for the shameless plug.

By the way, among the most important items I carried was fire.

Throne & Vine: How does one carry fire? Assume you didn’t have matches.

Ötzi: No matches. I had something better. I made a round container by rolling the bark of a birch tree. Inside, I kept charcoal embers wrapped in maple leaves from my last fire. The leaves kept the embers alive so to speak. Whenever I needed a fire to stay warm or to cook meat all I had to do was fan the embers. In a matter of seconds, I had a flame.

Throne & Vine: The weather in the Alps can be unforgiving. How else did you stay warm? What did you wear for clothing?

Ötzi: Well I was quite a fashionable man back in the day. What you might consider a “lumbersexual” today. The difference being I actually know how to use an axe. My attire came from multiple animals. This prevented me from getting cold and wet.

On my head, I sported a bearskin cap that I won in an arm wrestling match. My coat ran down to my knees and consisted of sheep and goat hides stitched together with animal tendons.

Otzi bearskin hat — The bearskin cap found near the body of Ötzi. It included chin straps to secure it against high mountain winds (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

My legs were also covered in sheep and goat hides supported by a calfskin belt. Instead of underwear, I wore a loincloth made from sheep hide and kept together by my belt.

Throne & Vine: Did you have any kind of special footwear?

Ötzi: I certainly did. I wore primitive shoes consisting of deer hide stitched to the outside of netting made from lime tree bast. I stuffed grass under the netting for warmth. When my feet got wet, I just replaced the grass. The sole of my feet walked on the soft fur of the deer hide. I secured the shoes to each foot using string.

Throne & Vine: We heard you also sport several tattoos. Is there a story behind them?

Ötzi: Yeah my body is riddled with tattoos. I lost count, but supposedly scientists found 61 on my corpse. These had nothing to do with looking cool or tough. My bearskin cap does that on its own. My tattoos were for therapeutic purposes. Many of them are located near my joints such as my wrist and ankles. Back then we treated tattooing as an early form of acupuncture.

A scientist examining Otzi. — A scientist examining the body of Ötzi (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology/EURAC/Samadelli/Staschitz).

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: A major motion picture was recently released re-imagining your life and death. What are your thoughts on it?

Ötzi: Loved it! The movie “Iceman” is a spectacle all should see. Sure Hollywood takes some liberties with my story, but the settings and costumes are spot on when it comes to showing what life was like 5,300 years ago. My only gripe is that Brad Pitt should have played me. We share the same tattoos after all.

Throne & Vine: What is it like to be one of the greatest scientific discoveries of all time?

Ötzi: I’d prefer to have never been found. When glaciers melt, the world changes.

Otzi & Ibex — Weapons found near Ötzi indicate he was an avid hunter. His last meal was ibex. Consumed just hours before his death.

Throne & Vine: Point taken. We’ve heard you called Ötzi the Iceman, Frozen Fritz and even Similaun Man. Do you have a favorite?

Ötzi: Any of those are fine. Doubt anyone could pronounce my real name. And I don’t have a clue how to spell it.

Throne & Vine: What else do you want people to know about you?

Ötzi: I love getting visitors. Everyone visiting South Tyrol needs to come by the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano. My body and belongings are there for all to see, as well as exhibits detailing more about my life, death and discovery. You can stand eye-to-eye with me thanks to an incredibly detailed 3D model of what I looked like thousands of years ago. The museum also covers how modern science has unearthed all of my secrets so far. But I promise I still hold more (gives a good belly laugh).

Throne & Vine: We can’t agree more. All should take the time to see the museum. Do you have any final words for our readers?

Ötzi: Yeah, stay frosty…like me.

How to Visit Ötzi the Iceman

Seeing Ötzi at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology should be a part of your day when visiting Bolzano. More than 5 million people from all over the world have walked through the museum since its opening in 1998.

The museum is world class immersing you into the world of Ötzi through novel displays and multimedia exhibits. Plan on 1-2 hours to walk through the museum.

When you reach the window to peer into Ötzi, the sight of his actual mummified body is exhilarating and humbling at the same time. We came away with a new perspective on the history of mankind.

See Ötzi up close at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano.

The displays include English descriptions so you will not have to muscle through deciphering German or Italian phrases if that is a concern. The museum also houses other fascinating findings revealing a complete archaeological history of South Tyrol.

Like all of Bolzano’s stunning sights, it’s easy to reach the museum on foot. It is near the historic heart of Bolzano off Museumstraße street just past the famous Piazza delle Erbe — a centuries-old outdoor marketplace full of fresh goodness.

We highly recommend a guided tour as you will undoubtedly have questions about Ötzi that arise as you go through the museum. To ensure one is available, you will need to make a tour reservation request in advance.

If you decide not to participate in a guided tour, we still recommend purchasing your tickets online before visiting the museum.

Another adventure you may want to consider while in South Tyrol is hiking to the glacier where Ötzi was discovered.

PIN TO SAVE ÖTZI TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD!

We like to give special thanks to Selita Corradini for leading us on an exceptional tour of the Ötzi exhibit. Her enthusiasm for Ötzi is contagious!

A Swirl with Antiquity – Visiting the Abbey of Novacella

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only one can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world. Nestled just to the north of South Tyrol’s oldest town lies the Abbey of Novacella (also known as “Abbazia di Novacella” in Italian and “Kloster Neustift” in German).

This cultural treasure near Brixen was founded in 1142 — more than 875 years ago. It is among the most stunning historic destinations in South Tyrol. A symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid rolling vineyards and forested slopes.

Anyone admiring the Abbey of Novacella, from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The monastery boasts a labyrinth of structures, courtyards and walls showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo character from various epochs.

The history of Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Wandering the Vines of Novacella

We arrived at the Abbey of Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

Neustift Monastery Castle — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbey of Novacella.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks.

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery.

We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Abbey of Novacella Winery Vineyards — The vineyards of the Abbey of Novacella tumble down slopes to the foot of the monastery. Ancient dry stone walls ease the steepness and act like a furnace for the vines during the cool evenings.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of the Abbey of Novacella (officially labeled as “Abbazia di Novacella” in your wine shop) are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle “it’s better to have less but good”.

Elias Holzer and Kate discussing Novacella wines — Novacella sommelier, Elias Holzer, explaining the winemaking principles of the Abbey of Novacella (also commonly known as Neustift Monastery). Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast from the historic builings.

Following this tenet has guided Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. Novacella began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Admiring the historic Abbey of Novacella garden (also known as Neustift Monastery) — Admiring the natural splendor of the Abbey of Novacella garden.

We wandered on until overlooking the historical gardens of Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess gingko trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

Becoming One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land bearing virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Novacella expanded their operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

The winery of Abbazia di Novacella lies beneath our feet. — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us.

According to Elias, Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” Novacella even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water to precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

Abbazia di Novacella Wine Production — Elias shares how Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touch screen interface, Novacella sets the temperature of its stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

A Stroll Through the Ages

We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbey of Novacella Church Ceiling — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbey of Novacella church is among the finest in South Tyrol.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Striking Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

Towards the end of World War II all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Abbey of Novacella Wunderbrunnen — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean breads.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born from the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an every-day wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Elias promised that to taste it once, is to remember it forever. He was absolutely right.

Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to the Abbey of Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

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A Halo of Ruin – Exploring the Castles of Eppan

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

Three castles, one hike? Every castle hunter should be so lucky. That was our first thought after discovering a halo of castles forming a stunning hike called “Three Castles Walk” in Eppan / Appiano, South Tyrol.

We had just arrived at Weingut Donà for a multi-day romantic adventure along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. The Hocheppan Castle perched high above our villa apartment caught our eye immediately. How could it not? It loomed from a rocky ledge along a sheer mountain wall. From where we stood far below, this 12th-century stronghold looked to be a marvel of the most medieval kind.

Over the Hills and Far Away

We considered setting out on the Three Castles Walk from Weingut Donà, but opted to drive up the mountain a bit to a nearby village called Missiano. Starting from here gave us the best chance of visiting all three castles. Plus, from the parking lot, we could follow well-marked signs pointing the way up to our first castle stop.

On a steep hill above the parking lot sat an enticing looking church. We made a mental note to visit it if we had time after consuming the three castles. South Tyrol can be joyfully exhausting for curious souls like us. It teems with such intriguing sights making it a land where one could explore endlessly.

A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

We began the Three Castles Walk along a paved road, but were soon enveloped by vineyards as we ascended the foothills of Mondelo mountain range. Hocheppan Castle teased us from afar. But each step offered us an ever-widening view of the valley below.

Jagged peaks of the Dolomites soared from the horizon beyond Bolzano. The infamous Witches Mountain (Sciliar / Schlern) cut into the sky like a gravestone just above the molten gold of leaves still clinging to the vines. It was a sight of pure South Tyrolean splendor.

All Along the Watchtower

Eventually, the vineyards became woodland and we found ourselves in a shroud of trees. The path steepened in the forest, but we came across several benches to catch our breath. We were about to turn a final corner to Hocheppan Castle when we happened to glance behind us. A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

Hocheppan Castle Chalk Tower — The 12th-century watchtower of Hocheppan Castle.

Veering off the main path, we hopped through the woods until finding another trail to the tower. Within 5 minutes we were at the foot of a sign reading “Kreideturm” (Chalk Tower). We darted up to the hill crest where the tower stood. Its appearance was rather austere. The tower looked like a poor man’s skyscraper. We discovered it was erected in the late 12th century as a watchtower for Hocheppan Castle. The king’s guard would ignite a chalk fire at the top of the tower to signal incoming danger.

We were not able to find a way into the tower so we moved on after thoroughly exploring the area. Walking through the forest back to the castle path, we came across a ghostly white face staring at us between the trees. We stood frozen. The face moved. Two horns flashed. Then the figure turned revealing a body much like a deer except it wasn’t. We watched with fascination as two chamois lightly floated over the forest floor seemingly without a care.

Chamois in the woods — Ghosts in the forest. Encounters with chamois while hiking to Hocheppan. Can you spot the second one?

At the Gate of Hocheppan

Twenty minutes later we finally came to the crumbling walls of Hocheppan Castle. Below us was a sweeping view that cemented why this fortress was built at this height. The castle itself is a remarkable ruin. Both a romantic and fierce sight at the same time. A tall bergfried looms from the castle’s heart, a medieval architectural relic that is rare in the Alps.

Once the mightiest stronghold in South Tyrol, Hocheppan came to crown the mountain around the year 1130. It sits at more than 2,000 feet and was the ancestral seat of the Counts of Eppan — sworn enemies to the Counts of Tyrol to the north. Given the name of the region you can guess who ultimately won.

Since the castle was closed for the season we were not able to wander whatever was left of its once kingly halls. Nor were we able to admire its famous chapel, which contains priceless ancient frescoes that paint a vivid picture of life during the Middle Ages.

Even though abandoned for more than 500 years, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been.

As we were alone at the castle, we sat silently on a bench admiring its form against the autumn sky. But we were not as alone as we thought. A cat crept up to our feet. She purred loudly nuzzling against our legs…clearly longing to be held. Who were we to argue? After coddling the cuddly furball, we set her free. She led us to the other side of the castle. No doubt its throne belonged to her as she was not in any way lost.

Castle Hocheppan / Appiano — Upon our arrival at Hocheppan Castle we were greeted warmly by the queen.

Hocheppan Castle Cat — As all castle visits must end, we bid farewell to the queen per the royal custom of South Tyrol.

To Boymont & Beyond

A sign on the path pointed us toward the second castle on our hike: Boymont. The trail took us down on a rocky ravine that we feared meant a steep climb at some point. Sure enough. Stairs built along the sheer cliff edge scaled the other side of the ravine. We sweated our way up the steps. The trail then snaked up a bit further before dropping us off at the door of Boymont Castle.

Boymont Castle is another ruin from centuries past. Its stone facade is quite different from Hocheppan. Boymont Castle wears a more reddish hue rather than gray and its decorative windows, with their arches and stone pillars, speak to an early Gothic style.

The Counts of Eppan built Boymont Castle in the 13th century. But they were not the first to reside on this castle hill. Archaeologists have found remnants from prehistoric times.

Boymont was not of military importance — serving as a luxurious residential manor instead. This is quite evident by its uncommon medieval form. Even though abandoned for more than 500 years after an arsonist set fire, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been. We peeked at the castle’s courtyard through an iron gate. It was magnificent. Definitely a place we will be returning to enjoy a South Tyrolean gem at its wine tavern.

Boymont Castle Windows — Admiring the early Gothic style windows of Boymont Castle.

We found the castle’s windows particularly fascinating. Peering through them long ago must have been exhilarating. Despite the fortress being in ruin, it was easy to picture its storybook past.

The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

After exploring all four corners of Boymont, we soaked in the panorama from the mountain’s edge. Steeples and tiled roofs colored the valley floor between sweeping swaths of vineyards and orchards. The sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. The third castle on the walk tempted us from some far off crag, but we saved conquering Castel Korb for another day. Being caught in the dark in a land haunted by legends was not how either one of us sought to spend the night. Besides we knew there was a bottle of wine waiting for us at Weingut Donà.

Once back at the villa apartment, we cleaned up and enjoyed a couple of glasses of Vernatsch before venturing to Bolzano for a feast at The Laurin Restaurant. Dining at a venue named after a royal legend seemed like the only appropriate way to end a day among regal ruins.

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

The best time to embark on the Three Castles Walk is obviously when the castles are open. However, we found having the trails and ruins to ourselves during the off-season especially memorable. Surprisingly, we lingered longer around each castle longer than we may if they had been open. The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

If you are visiting South Tyrol during summer and much of spring or fall you will be able to experience everything Hocheppan Castle and Boymont Castle offer. Hocheppan is open from early April to early November. It can be visited daily from 10 am to 6 pm excluding Wednesdays. Tours are available in English.

Boymont Castle is typically open from late March to early November. Hours are from 11 am to 5 pm every day except when shuttered on Mondays.

Both castles serve traditional South Tyrolean food and drink if you wish to sip and eat among the same stones as knights and kings.

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Wander the Mountain Top

Explore the Charms of Chiusa

When to Visit the Sabiona Monastery

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Meeting the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen

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Getting to Tramin

Touring the Sun-Graced Treasures of Tramin

Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta

The Church of St. Jakob

The St. Valentin Church and Cemetery

Discovering the Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter

Pioneers of Alto Adige

An Inspired Portfolio

Tasting Tramin and Beyond

Visiting J. Hofstätter Wine Estate

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2. Trek the Marlinger Waalweg

3. Storm the Lebenberg Castle

4. Experience the Brandis Waterfall

5. Summit the Hill of St. Hippolyt Church

6. Contemplate the Gardens & Wine of Kränzelhof Winery

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Restaurant Stadele

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A Throne Amid the Vines

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From the Lips of Ötzi

How to Visit Ötzi the Iceman

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Wandering the Vines of Novacella

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

Becoming One with the Mountain

From the Vine to the Glass

A Stroll Through the Ages

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

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Over the Hills and Far Away

All Along the Watchtower

At the Gate of Hocheppan

To Boymont & Beyond

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

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