Seiser Alm

Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

“Awe-inspiring.” “Breathtaking.” “Majestic.” All words you may have heard to describe Alpe di Siusi (also well known as Seiser Alm) — Europe’s most dramatic high mountain plateau. But the one you really need to know before visiting is “vast.”

Alpe di Siusi is immense. Picture an area even bigger than Manhattan looming thousands of feet above the valley floor of the Dolomites. A heart-pounding playground for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages and stripes, Alpe di Siusi sprawls over 34 square miles.

It’s a landscape of utter wild Alpine abandon tempered by a bounty of rolling meadows unlike anywhere else on the planet.

With 900 miles of hiking trails, you could spend an entire holiday in South Tyrol exploring the area. But if you’re like many travelers, you may only have set aside a day or two to visit this mountainous wonderland hidden near the heavens. If that’s the case, this guide is for you.

We walk you through how to experience the most iconic scenery of Alpe di Siusi — the Sassolungo (Langkofel), Sassopiato (Plattkofel) and Schlern (Sciliar) massifs — in all their glory. You’ll also find a mountain load of tips such as where to eat and additional sights to consider as you plan your Alpe di Siusi adventure.

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A Hike All Can Enjoy

Hiking Around Schlern — An emblem of South Tyrol, Schlern Mountain with its famous Santner and Euringer peaks steals the show on your hike to Compatsch. The two stony towers are named after the first people to climb them.

The hiking route we highlight winds through the plateau past rustic farms, mountain huts and thickets of evergreens. The striking mountain panoramas of Alpe di Siusi never leave your sight. Each trail we recommend ascends easily making this itinerary ideal for any age and skill level. No matter the season of your visit you can embark on this trek.

We detail the hike from two different starting points and their nearby attractions so you can determine which one appeals to you the most. Select the one that aligns most conveniently with where you’re staying and your interests.

No matter where you choose to begin the hike, the route returns to your starting point. You’ll get to experience the dramatic difference between the mountains from opposite directions. Round trip will take you 4-5 hours.

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Where is Alpe di Siusi?

Before we jump into specifics on this hike, let us paint a clear picture of where Alpe di Siusi is located. The name of the plateau can cause some confusion for travelers as it also denotes a broader holiday region in the Dolomites.

Alpe di Siusi Map — Alpe di Siusi is easy to reach. The region is just 40 minutes from Bolzano or Brixen.

The Alpe di Siusi holiday region includes the plateau as well as villages and valleys lying far below to its north and west. Also often associated with the plateau is the holiday region of Val Gardena, which runs more to its east.

As we show below, both holiday regions serve as excellent launching points for hiking Alpe di Siusi. Whether beginning your hike from Val Gardena or Alpe di Siusi, the hiking route we cover is the same. The only difference being your starting and endpoint.

By the way, you do not need to base yourself in either holiday region to enjoy Alpe di Siusi while visiting South Tyrol. You can be on the plateau in only 40-60 minutes by car from Bolzano, Brixen or Merano.

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #1

Mont Seuc Cable Car — The Mont Sëuc Cable Car zips you to the top of the plateau in 10 minutes.

The first hiking option we cover involves setting out from Ortisei (St. Ulrich) in Val Gardena. From the heart of Ortisei, you will take the Mont Sëuc Cable Car (Mont Sëuc means Alpe di Siusi in Ladin). In a matter of minutes, you will be on top of the plateau. From here, you will embark across the plateau to the tiny village of Compatsch (Compaccio).

After departing the cable car station any doubts you may have had about hiking a “pasture” vanish. Few sights anywhere can rival the sky-bound beauty of the Sassolungo Group unfolding before your eyes.

Using the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Reach Alpe di Siusi

Here are the step-by-step directions to take the Mont Sëuc lift:

If arriving in Ortisei by car, you have a couple of parking options to consider. You can park in the underground garage at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station or at the underground “Garage Central” parking lot in the center of Ortisei. From Garage Central it is just a 5-minute walk through town and over a foot/bike bridge to the station. Both parking areas are nicely located if you intend to also explore Ortisei.
Once at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, purchase a round trip ticket. The current cost is €19,90 per person.
To reach the cable car boarding area, insert the ticket into the turnstile ticket slot to gain access. Then wait for a station staff member to direct you to board an available cable car. Sit back and soak in the views on the way up. To the east, the Seceda massif and alp will gradually reveal itself.

Hiking from Mont Sëuc

Begin your hike by heading left on trail no. 9 towards the Sassolungo Group. The trail will descend through stands of pines until opening into the rolling meadowland.

On your left, you will pass the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the first of many mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi. “Schwaige” “Baita” and “Rifugio” are all used to denote mountain hut. These relaxing Alpine refuges have tended to travelers since the Middle Ages.

When you approach a fork in the trail stay on trail no. 9 to the left which will bring you past the Sporthotel Sonne. Follow trail no. 9 for a good distance enjoying the rugged faces of the Sassolungo Group staring down on you. Eventually, you will come to Hartlweg which intersects the trail. Take a right onto Hartlweg.

When Hartlweg runs into trail no. 6B take a right to visit Malga Sanon if you are ready for a refreshment or a bite to eat. If not, take a left onto 6B.

Trail no. 6B will merge into trail no. 9 for a short distance. You will come to an option to take trail no. 3 to the right, but continue on 9 until you come to the second intersection for trail no. 3. Then take a right onto 3 towards Compatsch.

schgaguler schwaige hut on alpe di siusi — Mountain huts like Malga Schgaguler Schwaige shown here invite your weary legs to rest with a hearty South Tyrolean meal, drink and view you will not forget.

Stay on trail no. 3 until it ends at trail no. 30, which is also known as the Hans & Paula Steger Weg. Named after two South Tyrolean climbing and skiing legends who once called Alpe di Siusi home.

Take a right onto trail no. 30 and follow it for roughly another 20 minutes until reaching Compatsch. The Sciliar mountain from this stretch is at its most stunning.

Once at the village, you can give your legs a rest at the restaurant in the Nordic Ski Center. It offers a more contemporary setting than the rustic mountain huts you encounter, but the menu serves up delicious pasta if that suits your mid-hike appetite.

After you’re done visiting Compatsch, set out to return to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station via the same route. You’ll pass by Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again, which is where we had the best forking meal in South Tyrol. From their terrace, you can devour your final views of Sassolungo before zipping back down to Ortisei on the cable car.

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Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #2

If you are interested in spending most of your time in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region, embarking on a hike of Alpe di Siusi itself from Compatsch is an excellent option to choose. Some of South Tyrol’s most alluring villages, churches and castles reside in this holiday region.

To start out from Compatsch, drive 7 miles above the village of Seis. Keep in mind the following:

The road leading towards Alpe di Siusi is closed to incoming traffic from 9 am to 5 pm so be sure to arrive before 9 am. The road is not closed to outgoing traffic so you can leave at any time.
Parking is available on the left of the road in Compatsch near the Alpe di Siusi visitor center in a lot called P2. The cost to park is €17,00. You can avoid paying the parking fee by parking in one of the roadside lots you’ll encounter on the drive up, but then, of course, you’ll extend your hike uphill.
If you happen to arrive after 9 am when the road is closed, all is not lost. Take the Alpe di Siusi Cable Car up from the village of Seis. The cable car cost is €17,00 per person so it pays to arrive before 9 am and park.

Hiking from Compatsch

This hiking option follows the same route as above except instead of hiking to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, the mid-point for your hike will be the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige before heading back to Compatsch.

You can certainly hike up to the cable car station and enjoy a refreshment and meal there if you wish in their restaurant. But our preference is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. Nothing beats their food and views in our opinion.

Here’s the hiking route you will follow from Compatsch. From the parking lot, you will pick up trail no. 30 (Hans & Paula Steger Weg).

Schlern Mountain in Winter — No matter when you visit, spring, summer, fall or winter, the sights on Alpe di Siusi will steal your breath. Guaranteed.

Follow trail no. 30 until it intersects with trail no. 3 where you will take a left towards Saltria. Trail no. 3 will eventually merge into trail no. 9 where you will have the option to go left or right. Be sure to follow trail no. 9 to the left.

Stay on trail no. 9 and then take a right onto trail no. 6B. This trail will slowly curve to the east until coming to Hartlweg. Like above, you can stay on 6B to take a break at the Malga Sanon if you wish or take a right to continue trekking across Alpe di Siusi.

Hartlweg will lead you to trail no. 9 where you will take a left. Follow trail no. 9 all the way to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

The Langkofel Group from Alpe di Siusi — One of our favorite aspects of Alpe di Siusi is that the scenery is always changing as the clouds and sun move across the sky.

After you have enjoyed a hearty meal and glass of South Tyrolean wine or beer, set out for the return hike to Compatsch. It’s worth pointing out that you do not have to initially take trail no. 9 back if you don’t wish. Take a glance at your map and you will see other trails that will eventually bring you to trail no. 30 into Compatsch.

Bonus Hiking Option: Let Curiosity be Your Guide

Reaching the plateau and simply wandering trails as your heart sees fit is an enticing option for free-spirited souls. Many trails are accessible to all and marked as such that you can roam without ever getting lost.

Find a trail that loops if you’re set on trekking Alpe di Siusi without seeing the same sight twice. Just be sure to bring a map from the cable car station so you can estimate how long it will take to reach any given point that interests you.

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Additional Tips & Considerations

Make plans to explore Ortisei and the fascinating tradition of woodcarving in Val Gardena before or after hiking Alpe di Siusi.
The Parish Church of St. Ulrich in Ortisei is well worth a visit as well. Built in the late 1700s, the church’s red bulbous dome is easy to spot making it a beacon for history and architecture lovers. Its interior is among the most gorgeous we have ever seen. Precious frescoes, oil paintings and woodcarvings adorn every inch.

The Parish Church of Ortisei holds ornate works of art such as this mesmerizing and larger-than-life woodcarving of St. Ulrich by the famous sculptor Ludwig Moroder.

The Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm (the lift operates until 6 pm from mid-June to mid-October). The station begins operating in mid-May after ski season and closes again in early November before reopening for the ski season typically in December. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
Want to see the sunset on Alpe di Siusi? You’re in luck. Once per week in the summer the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station runs from 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm to allow evening walks and dinner at their restaurant. Review the night schedule to see if the dates align with your trip to South Tyrol.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Val Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways. Note: The Val Gardena card does not provide access to lifts based in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region.
If you wish to experience Alpe di Siusi when the meadows are in full bloom with wildflowers, time your visit from mid-June to mid-July.
Hiking isn’t the only way to enjoy Alpe di Siusi. If you’re a biking enthusiast, consider renting a mountain bike or e-bike. BAMBY rental is located right next to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station.
If you like the idea of enjoying Alpe di Siusi with a blanket of snow, plan on a visit from November through April.
The mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi are not open year-round. Be sure to review this mountain hut list and schedule prior to planning your hike.
Want to see cows lazily roaming the pastures of Alpe di Siusi? Visit the plateau beginning in mid-July. The cattle typically are driven up in early July and driven back down by mid-September when the food supply has dwindled.
Harness the natural energy of Alpe di Siusi to improve your wellbeing. Be sure to explore the wellness products originating from its meadows. Up to 80 different kinds of grass, herbs and flowers can found in just a handful of hay from Alpe di Siusi. Local companies like Trehs create natural cosmetic and wellness products based on the ancient wisdom passed down through the ages from the mountains of South Tyrol.
If you embark on a hike of Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch, don’t miss a visit to the historic gem of St. Valentin Chapel, which sits below the Schlern massif in Seis. Its steepled-beauty has graced the mountain backdrop since 1244.
The Alpe di Siusi holiday region contains many historic sights worth exploring such as the St. Valentin Chapel shown here.
Like all the regions of the Dolomites, Alpe di Siusi is shrouded in age-old legends. Witches long ago performed rituals on the plateau. You can embark on a spell-binding hike from Compatsch that takes you to the famous “Witches’ Benches”.
For additional Alpe di Siusi hikes of various themes, lengths and difficulty, check out the official Alpe di Siusi holiday region website.
For recommended hiking gear and clothing to wear while hiking Alpe di Siusi, access the guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Before any hike, pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

Have you embarked on your own Alpe di Siusi adventure? If so, let us know in the comments below any additional tips, insights and hikes worth sharing.

SAVE ALPE DI SIUSI TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD

The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol?

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

Discovering the best meal in South Tyrol is a bit like trying to find the best mountain view. Next to impossible. Just when you think you have it, another wonder lands in front of you. The area offers a savory cultural stew of Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine where your next meal could be Italian, Tyrolean, German or all three.

On a recent outing into the heart of the Dolomites, we found the perfect place to devour one of South Tyrol’s most popular traditional dishes. The Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut is a rugged yet inviting gem that sits off a trail in the largest Alpine prairie in Europe, Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm).

Rustic Goodness in the Heart of the Dolomites

As we approached the hut, a llama kept its eyes on us. We soon saw chickens, goats and rabbits darting around nearby. Ahh “true farm-to-table” I thought to myself, but then realized a small petting zoo also sat on the property.

We surrendered our weary legs to a table on the outdoor patio facing a wide open view of the Langkofel Group (Sassolungo in Italian), an awe-inspiring mass of Dolomite peaks that thunder over the prairie. The first time we saw this massif, its immensity jarred loose any notion of permanence one has on Earth. Taking a break to grab a meal under its stony guard seemed more like a command than a choice.

I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

Soon we were greeted by a young man in traditional Tyrolean garb to take our order. He looked built from the mountain. Kate was immediately smitten. She in no time learned his name, Walter. To ratchet up my manliness, I steered the conversation away and ordered a tall Forst beer (Forst is a South Tyrolean brewery located near Merano. They produce a nice light-styled lager that quenches one’s thirst after a good hike). Walter chatted with us a bit longer and we discovered that when he is not taming appetites on the mountain he races horses. Of course, he does I thought to myself. I was immediately left wishing I had ordered three Forsts.

Speckknödelsuppe: A Dish So Tough to Say…it Has to Be Easy to Eat

We browsed through a wooden-clad menu showcasing homemade South Tyrolean specialties. My grumbling stomach locked in on Speckknödelsuppe. The name looked tough. It had to be good. Besides, the name rang a bell.

I recalled reading that Speckknödelsuppe translates to bacon dumpling soup. It is a South Tyrolean classic made with speck, a cured, lightly-smoked ham resembling bacon or proscuitto, and knödel, which is a bread dumpling. Making speck follows age-old principles of using a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air.

By the way, this smoked ham is so revered in South Tyrol that there is an annual speck celebration in Val di Funes called none other than Speckfest.

The tradition of South Tyrolean dumplings goes back to medieval times. A fresco from the 13th century graces a wall in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle. It shows a man cooking and eating knödel. Any recipe to survive centuries of war and famine must be divine.

The Soup You Devour with a Fork

My bowl of Speckknödelsuppe arrived just as I finished my last gulp of beer. Naturally, I ordered another. The dish consisted of two baseball-size dumplings in a steamy broth. All made from local ingredients. In no time, I dove in by cutting into the soft, compact lumps with a fork. I recalled that using a knife is an insult to the chef. Not something I am about to do on this mountain.

The cut dumpling revealed an aroma of fresh Alpine herbs. On my first bite, I enjoyed a medley of chive, onion and parsley flavors among bits of smoky speck. I took my time with each bite that followed. Nothing could have distracted me from this Alpine glory. Not the breathtaking views of the Dolomites. And not the sobbing child nearby who learned farm chickens are not for petting.

Though the two dumplings plopped in my bowl seemed like a dainty meal at first glance, each Speckknödel packed a serious punch. Leaving the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige hungry was never a concern. And that was before we indulged on some apple strudel. I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

South Tyrol offers several knödel variations including Speckknödel dumplings without broth. Another popular dish, Knödel Tris, consists of three different dumpling varieties: one with speck, one with cheese and one with spinach. Those with a sweet tooth will want to try dessert knödel — a delectable treat made with lush plums.

A Hearty South Tyrolean Hike is Calling You

Every hearty hike should be followed by a meal of equal heartiness. Words every wanderer should no doubt live by. Fortunately, when you’re trekking through some of the mightiest mountains on the planet, embarking on such a hearty culinary adventure is as natural as your next step. Make Speckknödelsuppe your go-to dish the next time hunger calls in South Tyrol.

Seiser Alm Hiker — Alpine superfood? Conquering mountains seems far less formidable after devouring a bowl of Speckknödelsuppe!

And if you’re venturing into Seiser Alm, be sure to visit the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut. Whether you’re dining or just having a drink, its rustic ambiance and panoramic views are the idyllic setting to unwind for a bit. If Walter happens to be your gracious host, tell him hello from Throne & Vine!

If you want to bring the Dolomites into your home (why wouldn’t you?!), check out our post about the cookbook every mountain lover should own.

To learn more about the fascinating flavors of South Tyrol and this Alpine wonderland crowning northern Italy, be sure to subscribe to our email updates in the sidebar.

Hiking Where Witches Once Roamed in South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 29 Comments

Autumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.

Hiking Alpe Di Siusi in the Dolomites — Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm) offers striking mountain views and bloodcurdling tales.

With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.

A part of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet brooding image for any trekker. But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.

He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil.

According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday on the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms around the mountain.

Schlern Mountain in South Tyrol — Schlern – South Tyrol’s Witches’ Mountain.

Hikers can visit the hallowed site, referred to as “Witches’ Benches”, where rock formations resemble spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if these are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.

A Witch’s Curse

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky.

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history. In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine local women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake.

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays.

Prosels Castle in South Tyrol — Prösels Castle was once the site of witch trials in South Tyrol.

Have Broom Will Travel

Getting to the Schlern Mountain is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German) heavily promotes the area’s witch heritage. Visitors to this Alpine village can find witch wood carvings and many themed shops and restaurants not to mention the occasional black cat wandering its cobblestone streets.

Hexenkeller Castelrotto — Restaurants such as the Hexenkeller in Castelrotto embrace the darker side of the Dolomites.

Hexenstühle — While in Castelrotto, we did indeed spot a witch in the sky!

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although it is accessible year-round. The witching hours of October make an ideal time to explore how land and legend weave together to create stories that stir one’s darkest fears.

The immense Schlern massif forms an unforgettable background for a walk to the Witches’ Benches. It’s easy to see why this mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land. The Benches are about 1.5 hours from Compatsch (Compaccio), a settlement on the west end of the prairie near Castelrotto.

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart. But in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury…

“Beware the autumn people…Where do they come from? The dust. Where do they go? The grave. Does blood stir in their veins? No: the night wind. What ticks in their head? The worm. What speaks from their mouth? The toad. What sees from their eyes? The snake. What hears with their ear? The abyss between the stars. They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles- breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.”

Seiser Alm

Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

A Hike All Can Enjoy

Where is Alpe di Siusi?

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #1