Merano

Imagine breezing lazily by dramatic Alpine scenery that endlessly unfurls into lush Mediterranean melodies of vineyards, orchards and palms — all held under the spell of castles, spires and the wooing Italian sun.

Sound tempting? Welcome to the Tappeiner Promenade in Merano, Italy.

This South Tyrolean jewel is blessed from mountain peak to mountain peak with so much rich history and natural splendor you could meander from dusk to dawn never tiring of its beauty.

And guess what? The promenades of Merano are meant for just that.

In this post, we show you step-by-step how to enjoy the promenade from beginning to end. As you’ll see, whether visiting in spring, summer or fall, walking Merano ravishes your senses no matter the season.

In fact, we found our first stroll so enchanting, we return time and time again. We bet you’ll do the same.

A Misty Welcome

Merano famously basks in 300-days of sunshine a year, but a rainy mist greeted us on our first visit. October clouds hung stubbornly low in the afternoon sky. However, this unexpected gloom did not dampen the sight of Hotel Partaneshof, our home for the next few days. Its inviting chalet-like character would have charmed us even in a storm.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offered us an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona earlier in the week.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of wine from the Partaneshof cellar. After traveling a better part of the day, unwinding with a South Tyrolean wine sounded better than unpacking.

Our room came with a balcony bestowing a wide-open view of the Texel Mountains. We lounged back in chairs and savored the panorama over a glass of Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). If there was a better place to sit and ponder how to spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was perfect.

Prior to arriving, we read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade — a popular 2.5-mile path offering sweeping views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures posted, we agreed. Besides, a long walk the following day amid the Italian Alps was a natural remedy after a day hunkered in a car.

With our Merano itinerary made, we sat in silence as the evening sun finally prevailed. As quickly as it arose, we watched dusk’s burning embers magically light the mountain crests before flickering into darkness. The sunset was unlike any we had seen before or since.

Finding the Tappeiner Promenade

In the morning, a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast of mountain-born cold cuts, freshly baked bread and yogurt topped with local berries met a quick end at our table. While it was tempting to linger in the sunlight pouring over the terrace, our wanderlust hearts were aching to explore.

We were uncertain how to begin our walk on the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running north above Merano along the face of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know it was several hundred feet upslope from our hotel.

The map noted multiple places to enter the promenade, but Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town. Taking this route would allow us to enjoy nearly all of Merano’s promenades. She suggested first roaming the Passer Promenade then crossing the Passer River to the Summer Promenade. From there, connecting with the Gilf Promenade and finally Tappeiner.

The Passer Promenade – A Regal River Walk

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River reveling along the Passer Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of the year but is especially delightful in the winter when its sunny exposure washes away the chill.

The first architectural marvel we came across was the Evangelical Church of Christ. Built in 1883, its spire storms into the sky like a mountain peak all its own. But even more impressive was the grove of giant birch trees arching over the bastion of beautifully chiseled stone.

We continued on past processions of palm trees, flower beds and bustling riverside cafes until encountering another masterpiece of Merano — the Kurhaus. The largest Art Nouveau building in Alpine Europe, the Kurhaus arose in the 1800s as a venue for aristocratic mingling.

Today, it hosts concerts in addition to an array of cultural events from wine tastings to conventions. The ornate details and tall portico columns paint a vivid picture of what Merano must have been like when royals held sway over the land.

Just beyond the Kurhaus, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. Together, the light posts mark the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, a bridge beautified with a wrought-iron balustrade showcasing sunlit fleur de lis and grapevine motifs.

We crossed the bridge, pausing to appreciate the roving fury of the river from both sides. Once across, we spotted the Summer Promenade beginning to our left.

But before venturing down it, the austere face of the 15th century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito caught our curiosity. Its bleak exterior amid the spectacle of Merano lured us in for a brief visit.

Inside, three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes reverently conceived more than 700 years ago. These precious historical treasures lit by candle flame hauntingly held our gaze. We always find such places possessing alluring energy — where past and present harmonize in a timeless stillness.

The church was first built in 1271 by the will of Count Mainardo II, a ruler often regarded as the true founder of Tyrol. A flooding Passer river destroyed it in 1419, but the church was rebuilt in 1483 in its present conformation.

The Summer Promenade – The Footsteps of an Empress

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”.

Empress Elisabeth was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Sissi adored Merano. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. An early pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was cherished by Sissi. Thus it’s fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk.

While the Passer Promenade bathed us in heavenly sunlight the Summer Promenade’s soaring sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into the forested realm.

Under the canopy, nature put on a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leaves. As we walked, the path gently sloped closer to the Passer. The river splashed rhythmically over rocks joining a choir of birds lost in song.

Across the Ponte Romano

The Summer Promenade is not long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the mighty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

We paused midway to again admire the river roaring underneath. On the right side, a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge.

Forged in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned. But don’t fret. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another fortress to visit is far from difficult.

The Gilf Promenade – Awash in Lushness

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Passer and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward.

But before making the ascent, we took time to watch kayakers brave the icy waters below. Their deftness in negotiating the torrent of boulders bordered on mystifying.

Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The abundance of greenery around us was like walking into an open-air conservatory.

The morning’s dew under the sun illuminated untold luxuriant subtropical plants, sweetly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. It was quite clear. The Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudest from the Gilf Promenade.

We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliffside.

After soaking in the sight, we walked on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork of an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

The Tappeiner Promenade – Serene Beauty Above Merano

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and the chain of snow-kissed mountains grasping the sky from the valley floor.

The promenade was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. His vision is a gift to visitors today. Immaculately manicured flower gardens litter the entire promenade amid stands of giant magnolias, cypresses, olive trees, palmettos and more. A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

In addition to the breathtaking vistas riddled between the verdant veils, the Tappeiner Promenade offered us more remarkable sights as we ventured on.

The first was a crenelated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements, commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

Admiring the Steeple of St. Nicholas Church

We continued along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steal a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired at many points throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. We could discern details of its intricate clock and sundial.

From our experience, many medieval towers exhibit a similar look, but the Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. The exquisite vision, craftsmanship and artistry it took to build the church in the 13th and 14th century make it a medieval treasure to behold.

After several snap-happy moments with our camera, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels, stately villas and restaurants offering enticing seats to absorb the surroundings.

A Gathering of Scents

On many occasions along the promenades of Merano, we encountered savory scents from roses to grapes to pine. But the Kräutergarten (herb garden) dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Tucked just below the Tappeiner Promenade, the garden is flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants woven into the landscape.

We floated through inhaling rosemary, thyme and other exotic aromas. The fragrant beds were calming; slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine with us. If there’s one place where you should linger longer in South Tyrol, it is on this walk.

Leafy Labyrinths

Eventually, the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grapevines now surrounded us from above and below.

Unlike the cliche image of Italian vineyards stiffly spanning rolling fields, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades, made from rustic porticos with only the foliage of the vine visible.

South Tyrol’s vine painted slopes amongst the pure white snow summits make vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from Bacchus. When the leaves of the vines softly sway in the breeze, you can be forgiven for thinking its the breath of the Gods upon them.

Paradise by Foot

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Castle Tirol, tempted from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, on a glacial moraine, the Brunnenburg Castle menaced with its multi-turreted tower. Both castles looked as if Tolkien himself had written them into the mountainside.

But before claiming their thrones, we came across an ivy-clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It too looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

We sat in Cafe Unterweger’s sunny patio clinging to the cliffside. The bountiful bloom of the Merano basin held our eyes. The scent of ripe fruit caressed Alpine winds bathing us in the sweet fragrance of harvest. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. The castle trek could wait. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view, we had found just the right place for it.

Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies in strollers to the elderly walking their dogs. As you can tell in this post, our favorite time to stroll the promenades is in the fall, but rest assured you will find them enchanting any time of year.

If enchantment is in your future, access our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library.  You’ll receive comprehensive guides on how to get the most out of your adventures in South Tyrol.

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