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Merano

The Merano Grape Festival: Harvesting A Hearty Good Time in South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

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For those that think they know how to revel in autumn, think again. Discover why the Merano Grape Festival is the must-attend harvest celebration of the Alps.

IF WE WERE to pick one season to visit South Tyrol it would be autumn. Fall stamps a mountain-size exclamation point on all the enchanting elements that make this corner of Italy so alluring.

From the blazing foliage setting the mountainsides afire to the blissful fragrance of pluck-ready fruit perfuming the trails, the hand of autumn beautifies South Tyrol’s scenery more than any other season.

But do you know what we love even more than the pronounced natural beauty? How autumn enlivens the festive spirit of South Tyroleans.

Whether feasting your heart out in a timbered Buschenschank during Törggelen, relishing the best-smoked ham in the world beneath the thundering drama of the Dolomites or indulging in a bounty of other harvest festivals, a visit in fall leaves you with one impression above all: the people of South Tyrol know how to throw a party.

This jovial nature was never more apparent to us than this past October when we attended the annual Merano Grape Festival (also known as Traubenfest Meran and Festa dell’Uva Merano). In this post, we show you why experiencing the revelry of South Tyrol’s grandest fest is a must.

History of the Merano Grape Festival

Traditional attire and hearty laughter are on full display at the Merano Grape Festival.

The Merano Grape Festival is the oldest harvest festival in South Tyrol. The celebration has a vibrant history dating back more than 130 years.

Each year since 1886, South Tyroleans have gathered the third weekend in October in Merano to salute a bountiful grape harvest. Over the course of three days, the city comes alive with traditional music, food and drink entwined with the fascinating folklore of South Tyrol’s wine-growing culture.

Through the decades, the Merano Grape Festival has surged in popularity attracting up to 20,000 revelers each year from around the world. Such festive luster shines welcoming light on the stellar wines of Italy’s smallest wine-growing region.

What to Expect at the Merano Grape Festival

The Merano Grape Festival boasts a fun-filled program spanning three days. Fest-goers can delight in a cultural experience teeming with entertainment.

Each day offers a multitude of outdoor concerts as well as culinary stands brimming with the seasonal specialties of South Tyrol. Most of these festival activites take place in the plazas and promenades near the Passer River.

Admission to the festival is free. However, special events like wine tastings and yodeling workshops require a ticket. Yes, you can try mastering the art of yodeling while in Merano!

The Merano Grape Festival Grand Parade

The highlight of the festival is the Grand Parade that takes place Sunday afternoon. The one-plus-hour long procession is unlike any parade we have seen before.

The Grand Parade illuminates the flower-framed avenues of old town Merano with lushly decorated floats and carriages led by South Tyrol’s famous Haflinger horses. In fact, it is the only horse-drawn parade in all of the Alps.

In between the 40+ floats, marching bands from communities around Merano fill the air with song. In addition, the parade proudly showcases Schützen — members of a voluntary organization honoring the storied heritage of rifleman defending South Tyrol’s independence.

The parade even includes a glamorous appearance by Merano’s most famous resident: Sissi, the beloved Empress Elisabeth of Austria. In the 19th-century her beauty and affection for Merano was unrivaled.

The most spectacular sight we saw during the parade was a hulking bunch of grapes hung from a log carried by two men. Second to that was a mighty crown made of red and gold apples from South Tyrol.

Feasting with Festival Royalty

Prior to the parade, revelers and local residents alike feast in the Festplatz — a garden draped in vines tinged with autumn’s kiss. Here, you will mingle with ladies and gents donning time-honored Tyrolean attire while listening to live folk music.

Having fun at Merano Grape Festival
South Tyrol Strauben

Being able to admire the ornate costumes and hats up close is as fun as watching the parade itself. The Festplatz is also a great place to socialize with other fest-goers. We spoke with a friendly couple from Germany who left us even more merry than our glasses of wine.

This bustling area of the Merano Grape Festival is sponsored by the Schützenkompanie Meran (SSKM) so you are certain to find a hearty fall dish to your liking. But as we learned, make sure to leave room for South Tyrolean Strauben. It is not to be missed.

Where to Stay for the Merano Grape Festival

Given how popular the Merano Grape Festival has become we recommend booking accommodations in Merano so you can easily reach the old town center on foot. You will want to avoid dealing with heavy vehicle traffic — especially on Sunday when some roads close for the Grand Parade.

Here are some of our top Merano Grape Festival accommodation recommendations in the heart of Merano:

Hotel Therme Meran (Terme Merano) – This modern luxury spa resort sits in the middle of Merano along the Passer river. It is connected by tunnel to a stunning thermal spa and park where the pools possess healing properties thanks to mineral-rich water sourced from nearby Mt. Vigiljoch.

Hotel Aurora – Perched right on the Passer Promenade, Hotel Aurora is a family-owned gem with a location that cannot be beaten for the festival. The flower-drenched balconies offering sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and river below.

If you do not mind trekking a bit (20-40 minutes) to reach Merano, consider the following stays:

Hotel Erika – Located in the nearby village of Dorf Tirol, Hotel Erika is a jaw-dropping wellness oasis beaming from a mountainside amid vineyards and castles. You can easily reach Merano by taking the ravishing Tappeiner Promenade. This epic path is steps away from Hotel Erika.

Hotel Ansitz Plantitscherhof – Set conveniently in a regal neighborhood between Merano and the must-see Gardens of Trauttmansdorff, this boutique-style beauty wows guests with a rooftop spa and the opportunity to rent classic automobiles. Imagine cruising the Alps in a vintage Alfa Romero!

Of course, staying within walking distance of Merano is not necessary to visit the Merano Grape Festival. You might find it more convenient and affordable to book a cozy stay in neighboring Lana at the Landhaus am Gries or in Naturns at the Preidlhof Luxury Spa Resort. Public buses frequently run to Merano from these towns.

Tips for Attending the Merano Grape Festival

Wine and beer connoisseurs alike will find plenty to sample at the Merano Grape Festival.

The Merano Grape Festival is still scheduled to take place in 2020. This year will be an abbreviated festival running from October 17-18.

No doubt all of the health and safety measures we have become accustomed to over the last several months will be in force during the event. But unfortunately, the Grand Parade will not be rolling over the cobblestones this year. The Merano tourism website states festival officials are hopeful it will return in 2021.

If you plan to attend the Merano Grape Festival in the future, we recommend the following:

  • Book your hotel accommodations early
  • Once in Merano, visit the Merano tourist office for a map of the town and to obtain the festival program guide. The staff will also gladly answer any questions and share any special events you might like
  • Find a spot on the curb at least 30 minutes before the parade begins
  • If you are not staying within walking distance of Merano, make reservations for dinner in town after the parade. This will allow the crowds to thin out so you can avoid traffic delays

We would like to give special thanks to the Merano Tourist Office for going above and beyond in helping us highlight the Merano Grape Festival for our readers!


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Filed Under: Alto Adige Wines, South Tyrol Festivals & Events Tagged With: Autumn, Festivals, Merano

The Must-See Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff in Autumn

iconItaly isn’t short on wine or gardens. For more than 2,000 years elegantly-cultivated gardens have flourished across the land. Gardens were held in such high regard by the ancient Romans that the philosopher Marcus Tullius Cicero stated: If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need. 

Hard to argue with such age-old wisdom.

While the magnificent gardens in Rome or Florence may come to mind when you seek out the lushness of Italy, you really should turn your attention much further north to South Tyrol. Here lies one of the most splendid gardens in all of Europe: the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle in Merano.

Nestled on a mountainside basking under the wooing glow of the Mediterranean sun, the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle are a wanderer’s dream. Trails wind through nearly 30 acres flush with local and exotic flora and woodland from all over the world. The gardens’ ingenious design and layout create a fascinating juxtaposition between natural, historic and modern elements. Practically every inch of earth here is designed to set your senses afire.

Is it a must-see? Without a doubt.

The Gardens of Eternal Bloom

Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle in Merano, Italy

For us, the best gardens tell a story. And the tale these majestic gardens tell could have been spun from the goddess of gardens herself. The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle immerse you in eternal bloom through four themed garden worlds: The Sun Gardens, Forests of the World, The Water & Terraced Gardens and Landscapes of South Tyrol. 

Walking through the gardens one wonders if there is a plant on Earth not here.

With the Trauttmansdorff Castle as a medieval centerpiece, the gardens feature four circuit trails through 83 garden landscapes. Three panoramic paths also allow you to soak in striking views of the valley below and the surrounding snow-dusted mountains.

Walking through the gardens one wonders if there is a plant on Earth not here. You can go from passing under arcaded grapevines to frolicking through deep chestnut woodlands and olive and lemon groves to strolling around desert succulents and bamboo forests all within 2-3 hours. The immense amount of sights to explore always leaves us wishing we had more time.

Grape arbors at Trauttmansdorff Gardens

Beyond the 5,800+ different flora species and varieties, you can also admire various artist pavilions, experience stations, waterfalls and an array of animals including prancing peacocks, colorful macaws, friendly rabbits, and not-as friendly goats. The castle itself serves as the South Tyrol Museum of Tourism, which presents a captivating history of Alpine tourism spanning 200 years.

The gardens also host open-air concerts featuring entertainers from all over the world. Although we have not been lucky enough to attend a concert yet, the setting looks divine as the stage floats over a water lily pond with palm trees silhouetting the horizon.

The History of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

The Trauttmansdorff Castle was first mentioned around 1300. Known then as Neuberg, it is home to a couple of legends. One tells that the castle was built on the site where Saint Valentine lived as a hermit in the 5th century. Another legend proclaims the fortress was part of the fortifications of the Roman settlement in Late Antiquity called “Castrum Maiense”, which became Merano. Walls from the Middle Ages along with crypts are still standing on the southwest side of the castle. 

If the Earth laughs in flowers as Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote then The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is perhaps the happiest place on the planet.

In 1543, Nicholas von Trauttmansdorff took possession of the castle; however, it fell into ruin over a few centuries until another Trauttmansdorff came to its rescue. In 1850, Count Joseph von Trauttmansdorff bought the crumbling stronghold and began renovations in neo-Gothic style.

Sissi statue at Trauttmansdorff CastleThese architectural updates must have been quite impressive. Empress Elisabeth of Austria (known as Sissi) spent 7 months at the castle beginning in 1870. She had such an affinity for the castle’s beauty a bronze bust was dedicated to her after she was assassinated in 1898.

Today, you can take a pleasant stroll to the castle from the heart of Merano by following Sissi’s Path, which connects to what we consider the most enchanting walk in Italy.

During World War II, the castle was a German military encampment. Due to the ravages of war, almost all of its furnishings were lost and the castle once again began to decay. Fast forward several decades and the castle along with all of its land became the property of the provincial government of Bolzano. In the late 80s, several visionaries and garden enthusiasts came together with a plan to restore the castle and cultivate a botanical garden rivaling the greatest in Europe. They succeeded.

In 2001, The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle was opened to the public. This South Tyrol treasure has since won multiple awards including the designation as Italy’s Most Beautiful Garden in 2005 and the prestigious International Garden of the Year award in 2013.

Now that you know a bit of history of the castle, let’s dive into some of our favorite highlights from our visits.

Sweeping Panoramas that Steal Your Breath

The mountainside setting of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is a gift to those who love epic vistas. Several places throughout the gardens offer breathtaking stretches of land and sky that will make you click happy with your camera. Our suggestion is to snap a few pics and then fully take it in with your eyes. These are views you will not forget.

Trauttmansdorff Gardens Panorama View

The Matteo Thun Viewing Platform is an especially surreal experience. It “floats” over the gardens allowing your eyes to feast on the vast grandeur unfolding before you. At these heights, it’s easy to spot other South Tyrolean landmarks in the distance.

The Matteo Thun Viewing Platform at Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle offers heart-pounding views.
The Matteo Thun Viewing Platform at Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle offers heart-pounding views.

Awash in Oceans of Petals

If the Earth laughs in flowers as Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote then the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is perhaps the happiest place on the planet. Flower buffs will have a field day a here. No pun intended.

On each of our visits, we have encountered everything from endless rows of tulips to fields of daffodils to roses in vivid bloom along with countless other flower species. The vast amount of colors that dance across your eyes is bedazzling. And the flowery fragrance you inhale as you roam about is intoxicating.

Trauttmansdorff Gardens Tulips

A flowering tree at the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Mountain flowers in bloom

Trauttmansdorff Gardens during the spring time

Kate pausing to smell a flower

Trees from Around the World

The only thing more abundant than flowers at the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is trees. The gardens showcase woodland varieties from all over the world. We really admire the cypress trees that spring skyward from the Sun Gardens World. They bring about an even more regal presence to the castle backdrop. 

One of the things we love most about the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is that it fully immerses you in natural wonders in new ways.

Equally enchanting are the gardens’ olive and lemon groves. It has been said the best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The second best time is now. Lucky for us some medieval visionary planted an olive tree 700 years ago that now thrives below the castle. This ancient tree stands among Italy’s northernmost olive grove. Its old, twisted form greets you from a path as if it’s about to impart some sage wisdom.

The bamboo forest is also fascinating especially if you’ve never been to the Far East. Experiencing the bamboo area provides a peek into how Asian cultures harness the trees for materials. And let’s not forget the towering palm trees. They are massive. We almost wanted to slip on beach sandals the first time we saw the gardens’ Mediterranean giants.

A 700-year old olive tree in South Tyrol
A medieval visionary planted an olive tree 700 years ago that now thrives below the Trauttmansdorff Castle.

An olive grove in Merano

A massive palm tree at the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Adam and Eve picking an apple at the gardens
Vin giving these two a boost as they pluck fruit from a tree.

Experience Nature in Remarkable New Ways

One of the things we love most about the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is that it fully immerses you in natural wonders in new ways. From a multimedia Grotto to a Garden of Love, Botanical Underworld and much more, the gardens creatively capture your imagination and elevate your senses beyond expectations.

At the gardens, you can even summon a mountain spirit to experience a healing massage through a sounding stone. This involves surrendering your head to the mountain through a cavity and humming. The sounding stone reveals when you have hummed the right tone by sending soothing vibrations throughout your body. Such stones were used in ancient cultures to support healing and wellness.

Make sure to also trek to the Aviary high above the castle. Here, you admire ever chatty parrots in an environment that feels as if you wandered into a jungle.

Where's Kate in the garden maze?
Where’s Kate?

Being hard headed pays off. Experiencing the ancient wonders of sounding stones.
Being hard headed pays off. Experiencing the ancient wonders of sounding stones.

Garden of Love
A couple pauses to take a selfie in the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle’s “Garden of Love”.

When to Explore the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Bringing the gardens to life and maintaining their beauty each year is no easy feat. More than 100 employees work through spring, summer and fall to ensure the promise of natural grandeur for every visitor. Good luck finding a weed.

The Trauttmansdorff team keeps the gardens open from the end of March to the middle of November. We have been to the gardens in the spring and fall. Both seasons here are equally magical. The sweet aromas of bloom and harvest follow your every step.

For us, we find the spring season the most enjoyable time to visit. Few things enliven you like the awakening of flora after a long winter slumber.

While you can cover the gardens in 2-3 hours, plan to spend a morning or afternoon exploring its glory. Each time we visit we dine afterward at the Schlossgarten Restaurant, which is located at the castle and offers lovely views of the gardens below. The restaurant features local specialties and pasta dishes.

Perhaps it’s the Mediterranean ambiance, but we’ve always craved pasta after visiting. The Italian cuisine we’ve dined on at the Schlossgarten has always been wonderful. It’s also a good place to rest your legs and sip a Veneziano, a favorite cocktail of the region.

Sipping on a Veneziano
The Schlossgarten Restaurant offers a lovely setting for a meal and a refreshing Veneziano or two.

How to Visit the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Reaching the gardens is easy by foot, car or bus. As mentioned previously, you can walk the well-marked Sissi’s Path. It begins in downtown Merano and winds through the lovely Maia Alta neighborhood, which is dotted with castles, villas and other stately residences. The walk takes roughly 45 minutes. Plan for an hour if you like to meander like us!

If you have a rental car and are staying outside of Merano’s city center, parking is available for €3.50/day across from the gardens. Once you’ve parked you will take a footbridge over the highway to reach the ticket center.

To visit the gardens by bus you will take Line 1 or Line 1B depending on the day of the week you choose to come. We suggest confirming which line and checking the times by visiting the SASA bus service site.

The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff is open 7 days a week. The hours vary by season. You can look up the times by visiting their official website.  Ticket prices are quite reasonable at €13.00. Kids 6 and under are free. Seniors receive a discounted price of €10.50.

As you can see the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle are a botanical and architectural masterpiece. A true jewel of Europe. If you are planning a visit to South Tyrol you need to add them to your itinerary. You will not regret making time to wander here.

Filed Under: Get to Know South Tyrol, South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure Tagged With: Gardens of Trauttmansdorff, Merano, South Tyrol Hikes, South Tyrol Historic Sights

The Tappeiner Promenade – Italy’s Most Enchanting Walk

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

Merano, Italy
icon

Imagine breezing lazily by dramatic Alpine scenery that tumbles into lush Mediterranean landscapes ripe with vineyards, orchards and palms — all held under the spell of castles, spires and the wooing Italian sun.

Sound tempting? Welcome to the Tappeiner Promenade in Merano, Italy.

This South Tyrolean jewel is blessed from mountain peak to mountain peak with so much rich history and natural splendor you could meander from dusk to dawn never tiring of its beauty.

In this post, we show you how to enjoy the Tappeiner Promenade from beginning to end. As you’ll see, whether visiting in spring, summer or fall, walking the promenades of Merano ravishes your senses no matter the season.

In fact, we found our first stroll so enchanting, we return time and time again. We bet you’ll do the same.

Settling in Merano

Merano famously basks in 300-days of sunshine a year, but a rainy mist greeted us on our first visit. October clouds hung stubbornly low in the afternoon sky.

However, this unexpected gloom did not dampen the sight of Hotel Partaneshof, our home for the next few days. Its inviting chalet-like character would have charmed us even in a storm.

Hotel Garni Partaneshof in Merano
The balcony of Hotel Partaneshof gave us a front-row seat to an autumn sky set ablaze by the sun.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offered us an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona earlier in the week.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of wine from the Partaneshof cellar. After traveling a better part of the day, unwinding with a South Tyrolean wine sounded better than unpacking.

Our room came with a balcony bestowing a wide-open view of the Texel Mountains. We lounged back in chairs and savored the panorama over a glass of Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). If there was a better place to sit and ponder how to spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was perfect.

Hotel Partaneshof in Merano
Settling in Merano with wine, views and a Cuban.

Prior to arriving, we read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade — a popular 2.5-mile path offering sweeping views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures posted, we agreed. Besides, a long, carefree walk amid the Italian Alps was a natural remedy after a day hunkered in a car.

Finding the Tappeiner Promenade

In the morning, a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast of mountain-born cold cuts, freshly baked bread and yogurt topped with local berries met a quick end at our table. While it was tempting to linger in the sunlight pouring over the terrace, the desire to explore kept us moving.

Tappeiner Weg

We were uncertain how to begin our walk on the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running north above Merano along the face of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know the path loomed several hundred feet upslope from our hotel.

The map noted multiple places to enter the promenade, but Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town. Taking this route would allow us to experience nearly all of Merano’s promenades. She suggested first roaming the Passer Promenade then crossing the Passer River to the Summer Promenade. From there, connecting with the Gilf Promenade and finally Tappeiner.

The Passer Promenade – A Regal River Walk

The Evangelical Church of Christ rests next to the Passer River.

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River reveling along the Passer Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of the year but is especially delightful in the winter when its sunny exposure washes away the chill.

The first architectural marvel we came across was the Evangelical Church of Christ. Built in 1883, its spire storms into the sky like a mountain peak all its own. But even more impressive was the grove of giant birch trees arching over the bastion of beautifully chiseled stone.

We continued on past processions of palm trees, flower beds and bustling riverside cafes until encountering another masterpiece of Merano — the Kurhaus. The largest Art Nouveau building in Alps, the Kurhaus arose in the 1800s as a venue for aristocratic mingling.

Kurhaus in Merano
The Kurhaus crowns the Passer promenade before the Ponte della Posta bridge.

Today, it hosts concerts in addition to an array of cultural events from wine tastings to conventions. The ornate details and tall portico columns paint a vivid picture of what Merano must have been like when royals held sway over the land.

Just beyond the Kurhaus, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. Together, the light posts mark the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, a bridge beautified with a wrought-iron balustrade showcasing sunlit fleur de lis and grapevine motifs.

Merano Passer River

We crossed the bridge, pausing to appreciate the roving fury of the river from both sides. Once across, we spotted the Summer Promenade beginning to our left.

But before venturing down it, the austere face of the 15th century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito caught our curiosity. Its bleak exterior amid the spectacle of Merano lured us in for a brief visit.

Church of Santo Spirito in Merano
Rebuilt in 1483 after being ravished by a flood, the Church of Santo Spirito is a Gothic relic inside and out.

Inside, three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes reverently conceived more than 700 years ago. These precious historical treasures lit by candle flame hauntingly held our gaze. We always find such places possessing alluring energy — where past and present harmonize in a timeless stillness.

The church was first built in 1271 by the will of Count Mainardo II, a ruler often regarded as the true founder of Tyrol. A flooding Passer river destroyed it in 1419, but the church was rebuilt in 1483 in its present conformation.

The Summer Promenade – The Footsteps of an Empress

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”.

Empress Sissi Statue
A beauty for the ages. The statue of Sissi greets you at the start of the Summer Promenade.

Empress Elisabeth was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliffside.

Sissi adored Merano. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. An early pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Summer Promenade in Merano
Bike ride in Merano
Merano Summer Promenade

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was cherished by Sissi. Thus it’s fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk.

While the Passer Promenade bathed us in heavenly sunlight the Summer Promenade’s soaring sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into the forested realm.

Under the canopy, nature put on a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leaves. As we walked, the path gently sloped closer to the Passer. The river splashed rhythmically over rocks joining a choir of birds lost in song.

Across the Ponte Romano

The Summer Promenade is not long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the mighty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

Ponte Romano Bridge in Merano
The mighty stonework of the 400-year-old Ponte Romano Bridge carries you to the Gilf Promenade.

We paused midway to again admire the river roaring underneath. On the right side, a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge.

Forged in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned. But don’t fret. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another fortress to visit is far from difficult.

The Gilf Promenade – Awash in Lushness

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Passer and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward.

But before making the ascent, we took time to watch kayakers brave the icy waters below. Their deftness in negotiating the torrent of boulders bordered on mystifying.

Ponte Romano Footbridge

Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The abundance of greenery around us was like walking into an open-air conservatory.

The morning’s dew under the sun illuminated untold luxuriant subtropical plants, sweetly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. It was quite clear. The Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudest from the Gilf Promenade.

We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliffside.

gilf promenade italy

After soaking in the sight, we walked on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork of an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

The Tappeiner Promenade – Serene Beauty Above Merano

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and the chain of snow-kissed mountains grasping the sky from the valley floor.

The promenade was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. His vision is a gift to visitors today. Immaculately manicured flower gardens litter the entire promenade amid stands of giant magnolias, cypresses, olive trees, palmettos and more. A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

Passer River Panorama

In addition to the breathtaking vistas riddled between the verdant veils, the Tappeiner Promenade offered us more remarkable sights as we ventured on.

We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steals a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

The first was a crenelated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

Pulvertum Powder Tower in Merano

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements, commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

Admiring the Steeple of St. Nicholas Church

We continued along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steal a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired at many points throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. We could discern details of its intricate clock and sundial.

St. Nicholas Church from the Tappeiner Promenade
The tower of the Church of St. Nicholas possesses such a lustrous presence that if the sun refused to shine, it would not surprise us if light still fell upon Merano.

From our experience, many medieval towers exhibit a similar look, but the Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. The exquisite vision, craftsmanship and artistry it took to build the church in the 13th and 14th century make it a medieval treasure to behold.

After several snap-happy moments with our camera, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels, stately villas and restaurants offering enticing seats to absorb the surroundings.

A Gathering of Scents

On many occasions along the promenades of Merano, we encountered savory scents from roses to grapes to pine. But the Kräutergarten (herb garden) dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Tucked just below the Tappeiner Promenade, the garden is flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants woven into the landscape.

Tappeiner Promenade Krautergarten

We floated through inhaling rosemary, thyme and other exotic aromas. The fragrant beds were calming; slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine with us. If there’s one place where you should linger longer in South Tyrol, it is on this walk.

Leafy Labyrinths

Eventually, the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grapevines now surrounded us from above and below.

Unlike the cliche image of Italian vineyards stiffly spanning rolling fields, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades, made from rustic porticos with only the foliage of the vine visible.

Walking the Tappeinerweg
Tappeiner Promenade Cedar Tree
Vineyards in Merano, Italy
Terraced vineyards run below and above the Tappeiner Promenade immersing you in a world of vines.

South Tyrol’s vine painted slopes amongst the pure white snow summits make vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from Bacchus. When the leaves of the vines softly sway in the breeze, you can be forgiven for thinking its the breath of the Gods upon them.

Paradise by Foot

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol
The Brunnenburg Castle beckons walkers from a cliff north of the Tappeiner Promenade.

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Castle Tirol, tempted from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, on a glacial moraine, the Brunnenburg Castle menaced with its multi-turreted tower. Both castles looked as if Tolkien himself had written them into the mountainside.

But before claiming their thrones, we came across an ivy-clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It too looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

Cafe Unterweger
Dine on the mountainside. Take a refreshing break at Cafe Unterweger.

We sat in Cafe Unterweger’s sunny patio clinging to the cliffside. The bountiful bloom of the Merano basin held our eyes. The scent of ripe fruit caressed Alpine winds bathing us in the sweet fragrance of harvest. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. The castle trek could wait. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view, we had found just the right place for it.

Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies in strollers to the elderly walking their dogs. As you can tell in this post, our favorite time to stroll the promenades is in the fall, but rest assured you will find them enchanting any time of year.

If enchantment is in your future, access our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library.  You’ll receive comprehensive guides on how to get the most out of your adventures in South Tyrol.

SAVE THE TAPPEINER PROMENADE TO YOUR TRAVEL PLANS

Tappeiner Promenade Guide

Filed Under: Get to Know South Tyrol, South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure, South Tyrol Trip Tips Tagged With: Merano, South Tyrol Hikes, South Tyrol Historic Sights, Tappeiner Promenade

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