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Seiser Alm

The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol?

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iconDiscovering the best meal in South Tyrol is a bit like trying to find the best mountain view. Next to impossible. Just when you think you have it, another wonder lands in front of you. The area offers a savory cultural stew of Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine where your next meal could be Italian, Tyrolean, German or all three.

On a recent outing into the heart of the Dolomites, we found the perfect place to devour one of South Tyrol’s most popular traditional dishes. The Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut is a rugged yet inviting gem that sits off a trail in the largest Alpine prairie in Europe, Seiser Alm (also known as Alpe di Siusi).

Rustic Goodness in the Heart of the Dolomites

As we approached the hut, a llama kept its eyes on us. We soon saw chickens, goats and rabbits darting around nearby. Ahh “true farm-to-table” I thought to myself, but then realized a small petting zoo also sat on the property.

We surrendered our weary legs to a table on the outdoor patio facing a wide open view of the Langkofel Group (Sassolungo in Italian), an awe-inspiring mass of Dolomite peaks that thunder over the prairie. The first time we saw this massif, its immensity jarred loose any notion of permanence one has on Earth. Taking a break to grab a meal under its stony guard seemed more like a command than a choice.

I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

Soon we were greeted by a young man in traditional Tyrolean garb to take our order. He looked built from the mountain. Kate was immediately smitten. She in no time learned his name, Walter.  To up my manliness, I steered the conversation away and ordered a tall Forst beer (Forst is a South Tyrolean brewery located near Merano. They produce a nice light-styled lager that quenches one’s thirst after a good hike). Walter chatted with us a bit longer and we discovered that when he is not taming appetites on the mountain he races horses. Of course he does I thought to myself. I was immediately left wishing I had ordered three Forsts.

A Dish So Tough to Say…it Has to Be Easy to Eat

We browsed through a wooden-clad menu showcasing homemade South Tyrolean specialties. My grumbling stomach locked in on Speckknödelsuppe. The name looked tough. It had to be good. Besides, the name rang a bell.

I recalled reading that Speckknödelsuppe translates to bacon dumpling soup. It is a South Tyrolean classic made with speck, a cured, lightly-smoked ham resembling bacon or proscuitto, and knödel, which is a bread dumpling. Making speck follows age-old principles of using a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air.

The tradition of South Tyrolean dumplings goes back to medieval times. A fresco from the 13th century graces a wall in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle. It shows a man cooking and eating knödel. Any recipe to survive centuries of war and famine must be divine.

Hocchenpan Castle South Tyrol

Hocchenpan Castle Knodel Painting

The Soup You Devour with a Fork

My bowl of Speckknödelsuppe arrived just as I finished my last gulp of beer. Naturally, I ordered another. The dish consisted of two baseball size dumplings in a steamy broth. All made from local ingredients. In no time, I dove in by cutting into the soft, compact lumps with a fork. I recalled that using a knife is an insult to the chef. Not something I am about to do on this mountain.

Speckknodelsuppe and Forst beerThe cut dumpling revealed an aroma of fresh Alpine herbs. On my first bite, I enjoyed a medley of chive, onion and parsley flavors among bits of smoky speck. I took my time with each bite that followed. Nothing could have distracted me from this Alpine glory. Not the breathtaking views of the Dolomites. And not the sobbing child nearby who learned farm chickens are not for petting.

Though the two dumplings plopped in my bowl seemed like a dainty meal at first glance, each Speckknödel packed a serious punch. Leaving the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige hungry was never a concern. And that was before we indulged on some apple strudel. I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

South Tyrol offers several knödel variations including Speckknödel dumplings without broth. Another popular dish, Knödel Tris, consists of three different dumpling varieties: one with speck, one with cheese and one with spinach. Those with a sweet tooth will want to try dessert knödel — a delectable treat made with lush plums.

A Hearty South Tyrolean Hike is Calling You

Every hearty hike should be followed by a meal of equal heartiness. Words every wanderer should no doubt live by.  Fortunately, when you’re trekking through some of the mightiest mountains on the planet, embarking on such a hearty culinary adventure is as natural as your next step. Make Speckknödelsuppe your go-to dish the next time hunger calls in South Tyrol.

Seiser Alm Hiker
Alpine superfood? Conquering mountains seems far less formidable after devouring a bowl of Speckknödelsuppe!

And if you’re venturing into Seiser Alm, be sure to visit the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut. Whether you’re dining or just having a drink, its rustic ambiance and panoramic views are the idyllic setting to unwind for a bit. If Walter happens to be your gracious host, tell him hello from Throne & Vine!

If you want to bring the Dolomites into your home (why wouldn’t you?!), check out our post about the cookbook every mountain lover should own.

To learn more about the fascinating flavors of South Tyrol and this Alpine wonderland crowning northern Italy, be sure to subscribe to our email updates.

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Hiking Where Witches Once Roamed in South Tyrol

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Schlern Witches of South Tyrol

iconAutumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.

Hiking Alpe Di Siusi in the Dolomites
Seiser Alm offers striking mountain views and bloodcurdling tales.

With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.

A part of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Seiser Alm (“Alpe di Siusi”) – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape.  A beautiful yet brooding image for any trekker. But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.

He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil.

According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday on the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms around the mountain.

Schlern Mountain in South Tyrol
Schlern – South Tyrol’s Witches Mountain

Hikers can visit the hallowed site, referred to as “Witches’ Benches”, where rock formations resemble spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if these are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.

A Witch’s Curse

A story still told today in Seiser Alm is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky. 

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Schlern Witches of Seiser Alm

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history. In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine local women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake. 

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays. 

Prosels Castle in South Tyrol
Prösels Castle was once the sight of witch trials in South Tyrol

Have Broom Will Travel

Getting to the Schlern Mountain is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car near the villages of Ortisei (Mont Seuc cable car) or Castelrotto (Alpe Di Siusi cable car).

Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German) heavily promotes the area’s witch heritage. Visitors to this Alpine village can find witch wood carvings and many themed shops and restaurants not to mention the occasional black cat wandering its cobblestone streets.

Hexenkeller Castelrotto
Restaurants such as the Hexenkeller in Castelrotto embrace the darker side of the Dolomites.
Hexenstühle
While in Castelrotto, we did indeed spot a witch in the sky!

The best time to hike all around Seiser Alm without snow is late May through September. Although it is accessible year round. The witching hours of October make an ideal time to explore how land and legend weave together to create stories that stir one’s darkest fears. 

The immense Schlern massif forms an unforgettable background for a walk to the Witches’ Benches. It’s easy to see why this mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.  The Benches are about 1.5 hours from Compaccio, a settlement on the west end of the prairie near Castelrotto.

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart. But in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury…

“Beware the autumn people…Where do they come from? The dust. Where do they go? The grave. Does blood stir in their veins? No: the night wind. What ticks in their head? The worm. What speaks from their mouth? The toad. What sees from their eyes? The snake. What hears with their ear? The abyss between the stars. They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles- breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.” 

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Witches of South Tyrol