Dolomites

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen

Updated: January 26, 2022

Longing to hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo? Discover how to truly experience the most iconic mountain trio in the Dolomites.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo feels like an awakening. The sight of the Three Peaks (also known as Drei Zinnen and 3 Zinnen) is so abrupt it adrenalizes the eyes — concentrating your mind as if you just stepped before a sleeping dragon. They do not appear as mountains but as a primordial eruption fossilized in a flash of earthen anger.

You will realize quickly on your first visit that Drei Zinnen is not a place to be seen, but another world to be experienced. The reason why has as much to do with the beauty of the landscape as it does its riveting history. Here, the scars of war still mar the mountains.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 2

After visiting Tre Cime on multiple occasions, in good weather and bad, we’re confident this hiking guide gives you the most soul-etching way to visit the Three Peaks. Below you will find step-by-step directions for two epic Tre Cime hikes: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit and the Lavaredo Saddle.

We also include insights on how to choose the best hike for you, tips on avoiding crowds and where you can stay. In addition, we provide an easy-to-follow Tre Cime map that pinpoints the iconic sights not to miss including hidden gems, notable mountain peaks and historical landmarks.

⇒ Save time by downloading our step-by-step Tre Cime di Lavaredo hiking guide

How to Get to Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 3 — The Tre Cime trailhead begins at Rifugio Auronzo.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo towers over the border of South Tyrol and the Italian province of Belluno. It is in the Drei Zinnen Nature Park of Val Pusteria / Pustertal in South Tyrol and belongs to the mountain range known as the Sexten Dolomites.

The most common starting point for hiking Drei Zinnen is the Rifugio Auronzo. You can reach this mountain hut by car or public shuttle bus. Our recommendation is to rent a car while visiting South Tyrol as it provides the greatest flexibility to explore.

BY CAR: Navigate to the Rifugio Auronzo via your phone or car’s GPS. Next to this mountain hut is a large parking area. Prior to driving up the mountain, you will pass through a toll booth where you will be required to pay an entrance fee of €30.00 per car. Plan to arrive before 9 a.m. as the parking area can fill up quickly. If you are visiting Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the summer, we recommend arriving even earlier. The toll road to the hut opens at 7 a.m.

BY BUS: To help reduce the environmental impact of driving and avoid paying the entrance fee, hop on a shuttle bus from your nearest town or perhaps even from your hotel if it is offered. The round-trip cost to take the shuttle bus is €15.00 (Note: If you have a Sudtirol Holidaypass provided by your hotel there is no cost). You can check shuttle bus departure times and book a ticket on the Suedtirolmobil website.

BY FOOT: Another option to avoid the entrance fee is to pay it with your feet. You can park at the Drei-Zinnen-Blick viewpoint located on the road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo and hike trail no. 102. You will reach the most popular Three Peaks mountain hut, Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler (Dreizinnenhütte), in 3+ hours.

History You Should Know Before Hiking

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 4

Few of the tens of thousands who hike the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit each year know they are trekking trails rimmed by the remnants of the first World War. Drei Zinnen, like many of ranges in the Dolomites, straddled the battlefield between empires. Knowing a bit of this history before hiking here will give you a much greater appreciation for the sights you encounter.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 5 — An Alpini soldier during the Great War.

On May 23, 1915, Italy declared war against Austria giving rise to the Alpine front, which cut 300 miles through the Alps from Switzerland to the Adriatic Sea. Hundreds of thousands of Italian “Alpini” and the Austrian “Kaiserjäger” soldiers fought on the rooftops of the world. It was the first time in world history that opposing armies clashed at altitudes of nearly 10,000 feet.

The Alpini and Kaiserjäger were specialized mountain units recruited from the Alps who could fight effectively in Alpine landscapes due to their physical endurance from their experience with mountaineering. These hardened soldiers could withstand long marches up the steep mountain terrain while hauling heavy packs, weapons and ammunition.

The Austrians and Italians militarized the mountains with a labyrinth of tunnels, bunkers and trenches still visible today. But the peaks and crags took no sides. The mountains were both protector and executioner. Each winter soldiers faced a common enemy they called “white death”. Blizzards, subzero temperatures, avalanches and falling rocks ravaged brave souls on the front line as much as bullets and bombs. In fact, after a brutal snowstorm in December of 1916, avalanches buried more than 10,000 Italian and Austrian troops over a two-day period.

When the war ended in November 1918, South Tyrol, once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, was ceded to Italy. Drei Zinnen, which translates to Three Merlons, then also became officially known as Tre Cime di Lavaredo. For this reason, we refer to the peaks by all of its common names in this hiking guide.

How to Hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen

The two most famous ways to experience Drei Zinnen are by hiking the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit or the Lavaredo Saddle. Both are jaw-dropping. Determining which one to hike depends on how much time you want to spend exploring the Three Peaks and your fitness level.

Drei Zinnen Hiking Option #1: The Tre di Cime Lavaredo Circuit

Hiking the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit will take 4-5 hours. Some guides indicate 3 hours, but breezing around the 6+ mile (10 km) trail at that speed is like climbing the Eiffel Tower and claiming you experienced Paris.

Many hiking guides also erroneously state hiking the loop is easy. It is not. In our opinion, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit is moderately difficult. The hike is not dangerous, but there are steep and long ascents in parts that may require taking an occasional break to catch your breath.

We stress these points because we have met many elderly hikers struggling to hike the loop. On more than one occasion, they have told us they expected the hike to be much easier and not take so long. They were especially concerned as daylight was fading fast and they still had 1/3 of the route left to hike. Finding yourself unexpectedly exhausted or rushed is no way to experience the mountains.

Drei Zinnen Hiking Option #2: The Tre di Cime Lavaredo Saddle

The Tre di Cime Lavaredo Saddle hike allows you to experience most of the epic sights of the loop but is easier making it ideal for those concerned about time and energy. It begins and ends at the same starting point, however instead of sweeping you all the way across the northern faces of the Three Peaks, the hike leads you back on much of the same trail, which is relatively flat throughout unlike the circuit.

By embarking on the Lavaredo Saddle hike you will ultimately trek more miles, but the less demanding trail means it can be hiked in 3 hours or less.

With all of this said, our recommendation is the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit hike for anyone who is reasonably fit (including school-aged kids) and can afford to give most of their day to the Three Peaks. As long as you plan accordingly, the loop hike is one of the most rewarding adventures in all of South Tyrol.

Step-by-Step Hiking Directions

The following details how to hike both the Tre di Cime Lavaredo Circuit or the Lavaredo Saddle. These two hikes use the same route until reaching the Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler.

From Rifugio Auronzo to the Forcella Lavaredo Ridge

Begin your adventure by departing from the Rifugio Auronzo mountain hut on trail no. 101. This trail carries you north across the debris cone of the southern faces of the Three Peaks. From your left to right they are known as the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo / Westliche Zinne (Western Peak), Cima Grande di Lavaredo / Große Zinne (Big Peak) and Cima Piccola di Lavaredo / Kleine Zinne (Small Peak). The tallest, Cima Grande, has a height of 9,839 ft. (2,999 m).

CROWD AVOIDING TIP: If you are planning to hike the circuit and notice large crowds departing from Rifugio Auronzo on trail no. 101, you can opt to go clockwise around the Three Peaks by taking trail no. 105.

Cadini Mountains on Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike — Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo floods you with an ocean of mountain scenery. The amount of peaks you encounter on the hike is overwhelming.

Gazing eastward you will see the Cadini Group (also known as Cadini di Misurina). This frantic chain of peaks, spires and crags stab the sky with such jagged fury they seem hellbent on making the heavens crash to earth. Towards the south lies a deep river valley where you can glimpse the village of Giralba and the town of Auronzo di Cadore.

After 30 minutes or so you will reach the Santa Maria Ausiliatrice chapel (also known as the Cappella degli Alpini). Built in 1928, this small church was founded by the Alpini in memory of the Bersaglieri regiments (sharpshooters) that fought in the war of which 32,000 were killed and 50,000 wounded.

Walking around the church you will come across a monument honoring mountaineer Paul Grohmann. In 1869, he was the first person to climb the Cima Grande. Amazingly in the same year, he also became the first alpinist to conquer the equally imposing summits of Sassolungo in South Tyrol’s Val Gardena.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 6

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Paul Grohmann Monument

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 7 — The Angel of the Fallen is a must-see when hiking Tre Cime.

HIDDEN GEM: Near the church another trail branches to the right leading you downslope into a boulder-riddled pasture. If you take this, it will bring you to another beautiful sight honoring the soldiers who fought here. “The Angel of the Fallen” monument is the work of Ancona Vittorio Monelli, who was a sharpshooter during the war. Nearby the monument is also a somber memorial cross worth visiting. If you are lucky, you will also have a chance to admire horses grazing around the landmarks.

As you continue on trail no. 101 take a moment to look behind you. The soaring view of Mount Cristallo just beyond the Santa Maria Ausiliatrice chapel is reason enough to do the Tre Cime hike.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 8 — Mount Cristallo looms behind the Santa Maria Ausiliatrice chapel.

Shortly after the chapel, you will come to the second mountain hut of Drei Zinnen, Rifugio Lavaredo. It sits below the Forcella Lavaredo ridge, the first viewpoint of the northern faces of the Three Peaks. By the way, “Forcella” means saddle or fork. If the hut is open, we suggest fueling up here with a beer or meal before venturing upslope to the Forcella Lavaredo. Not sure what to order? Discover the 10 must-try foods of South Tyrol.

From the hut’s terrace, you can soak in sweeping views of the Cadini Group and the Marmarole Group, which soars even further to the west and is home to Mount Antelao, also known as the “King of the Dolomites”. This thundering mountain storms up 10,700+ ft (3,200+ m) and is the second tallest in the Dolomites.

At Rifugio Lavaredo, you have two options to reach the Forcella Lavaredo ridge. You can head to your left and negotiate a relatively steep mountain pass beneath the Cima Piccola peak directly to the ridge or you can stay straight and meander a wider trail that winds slowly up the mountainside. We have hiked both and they offer different perspectives that are equally fascinating.

HIDDEN GEM: If you take the meandering route, it will bring you around crumbling fortifications from World War I and above a small body of water called Laghi di Lavaredo. This “lake” is a far cry from the shimmering beauty of Lago di Braies, but is still an intriguing sight to behold on such a desolate mountainscape.

Upon reaching the Forcella Lavaredo ridge (8,000+ ft / 2,450+ m) you will be rewarded with a sight that is positively enthralling in its magnitude, intensity and stark beauty. Taking in the entirety of the Three Peaks at this close range is not so much a view, but a phenomenon.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 9 — The Forcella Ridge gives you the first iconic view of Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

HIDDEN GEM: From the Forcella Ridge, we recommend walking toward the base of the Cima Piccola peak. There you will find a plaque mounted on a boulder commemorating the day when Pope John Paul II hiked Tre Cime to pray and admire the setting sun at the foot of the Three Peaks. Inscribed on it is the phrase “Do not be afraid”, the wisdom he shared most often during his papacy.

You will also find the remains of military fortifications here as the Forcella Ridge made for an ideal eagled-eye post to spot enemy movement. In fact, during the war, Italian troops positioned a giant spotlight on the Cime Grande peak to pinpoint patrols approaching the Three Peaks.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 10 — The panorama to the north from the Forcella Lavaredo.

Across the Lavaredo Saddle to Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 11 — Austrian mountain guide, Sepp Innerkofler, was killed on Mount Paterno on July 4th, 1915.

Moving beyond the Forcella Lavaredo ridge stay on trail no. 101 and descend to a stretch known as the Lavaredo Saddle. Above the saddle looms Mount Paterno (Paternkofel). This 9,000+ ft. giant (2,700+ m) is a beautifully-shaped mountain that played a major role during the war. It is scarred with tunnels and caves that served as machine-gun nests and supply routes.

During a nighttime attack in the summer of 1915, the famous mountaineer, Sepp Innerkofler, who was also an Austrian soldier, fell to his death while leading a patrol up Mount Paterno. Italian sharpshooters spotted the men and shot Innerkofler. It is said they were distraught upon discovering who they killed as many were local alpinists who admired the well-known mountain guide. Innerkofler’s body was laid to rest on the summit of Mount Paterno and eventually moved to a cemetery in Sexten after the war.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 12 — The Lavaredo Saddle sweeps across the debris cone of Mount Paterno.

As you hike along the saddle, behind you the southern profile of Tre Cime will continue to fully unfold. Sprawling beneath the peaks is a massive ashen-grey debris cone and then the Lange Alm — a mountain pasture that looks as if it is the graveyard of the Alps.

The saddle will gradually begin to ascend and you will soon see the Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler (Dreizinnenhütte) mountain hut perched on a plateau. The original hut that once stood here was operated by Sepp Innerkofler and his wife Maria. It is was destroyed by artillery on the first day of the war in the Dolomites.

The Dreizinnenhütte was rebuilt after the war and named after Antonio Locatelli, a highly-decorated aviation ace celebrated by Italians for his bravery during World War I. He was killed in the massacre of Lechemti in Ethiopia in 1936.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 13 — Rifugio Locatelli -Innerkofler sits beneath Sasso di Sesto and Torre di Toblin, each held by an opposing army during the war. Notice the series of “caves” on the lower face of Sasso di Sesto.

The Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler offers a large outdoor seating area to rest and satisfy your appetite if open. Few mountain huts in the Dolomites boast a better view.

CROWD AVOIDING TIP: Most hikers will cluster and linger in front of Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler before continuing the journey. To enjoy the Three Peaks panorama in silence, we recommend hiking just beyond the hut, passing by a small chapel, and plopping down on a plateau stretching to the north. From here, you will enjoy an unbeatable view of the Three Peaks and Mount Paterno in all their soaring glory.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 14

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Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 16 — A view to a thrill.

After admiring the peaks turn around and look up at Sasso di Sesto (Sextenstein). This mountain houses a series of caves that were actually Alpini bunkers during World War I. A somewhat steep trail leads up to them allowing you to capture the iconic image of the Three Peaks framed by stone.

The higher summit just beyond Sasso di Sesto is the Torre di Toblin (Toblinger Knoten). On these tower-like peaks, the Kaiserjäger were hunkered down giving you a sense for how scary thin the Alpine front was.

HIDDEN GEM: Once you are ready to peel your eyes away from Tre Cime, hike back to Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler. Behind the hut head downslope to view the Alpe dei Piani in the Altenstein Valley. This valley sits beneath the broad Schusterplatte mountain (Lastron dei Scarperi) and holds the mirror-still Lakes of Piani (Laghi dei Piani). Two are immediately visible, but if you trek down into the valley you will find the third lake beneath the Birkenkofel mountain (Crode dei Piani).

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 17 — Laghi di Piani is a sparkling gem not to miss when hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

At this point, if you only intended to trek the Lavaredo Saddle hike, begin your journey back to Rifugio Auronzo by taking trail no. 101 again. The wonderful part about this return hike is that it allows you to see the mountains with a fresh perspective. The cloud cover at such elevations is constantly shifting. Odds are you will enjoy sights missed on the way to Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler.

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Over the Lange Alm to Malga Langalm

To continue the Tre Cime Circuit hike, follow signs for trail no. 102. This trail leads you down to the Lange Alm where will you then trek across the northern faces of Drei Zinnen.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 18

As you descend a series of switchbacks into the alm you will encounter otherworldly terrain undulating over a vast debris field. The chasm yawning into the abyss on your right side is the Rienztal (Val Rienza). If you were to hike to the valley floor you would meet the Rienz river, which snakes through the Dolomites to Dürrensee (Lago di Landro) and Toblacher See (Lago di Dobbiaco).

Eventually, you will come to a shoulder where the trail steepens significantly. Here, you will take trail no. 105 and make the grueling trek upward onto the Lange Alm. Fortunately, at the midway point, there is a log bench inviting a seat and rest if you need it.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 19 — You will hike by this fascinating ruin on the way to the Lange Alm. Unfortunately, its purpose during the war is seemingly lost to history.

When the trail levels out you will be face-to-face with the Three Peaks. At this range, you can study the geological character lines carved by epochs of time impossible to fathom.

Looking to the north across the Riezntal you will see another soaring peak: Torre dei Scarperi (Schwabenalpenkopf). This Dolomites’ cast member appears as if it once was an Ancient Greek ruin. To its west is a Monte Rudo (Rautkofel), a blunt saw of peaks that curls to the south like a hook.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 20 — Torre dei Scarperi is a stunning mountain towering opposite the Three Peaks.

HIDDEN GEM: After crossing a creek, you will be on a slope called Col de Forcellina. From here, you can spot three small ponds offering the opportunity to capture Tre Cime reflecting on their surfaces.

If you didn’t relax with refreshments at any of the previous rifugios, the Malga Langalm mountain hut sits off the trail just minutes ahead. Of course, you can still stop here even if you did. Nothing in the hiking world comes close to matching the charm of South Tyrol’s mountainside taverns.

Make the Epic Return

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 21 — Bidding a final farewell to the northern faces of Drei Zinnen.

Beyond the Malga Langalm, trail no. 105 gradually begins to curve around the Three Peaks. Now is a good time to take note of Tre Cime’s fourth and fifth peaks. Yes, the 3 Peaks actually have 5. Sasso di Landro and Torre Lavaredo anchor the eastern flank and are the runts of the bunch.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 22 — Enjoy refreshments with an awe-inspiring spectacle at Rifugio Auronzo.

After traversing a ridge, the Tre Cime Circuit re-enters the debris cone and you will hike the scree slope until arriving at the southern side of Drei Zinnen. The trail on this stretch is narrower so if there are hikers approaching you from the south, skip soaking in the views of Monte Piana and Monte Piano, two mountain plateaus on your right that were fiercely contested by the Italians and Austrians during the war.

The trail eventually widens beyond the debris cone providing plenty of opportunities to let your jaw drop at the sight of the Cadini Group, Mount Cristallo and even Lago di Misurina if the clouds comply. The mountains will undoubtedly look different from when you began the hike 4-5 hours earlier.

The remainder of the hike from here is beneath the Sasso di Landro and Torre Lavaredo summits. Once you arrive back at Rifugio Auronzo we strongly advise stopping in to sip an adult beverage of your choice and at least one helping of apple strudel. You’ve earned both.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen Map

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When to Visit Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen

When is the best time to hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo? The short answer is whenever you have the time and means. It is a hike every mountain lover should embark on once in their life. However; if you want to experience Dre Zinnen without dodging throngs of people on the trail avoid visiting during the summer months.

Instead, plan to hike the Three Peaks in September through mid-October. The only downside with this timeframe is that the mountain huts may begin closing in late September and you can encounter more unpredictable weather. Snow is unlikely, but definitely not out of the question in the Dolomites as you approach the heart of autumn. Pack accordingly (see below for what to bring).

In terms of the best time of day to hike the Three Peaks, we suggest hitting the trail before 9:00 a.m. It will be less busy and by the time you reach Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler you should be able to enjoy the sunlight washing over the faces of Cima Ovest, Cima Grande and Cima Piccola.

How to Look Up Tre Cime Weather

Since we recommend hiking Tre Cime in the fall, it is helpful to know how to look up the weather forecast for the region. We have found Bergfex to be a reliable source for Tre Cime weather. They are one of the few weather outlets to provide a multi-day forecast and expected conditions by the hour.

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What to Bring on Your Hike

Hiking Poles – Most of the Three Peaks hike takes place on a trail with crushed gravel that can be loose and slick in parts. We suggest bringing hiking poles for those less sure on their feet or who have knee issues.

Hiking Boots (not shoes) – You can certainly hike Tre Cime in athletic shoes, but we always recommend wearing hiking boots for extra ankle support.

Hat, Gloves & Sunglasses – If visiting in the fall, gloves and a hat are a must. You can be warm one minute and the next chilled by a breeze swooping down from the summits.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 24 — In autumn, be prepared for all types of weather…and to wait for the Three Peaks to awaken.

Jacket & Layers – Again if visiting in the fall, make sure to have a decent jacket and toss an extra sweater into your backpack. If the forecast calls for a chance of rain, it probably will. So it doesn’t hurt to have a compact rain poncho in your backpack as well.

Water & Snacks – We always fill up a couple of water bottles before hiking in South Tyrol. You will definitely want at least one water bottle hiking Drei Zinnen. Trail snacks are also wise as you may arrive at a hut not open or filled up with other hikers.

Cash – Not all huts accept cards so we always recommend having some cash on hand. If you plan to have a meal with beer or wine you can expect to spend €20-€25.00.

Patience – The Three Peaks sits among the heavens. At times the mountains will be shrouded in clouds, but if you are willing to wait they will eventually make an appearance, and hopefully a grand one at that.

Where to Stay Near the Three Peaks

The Drei Zinnen Nature Park is almost three hours east of Bolzano, the largest city in South Tyrol. You can visit Tre Cime di Lavaredo by doing a day trip from the city, but we highly recommend staying in the Dolomites.

The nearest mountain towns are Toblach (Dobaccio), Sexten (Sesto), Innichen (San Candido) and Cortina d’ Ampezzo. All of these are 30-40 minutes from the nature park. Any will make a great base for your Drei Zinnen hiking adventure.

During our Tre Cime hiking adventures, we stayed at Nigglerhof, a lovely rustic family farm on a mountainside high above Toblach, as well as at a boutique eco-retreat in nearby Val di Casies (read about our getaway to Fontis Eco Farm & Suites). Both destinations were ideal for exploring the Three Peaks and enjoying the perks of alpine wellness along with the historic charms of the surrounding villages.

If you wish to stay with Tre Cime di Lavaredo in your backyard, another option is to overnight at one of the three mountain huts offering lodging: Rifugio Auronzo, Rifugio Lavaredo and Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler. Keep in mind these are only open early summer through early fall.

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Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob

Updated: December 18, 2021

The Church of St. Jakob offers one of the most awe-inspiring vistas in the Dolomites. Discover how to hike to the oldest and highest church in Val Gardena.

It is rather fitting that a church reachable by foot alone is consecrated to the patron saint of pilgrims and hikers. The Church of St. Jakob (also known as St. Jacob, Chiesa di San Giacoma and Dlieja da Sacun in Ladin) shines like a lantern hung above the steep evergreen slopes of Val Gardena.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 28 — A trail signpost showing the three languages spoken in Val Gardena: Ladin, German and Italian.

The oldest and highest church in the valley, the Church of St. Jakob is a late-Gothic style beauty brandishing a bell tower emblazoned with brilliant white stone. It sits at an elevation of more than 5,000 ft. — clearly once a guiding light to weary pilgrims from afar.

The church was built along an ancient road called “Troi Paian” or “Pagan’s Pathway”. This trade route dates to the Bronze Age and one time connected Venetia with South Tyrol’s Valle Isarco.

The exact date of the church’s founding is as knowable as a mountain lost in the clouds. Some historians believe it dates to the year 1181 due to a carving in the bell tower. However, the first mention of the Church of St. Jakob in an official document was in 1283.

Yet according to local legend, the church was built by the Counts of Stetteneck, who reigned in the late 13th century. The legend itself is quite entertaining.

Legend of the Golden Cup

Count Gebhard von Stetteneck of Val Gardena once went with his son Jakob (not the actual Saint Jakob) in search of a relative who allegedly lived with another noble in Santiago de Compostela, a city in northwestern Spain. This Spanish Count it is said had a beautiful daughter who immediately fell in love with the younger Count of Val Gardena. Jakob, however, took no notice of her affection much to the daughter’s dismay.

In revenge for the young Count’s disinterest in her, she secretly hid her father’s golden cup in Jakob’s luggage prior to his travel back to Val Gardena. When her father noticed the precious cup missing the following day he immediately sent his servants after Gebhard and Jakob at the urging of his daughter.

Upon catching up with the counts, the servants searched Jakob’s luggage and indeed found the missing cup. The servants demanded Jakob return to face their lord.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 29

Jakob well aware of his innocence did not hesitate to go with the servants. He told his father: “You know that I did not steal the cup, so help me God; go home, I will come soon.”

But when Jakob never returned, Gebhard became concerned and went back to the city of the Spanish count. How terrified he was when he saw his son hanging from the gallows in front of the city walls! The count had sentenced Jakob to death for the alleged theft of the cup.

When Gebhard came closer to the gallows, he saw his son was not dead at all, but alive! He rushed to the city judge demanding permission to take Jakob off the gallows. But the judge, who had just sat down at a table with his wife to enjoy a roasted chicken, said mockingly: “Your son is a thief and belongs on the gallows and, moreover, is already as dead as this chicken here in my pan!”

But then the roasted chicken rose and suddenly flew away! This miracle prompted the judge to rush to the gallows where he found the young Count of Val Gardena alive. He immediately proclaimed Jakob’s innocence allowing him to be lowered and returned to an overjoyed Gebhard.

In gratitude for this wonderful salvation, the Count, upon returning to Val Gardena, immediately set out to build the Church of St. Jakob with his son. It soon became a much-visited place of pilgrimage. So much so the church grew in great wealth and the people of Val Gardena used to say: “If you want to have a rich husband or wife, you must go to St. Jakob’s Church!”

What to See at St. Jakob

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 30

Despite its relatively small stature, the Church of St. Jakob offers a number of wonders worth appreciating. First and foremost is its famous mountainside setting.

If you arrive at the church by descending the trail from Seceda, you will be rewarded with the sight of the church’s spire seemingly soaring over the crags of Mt. Sassolungo. A bench rests on the hilltop right above the church.

We recommend taking a seat to let the jaw-dropping scene steep your soul. And if you are single this is a good perch to spot any wealthy church patrons worth courting. May the legend of the golden cup be forever in your favor!

Inside St. Jakob

st. jakob church visit — The outside of St. Jacob is rather simple, but inside is a feast for the eyes.

While the exterior of St. Jakob is late-Gothic, its interior showcases a variety of architectural stylings from Romanesque to Baroque. On its walls, you can admire, as well as attempt to decipher, several frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries, some hopelessly faded and others remarkably vivid.

Passing through the church’s nave you will come to a fresco near the pulpit. This artwork depicts the legend of St. Jakob, who is perhaps better known as St. James the Great, one of the first apostles of Jesus.

His remains are reportedly buried beneath the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain — giving some credence to the Counts of Stetteneck being the founders of the church per the above legend. It’s interesting to note that the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is one of only three churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus, the other two being St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City and St. Thomas Cathedral Basilica in India.

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St. Jakob was also the first apostle to be martyred. In 44 A.D. Herod Agrippa, king of Judea, ordered him to be beheaded.

Also, next to the pulpit are oil paintings of the Virgin Mary from the 18th century. As you walk into the church’s sanctuary, you will pass beneath an arch filled with frescoes of five female saints including St. Mary Magdelene and St. Catherine of Alexandria.

The altar is classic Baroque. It beams with sky-blue columns surrounded by gold-gilded woodcarvings from Val Gardena. The altar oil painting depicts a unique nativity scene with a knight and an infant Jesus holding a globus cruciger (an orb surmounted by a cross) — symbolizing dominion over the world.

The St. Jakob Cemetery

Outside the church, enclosed by a stone wall, is a small cemetery. You should walk through this graveyard to admire the great care South Tyroleans take to beautify and honor those at rest.

A weathered yet gorgeous wood-carved wayside shrine greets you near the entrance. Throughout the cemetery, you will see additional woodcarvings and wrought iron crucifixes exemplifying the expert craftsmanship of the locals.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 32 — Top right: Kate studies the mural of St. Christopher on St. Jakob’s outer wall.

Also worth admiring are the late Gothic frescoes from 1450 on the south-facing wall of the church. They still possess remarkable color and detail. The most celebrated depicts St. Christopher with Jesus as a child perched on his shoulder.

Before departing the cemetery, duck into a tiny stone shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. On the wall to the left, you will see a painting of a fallen soldier along with a list of names, presumably of residents who gave their lives in battle.

How to Visit St. Jakob

We think the most rewarding way to visit the Church of St. Jakob is to hike down from the ridgeline of Seceda through the forest of Mt. Balest. See our guide to hiking Seceda for step-by-step directions.

If that sounds too challenging or time-consuming you can also reach the church by walking the Legend of St. Jakob Trail. This forested trail begins behind the parish church of S. Cristina — a charming town town less than 20 minutes from Ortisei.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 33 — St. Jakob Church is the heart of the Segra Sacun festival in October.

Plan on 2+ hours to walk to the church and back. If you are in South Tyrol in early October, you may want to consider timing your visit with a village festival called “Segra Sacun”.

We attended the Segra Sacun festival during our last visit to St. Jakob and had the opportunity to join an outdoor mass in front of the church. This traditional service was followed by a fun celebration offering local specialties, beer and wine.

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Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 34

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites

Updated: December 18, 2021

Sassolungo and its brotherhood of peaks storm into the sky with such sudden fury they command exploration. Here’s how to hike this sprawling stone wilderness of the Dolomites.

WHAT MAKES THE DOLOMITES so enthralling? For us, it’s how they seemingly tower from Earth as if on pedestals.

They loom like monolithic works of art defying the lull of sleepy meadows and forested glens. A frantic spectacle of crags, spires and precipices malleted into mountain form by an ancient god gone insane.

This unique posturing of the Dolomites allows one to admire many of its mountains from practically every angle. And that is exactly what makes the Sassolungo Group a favorite to explore — you can witness all the wild faces of this massif in a single day.

About the Sassolungo Group

Before diving into how to hike around the Sassolungo Group allow us to share some background information so you can fully appreciate its lofty stature among the mountains of South Tyrol.

The Sassolungo Group is a chain of five major mountains with a footprint of more than 17 miles all around. Its most prominent peaks are Mt. Sassolungo and Mt. Sasso Piatto.

The tallest summit, Mt. Sassolungo, also commonly known as Langkofel, which means “Long Stone” in German, soars to a height of more than 10,000 feet (3,181 m). It anchors the eastern end of the massif and is the perennial crown of Val Gardena — impossible to miss roaring over the tree tops when driving through the valley.

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 36 — Mt. Sassolungo, on the left, rules over all the summits making up the massif.

Mt. Sasso Piatto (Plattkofel i.e. “Flat Stone”) anchors the western end at a height of nearly 10,000 feet (2,956 m). This mountain appears as if a colossal sickle swept off half its face. It is the first summit you will see when hiking across the Alpe di Siusi from the north.

The major peak rising after Mt. Sassolungo is the Grohmannspitze, also known as Punta Grohmann and Mt. Sasso Levante. Named after Paul Grohmann, an alpinist who in 1869 was the first to conquer the summits of Sassolungo, the Grohmannspitze is a treacherous mass of jags teetering over 10,000 feet.

The Grohmannspitze is followed by a summit called Innerkofler Turm (Torre Innerkofler), which rises before the iconic bear claw peak of Sassolungo known as Zahnkofel (Il Dente).

⟹ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Ultimate Tre Cime Di Lavaredo Hiking Guide

How to Hike Sassolungo

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 37

Hiking the Sassolungo Group can be achieved multiple ways depending on your schedule, fitness level and where you choose to begin the hike. We cover two half-day hikes that you can turn into a really full day (7-8 hours) circling the entire massif if you have the time…and energy.

Both of these hikes overwhelm you with a tidal wave of mountain scenery. If you only have time to do one, pick the Sassolungo hike that appeals to you most based on the gallery of photos in this post.

By the way, the first hike we cover here is a tad easier on the legs so stick with that one if tiring is a major consideration. Each trail begins at the Passo Sella (Sellajoch) parking lot, which is a 25-minute drive from Ortisei (St. Ulrich), the main town of Val Gardena.

Hike #1: Passo Sella to Mt. Sassolungo

Sassolungo City of Stone — The “City of Stone” is a massive boulderfield at the foot of Sassolungo.

This Sassolungo hike winds you across the monstrous southwestern face of Mt. Sassolungo to its eastern profile. Along the trail, you also gaze up in awe at the Grohmannspitze and the Fünffingerspitze (Punta Cinquedita), the lowest peak comprising the Sassolungo massif.

Additionally, this hike exposes you to striking vistas of other ranges in the Dolomites. These include the Odle Group where you can see the fangs of Seceda scraping the sky to the east, as well as the Sella Group to the south, which hunkers the horizon like a prehistoric stone fortress.

However, what we think makes this hike particularly fascinating is the journey through the “City of Stone” (Steiner Stadt / Città dei Sassi). A vast wilderness of boulders, pines and flora, the City of Stone is the Dolomites in ruins.

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 38

Some 20,000 years ago, seismic forces shook Mt. Sassolungo’s broad shoulders sending boulders thundering to the earth. They settled into a maze-like formation creating a surreal landscape that is thrilling to explore and photograph.

To embark on the hike, walk past the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort next to the parking lot. A wide trail will lead to the one that branches off into the City of Stone. Look for the Trail No. 526 marker.

Depending how much you want to explore, you could spend an hour or two wandering the City of Stone. But if you choose to hike straight through, do not leave the “city” without at least hopping on a few of the boulders. The grand views of the Sella Group framed by the megalithic rubble is jaw-dropping.

As you continue heading east on Trail No. 526, you will eventually leave the City of Stone and ascend a small ridge with a wayside shrine that overlooks the Sella Group. Here, a trail dives to the south, but stay on Trail No. 526 and venture downhill into what is known as the Gran Paradiso.

This wide open stretch allows you to really appreciate the immensity of Mt. Sassolungo. At the end of the Gran Paradiso, you will enter a patch of trees and find the Rifugio Emilio Comici. A popular mountainside restaurant, the Comici hut sits on the southeastern edge of Mt. Sassolungo offering clear panoramas of the Sella Group and Seceda.

Unfortunately, it was closed when we arrived, but we did find a sweet spot to dine al fresco. Hidden on the slope above the restaurant, is a picnic table where you can relax like you are king of the mountain.

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 54 — Studying the mighty walls of Mt. Sassolungo.

Beyond Rifugio Emilio Comici, look for Trail No. 526A. This trail cuts across the eastern wall of Mt. Sassolungo. It runs tighter to the face of the mountain thus the trail steepens in parts with swaths of shale and rubble. Extra attention is wise on this stretch. We hiked on this side of Mt. Sassolungo for another 30 minutes before turning around due to fading daylight.

If you are on this end of the mountain in the afternoon, do not count on sunlight. However, the hike back to the Sella Passo parking late in the day will reward you with a blizzard of color as the setting sun bounces off the mountain peaks.

Hike #2: Passo Sella to Mt. Sasso Piatto

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 55 — Soaking in the view of the Grohmannspitze.

This hike leads you from Passo Sella across the southern and western faces of the Sassolungo Group to the foot of Mt. Sasso Piatto. The other Sassolungo mountains you will encounter up close on this stretch include Zahnkofel, Innerkofler Turm and Grohmannspitze.

Beyond Sassolungo, this hike also offers sweeping views of the “Queen of the Dolomites” — Marmolada. Soaring to a height of 10,968 feet (3,342 m), Marmolada is the highest mountain in the Dolomites. Its north face is mantled by a massive glacier that beams like a beacon in the Italian sun.

In addition to Marmolada, a garland of other peaks can be admired during this hike including Col Rodella of Val di Fassa, the sawtooth spires of the Rosengarten and the great rhino horn of Mt. Schlern towering past the vast expanse of the Alpe di Siusi. On a clear day, you can even spy the snow-capped Ötztal Alps on the far northern horizon.

Begin the hike by heading west from the parking lot towards the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort. A variety of trails branch off by the resort. Take Trail No. 557. This is the Friedrich August Weg, named after a Saxon king who loved rambling hikes.

After an initial steep ascent, you will come to the charming Rifugio Friedrich August. If you need a break now, by all means, take it here. Otherwise, continue on Trail No. 557 and plan to visit the hut on your return.

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 83 — Even the smaller peaks astound on Sassolungo.

From the Friedrich August Rifugio the views become ever more grand. The remainder of the hike winds along the foot of Sassolungo. Much of the trail is level but you will encounter short climbs and descents throughout.

After 2 hours you will reach the Rifugio Sasso Piatto (Plattkofelhutte), which sits at the base of the flat slope of Mt. Sasso Piatto. Here, we recommend resting with a hearty meal and drink before making the trek back to the Passo Sella parking lot.

When to Hike Sassolungo

If you want to share Sassolungo with throngs of other hikers, plan your visit during the summer. However, if you are like us and want the mountains all your own, the best time to hike Sassolungo is late May / early June and early October.

The only potential downside going early or late in the traditional hiking season of the Dolomites is that not all of the nine mountains huts dotting Sassolungo may be open. The same goes for the lift stations that operate around the mountain if you are hoping for a ride up the slopes.

In terms of the best time of day to hike Sassolungo, you cannot go wrong in the morning or afternoon if you are embarking on one of the half-day hikes. The sunrises and sunsets around Sassolungo are radiant treasures you remember long after you are gone.

Where to Stay to Hike Sassolungo

The **Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof** is ideally located for hiking Sassolungo.

If you are going to conquer the Sassolungo Group, why not stay where you have a balcony view of its dramatic beauty? We picked the charming Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof in Ortisei for this reason alone.

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 84

In addition to being within easy reach of Sassolungo, the hotel is conveniently located for embarking on hikes to Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi, as well as exploring the remarkable woodcarving shops of Val Gardena.

Furthermore, you will fall in love with the hotel’s pool and spa area after a long day of hiking. It’s an idyllic Alpine setting to rest and recharge your legs for another adventure the following day.

Tips & Considerations for Hiking Sassolungo

Want a full day adventure? Consider hiking the Sassolungo Circuit. The best views come by heading clockwise around the massif. To circle Sassolungo, take Trail No. 527 from the August Friedrich Weg mentioned in hike #2 to Trail No. 525, which connects with Trail No. 526A to Trail No. 526 both mentioned in hike #1.
The parking lot is free in the “off season”, but expect to pay if hiking Sassolungo in the summer.
Instead of driving to the Passo Sella, consider taking a public bus. The Val Gardena Mobil Card allows free use of buses in the region. Bus No. 471 will pick you up in Ortisei or Selva and drop you off right by the trailheads.
Neither of the hikes in this post are overly difficult or dangerous, but those less sure on their feet should bring hiking poles for extra support.
Pack water and snacks for your hike. A convenient place to pick up these items is the Despar grocery store in downtown Selva (Wolkenstein).
When hiking the August Friedrich Weg in the afternoon you will have plenty of sun exposure. Pack sunscreen lotion and sunglasses.
It can be chilly at times during late spring and early fall so be sure to wear a light jacket and pack gloves and a hat. For tips on hiking gear and clothing to wear while hiking Sassolungo, access the guide in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library.
As always, pay attention to the day’s forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.
Do not kiss the marmots no matter how much they tempt you.
If you are hiking Sassolungo during the summer, consider hopping the cable car scaling the Sassolungo wind gap, which is sandwiched between the peaks of Mt. Sassolungo and Fünffingerspitze. At the top, you can take an eagle eye seat at the Rifugio Toni Demetz. The cable car station is near the Passo Sella parking lot with a giant “Sassolungo” sign on its roof.
If you plan to use the lifts while in Val Gardena, save yourself money by purchasing the Gardena Card.

TAP TO SAVE SASSOLUNGO TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD

Hiking Sassolungo: The Wildest Peaks in the Dolomites 85

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites

Updated: December 18, 2021

The foothills bounding beneath the Dolomites brim with natural beauty and cultural intrigue. Lucky for us, the Oachner Höfeweg Farm Trail circles through the heart of it all.

YOU MIGHT THINK the Dolomites ought to occupy all your time while exploring South Tyrol, but as utterly awe-inspiring as the Pale Mountains are, they reflect only a sliver of the region’s splendor.

To really appreciate the melody of landscapes ravishing South Tyrol, we recommend rambling the foothills of the Dolomites, specifically those rollicking the Alpe di Siusi region. Such a hike intimately immerses you in the rural richness of the land and its people.

In this post, we take you on a crisp autumn journey across the Oachner Höfeweg — also known as the “Farm Trail of Aica di Fié” and “Sentiero dei masi”. As you’ll see, this half-day hike bobs and weaves through prolific pastoral scenery punctuated with mountain-shouldered forests, lushly fruited slopes and centuries-old farmsteads rooted in the stones of Ancient Rome.

Crowned with a Castle

The Oachner Höfeweg is a circular 8-mile hike with multiple trailhead locations. You can be on the trail within a matter of minutes from virtually anywhere in the Völs am Schlern (Fiè allo Sciliar) region.

Since we were lodging at the bliss-inducing Romantik Hotel Turm, we opted to begin the trek at the foot of the Prösels Castle. This 13th-century behemoth thunders atop a hillside less than 10 minutes from the resort.

The trailhead, here, sits next to a parking lot below the castle. While you can choose to hike the path in either direction, we followed the sign pointing west toward St. Kathrein (S. Caterina).

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 87

Heading away from the castle, the Oachner Höfeweg cuts through a thicket of trees before ascending into a patch of pastureland peppered with cows, barns and sprawling panoramas of Völs am Schlern.

The forest eventually thinned revealing a picturesque Tyrolean farmhouse perched by hillside vineyard parading the season's gold.

Further off the horizon roars the mighty Schlern mountain. Unfortunately for us, the emblematic stone horn of South Tyrol was hidden beneath a shroud of morning clouds.

South Tyrol Barn — The village of Völs am Schlern can be admired from afar on the first leg of the hike.

From Towering Pines to Prancing Vines

Around 20 minutes into the hike, we wandered into a pine forest carpeted by moss, ferns and other evergreen flora. Deeper in we found a scattering of ruins and a stone structure known as the Wirtskeller. This medieval-aged cellar once preserved the wine, cheese and speck for the nobles of Prösels Castle.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 88

According to a sign posted nearby, cold air circulates year-round in the cellar through “Eislöcher” (ice holes). These holes channel cool air continuously streaming beneath the rock-riddled mountainside. Like a mountain-made refrigerator, the cellar always hovers around 13 °C (55 °F) as a result. In addition to cooling the cellar, the natural phenomena elevates the humidity in the surrounding forest promoting the abundant greenery mantling the trees, boulders and forest floor.

After failing to find any long-forgotten wine bottles stored in the Wirtskeller, we pressed on the Oachner Höfeweg. The forest eventually thinned revealing a picturesque Tyrolean farmhouse perched by a hillside vineyard parading the season’s gold.

We stood next to an old fence adoring the farmstead known as the Rieferhof. Its wooing rustic charm romanced our imagination. We told ourselves if this quaint farm ever went up for sale, we would move heaven and earth to buy it.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 89 — The Rieferhof farm charms all who pass by.

Perfumed By Apples

Reluctantly continuing on, we hopped back into the forest. Soon, we bounced downhill beyond the pines into a stand of apple trees.

Since it was harvest season, the trees bore no fruit but between the rows, we lustfully eyed bin after bin of newly plucked gems. These plump beauties belonged to the nearby Flungerhof farm.

As we dawdled past the orchard, freshly pressed South Tyrolean apples perfumed the trail. This honeyed fragrance could sweeten even those fated with the sourest mood.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 90

We later discovered Flungerhof cultivates mainly Golden Delicious and Royal Gala apples — among the most aromatic varieties in the world. Owned and operated by a mother and son team, the farm specializes in producing traditional apple cider vinegar, juices and syrups for the South Tyrol market.

this species-rich stretch of the hike made it well known autumn was abloom.

From Flungerhof, the Oachner Höfeweg led us through an underpass of the Tierser Strassee. After a few bends in the trail, we descended through a grove of beeches to a sun-steeped farm known as the Zalterhöfl.

Here, the trail borders this gorgeous property allowing hikers to marvel at the details of its Alpine barn and dwelling. They showcase an assortment of old farming tools and traditional Tyrolean accents that beautify from the foundations to the roofs.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 91

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 92 — The Zalterhöfl lies right along the Oachner Höfeweg.

A Garden of Groves

Our journey beyond the Zalterhöfl furrowed through a dramatically different kind of woodland where deciduous trees like chestnut, walnut and aspen dominated overhead. Unlike the dark, green pine forest of earlier, this species-rich stretch of the hike made it well known autumn was abloom.

The leaves were afire with color and the ground was littered with fallen chestnuts. Every now and then, the forest parted gifting us sweeping views far across the Eisack Valley (Valle Isarco) to grassy slopes holding villages unknown.

Fallen Chestnuts in South Tyrol — Heaps of chestnuts hit the trail in autumn.

We strolled within the forest for quite some time before trudging up a somewhat steep hill running near a meadow. Deep into the northern sky, we spied a steeple planted on the Renon (Ritten) high plateau above Bolzano.

Garnishing the slope of vines was a vegetable garden flush with herbaceous fortune.

Upon summiting the hill, we landed at the Tommelehof farmstead. Romantically ravaged by time yet still well maintained, the buildings on the farm gave us a fascinating peek into the rural life of South Tyroleans today and long ago.

The Tommelehof was first mentioned by the name “Mitterpsenner” in the year 1200. It was presumably at one time the site of an Ancient Roman watchtower with remnants of its stone walls still standing.

Mitterpsenner Farm — The Tommelehof farmstead traces its history back to Ancient Rome.

Today, the Tommelehof is a traditional farm stay. Guests can choose between three holiday apartments located in a nearby rustic building that once was a barn. However, the only guests we encountered were a sleepy pup on the porch and a stray chicken strutting back and forth.

Just beyond the farmstead, we hiked atop a vineyard careening into a shady grove. Garnishing the slope of vines was a vegetable garden flush with herbaceous fortune. The kitchen where these treasures toiled had to be divine.

Vino & the Valley

The next leg of the hike began to curl us southward through more chestnut-laden woodland. Here, we spotted a sign pointing us to Gemoanerhof — another historical farm offering apartments for guests as well as a Buschenschank: a traditional Tyrolean tavern and kitchen.

prackfol sudtiroler vernatsch — Every hike on the Oachner Hofeweg should include a wine tasting at the **Prackfol Wine Farm.** Learn more about this boutique winery in our **post** highlighting our visit.

As we were not hungry yet, we proceeded on the Oachner Höfeweg, which now steered us east toward the heart of Tires Valley. Soon, we came to the high-elevation vineyards of Prackfol — a lovely family-owned wine farm we toured the previous day.

We lingered here soaking in the same views as the day before. The idyllic scene framed by these fruited slopes is the stuff of storybooks. In the distance, like the blunted teeth of a mad man’s saw, teased the pale peaks of the Rosengarten, one of the most beloved sights of the Dolomites.

Past the Prackfol Wine Farm, we marched up a wooded enclave that eventually cleared unveiling pastureland yawning into the valley bottom. Like sleight of hand, the Rosengarten, once piercing clear, was now lost to us on the horizon. In only a matter of minutes, the cloud cover had swelled and the once sunny vale unfolded into a misty gloom.

We welcomed the break from the sun. The steady rise on this stretch of the Oachner Höfeweg seemed to have no end.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 93 — Peering deep into Tires Valley.

A Restful Mountain Tavern

After a thirst-quenching swig from our water bottles, we continued hiking along an old stone wall that looked as if it once guided Roman legions through this corner of South Tyrol. Below us, we spotted a few sheep carelessly nibbling on the grass above a berry orchard.

Within 20 minutes we came to Innerperskoler Hof — a farm and Buschenschank first mentioned in 1267. We could not ignore our hunger any longer so we slid into at a table on its terrace facing the Rosengarten.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 94

While waiting for our order of Schlutzkrapfen, Knödel and a Bauerngröstl we explored the farm. A swing set anchored above the farm’s vineyards invited a quick whirl.

Our adventure on the farm trail was so enamoring we returned the next day.

We then took a peek inside a tiny chapel on the farm. An inscription above the doorway indicated it was built in 1736. Inside, an ornate altar depicting St. Florian charmed us into leaving an offering.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 95 — The Innerperskoler Hof makes for a mouth-pleasing place to give your feet some rest.

After polishing off our meal and a delicious helping of Apfelstrudel, our feet found the Oachner Höfeweg again. While we longed to finish the trail loop, an afternoon spa appointment at Romantik Hotel Turm prompted us to trek back the way we came.

But we were not through with the Oachner Höfeweg yet. Our adventure on the farm trail was so enamoring we returned the next day to visit the Fronthof for a lunchtime Törggelen experience.

As the largest farmhouse in South Tyrol still fully preserved from the 1300s, this mountain tavern is worthy of its own post. Coming soon!

How to Hike the Oachner Höfeweg

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 96 — The Oachner Höfeweg is open all year, but autumn is when the trail dazzles the most.

Adding the Oachner Höfeweg to your South Tyrol itinerary makes the most sense if basing yourself in or near the Völs am Schlern area of the Alpe di Siusi region. The trail is open for adventure year-round.

As noted earlier, you can hop on and off the Oachner Höfeweg from multiple locations. Our recommendation is to begin from the parking lot situated beneath Prösels Castle. This will allow you to easily add a tour of the castle to your day if you wish.

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites 97

Another good starting point is the parking lot in the village of St. Kathrein (S. Caterina) near the old church of the same name.

Each trailhead has free public parking.

The Oachner Höfeweg is well marked so you will not have any issue navigating the hike. The signposts will also indicate which Buschenschanks you can expect to be open for dining.

If you intend to complete the entire loop, plan for at least half a day. In our experience, you could make this a full-day outing if you do not want to rush your time enjoying the taverns and wine farms dotted along the trail.

In terms of difficulty, anyone who is reasonably fit can handle traversing the Oachner Höfeweg. There is plenty of opportunities to rest along the way.

Hiking poles are not needed unless you simply like to have them for extra support. As always, we recommend packing water bottles and strapping on a backpack for adding or shedding layers as you ramble on.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites

Updated: December 18, 2021

How does a South Tyrolean restaurant boasting one of the most spectacular mountain vistas in the world win your heart? One bite at a time.

NO ONE WOULD fault Malga Schgaguler Schwaige if it rested on its laurels and let its jaw-dropping views do all the wowing. After all, the spellbinding sight of the Sassolungo Group storming over the billowy hills of Europe’s largest Alpine pasture — Alpe di Siusi — is enough to make any hiker forget their hunger.

But sitting back allowing the mountains to do most of the work is not in Walter and Martina Demetz’s character. A husband and wife team operating Malga Schgaguler Schwaige since 2016, they delight guests with sumptuous culinary creations and friendly down-to-earth service that makes you feel right at home.

We first experienced the charm of Malga Schgaguler Schwaige a few years ago on a spring hike across Alpe di Siusi. The dishes we enjoyed that day introduced us to the delectable wonders of homemade Alpine cuisine.

This past fall we had the pleasure of visiting Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again. We sat down with Walter to discover the story behind his cuisine and what it takes to run a remarkable restaurant in the Dolomites.

Where Rural Roots Run Deep

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 99 — The security team at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

The late Anthony Bourdain once said, “food, culture, people and landscape are all absolutely inseparable”. That sentiment could not ring more true than it does at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

Founded by Walter’s father and mother in 1991, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige offers traditional South Tyrolean dishes and specialties fresh from the family farm. Nearly all the restaurant’s ingredients — from milk and butter to eggs and cheese to speck and beef — are homegrown.

Sixty-four acres of pastureland surround Malga Schgaguler Schwaige where 15-20 cows enjoy the famous Alpine hay and herbs of Alpe di Siusi. The cows share their leafy bounty with a motley crew of other farm animals including horses, llamas, donkeys, pigs, chickens, peacocks, ducks, rabbits, sheep and a chill gang of goats that will bring a wide grin to your face when you meet them.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 100 — Other hikers are not the only souls you’ll encounter on a visit to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

Many of these extended members of Walter and Martina’s family roam freely on the grounds beneath the restaurant entertaining guests with their antics, chirps and chatter. In fact, children can dart around with them in a play area that includes a wooden tractor, playground set, sandbox, foosball table and a tempting trampoline.

By 7 a.m. Walter brings the cows down to the pastureland where they graze the day away until he corrals them back in the early evening.

Walking the farm with Walter, it is immediately evident that his passion for serving delicious dishes begins with a passion for his land and the farm animals he raises. He ensures the animals enjoy a free-range environment where they can thrive as stress-free as possible.

The result? Food that fully reveals robust and fresh flavors as nature intended. By following true farm-to-table tenets and not the latest culinary craze, Malga Schgagular Schwaige instills its dishes with an authentic spirit we find increasingly rare in the world today.

From Farm to Family

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 101 — Walter and Martina’s little helpers — Lea and Anna.

Walter, Martina and their three children, Lea, Anna and Max, live on the farm in a home adjoining the restaurant. All support the business albeit the youngsters can only serve up ample amounts of good cheer for now.

From 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Martina and Walter’s mother, Christine, conjures culinary magic in the kitchen while Walter and a staff member, Romina, tackle serving the guests. However, the hard work to make Malga Schgaguler Schwaige operate smoothly day after day begins much earlier.

As Walter shared with us, running a restaurant is much like orchestrating a concert: a mountain of work takes place prior to the show and backstage that the audience never sees. A typical day begins at the crack of dawn with farm work.

Schgugaler Schwaige Kitchen — Family rules the mountain kitchen. Martina, Christine, Walter and the family’s newest addition, Max, welcome guests with infectious smiles.

By 7 a.m. Walter brings the cows down to the pastureland where they graze the day away until he corrals them back in the early evening. The rest of the morning is dedicated to tending to the other farm animals, maintaining their property and prepping the day’s mouthwatering ingredients. In the summer, during hay cutting season, the days begin even earlier usually around 5:30 a.m. with non-stop work until 9:30 p.m.

In the wood-clad menus dotting the tables, you will discover a rich assortment of classic South Tyrolean cuisine to reward tired legs.

Of course, all that tiring work does not come without its rewards. When asked about his favorite season on Alpe di Siusi. Walter responded “every day!”. He noted a day does not go by without taking a moment to admire the breathtaking beauty of the mountains — especially in the early morning and at dusk when he has much of the pastureland to himself.

Taming Hooves & Steel

While free time is luxury when operating a farmhouse restaurant, Walter does find time to train for and race his horse, Buddy, in a traditional South Tyrolean event called the Oswald von Wolkenstein Ride. This annual tournament involves a series of horse rides and challenges that take place at four nearby castles.

In addition to horse riding and chasing his children around, Walter enjoys hitting the slopes and restoring old cars and motorcycles. When riding a horse isn’t possible, he also likes to gallop his Harley Davidson across the Alp.

The mountain hut itself has undergone many renovations since his grandfather built it in 1967. Walter envisions continuing to expand the farm and restaurant.

In the not-to-distant future, he would like to elevate the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige experience further by adding another stable. His hope is to make it a place where guests can also educate themselves about sustainable farming practices on the Alpe di Siusi.

Dining at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 102

Once you take a seat on the flower-drenched terrace of Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the enticing aromas swirling out of the kitchen eventually peel your eyes away from the mountain scenery. In the wood-clad menus dotting the tables, you will discover a rich assortment of classic South Tyrolean cuisine to reward tired legs.

We suggest beginning with a bowl of Speckknödelsuppe or a cheese and speck platter. Both are divine. These traditional South Tyrolean specialties have been passed down from one generation to the next for centuries.

Diving in you discover the warm chocolate filling of each dumpling.

If you are craving something less hearty you can also opt for a generous plate of Pasta Bolognese. After devouring your starter, consider the Frankfurter Sausage with Polenta or Beef Goulash with Cheese Knödel. Regardless, you will relish the mountain’s heart and soul in every tender bite.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 103 — Malga Schgaguler Schwaige serves up homemade hearty goodness every mountain and food lover should try.

If you have room for dessert (you absolutely should leave room for dessert), lavish your sweet tooth with Homemade Cream Cheese Dumplings. This sinful treat is like a present. Diving in you discover the warm chocolate filling of each dumpling. It will dazzle your eyes and mouth.

Another after-dinner delight to try is Kaiserschmarrn mit Preiselbeermarmelade. This pancake dessert topped with cranberry jam is a personal favorite of Walter’s. But if you’re aching for Apple Strudel, no worries. You can get that as well with a decadent vanilla sauce.

Interior Decor at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

The restaurant also offers indoor seating in a cozy setting that allows for an intimate meal and drink among friends and family. Even if you can’t see the Sassolungo Group from inside, the charming Alpine decor throughout will leave no doubt you’re feasting amid the Dolomites.

How to Visit Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

The easiest way to visit Malga Schgaguler Schwaige is by taking the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Alpe di Siusi from Ortisei. From the cable car station, it is a 10-minute hike to the restaurant.

If you choose to hike across Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch instead, follow trail no. 30 and then hop on trail no. 9. You will spot Malga Schgaguler Schwaige perched on a hillside above the Sporthotel Sonne.

Drinking Beer at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige — Good food is always accompanied by good cheer.

Like all mountain huts in South Tyrol, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige operates on a seasonal basis. For the summer season, the restaurant typically resumes operation at the end of May after shutting down when the ski season is over in mid-April.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige remains open through the summer and fall until the first week of November. The restaurant then closes until early December when it reopens for an Italian holiday. After Christmas and New Years, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige continues serving snow lovers through the winter months and the first part of spring.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 104 — Little Max steals the scene in this shot!

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 105

While we have only enjoyed lunches at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the restaurant opens at 9 a.m. allowing you to savor a delicious breakfast of freshly plucked farm eggs. Could there be any better way to start a day?

Walter and his team close each day at 5 p.m. Undoubtedly, you may find it hard to pull yourself away from the spectacular views and food. But as the song Closing Time goes, “you don’t have to go home but you can’t stay here.”

Follow Malga Schgaguler Schwaige on Facebook and Instagram to keep up with the Demetzs!

We would like to give Walter and his family a special thanks for spending time and sharing their story with us. We can’t wait to return!

Experience the Dolomites: 7 Places You Can Virtually Visit

Updated: December 18, 2021

Is this time of self-isolation and social distancing getting to you yet? It is us. That’s why we decided to find out how to visit the Dolomites right now while stuck indoors.

Fortunately, we uncovered a multitude of 360-degree experiences ripe for pretending to be amid the peaks. These immersive panoramas offer stunning views rivaled only by the real thing.

Elevate your mood by diving into this collection of virtual outings in the Dolomites. By the end, you’ll hopefully be feeling what we like to call #mountainstrong.

Gardena Pass

Gardena Pass (also known as Grödnerjoch and Passo Gardena) is a high mountain pass bridging Val Gardena and Val Badia. The number of jaw-dropping views of the Dolomites along the pass is astounding as it is virtually in the heart of the range.

Experience the Dolomites: 7 Places You Can Virtually Visit 107

The best part? Everyone can enjoy the scenery. Gardena Pass can be traversed by foot, bike or car.

➤ Sunset Over Gardena Pass: http://www.360cities.net/image/sunset-over-gardena-pass-dolomites-italy#-33.68,2.40,70.0

➤ A View from the Summit of Gran Cir: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AB&labels=1

➤ Sella & Sassolungo Group in Early Fall: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AL&labels=1

➤ Sella Group in Summer: https://www.360cities.net/image/panoramic-view-from-gardena-pass-south-tyrol-italy-1

Tre Cime di Lavaredo

The rugged peaks of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (also known as Drei Zinnen and Three Peaks of Lavaredo) need little introduction to mountain lovers. This mighty trio’s thundering presence makes them the symbolic face of the Dolomites.

➤ The Three Peaks in the Late Afternoon Sun: https://goo.gl/maps/xKbpDbyD9pngpF529

➤ Zoom in From the Sky: http://www.topviewtrail.com/sassodisesto/trecime.html

➤ A View from a Summit of Tre Cime di Lavaredo: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2012_HK&labels=1

Lago di Carezza

Lago di Carezza (also known as Karesee) is another striking body of water in the Dolomites of South Tyrol. Although smaller than Lago di Braies its emerald shimmer is even more magical as it appears to transform before the eyes.

In October 2018, a violent wind storm tore through the region destroying thousands of acres of forestland around the lake. The following 360-degree panoramas will give you a sense of the devastation.

➤ An Aerial VIew of Lago di Carezza Before the Storm: https://goo.gl/maps/PqrkDNS2zhbcfa91A

➤ An Aerial VIew of Lago di Carezza After the Storm: https://goo.gl/maps/yievBYEfL2CVvhSK7

➤ Lago di Carezza from the Shoreline: http://www.360cities.net/image/karersee#275.24,1.95,70.0

According to forestry experts, it will take 120 to 150 years for the forest to return to its previous form.

Val di Funes

The majestic Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss) is an unspoilt valley home to the northern faces of the saw-toothed Odle (Geisler) peaks. The contrast between its sleepy rolling meadows and the serrated stone spires of the Dolomites defines dramatic mountain scenery.

➤ The Odle Peaks Under the Spell of Alpenglow: http://www.360cities.net/image/glatschalm-villnoess#344.74,-6.68,70.0

➤ Virtually Trek the Adolf Munkel Trail: https://goo.gl/maps/RUq7Mo6S4Znw21aa7

➤ Visit the Church of St. Johann: https://goo.gl/maps/i7Vcg1QNwQjZW6618

Seceda

Seceda Mountain is at once a jaw-dropping and mystifying construct of nature. Its speary crags careen skyward like gnarled fingers grasping for life. Seeing them up close for the first time can be equally awe-inspiring and jarring — especially when a mist of clouds creeps over their tips.

➤ Seceda in Spring: https://goo.gl/maps/odv8KG7AQqCn7k6E8

➤ Seceda in Winter: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2013_B6&labels=1

Lago di Braies

One never tires staring deep into the emerald waters of Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee). The most popular lake in the Dolomites, Lago di Braies enthralls in all seasons. A circular trail wraps around its shores allowing hikers to find their mountain-lake backdrop. And if that doesn’t work they can row to the middle of the lake to take it all in at once.

➤ From the Shores of Lago di Braies: http://www.360cities.net/image/lago-di-braies#-23.62,-7.29,70.0

➤ An Aerial View of Lago di Braies: https://goo.gl/maps/CYok9qKAuUyVJkmV9

➤ A View From a Boat: https://goo.gl/maps/UPkcJT2nqeB5ENJ38

➤ Lago di Braies in Winter: https://goo.gl/maps/6Lm4ftQiih8HGXps8

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm

Alpe di Siusi (also known as a Seiser Alm) is sprawling Alpine pastureland that tumbles into several iconic mountains of the Dolomites. Its gentle hills and abundance of traditional mountainside taverns make it one of the best places in South Tyrol to immerse yourself in mountain scenery and culture by foot or bike.

➤ Alpe di Siusi in Summer: https://goo.gl/maps/qaZoWNLvnEeM1jB27

➤ A View from the Summit of Schlern Mountain: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AE&labels=1

➤ A View of Schlern & the St. Valentin Chapel: http://www.360cities.net/image/st-valentin-oberhalb-von-seis?proj=panini_projection#0.57,-5.18,110.0

Dream Now. Visit When You Can

At the time of this writing, there is still too much uncertainty as to how soon any of us can return to the Dolomites. But no matter if it’s later this year or next, do your soul some good by dreaming and planning your escape to South Tyrol. The hard-working people of the region are counting on it.

In addition to virtually visiting the Dolomites through the above links, consider also flipping your laptop shut and reading a book about the region. Check out our recommended South Tyrol-related books for some ideas. And if you are itching to do some serious trip planning, start mapping out where you want to go by reading about the top hikes in the Dolomites.

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Virtually experience the Dolomites by diving into stunning 360-degree panoramas!

Discover the Best Hikes in the Dolomites

Updated: December 18, 2021

Looking for the best hikes in the Dolomites? Our hiker-inspired list will help you confidently plan your adventure-filled holidays in the Dolomites.

WE KNOW HOW hard it is to plan a trip to the Dolomites when every mountain and valley seems like a must-see. Especially if you only have 2-3 days to visit.

With 26 majestic ranges emblazoned by more than 3,600 trails, it’s easy to quickly become overwhelmed by the hiking possibilities. To help you, we went beyond our own experiences and surveyed the web analyzing the ratings and reviews of Dolomite hikes featured on the world’s leading travel sites.

The result? An in-depth overview of the top hikes in the Dolomites based on the experience of thousands of hikers — not just our opinion. In addition, we have also included helpful tips for creating a Dolomites itinerary that ensures your time in Italy is even more amazing.

⇒ Download step-by-step guides to hiking in the Dolomites

#1 Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen)

Located in the Tre Cime Natural Park in the Sexten Dolomites of South Tyrol, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (also known as Drei Zinnen and Three Peaks of Lavaredo) are the most famous trio of stone giants in the Dolomites. Their staggering immensity is hard to put into words. But to give you a striking perspective notice the tiny specks of hikers approaching the Three Peaks in the above photo. Such a sight makes it easy to understand why Tre Cime di Lavaredo tops the list of best hikes in the Dolomites.

The spear-like peaks, Cima Piccola, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest, pierce the sky at 9,373, 9,839 and 9,754 feet respectively. If they do not make your heart race upon first sight, check your pulse.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Monument — The Angel of the Fallen is a monument honoring the soldiers who fought among the peaks during WWI.

A mostly level hiking trail loops around the Three Peaks making these three amigos of the Dolomites incredibly popular with hikers of all ages and experience levels. The circuit hike takes roughly four hours beginning from the parking lot near the Rifugio Auronzo mountain hut. Our Tre Cime hiking guide gives you step-by-step directions to meeting these giants of the mountain world up close.

In addition to admiring the towering monoliths up close, you will also encounter military remnants from World War I including tunnels and trenches as the Front tore directly through here. For more about the war’s impact, see our award-winning story: Forest of the Fallen.

#2 Lago di Braies

It’s no surprise one of the most beautiful lakes in the world is among the best places in the Dolomites. A jewel of Italy, Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee, Lake Braies and Lake Prags) attracts throngs of visitors from around the world each year.

Regardless of the season, the lake set against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains is a sight to behold. But to see it sparkle like a rare emerald, plan to visit between May and November.

Boats on Lago di Braies — When you’re done hiking around Lago di Braies, consider rowing about the lake in a vintage wooden boat.

A hiking trail encircles the lake beginning from Hotel Braies. It is an easy 2-hour hike that does not require any skill or feat of fitness.

But the trek may require you to dodge other hikers as this gem becomes incredibly busy. See our complete guide to hiking Lake Braies for details on how to enjoy the “Emerald of Italy” without the crowds.

#3 Seceda

Our personal favorite on this list, Seceda mountain (also known as the Seceda Ridgeline or Fermeda Towers) is an awe-inspiring spectacle soaring high above Val Gardena in the Puez-Odle Nature Park. Its ridgeline runs peacefully above an Alpine prairie before the saw-toothed peaks known as the Fermeda Towers cleave the heavens.

Seeing these serrated crags up close is a must for mountain lovers. In addition, the views of other famous South Tyrolean peaks from the seat of Seceda is astounding.

Dolomites in Sudtirol — One of the best hikes in the Dolomites is without a doubt along the Seceda ridgeline.

A series of lifts make reaching Seceda rather easy. The level of difficulty a hiker encounters depends on the route they choose to take down the mountain. Plan on 4-6 hours if you choose to wander from Seceda to the Twin Peaks of Pieralongia and beyond. You can find all the details and options in our hiking Seceda guide.

#4 Alpe di Siusi

Hiking around Schlern in the Dolomites — Hiking Alpe di Sisui brings you face-to-face with many symbolic mountains of the Dolomites such as Schlern.

We adore hiking Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm). As Europe’s highest Alpine pasture, it unfurls jaw-dropping mountain vistas in the most dramatic way. The pasture land is a plateau rimmed by the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites – Schlern, Sassolungo and the Rosengarten.

Thanks to its many gently rolling hills, Alpe di Siusi is a walker’s paradise. Several hiking trails criss-cross the plateau making it one of the more popular day hikes in the Dolomites.

In addition, a network of mountain huts allows you to savor some of the best homemade meals in the region. Our favorite is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. This family-owned gem (pictured above) offers the best views of the Sassolungo Group. Plus, all of their food comes directly from their own farm.

Plan to spend a minimum of a half-day hiking. Our Alpe di Siusi hiking guide gives you step-by-step directions to this Alpine wonderland.

#5 Lago di Carezza

Another lake not to miss in the Dolomites is Lago di Carezza (also known as Karesee, Karer Lake or Lake Carezza). Even more magical than Lago di Braies (if you believe the legends), Lake Carezza shimmers beneath the Latemar mountain range of the Dolomites in Val d’ Ega. Less than 30 minutes from the charming city of Bolzano, it is a convenient hiking destination for anyone staying in the heart of South Tyrol.

Lago di Carezza is often referred to as the Fairytale Lake of the Dolomites. Its ever-changing rainbow of emerald colors inspired legends long ago of a wizard and nymph. You can attempt to spot both myths by hiking an evergreen-forested loop around the lake. It is only a 30-minute hike, but with plenty of opportunities to explore, a visit can easily turn into 2+ hours.

Hiking Lago di Carezza in winter — Lago di Carezza transforms into a postcard-perfect winter wonderland during the Christmas season.

If you are in South Tyrol during the holidays, be sure to visit the Lago di Carezza Christmas Market as well. Set along the shoreline, the market brims with the cozy tidings of the season. And somehow the frozen lake still dances with a theater of icy hues.

While Lago di Braies tends to get much of the attention in the Dolomites, we prefer the pure stillness of Lago di Carezza and the Latemar mountains. If you like tranquil moments while hiking, you will find them here.

#6 Sassolungo & Sassopiatto

Sassolungo and Sassopiatto (also known as Langkofel and Plattkofel) are jagged behemoths making up the Langkofel group of the Dolomites. The sight of them from a distance is astounding. Up close it is jarring. In a way that enlivens all your senses.

From traversing the surreal “City of Stone” to taking in the undulating expanse of Alpe di Siusi from their mountainsides, hiking amid these imposing peaks should rank higher on this list in our opinion. For us, these giants encapsulate what we love about the Dolomites more than any other mountains in the world — the ability to experience their entirety from so many different vantage points.

Dog in the Dolomites — The Sassolungo-Sassiopattio hike also offers sweeping views of the Sella Group as well as this beautiful lady…if you’re lucky!

A lengthy hiking trail of varying difficulty runs around Sassolungo and Sassopiatto. Trekking the Sassolungo circuit will take your breath away in more ways than one.

Fortunately, a handful of mountain huts dot the route allowing you ample opportunities to rest and recharge with food and drink. We suggest beginning the hike at the Passo Sella parking lot in Selva (Wolkenstein). The loop takes 7-8 hours to complete, but you do not have to trek the full circuit to experience this heavenly group of the Dolomites. See our guide to Sassolungo for a couple of fascinating hiking routes.

#7 Odle Group of Val di Funes

While researching hikes in the Dolomites, chances are you have come across the picturesque scene of the Church of St. Maddalena or the Chapel of St. Johann against the roaring backdrop of the Odle Group (also known as Geisler Group). These historic churches reside in Val di Funes (Villnöss) and are emblematic sights of South Tyrol.

In addition to visiting Val di Funes for such saintly views, you can embark on a hike that carries you directly to the foot of the mighty Odle peaks. The Adolf Munkel Trail is often touted as the most beautiful of the Dolomites’ hiking trails. Hard to argue with the claim once you see its storybook setting.

Relaxing in the Dolomites — Few mountain vistas can top the Odle Group from Val di Funes.

This 3 to 4-hour hike runs through sleepy pastureland and old-growth forests allowing you to experience the wide variety of landscapes and nature adorning the Dolomites. The trail is not difficult to traverse making it a popular choice for families.

You’ll find the trailhead for the Adolf Munkel Trail at the Zanser Alm parking lot, which is about 15-minutes past the tiny Chapel of St. Johann. See our guide to visiting Val di Funes for more about this enchanting valley.

#8 The Vajolet Towers

The Rosengarten Group (also known as Catinaccio) of the Dolomites seems to spike endlessly across the horizon allowing you to admire its peaks and spires from many points in South Tyrol including Bolzano. The range is at its most stunning during sunset when afire with a red glow.

This natural phenomenon known as alpenglow or “Enrosadira”, as it is beautifully referred to in Ladin (Ladin is an ancient language still spoken in the Dolomites), inspired a legend about a dwarf king and his rose garden hence the mountain group’s name. But if you really want to appreciate the grandeur of the Rosengarten, consider hiking to the group’s most famous summits: the Vajolet Towers (also known as Torri del Vajolet and the Violet Towers).

Another famous trio of the Dolomites, the Vajolet Towers thunder skyward in Val di Tiers — a valley of pure wild-hearted beauty. The three dolomitic towers, Delago, Stabeler and Winkler (named after the first climbers to conquer their summits), reign over a surreal, barren landscape. So barren in fact, you may even wonder if you wandered through a portal to Mars on the 5-7 hour circuit.

The **Rifugio Vajolet mountain hut** is ideally located to give your legs a rest and your eyes a stunning scene before continuing on to the Vajolet Towers.

By all accounts, this is the most difficult hike on this list, which is why this corner of the Dolomites is less well known thus fewer tourists. The trek begins by taking a lift up from the Laurin Lift station in the village of Welschnofen (also known as Nova Levante) to the Rifugio Fronza (Rosengarten Hut).

How to Experience the Dolomites

The above hiking destinations are the most popular in the Dolomites for a reason. However, neither us nor anyone else can define what the best hikes in the Dolomites are for you. You have to find that out on your own.

When planning your hiking outings do not let the “fear of missing out” on a trail or sight muddle your time in the Dolomites. Cramming in destinations is a mistake. South Tyrol is a land of slow travel.

Pasta in the Italian Dolomites — Sometimes the best hike in the Dolomites is from one mountain hut to the next!

Beyond enjoying the breathtaking scenery, take the time to experience the enthralling culture of the region from its savory cuisine to its riveting history to its heart-warming traditions such as woodcarving.

If you’re like us, you may just find the best hike is each and every outing no matter where you roam.

What to Know Before Hiking in the Dolomites

Before planning your trip and embarking on hikes in the Dolomites you should know the following:

As the “best” in the Dolomites, these hiking destinations can at times be bustling with other hikers especially during the peak season of summer. Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. However, be sure to check the lift station operating schedules for any hikes requiring a cable car ride.
Weather can be unpredictable and change quickly in the Dolomites. Make sure you sport proper clothing, footwear and gear before venturing into the mountains.
Understand how to read the trail signs. Review the trail sign guide in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library to become comfortable with their instructions.
Consider using South Tyrol’s affordable public transportation system to hike the Dolomites in the most environmentally-friendly way possible. Buses regularly bring hikers to these destinations.
If you plan to rent a car during your trip, see our Driving in Italy guide to understand what is legally required and the rules of the road.
While you may encounter English-speaking staff at the restaurants and resorts, it’s helpful and respectful to know some basic German or Italian. You can find guides to both languages in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library mentioned above.

Dolomites Hiking Guidebook — A **Dolomites hiking guide book** is invaluable in finding the hidden gems of the Dolomites.

Creating Your Dolomites Itinerary

For every Dolomites itinerary, we recommend selecting one hiking destination per day. Each region of the Dolomites offers much more to see than these hiking routes.

In fact, consider purchasing the hiking guide: Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. It covers step-by-step directions to lesser-known trails with equally grand scenery. This book is especially helpful if you are keen on avoiding crowds while hiking.

But if you’re set on embarking on as many of these outings as possible, here are the ones you can plan together as day hikes in the Dolomites:

Tre Cime di Lavaredo & Lago di Braies – These two destinations are less than an hour apart by car.
Lago di Carezza & Vajolet Towers – Since the hiking trail at Lago di Carezza is quite short you can also trek to the Vajolet Towers on the same day. The lift station is just 10 minutes from the lake.
Seceda & Alpe di Siusi – The lifts to each destination are opposite of each other in the village of Ortisei. If you time the lifts wisely you can see the iconic sights of both.

Want help crafting your itinerary? Take advantage of our expertise with our South Tyrol Itinerary Review Service.

Where to Stay in the Dolomites

View of Sassolungo Mountain — A view to a thrill! **Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof** in Ortisei offers a spellbinding panorama of Sassolungo and Sassopiatto.

To get the most out of your holidays in the Dolomites, consider staying near the region where you will be hiking the most. From luxury resorts to mountain huts to farm stays for as little as 30-50 € per night, you will have no problem finding accommodations that fit your budget and desires. Here are recommendations for each area:

If you would like a 5-star experience while in the Dolomites, check out our detailed reviews of Romantik Hotel Turm and Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort. Both resorts will dazzle with a host of Alpine wellness amenities and treatments that perfectly complement a long day of hiking.

Additional Tips for Your Holidays in the Dolomites

No doubt the Dolomites are a tremendous draw for South Tyrol. But the Dolomites make up only part of the region’s mountain story.

In addition to your hikes in the Dolomites, consider hiking in the Italian Alps to the west where you will encounter a wonderous collision of Mediterranean and Alpine mountainscapes. See our guide to visiting South Tyrol for more about what awaits you in Italy’s best-kept secret!

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Hiking Alpe di Siusi: The Ultimate Guide to Seiser Alm

Updated: December 19, 2021

Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) is one of the most treasured destinations in the Dolomites. Here’s everything you need to enjoy the breathtaking sights of this must-hike meadowland.

AWE-INSPIRING. BREATHTAKING. MAJESTIC. All words you may have heard describing Alpe di Siusi. But the one you really need to know before visiting is “vast.” Alpe di Siusi is Europe’s largest mountain plateau. Picture an area even bigger than Manhattan soaring thousands of feet above the valley floor.

With 270+ miles (440+ km) of trails and rustic mountain taverns throughout Alpe di Siusi, you could spend an entire holiday in South Tyrol exploring the area. We put together this hiking guide to make it easier to experience the alp.

In this post, you will discover how to intimately experience the rollicking scenery of Alpe di Siusi including the Sassolungo (Langkofel), Sassopiato (Plattkofel) and Schlern (Sciliar) massifs in all their glory. We detail three hiking options as well as share a bounty of tips such as where to eat and additional sights to consider during your Alpe di Siusi adventure.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our Alpe di Siusi hiking guide

Alpe di Siusi | Seiser Alm Overview

Alpe di Siusi is a soul-stirring dreamland for outdoor enthusiasts of any age. Anchored by thundering mountains all around, its trails gently wind in between peaceful farms, ancient evergreen forests and billowy meadows. You can be lost in the unbridled brawn of Sassolungo one moment and the effortless beauty of a wildflower the next.

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The number of peaks you can admire on Alpe di Siusi may only be rivaled by hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo. But unlike, Tre Cime, you can comfortably enjoy these mountains in any season.

Hiking Time: Multiple days if you wish. The round-trip hikes we highlight will take 4-5 hours
Top Sights: Schlern Mountain, Sassolungo Group, Rosengarten Group, Seceda Ridgeline, Sella Group
Hiking Difficulty: Easy as a breeze
Size of Alpe di Sisui: 34 sq. miles (56 sq. km)
Number of Trails Available: 60+
Altitude: 5,200 to 9,700+ ft ( 1,600 to 2,950+ m). The meadowland lies at 5,200+ ft.
Attitude: Chill

The hikes we share in this guide begin at different locations but follow the same paths. No matter where you choose to begin, the route returns to your starting point — providing dramatically contrasting views every step of the way. You can expect to hike approximately a total of 6-7 miles (10-11 km).

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Where is Alpe di Siusi | Seiser Alm

Before we jump into specifics on this hike, let us paint a clear picture of where Alpe di Siusi is located. The name of the plateau can cause some confusion for travelers as it also denotes a broader holiday region in the Dolomites.

The Alpe di Siusi holiday region includes the plateau as well as villages and valleys lying far below to its north and west. Also often associated with the plateau is the holiday region of Val Gardena, which runs more to its east.

As we show below, both holiday regions serve as excellent launching points for hiking Alpe di Siusi. Whether beginning your hike from Val Gardena or Alpe di Siusi, the hiking route we cover is the same. The only difference being your starting and endpoint.

By the way, you do not need to base yourself in either holiday region to enjoy Alpe di Siusi while visiting South Tyrol. You can be on the plateau in only 40-60 minutes by car from Bolzano, Brixen or Merano.

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #1

Mont Seuc Cable Car — The Mont Sëuc Cable Car zips you to the top of the plateau in 10 minutes.

The first hiking option we cover involves setting out from Ortisei (St. Ulrich) in Val Gardena. From the heart of Ortisei, you will take the Mont Sëuc Cable Car (Mont Sëuc means Alpe di Siusi in Ladin). In a matter of minutes, you will be on top of the plateau. From here, you will embark across the plateau to the tiny village of Compatsch (Compaccio).

After departing the cable car station any doubts you may have had about hiking a “pasture” vanish. Few sights anywhere can rival the sky-bound beauty of the Sassolungo Group unfolding before your eyes.

Using the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Reach Alpe di Siusi

Here are the step-by-step directions to take the Mont Sëuc lift:

If arriving in Ortisei by car, you have a couple of parking options to consider. You can park in the underground garage at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station or at the underground “Garage Central” parking lot in the center of Ortisei. From Garage Central it is just a 5-minute walk through town and over a foot/bike bridge to the station. Both parking areas are nicely located if you intend to also explore Ortisei.
Once at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, purchase a round trip ticket. The cost for 2021 is € 21,90 per person.
To reach the cable car boarding area, insert the ticket into the turnstile ticket slot. Then wait for a station staff member to direct you to board an available cable car. Sit back and soak in the views on the way up. To the east, the Seceda massif and alp will gradually reveal itself.

Hiking from Mont Sëuc

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Begin your hike by heading left on trail no. 9 towards the Sassolungo Group. The trail will descend through stands of pines until opening into the rolling meadowland.

On your left, you will pass the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the first of many mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi. “Schwaige” “Baita” and “Rifugio” are all used to denote mountain hut. These relaxing Alpine refuges have tended to travelers since the Middle Ages.

When you approach a fork in the trail stay on trail no. 9 to the left which will bring you past the Sporthotel Sonne. Follow trail no. 9 for a good distance enjoying the rugged faces of the Sassolungo Group staring down on you. Eventually, you will come to Hartlweg which intersects the trail. Take a right onto Hartlweg.

Hiking Alpe di Siusi: The Ultimate Guide to Seiser Alm 111 — You can find South Tyrol’s famous Haflinger horses grazing all over Alpe di Siusi.

When Hartlweg runs into trail no. 6B take a right to visit Malga Sanon if you are ready for a refreshment or a bite to eat. If not, take a left onto 6B.

Trail no. 6B will merge into trail no. 9 for a short distance. You will come to an option to take trail no. 3 to the right, but continue on 9 until you come to the second intersection for trail no. 3. Then take a right onto 3 towards Compatsch.

Stay on trail no. 3 until it ends at trail no. 30, which is also known as the Hans & Paula Steger Weg. Named after two South Tyrolean climbing and skiing legends who once called the pasture home.

Take a right onto trail no. 30 and follow it for roughly another 20 minutes until reaching Compatsch. The Sciliar mountain from this stretch is at its most stunning.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige on the Alpe di Siusi — Mountain huts like **Malga Schgaguler Schwaige** invite weary legs to rest with a hearty South Tyrolean meal and view you will not forget.

Once at the village, you can give your legs a rest at the restaurant in the Nordic Ski Center. It offers a more contemporary setting than the rustic mountain huts you encounter, but the menu serves up delicious pasta if that suits your mid-hike appetite.

After you’re done visiting Compatsch, set out to return to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station via the same route. You’ll pass by Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again. From their terrace, you can devour a delicious meal and your final views of Sassolungo before zipping back down to Ortisei on the cable car.

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Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #2

Hiking Alpe di Siusi: The Ultimate Guide to Seiser Alm 112

If you are interested in spending most of your time in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region, embarking on a hike of Alpe di Siusi itself from Compatsch is an excellent option to choose. Some of South Tyrol’s most alluring villages, churches and castles reside in this holiday region.

To start out from Compatsch, drive 7 miles above the village of Seis. Keep in mind the following:

The road leading towards Alpe di Siusi is closed to incoming traffic from 9 am to 5 pm so be sure to arrive before 9 am. The road is not closed to outgoing traffic so you can leave at any time.
Parking is available on the left of the road in Compatsch near the Alpe di Siusi visitor center in a lot called P2. The cost to park is €19,00. You can avoid paying the parking fee by parking in one of the roadside lots you’ll encounter on the drive up, but then, of course, you’ll extend your hike uphill.
If you happen to arrive after 9 am when the road is closed, all is not lost. Take the Alpe di Siusi Aerial Cableway up from the village of Seis. The cable car cost is € 19,00 per person so it pays to arrive before 9 am and park.

Hiking from Compatsch

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This hiking option follows the same route as above except instead of hiking to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, the mid-point for your hike will be the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige before heading back to Compatsch.

You can certainly hike up to the cable car station and enjoy a refreshment and meal there if you wish in their restaurant. But our preference is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. Nothing beats their food and views in our opinion.

Here’s the hiking route you will follow from Compatsch. From the parking lot, you will pick up trail no. 30 (Hans & Paula Steger Weg).

Hiking Alpe di Siusi: The Ultimate Guide to Seiser Alm 114

Follow trail no. 30 until it intersects with trail no. 3 where you will take a left towards Saltria. Trail no. 3 will eventually merge into trail no. 9 where you will have the option to go left or right. Be sure to follow trail no. 9 to the left.

Stay on trail no. 9 and then take a right onto trail no. 6B. This trail will slowly curve to the east until coming to Hartlweg. Like above, you can stay on 6B to take a break at the Malga Sanon if you wish or take a right to continue trekking across Alpe di Siusi.

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Hartlweg will lead you to trail no. 9 where you will take a left. Follow trail no. 9 all the way to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

After you have enjoyed a hearty meal and glass of South Tyrolean wine or beer, set out for the return hike to Compatsch. It’s worth pointing out that you do not have to initially take trail no. 9 back if you don’t wish. Take a glance at your map and you will see other trails that eventually bring you to trail no. 30 into Compatsch.

Bonus Hiking Option: Let Curiosity be Your Guide

Hiking Alpe di Siusi: The Ultimate Guide to Seiser Alm 116 — One of our favorite aspects of Alpe di Siusi is that the scenery is always changing as the clouds and sun move across the sky.

Reaching the plateau and simply wandering trails as your heart sees fit is an enticing option for free-spirited souls. Many trails are accessible to all and marked as such that you can roam without ever getting lost.

Find a trail that loops if you’re set on hiking Alpe di Siusi without seeing the same sight twice. Just be sure to bring a map from the cable car station so you can estimate how long it will take to reach any given point that interests you.

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When to Hike Alpe di Siusi | Seiser Alm

Alpe di Siusi is a year-round destination. Our favorite time to visit is spring, fall and winter.

Summer is dazzling of course but like all destinations in the Dolomites you will have to contend with crowds. That said if you wish to experience Alpe di Siusi when the meadows are in full bloom with wildflowers, you should time your visit from mid-June to mid-July.

If you want to see cows lazily roaming the pastures, visit the plateau beginning in mid-July. The cattle typically are driven up in early July and driven back down by mid-September to early October when the food supply has dwindled.

If you like the idea of enjoying the meadowland with a blanket of snow, plan on a visit from November through April. But keep in mind, the mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi are not open year-round. Be sure to review the posted signs at the main trailheads to see which huts will be open prior to beginning your hike.

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Where to Stay in Alpe di Siusi | Seiser Alm

We recommend staying in the Val Gardena region or the Alpe di Siusi region for a hiking outing on the pasture. Our personal preference is Alpe di Siusi. Staying here places us near other favorite hikes such as the Oachner Höfeweg.

This stunning hiking trail should not be missed. It leads through rolling farmsteads flush with vineyards, orchards and chestnut-riddled forests beneath the peaks of the Dolomites.

For a resort experience unlike any other, consider the Romantik Hotel Turm. This unique retreat immerses you in beautiful history and art from as far back as the 13th century. You will also be dazzled by the hotel’s sumptuous cuisine and wellness area that guarantees soul-mending relaxation.

Romantik Hotel Turm is nestled in the medieval village of Völs, which sits in the shadow Schlern allowing access to Alpe di Siusi in a matter of minutes. Learn more in our in-depth review.

Additional Tips & Considerations

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Instead of hiking consider booking a romantic carriage or sleigh ride across the Alp.
Make plans to explore Ortisei and the fascinating tradition of woodcarving in Val Gardena before or after hiking Alpe di Siusi.
Alpe di Siusi is home to more than 800 different species of wildflowers. If you’re a plant enthusiast you will have a field day here…no pun intended. Get help identifying flowers with the Dolomites: King Laurin’s Garden (Plant Hunters Series) book. Note: For some reason Amazon charges an astonomical amount for this book, but click on the “Used” options to find a copy for under $15.
The Parish Church of St. Ulrich in Ortisei is well worth a visit as well. Built in the late 1700s, the church’s red bulbous dome is easy to spot making it a beacon for history and architecture lovers. Its interior is among the most gorgeous we have ever seen. Precious frescoes, oil paintings and woodcarvings adorn every inch.
The Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm (the lift operates until 6 pm from mid-June to mid-October). The station begins operating in mid-May after ski season and closes again in early November before reopening for the ski season typically in December. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
Want to see the sunset on Alpe di Siusi? You’re in luck. Once per week in the summer the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station runs from 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm to allow evening walks and dinner at their restaurant. Review the night schedule to see if the dates align with your trip to South Tyrol.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Val Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways. Note: The Val Gardena card does not provide access to lifts based in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region.
Hiking isn’t the only way to enjoy Alpe di Siusi. If you’re a biking enthusiast, consider renting a mountain bike or e-bike. BAMBY rental is located right next to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station.
Harness the natural energy of Alpe di Siusi to improve your wellbeing. Be sure to explore the wellness products originating from its meadows. Up to 80 different kinds of grass, herbs and flowers can found in just a handful of hay from Alpe di Siusi. Local companies like Trehs create natural cosmetic and wellness products based on the ancient wisdom passed down through the ages from the mountains of South Tyrol.
If you embark on a hike of Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch, don’t miss a visit to the historic St. Valentin Chapel, which sits below the Schlern massif in Seis. Its steepled-beauty has graced the mountain backdrop since 1244.
Like all the regions of the Dolomites, Alpe di Siusi is shrouded in age-old legends. Witches long ago performed rituals on the plateau. You can embark on a spell-binding hike from Castelrotto that takes you to the famous “Witches’ Benches”.
For additional Alpe di Siusi hikes of various themes, lengths and difficulty, check out the official Alpe di Siusi holiday region website.
For recommended hiking gear and clothing to wear while hiking Alpe di Siusi, access the guide in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Before any hike, pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

Have you embarked on your own Alpe di Siusi adventure? If so, let us know in the comments below any additional tips, insights and hikes worth sharing.

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Hiking Alpe di Siusi: The Ultimate Guide to Seiser Alm 138

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites

Updated: December 18, 2021

Val di Funes is a storybook valley deep in the heart of South Tyrol. Here’s your step-by-step guide to the soul-stirring sights of this real-life fairy tale.

IF J.R.R. TOLKIEN were to magically drop you a postcard from Middle Earth there’s a good chance it would come from Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss and Villnösstal). This bewitching land in the Dolomites may very well be nature’s greatest masterpiece — a perfect storm of beauty and brawn.

The valley of Val di Funes unfolds gently through miles upon miles of unspoiled forests and velvety green slopes until abruptly ending beneath the jaw-dropping thundercrack of the Dolomites. When the fangs of the Odle peaks first come into view, it is jarring. Some mountains look like they long to caress the heavens, these look as if they wish to tear it asunder.

In this post, we give you the step-by-step guide to visiting Val di Funes. You’ll discover how to experience the best views and hike from one attraction to the next while taking in all the Alpine enchantment this blessed valley offers.

What to See in Val di Funes

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites 140 — Val di Funes inspires awe at every turn.

Val di Funes teems with attractions worth exploring, but the two most celebrated are the Church of St. Magdalena and the Church of St. Johann. These two storied holy sites are rather small, but leave a mountain-size impression on travelers.

Like the north-facing Odle peaks, they are symbolic of Val di Funes. The much-loved scene of their steeples among the mountains may make them the most photographed churches in South Tyrol.

The itinerary we detail below will take 2-3 hours if covering it primarily by foot. If you do not want to walk that much, you can drive near to either church.

Both can be enjoyed in as little as an hour. However, we recommend planning on at least spending a morning or afternoon exploring the area.

The Church of St. Magdalena

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites 141 — Val di Funes is home to one of most iconic sights in all of Italy: The Church of St. Magdalena against the backdrop of the Dolomites.

The Church of St. Magdalena (Santa Maddalena) beams from a hill in a tiny village of the same name located on the far end of the valley. The church itself sits atop a grassy hill where it is said pagan rituals took place long ago.

The exact date the church was built is not known, but it was first mentioned in historical documents in 1394. According to legend, the church was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene after a mirage of her appeared in a nearby brook. As you may recall, she is one of the most beloved saints as she embodies the power of forgiveness and was the first to see Jesus resurrected.

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites 142 — A Baroque masterpiece. The interior of the Church of St. Magdalena displays precious works of religious art.

Inside, the church design and decor is classically baroque. Ornate gold and marble accents and remarkable paintings flourish from ceiling to floor. Above the altar is a painting of Mary Magdalene followed by a statue of her at the foot of the cross.

Val di Funes is famous for its panoramic scene of the church against the mountainsides, but the views from the church itself are equally breathtaking. Photography enthusiasts will find endless ways to creatively frame the peaks from the church grounds.

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TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Seeing the Church of St. Magdalena up close is certainly a rewarding experience, but admiring it against the backdrop of the Dolomites is a sight you’ll never forget. Here’s how to capture the iconic panorama as shown above

From the Via Geisler roadway into the village of St. Magdalena take a left at the blue sign directing you to the village center. Straight ahead of you will be a public parking lot. We recommend parking here and hiking along the road to the panorama point and church. The road leading directly to the church is closed to automobiles.
Take left onto Bergweg and then a right on Trebich. Note: Street names may not be visible so be sure to follow the signs for the church (Kirche / Chiesa).
Follow Trebich to the left and then Magdalenaweg, which veers to the right. Stay on Magdalena as it winds gradually upward.
You’ll eventually see the church to your right. But instead of taking the right continue straight to reach a higher elevation.
You will then come to a farmstead on the road where you will take a right. Follow the road up to the second bend. Here, you will find a short trail called St. Magdalena Panoramaweg cutting across the slope offering the best views.

Trail Map to St. Magdalena Church

After thoroughly drinking in the views, we suggest visiting the church. It is open daily.

The Church of St. Johann

Only 40 minutes away by foot from the Church of St. Magdalena is the picturesque Church of St. Johann. This little stone church with its famous onion-bulbed steeple is actually more akin to a chapel, but the sight of it is equally stunning. It is also often referred to as St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui or San Giovanni.

The Church of St. Johann came to grace a meadow at the foot of the Odle massif in 1744. A Baroque gem inside and out, the front facade showcases decorative pillars painted on the ends with a depiction of St. John of Nepomuk near the peak of the chapel.

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites 144

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites 145

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites 146 — Since 1744, The Church of St. Johann has charmed travelers visiting Val di Funes.

The life of St. John of Nepomuk is not as well known as St. Mary Magdalene. Considered a martyr, St. John was sentenced to death by drowning in 1393 by King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia. He was gagged and thrown into the Vltava River from the Charles Bridge in Prague.

Within the chapel, a series of paintings on the sides of the altar tells the story of St. John. The altar itself is grandly ornate with bedazzling marble and gold in the classic Baroque style like the Church of St. Magdalena. Curiously, a painting shows St. John holding out his tongue. It is apparently meant to symbolize his defiance of the king, which ultimately led to his torture and murder.

Val di Funes: Your Guide to the Most Enchanting Valley in the Dolomites 147 — Grazing beneath the Dolomites. Cows lazily roam all around St. Johann.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Since the Church of St. Johann sits in the middle of a wide-open field, numerous points will wow you as you meander to its doorstep. Here’s how we recommend visiting the chapel to soak it all in:

From the Church of St. Magdalena walk the path located outside the cemetery downhill towards the village center. Along this path, you will come to one of the most epic wayside shrine scenes in South Tyrol.
The path eventually becomes Kircheweg. Sweeping views of various farmsteads along this route make it a walk to remember.
Follow Kircheweg all the way into the village and then take a left onto Bergweg. Before you cross onto Bergweg pause to enjoy the ripples of a small waterfall on your left.
Stay on Bergweg and keep to the right when you come to a fork. This will lead you to the Via Geisler roadway where you will walk along the side for roughly 10 minutes until reaching a trail crossing a pasture to The Church of St. Johann.
Before venturing to the church, you’ll come across a stand where you can purchase fresh jams, syrups and more from the nearby farm. We always recommend supporting these family-owned farms when you get the chance. There’s nothing better than the regional specialties direct from the farm.
The largest stony spire of the Odle massif rises up beyond the church. It is known as Sass Rigais. This peak taught mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner how to master the climb.

Trail Map to St. Johann Church

The Church of St. Johann is available to visitors, but it is not always open. You can request access by contacting the Ranuihof Manor located on the edge of the church’s meadow.

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When to Visit Val di Funes

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Like Alpe di Siusi, Val di Funes is a destination that can be enjoyed on foot year-round. Seeing its top sights does not require scheduling around lift schedules or avoiding the unpredictability of mountain weather.

As we have noted in many of our articles, our favorite time to visit the Dolomites is in autumn. Fewer crowds, cooler temps, hearty harvest festivals and the brilliant colors of fall make it the ideal season.

If you are planning to visit Val di Funes in the fall, consider timing your trip around Speckfest. This culinary celebration occurs the first weekend of October each year and is held right below the St. Magdalena Church. Discover more about this annual event by checking out our fun-filled afternoon at Speckfest.

How to Reach Val di Funes

Thanks to its relatively central location in South Tyrol, adding a trip to Val di Funes as a part of your itinerary is easy no matter where you base yourself.

Tucked between Val Gardena to the southwest and Val Pusteria to the north, Val di Funes is only 45 minutes from Bolzano and 30 minutes from Brixen.

If you are arriving by car, the valley can be directly accessed from the A22 Autostrade. The exit is just north of Chiusa (Klausen). Reaching St. Magdalena village on the far end of Val di Funes is a pleasant drive. It takes less than 20 minutes once you exit the main highway.

Those using public transportation while in South Tyrol can still easily embark on an adventure in the valley. A bus departs from Chiusa and Brixen multiple times each day. To explore public transportation options, visit the official Val di Funes website.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

Additional Tips for Visiting Val di Funes

Consider taking a break between hikes by having lunch in St. Magdalena. A couple of establishments offering traditional South Tyrolean hospitality with views include Gasthof Fermeda and Waldschenke.
Visit the Puez-Odle Nature Park Visitor Center in the heart of St. Magdalena to discover other attractions and history of the area.
Make a trip to Val di Funes a full-day outing by trekking the Adolf Munkel trail. This 4+ hour hike will bring you up close to the Odle mountain group.
If you want to see Val di Funes alive with Alpine wildflowers the best time to visit is the summer season.
To enjoy the valley with the least number of tourists, we suggest visiting Val di Funes in May or October. Another option is to explore Val di Funes in the winter when it becomes a wonderland for snow lovers.
Like many mountain vistas, sunrise and sunset will give you the most spectacular photo opportunities.
Visit Val di Funes during Speckfest to partake in the annual celebration of South Tyrol’s traditional mountain-smoked ham.
Before arriving in St. Magdalena you’ll pass through the village of San Pietro in the heart of Val di Funes. Consider visiting another remarkable church known as the “Duomo della Valle” (Cathedral in the Valley). Its onion-bulbed steeple soars an impressive 200+ feet.

Have you been to Val di Funes? Let us know in the comments in below if there are any additional tips or sights you would recommend.

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The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites

Updated: December 18, 2021

Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites is a must for every mountain lover. Its staggering spear-like peaks make it one of our favorite hikes. Here’s everything you need to know to enjoy this soaring spectacle.

OF ALL THE EPIC mountain scenery in South Tyrol there is perhaps no more striking sight than the Fermeda Towers of the Dolomites’ Odle mountain range.

The peaks erupting from the Seceda ridgeline roar into the sky like a neolithic firestorm suspended in time. They appear born out of some ancient blaze. Flames once raging, now steeled to stone.

In this post, we show you how to see these flaring Dolomitic wonders. Up close. And in a heart-pounding way that makes for an unforgettable day in South Tyrol. Our step-by-step guide to hiking Seceda brings you to the famous ridge edge and across the plateau to a rustic mountainside tavern. From there we lead you to the teetering Twin Peaks of Pieralongia and finally down the mountain through pasture and forest to another must-see sight in the Dolomites: The Church of St. Jakob.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our step-by-step Seceda hiking guide

Seceda Hiking Overview

Seceda looms 8,200+ feet (2,500 m) above the villages of Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva in Val Gardena. In fact, you will often see the mountain referred to as “Seceda 2500”. It is in the Puez-Odle Nature Park (Naturpark Puez-Geisler) and is one of many peaks comprising the Odle Group (Geislergruppe or Gruppo delle Odle).

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites 151 — The Puez-Odle Nature Park measures 10,000+ hectares and is home to many of South Tyrol’s treasured mountains.

By the way, the name Odle comes from the Ladin language of Val Gardena and translates to “needles” — certainly an appropriate moniker given the mountain chain’s many spires. Seceda, on the other hand, originates from the Latin word “siccus”, which means dry. Again, wholly appropriate as the mountainscape of Seceda can be bone stark depending on the season.

Hiking Time: The trek will take 4-6 hours
Top Sights: Seceda Ridgeline with the Fermeda Towers, Twin Peaks of Pieralongia, Alpe di Cisles Meadow, Church of St. Jakob
Hiking Difficulty: Relatively easy, but if you choose to hike down instead of taking the cable car it can become challenging
Altitude: 8,200+ ft (2500 m)
Attitude: Bad Ass

How to Get to Seceda

Reaching the Seceda ridgeline and plateau can be as easy or hard as you like. The most direct way to ascend to the top of Seceda is from the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola Station in Ortisei, which then connects you to the Furnes-Seceda cable car partway up the mountain. We recommend this for most hikers as it allows more time to explore near the summits.

Here are the Seceda cable car directions:

If arriving at Ortisei by car, you can park right next to the gondola lift station or at the underground Garage Central parking lot in the heart of Ortisei. We recommend parking at the Garage Central if you intend to wander about Ortisei after your hike. The walk to the gondola station is less than 10 minutes. See the map in our downloadable Seceda hiking guide.
At the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola station, you’ll need to purchase a ticket to use the lift. For this specific hike, you will purchase a one-way ticket that allows using both the gondola and the cable car to bring you the Seceda summit. The cost is €23.00. Note: If you are not interested in making the trek down Seceda, purchase a round-trip ticket.
Both the gondola and cable car ride are smooth and peaceful. When the gondola ride ends, walk to the Furnes-Seceda Cable Car station which is a short distance away to hop in the cable car lift, which whisks you to the summit. During the ascent, be sure to consume the ever-expanding panorama. Towards the west, the mountains of Alpe di Siusi will gradually unfold into their full splendor. It takes roughly 15 minutes in total to reach the summit using both lifts.

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Seceda Step-by-Step

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites 152 — Dramatic views of Seceda begin the moment you depart the lift station.

Once you arrive at the Furnes-Seceda summit station, pick your jaw off the cable car floor before stepping out. For the best views of the Fermeda Towers begin hiking Seceda by hopping on trail no. 1 as indicated by the signpost.

This will lead you up an incline that any beginner hiker can handle. Soon you will be at the foot of the impressive Seceda summit cross. Next to it is an iron circular lookout point that helps you identify all the mountains filling the horizon.

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Looking towards Alpe di Siusi more iconic peaks of the Dolomites including the Sella Group, the Sassolungo massif and the Witches’ Mountain (Mt. Schlern) lie on the horizon. From up here, you can even spot the king of South Tyrol mountains, Ortler, which beckons from a height of 13,000 feet more than 80 miles away.

Seceda Ridge Paraglider — Near the Seceda ridge is a stunning lookout point where you can test your knowledge of the Alps.

Just beyond the summit cross, to the east, is an ideal spot to capture some of the most photogenic scenes of the Fermeda Towers. From this vantage point, you can study the cleaved cliffsides. They reveal past ages in countless stratifications that run from foot to summit.

Next, you will continue on the trail towards the towers. The path will now descend slightly. If your heart does not pound faster as the peaks swell before you, that’s a good indication to check your pulse.

Eventually, you will come to a signpost for trail no. 6. Follow this trail to your left, which pulls you up the steep Forcella Pana (Furcela Pana | Pana-Scharte) where you will take in the Fermeda Towers from the edge of the earth. Well, it appears to be anyway. This ascent up the Furcela Pana is a tad grueling. Once at the top take great care to watch your step at all times as this area is rocky and steep.

Once you have thoroughly soaked in the sight walk back down and pick up trail no. 1 again. This will bring you to the Troier Hut — an idyllic place to relax and eat under the guard of the Fermeda Towers.

Seceda Pieralongia Peaks — The Twin Peaks of Pieralongia look like shipwrecks on the Seceda plateau.

Find a table on the patio facing the Sassolungo massif across the wide chasm of pastures, stones and pines. The Troier Hut restaurant serves a variety of delicious South Tyrolean specialties right from their farm to your table. In addition, the hut makes a mean Hugo cocktail — a South Tyrolean original you must try.

If you would like some suggestions on what to order, see our post on must-try foods in South Tyrol.

After you’re done eating, sit back in one of the sun loungers below the patio. Here, let the sweeping view lullaby you into a brief nap before trekking onward.

When you’re rested and ready, take trail no. 2B to see the remarkable Twin Peaks of Pieralongia. Beyond these stone spear tips, you will take trail no. 1 again where you will begin your descent toward St. Jakob’s Church.

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites 153 — A stone gem beneath Seceda, the Fermeda Chapel was built by a local family.

Stay on trail no. 1 until coming to a fork with a signpost pointing to trail no. 2. This trail runs to the left and right. Head to the right towards Ortisei as noted on the signpost. This trail stretches all the way across the meadows of Seceda.

You’ll pass additional huts if you need to take another break or to satisfy your craving for another Hugo. The trail also winds past Fermeda Chapel (Fermeda Kapelle) — a tiny stone chapel that will charm you from a hilltop on your right.

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Hiking the Forest of Mt. Balest

The trail will become steeper as you approach Mt. Pic and Mt. Balest, which are the first mountains above Ortisei before Seceda. You’ll walk up to the opening of a forest where a signpost for trail no. 6A directs you to St. Jakob.

This trail cuts into swaths of evergreens that tower above the rock face cliff side of Mt. Balest. Even though the trail runs through forested slopes, several points allow you to gush over the wide-open Val d’ Anna below as well as capture glimpses of Sassolungo through breaks in the treetops.

It is important to note that trail no. 6A becomes increasingly difficult as it twists and turns over Mt. Balest towards St. Jakob. While we do not consider it an easy hike, it is not dangerous in terms of height and steepness.

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites 154 — A worthy competitor to Seceda, Mt. Sassolungo appears between the trees.

Parts are quite rocky and narrow-pathed however so it’s important to watch your step to prevent injuring a knee or ankle. For those less sure on their feet, we recommend using hiking poles during this part of the trek. That said, we have seen hikers of all ages on this trail so don’t let the increased difficulty level deter you. Just take your time, be prepared and allow enough time before sunset.

When you arrive at the Balest signpost at 1823 meters, follow trail no. 6 towards St. Jakob. From here, you are roughly 30 minutes from the church.

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Reaching the Church of St. Jakob

Once you arrive at the Church of St. Jakob (“San Giacomo” in Italian and “Dlieja da Sacun” in Ladin), the sight of it against the backdrop of Sassolungo will stop you in your tracks. We recommend plopping down on the bench overlooking the church to let its antiquity sink in.

It’s not known exactly when the church was built, but documents first mention it in 1283. For nearly a thousand years it has greeted travelers and you can now count yourself as one of them.

St. Jakob Church in Val Gardena — The Church of St. Jakob is a must-see if making the hike down from the Seceda ridge.

Unfortunately, the church is permanently closed unless you arrive at a time when guided tours are being conducted or during the summer when it is frequently open for visitors during normal hours. However, its cemetery is open year-round allowing you to wander around the small church grounds within the circular outer wall.

A gorgeous wayside shrine greets you at the front of the cemetery. Its haunting appearance speaks to the expert craftsmanship of the woodcarvers of Val Gardena. Also worth studying are the late-Gothic frescoes on the south-facing wall of the church. They showcase remarkable color and detail depicting St. Christopher with Jesus as a child sitting on his shoulder.

Want to learn more about this 12-century marvel of the Dolomites? We dive deep into its history in another article about the Church of St. Jakob.

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Wandering to Ortisei

From St. Jakob Church return to trail no. 6 and follow it toward Ortisei. From this point, you are roughly a half-hour from the village. The remainder of the walk is easy and will take you through more evergreen forests where you’ll stroll past interesting works of art. One, in particular, sums up this hiking adventure quite well.

Visual artist Claudia Comte pays tribute to the natural wonder of Val Gardena with a timber sculpture that aptly spells out “WOOOW”. A word that needs no translation given the views all around. This universal expression of awe came together using 20 spruce trunks each nearly 20 feet high.

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites 155

After returning to Ortisei, we highly recommend taking the time to see more works of art from the talented artisans of Val Gardena. Visit one of the many quaint woodcarving shops and studios dotted in and around the village.

To learn more about this charming centuries-old tradition born in the heart of the Dolomites, read about our behind-the-scenes visit with Deur Sculptures — a local woodcarving family with wood sculptures in some of the most celebrated cathedrals in the world.

Where to Stay to Hike Seceda

During our most recent Seceda hiking outing, we stayed at Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof in Ortisei located just below the Church of St. Jakob. Every square inch of this family-owned hotel radiates heavenly Alpine charm. When we came across it, we had to book a stay.

The balcony view was among the best we have enjoyed while visiting South Tyrol. Each morning we woke up to a wide-open view of the immense Sassolungo massif across the valley.

The hotel offers a gorgeous pool area for unwinding after a tiresome day on the slopes. But best of all, the key lifts for hiking Seceda and other mountains of Val Gardena are just minutes away.

The owner, Andrea Piccolruaz, spoke excellent English and provided us with additional hiking tips while entertaining us with her adventures abroad.

Hiking Seceda Safely

Recently a famous Youtube personality perished while hiking Seceda. He was apparently hiking along the edge of the Forcella Pana, which is the steep ridgeline rising before the Fermeda Towers. If you choose to hike in such places while in the Dolomites, it’s imperative you know your limits as a hiker. Stay on marked trails and please watch your step at all times.

Additional Tips & Considerations for Hiking Seceda

Access an easy-to-follow PDF of our Seceda hike to bring on your trip.
The Ortisei-Furnes gondola and Furnes-Seceda cable car operate from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm. Both open in early June and close mid-October. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways.
If you plan to hike down Seceda, make sure to schedule your hike when you will still have daylight.
Additional ways to reach Seceda include taking the Col Raiser gondola from St. Christina or the Resciesa funicular from Ortisei. Plan on extra time if using either option as they are a less direct route. If you do not like the idea of being elevated in a cable car, the Resciesa funicular runs on tracks so you never leave the ground.
If you want to experience Seceda at sunrise or sunset or are a landscape photographer looking to shoot Seceda at night, we recommend booking an overnight stay at the Fermeda Hut, Almhotel Col Raiser, or Rifugio Firenze. The other option for a sunrise view is to start the day early with a hike up from Ortisei. It also permitted to camp on Seceda in certain areas. If you plan to camp, be sure to pitch your tent away from private property and national parks. Also, pack up your site each morning.
The best time see to Seceda beaming with wildflowers and greenery rivaling Ireland is in July.
An additional breathtaking sight you may want to hike to along this route is the Crujeta summit cross near Mt. Pic off of trail no. 6.
If you plan to hike Seceda in spring or fall, but are not sure about the conditions on the summit, visit the tourist office in Ortisei. Staff will be able to advise you on the conditions and what gear you should have for your hike.
For stunning aerial shots of the peaks, you may want to consider using a drone. This post helps you select a quality drone that fits your budget.
For tips on hiking gear and clothing to wear for hiking Seceda, access the guide in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Be sure to pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

Pack a Dolomites Hiking Guidebook

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites 156

Anyone spending considerable time in the Dolomites should purchase a compact hiking guidebook. They are invaluable for pre-trip planning and for discovering other hiking options if your plans have to change due to mountain weather, unexpected lift closures, etc.

Our favorite book to bring is Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. It includes easy-to-follow maps and covers step-by-step directions to popular destinations such as Seceda as well as lesser-known hikes that are equally spectacular.

The hikes featured in the book vary from under 2 hours to full-day excursions. We find it especially useful for uncovering hidden gems that allow us to avoid crowds while hiking. The Majority of the hikes featured are day-long outings.