Dolomites

Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

“Awe-inspiring.” “Breathtaking.” “Majestic.” All words you may have heard to describe Alpe di Siusi (also well known as Seiser Alm) — Europe’s most dramatic high mountain plateau. But the one you really need to know before visiting is “vast.”

Alpe di Siusi is immense. Picture an area even bigger than Manhattan looming thousands of feet above the valley floor of the Dolomites. A heart-pounding playground for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages and stripes, Alpe di Siusi sprawls over 34 square miles.

It’s a landscape of utter wild Alpine abandon tempered by a bounty of rolling meadows unlike anywhere else on the planet.

With 900 miles of hiking trails, you could spend an entire holiday in South Tyrol exploring the area. But if you’re like many travelers, you may only have set aside a day or two to visit this mountainous wonderland hidden near the heavens. If that’s the case, this guide is for you.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our free Alpe di Siusi hiking guide

We walk you through how to experience the most iconic scenery of Alpe di Siusi — the Sassolungo (Langkofel), Sassopiato (Plattkofel) and Schlern (Sciliar) massifs — in all their glory. You’ll also find a mountain load of tips such as where to eat and additional sights to consider as you plan your Alpe di Siusi adventure.

[cmtoc_table_of_contents]

A Hike All Can Enjoy

Hiking Around Schlern — An emblem of South Tyrol, Schlern Mountain with its famous Santner and Euringer peaks steals the show on your hike to Compatsch. The two stony towers are named after the first people to climb them.

The hiking route we highlight winds through the plateau past rustic farms, mountain huts and thickets of evergreens. The striking mountain panoramas of Alpe di Siusi never leave your sight. Each trail we recommend ascends easily making this itinerary ideal for any age and skill level. No matter the season of your visit you can embark on this trek.

We detail the hike from two different starting points and their nearby attractions so you can determine which one appeals to you the most. Select the one that aligns most conveniently with where you’re staying and your interests.

No matter where you choose to begin the hike, the route returns to your starting point. You’ll get to experience the dramatic difference between the mountains from opposite directions. Round trip will take you 4-5 hours.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds)

Where is Alpe di Siusi?

Before we jump into specifics on this hike, let us paint a clear picture of where Alpe di Siusi is located. The name of the plateau can cause some confusion for travelers as it also denotes a broader holiday region in the Dolomites.

Alpe di Siusi Map — Alpe di Siusi is easy to reach. The region is just 40 minutes from Bolzano or Brixen.

The Alpe di Siusi holiday region includes the plateau as well as villages and valleys lying far below to its north and west. Also often associated with the plateau is the holiday region of Val Gardena, which runs more to its east.

As we show below, both holiday regions serve as excellent launching points for hiking Alpe di Siusi. Whether beginning your hike from Val Gardena or Alpe di Siusi, the hiking route we cover is the same. The only difference being your starting and endpoint.

By the way, you do not need to base yourself in either holiday region to enjoy Alpe di Siusi while visiting South Tyrol. You can be on the plateau in only 40-60 minutes by car from Bolzano, Brixen or Merano.

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #1

Mont Seuc Cable Car — The Mont Sëuc Cable Car zips you to the top of the plateau in 10 minutes.

The first hiking option we cover involves setting out from Ortisei (St. Ulrich) in Val Gardena. From the heart of Ortisei, you will take the Mont Sëuc Cable Car (Mont Sëuc means Alpe di Siusi in Ladin). In a matter of minutes, you will be on top of the plateau. From here, you will embark across the plateau to the tiny village of Compatsch (Compaccio).

After departing the cable car station any doubts you may have had about hiking a “pasture” vanish. Few sights anywhere can rival the sky-bound beauty of the Sassolungo Group unfolding before your eyes.

Using the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Reach Alpe di Siusi

Here are the step-by-step directions to take the Mont Sëuc lift:

If arriving in Ortisei by car, you have a couple of parking options to consider. You can park in the underground garage at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station or at the underground “Garage Central” parking lot in the center of Ortisei. From Garage Central it is just a 5-minute walk through town and over a foot/bike bridge to the station. Both parking areas are nicely located if you intend to also explore Ortisei.
Once at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, purchase a round trip ticket. The current cost is €19,90 per person.
To reach the cable car boarding area, insert the ticket into the turnstile ticket slot to gain access. Then wait for a station staff member to direct you to board an available cable car. Sit back and soak in the views on the way up. To the east, the Seceda massif and alp will gradually reveal itself.

Hiking from Mont Sëuc

Begin your hike by heading left on trail no. 9 towards the Sassolungo Group. The trail will descend through stands of pines until opening into the rolling meadowland.

On your left, you will pass the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the first of many mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi. “Schwaige” “Baita” and “Rifugio” are all used to denote mountain hut. These relaxing Alpine refuges have tended to travelers since the Middle Ages.

When you approach a fork in the trail stay on trail no. 9 to the left which will bring you past the Sporthotel Sonne. Follow trail no. 9 for a good distance enjoying the rugged faces of the Sassolungo Group staring down on you. Eventually, you will come to Hartlweg which intersects the trail. Take a right onto Hartlweg.

When Hartlweg runs into trail no. 6B take a right to visit Malga Sanon if you are ready for a refreshment or a bite to eat. If not, take a left onto 6B.

Trail no. 6B will merge into trail no. 9 for a short distance. You will come to an option to take trail no. 3 to the right, but continue on 9 until you come to the second intersection for trail no. 3. Then take a right onto 3 towards Compatsch.

Mountain huts like Malga Schgaguler Schwaige shown here invite your weary legs to rest with a hearty South Tyrolean meal, drink and view you will not forget.

Stay on trail no. 3 until it ends at trail no. 30, which is also known as the Hans & Paula Steger Weg. Named after two South Tyrolean climbing and skiing legends who once called Alpe di Siusi home.

Take a right onto trail no. 30 and follow it for roughly another 20 minutes until reaching Compatsch. The Sciliar mountain from this stretch is at its most stunning.

Once at the village, you can give your legs a rest at the restaurant in the Nordic Ski Center. It offers a more contemporary setting than the rustic mountain huts you encounter, but the menu serves up delicious pasta if that suits your mid-hike appetite.

After you’re done visiting Compatsch, set out to return to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station via the same route. You’ll pass by Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again, which is where we had the best forking meal in South Tyrol. From their terrace, you can devour your final views of Sassolungo before zipping back down to Ortisei on the cable car.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #2

If you are interested in spending most of your time in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region, embarking on a hike of Alpe di Siusi itself from Compatsch is an excellent option to choose. Some of South Tyrol’s most alluring villages, churches and castles reside in this holiday region.

To start out from Compatsch, drive 7 miles above the village of Seis. Keep in mind the following:

The road leading towards Alpe di Siusi is closed to incoming traffic from 9 am to 5 pm so be sure to arrive before 9 am. The road is not closed to outgoing traffic so you can leave at any time.
Parking is available on the left of the road in Compatsch near the Alpe di Siusi visitor center in a lot called P2. The cost to park is €17,00. You can avoid paying the parking fee by parking in one of the roadside lots you’ll encounter on the drive up, but then, of course, you’ll extend your hike uphill.
If you happen to arrive after 9 am when the road is closed, all is not lost. Take the Alpe di Siusi Cable Car up from the village of Seis. The cable car cost is €17,00 per person so it pays to arrive before 9 am and park.

Hiking from Compatsch

This hiking option follows the same route as above except instead of hiking to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, the mid-point for your hike will be the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige before heading back to Compatsch.

You can certainly hike up to the cable car station and enjoy a refreshment and meal there if you wish in their restaurant. But our preference is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. Nothing beats their food and views in our opinion.

Here’s the hiking route you will follow from Compatsch. From the parking lot, you will pick up trail no. 30 (Hans & Paula Steger Weg).

Schlern Mountain in Winter — No matter when you visit, spring, summer, fall or winter, the sights on Alpe di Siusi will steal your breath. Guaranteed.

Follow trail no. 30 until it intersects with trail no. 3 where you will take a left towards Saltria. Trail no. 3 will eventually merge into trail no. 9 where you will have the option to go left or right. Be sure to follow trail no. 9 to the left.

Stay on trail no. 9 and then take a right onto trail no. 6B. This trail will slowly curve to the east until coming to Hartlweg. Like above, you can stay on 6B to take a break at the Malga Sanon if you wish or take a right to continue trekking across Alpe di Siusi.

Hartlweg will lead you to trail no. 9 where you will take a left. Follow trail no. 9 all the way to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

The Langkofel Group from Alpe di Siusi — One of our favorite aspects of Alpe di Siusi is that the scenery is always changing as the clouds and sun move across the sky.

After you have enjoyed a hearty meal and glass of South Tyrolean wine or beer, set out for the return hike to Compatsch. It’s worth pointing out that you do not have to initially take trail no. 9 back if you don’t wish. Take a glance at your map and you will see other trails that will eventually bring you to trail no. 30 into Compatsch.

Bonus Hiking Option: Let Curiosity be Your Guide

Reaching the plateau and simply wandering trails as your heart sees fit is an enticing option for free-spirited souls. Many trails are accessible to all and marked as such that you can roam without ever getting lost.

Find a trail that loops if you’re set on trekking Alpe di Siusi without seeing the same sight twice. Just be sure to bring a map from the cable car station so you can estimate how long it will take to reach any given point that interests you.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Val di Funes

Additional Tips & Considerations

Make plans to explore Ortisei and the fascinating tradition of woodcarving in Val Gardena before or after hiking Alpe di Siusi.
The Parish Church of St. Ulrich in Ortisei is well worth a visit as well. Built in the late 1700s, the church’s red bulbous dome is easy to spot making it a beacon for history and architecture lovers. Its interior is among the most gorgeous we have ever seen. Precious frescoes, oil paintings and woodcarvings adorn every inch.

The Parish Church of Ortisei holds ornate works of art such as this mesmerizing and larger-than-life woodcarving of St. Ulrich by the famous sculptor Ludwig Moroder.

The Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm (the lift operates until 6 pm from mid-June to mid-October). The station begins operating in mid-May after ski season and closes again in early November before reopening for the ski season typically in December. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
Want to see the sunset on Alpe di Siusi? You’re in luck. Once per week in the summer the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station runs from 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm to allow evening walks and dinner at their restaurant. Review the night schedule to see if the dates align with your trip to South Tyrol.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Val Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways. Note: The Val Gardena card does not provide access to lifts based in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region.
If you wish to experience Alpe di Siusi when the meadows are in full bloom with wildflowers, time your visit from mid-June to mid-July.
Hiking isn’t the only way to enjoy Alpe di Siusi. If you’re a biking enthusiast, consider renting a mountain bike or e-bike. BAMBY rental is located right next to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station.
If you like the idea of enjoying Alpe di Siusi with a blanket of snow, plan on a visit from November through April.
The mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi are not open year-round. Be sure to review this mountain hut list and schedule prior to planning your hike.
Want to see cows lazily roaming the pastures of Alpe di Siusi? Visit the plateau beginning in mid-July. The cattle typically are driven up in early July and driven back down by mid-September when the food supply has dwindled.
Harness the natural energy of Alpe di Siusi to improve your wellbeing. Be sure to explore the wellness products originating from its meadows. Up to 80 different kinds of grass, herbs and flowers can found in just a handful of hay from Alpe di Siusi. Local companies like Trehs create natural cosmetic and wellness products based on the ancient wisdom passed down through the ages from the mountains of South Tyrol.
If you embark on a hike of Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch, don’t miss a visit to the historic gem of St. Valentin Chapel, which sits below the Schlern massif in Seis. Its steepled-beauty has graced the mountain backdrop since 1244.
The Alpe di Siusi holiday region contains many historic sights worth exploring such as the St. Valentin Chapel shown here.
Like all the regions of the Dolomites, Alpe di Siusi is shrouded in age-old legends. Witches long ago performed rituals on the plateau. You can embark on a spell-binding hike from Castelrotto that takes you to the famous “Witches’ Benches”.
For additional Alpe di Siusi hikes of various themes, lengths and difficulty, check out the official Alpe di Siusi holiday region website.
For recommended hiking gear and clothing to wear while hiking Alpe di Siusi, access the guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Before any hike, pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

Have you embarked on your own Alpe di Siusi adventure? If so, let us know in the comments below any additional tips, insights and hikes worth sharing.

SAVE ALPE DI SIUSI TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD

Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Val di Funes

By Kate & Vin 22 Comments

Deep in the heart of South Tyrol lies a secluded valley where you’ll find yourself seemingly lost in the pages of a fairy tale.

If J.R.R. Tolkien were to drop you a postcard from Middle Earth there’s a good chance it would come from Val di Funes. This breathtaking land in the Dolomites may very well be nature’s greatest masterpiece — a perfect storm of beauty and brawn.

Once you have stared longingly into a picture of the valley with the St. Magdalena (Santa Maddalena) Church amid piercing green hills and the mighty Odle (Geisler) peaks tearing into the southern sky, the sight seals your wanderlust fate. Seeing this mountainous paradise firsthand becomes an obsession.

In this post, we give you the step-by-step guide to visiting the top sights in Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss). You’ll discover how to experience the best views and hike from one attraction to the next while taking in all the Alpine enchantment this blessed valley offers.

[cmtoc_table_of_contents]

Where is Val di Funes

Tucked between Val Gardena to the south and Val Pusteria to the north, just 45 minutes from Bolzano, you’ll find Val di Funes. Home to people as far back as prehistoric times, the valley captivates at every turn.

From unspoiled forests and fields to rolling pastures stewarded by lone farmsteads and roving livestock, idyllic scenery echoes eternally from one mountainside to the next.

Map of Val di Funes — Val di Funes is just 45 minutes from Bolzano to the southwest and 30 minutes from Brixen to the north.

Val di Funes carves roughly 15 miles through velvet evergreen slopes until abruptly meeting the jaw-dropping thunder of the Dolomites. When you first see the saw-tooth edge of the Odle peaks shredding the heavens, it is jarring.

The severe contrast against the tranquilness of the valley defines the very meaning of awe. Such brooding sights of nature’s might are a rare gift.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds)

What to See in Val di Funes

Val di Funes teems with attractions worth exploring, but the two most celebrated are the Church of St. Magdalena and the Church of St. Johann. These two storied holy sites are rather small, but leave a mountain-size impression on travelers.

Looking at the Odle Peaks — Awe-inspiring in every sense. The Odle peaks storm up nearly 10,000 feet into the heavens.

Like the north-facing Odle peaks, they are symbolic of Val di Funes. The much-loved scene of their steeples among the mountains may make them the most photographed churches in South Tyrol.

The itinerary we detail below will take 2-3 hours if covering it primarily by foot. If you do not want to walk that much, you can drive near to either church.

Both can be enjoyed in as little as an hour. However, we recommend planning on at least spending a morning or afternoon exploring the area.

The Church of St. Magdalena

The Church of St. Magdalena beams from a hill in a tiny village of the same name located on the far end of the valley. The church itself sits atop a grassy hill where it is said pagan rituals took place long ago.

The exact date the church was built is not known, but it was first mentioned in historical documents in 1394. According to legend, the church was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene after a mirage of her appeared in a nearby brook. As you may recall, she is one of the most beloved saints as she embodies the power of forgiveness and was the first to see Jesus resurrected.

Inside, the church design and decor is classically baroque. Ornate gold and marble accents and remarkable paintings flourish from ceiling to floor. Above the altar is a painting of Mary Magdalene followed by a statue of her at the foot of the cross.

If you are planning a visit to South Tyrol in the fall consider attending Speckfest, which occurs the first weekend of October each year and is held just below the church. Discover more about this autumn culinary celebration by reading about our recent fun-filled afternoon at Speckfest.

St. Magdalena Church Interior — The Baroque interior of the Church of St. Magdalena displays precious works of religious art.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Seeing the Church of St. Magdalena up close is certainly a rewarding experience, but admiring it against the backdrop of the Dolomites is a sight you’ll never forget. Here’s how to capture the iconic panorama as seen in our feature image:

From the Via Geisler roadway into the village of St. Magdalena take a left at the blue sign directing you to the village center. Straight ahead of you will be a public parking lot. We recommend parking here and hiking along the road to the panorama point and church. The road leading directly to the church is closed to automobiles.
Take left onto Bergweg and then a right on Trebich. Note: Street names may not be visible so be sure to follow the signs for the church (Kirche / Chiesa).
Follow Trebich to the left and then Magdalenaweg, which veers to the right. Stay on Magdalena as it winds gradually upward.
You’ll eventually see the church to your right. But instead of taking the right continue straight to reach a higher elevation.
You will then come to a farmstead on the road where you will take a right. Follow the road up to the second bend. Here, you will find a short trail called St. Magdalena Panoramaweg cutting across the slope offering the best views.

After thoroughly drinking in the views, we suggest visiting the church. It is open daily.

The Church of St. Johann

Only 40 minutes away by foot from the Church of St. Magdalena is the picturesque Church of St. Johann. This little stone church with its famous onion-bulbed steeple is actually more akin to a chapel, but the sight of it is equally stunning. It is also often referred to as St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui or San Giovanni.

The Church of St. Johann came to grace a meadow at the foot of the Odle massif in 1744. A Baroque gem inside and out, the front facade showcases decorative pillars painted on the ends with a depiction of St. John of Nepomuk near the peak of the chapel.

Front of St. Johann Church in Val di Funes — Since 1744, The Church of St. Johann has charmed travelers visiting Val di Funes.

The life of St. John of Nepomuk is not as well known as St. Mary Magdalene. Considered a martyr, St. John was sentenced to death by drowning in 1393 by King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia. He was gagged and thrown into the Vltava River from the Charles Bridge in Prague.

Within the chapel, a series of paintings on the sides of the altar tells the story of St. John. The altar itself is grandly ornate with bedazzling marble and gold in the classic Baroque style like the Church of St. Magdalena. Curiously, a painting shows St. John holding out his tongue. It is apparently meant to symbolize his defiance of the king, which ultimately led to his torture and murder.

Cow in Val di Funes — Grazing beneath the Dolomites. Cows lazily roam all around St. Johann.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Since the Church of St. Johann sits in the middle of a wide-open field, numerous points will wow you as you meander to its doorstep. Here’s how we recommend visiting the chapel to soak it all in:

From the Church of St. Magdalena walk the path located outside the cemetery downhill towards the village center. Along this path, you will come to one of the most epic wayside shrine scenes in South Tyrol.
The path eventually becomes Kircheweg. Sweeping views of various farmsteads along this route make it a walk to remember.
Follow Kircheweg all the way into the village and then take a left onto Bergweg. Before you cross onto Bergweg pause to enjoy the ripples of a small waterfall on your left.
Stay on Bergweg and keep to the right when you come to a fork. This will lead you to the Via Geisler roadway where you will walk along the side for roughly 10 minutes until reaching a trail crossing a pasture to The Church of St. Johann.
Before venturing to the church, you’ll come across a stand where you can purchase fresh jams, syrups and more from the nearby farm. We always recommend supporting these family-owned farms when you get the chance. There’s nothing better than the regional specialties direct from the farm.
The largest stony spire of the Odle massif rises up beyond the church. It is known as Sass Rigais. This peak taught mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner how to master the climb.

The Church of St. Johann is available to visitors, but it is not always open. You can request access by contacting the Ranuihof Manor located on the edge of the church’s meadow.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

How to Reach Val di Funes

Thanks to its relatively central location in South Tyrol, adding a trip to Val di Funes as a part of your itinerary is easy no matter where you base yourself.

If you are arriving by car, the valley can be directly accessed from the A22 Autostrade. The exit is just north of Chiusa (Klausen). Reaching St. Magdalena village on the far end of Val di Funes is a pleasant drive. It takes less than 20 minutes once you exit the main highway.

House in Val di Funes — What a view. The balconies in Val di Funes dazzle with brightly colored geraniums from end-to-end.

Those using public transportation while in South Tyrol can still easily embark on an adventure in the valley. A bus departs from Chiusa and Brixen multiple times each day. To explore public transportation options, visit the official Val di Funes website.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

Additional Tips & Considerations for Visiting Val di Funes

Consider taking a break between hikes by having lunch in St. Magdalena. A couple of establishments offering traditional South Tyrolean hospitality with views include Gasthof Fermeda and Waldschenke.
Visit the Puez-Odle Nature Park Visitor Center in the heart of St. Magdalena to discover other attractions and history of the area.
Make a trip to Val di Funes a full-day outing by trekking the Adolf Munkel trail. This 4+ hour hike will bring you up close to the Odle mountain group.
If you want to see Val di Funes alive with Alpine wildflowers the best time to visit is the summer season.
To enjoy the valley with the least number of tourists, we suggest visiting Val di Funes in May or October. Another option is to explore Val di Funes in the winter when it becomes a wonderland for snow lovers.
Like many mountain vistas, sunrise and sunset will give you the most spectacular photo opportunities.
Visit Val di Funes during Speckfest to partake in the annual celebration of South Tyrol’s traditional mountain-smoked ham.
Before arriving in St. Magdalena you’ll pass through the village of San Pietro in the heart of Val di Funes. Consider visiting another remarkable church known as the “Duomo della Valle” (Cathedral in the Valley). Its onion-bulbed steeple soars an impressive 200+ feet.

Have you been to Val di Funes? Let us know in the comments in the below if there are any additional tips or sights you would recommend.

TAP TO SAVE & FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM TO SEE MORE OF VAL DI FUNES!

Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

By Kate & Vin 35 Comments

Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites is a must for every mountain lover. Its serrated crags make it one of our favorite hikes. Here’s everything you need to know to enjoy these peaks.

Out of all the iconic mountain scenery in South Tyrol there is perhaps no more striking sight than the Fermeda Towers of the Dolomites’ Odle mountain range.

From the sweeping pastures of Seceda mountain, these saw-toothed peaks seem born out of some prehistoric fire wherein a flash the burning mountain became stone. Flames once alive now forever frozen in time.

In this post, we show you how to see them. Up close. And in a heart-pounding way that will make for one of your most unforgettable days in South Tyrol. Our step-by-step guide to hiking Seceda brings you to another must-see sight in the Dolomites: The Church of St. Jakob. The oldest church in Val Gardena, its Gothic spire abruptly pierces the Alpine sky like a sword in battle.

This Seceda hiking adventure takes 4-6 hours depending on how long you choose to linger and admire the beauty all around you.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our free Seceda hiking guide

Bastions of Stone are Born

But before diving into how to hike Seceda, allow us to whisk you back 280 million years — when the Dolomites were just mere inches high. Knowing the birth of these geological giants not only adds to their wonder but also imparts a greater appreciation for their protection as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While ancient lore spun from deep within the Dolomites would have us believe the “Pale Mountains” arose from dwarves dutifully weaving moonlight around mountain peaks to appease a lovesick prince, the truth is far less romantic yet equally fascinating.

Dolomites Coral Reef — The Dolomites formed under a prehistoric ocean 280 million years ago.

The jagged crags of the Dolomites captivate all who see them, but to the expert eye, they also tell the story of billions upon billions of fossilized life forms. The cleaved cliffsides reveal past ages in stratifications that run from foot to summit. In the period when dinosaurs first appeared, the Dolomites were actually coral reefs under the deep ocean blue.

Over millions of years, colossal compressions of the earth’s crust thrust the reefs higher until emerging into the sky 30 million years. The erosive actions of earth over epochs shaped the mountains into the serrated forms we see today.

So when treading across the Dolomites take a moment to ponder the countless critters now extinct right below your feet. Their scientific value is as immense as the mountains. We just might have something to learn from them.

Where is Seceda in the Dolomites?

Seceda mountain looms from 8,200+ feet above the villages of Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva in Val Gardena. The mountain is within the Puez Odle Nature Park (Naturpark Puez-Geisler in German) and is one of many forming the Odle Group (Geislergruppe or Gruppo delle Odle) of mountains.

The name Odle comes from the Ladin language of Val Gardena and translates to “needles” — certainly an appropriate moniker given the mountain’s pointy peaks. Seceda, on the other hand, stems from the Latin word “siccus”, which means dry. Again, quite appropriate since the vast pastures of Seceda can be rather stark depending on the time of year visited.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

How to Reach Seceda

Reaching Seceda’s summit can be as easy or hard as you like. The most direct way to ascend to the top of Seceda is from the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola Station in Ortisei, which then connects you to the Furnes-Seceda cable car part way up the mountain. Here are the step-by-step directions to follow:

If arriving at Ortisei by car, you can park right next to the gondola lift station or at the underground Garage Central parking lot in the heart of Ortisei. We recommend parking at the Garage Central if you intend to wander about Ortisei after your hike. The walk to the gondola station is less than 10 minutes. See the map in our downloadable Seceda hiking guide.
At the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola station, you’ll need to purchase a ticket to use the lift. For this specific hike, you will purchase a one-way ticket that allows using both the gondola and the cable car to bring you the Seceda summit. The cost is 23,00 €. Note: If you are not interested in making the trek down the mountain, purchase a round-trip ticket.
Both the gondola and cable car ride are smooth and peaceful. When the gondola ride ends, walk to the Furnes-Seceda Cable Car station which is a short distance away to hop in the cable car lift, which whisks you to the summit. During the ascent, be sure to consume the ever-expanding panorama. Towards the west, the mountains of Alpe di Siusi will gradually unfold into their full splendor. It takes roughly 15 minutes in total to reach the summit using both lifts.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Visiting Val di Funes

Hiking Across Seceda

Once you arrive at the Furnes-Seceda summit station, pick your jaw off the cable car floor before stepping out. For the best views of the Fermeda Towers begin hiking Seceda by hopping on trail no. 1 as indicated by the signpost.

This will lead you up an incline that any beginner hiker can handle. Soon you will be at the foot of the impressive Seceda summit cross. Next to it is a circular lookout point forged from iron that helps you identify all the mountains gracing your eyes from the summit.

Looking towards Alpe di Siusi more iconic peaks of the Dolomites including the Sella Group, the Sassolungo massif and the Witches’ Mountain (Mt. Schlern) lie on the horizon. From up here, you can even spot the king of South Tyrol mountains, Ortler, which beckons from a height of 13,000 feet more than 80 miles away.

Just beyond the summit cross to the east is an ideal spot to capture some of the most photogenic scenes of the Fermeda Towers.

From here, you will continue on the trail towards the Fermeda Towers. The path will now descend slightly. If your heart does not pound faster as the sheer immensity of the peaks swells before you, that’s a good indication to check your pulse.

Eventually, you will come to a signpost for trail no. 6. Follow this trail to your left, which pulls you up the steep Furcela Pana (Pana-Scharte) where you will take in the Fermeda Towers from the edge of the earth. Well, it appears to be anyway. This ascent up the Furcela Pana is a tad grueling, but not dangerous.

Once you have thoroughly soaked in the sight walk back down and pick up trail no. 1 again. This will bring you to the Troier Hut — an idyllic, rustic place to relax and eat under the guard of the Fermeda peaks.

Find a table on the patio facing the Sassolungo massif across the wide chasm of pastures, stones and pines. The Troier Hut restaurant serves a variety of delicious South Tyrolean specialties right from their farm to your table. In addition, the hut makes a mean Hugo cocktail — a South Tyrolean original you must try.

After you’re done eating, sit back in one of the sun loungers below the patio. Here, let the sweeping view lullaby you into a brief nap before trekking onward.

When you’re rested and ready, take trail no. 2B to see the remarkable twin peaks of Pieralongia. Beyond these stone spear tips, you will take trail no. 1 again where you will begin your descent toward St. Jakob’s Church.

Fermeda Chapel — A tiny stone chapel sits under the jagged teeth of Fermeda.

Stay on trail no. 1 until coming to a fork with a signpost pointing to trail no. 2. This trail runs to the left and right. Head to the right towards Ortisei as noted on the signpost. This trail stretches all the way across the meadows of Seceda.

You’ll pass additional huts if you need to take another break or to satisfy your craving for another Hugo. The trail also winds past Fermeda Church — a tiny stone chapel that will charm you from a hilltop on your right.

⇒ LEARN MORE: Understanding South Tyrol Trail Signs & Markers

Into the Forest of Mt. Balest

The trail will become steeper as you approach Mt. Pic and Mt. Balest, which are the first mountains above Ortisei before Seceda. You’ll walk up to the opening of a forest where signpost for trail no. 6A directs you to St. Jakob.

This trail cuts into swaths of evergreens that tower above the rock face cliff side of Mt. Balest. Even though the trail runs through forested slopes, several points allow you to gush over the wide-open Val d’ Anna below as well as capture glimpses of Sassolungo through breaks in the treetops.

Seceda Hike Wayside Shrine — One of the many **wayside shrines** you’ll encounter while hiking Seceda.

It is important to note that trail no. 6A becomes increasingly difficult as it twists and turns over Mt. Balest towards St. Jakob. While we do not consider it an easy hike, it is not dangerous in terms of height and steepness.

Parts are quite rocky and narrow-pathed however so it’s important to watch your step to prevent injuring a knee or ankle. For those less sure on their feet, we recommend using hiking poles during this part of the trek. That said, we have seen hikers of all ages on this trail so don’t let the increased difficulty level deter you. Just take your time, be prepared and allow enough time before sunset.

When you arrive at the Balest signpost at 1823 meters, follow trail no. 6 towards St. Jakob. From here, you are roughly 30 minutes from the church.

Reaching the Church of St. Jakob

Once you arrive at the Church of St. Jakob (“San Giacomo” in Italian and “Dlieja da Sacun” in Ladin), the sight of it against the backdrop of Sassolungo will stop you in your tracks. We recommend taking a seat on the bench overlooking the church to let its antiquity sink in.

It’s not known exactly when the church was built, but documents first mention it in 1283. For nearly a thousand years it has greeted travelers and you can now count yourself as one of them.

Unfortunately, the church is permanently closed unless you arrive at a time when guided tours are being conducted or during the summer when it is frequently open for visitors during normal hours. However, its cemetery is open year-round allowing you to wander around the small church grounds within the circular outer wall.

A gorgeous wayside shrine greets you at the front of the cemetery. Its haunting presence exemplifies the expert craftsmanship of the woodcarvers of Val Gardena. Also worth seeing are the late Gothic frescoes from 1450 on the south-facing wall of the church. They possess remarkable color and detail depicting St. Christopher with Jesus as a child perched on his shoulder.

St. Jakob Church Frescoes — The frescoes on the south-facing wall of St. Jakob are from 1450.

If you’re interested in a tour of its historic interior, we suggest contacting the tourist office in Ortisei to find out specifics on when they may be available.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies

Ease Your Way Down to Ortisei

From St. Jakob Church return to trail no. 6 and follow it toward Ortisei. From this point, you are roughly a half-hour from the village. The remainder of the walk is easy and will take you through more evergreen forest where you’ll stroll past interesting works of art. One, in particular, sums up this hiking adventure quite well.

Visual artist Claudia Comte pays tribute to the natural wonder of Val Gardena with a timber sculpture that aptly spells out “WOOOW”. A word that needs no translation given the views all around. This universal expression of awe came together using 20 spruce trunks each nearly 20 feet high.

After returning to Ortisei, we highly recommend taking the time to see more works of art from the talented artisans of Val Gardena. Visit one of the many quaint woodcarving shops and studios dotted in and around the village.

To learn more about this charming centuries-old tradition born in the heart of the Dolomites, read about our behind-the-scenes visit with Deur Sculptures — a local woodcarving family with wood sculptures in some of the most celebrated cathedrals in the world.

Where to Stay to Hike Seceda

During our most recent hiking outing, we stayed at Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof in Ortisei located just below the Church of St. Jakob. Every square inch of this family-owned hotel radiates heavenly Alpine charm. When we came across it, we had to book a stay.

The balcony view was among the best we have enjoyed in South Tyrol. Each morning we woke up to a wide-open view of the immense Sassolungo massif across the valley.

The hotel offers a gorgeous pool area for unwinding after a tiresome day on the slopes. But best of all, it is located just minutes away from the key lifts of Val Gardena.

The owner, Andrea Piccolruaz, spoke excellent English and provided us additional hiking tips while entertaining us with her adventures abroad.

Additional Tips & Considerations for Hiking Seceda

Access an easy-to-follow PDF of our Seceda hike to bring on your trip.
The Ortisei-Furnes gondola and Furnes-Seceda cable car operate from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm. Both open in early June and close mid-October. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways.
If you plan to hike down Seceda, make sure to schedule your hike when you will still have daylight.
Additional ways to reach Seceda include taking the Col Raiser gondola from St. Christina or the Resciesa funicular from Ortisei. Plan on extra time if using either option as they are a less direct route. If you do not like the idea of being elevated in a cable car, the Resciese funicular runs on tracks so you never leave the ground.
If you want to experience Seceda at sunrise or sunset or are a landscape photographer looking to shoot Seceda at night, we recommend booking an overnight stay at the Fermeda Hut, Almhotel Col Raiser, or Rifugio Firenze. The other option for a sunrise view is to start the day early with a hike up from Ortisei. It also permitted to camp on Seceda in certain areas. If you plan to camp, be sure to pitch your tent away from private property and national parks. Also, pack up your site each morning.
The best time see to Seceda beaming with wildflowers and greenery rivaling Ireland is in July.
An additional breathtaking sight you may want to hike to along this route is the Crujeta summit cross near Mt. Pic off of trail no. 6.
If you plan to hike Seceda in spring or fall, but are not sure about the conditions on the summit, visit the tourist office in Ortisei. Staff will be able to advise you on the conditions and what gear you should have for your hike.
For stunning aerial shots of the peaks, you may want to consider using a drone. This post helps you select a quality drone that fits your budget.
For tips on hiking gear and clothing to wear for hiking Seceda, access the guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Be sure to pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

TAP TO SAVE & FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM TO SEE MORE OF SECEDA!

Forest of the Fallen – Brunico’s Moving Tribute to the Soldiers of World War I

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

“I am young, I am twenty years old; yet I know nothing of life but despair, death, fear, and fatuous superficiality cast over an abyss of sorrow. I see how peoples are set against one another, and in silence, unknowingly, foolishly, obediently, innocently slay one another.”

Words, once only apparitions in our minds, were now suddenly flesh and blood. Each step we took summoned another line from Erich Maria Remarque’s “All Quiet on the Western Front”. Each turn, another face haunting in the forest.

But we were in much more than a forest.

All around us stood grave markers.

Not of stone, but of timber.

Wooden crosses fashioned in pacifying poses silently spoke to us. Bronze plates with forgings of “1915”, “1916”, “1917” and “1918” conjured images of war. German names along with tattered photographs whispered stories into our minds. Wishes and dreams of young men longing to be told, but never to be heard.

What is this place of somber beauty we wondered? Minutes earlier we were gazing up in awe at the medieval markings of a 13th-century castle. And then on a whim decided to cross a nearby footbridge to a hill shrouded in pine and firs. Here, we trekked up a steep set of stairs. At the top, a forested slope unfolded before us revealing a cemetery unlike any we have ever seen.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness.

A grey monument resting on the hill’s crest held the answer. Inscribed on sable panes were the names of those buried. Next to this list of the fallen, we found the story of the ‘Soldier Cemetery’.

War on the Rooftop of the World

Soldiers climbing the Dolomites during World War I — Soldiers scaling a cliff in the Dolomites during WWI. (Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institution)

Fighting a war anywhere is hell. Fighting one in the unforgiving heights of the Dolomites is utterly unthinkable. Yet, during the First World War, its crags and crevices saw thousands of soldiers lost to the madness of mankind and more still to the fury only born on mountains. The warring conditions on the rooftop of the world were among the most treacherous ever endured in the history of warfare. If bullets or shell-fire didn’t tear you asunder, the mountain’s pummeling snow, hellish winds and crashing boulders would.

Brunico (also known as Bruneck) in South Tyrol was home to several wartime hospitals. Those injured battling on the front lines of the Dolomites received care here. Many did not make it out alive. Too many. When the local cemetery could no longer support the dead, a new one was founded on this hill in Brunico known as Kühbergl.

An Austrian Lieutenant Colonel, A. Bechtold, developed the vision for the Soldier Cemetery. For the men who suffered horrors on the summits, he sought to bring them final peace within the mossy velvet of the forest floor.

The cemetery was built by Russian prisoners of war. Logs from stands of pine became the grave markers — forever memorializing the fallen in harmony with the stillness of the forest.

Resting in Quiet Rapture

One-hundred years ago this past year, the last shot of the First World War rang out. At 11 am on the eleventh day in the eleventh month of 1918, Germany signed an armistice bringing the war to an end. Upon receiving the news, soldiers simply laid down their arms and went home.

The toll? 37 million dead.

669 lie in the Soldier Cemetery. They are soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian empire, as well as Russia, Serbia and Romania. Just 20 years later, the world would spiral into another war taking the lives of 50 million more. Nineteen German soldiers killed in bombing raids from the Second World War are also at rest in the cemetery.

In a solemn act of respect for the men, the cemetery dedicated sections to the respective faiths of the soldiers. Men of Christian, Jewish and Muslim faith lay separate but together. These brothers fighting for pieces of the earth now share it in quiet rapture as their home.

Caretakers of the Deep Wood Light

As we continued walking through the cemetery, we came across a few women tending to the graves. We learned they are members of an association of women that has kept each grave in pristine form since 1921.

Watching them work was as moving as the cemetery itself. In silence, they carefully placed evergreen branches and other favors from the forest throughout the resting places. These beautiful deep wood adornments evoked an even more serene feeling to our timbered surroundings.

Soldier Cemetery Caretaker in Bruneck — Since 1921, an association of women has given their time to maintain and beautify the cemetery.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness. Whether encountering a meticulously carved wayside shrine off a hiking trail or rows of crosses masterfully wrought out of iron in quaint, candlelit Alpine churchyards, the traditions of this land inspire awe. Taking time to reflect in such moments requires no belief in the divine to enjoy the beauty of humanity.

How to Visit the Soldier Cemetery of Brunico

A visit to the medieval town of Brunico is an easy trip add-on before or after a trek around Lago di Braies. While in Brunico, a walk through the Soldier Cemetery is a must. Every lover of nature and history will find it an enchanting sight.

The town offers you a few ways to reach the cemetery. From the grounds of the Bruneck Castle walk to the south castle wall and continue down a small slope to a footbridge. Cross over the road (Via Riscone) to the Kühbergl hill. Then follow the path to the right for a bit until you come to a set of stairs leading uphill. The cemetery sits at the top of the steps.

A footbridge near Bruneck Castle — Near Bruneck Castle lies a footbridge that leads you to the Soldier Cemetery.

Additional options to visiting the cemetery include two parking lots directly off Via Riscone. If you choose either one, you’ll have to walk uphill even more, but neither path is difficult.

No matter how you choose to visit, keep an eye out for signposts indicating ‘Cimitero di Guerra’ and ‘Kriegerfriedhof’ to ensure you’re heading the right direction.

Capturing the Soldier Cemetery with your camera is a heartrending experience no matter when you visit, but please be courteous to anyone there paying respect to those lost.

We are honored this post was recognized by Traverse Creator Awards with a “Best Storytelling Award”. The ability to discover the amazing history of South Tyrol while exploring all of its natural splendor is a gift we do not take for granted. Our hope is to inspire all who visit to take the time to get to know the history of the land and its people.

Treks in the Dolomites – Hiking Where Witches Roam

By Kate & Vin 29 Comments

Autumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.

Hiking Trail on Alpe di Siusi — The mountains of Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm) are shrouded in legends and bloodcurdling tales.

With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.

The Witches of Schlern Mountain

A corner of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet brooding scene for any trekker.

But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.

He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil.

According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday by the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms from Schlern’s fang-toothed peaks.

Schlern Moutain — Storm clouds gather around the Witches’ Mountain – Schlern / Sciliar.

In fact, one legend tells of a bull grazing the rolling hills near the village of Seis, just below the massif, and discovering a bell in the earth. The villagers hung the mysterious bell in the bulbous spire of the ancient St. Valentin Chapel. When storms reigned down, the residents would fervently ring the bell to break the witches’ spell.

Hikers can visit a revered site of the witches known as the “Witches’ Benches” (Hexenbänke in German) located on Mount Bullaccia (Puflatsch). Bullaccia haunts to the north of Schlern mountain offering some of most jaw-dropping views of Alpe di Siusi and beyond.

Alpe di Siusi Sunset — The setting sun burns the October sky above the peaks of Schlern.

The Witches Benches captivate the imagination. They are rock formations resembling spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if the stone thrones are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.

A Witch’s Curse

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky.

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history.

Schlern menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine local women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake.

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays.

Prösels Castle was once the site of witch trials in South Tyrol.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

Have Broom Will Travel

Getting to Alpe di Siusi is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

If you want to experience South Tyrol’s witch folklore firsthand, we recommend departing from Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German). From intricate witch wood carvings to themed shops and restaurants as well as the occasional stray black cat, witches abound from its centuries-old cobblestones.

Hexenkeller Restaurant in Castelrotto — Restaurants such as the Hexenkeller in Castelrotto pay tribute to the enchanting folklore of the Dolomites.

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although the plateau is accessible year-round.

The witching hours of October make a tempting time to explore how land and legend weave together to create folklore that stirs one’s darkest fears. The cable cars still carry adventurers to the top through much of October if the weather allows it.

How to Reach the Witches’ Benches

Once you are on the Alpe di Siusi, the Witches’ Benches are about a 1-2 hour hike depending on which cable car you choose. The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk. It menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

From Castelrotto, take the Marizen Chairlift to the Marizen Alp. Then follow trail no. 9 through the forestland of Tiosels until you come to trail no. 8, which leads to the right up to Alpe di Siusi.
The Witches’ Chairs above Castelrotto make another hex-worthy trek through dense forests.
On Alpe di Siusi, trail no. 8 will intersect with trail no. 14. Follow it to the left and stay on it until reaching the Witches’ Benches.
On your return to Castelrotto, you may wish to stay on trail no. 8 descending further down the slope to another mysterious stone formation shrouded in legend: The Witches’ Chairs (Hexenstühle). Two stones appear as literally chairs facing the valley. Like the Witches’ Benches, it is not known if these are man-made or oddities of nature.

To return to Castlerotto from the Witches’ Chairs, stay on trail no. 8 until you can take a left on trail no. 7 into town. The hike back is less than an hour.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

South Tyrol Casts a Spell

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart.

Its a spell you’ll undoubtedly want to share with others, but sometimes such bewitching autumn hexes are best left for others to discover on their own.

As in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury: “Beware the autumn people…They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles, breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.

SAVE THE WITCHES’ BENCHES TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST!

Hiking in South Tyrol – A Land Born to Lift the Wandering Spirit

By Kate & Vin 41 Comments

Never. Stop. Exploring. Three simple words to some, but a clear and commanding clarion call to those with adventure running deep in their veins.

If you’re an explorer at heart you’ll find no better place to heed the call than South Tyrol. The land was born to lift the wandering spirit to new heights. With its medley of Alpine and Mediterranean climates, your wanderlusting ways will be amplified by hiking among a vastly diverse playground unlike anywhere else on Earth. Every step. Every sight. Lures you into a new discovery.

Here, you can embark on a jaw-dropping high-mountain trek using South Tyrol’s world-class lift systems, take a leisurely stroll in ancient valleys and hills nestled between the snow-capped peaks or give the bottom of your feet a break by hopping on a mountain bike. And if breaking a sweat in the Dolomites by bike isn’t your speed, then pedal and sip your way through medieval wine villages along the South Tyrolean Wine Road.

But that’s just the tip of the mountain peak so to speak. Below we highlight a few of our favorite South Tyrol hiking outings to give you a taste of the adventure waiting for you.

By the way, if this post makes you want to lace up your hiking boots, be sure to browse our South Tyrol itinerary ideas page for more enticing adventures.

All Along the Waalwegs

South Tyrol provides a one-of-a-kind hiking experience along ancient irrigation channels called Waalwegs. Waalweg what? Don’t let the name scare you off. The name translates to irrigation path. These casual hiking trails ascend easily and wind through miles of meadows, forests, vineyards and orchards.

They follow water channels carved long ago to usher melting snow packs down the mountainsides. Along the way you can enjoy stunning castles, villages, churches and alpine wayside shrines up close and from afar. The paths ramble along next to flowing Alpine water offering the soothing gurgle of a stream with each step.

Walking a waalweg — Waalwegs are one of the easiest ways to consume South Tyrol’s stunning mountain scenery.

Regardless of age or hiking skill level, you can walk or even jog along these gently sloping trails. The strikingly diverse landscapes they cover will leave you awestruck. Cafes and mountain huts well placed along the paths serve as resting spots to grab a crisp refreshment such as a Hugo, a South Tyrol original, and an ample helping of tasty pasta or an authentic Tyrolean dish. The views from these wayside haunts are enough to keep your feet and gaze firmly planted.

Along this Waalweg you'll get to visit Castle Tirol, Thurnstein Castle and Brunnenberg Castle, as well as endlessly capture them from many photo-worthy angles.

A couple of the most scenic and popular Waalwegs to add to your trip plans are the Lagundo/Algunder and the Marlinger/Marlengo near Merano. The Marlengo Waalweg follows the longest irrigation channel in the area and gives you ample views of the Etschtal valley and Lebenberg Castle.

The Algunder route is exceptionally suited for families with young children or older adults, but no matter your age you’ll find it fascinating. Along this Waalweg you’ll get to visit Castle Tirol, Thurnstein Castle and Brunnenberg Castle, as well as endlessly capture them from many photo-worthy angles. Walking here you may just wonder if you wandered into Westeros. That’s Game of Thrones speak for the uninformed.

A Palm-Drenched Promenade

The Tappeiner Promenade (Tappeinerweg) above Merano is a meanders dream. Mediterranean beauty abounds all around this delightful trail. Countless palm trees, eucalyptus, cacti, agave, olive trees and other flora follow the promenade from beginning to end. It is one of Italy’s best walks.

As you stroll along ever more breathtaking panoramas of Merano come into view. You also get an opportunity to dazzle your nose by exploring a fragrant herb garden featuring over 230 plants, as well as climb the Powder Tower (Pulverturm) where you can imagine what it was like centuries ago to defend this corner of paradise.

Vineyards in Merano, Italy — Engulfed by vineyards. Promenades, like this one near Merano, are among the most tranquil South Tyrol hiking trails.

The Tappeiner Promenade connects with several other walks and eventually winds its way into the village of Dorf Tirol. But you can also take a side trail down to the old town center of Merano where you can relax along the Passer river.

Several cafes dot the river making it an ideal place to sit back and enjoy gelato or a refreshing beverage. Kate’s favorite to sip here is the Veneziano, a fusion of prosecco wine, Campari liqueur and sparkling water while Vin likes to cool off with a frosty beer from Forst, a local brewer in nearby Algund.

Explore the Heart of the Dolomites

Hiking South Tyrol — Alpe di Siusi unfurls into a vast hiker’s paradise.

The Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) in the Dolomites holds the largest mountain plateau in Europe. It is immense in every sense of the word. The moment you arrive at the top of the plateau your mouth will drop. Our first time here was heart-pounding spectacular. Nothing prepared us for the sprawling greenery and mountain views that unfurled before our eyes.

Bursting with hiking, biking, skiing and snowshoe trails of various levels of difficulty, Alpe di Siusi offers 900 miles of trails over an of 34 square miles. From the plateau, you’ll admire jutting Dolomite mountain peaks, ancient pastures and farms, cozy mountain huts and around 790 species of plants in the spring and summer.

South Tyrol Hiking in Winter — The well-tended trails on Alpe di Siusi make hiking South Tyrol during the winter a must.

Getting to this Alpine wonderland is easy thanks to South Tyrol’s swift lift system. Once at the top, all ages and skill levels can enjoy the prairie no matter the season you choose to visit. See our step-by-step guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi.

An Alpe di Siusi hike that winds through South Tyrol’s ancient history is to the “Witches’ Benches”. It brings you to a mystical rock formation that has spawned tales of curses and witches going back to the Dark Ages.

As much as we love hiking, sometimes nothing beats a bike ride. There is perhaps no better way to explore the heart of the Dolomites than by mountain bike. And the Alpe di Siusi is as bike-friendly as they come.

You can pedal through more than 600 miles of bike trails at various altitudes — spanning from easy to technically challenging. Several tour packages are available from outfitters where you can choose from short rides of a couple of hours to rides over several days.

To the east of Alpe di Siusi rises another hiker’s paradise in Val Gardena: Seceda mountain. Hiking to its mammoth spear tip peaks is a thrill every mountain lover should experience.

The hike can be as easy or challenging as you wish. We recommend taking the lifts from Ortisei to the summit and then hiking back down to the Church of St. Jakob — a medieval masterpiece that is the oldest church in Val Gardena. Our post about hiking Seceda gives you a step-by-step guide to an unforgettable day roaming this icon of the Dolomites.

Seceda in the Dolomites — Seeing the Fermeda peaks from the summit of Seceda is a sight that will steal your heart.

Pristine Alpine lakes sit patiently waiting for admirers throughout the Dolomites. The most popular is the famous Lago di Braies. For good reason. It is one of the most striking natural gems in the world.

But in the age of over-tourism, exploring Lago di Braies must be done right in order to get the most out of a visit. Our guide to The Emerald of the Dolomites walks through how to enjoy your time perfectly lost in the luster of lake’s blue-green aura.

Braies Lake — Lago di Braies is one of the most popular hiking destinations in the Dolomites.

By the way, if you are interested in war history, another hike in the Dolomites to consider is in nearby Trento to the Pordoi Pass where there is a German war memorial. It’s hard to believe, but the steep, crags of the Dolomites saw some of the most horrific fighting in World War I. When hiking at these heights, it will give you a profound respect for the hardships too many soldiers had to needlessly suffer.

Another valley you should not miss while hiking in South Tyrol is Val di Funes. It lies just to the north of Val Gardena and possesses Alpine scenery torn from the pages of a fairytale.

Val di Funes Hiking — Magical? Without a doubt. Val di Funes is a land where fairytales come to life in Val di Funes.

We provide you a detailed Val di Funes itinerary to help you explore the top sights of this treasured valley of the Dolomites. The alluring landscapes you encounter here will detoxify your mind, body and soul.

Begin Planning Your South Tyrol Hiking Adventure

The one thing South Tyrol will never run short of is adventure. Well, it likely won’t run short of wine, apples, speck, pasta or beer either.

Whether you embark on any of these outings or pursue any of the countless other hikes and bike rides available, your experience will build an enduring bond with this land born for the wandering kind.

Visiting South Tyrol is an easy trip add-on if you’re pining for natural beauty after a stroll through Venice or craving more mountain hikes after trekking other nearby trails like the Tour du Mont Blanc. We developed Throne & Vine to make it easy for you to plan your escape to this hidden gem. Discover more of the outdoor adventures waiting for you in South Tyrol.