South Tyrol Historic Sights

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders

Updated: May 30, 2022

Villanders is a thousand-year-old mountain village blessed with heavenly views of the Dolomites and the vast beauty of Valle Isarco (Eisack Valley). Discover why the golden light of autumn is the idyllic time to explore its cobbled streets and chestnut-ragged trails.

The first signs of Villanders (also known as Villandro) emerged on the sun-seduced slopes of Villanderer Berg mountain more than 6,000 years ago. Archaeological findings indicate an ancient community thrived on the mountainside.

The hunters and gatherers of our Neolithic past must have found the fertile Villanderer Berg a steady feast for their flint-tipped spears and grass-woven foraging baskets. Or perhaps they simply stayed for the view.

It is utterly breathtaking after all. The Dolomites roar beyond the valley on the southern horizon.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 2 — The Sella and Sassolungo massifs loom mightily from across Villanders.

When searching for autumn hikes in South Tyrol, we came across Villanders and like our Stone Age ancestors were smitten by what the mountain offers. History lovers will find the area richly rewarding and nature addicts will be thrilled by the bounty of the landscape. Plus, the centuries-old chestnut trees dotting the mountain make this corner of Valle Isarco ideal for gourmet enthusiasts partaking in South Tyrol’s 5th season: Törggelen.

Villanders offers a multitude of hiking trails to choose from. We opted for a hike that would carry us over alpine meadows and through forests to the historic Dreikirchen (Three Churches) near Barbian (Barbiano). These three small wood-steepled churches date to the 12th and 15th centuries. They are located next to Gasthof Messnerhof, making this an idyllic adventure for those seeking an easy hike paired with delicious food and drink.

Through the Famous church alley

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Our hike began in the old-world heart of Villanders. The early morning sun bathed the village’s patios and balconies in a warm yet crisp golden light that only October can kindle.

We followed a cobblestone road through a narrow alley known as Kirchgasse (church alley). It led us past the historic Steinbock Manor & Restaurant (Ansitz Steinbock), a castle once home to the Lords of Villanders. The castle sits in the village center wearing centuries of utter romantic ruin. So much so that it inspired the renowned Tyrolean painter, Franz Defregger, to portray the Steinbock residence in his masterpiece: “The Last Call to Arms”.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 4 — The tempting entrance to the restaurant at Ansitz Steinbock.

On the other end of the alley, two church bell towers gilded by the sun greeted us with spires piercing the blue sky. The towers belong to the Church of St. Stephan and the Church of St. Michael. The Church of St. Michael is the noticeably older of the two having first been documented in 1234. It possesses a remarkable cemetery unlike any other in South Tyrol. The tombs and wrought-iron crosses lie in such a way the dead always face the rising sun.

The parish church of St. Stephan was built from 1517 to 1521. Inside are striking works of art including the Madonna del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), a cherished baroque piece from 1700 that is carved from wood and holds 15 round oil paintings of the Madonna. Another valued oil painting in the church, also from the 1700s, depicts the stoning of St. Stephan. It was painted by Franz Sebald Unterberger, a famous artist from nearby Brixen.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 5 — The Church of St. Michael possesses one of the most beautiful cemeteries in South Tyrol.

However, the most unique work of art in St. Stephan is a stained glass window dating to the early 1500s. Next to the Madonna, it portrays the patron saints of miners, Daniel and Barbara. Beneath the saints are miners busy at work on the Villanderer Berg.

Villanders is home to the oldest mine in Europe. Silver and copper among other minerals were harvested from the mountain as far back as the 12th century.

Hiking the Dreikirchenweg

Behind the Church of St. Stephan, we ascended stone steps up a slope to the Three Churches Trail (Dreikirchenweg). Following the path, marked as no. 4 on signage, we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

We found their swooping canopies and massive trunks weathered by centuries of Alpine wind and sun especially enchanting. Sitting beneath their leafy cover with the sun’s rays sprinkling through was next to divine. The idyllic setting to read a book or simply study the peaks of the Dolomites far across the valley before nodding off into a gentle slumber.

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Moving on we encountered a pasture hidden by a forest. Within cows and South Tyrol’s celebrated Haflinger horses grazed together. Upon spotting us the horses galloped abruptly to our feet.

Whether they were anticipating a handout of apples or chestnuts, we did not know. But we were not about to share such delectable treats as they were not ours to give. Disappointed by such stingy hikers they quickly moved on.

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After an hour or so of hiking, the path descended into a hardwood forest. When we emerged from the shady cover we came to a paved road. A sign pointed us to continue along the pavement as it curved through the side valley until reaching another road snaking up through a stand of larches.

On the other side, we found the Dreikirchen perched in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom. The churches reside in the hamlet of Bad Dreikirchen, which sits almost due north of the village of Barbian.

Visiting the Three Churches

Mystery still shrouds the Three Churches. No one knows why the builders huddled them together. Nor who the builders were or why they chose such an isolated location.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 8 — The trail to the Dreikirchen is well marked from beginning to end.

The oldest, St. Gertrude, was built in 1237. Well-preserved Gothic frescoes and Baroque shrines adorn its interior — leading you to an altar where a statue of St. Gertrude stands between candles below a scene of the Crucifixion.

The second church, St. Nicholas, came shortly after the first was built while the third church, St. Magdalene was erected in 1470. Some believe the churches were established as shrines as they lie near pre-Roman healing springs. Perhaps medieval Christian worshipers sought to replace an ancient pagan sanctuary dedicated to the three goddesses of springs.

A Delicious Stop at Gasthof Messnerhof

The Three Churches are not left open, but you are welcome to retrieve the keys kept by the owners of the neighboring Gasthof Messnerhof. This rustic farm inn offers three rooms for guests interested in an agriturismo experience.

In addition, they have a restaurant available to hikers that offers traditional South Tyrolean fare whipped up from their organic farm. Virtually every dish on the menu is rooted in Gasthof Messnerhof’s backyard. From the beef to the speck to the vegetables, jams and juices.

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As we were making sure to leave room for a Törggelen feast later in the evening, we only ordered a plate of Kaiserschmarrn, a powder-sugared pastry dish served with a homemade blackberry jam. We devoured this tasty treat with a couple of glasses of Kerner, one of our favorite white wines from South Tyrol.

Rambling Back to Villanders

After relaxing at Gasthof Messnerhof, we hopped back on the trail and began our return to Villanders. Like all hikes in South Tyrol, when you trod the same trail in the opposite direction you are rewarded with an entirely new perspective of the landscape and mountains.

While we were enamored with the massive chestnut trees on the way to the Dreikirchen, the Villanderer Berg’s apple trees stole the show on the return. The golden light of autumn made them shimmer as ornaments hung at Christmas.

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Whether simply admiring them dangling from a tree branch or letting one delight our mouths with its juiciness, South Tyrol’s apples never fail to make our hiking adventures more enjoyable. Even if the mountains suddenly vanished, we would still visit the region to savor the fruited orbs.

Where to Stay in Villanders

Villanders offers several accommodation options perched across the mountainside. If you like the idea of staying in the village itself, then we recommend Ansitz Steinbock. As mentioned earlier, this historic building is situated in the heart of Villanders. In addition to its wonderful gourmet restaurant tucked in centuries-old Stubem, the hotel features 12 luxury suites.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 11 — Soaking in the views from Schweiggerhof’s balcony.

If you would prefer to stay somewhere that is more pastoral than medieval, then consider the Schweiggerhof. We loved this family-owned alpine farm. It is ideally located within walking distance of Villanders. Its holiday apartments offer sweeping views of the Dolomites and are tastefully designed with a rustic modern vibe.

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Promenading in Merano: Italy’s Most Enchanting Walk

Updated: April 10, 2022

Merano, Italy is a walker’s paradise. Discover why you will adore strolling the many scenic promenades winding through and around this 700-year-old jewel of South Tyrol.

IMAGINE MEANDERING PAST dramatic Alpine scenery that tumbles into lush Mediterranean landscapes ripe with vineyards, orchards and palms — all held under the spell of mountain-hung castles, spiring steeples and the wooing Italian sun.

Sound entrancing? Welcome to the promenades of Merano.

These soul-soothing walks are blessed from mountain peak to mountain peak with so much rich history and natural splendor you could wander them from dusk to dawn never tiring of its beauty. That’s why we return to them on nearly every visit to South Tyrol.

In this post, we show you how to enjoy Merano’s Passer, Summer, Gilf and Tappeiner Promenade (also known as Tappeinerweg) from beginning to end. As you’ll see, whether visiting in spring, summer or fall, Merano ravishes your senses no matter the season.

Mountainside in Merano

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Merano famously basks in 300-days of sunshine a year, but a rainy mist greeted us on our first visit. October clouds hung stubbornly low in the afternoon sky.

However, this unexpected gloom did not dampen the sight of Hotel Partaneshof, our home for the next few days. Its inviting chalet-like character would have charmed us even in a storm.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offered us an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona earlier in the week.

Garni Partaneshof Hotel — The Hotel Partaneshof is ideally situated for visiting Merano…and providing a front-row seat to stunning sunsets.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of Weissburgunder from the Partaneshof cellar. After traveling a better part of the day, unwinding with a glass of vino sounded better than unpacking.

Our room came with a balcony bestowing a wide-open view of South Tyrol’s Texel Mountains. We lounged back in chairs and savored the panorama. The sun arrived right on cue. If there was a better place to sit and ponder how to spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was perfect.

Prior to arriving, we read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade (also called Tappeinerweg and Passeggiata Tappeiner) — a popular 3+ mile footpath offering sweeping views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures posted, we agreed. Besides, a long, carefree walk amid the Italian Alps was a natural remedy after a day hunkered in a car.

The next morning we woke up early anxious to discover Merano. We ate a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast comprising mountain-smoked speck, freshly baked bread and Alpine yogurt topped with local berries. While it was tempting to linger in the heavenly sunlight pouring over the terrace, the desire to explore kept us moving.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 16 — The **Hotel Partaneshof** as seen from the Tappeiner Promenade high above.

We were uncertain how to begin our walk on the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running north above Merano along the face of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know the path loomed several hundred feet up the mountainside hugging the hotel.

The map noted multiple places to enter the promenade, but Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town. Taking this route would allow us to experience nearly all of Merano’s promenades. She suggested first roaming the Passer Promenade then crossing the Passer River to the Summer Promenade. From there, connecting with the Gilf Promenade and finally Tappeiner.

⇒ BOOK A STAY AT HOTEL PARTANESHOF HERE

The Passer Promenade

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River reveling along the Passer Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of the year but is especially delightful in the winter when it bathes in sunlight.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 17 — The magnificent Evangelical Church of Christ sits along Merano’s Passer River.

The first architectural marvel we came across was the Evangelical Church of Christ. Built in 1883, its spire strikes the sky like a mountain peak all its own. But even more impressive than its steeple was the grove of giant birch trees parading in front of the church. Their grand canopy swooped over the promenade as if wishing to cradle passersby.

We continued on past processions of radiant palm trees, jubilant flower beds and bustling riverside cafes and gelato shops until encountering another masterpiece of Merano — the Kurhaus. The largest Art Nouveau building in the Alps, the Kurhaus was constructed in the 1800s initially as a venue for aristocratic mingling.

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Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 19

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 20

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 21 — Merano’s Passer Promenade runs through the heart of Merano.

Today, it hosts concerts in addition to an array of cultural events from wine tastings to conventions. The ornate details and tall portico columns paint a vivid picture of what Merano must have been like when royals held sway over the land.

Just beyond the Kurhaus, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. Together, the light posts mark the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, a bridge beautified with a wrought-iron balustrade showcasing sunlit fleur de lis and grapevine motifs.

We crossed the bridge, pausing to appreciate the roaring river from both sides. Once across, we spotted the Summer Promenade beginning to our left.

But before venturing down it, the austere face of the 15th century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito caught our curiosity. Its bleak exterior amid the spectacle of Merano lured us in for a brief visit.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 22 — The 15th-century Church of Santo Spirito.

Inside, three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes conceived more than 700 years ago. These historical treasures, lit by candle flames, hauntingly held our gaze. We always find such places possessing alluring energy — where past and present seemingly harmonize in stillness.

The church was first built in 1271 by the will of Count Mainardo II, a ruler often regarded as the true founder of Tyrol. A flooding Passer river destroyed it in 1419, but the church was rebuilt in 1483 in its present form.

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The Summer Promenade

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”.

Empress Sissi Statue — A beauty for the ages. The statue of Sissi welcomes you at the start of the Summer Promenade.

Empress Elisabeth was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Sissi adored Merano. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. An early pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Summer Promenade in Merano — Merano’s Summer Promenade is a shady haven opposite its historic center.

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was cherished by Sissi. Thus it’s rather fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk. You can often find fresh flowers placed in her hands, a lovely adornment we are certain magically appear.

While the Passer Promenade bathed us in warm sunlight the Summer Promenade’s soaring sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into what appeared to be a forest found only in storybooks.

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Under the canopy, nature put on a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leaves. As we walked, the path gently sloped closer to the Passer. The river splashed rhythmically over rocks joining a choir of birds.

The Summer Promenade is not long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 24 — The 400-year-old Ponte Romano Bridge leads you to the Gilf Promenade.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the hefty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

We paused midway to again admire the river running underneath us. On the right side, a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge. Built in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

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The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned so is not open to visitors. But do not despair. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another fortress to visit is far from difficult.

The Gilf Promenade

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Passer and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward.

But before making the ascent, we took time to watch kayakers brave the icy waters below. Their deftness in negotiating the torrent of boulders bordered on mystifying.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 26 — The Gilf Promenade will make you think you wandered into the Garden of Eden.

Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The abundance of greenery around us was like walking into an open-air conservatory.

The sun sprinkled in illuminating untold luxuriant subtropical plants, sweetly-scented shrubs and even exotic cacti. Looking around it was quite clear: the much-lauded Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudest from the Gilf Promenade.

We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright from the opposite cliffside. The amount of color kaleidoscoping all over was overwhelming.

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After soaking in the sight, we walked on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork which included an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

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The Tappeiner Promenade

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and chain of snow-kissed mountains walling in the valley.

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The promenade was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. An advocate of fresh-air therapy for his patients, in 1891 he proposed creating a footpath above Merano. City officials enthusiastically embraced his idea and commissioned the trail’s development. Franz’s vision became reality on November 18, 1893, with the official opening of the “Tappeinerweg.” A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

In addition to the trail’s breathtaking panoramas, the Tappeiner Promenade is riddled with immaculately manicured flower gardens bedded amid stands of towering magnolias, cypresses, palmettos and other fantastical trees that look almost otherwordly.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 29 — Merano’s Powder Tower is well worth the climb.

The first historic sight we encountered on the Tappeinerweg was a crenelated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements, commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 30 — A sweeping panoramic view of Merano from the Tappeiner Promenade.

We continued along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steal a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired at many points throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. From this vantage point, we could discern all the details of its intricate clock and sundial.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 31 — The view of Church of St. Nicholas from the Tappeinerweg is epic.

Many medieval church towers throughout Europe often look nearly identical to one another; almost as if they were somehow bricked and stoned into existence by the same mason. The Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. It has a gorgeous character all its own. Whoever designed and oversaw its construction in the 13th and 14th centuries, should have their own page in the annals of great architects.

After several snap-happy moments with our camera, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels, stately villas and restaurants tempting us with outdoor seating overlooking Merano. We soon came to a side path leading us into the Kräutergarten (herb garden).

On many occasions along the promenades of Merano, we encountered sweet scents ranging from roses to grapes to pine, but the Kräutergarten dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Tucked just below the Tappeiner Promenade, the garden is flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants weaved right into the landscape.

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We floated through inhaling rosemary, thyme and a plentitude of other pleasant aromas. The fragrant beds were calming; slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine with us. If there’s one place where you should linger longer in South Tyrol, it is on the Tappeinwerweg.

Eventually, the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grapevines now surrounded us from above and below.

Unlike the vineyards that stiffly dot rolling hills in Tuscany, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades. Trained on wood porticos, the foliage sweeps over over the landscape as if painted on with a brush.

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Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 36 — Dine with a jaw-dropping view. The **Saxifraga Restaurant** is a lush wonder perched in the middle of the Tappeiner.

South Tyrol’s vine-rivered slopes beneath snowy summits make its vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season flirts with frost, the vines radiate a riot of brilliant colors. The vineyards transform into leafy labyrinths gilded with ruby and gold. More so than any other time of year, they become a gift from Bacchus for hikers and wine enthusiasts alike.

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Paradise by Foot

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — The Brunnenburg Castle beckons walkers from a cliff north of the Tappeiner Promenade.

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Tyrol Castle tempted from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, the Brunnenburg Castle romanced us with its multi-turreted tower. Both castles looked as if a fairytale came to life on the mountainside.

But before adventuring to their gates, we came across an ivy-clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 37 — When you reach the end of the Tappeiner Trail, take a refreshing break at Cafe Unterweger.

We took a seat in Cafe Unterweger’s patio, which was hung like an ornate shelf on the face of the mountain. Below us, the bountiful Merano basin held our eyes. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. The castle trek could wait. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view, we had found just the right place for it.

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Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies in strollers to the elderly walking their dogs. As you can tell in this post, our favorite time to stroll the promenades is in the fall, but rest assured you will find them lovely any time of year. If you are visiting in autumn, consider timing your trip during the Merano Grape Festival.

If you are ready for an enchanting escape to Merano, discover our South Tyrol Travel Resources. You’ll receive comprehensive guides on how to get the most out of your adventures in South Tyrol and the Dolomites.

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Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 39

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol’s Wine Road

Updated: June 22, 2022

The mountainside village of Tramin will capture your heart with its vino-inspired vibe, age-old historic treasures and a festive spirit that’s as sweet as wine. Here’s how to visit this ancient beauty of South Tyrol’s Wine Road.

It is easy to visit South Tyrol and give all of your attention to the stony giants crowding the horizons. But strolling the cobbled village streets rivering its mountainsides can do as much to instill a sense of wonder as traversing any remote rocky trail.

Especially those along South Tyrol’s Wine Road, the oldest such road in Italy. Exploring these idyllic medieval hamlets rooted in the vine-riddled hills is like plugging into charging stations for the soul.

In this post, we uncover the romantic charms of Tramin (also referred to Tramin an der Weinstraße and Termeno), home to the most aromatic white wine in the world: Gewürztraminer. You’ll discover how to indulge in the village’s historic sights and its jubilant traditions.

Reaching Tramin

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Tramin (also known as Termeno) lies in the heart of the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Südtiroler Weinstrasse) just beyond the bright blue shimmer of Lake Caldaro. Whether coming from Bolzano to the north or Trento to the south, you can be in the village in less than 40 minutes.

As you approach, its old-world contours dawn beneath the sandy hues of the Mendola mountain ridgeline. Soon, Tramin’s towering parish church steeple welcomes you like a signpost noting: “Tranquility this Way ⇒”. Its Gothic character lines are unmistakable amid the lush Mediterranean foothills.

Once you arrive in the village, we recommend parking near the center to set out on foot. A free lot is located off Via Mindelheim, which places you right next to the official Tramin tourist office. It pays to stop in to pick up a map as well as discover any special markets and events taking place that may be of interest during your time in South Tyrol.

Touring the Treasures of Tramin

Tramin has roots thousands of years deep. Archaeological findings indicate settlements in the area as early as the time of Ötzi the Iceman.

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 42 — A veritable Eden of Italy, Tramin basks in more than 300 days of sunshine each year

However, Tramin as a village did not come to be until the Middle Ages. This medieval history is inescapable. Narrow alleys, stone archways and windows bedecked in flowers seem to greet you at every turn — making its historic roads enchanting to wander all on their own.

In addition, set along the cobblestones of Tramin are two stellar South Tyrolean wine estates that you should fit into your day. Elena Walch and J. Hofstätter offer exceptional wines that you can enjoy in their tasting rooms or while dining at their restaurants located onsite.

But before letting wine slow your pace, it’s perhaps better to see Tramin’s three main religious treasures first. These sites are priceless in their historical significance to South Tyrol.

Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 43 — The Parish Church of Tramin boasts the tallest Gothic tower in South Tyrol.

Not far from the heart of Tramin is the magnificent Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta, the towering symbol of the village. Founded in 850 AD, the church transports you to another time with intricate craftsmanship that has long since been discarded in our hurried age.

The addition of its iconic Gothic stone steeple occurred in 1492. At a height of 282 feet, it is the tallest tower of its kind in South Tyrol.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore.

Inside, you can admire Gothic frescoes depicting the martyrdom of the church’s patron saints as well as ornate altarpieces dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Joseph, St. Jacob and St. Sebastion.

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Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 45

The Church of St. Jakob

A bit further up the mountainside on a hilltop called Kastelaz resides another treasure of Tramin: the quaint Church of St. Jakob. A steep path from the village carries you to the church where you can admire some of the most impressive and unique medieval artwork in South Tyrol.

The St. Jakob Church was first mentioned in 1214. The church’s Romanesque frescoes from the 1200s are remarkably well preserved and among the oldest in Germanic Europe. The vivid depictions are utterly fantastical in form.

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 46 — Inconspicuous from the outside, the Church of St. Jakob is a medieval marvel seated on a supposed sacred site of Ancient Rome.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore. In addition, biblical characters such as the twelve apostles, Cain and Abel and a large Gothic fresco of fallen Goliath meeting his end at the hands of diminutive David grace the stone. There is simply no other church like it.

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 47 — The centuries-old frescoes of St. Jakob are among the most bizarre you will ever encounter.

Outside the church, be sure to soak in the sweeping views of Tramin and Lake Caldaro. From up here, it’s easy to see why the Ancient Romans also chose this lofty location as a place of worship. According to legend, a temple to the goddess Isis once stood where the church is today.

The St. Valentin Church and Cemetery

On the southern end of Tramin directly off the South Tyrolean Wine Road stands the St. Valentin Church and cemetery. First documented in 1276, this small church requires obtaining keys from the tourist office to enter. However, if you cannot obtain them for whatever reason you can peer through windows to see its interior.

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Adorning its walls are colorful frescoes in Venetian style from the late 1300s and early 1400s. Among them are a captivating Passion of the Christ and the retelling of the Legend of St. Ursula, the patron saint of educating young girls. She was sadly murdered with an arrow in 383 AD.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps.

Even if you do not tour the church, walking the St. Valentin cemetery rewards with stunning sights unfurled between stately cypress trees and sun-drenched palms.

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 49 — The hillside church and cemetery of St. Valentin overlooks the Adige Valley basin on the edge of Tramin.

If you plan to visit the St. Valentin Church, consider driving to it either before or after you have explored Tramin’s village center. You can reach the church in a matter of minutes by car versus embarking on a somewhat lengthy trek on foot.

Reveling in Tradition

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If you can time your visit to Tramin during one of its many annual events, you will be immersed in a thrilling cultural experience. These lively celebrations may even leave you feeling more festive than polishing off a bottle of its wines.

Wine lovers will definitely find revelry swirling about during the annual Tramin Wine Lane. This fall celebration occurs on a Saturday in late October beginning in the early afternoon until midnight.

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The festival takes place in the alleys of Tramin allowing you to sample a variety of locally produced wines while nibbling on roasted chestnuts and other seasonal delights. As you wander the alleys, you’ll encounter local groups performing traditional Tyrolean music and dance.

Not to be missed is the traditional Schuhplattler Group of Tramin. These energetic group of men clad in festive lederhosen stomp, clap and slap their way through the Wine Lane. It’s a raucous display of camaraderie that will leave you with a bigger grin than the wine you consumed. perfom

Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more.

If you have never watched such performances, enjoying them in the old-world atmosphere of Tramin is especially fascinating. The spirit of the event is infectious and will no doubt create a lasting fond memory of your time in South Tyrol. For more information on the Tramin Wine Lane, check out the event’s official page.

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Every other year during February is another unique event of Tramin known as the Egetmann Parade. This Carnival celebration occurs on Fat Tuesday and attracts thousands of spectators.

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 53 — For more than 45 years, the Traminer Schuhplattler has entertained revelers in South Tyrol.

The parade has a long history in Tramin with records indicating it occurred as far back as 1591. We have yet to participate in this notorious raucous custom but have heard it can be loud and brash with a good measure of harmless naughtiness flung from the floats. Certainly, a rousing tradition not to be missed if you are in South Tyrol in February.

Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 54 — A slapping good time! The Traminer Schuhplattler group entertains with a traditional Tyrolean folk dance.

Besides these events, Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more. To see a list of current happenings while planning your visit, scroll through Tramin’s event page.

Where to Stay in Tramin

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Beyond the sights and activities we covered above, Tramin is a biker’s paradise offering pedaling adventures through truly epic Mediterranean scenery crowned with Alpine vistas. With Mt. Roen looming over Tramin, hikers and bikers have plenty of elevation to explore as well.

Such an abundance of South Tyrolean goodness all in one area makes Tramin a great town to stay in. The uber-modern Hotel Traminerhof is conveniently located within walking distance of the village’s heart. Not only does the hotel allow easy access to all of Tramin’s charms, but it also caters to bikers with guided tours and provides all the amenities to immerse yourself in the benefits of Alpine wellness.

Weingut Dona Winery — Interested in knowing more about South Tyrol’s wine culture? Stay on the South Tyrolean Wine Road at small family-owned wineries like **Weingut Donà.**

If you’re looking for a dash of romance, consider staying along the South Tyrolean Wine Road at a boutique winery. Donà Winery (Weingut Donà in German), is a lovely family-owned estate placing you the in middle of vineyards tumbling beneath one of South Tyrol’s most spectacular castle ruins. The winery’s location is ideal for visiting Tramin and other sights along the South Tyrolean Wine Road.

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Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of South Tyrol's Wine Road 57

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob

Updated: December 18, 2021

The Church of St. Jakob offers one of the most awe-inspiring vistas in the Dolomites. Discover how to hike to the oldest and highest church in Val Gardena.

It is rather fitting that a church reachable by foot alone is consecrated to the patron saint of pilgrims and hikers. The Church of St. Jakob (also known as St. Jacob, Chiesa di San Giacoma and Dlieja da Sacun in Ladin) shines like a lantern hung above the steep evergreen slopes of Val Gardena.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 59 — A trail signpost showing the three languages spoken in Val Gardena: Ladin, German and Italian.

The oldest and highest church in the valley, the Church of St. Jakob is a late-Gothic style beauty brandishing a bell tower emblazoned with brilliant white stone. It sits at an elevation of more than 5,000 ft. — clearly once a guiding light to weary pilgrims from afar.

The church was built along an ancient road called “Troi Paian” or “Pagan’s Pathway”. This trade route dates to the Bronze Age and one time connected Venetia with South Tyrol’s Valle Isarco.

The exact date of the church’s founding is as knowable as a mountain lost in the clouds. Some historians believe it dates to the year 1181 due to a carving in the bell tower. However, the first mention of the Church of St. Jakob in an official document was in 1283.

Yet according to local legend, the church was built by the Counts of Stetteneck, who reigned in the late 13th century. The legend itself is quite entertaining.

Legend of the Golden Cup

Count Gebhard von Stetteneck of Val Gardena once went with his son Jakob (not the actual Saint Jakob) in search of a relative who allegedly lived with another noble in Santiago de Compostela, a city in northwestern Spain. This Spanish Count it is said had a beautiful daughter who immediately fell in love with the younger Count of Val Gardena. Jakob, however, took no notice of her affection much to the daughter’s dismay.

In revenge for the young Count’s disinterest in her, she secretly hid her father’s golden cup in Jakob’s luggage prior to his travel back to Val Gardena. When her father noticed the precious cup missing the following day he immediately sent his servants after Gebhard and Jakob at the urging of his daughter.

Upon catching up with the counts, the servants searched Jakob’s luggage and indeed found the missing cup. The servants demanded Jakob return to face their lord.

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Jakob well aware of his innocence did not hesitate to go with the servants. He told his father: “You know that I did not steal the cup, so help me God; go home, I will come soon.”

But when Jakob never returned, Gebhard became concerned and went back to the city of the Spanish count. How terrified he was when he saw his son hanging from the gallows in front of the city walls! The count had sentenced Jakob to death for the alleged theft of the cup.

When Gebhard came closer to the gallows, he saw his son was not dead at all, but alive! He rushed to the city judge demanding permission to take Jakob off the gallows. But the judge, who had just sat down at a table with his wife to enjoy a roasted chicken, said mockingly: “Your son is a thief and belongs on the gallows and, moreover, is already as dead as this chicken here in my pan!”

But then the roasted chicken rose and suddenly flew away! This miracle prompted the judge to rush to the gallows where he found the young Count of Val Gardena alive. He immediately proclaimed Jakob’s innocence allowing him to be lowered and returned to an overjoyed Gebhard.

In gratitude for this wonderful salvation, the Count, upon returning to Val Gardena, immediately set out to build the Church of St. Jakob with his son. It soon became a much-visited place of pilgrimage. So much so the church grew in great wealth and the people of Val Gardena used to say: “If you want to have a rich husband or wife, you must go to St. Jakob’s Church!”

What to See at St. Jakob

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Despite its relatively small stature, the Church of St. Jakob offers a number of wonders worth appreciating. First and foremost is its famous mountainside setting.

If you arrive at the church by descending the trail from Seceda, you will be rewarded with the sight of the church’s spire seemingly soaring over the crags of Mt. Sassolungo. A bench rests on the hilltop right above the church.

We recommend taking a seat to let the jaw-dropping scene steep your soul. And if you are single this is a good perch to spot any wealthy church patrons worth courting. May the legend of the golden cup be forever in your favor!

Inside St. Jakob

st. jakob church visit — The outside of St. Jacob is rather simple, but inside is a feast for the eyes.

While the exterior of St. Jakob is late-Gothic, its interior showcases a variety of architectural stylings from Romanesque to Baroque. On its walls, you can admire, as well as attempt to decipher, several frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries, some hopelessly faded and others remarkably vivid.

Passing through the church’s nave you will come to a fresco near the pulpit. This artwork depicts the legend of St. Jakob, who is perhaps better known as St. James the Great, one of the first apostles of Jesus.

His remains are reportedly buried beneath the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain — giving some credence to the Counts of Stetteneck being the founders of the church per the above legend. It’s interesting to note that the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is one of only three churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus, the other two being St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City and St. Thomas Cathedral Basilica in India.

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St. Jakob was also the first apostle to be martyred. In 44 A.D. Herod Agrippa, king of Judea, ordered him to be beheaded.

Also, next to the pulpit are oil paintings of the Virgin Mary from the 18th century. As you walk into the church’s sanctuary, you will pass beneath an arch filled with frescoes of five female saints including St. Mary Magdelene and St. Catherine of Alexandria.

The altar is classic Baroque. It beams with sky-blue columns surrounded by gold-gilded woodcarvings from Val Gardena. The altar oil painting depicts a unique nativity scene with a knight and an infant Jesus holding a globus cruciger (an orb surmounted by a cross) — symbolizing dominion over the world.

The St. Jakob Cemetery

Outside the church, enclosed by a stone wall, is a small cemetery. You should walk through this graveyard to admire the great care South Tyroleans take to beautify and honor those at rest.

A weathered yet gorgeous wood-carved wayside shrine greets you near the entrance. Throughout the cemetery, you will see additional woodcarvings and wrought iron crucifixes exemplifying the expert craftsmanship of the locals.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 63 — Top right: Kate studies the mural of St. Christopher on St. Jakob’s outer wall.

Also worth admiring are the late Gothic frescoes from 1450 on the south-facing wall of the church. They still possess remarkable color and detail. The most celebrated depicts St. Christopher with Jesus as a child perched on his shoulder.

Before departing the cemetery, duck into a tiny stone shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. On the wall to the left, you will see a painting of a fallen soldier along with a list of names, presumably of residents who gave their lives in battle.

How to Visit St. Jakob

We think the most rewarding way to visit the Church of St. Jakob is to hike down from the ridgeline of Seceda through the forest of Mt. Balest. See our guide to hiking Seceda for step-by-step directions.

If that sounds too challenging or time-consuming you can also reach the church by walking the Legend of St. Jakob Trail. This forested trail begins behind the parish church of S. Cristina — a charming town town less than 20 minutes from Ortisei.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 64 — St. Jakob Church is the heart of the Segra Sacun festival in October.

Plan on 2+ hours to walk to the church and back. If you are in South Tyrol in early October, you may want to consider timing your visit with a village festival called “Segra Sacun”.

We attended the Segra Sacun festival during our last visit to St. Jakob and had the opportunity to join an outdoor mass in front of the church. This traditional service was followed by a fun celebration offering local specialties, beer and wine.

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Visiting Tyrol Castle: Ancient Might of the Alps

Updated: April 14, 2022

Tyrol Castle has stood watch over South Tyrol for nearly 1,000 years. Here’s why you should see this majestic work of ancient might while visiting the region.

WHAT IS IT ABOUT CASTLES? Whether in a perpetual state of crumble or masterfully preserved to reveal life in the Middle Ages, they endlessly fascinate us. Their haunting beauty inspires awe as much as the legends born within.

With 800 castles rising throughout the mountains and valleys of South Tyrol, it’s hard to nail down one that impresses the most. But there is one who never fails to captivate us no matter how many times we encounter it: Tyrol Castle (also known as “Castle Tirol”, “Schloss Tirol” in German and “Castel Tirolo” in Italian).

Its imposing seat 2,000 feet above the valley floor demands your attention from even miles away. Enthroned in the 1100s by the Counts of Vinschgau, who later took title as the Counts of Tyrol, Tyrol Castle’holds some of the most important historical relics and artwork in South Tyrol. In fact, the faded frescoes of its chapel include the oldest known painting of the Red Eagle — South Tyrol’s revered coat of arms.

The Spell of Tyrol Castle

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A unique hallmark of Tyrol Castle is that depending on the temperament of the mountains or the hour of the season, the castle seemingly transforms before your eyes. It’s as if the fortress casts a spell of eternal enchantment on all who look upon its walls.

Tyrol Castle’s ever-changing persona, from hopelessly romantic to dreadfully tyrannical, is perhaps why we and so many others find this historic haunt endlessly alluring. For us, no other castle in South Tyrol conjures a spell quite like it.

No matter when you visit South Tyrol, you can experience this magic for yourself. In any season or hour, you will witness how Tyrol Castle looms with decisive command. The sight of the fortress will leave no doubt in your mind as to why it named an entire region and its people.

Speaking of its name, some historians indicate the word “Tirol / Tyrol” can be traced back to when the Roman Empire occupied the land. “Teriolis” was the given name of a Roman military outpost in northern Tyrol. Others speculate, that in the Dark Ages, Germanic tribes named the rocky outcropping Castle Tirol sits on “Tyr” in honor of a god they worshipped.

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The Views from Tyrol Castle

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As much as Tyrol Castle mesmerizes from the outside its grand views are equally enchanting. The sweeping panorama awaiting visitors illustrates why the fortress was founded at such a lofty height.

Visiting Tyrol Castle: Ancient Might of the Alps 69

Situated to the north of Merano, Tyrol Castle peers deep into the valley basin that stretches southward to Bolzano. On its western flank, the castle watches over the Vinschgau Valley, which zig-zags toward Switzerland and Austria.

Visiting Tyrol Castle: Ancient Might of the Alps 70

Invading armies from either direction would have been spotted well in advance of any threat. Enemies coming from the north would have had to cross the rugged Ötztal Alps — likely meeting the same fate as Ötzi the Iceman. And any marauders marching from the east would need to find a way to magically leap the Sarntal Alps.

Within Tyrol Castle

Inside the castle lies a treasure of archaeological finds including religious and pagan figures encircling the marble portals of the castle’s chapel. These are sculpted in Romanesque style from the 12th century.

The meaning of these carved marvels is still not entirely clear. Nevertheless, they are fascinating to study. Their ornate detail speaks to the superb craftsmanship of long ago.

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Walking through the chapel door feels like you are stepping into a room a thousand years wide. Faded religious frescoes dating to the 12th century colorize the gray stone walls.

Many are still hardly scarred by the ravages of time. They continue beautifying the chapel making one wonder how stunning the walls must have looked centuries ago.

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South Tyrol Coat of Arms — Remarkably well-preserved frescoes nearly a thousand years old still adorn Tyrol Castle including the oldest known depiction of the Red Eagle — South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

Above the chapel floor of Tyrol Castle looms a larger-than-life Crucifixion scene. Crafted in1330, it is one of the most impressive works of medieval art we have ever seen.

Steps in the chapel climb to the upper chamber where you can admire the detail achieved by the artist at eye level. You will see firsthand why these sculptures are a priceless treasure of South Tyrol.

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The castle is also home to the South Tyrolean Museum of History and Culture. The exhibits cover multiple levels in the castle and provide an intriguing overview of the history of South Tyrol from its earliest beginnings to the modern era.

The exhibit signs and summaries are in German and Italian, but visitors can checkout an audio guide that is in English. The museum tour lasts about 50 minutes.

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Hiking to Tyrol Castle

The only way to reach Tyrol Castle is on foot. Trust us, this is a good thing. The hike to its gates is unforgettable. If views of the castle and vineyards riddled around it do not steal your breath away then the Texel mountain group in the distance certainly will.

The Falknerweg leads you to Tyrol Castle.

When arriving at the area by car, we suggest parking in one of two public lots located in Dorf Tirol. From there, cross the street walking uphill along the sidewalk until coming to a sign designating the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This beautiful path takes you past hotels, restaurants and vineyards eventually winding along the edge of a deep ravine where you can admire the picturesque Brunnenburg Castle — once home to the famous poet Ezra Pound.

Before rounding a corner to the castle you will pass through a 260-foot stone tunnel built in the 17th century. The entire walk takes 20-30 minutes depending on how much you pause to snap pictures or simply savor the historical and natural beauty all around.

TIP: The castle can also be reached from Merano by walking the Tappeiner Promenade. This route takes 2-3 hours but is what we consider one of the prettiest walks in Italy. It is our favorite way to reach Tyrol Castle.

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When to Visit Tyrol Castle

Visiting Tyrol Castle: Ancient Might of the Alps 75 — Morning clouds lift off the mountainside revealing Tyrol Castle.

Tyrol Castle is open to the public from mid-March to early December. Visit the castle’s official website to confirm dates and hours. Admission fees are € 7 per adult. Children and senior citizens receive discounted rates.

If you visit the castle during one of the weekends in December when it is hosting its traditional Christmas market, you can enjoy the castle at no charge. Seeing it at this time of year is especially charming.

Autumn is also a special time to visit as a wine stand off the Falknerweg offers the season’s new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grapevines while gazing at the castle and beyond. Sounds a touch romantic doesn’t it? Afterward, treat yourself to a hearty South Tyrolean meal at Biergarten am Schlossweg — a panoramic beer garden nearby.

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A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle

Updated: March 1, 2022

Every trip to South Tyrol should include a wild excursion into its storied past. We share why the mountain-enthroned Trostburg Castle is one historic haunt not to miss.

IN A LAND teeming with more castles than anywhere else in Europe, it’s impossible not to wonder what the world was like when ruled from a throne. Especially when sweat begins beading on your forehead only 5 minutes into a grueling climb to one of South Tyrol’s most imposing mountainside fortresses.

The stone shackled road leading to Trostburg Castle snakes up from the village of Ponte Gardena (Waidbruck) in the lower Valle Isarco (Eisack Valley). It’s only a 15-minute hike, but the trudge to this mighty haunt of medieval prowess gives you a real appreciation for how people ages ago managed buns of steel without cheesy workout videos.

By the time you reach the entrance of Trostburg Castle, you nearly expect to be greeted by a knight named Sir Gluteus Maximus. Instead, what does greet you is pure awe. The utter grandness of the fortress up close is as breathtaking as the hike that leads you here.

Wildflowers & Cobblestones

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Looking up from the trailhead in Ponte Gardena, it’s tempting to become transfixed on reaching Trostburg Castle as quickly as possible. This is a mistake. The hike to the fortress is a gem all its own.

The old castle road inspiring you onward gifts hikers numerous swoon-worthy sights. You wander past Alpine meadows painted by the season, as well as through shade-friendly forests dotted with benches offering a chance for a contemplative rest.

At the bends of the sloping road, sweeping vistas materialize before you like theater curtains parting for a show. Pausing to inhale the views of the roaring Isarco River below are all you need to press on.

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 78 — Trostburg Castle enjoys a commanding perch of more than 2,000 ft.

Of course, if you are a photography enthusiast, these viewpoints are where you can do much more than take a brief break. The number of opportunities to capture Trostburg Castle framed in romance is countless. In fact, you may find this trek one of the most rewarding short adventures in South Tyrol.

Farm lovers are equally thrilled with the journey to Trostburg. Lying above the village of Ponte Gardena, directly off the castle road, is a charming farmstead that poetically illustrates the meaning of quaint.

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Here, you can make some new friends of the hoofed kind while whistling by. The panorama these animals enjoy might even make you wonder if being a jackass in South Tyrol isn’t such a bad thing.

As you continue hiking up the road, the imposing mystery of Trostburg Castle becomes less mysterious. A sign posted on the roadside tells the story of the stronghold. It is written in German, Italian and English.

King of the Mountain

The famous medieval poet, Oswald Von Wolkenstein, once called Trostburg home. Is he winking in this portrait? No, legend has it his right eye was lost during a childhood archery accident.

Trostburg Castle began towering over the Valle Isarco in the 12th century. Its building blocks were born from the boulders left behind by ancient glaciers and rivers once ravaging the land.

Exactly how long it took medieval masons to chisel these stones into castle-ready form, lift to lofty heights and mortar them into eternal rest on the mountain is not known.

Trostburg Castle exchanged overlords multiple times over the centuries. However, its most famous resident was Oswald von Wolkenstein — a beloved medieval poet and composer who penned odes about travel, sex and God long before Led Zeppelin did.

Trostburg was purportedly Oswald’s childhood home. Why he left such a majestic residence is beyond us, but Oswald eventually lodged his poetic soul at the Abbey of Novacella, an ancient monastery in Brixen that is today one of the oldest wineries in the world.

The castle served as the ancestral seat of the Wolkenstein family for nearly 600 years. Prior to their possession, Trostburg belonged to many prominent nobles including the Lords of Velturno, the Counts of Tyrol and the Lords of Villanders.

Roaming the Castle Grounds

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Upon reaching Trostburg Castle, we suggest walking about its grounds to see the fortress in all its grandeur. Admiring the castle from multiple vantage points allows you to peer into the past.

The aged stonework tells of the castle’s modifications, additions and fortifications over the centuries. Portions of Trostburg’s walls appear gray like an overcast sky while others seem burned by sun with tints of gold and red.

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 81 — Trostburg Castle sprawls over a rugged swath of the mountainside.

Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architectural contours and details are visible with every step as you wander by the stronghold itself and the other structures forging the castle complex. Indeed, the only sights you may encounter betraying the castle’s glorious past are the occasional tourist snapping a selfie or an automobile racing on a road in the valley far below.

INSIDE Trostburg Castle

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In classic castle fashion, entering Trostburg Castle demands walking through a massive arched door that makes you wonder if only the hand of God can open it.

Once inside the castle, you can marvel at faded frescoes gracing its courtyard walls. They appear almost graffiti-like in their randomness and subject matter.

Walking through the castle’s historic rooms and halls is where you can truly get lost in the craftsmanship of centuries past. They display artifacts and works of art spanning nearly a millennia.

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 83 — The walls of Trostburg Castle come alive inside.

The castle chapel of St. Anthony is curiously small and depicts moody religious scenes on its ceiling that are intriguing to ponder.

If you are a hunter, plan to linger in the castle’s large guest chamber. Here, murals showcasing hunting motifs impart clues to what a medieval hunt must have been like.

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A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 85

Especially impressive in the castle is the wood-clad walls and ceilings. These rustic adornments display elaborate details that compel you to strain your neck in study. The rich stucco art in the grand Knight’s Hall leaves you wishing royalty was in your blood.

A castle artifact we found particularly mind-blowing was the immense medieval wine press located in the castle tower. When we first saw the wine press we thought it to be a crude torture concoction meant to contort wretched souls in the most medieval way.

Alas, we were relieved to learn its only victims were plucked grapes. Torturing fruit to give up its sweetness for South Tyrolean wine is fine by us. The wine press is the largest in South Tyrol and employs a 36-foot long wood pressing level. This mass of lumber projects like a missile across the castle tower.

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 86 — Trostburg Castle holds the largest medieval wine press in South Tyrol.

In addition to being home to a number of nobles over the centuries, Trostburg Castle is also the official home to the South Tyrolean Institute of Castles (Südtiroler Burgeninstitut). A section of the castle is dedicated to hosting the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles. Here, you can study remarkable creations of true-to-scale models of 86 South Tyrolean castles.

How to Visit Trostburg Castle

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 87 — Trostburg Castle is a perfect excursion for those looking to embark on a short hike filled with history.

Fitting in a visit to Trostburg Castle is easy to do on your way into or out of Val Gardena. It’s impossible to miss looming above the A22 Autostrada.

If you are driving from Bolzano or Brixen, take the Val Gardena exit and head to Ponte Gardena. You will find plenty of public parking available near the castle trailhead in the heart of the village.

However, if you’re venturing into the Dolomites for a winter excursion, you will have to skip Trostburg. The castle is only open from the end of March to the end of October.

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 88

From your parking spot, follow signs pointing to Trostburg Castle. Take trail no. 1 as shown in the picture below.

Admission to Trostburg Castle is very reasonable: €8 for adults, €5 for kids from 6 to 14 years old and free for youngsters 6 years old and under. But the smart way to visit the castle, as well as a host of other sights in South Tyrol, is to obtain the Museumobil card. The card is €15-€34 depending on the duration of your stay and age. It gives you free access to 90+ museums and historical sights.

If you have worked up a thirst or appetite Trostburg Castle, consider making a 15-minute drive to the artist village of Chiusa (Klausen) located across the Isarco River. Tucked within this postcard-pretty town is one of South Tyrol’s finest craft breweries and taverns: Gassl Bräu.

Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal or Italian fare if you prefer. We chose both and they each made our mouths sing with praise.

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle 89 — Recharge your batteries with a visit to **Gassl Bräu**.

But no visit to Gassl Bräu’s is complete without drinking a pint of Gassl Bräu’s beer — a fine, frosty reflection of South Tyrol’s centuries-old brewing tradition. Before ordering one too many, though, be sure to walk into the tavern’s brewery. It’s a slightly surreal experience. A glass floor lays beneath your feet revealing a rushing stream with trout darting back and forth.

Whether you dine or simply savor a refreshment, the street-side tables at Gassl Bräu’s offer the idyllic medieval setting to plan a hike to another historic wonder. Allow us to suggest the Sabiona Monastery.

This striking destination clings to a clifftop high above the village. See our post for details on how to get there. #MakeAdventureHappen 😍

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Along the Schenner Waalweg: Hiking to the Church of St. George

Updated: February 13, 2022

The Church of St. George in South Tyrol is a historic icon of the Tyrolean Alps. Discover how to trek the Schenner Waalweg to visit this picturesque beauty.

SNOW-BORN WATER ripples wildly beneath our feet as we ramble under a dense forest canopy. Sunlight teases us through the leaves, but what lies ahead we cannot say. The trail bending beyond the woods’ end blazes like a blinding light at the end of a tunnel.

When the trees finally part the vast beauty of this corner of South Tyrol becomes apparent. The eastern faces of the Ötztal Alps paint us a postcard-perfect Alpine scene that is among the most breathtaking offered by the region’s Waalweg paths.

Gazing into South Tyrol’s Val Passira (Passeier Valley), our jaws drop at the sight of the Mutspitze (Monte Muta) rising 7,500+ ft. into the quintessential mountain peak. Beyond Mutspitze, soars the even higher Rötl mountain and the snowy summits of Spronser Rötelspitzer (Cima Rosa), which hold the highest Alpine lakes in South Tyrol.

Deeper into those distant peaks our imaginations wander to Similaun mountain teetering on the Austrian border. This nearly 12,000 ft. giant was the icy tombstone to one of mankind’s greatest historical discoveries: the 5,300-year-old mummified body of Ötzi the Iceman.

As we walk, the soulful sound of cuckoo birds cooing and cowbells clanging mingle with the steady splash of water. Somewhere ahead we also hear a waterfall raging into a gorge.

We look on in silence — taking our time to wholly absorb the mountainous wonders. Then move further along the path into the heart of an apple orchard lushing the mountainside.

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Soon we pass through a wind-swept meadow spangled with gold petals steeping in the sun. We stroll by sleepy farms and find ourselves once again tunneling into a shady grove of trees.

As we walk, the soulful sound of cuckoo birds cooing and cowbells clanging mingle with the steady splash of water. Somewhere ahead we also hear a waterfall raging into a gorge.

We laugh out loud wondering what other surprises this heavenly trail will bring before coming to the historic Church of St. George.

Along the Schenner Waalweg: Hiking to the Church of St. George 94 — When a Waalweg needs a helping hand a hollowed-out log will do.

Our journey eventually winds us through a vineyard where we duck slightly beneath an overhang of vines. We pause to admire the craftwork of a wayside shrine — one of many encountered during our hike — and then spot a sign indicating the church is just ahead.

Within the Church of St. George

The Church of St. George landed on our bucket list the second we came across it researching sights in South Tyrol. Just as the Sabiona Monastery captivated us at first glance, this peculiar circular Alpine church did the same. Its saintly pose atop a vine-riddled hill with a ravishing mountain backdrop never faded from our wanderlust dreams.

The church is located in the tiny hamlet of St. George which sits on the slope of Mt. Ifinger (Picco Ivigna) — an 8,400+ ft. behemoth of the Sarntal Alps. Given its Romanesque contours, the Church of St. George is thought to have been built in the early 1200s.

Along the Schenner Waalweg: Hiking to the Church of St. George 95 — For more than 800 years, the steeple of the Church of St. George has pierced the sky above Schenna.

It may have in fact been a temporary place of worship for crusading armies marching south to fight in the Holy Land. Depictions through the centuries celebrate St. George as a defender of Christ similar to how medieval crusaders saw themselves.

We walk around the church exterior then step inside. A sweeping theater of frescoes greets us. They date to around 1400 A.D. and vividly depict the life and death of St. George. The walls speak to us in brush strokes and we come to learn how this former Roman soldier became a martyr.

Intricately carved and beaming with color, it tells a much happier tale: St. George, the dragon slayer.

In 303 A.D. after George refused to denounce his Christian faith, the Roman emperor Diocletian sentenced him to death. How did he die? Not well.

Before his execution, St. George gave his wealth to the poor. Then he endured utterly brutal torture at the hands of the Romans.

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Along the Schenner Waalweg: Hiking to the Church of St. George 99 — The 15th-century frescoes of St. George Church tell a troubling tale.

These fresco scenes make us cringe. They show the saint crammed in a barrel pierced with blazing hot nails, as well as lacerated by a crude wheel of swords. According to legend, George required resuscitation three times during the torture. Still, he did not recant his beliefs before being beheaded.

This trail unfurls an enchanting medley of South Tyrolean landscapes — from Alpine to Mediterranean and everything in between.

After studying the depictions, we approach a Gothic wooden triptych set between church windows. Intricately carved and beaming with color, it tells a much happier tale: St. George, the dragon slayer. This work of art we learn belongs to Hans Schnatterpeck — a famous 15th-century artist of Merano.

We leave the church stepping back into the bountiful South Tyrolean sun. Our visit was brief, but the dramatic history, detailed beauty and throng of sights encountered make the trek to the Church of St. George an experience we will not soon forget.

How to Reach the Church of St. George

Along the Schenner Waalweg: Hiking to the Church of St. George 100 — The soul-mending melody of moving water makes waalwegs among the most relaxing walks in South Tyrol.

The best way to visit the Church of St. George while also spying it from a lofty distance is to hike the Schenner Waalweg. If you are not familiar with the word “Waalweg”, these are centuries-old path-lined irrigation channels carved into South Tyrol’s mountainsides.

Along the Schenner Waalweg: Hiking to the Church of St. George 101 — Follow the well-placed signposts to reach the Schenner Waalweg.

The Schenner Waalweg runs above the village of Schenna (Scena) near Merano. As you can see, this trail unfurls an enchanting blend of South Tyrolean landscapes — from Alpine to Mediterranean and everything in between.

To reach the trail, we suggest starting from the village of Verdins which is 5 minutes north of Schenna. A public parking lot is off the main road if you arrive by car. You can also take a public bus to Verdins if you prefer.

From the town center follow the signposts. They will lead you uphill for a bit before steering you onto the Schenner Waalweg. Once on the Waalweg, head south towards Schenna. Along the way, you will pass by mountainside taverns such as the Köstenthalerhof where you can savor a hearty meal or simply soak in the panoramic views over a frosty pint.

Along the Schenner Waalweg: Hiking to the Church of St. George 102 — The Schenna Castle and neo-Gothic Mausoleum are architectural marvels not to miss.

The hike to the Church of St. George will take roughly 1.5 to 2 hours. It is accessible to any level hiker and only has a few short bursts of inclines.

After visiting the church, you can trek downslope to explore the Schenna Castle and Mausoleum. The fierce neo-Gothic style of the Schenna Mausoleum makes it a striking sight well worth admiring up close.

Another option after the church visit is to hike back to Verdins. If you time your outing right, you can feast at the Dorfstub’m — a rustic stube in Verdins radiating heart-warming South Tyrolean charm.

The Dorfstub’m is a part of the Verdinser Hof wellness resort. which we have not had the good fortune to experience yet, but if you are seeking 4-star accommodations near Schenna, it looks absolutely divine.

For additional hiking ideas in and around Schenna, visit the official Schenna tourism site. As you’ll discover, the area teems with outdoor adventure laced with historic treasures throughout.

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Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History

Updated: December 18, 2021

The first time your eyes lock on the Sabiona Monastery set atop a jigsaw of crags and spurs high above the artists’ village of Chiusa, your fate is sealed. Embarking on a lofty adventure to the “Holy Mountain of South Tyrol” becomes a must.

THE SABIONA MONASTERY (also known as Säben Abbey) is impossible to miss while cruising over the Brenner Pass between Brixen and Bolzano. Like so many sights along the ancient Roman passage, it looms with undeniable intrigue.

So much so that when we first spotted the historic landmark from the roadway it practically steered us to the next available exit. Letting this grand medieval mystery teasing the heavens remain unknown to us was not an option.

We found a public parking lot conveniently located on the edge of the town — almost directly underneath the steep rock face rising to the foot of the monastery. Gazing up we were at a loss on how to reach the site.

Fortunately, the tourist information center in Chiusa (also known as Klausen) was not far into town. A staff member kindly revealed the mountain top mystery to us and now we get to reveal it to you.

About the Sabiona Monastery

According to legend, Saint Cassian of Imola founded the monastery around the year 350 A.D. However, the rocky outcropping upon which it sits was historically significant even centuries before then.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy.

Archaeological studies show evidence of dwellings on the “Acropolis of Tyrol” dating back to the age of Ötzi the Iceman. Ancient Romans also used the mountain likely as a military outpost. The rocky perch overlooking the narrowest point of Brenner Pass would have allowed Augustus, Caesar and the like to swiftly close southern Europe from northern threats.

Findings from excavations over the years indicate houses of Christian worship were present by the 5th century. A century later the Roman Catholic Church installed a bishop on Sabiona resulting in the spread of Christianity throughout the region. For this reason, faithful South Tyroleans consider it their “Holy Mountain”.

Sabiona Monastery in South Tyrol — For centuries Sabiona Monastery has been a pilgramage for the faithful.

By the 1400s, additional churches and fortifications were built on the mountain creating much of the Gothic castle-like appearance of the monastery that is visible today. We were surprised to discover that since the late 1600s, it has been home to nuns under the Order of St. Benedict.

Even though the large parts of the monastery are not accessible to tourists due to Benedictine rules (nuns are not allowed to interact with guests), visitors can still trek to see the historic churches of the monastery including the Church of the Holy Cross, whose founding was more than 1,400 years ago.

How to Reach the Sabiona Monastery

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The steep staircase to Sabiona begins on the western edge of Chiusa. This is a blessing. You will likely arrive in the town on the eastern end meaning you get to experience the fairy tale setting of Chiusa.

The town is tucked tightly between the mountainside and the Isarco River, which may at first seem a bit of an odd location for a thriving community. But when viewed through a historical lens it makes perfect sense. In the Middle Ages and before, Chiusa would have been an ideal defensive position not to mention a treasure trove of coin collecting as any travelers wishing to pass through had to pay a toll.

Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History 106 — As the “City of Artists”, Chiusa offers much more to discover beyond the Sabiona Monastery.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy. The very definition of quaint and cozy kissed with a vibrant zest. The colorful pastels gracing many of the medieval facades will make you think you wandered onto a canvas.

Reaching the Sabiona stairs carries you directly through Chiusa’s old-world heart over a narrow street known as Via Città Alta. It is dotted by numerous shops, cafes and taverns prime for discovering the artisanal talents of local South Tyroleans.

The town prides itself as the “City of Artists” with an artful legacy that includes visits by greats such as Albrecht Dürer — one of the most celebrated painters of the Renaissance. In fact, he was so enamored by Chiusa he used the village as the backdrop for his famous copper-plate engraving of the Greek goddess Nemesis in 1502.

Climb the Stairway to Heaven

By the following signs for Sabiona, you will find the staircase on a sleepy side alley to the right of the main street. Along this stretch, you will encounter a fascinating looking building known as the Mineralienecke (Mineral Store).

It appears as if from a Game of Thrones set. The building’s outer wall is clad with an assortment of medieval tools making it an iconic place to snap a photo.

Mineralienecke in Chiusa — Choose your weapon? The Mineralienecke building is a one-of-kind curisoity in Chiusa.

We could not figure out how to visit the inside, but perhaps just as well. If the outside is any indication of what lies within, poor souls who enter may stumble upon a torture chamber.

Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

The stairs begin around the corner under a large crucifix. Upon starting the climb, pause for a moment to consider the hallowed ground you are walking on. The stone beneath your feet has led pilgrims to Sabiona for centuries. The hike you are now embarking on is one of the oldest pilgrimages in Europe.

The stairs offer a steep ascent that shortly leads you past Branzoll Castle, a privately owned fortress towering above vineyards. The path then branches off allowing you to choose either the Sabiona Promenade — a rugged walk through the mountain’s forested slopes — or a gentler path called Via Cruxis that is decorated with the Stations of the Cross.

We chose to take the hiking trail up and return to Chiusa along the historic route. This option does make your Sabiona adventure a bit longer and certainly more sweat-inducing.

From here, the hike up takes around 30 minutes and rewards you with multiple points to enjoy sweeping views of Chiusa and the Isarco Valley. The trail is not dangerous, but if you are not accustomed to hiking we recommend taking the Via Cruxis path up and down.

Experience Vivid Stillness

The first sight to visit once arriving at the sprawling monastery grounds is its oldest structure — the Church of the Holy Cross. It sits on the highest point of the mountain.

The origins of the church date back to the 500s when it was the cathedral for Bishop Ingenuinus who lies in eternal rest inside.

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Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History 108 — Walking into the Church of the Holy Cross is like traversing the tides of time.

Bishop Ingenuinus or “Little Kneeling One” as his name suggests, was likely bishop of Sabiona from 577 until his death in 605. He is viewed as a patron saint of mountain people.

The outside of the church is captivating with a 40 foot painted cross gracing its outer apse. But it is the inside that rivets the imagination — especially if you can visit when sunlight is pouring through the windows.

In the 17th century, an unnamed artist painted striking frescoes throughout the interior. Many of these vivid biblical scenes evoke the feeling of being within a grand marbled hall.

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Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History 110

Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History 111 — The church’s elaborate crucifix from the 15th century is a wonder to look upon.

In addition to the fantastical paintings, the church exhibits the carvings of Leonhard von Brixen — a sculptor and painter from the 15th century. His moving crucifix high in the apse is a historic gem of religious realism.

After absorbing the treasures of the church, we suggest sliding into a pew to allow the inspiring stillness of this space wash over you. Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

Wander the Mountain Top

Beyond visiting the Church of the Holy Cross, you can also walk around the complex admiring the age-old courtyard and tower, another small chapel, as well as other beautiful works of religious art set about the grounds.

If you want to take in more splendid panoramas while atop the mountain, hop on a trail that darts to the east of the monastery. You will be able to peer deep into the horizon like a Roman soldier scanning for a sign of the Gauls and Goths.

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Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History 113

Once you have thoroughly worked up a thirst and appetite from all of the exploring and soulful reflection, take the Via Cruxis route back down to Chiusa. Besides the fact you are now going downhill, you will find this path easier as it is in better shape and a gentler grade.

The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

In addition to the Stations of the Cross, an impressive castled wall will be your companion much of the way. It encircles the monastery grounds until the hill steepens into a terraced vineyard right beneath the octagonal church known as Liebfrauenkirche.

Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History 114 — Peace among the vines. The Liebfrauenkirche church stands over row upon row of grapevines that tumble down the mountainside.

The Liebfrauenkirche church was added to the Sabiona Monastery in the 1650s. It is also open for visiting. Inside, you can study Baroque artwork of the Virgin Mary from several notable artists. While we did not have an opportunity to see it, a baptismal fountain dating to the 5th century is inside as well.

Explore the Charms of Chiusa

Once back in town we suggest spending the remainder of your day exploring Chiusa. If you’re not in the mood for a bite to eat yet, pay a visit to the boutiques you passed along the Via Città Alta. From browsing the wood carvings of Val Gardena to the paintings of local artists and more, you will undoubtedly discover a keepsake or gift for a loved one.

A Woodcarver in Chiusa — If you time your visit right to a shop in Chiusa, you may catch an artist in the midst of crafting their latest vision.

Additional sights you will find of interest is the Chiesa di Sant’Andrea near the town center. This picturesque church by the river was first mentioned in 1208.

After your visit, cross the nearby bridge and meander along the riverfront. The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

Chiusa River Promenade — Romance ripples along the rivery shores of Chuisa.

For a deeper dive into the world of art, consider visiting the Museum of Chiusa. It holds the Treasure of Loreto, a priceless collection of religious objects and paintings from Spanish and Italian artists of the 16th and 17th century.

To appease your hunger and thirst immediately after visiting the monastery, we recommend venturing to Gassl Bräu. This craft brewery and tavern is situated just steps away from the staircase to Sabiona.

Gassl Bräu offers an idyllic indoor or outdoor dining setting and delicious fare that will suit the staunchest Tyrolean and the pickiest Italian. If you’re a beer enthusiast, be sure to enjoy a pint or two of Gassl Bräu’s beer, but also wander into the brewery. It is quite possibly the only one in the world with a trout stream running beneath the floor.

When to Visit the Sabiona Monastery

No matter the time of year you visit South Tyrol you can add a hike to the Sabiona Monastery to your trip plans. The site is open all year. If you go in the winter months, consider bringing a set of hiking poles and obviously the appropriate footwear.

The churches are open for visitation from 8 AM to 5 PM. It’s worth noting that if a door is locked it is likely Sabiona’s nuns are cleaning the interior. Simply wander to a different church and return later to see if it is unlocked.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World’s Oldest Vine

Updated: December 18, 2021

It’s not every day you meet a royal lady several hundred years old. But one such endearing elder thrives far below a castle in the village of Prissiano in South Tyrol (Alto Adige).

DEEP IN THE FOOTHILLS bounding between Merano and Bolzano lies one of the world’s greatest living treasures: the Versoaln vine of Castel Katzenzungen. This rare natural gem is likely the oldest and largest grapevine in the world.

Affectionately known as the “Old Lady” by the caretaker and owner of the castle, Veronika Egger Pobitzer, the vine according to viticulturists is 350+ years-old. The only known grapevine in the world of similar age is found in nearby Slovenia.

However, legend speaks of the Versoaln grapevine being even much older. It is said the Count of Schlandersperg planted the vine beneath his castle in 1379 — making her more than 600 years old. Whatever is the truth, the Old Lady is a wonder to behold when visiting South Tyrol.

Meeting the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen

The Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen enthrones herself almost 200 feet below the earth where her roots enjoy the spoils of the soil all to themselves. She eventually surfaces along an old stone wall at the foot of the castle’s hill.

From there, the Old Lady’s gnarled trunk curls into a wide smile as two main branches fan out a river of foliage. We found her wrinkled grin far more enchanting than any ever unfurled by the stroke of an artist’s brush.

But as pretty as her smile is, it’s the Old Lady’s verdant veil that steals your breath. Her leafy canopy shrouds the hillside — covering nearly 3,800 sq. ft. Atop the castle’s stone arch bridge, it appears as a velvety cloak kissed with green and gold. When the sun lances her leaves she almost shimmers in the light.

Looking down on her one can’t help but be in awe of her tenacious spirit. The Old Lady has braved centuries of war, famine and fire to still dazzle the eyes today.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 115 — The Versoaln vine displays a grand canopy below Castel Katzenzungen.

She rests her branches on a sprawling chestnut pergola several feet above the ground. When we first set foot under her canopy it was like walking into a hidden world.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct.

The Old Lady enveloped us in a labyrinth of lushness. Her leaf-riddled arms seemed to pull us down the hill. Clearly, she is a curious soul. Wanting to meet all who enter her realm face to face.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct. Its name pre-dates Ancient Rome and likely refers to how the canopy of vines was secured to trellises by rope. Fortunately, viticulturists from South Tyrol have been able to birth new vines from the Old Lady ensuring the variety’s future.

Vesoaln produces compact clusters of translucent medium-sized grapes. The Old Lady is still quite fruitful yielding enough grapes each year to produce 300-500 bottles of wine.

Veronika noted the castle estate does not actually produce the wine or care for the vine. The grapes are vinified at the Laimburg Research Center — a South Tyrolean agriculture institute located near the wine village of Tramin.

Versoaln vine — A beauty for the ages from above and below, the Old Lady still produces up to 900 lbs of grapes each year.

Tending to the health of the Old Lady is handled by the botanical experts of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff in Merano. In addition to protecting the vine, the Gardens’ promote her as a culturally significant part of South Tyrol’s 3,000-year-old winegrowing heritage.

Despite their efforts to safeguard the vine, how long the Old Lady will be with us is not known. Unfortunately, she has been afflicted with a slow-moving wood disease called Esca, which deprives her of water. To combat this menace, portions of the vine must be removed where Esca appears each year.

Touring Castel Katzenzungen

After giving our best wishes to the Old Lady and bidding her farewell, Veronika led us across the stone arch bridge for a tour of Castel Katzenzungen. This box-shaped castle is unlike any other we have encountered in South Tyrol.

First mentioned in 1244, the castle has been held by several noble families in South Tyrol over the centuries. While its name amusingly translates to “cat’s tongue”, the name actually arises from the original owner: Henricus de Cazenzunge.

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From Sir Cazenzunge, the castle passed to the Lords of Fink and the Lords of Schlandersberg, as well as the Counts of Thun and Fuchs. In 1548, Castel Katzenzungen came into the hands of Lords of Breisach, who transformed it into its current Renaissance style.

Inside, Veronika pointed out architectural clues on the original stone staircase hinting a tower may have graced the castle at one point in time. She shared that for nearly 200 years Castel Katzenzungen was among the most prestigious residences in South Tyrol thanks to the wealth of the Breisach family. When their rule ended, the castle fell into decay.

The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the world's oldest grapevine.

It remained largely in ruin until 1978 when Veronika’s father-in-law, Josef Pobitzer, purchased the castle. Josef then passed the castle to his son, Ernst, who beautifully restored Castel Katzenzungen to its original character and former glory.

Today, the Pobitzer family operates the castle as a one-of-a-kind wedding and corporate event venue. Between its three floors, Castel Katzenzungen can host anywhere from a small group of 10 up to 450 guests.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 117 — Medieval weaponry adorns the great halls of the castle.

Veronika led us through each floor highlighting fascinating historic details of the castle. The ground floor now holds lavish banquet rooms and a wine bar, but during medieval times it was actually the castle’s stable. Why? Residents of the castle kept livestock at the lowest level so the animals’ body heat would assist warming the upper floors.

The first floor holds a large hall for live music and dancing. The hall’s stone floor is only around 20 years old, but masterfully resembles the original including its dark red color, which long ago was dyed red with animal blood.

Castel Katzenzungen Stube — Wood paneling from the 16th century lines the walls and ceilings of the castle’s lounge rooms.

Additional rooms on the first floor include elegant stubes wrapped in warm wood panels from the 16th century. This rustic feature was almost lost to history. Poor farmers staying in the castle during its period of decay covered the paneling to make the rooms smaller thus easier to heat. The gorgeous woodwork was revealed during the castle’s restoration.

Our favorite room of the castle was the medieval kitchen. Its walls run black —forever scarred by woodfires lit over the centuries to smoke speck. Dining in the kitchen under candlelight would undoubtedly transport you to another time.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 118 — Longing for enchantment? It is inescapable in the kitchen of Castel Katzenzungen.

The second floor features additional banquet rooms for larger gatherings. In the future, the Pobitzer family plans to use part of the floor to also showcase unique artwork, rocks, gemstones, minerals and a collection of historic arms from Josef Pobitzer.

Perhaps the most peculiar part of the second floor is the medieval bathrooms. Stone seats jut out from the exterior castle wall with an opening that allowed residents to relieve themselves high above the grounds. These of course were located on the sides of the castle — not above the front gate. Whether an unlucky peasant ever received these “gifts” from the heavens above we will never know.

Tasting One of the World’s Rarest Wines

We ended our visit to Castel Katzenzungen in the castle’s wine bar with a tasting of the Versoaln wine. The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the Old Lady.

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Veronika kindly poured us each a glass and touched on the special attributes of Versoaln. In the glass, the wine sparkled with a yellowish-green hue and possessed subtle notes of green apple and exotic fruits on the nose.

In the mouth, it was surprisingly delicious. A summertime pleaser. The Versoaln wine was light and fruity with a fun touch of tart on the finish. We had to bring a bottle of the Old Lady home with us. Her story is too remarkable not to share.

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If you want to sweeten your lips with the Old Lady yourself, the only way to do so is by visiting Castel Katzenzungen. Due to the small production volume of the wine, bottles are only sold at the wine bar.

So how much is a bottle of one of the rarest wines in the world? Surprisingly affordable. For only € 35 you can regale the tale and flavor of the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen with your family and friends.

How to Visit the Old Lady & Castel Katzenzungen

If you are a castle or wine lover, you will want to add Castel Katzenzungen and Prissiano to your South Tyrol trip plans. In fact, Prissiano is known as the “village of castles” since it is the historic home to an abundance of regal residences.

Throughout the year, Castel Katzenzungen hosts various cultural and culinary events in support of the local community. If you cannot visit during an event, a castle tour and organized tasting can be arranged for 10 or more.

An annual autumn event we have our heart set on attending someday is a torchlight hike between three castles of Prissiano which includes Castel Katzenzungen. This festive outing is a part of the Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival).

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 121 — How about a wedding in a chapel followed by a celebration at a castle? The historic St. Martin Church sits directly across from Castel Katzenzungen.

Of course, an even better option for you to consider is hosting a smashing gala at Castel Katzenzungen. What could be more romantic than a wedding or anniversary party at a castle amid the mountains?! If you do book such a celebration, we kindly request an invite!

To explore scheduling a visit or more at Castel Katzenzungen, connect with Veronika via the castle’s official website.

The nearby town of Lana makes a convenient base for exploring the region. You can be in Prissiano in a matter of minutes by car or bus or you can wander from sight to sight along the numerous hiking trails crisscrossing the hills and valleys. See our guide to visiting and staying in Lana for more information.

We would like to give special thanks to Veronika for taking time out of her busy day to introduce us to the wonders of the Old Lady and Castel Katzenzungen!

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Castel Katzenzungen: Home to the World's Oldest Grapevine

Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol

Updated: December 18, 2021

Lana, Italy is a beaming bouquet of South Tyrol’s most beloved qualities. Here is your guide to adventure and enchantment in this mountain-ringed gem.

NO MATTER HOW many adventures you embark on in South Tyrol, the land never fails to surprise you. This rings especially true when visiting Lana.

A charming oasis pairing old-world ambiance with cosmopolitan vibes, Lana arises amid the orchards and vineyards bridging Bolzano and Merano. Its ideal location makes for a wonderful base during a trip to South Tyrol — especially in autumn when chestnuts, wine and Törggelen summon a festive spirit.

As we show you below, Lana teems with swoon-worthy sights caught in the enthralling collision of Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes. You will find this hidden corner of South Tyrol produces abundant moments of awe and some of the most prized grapes and apples in Europe.

What to See & Do in Lana

All of South Tyrol’s splendor from the majestic peaks of the Dolomites to the fabled streets of Bolzano and Merano are within easy reach of Lana. But the town itself abounds with so many riveting hiking trails and cultural wonders that it is a must experience all its own.

If you only have a few days to visit Lana, here are the top things to see and do in the “California of the Alps”.

1. Explore Mount Vigiljoch

San Vigilio Church in South Tyrol — The San Vigilio Church is a hike-worthy wonder near the summit of Mt. Vigiljoch.

A trip to South Tyrol is not complete without enjoying the sweeping panoramas from the skyscraping heights of a mountain. And there is perhaps no better mountain to ascend than Vigiljoch (also known as San Vigilio). A 6,200+ foot giant, the mountain careens to the heavens from the foot of Lana.

This forest-clad massif lets you peer deep to the east to spy some of the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites. But the theater of the sky does not end there. To the west, rise the magnificent Ortler Alps where the king of South Tyrol’s peaks, Ortler, commands reverence. Turn your eyes to the north and the Ötztal Alps thunder before you. These peaks were the glacial home to Ötzi the Iceman for 5,300 years.

The San Vigilio Cable Car from Lana whisks you partway up the mountain in a matter of minutes. Built in 1912, it is the second oldest cable car in Europe.

Hiking trail on Mount Vigiljoch — A hike on Mount Vigiljoch on a clear day offers views of the Dolomites to the east.

At the end of the ride, you can continue the sweat-free ascent by hopping on a lift chair. It will drop you below a hill crowned by the San Vigilio Church. This small stone chapel rises from the ruins of a prehistoric shrine. Since the Medieval Age, the San Vigilio Church has welcomed patrons.

Taking the chairlift no doubt stuns above the treetops, but it robs you of one of the most serene hikes in South Tyrol. After departing the cable car, we recommend hiking trail no. 1, which leads you through ancient larch forests where the silence greets you like a long lost friend.

Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal while naming each peak of the Dolomites beautifying the horizon.

From trail no. 1 you will take trail 34A up a boulder-riddled slope that opens into a bright meadow with a mountain stream pouring its heart out. The mineral-rich water of Vigiljoch is revered for its healing properties. In fact, the spa Terme Merano fills its thermal pools with water pumped directly from the mountain.

Mount Vigiljoch Water and Mushroom — It pays to also look down while hiking Mount Vigiljoch. Alpine magic springs forth from within the mountain.

Trail no. 34A eventually connects with trail no. 34B. We recommend hopping on 34B to ramble your way up to the Bärenbadalm. Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal while naming each peak of the Dolomites beautifying the horizon.

When ready continue hiking on trail no. 2. Within 20 minutes you will reach San Vigilio Church. A stone path snakes off the trail guiding you to the church entrance.

First mentioned in 1278, locals still refer to the church as the “weather church” as it is said to protect people from thunderstorms. It is not open to guests, but the gated doorway allows you to peek inside and ponder faded frescoes from the 14th century.

Mount Vigiljoch Church — Trekking to the San Vigilio Church is a must while in Lana.

After admiring the church, shuffle down the slope to begin your return to the San Vigilio Cable Car. Follow trail no. 4 to the chairlift station and then veer off to trail no. 8.

A short walk leads to an outlook platform jutting out above the tips of pines. Here, you will survey a grand checkerboard of vineyards and orchards, far-off villages and an even clearer picture of the Dolomites.

Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol 122 — A viewing platform on Mt. Vigiljoch offers a sweeping views of the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites.

Trek back to trail no. 4 and follow it down the mountain to trail no. 34. Once on trail no. 34, it is only another 20 minutes to the cable car station.

Before floating back to Lana, consider relaxing with a refreshment on the sun terrace of the Vigilius Mountain Resort — a 5-star resort that seemingly disappears into the mountainside.

2. Trek the Marlinger Waalweg

Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol 123 — The Marlinger Waalweg offers you 7+ miles of breathtaking beauty.

If you have never hiked along a Waalweg in South Tyrol, the Marlinger Waalweg (also known as Marlengo) is a picturesque introduction to the magic these trails offer hikers. Waalwegs are ancient waterways that run throughout the countryside of Merano and Val Venosta.

As early as the 12th century, farmers carved them into the mountainsides to channel snowmelt from the summits. Capturing the pure elixir flowing from the peaks was the surest way to satisfy the thirst of the area’s orchards and vineyards. Paths followed the canals allowing farmers to keep them free of debris.

The sweet aromas enveloping the trail are enough alone to impart a smile on even the most haggard hiker.

The Marlinger Waalweg was built nearly 300 years ago and stretches 7+ miles high above the Etschtal valley (Val d’Adige) from Lana to the small hamlet of Töll. Hiking it takes 4-5 hours gently weaving you through a wealth of natural beauty.

A handful of mountainside restaurants such as the Gasthaus Leitenschenke sit right on the trail pairing sumptuous dishes with even more sumptuous views. If you dine at Gasthaus Leitenschenke in autumn, be sure to order the South Tyrolean Chestnut Hearts dessert. It is a delectable dream of chocolate, chestnuts and cream not to miss.

As you walk along the trail, the calming melody of babbling water remains your companion. You’ll pass through orchards dappled with apples, plums and other fruits and dart underneath arches of vines basking their bulbous jewels in the sun.

The sweet aromas enveloping the trail are enough alone to impart a smile on even the most haggard hiker.

Eventually, the path bends through deciduous forests and groves of old chestnut trees. These elders of the waalweg welcome you with ample amounts of shade and a bit of mischief as you may have to dodge the occasional falling chestnut.

3. Storm the Lebenberg Castle

The most striking historic sight you will encounter on the Marlinger Waalweg is the Lebenberg Castle (also known as Castel Monteleone). It salutes you from high above a steep avalanche of vineyards tumbling to the valley floor.

The Lords of Marling adorned the mountainside with Lebenberg Castle in the 13th century. While it is a sight worthy of lengthy admiration from a distance, the real pleasure comes from walking among its illustrious walls.

Studying the room one can't help but wonder what history remains hidden behind each blade and musket.

Inside, the sprawling fortress reveals the romantic and brutal realities of medieval life. The tour begins in a courtyard bedecked with grapevines and proceeds to the castle’s Gothic chapel of St. Stephan. Adjoined to Lebenberg in the 14th century, the chapel is awash in religious artwork of the time.

Lebenberg Castle Panorama — Views fit for a king. The Lebenberg Castle is one of the most celebrated castles in South Tyrol.

After visiting the chapel, the tour continues to another courtyard and to a room holding a collection of arms and torture contraptions. Studying the room one can’t help but wonder what history remains hidden behind each blade and musket.

Before concluding the tour, it also brings you to a Hall of Mirrors, Hall of Knights and another courtyard showcasing French Rococo gardens ornamented with a 200-year old mulberry tree. The vast view of the Etschtal valley through the battlements lining the courtyard paints a vivid picture of why the Lords of Marling chose this mountainside perch.

Reaching Lebenberg castle from the Marlinger Waalweg is a bit of a climb. However, you can also drive to the castle if you wish. Tours are available daily for 8€.

4. Experience the Brandis Waterfall

From the remote crags of the Pacific Northwest and the Rockies to the forested wilds of North America, we have encountered many roaring waterfalls during our hiking adventures, but the tireless plunge of the Brandis waterfall above Lana is among the most eye-catching.

Crashing over cliffs on the edge of the Brandis Waalweg like a pot of gold spilling at the end of a rainbow, the Brandis waterfall is not the grandest we have ever seen. However, its accessible setting gives you something most waterfalls do not: the opportunity to intimately experience its breathless rush. If careful, you can hike nearly beneath the thundering downpour and let its misty splash tickle your face.

Branches gnarled lurch over the trail as if they could snatch you at any moment.

Reaching the waterfall involves a 2+ mile hike along the Brandis Waalweg. Forged by the Lord of Brandis in the 1800s, the water of this waalweg runs beneath the trail instead of by its side.

The Brandis Waalweg leads you on a pleasant, flat ground walk through vineyards and orchards bearing everything from apples to kiwi. As it is set into the mountainside, the trail boasts sweeping views of Lana including historical gems such as the St. Margherita Chapel, the crumbling ruins of Brandis Castle and the Parish Church of Maria Himmelfarht, celebrated for its winged altar carved out of chestnut in the early 1500s.

About halfway through the hike, an old chestnut forest receives you with shade and alarm. Branches gnarled with age lurch over the trail as if they could snatch you at any moment.

In the heart of the grounds, tempts an immense labyrinth made from an entanglement of evergreen hedges and grapevines.

Beyond the forest lies a few farmsteads where you may have to negotiate the trail with a loose chicken or three while trying to ignore the laughter of llamas below. Eventually, you will pass intriguing works of art dotting the trail before entering the Brandis Gaul. From here, you will trot over a wooden bridge following the Brandis stream all the way to the waterfall.

On the return hike, the Waalrast restaurant offers a chance to drink and eat under the guard of the Brandis Castle before venturing back to the trail’s starting point. Round trip the hike takes roughly 2 hours.

5. Summit the Hill of St. Hippolyt Church

Like the ancient stone chapel on Mount Vigiljoch, the Church of St. Hippolyt near Lana is not among the most arresting churches one could adore, but the scenery from its rocky hilltop transcends any cathedral.

Once atop, your eyes will sweep over 20 villages and 40 some odd castles strewn across the lush valley.

This small Romanesque church from the 1200s honors a relatively unknown patron whose past is largely born of legend. Fitting in a way, as the hill the Church of St. Hippolyt sits upon has religious roots dating back 4,000 years. Since ancient times, it was thought to be a source of mystical energy.

Trails around Lana lead to St. Hippolyt, but the quickest way to reach the church is to start from a parking lot located at the foot of its hill. From here, it is a 10-15 minute hike through woodland to the summit. The hike is relatively easy with only a few steep stretches.

6. Contemplate the Gardens & Wine of Kränzelhof Winery

When a town is crowned the largest fruit-growing community in South Tyrol, it is not difficult to happen upon a thriving garden. However, you will not find any more captivating than the seven gardens of the Kränzelhof Estate.

Beyond producing wines of exceptional esteem, this 800-year-old winery also seduces your mind, body and soul with seven gardens embellishing nearly 5 acres at the foot of Mount Vigiljoch. Sculptures and works of art spanning classical to contemporary decorate the immaculately manicured gardens encouraging you to pause and ponder their meaning.

Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol 124 — Entrancing sculptures and artwork can be found throughout the gardens of Kränzelhof.

Not all of the sculptures are in obvious places and poses. This imparts a whimsical spirit to the gardens as some will pleasantly surprise you from their hidden nooks.

Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol 125 — Complementing your stroll through the gardens with a sampling of Kränzelhof wines is a must.

In the heart of the grounds, tempts an immense labyrinth made from an entanglement of evergreen hedges and grapevines. As we visited the estate near sunset, we gave up puzzling our way through the verdurous maze shortly after entering. We were certain continuing meant some other lost soul would one day stumble over our bones deep within.

After strolling the gardens, we recommend continuing your contemplative journey by tasting the wines of Kränzelhof in the timbered house located at the entrance to the gardens. Even if you do not want to sip wine, be sure to walk through the structure. It is beautifully crafted from larch trees found nearby.

Kranzelhof Winery & Gardens in Lana — The colors of autumn ravish the grounds around the Kränzelhof Winery.

The Kränzelhof Estate and its gardens are open Tuesday-Saturday. You are free to walk the gardens on your own, but guided tours of the entire estate are also available for those interested in consuming the winery’s remarkable history in addition to its wines.

We suggest planning on at least two hours to fully enjoy the Kränzelhof experience. The cost to tour the winery’s gardens and sample its wines is 21€. If you wish to only discover the gardens, the cost is 8€.

Where to Stay in Lana

Hotels and resorts flourish around Lana, but our recommendation is to delight in this timeless town like a local. Experiencing Lana in such a way gives you a greater appreciation for its authentic charms, soulful spirit and historical beauty.

The studio apartments of Landhaus am Gries are ideally located in the old world heart of Lana along the Falschauer river.

Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol 126

Gorgeously decorated and furnished with exquisite craftsmanship throughout, the apartments possess a simple-yet-stylish Alpine interior aesthetic with warm wood tones that make you feel at home. Ours was cozy and spotless, with a dramatic view of autumn afire beneath the mountain crests.

The apartments’ location below the gaze of the 13th-century Braunsberg Castle places you within walking distance of all of Lana’s spectacular sights, restaurants and shops. In addition, a small grocery store, wine bar, butcher shop and specialty gourmet store sit nearby allowing you to easily pick up any items you may want in your apartment.

The moment you walk into Landhaus am Gries the revivifying aroma of fresh-cut stone pine embraces you.

Owned and operated by the Donà family of South Tyrol, the heart-warming hospitality we received during our stay went above and beyond in every manner. Franziska Donà ensures your time in Lana is filled with the idyllic mix of adventure and relaxation.

Landhaus am Gries apartment in Lana — Aromatic wood from the Alps fills each **Landhaus am Gries** apartment with inviting Alpine character.

She will pinpoint how to reach the destinations mentioned above as well as share insights on special events like Lana’s weekly and seasonal markets. In addition, you will receive a MeranCard that provides special discounts to guests of Lana at certain venues such as the San Vigilio Cable Car station.

Franziska Donà makes you feel at home in Lana.

Each of the twelve apartments includes a modern kitchenette, spacious bathroom and a balcony where you can relax with a complimentary bottle from the family’s own boutique winery — Weingut Donà. This lovely winery in Eppan along the South Tyrolean Wine Road is a must-see if your South Tyrol travel wish list includes a genuine peek into the region’s wine culture.

When wishing to soak in the sun or get lost in a good book, a Mediterranean-inspired terrace facing the Falschauer river and Texel Mountain Group welcomes you with lounge chairs, olive trees and palms. Its lofty position above a leafy riverside promenade is a soul-mending way to spend a morning or afternoon.

Landhaus am Gries Sun Terrace — Kate unwinds on the Landhaus am Gries sun terrace after a morning rain shower. Lying just above the Falschauer river, the terrace is an inviting sanctuary for relaxation.

In fact, Landhaus am Gries’ riverside setting may just induce your best night’s sleep while in South Tyrol. We relished dozing off to the lullaby of rippling water rushing by our apartment each night with the skylight giving us a window to the stars above South Tyrol.

The moment you walk into Landhaus am Gries the revivifying aroma of fresh-cut stone pine (called Zirbenholz) embraces you. This sought-after pine of the Alps beautifies the building instilling tranquility that endures during your stay. For centuries, the Alpine regions of Europe have harnessed the wellness aspects of stone pine in their homes. Its pleasant fragrance remains in the wood for decades.

River in Lana in South Tyrol — Of forests, rivers and mountains — Landhaus am Gries places the natural beauty of Lana right outside your door.

The apartment building itself holds a storied past. A farm stable long ago, its rural roots are ennobled by its age-old stone foundation and a historic sculpture gracing a wall near the entrance.

Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol 127

Depicting the patron saint of butchers, the sculpture at one time belonged to a butcher in the family. It once brought good fortune to the butcher shop, but now imparts blessings on all who pause to admire the saint. Dogs included.

If you’re lucky enough to bring your furry friend to South Tyrol, Landhaus am Gries is dog-friendly. A newly opened art promenade running along the river gives your dog plenty to explore just a few steps outside your apartment. Within minutes you can also walk to the imposing Gaul Canyon (“Gaulschlucht”) — a spectacle of steep stone walls, curious rock formations and rainforest-like flora.

If you have a car while in South Tyrol, parking is free and located immediately next to the apartment building.

Landhaus am Gries Sunset — Our stay at Landhaus am Gries ended with a gorgeous sunset below the mountains.

Where to Eat in Lana

Lana and its surrounding villages offer an abundance of one-of-a-kind dining options, from down-to-earth to opulent. Here are a few of our favorite places to eat during your visit.

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery is an establishment unlike any we have ever been. Not only can you indulge in tasty craft brews, but you also can dine in their beer garden or traditional Buschenschank where windows offer a peek into farm animals frolicking within Pfefferlechner’s stables.

Their menu of course nicely complements the rustic ambiance. You can feast on delicious South Tyrolean fare freshly-made from only local ingredients.

Restaurant Stadele

Restaurant Stadele is a romantic gem not to be missed while in Lana. The quaint atmosphere of this candlelit restaurant and its fabulous South Tyrolean dishes and fusion cuisine will make for one of your memorable dining experiences in South Tyrol.

From our first sip to our last bite, the warm hospitality, presentation and flavor were superb. Even better, the menu is affordably priced. For the same experience in the U.S., it would cost us twice as much.

Zur Sonne

Sometimes after an adventured-filled day on the trails, you just want to unwind with a glass of wine…and pizza. Zur Sonne is the perfect place for such an evening.

This tiny family restaurant located on a shop-filled street of Lana makes some of the best Italian pies in the Alps. Be sure to save room for a homemade dessert or two.

1477 Reichhalter

If you cannot decide on South Tyrolean or Italian fare, choose 1477 Reichhalter to savor both. Possessing a simple yet stylish farmhouse feel in a quiet corner of Lana, 1477 Reichhalter is renowned for its high-quality dishes and friendly service.

Dining at 1477 Reichhalter is an intimate experience — almost as if you are eating at the home of your best friend. After our meal, we considered reordering our dishes just to enjoy the delightful flavors all over again. 1477 Reichhalter is definitely a restaurant you will want to return to whenever in South Tyrol.

Mein Beck

Like trekking a mountain trail, satisfying your sweet tooth at a bakery while in South Tyrol is a must. Mein Beck is a bustling neighboorhood bakery and cafe sure to brighten your morning with a wide assortment of heavenly pastries, breads, cakes and other celebrated specialties of South Tyrol.

We enjoyed a huge breakfast spread here while in Lana. If you plan to visit Mein Beck, keep your morning schedule light. The bakery is popular with locals and can be quite busy.

When to Visit Lana

Honestly, a trip to Lana is ideal at any time of year. The abundance of outdoor adventure and sights awaiting you means every season will be astounding.

Snow lovers will revel in winter hikes on Mount Vigiljoch and world-class skiing on the surrounding peaks. Not to mention in the Dolomites, which are just 45 minutes away. If you visit during the holiday season, you can also stroll Lana’s boutique Christmas market. It is as enchanting as they come. You will definitely find a local craft or specialty that captures your heart.

Our most recent trip to Lana was this past autumn. If you time your visit between September and October, you will be rewarded with some of the most colorful scenery in South Tyrol. Furthermore, autumn in Lana allows you to partake in a variety of harvest celebrations such as Törggelen and Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival) as well as the Merano Grape Festival.

South Tyrol Historic Sights

Through the Famous church alley

Hiking the Dreikirchenweg

Visiting the Three Churches

A Delicious Stop at Gasthof Messnerhof

Rambling Back to Villanders

Where to Stay in Villanders

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Mountainside in Merano

The Passer Promenade

The Summer Promenade

The Gilf Promenade

The Tappeiner Promenade

Paradise by Foot

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Reaching Tramin

Touring the Treasures of Tramin

Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta

The Church of St. Jakob

The St. Valentin Church and Cemetery

Reveling in Tradition

Where to Stay in Tramin

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Legend of the Golden Cup

What to See at St. Jakob

Inside St. Jakob

The St. Jakob Cemetery

How to Visit St. Jakob

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The Spell of Tyrol Castle

The Views from Tyrol Castle

Within Tyrol Castle

Hiking to Tyrol Castle

When to Visit Tyrol Castle

Wildflowers & Cobblestones

King of the Mountain

Roaming the Castle Grounds

INSIDE Trostburg Castle

How to Visit Trostburg Castle

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Within the Church of St. George

How to Reach the Church of St. George

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About the Sabiona Monastery

How to Reach the Sabiona Monastery

Climb the Stairway to Heaven

Experience Vivid Stillness

Wander the Mountain Top

Explore the Charms of Chiusa

When to Visit the Sabiona Monastery

Meeting the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen

Touring Castel Katzenzungen

Tasting One of the World’s Rarest Wines

How to Visit the Old Lady & Castel Katzenzungen

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What to See & Do in Lana

1. Explore Mount Vigiljoch

2. Trek the Marlinger Waalweg

3. Storm the Lebenberg Castle

4. Experience the Brandis Waterfall

5. Summit the Hill of St. Hippolyt Church

6. Contemplate the Gardens & Wine of Kränzelhof Winery

Where to Stay in Lana

Where to Eat in Lana

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery

Restaurant Stadele

Zur Sonne

1477 Reichhalter

Mein Beck

When to Visit Lana

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