Dolomites

The Oachner Höfeweg: A Rambling Foothill Adventure in the Dolomites

The foothills bounding beneath the Dolomites brim with natural beauty and cultural intrigue. Lucky for us, the Oachner Höfeweg Farm Trail circles through the heart of it all.

YOU MIGHT THINK the Dolomites ought to occupy all your time while exploring South Tyrol, but as utterly awe-inspiring as the Pale Mountains are, they reflect only a sliver of the region’s splendor.

To really appreciate the melody of landscapes ravishing South Tyrol, we recommend rambling the foothills of the Dolomites, specifically those rollicking the Alpe di Siusi region. Such a hike intimately immerses you in the rural richness of the land and its people.

In this post, we take you on a crisp autumn journey across the Oachner Höfeweg — also known as the “Farm Trail of Aica di Fié” and “Sentiero dei masi”. As you’ll see, this half-day hike bobs and weaves through prolific pastoral scenery punctuated with mountain-shouldered forests, lushly fruited slopes and centuries-old farmsteads rooted in the stones of Ancient Rome.

Crowned with a Castle

The Oachner Höfeweg is a circular 8-mile hike with multiple trailhead locations. You can be on the trail within a matter of minutes from virtually anywhere in the Völs am Schlern (Fiè allo Sciliar) region.

Since we were lodging at the bliss-inducing Romantik Hotel Turm, we opted to begin the trek at the foot of the Prösels Castle. This 13th-century behemoth thunders atop a hillside less than 10 minutes from the resort.

The trailhead, here, sits next to a parking lot below the castle. While you can choose to hike the path in either direction, we followed the sign pointing west toward St. Kathrein (S. Caterina).

Heading away from the castle, the Oachner Höfeweg cuts through a thicket of trees before ascending into a patch of pastureland peppered with cows, barns and sprawling panoramas of Völs am Schlern.

The forest eventually thinned revealing a picturesque Tyrolean farmhouse perched by hillside vineyard parading the season's gold.

Further off the horizon roars the mighty Schlern mountain. Unfortunately for us, the emblematic stone horn of South Tyrol was hidden beneath a shroud of morning clouds.

South Tyrol Barn — The village of Völs am Schlern can be admired from afar on the first leg of the hike.

From Towering Pines to Prancing Vines

Around 20 minutes into the hike, we wandered into a pine forest carpeted by moss, ferns and other evergreen flora. Deeper in we found a scattering of ruins and a stone structure known as the Wirtskeller. This medieval-aged cellar once preserved the wine, cheese and speck for the nobles of Prösels Castle.

According to a sign posted nearby, cold air circulates year-round in the cellar through “Eislöcher” (ice holes). These holes channel cool air continuously streaming beneath the rock-riddled mountainside. Like a mountain-made refrigerator, the cellar always hovers around 13 °C (55 °F) as a result. In addition to cooling the cellar, the natural phenomena elevates the humidity in the surrounding forest promoting the abundant greenery mantling the trees, boulders and forest floor.

After failing to find any long-forgotten wine bottles stored in the Wirtskeller, we pressed on the Oachner Höfeweg. The forest eventually thinned revealing a picturesque Tyrolean farmhouse perched by a hillside vineyard parading the season’s gold.

We stood next to an old fence adoring the farmstead known as the Rieferhof. Its wooing rustic charm romanced our imagination. We told ourselves if this quaint farm ever went up for sale, we would move heaven and earth to buy it.

The Rieferhof farm charms all who pass by.

Perfumed By Apples

Reluctantly continuing on, we hopped back into the forest. Soon, we bounced downhill beyond the pines into a stand of apple trees.

Since it was harvest season, the trees bore no fruit but between the rows we lustfully eyed bin after bin of newly plucked gems. These plump beauties belonged to the nearby Flungerhof farm.

As we dawdled past the orchard, freshly pressed South Tyrolean apples perfumed the trail. This honeyed fragrance could sweeten even those fated with the most sour mood.

We later discovered Flungerhof cultivates mainly Golden Delicious and Royal Gala apples — among the most aromatic varieties in the world. Owned and operated by a mother and son team, the farm specializes in producing traditional apple cider vinegar, juices and syrups for the South Tyrol market.

this species-rich stretch of the hike made it well known autumn was abloom.

From Flungerhof, the Oachner Höfeweg led us through an underpass of the Tierser Strassee. After a few bends in the trail, we descended through a grove of beeches to a sun-steeped farm known as the Zalterhöfl.

Here, the trail borders this gorgeous property allowing hikers to marvel at the details of its Alpine barn and dwelling. They showcase an assortment of old farming tools and traditional Tyrolean accents that beautify from the foundations to the roofs.

The Zalterhöfl lies right along the Oachner Höfeweg.

A Garden of Groves

Our journey beyond the Zalterhöfl furrowed through a dramatically different kind of woodland where deciduous trees like chestnut, walnut and aspen dominated overhead. Unlike the dark, green pine forest of earlier, this species-rich stretch of the hike made it well known autumn was abloom.

The leaves were afire with color and the ground littered by fallen chestnuts. Every now and then, the forest parted gifting us sweeping views far across the Eisack Valley (Valle Isarco) to grassy slopes holding villages unknown.

Fallen Chestnuts in South Tyrol — Heaps of chestnuts hit the trail in autumn.

We strolled within the forest for quite sometime before trudging up a somewhat steep hill running near a meadow. Deep into the northern sky we spied a steeple planted on the Renon (Ritten) high plateau above Bolzano.

Garnishing the slope of vines was a vegetable garden flush with herbaceous fortune.

Upon summiting the hill, we landed at the Tommelehof farmstead. Romantically ravaged by time yet still well maintained, the buildings on the farm gave us a fascinating peek into the rural life of South Tyroleans today and long ago.

The Tommelehof was first mentioned by the name “Mitterpsenner” in the year 1200. It was presumably at one time the site of an Ancient Roman watchtower with remnants of its stone walls still standing.

Mitterpsenner Farm — The Tommelehof farmstead traces its history back to Ancient Rome.

Today, the Tommelehof is a traditional farm stay. Guests can choose between three holiday apartments located in a nearby rustic building that once was a barn. However, the only guests we encountered were a sleepy pup on the porch and a stray chicken strutting back and forth.

Just beyond the farmstead, we hiked atop a vineyard careening into a shady grove. Garnishing the slope of vines was a vegetable garden flush with herbaceous fortune. The kitchen where these treasures toiled had to be divine.

Vino & the Valley

The next leg of the hike began to curl us southward through more chestnut-laden woodland. Here, we spotted a sign pointing us to Gemoanerhof — another historical farm offering apartments for guests as well as a Buschenschank: a traditional Tyrolean tavern and kitchen.

prackfol sudtiroler vernatsch — Every hike on the Oachner Hofeweg should include a wine tasting at the **Prackfol Wine Farm.** Learn more about this boutique winery in our **post** highlighting our visit.

As we were not hungry yet, we proceeded on the Oachner Höfeweg, which now steered us east toward the heart of Tires Valley. Soon, we came to the high-elevation vineyards of Prackfol — a lovely family-owned wine farm we toured the previous day.

We lingered here soaking in the same views as the day before. The idyllic scene framed by these fruited slopes is the stuff of storybooks. In the distance, like the blunted teeth of an mad man’s saw, teased the pale peaks of the Rosengarten, one of the most beloved sights of the Dolomites.

Past the Prackfol Wine Farm, we marched up a wooded enclave that eventually cleared unveiling pastureland yawning into the valley bottom. Like sleight of hand, the Rosengarten, once piercing clear, was now lost to us on the horizon. In only a matter of minutes, the cloud cover had swelled and the once sunny vale unfolded into a misty gloom.

We welcomed the break from the sun. The steady rise on this stretch of the Oachner Höfeweg seemed to have no end.

Tiers Valley, South Tyrol — Peering deep into Tires Valley.

A Restful Mountain Tavern

After a thirst quenching swig from our water bottles, we continued hiking along an old stone wall that looked as if it once guided Roman legions through this corner of South Tyrol. Below us we spotted a few sheep carelessly nibbling on grass above a berry orchard.

Within 20 minutes we came to Innerperskoler Hof — a farm and Buschenschank first mentioned in 1267. We could not ignore our hunger any longer so we slid into at a table on its terrace facing the Rosengarten.

While waiting for our order of Schlutzkrapfen, Knödel and a Bauerngröstl we explored the farm. A swing set anchored above the farm’s vineyards invited a quick whirl.

Our adventure on the farm trail was so enamoring we returned the next day.

We then took a peek inside a tiny chapel on the farm. An inscription above the doorway indicated it was built in 1736. Inside, an ornate altar depicting St. Florian charmed us into leaving an offering.

The Innerperskoler Hof makes for a mouth-pleasing place to give your feet some rest.

After polishing off our meal and a delicious helping of Apfelstrudel, our feet found the Oachner Höfeweg again. While we longed to finish the trail loop, an afternoon spa appointment at Romantik Hotel Turm prompted us to trek back the way we came.

But we were not through with the Oachner Höfeweg yet. Our adventure on the farm trail was so enamoring we returned the next day to visit the Fronthof for a lunchtime Törggelen experience.

As the largest farmhouse in South Tyrol still fully preserved from the 1300s, this mountain tavern is worthy of its own post. Coming soon!

How to Hike the Oachner Höfeweg

The Oachner Höfeweg is open all year, but autumn is when the trail dazzles the most.

Adding the Oachner Höfeweg to your South Tyrol itinerary makes the most sense if basing yourself in or near the Völs am Schlern area of the Alpe di Siusi region. The trail is open for adventure year round.

As noted earlier, you can hop on and off the Oachner Höfeweg from multiple locations. Our recommendation is to begin from the parking lot situated beneath Prösels Castle. This will allow you to easily add a tour of the castle to your day if you wish.

Another good starting point is the parking lot in the village of St. Kathrein (S. Caterina) near the old church of the same name.

Each trailhead has free public parking.

The Oachner Höfeweg is well marked so you will not have any issue navigating the hike. The signposts will also indicate which Buschenschanks you can expect to be open for dining.

If you intend to complete the entire loop, plan for at least half a day. In our experience, you could make this a full-day outing if you do not want to rush your time enjoying the taverns and wine farms dotted along the trail.

In terms of difficulty, anyone who is reasonably fit can handle traversing the Oachner Höfeweg. There is plenty of opportunity to rest along the way.

Hiking poles are not needed unless you simply like to have them for extra support. As always, we recommend packing water bottles and strapping on a backpack for adding or shedding layers as you ramble on.

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Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

How does a South Tyrolean restaurant boasting one of the most spectacular mountain vistas in the world win your heart? One bite at a time.

NO ONE WOULD fault Malga Schgaguler Schwaige if it rested on its laurels and let its jaw-dropping views do all the wowing. After all, the spellbinding sight of the Sassolungo Group storming over the billowy hills of Europe’s largest Alpine pasture — Alpe di Siusi — is enough to make any hiker forget their hunger.

But sitting back allowing the mountains to do most of the work is not in Walter and Martina Demetz’s character. A husband and wife team operating Malga Schgaguler Schwaige since 2016, they delight guests with sumptuous culinary creations and friendly down-to-earth service that makes you feel right at home.

We first experienced the charm of Malga Schgaguler Schwaige a few years ago on a spring hike across Alpe di Siusi. The dishes we enjoyed that day introduced us to the delectable wonders of homemade Alpine cuisine.

This past fall we had the pleasure of visiting Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again. We sat down with Walter to discover the story behind his cuisine and what it takes to run a remarkable restaurant in the Dolomites.

Where Rural Roots Run Deep

The late Anthony Bourdain once said, “food, culture, people and landscape are all absolutely inseparable”. That sentiment could not ring more true than it does at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

Founded by Walter’s father and mother in 1991, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige offers traditional South Tyrolean dishes and specialties fresh from the family farm. Nearly all the restaurant’s ingredients — from milk and butter to eggs and cheese to speck and beef — are homegrown.

Malga Schgagular Schwaige instills its dishes with an authentic spirit we find increasingly rare in the world today.

Sixty-four acres of pastureland surround Malga Schgaguler Schwaige where 15-20 cows enjoy the famous Alpine hay and herbs of Alpe di Siusi. The cows share their leafy bounty with a motley crew of other farm animals including horses, llamas, donkeys, pigs, chickens, peacocks, ducks, rabbits, sheep and a chill gang of goats that will bring a wide grin to your face when you meet them.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige Farm — Other hikers are not the only souls you’ll encounter on a visit to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

Many of these extended members of Walter and Martina’s family roam freely on the grounds beneath the restaurant entertaining guests with their antics, chirps and chatter. In fact, children can dart around with them in a play area that includes a wooden tractor, playground set, sandbox, foosball table and a tempting trampoline.

By 7 a.m. Walter brings the cows down to the pastureland where they graze the day away until he corrals them back in the early evening.

Walking the farm with Walter, it is immediately evident that his passion for serving delicious dishes begins with a passion for his land and the farm animals he raises. He ensures the animals enjoy a free-range environment where they can thrive as stress-free as possible.

The result? Food that fully reveals robust and fresh flavors as nature intended. By following true farm-to-table tenets and not the latest culinary craze, Malga Schgagular Schwaige instills its dishes with an authentic spirit we find increasingly rare in the world today.

From Farm to Family

Walter Demetz and family — Walter and Martina’s little helpers — Lea and Anna.

Walter, Martina and their three children, Lea, Anna and Max, live on the farm in a home adjoining the restaurant. All support the business albeit the youngsters can only serve up ample amounts of good cheer for now.

From 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Martina and Walter’s mother, Christine, conjures culinary magic in the kitchen while Walter and a staff member, Romina, tackle serving the guests. However, the hard work to make Malga Schgaguler Schwaige operate smoothly day after day begins much earlier.

As Walter shared with us, running a restaurant is much like orchestrating a concert: a mountain of work takes place prior to the show and backstage that the audience never sees. A typical day begins at the crack of dawn with farm work.

Schgugaler Schwaige Kitchen — Family rules the mountain kitchen. Martina, Christine, Walter and the family’s newest addition, Max, welcome guests with infectious smiles.

By 7 a.m. Walter brings the cows down to the pastureland where they graze the day away until he corrals them back in the early evening. The rest of the morning is dedicated to tending to the other farm animals, maintaining their property and prepping the day’s mouthwatering ingredients. In the summer, during hay cutting season, the days begin even earlier usually around 5:30 a.m. with non-stop work until 9:30 p.m.

In the wood-clad menus dotting the tables, you will discover a rich assortment of classic South Tyrolean cuisine to reward tired legs.

Of course, all that tiring work does not come without its rewards. When asked about his favorite season on Alpe di Siusi. Walter responded “every day!”. He noted a day does not go by without taking a moment to admire the breathtaking beauty of the mountains — especially in the early morning and at dusk when he has much of the pastureland to himself.

Taming Hooves & Steel

While free time is luxury when operating a farmhouse restaurant, Walter does find time to train for and race his horse, Buddy, in a traditional South Tyrolean event called the Oswald von Wolkenstein Ride. This annual tournament involves a series of horse rides and challenges that take place at four nearby castles.

In addition to horse riding and chasing his children around, Walter enjoys hitting the slopes and restoring old cars and motorcycles. When riding a horse isn’t possible, he also likes to gallop his Harley Davidson across the Alp.

The mountain hut itself has undergone many renovations since his grandfather built it in 1967. Walter envisions continuing to expand the farm and restaurant.

In the not-to-distant future, he would like to elevate the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige experience further by adding another stable. His hope is to make it a place where guests can also educate themselves about sustainable farming practices on the Alpe di Siusi.

Dining at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

Once you take a seat on the flower-drenched terrace of Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the enticing aromas swirling out of the kitchen eventually peel your eyes away from the mountain scenery. In the wood-clad menus dotting the tables, you will discover a rich assortment of classic South Tyrolean cuisine to reward tired legs.

We suggest beginning with a bowl of Speckknödelsuppe or a cheese and speck platter. Both are divine. These traditional South Tyrolean specialties have been passed down from one generation to the next for centuries.

Diving in you discover the warm chocolate filling of each dumpling.

If you are craving something less hearty you can also opt for a generous plate of Pasta Bolognese. After devouring your starter, consider the Frankfurter Sausage with Polenta or Beef Goulash with Cheese Knödel. Regardless, you will relish the mountain’s heart and soul in every tender bite.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige serves up homemade hearty goodness every mountain and food lover should try.

If you have room for dessert (you absolutely should leave room for dessert), lavish your sweet tooth with Homemade Cream Cheese Dumplings. This sinful treat is like a present. Diving in you discover the warm chocolate filling of each dumpling. It will dazzle your eyes and mouth.

Another after-dinner delight to try is Kaiserschmarrn mit Preiselbeermarmelade. This pancake dessert topped with cranberry jam is a personal favorite of Walter’s. But if you’re aching for Apple Strudel, no worries. You can get that as well with a decadent vanilla sauce.

The restaurant also offers indoor seating in a cozy setting that allows for an intimate meal and drink among friends and family. Even if you can’t see the Sassolungo Group from inside, the charming Alpine decor throughout will leave no doubt you’re feasting amid the Dolomites.

How to Visit Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

The easiest way to visit Malga Schgaguler Schwaige is by taking the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Alpe di Siusi from Ortisei. From the cable car station, it is a 10-minute hike to the restaurant.

If you choose to hike across Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch instead, follow trail no. 30 and then hop on trail no. 9. You will spot Malga Schgaguler Schwaige perched on a hillside above the Sporthotel Sonne.

Drinking Beer at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige — Good food is always accompanied by good cheer.

Like all mountain huts in South Tyrol, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige operates on a seasonal basis. For the summer season, the restaurant typically resumes operation at the end of May after shutting down when the ski season is over in mid-April.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige remains open through the summer and fall until the first week of November. The restaurant then closes until early December when it reopens for an Italian holiday. After Christmas and New Years, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige continues serving snow lovers through the winter months and the first part of spring.

Little Max steals the scene in this shot!

While we have only enjoyed lunches at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the restaurant opens at 9 a.m. allowing you to savor a delicious breakfast of freshly plucked farm eggs. Could there be any better way to start a day?

Walter and his team close each day at 5 p.m. Undoubtedly, you may find it hard to pull yourself away from the spectacular views and food. But as the song Closing Time goes, “you don’t have to go home but you can’t stay here.”

Follow Malga Schgaguler Schwaige on Facebook and Instagram to keep up with the Demetzs!

We would like to give Walter and his family a special thanks for spending time and sharing their story with us. We can’t wait to return!

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Malga Schgaguler Schwaige in South Tyrol, Italy

Experience the Dolomites: 7 Places You Can Virtually Visit

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Is this time of self-isolation and social distancing getting to you yet? It is us. That’s why we decided to find out how to visit the Dolomites right now while stuck indoors.

Fortunately, we uncovered a multitude of 360-degree experiences ripe for pretending to be amid the peaks. These immersive panoramas offer stunning views rivaled only by the real thing.

Elevate your mood by diving into this collection of virtual outings in the Dolomites. By the end, you’ll hopefully be feeling what we like to call #mountainstrong.

Gardena Pass

Gardena Pass (also known as Grödnerjoch and Passo Gardena) is a high mountain pass bridging Val Gardena and Val Badia. The number of jaw-dropping views of the Dolomites along the pass is astounding as it is virtually in the heart of the range.

The best part? Everyone can enjoy the scenery. Gardena Pass can be traversed by foot, bike or car.

➤ Sunset Over Gardena Pass: http://www.360cities.net/image/sunset-over-gardena-pass-dolomites-italy#-33.68,2.40,70.0

➤ A View from the Summit of Gran Cir: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AB&labels=1

➤ Sella & Sassolungo Group in Early Fall: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AL&labels=1

➤ Sella Group in Summer: https://www.360cities.net/image/panoramic-view-from-gardena-pass-south-tyrol-italy-1

Tre Cime di Lavaredo

The rugged peaks of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (also known as Drei Zinnen and Three Peaks of Lavaredo) need little introduction to mountain lovers. This mighty trio’s thundering presence makes them the symbolic face of the Dolomites.

➤ The Three Peaks in the Late Afternoon Sun: https://goo.gl/maps/xKbpDbyD9pngpF529

➤ Zoom in From the Sky: http://www.topviewtrail.com/sassodisesto/trecime.html

➤ A View from a Summit of Tre Cime di Lavaredo: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2012_HK&labels=1

Lago di Carezza

Lago di Carezza (also known as Karesee) is another striking body of water in the Dolomites of South Tyrol. Although smaller than Lago di Braies its emerald shimmer is even more magical as it appears to transform before the eyes.

In October 2018, a violent wind storm tore through the region destroying thousands of acres of forestland around the lake. The following 360-degree panoramas will give you a sense of the devastation.

➤ An Aerial VIew of Lago di Carezza Before the Storm: https://goo.gl/maps/PqrkDNS2zhbcfa91A

➤ An Aerial VIew of Lago di Carezza After the Storm: https://goo.gl/maps/yievBYEfL2CVvhSK7

➤ Lago di Carezza from the Shoreline: http://www.360cities.net/image/karersee#275.24,1.95,70.0

According to forestry experts, it will take 120 to 150 years for the forest to return to its previous form.

Val di Funes

The majestic Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss) is an unspoilt valley home to the northern faces of the saw-toothed Odle (Geisler) peaks. The contrast between its sleepy rolling meadows and the serrated stone spires of the Dolomites defines dramatic mountain scenery.

➤ The Odle Peaks Under the Spell of Alpenglow: http://www.360cities.net/image/glatschalm-villnoess#344.74,-6.68,70.0

➤ Virtually Trek the Adolf Munkel Trail: https://goo.gl/maps/RUq7Mo6S4Znw21aa7

➤ Visit the Church of St. Johann: https://goo.gl/maps/i7Vcg1QNwQjZW6618

Seceda

Seceda Mountain is at once a jaw-dropping and mystifying construct of nature. Its speary crags careen skyward like gnarled fingers grasping for life. Seeing them up close for the first time can be equally awe-inspiring and jarring — especially when a mist of clouds creeps over their tips.

➤ Seceda in Spring: https://goo.gl/maps/odv8KG7AQqCn7k6E8

➤ Seceda in Winter: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2013_B6&labels=1

Lago di Braies

One never tires staring deep into the emerald waters of Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee). The most popular lake in the Dolomites, Lago di Braies enthralls in all seasons. A circular trail wraps around its shores allowing hikers to find their mountain-lake backdrop. And if that doesn’t work they can row to the middle of the lake to take it all in at once.

➤ From the Shores of Lago di Braies: http://www.360cities.net/image/lago-di-braies#-23.62,-7.29,70.0

➤ An Aerial View of Lago di Braies: https://goo.gl/maps/CYok9qKAuUyVJkmV9

➤ A View From a Boat: https://goo.gl/maps/UPkcJT2nqeB5ENJ38

➤ Lago di Braies in Winter: https://goo.gl/maps/6Lm4ftQiih8HGXps8

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm

Alpe di Siusi (also known as a Seiser Alm) is sprawling Alpine pastureland that tumbles into several iconic mountains of the Dolomites. Its gentle hills and abundance of traditional mountainside taverns make it one of the best places in South Tyrol to immerse yourself in mountain scenery and culture by foot or bike.

➤ Alpe di Siusi in Summer: https://goo.gl/maps/qaZoWNLvnEeM1jB27

➤ A View from the Summit of Schlern Mountain: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AE&labels=1

➤ A View of Schlern & the St. Valentin Chapel: http://www.360cities.net/image/st-valentin-oberhalb-von-seis?proj=panini_projection#0.57,-5.18,110.0

Dream Now. Visit When You Can

At the time of this writing, there is still too much uncertainty as to how soon any of us can return to the Dolomites. But no matter if it’s later this year or next, do your soul some good by dreaming and planning your escape to South Tyrol. The hard-working people of the region are counting on it.

In addition to virtually visiting the Dolomites through the above links, consider also flipping your laptop shut and reading a book about the region. Check out our recommended South Tyrol-related books for some ideas. And if you are itching to do some serious trip planning, start mapping out where you want to go by reading about the top hikes in the Dolomites.

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Virtually experience the Dolomites by diving into stunning 360-degree panoramas!

Discover the Best Hikes in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 17 Comments

Looking for the best hikes in the Dolomites? Our hiker-inspired list will help you confidently plan your adventure-filled holidays in the Dolomites.

WE KNOW HOW hard it is to plan a trip to the Dolomites when every mountain and valley seems like a must-see. Especially if you only have 2-3 days to visit.

With 26 majestic ranges emblazoned by more than 3,600 trails, it’s easy to quickly become overwhelmed by the hiking possibilities. To help you, we went beyond our own experiences and surveyed the web analyzing the ratings and reviews of Dolomite hikes featured on the world’s leading travel sites.

The result? An in-depth overview of the top hikes in the Dolomites based on the experience of thousands of hikers — not just our opinion. In addition, we have also included helpful tips for creating a Dolomites itinerary that ensures your time in Italy is even more amazing.

#1 Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Located in the Tre Cime Natural Park in the Sexten Dolomites of South Tyrol, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (also known as Drei Zinnen and Three Peaks of Lavaredo) are the most famous trio of stone giants in the Dolomites. Their staggering immensity is hard to put into words. But to give you a striking perspective notice the tiny specks of hikers approaching the Three Peaks in the above photo. Such a sight makes it easy to understand why Tre Cime di Lavaredo tops the list of best hikes in the Dolomites.

The spear-like peaks, Cima Piccola, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest, pierce the sky at 9,373, 9,839 and 9,754 feet respectively. If they do not make your heart race upon first sight, check your pulse.

Angel of the Fallen monument at Tre Cime di Lavaredo — The Angel of the Fallen is a monument honoring the soldiers who fought among the peaks during WWI.

A mostly level hiking trail loops around the Three Peaks making these three amigos of the Dolomites incredibly popular with hikers of all ages and experience levels. The hike takes roughly four hours beginning from the parking lot near the Rifugio Auronzo mountain hut.

In addition to admiring the towering monoliths up close, you will also encounter military remnants from World War I including tunnels and trenches as the Front tore directly through here. For more about the war’s impact, see our award-winning story: Forest of the Fallen.

#2 Lago di Braies

It’s no surprise one of the most beautiful lakes in the world is among the best places in the Dolomites. A jewel of Italy, Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee, Lake Braies and Lake Prags) attracts throngs of visitors from around the world each year.

Regardless of the season, the lake set against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains is a sight to behold. But to see it sparkle like a rare emerald, plan to visit between May and November.

The trail around Lago di Braies is one of the best hikesin the Dolomites — When you’re done hiking around Lago di Braies, consider rowing about the lake in a vintage wooden boat.

A hiking trail encircles the lake beginning from Hotel Braies. It is an easy 2-hour hike that does not require any skill or feat of fitness.

But the trek may require you to dodge other hikers as this gem becomes incredibly busy. See our complete guide to hiking Lake Braies for details on how to enjoy the “Emerald of Italy” without the crowds.

#3 Seceda

Our personal favorite on this list, Seceda mountain (also known as the Seceda Ridgeline or Fermeda Towers) is an awe-inspiring spectacle soaring high above Val Gardena in the Puez-Odle Nature Park. Its ridgeline runs peacefully above an Alpine prairie before the saw-toothed peaks known as the Fermeda Towers cleave the heavens.

Seeing these serrated crags up close is a must for mountain lovers. In addition, the views of other famous South Tyrolean peaks from the seat of Seceda is astounding.

Dolomites in Sudtirol — One of the best hikes in the Dolomites is without a doubt along the Seceda ridgeline.

A series of lifts make reaching Seceda rather easy. The level of difficulty a hiker encounters depends on the route they choose to take down the mountain. Plan on 4-6 hours if you choose to wander from Seceda to the Twin Peaks of Pieralongia and beyond. You can find all the details and options in our hiking Seceda guide.

#4 Alpe di Siusi

Hiking around Schlern in the Dolomites — Hiking Alpe di Sisui brings you face-to-face with many symbolic mountains of the Dolomites such as Schlern.

We adore hiking Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm). As Europe’s highest Alpine pasture, it unfurls jaw-dropping mountain vistas in the most dramatic way. The pasture land is a plateau rimmed by the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites – Schlern, Sassolungo and the Rosengarten.

Thanks to its many gently rolling hills, Alpe di Siusi is a walker’s paradise. Several hiking trails criss-cross the plateau making it one of the more popular day hikes in the Dolomites.

In addition, a network of mountain huts allows you to savor some of the best homemade meals in the region. Our favorite is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. This family-owned gem (pictured above) offers the best views of the Sassolungo Group. Plus, all of their food comes directly from their own farm.

Plan to spend a minimum of a half-day hiking. Our Alpe di Siusi hiking guide gives you step-by-step directions to this Alpine wonderland.

#5 Lago di Carezza

Another lake not to miss in the Dolomites is Lago di Carezza (also known as Karesee, Karer Lake or Lake Carezza). Even more magical than Lago di Braies (if you believe the legends), Lake Carezza shimmers beneath the Latemar mountain range of the Dolomites in Val d’ Ega. Less than 30 minutes from the charming city of Bolzano, it is a convenient hiking destination for anyone staying in the heart of South Tyrol.

Lago di Carezza is often referred to as the Fairytale Lake of the Dolomites. Its ever-changing rainbow of emerald colors inspired legends long ago of a wizard and nymph. You can attempt to spot both myths by hiking an evergreen-forested loop around the lake. It is only a 30-minute hike, but with plenty of opportunities to explore, a visit can easily turn into 2+ hours.

Hiking Lago di Carezza in winter — Lago di Carezza transforms into a postcard-perfect winter wonderland during the Christmas season.

If you are in South Tyrol during the holidays, be sure to visit the Lago di Carezza Christmas Market as well. Set along the shoreline, the market brims with the cozy tidings of the season. And somehow the frozen lake still dances with a theater of icy hues.

While Lago di Braies tends to get much of the attention in the Dolomites, we prefer the pure stillness of Lago di Carezza and the Latemar mountains. If you like tranquil moments while hiking, you will find them here.

#6 Sassolungo & Sassopiatto

Sassolungo and Sassopiatto (also known as Langkofel and Plattkofel) are jagged behemoths making up the Langkofel group of the Dolomites. The sight of them from a distance is astounding. Up close it is jarring. In a way that enlivens all your senses.

From traversing the surreal “City of Stone” to taking in the undulating expanse of Alpe di Siusi from their mountainsides, hiking amid these imposing peaks should rank higher on this list in our opinion. For us, these giants encapsulate what we love about the Dolomites more than any other mountains in the world — the ability to experience their entirety from so many different vantage points.

Dog in the Dolomites — The Sassolungo-Sassiopattio hike also offers sweeping views of the Sella Group as well as this beautiful lady…if you’re lucky!

A lengthy hiking trail of varying difficulty runs around Sassolungo and Sassopiatto. Trekking the Sassolungo circuit will take your breath away in more ways than one.

Fortunately, a handful of mountain huts dot the route allowing you ample opportunities to rest and recharge with food and drink. We suggest beginning the hike at the Passo Sella parking lot in Selva (Wolkenstein). The loop takes 7 hours to complete, but you do not have to trek the full circuit to experience this heavenly group of the Dolomites.

#7 Odle Group of Val di Funes

While researching hikes in the Dolomites, chances are you have come across the picturesque scene of the Church of St. Maddalena or the Chapel of St. Johann against the roaring backdrop of the Odle Group (also known as Geisler Group). These historic churches reside in Val di Funes (Villnöss) and are emblematic sights of South Tyrol.

In addition to visiting Val di Funes for such saintly views, you can embark on a hike that carries you directly to the foot of the mighty Odle peaks. The Adolf Munkel Trail is often touted as the most beautiful of the Dolomites’ hiking trails. Hard to argue with the claim once you see its storybook setting.

Relaxing in the Dolomites — Few mountain vistas can top the Odle Group from Val di Funes.

This 3 to 4-hour hike runs through sleepy pastureland and old-growth forests allowing you to experience the wide variety of landscapes and nature adorning the Dolomites. The trail is not difficult to traverse making it a popular choice for families.

You’ll find the trailhead for the Adolf Munkel Trail at the Zanser Alm parking lot, which is about 15-minutes past the tiny Chapel of St. Johann. See our guide to visiting Val di Funes for more about this enchanting valley.

#8 The Vajolet Towers

The Rosengarten Group (also known as Catinaccio) of the Dolomites seems to spike endlessly across the horizon allowing you to admire its peaks and spires from many points in South Tyrol including Bolzano. The range is at its most stunning during sunset when afire with a red glow.

This natural phenomenon known as alpenglow or “Enrosadira”, as it is beautifully referred to in Ladin (Ladin is an ancient language still spoken in the Dolomites), inspired a legend about a dwarf king and his rose garden hence the mountain group’s name. But if you really want to appreciate the grandeur of the Rosengarten, consider hiking to the group’s most famous summits: the Vajolet Towers (also known as Torri del Vajolet and the Violet Towers).

Another famous trio of the Dolomites, the Vajolet Towers thunder skyward in Val di Tiers — a valley of pure wild-hearted beauty. The three dolomitic towers, Delago, Stabeler and Winkler (named after the first climbers to conquer their summits), reign over a surreal, barren landscape. So barren in fact, you may even wonder if you wandered through a portal to Mars on the 5-7 hour circuit.

The **Rifugio Vajolet mountain hut** is ideally located to give your legs a rest and your eyes a stunning scene before continuing on to the Vajolet Towers.

By all accounts, this is the most difficult hike on this list, which is why this corner of the Dolomites is less well known thus fewer tourists. The trek begins by taking a lift up from the Laurin Lift station in the village of Welschnofen (also known as Nova Levante) to the Rifugio Fronza (Rosengarten Hut).

How to Experience the Dolomites

The above hiking destinations are the most popular in the Dolomites for a reason. However, neither us nor anyone else can define what the best hikes in the Dolomites are for you. You have to find that out on your own.

When planning your hiking outings do not let the “fear of missing out” on a trail or sight muddle your time in the Dolomites. Cramming in destinations is a mistake. South Tyrol is a land of slow travel.

Pasta in the Italian Dolomites — Sometimes the best hike in the Dolomites is from one mountain hut to the next!

Beyond enjoying the breathtaking scenery, take the time to experience the enthralling culture of the region from its savory cuisine to its riveting history to its heart-warming traditions such as woodcarving.

If you’re like us, you may just find the best hike is each and every outing no matter where you roam.

What to Know Before Hiking in the Dolomites

Before planning your trip and embarking on hikes in the Dolomites you should know the following:

As the “best” in the Dolomites, these hiking destinations can at times be bustling with other hikers especially during the peak season of summer. Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. However, be sure to check the lift station operating schedules for any hikes requiring a cable car ride.
Weather can be unpredictable and change quickly in the Dolomites. Make sure you sport proper clothing, footwear and gear before venturing into the mountains.
Understand how to read the trail signs. Review the trail sign guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library to become comfortable with their instructions.
Consider using South Tyrol’s affordable public transportation system to hike the Dolomites in the most environmentally-friendly way possible. Buses regularly bring hikers to these destinations.
If you plan to rent a car during your trip, see our Driving in Italy guide to understand what is legally required and the rules of the road.
While you may encounter English-speaking staff at the restaurants and resorts, it’s helpful and respectful to know some basic German or Italian. You can find guides to both languages in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library mentioned above.

Dolomites Hiking Guidebook — A **Dolomites hiking guide book** is invaluable in finding the hidden gems of the Dolomites.

Creating Your Dolomites Itinerary

For every Dolomites itinerary, we recommend selecting one hiking destination per day. Each region of the Dolomites offers much more to see than these hiking routes.

In fact, consider purchasing the hiking guide: Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. It covers step-by-step directions to lesser-known trails with equally grand scenery. This book is especially helpful if you are keen on avoiding crowds while hiking.

But if you’re set on embarking on as many of these outings as possible, here are the ones you can plan together as day hikes in the Dolomites:

Tre Cime di Lavaredo & Lago di Braies – These two destinations are less than an hour apart by car.
Lago di Carezza & Vajolet Towers – Since the hiking trail at Lago di Carezza is quite short you can also trek to the Vajolet Towers on the same day. The lift station is just 10 minutes from the lake.
Seceda & Alpe di Siusi – The lifts to each destination are opposite of each other in the village of Ortisei. If you time the lifts wisely you can see the iconic sights of both.

Want help crafting your itinerary? Take advantage of our expertise with our South Tyrol Itinerary Review Service.

Where to Stay in the Dolomites

View of Sassolungo Mountain — A view to a thrill! **Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof** in Ortisei offers a spellbinding panorama of Sassolungo and Sassopiatto.

To get the most out of your holidays in the Dolomites, consider staying near the region where you will be hiking the most. From luxury resorts to mountain huts to farm stays for as little as 30-50 € per night, you will have no problem finding accommodations that fit your budget and desires. Here are recommendations for each area:

If you would like a 5-star experience while in the Dolomites, check out our detailed reviews of Romantik Hotel Turm and Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort. Both resorts will dazzle with a host of Alpine wellness amenities and treatments that perfectly complement a long day of hiking.

Additional Tips for Your Holidays in the Dolomites

No doubt the Dolomites are a tremendous draw for South Tyrol. But the Dolomites make up only part of the region’s mountain story.

In addition to your hikes in the Dolomites, consider hiking in the Italian Alps to the west where you will encounter a wonderous collision of Mediterranean and Alpine mountainscapes. See our guide to visiting South Tyrol for more about what awaits you in Italy’s best-kept secret!

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Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

By Kate & Vin 37 Comments

“Awe-inspiring.” “Breathtaking.” “Majestic.” All words you may have heard to describe Alpe di Siusi (also well known as Seiser Alm) — Europe’s most dramatic high mountain plateau. But the one you really need to know before visiting is “vast.”

Alpe di Siusi is immense. A landscape of utter wild Alpine abandon. Picture an area even bigger than Manhattan looming thousands of feet above the valley floor of the Dolomites.

With 900 miles of hiking trails, you could spend an entire holiday in South Tyrol exploring the area. That’s why we put together this guide.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our free Alpe di Siusi hiking guide

In this post, you will discover how to experience the most iconic scenery of Alpe di Siusi — the Sassolungo (Langkofel), Sassopiato (Plattkofel) and Schlern (Sciliar) massifs — in all their glory. We also provide a mountain load of tips such as where to eat and additional sights to consider as you plan your Alpe di Siusi adventure.

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A Hike All Can Enjoy

Hiking Around Schlern — An emblem of South Tyrol, Schlern Mountain with its famous Santner and Euringer peaks steals the show on your hike to Compatsch. The two stony towers are named after the first people to climb them.

Alpe di Siusi is a heart-pounding playground for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages and stripes. The hiking route we highlight winds through the plateau past rustic farms, mountain huts and thickets of evergreens. Striking mountain panoramas never leave your sight.

Each trail we recommend ascends easily making this itinerary ideal for any age and skill level. And regardless of the season of your visit, you can embark on this trek.

We detail the hike from two different starting points and their nearby attractions so you can determine which one appeals to you the most. Select the one that aligns most conveniently with where you’re staying and your interests.

No matter where you choose to begin the hike, the route returns to your starting point. You’ll get to experience the dramatic difference between the mountains from opposite directions. Round trip will take you 4-5 hours.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds)

Where is Alpe di Siusi?

Before we jump into specifics on this hike, let us paint a clear picture of where Alpe di Siusi is located. The name of the plateau can cause some confusion for travelers as it also denotes a broader holiday region in the Dolomites.

Alpe di Siusi Map — Alpe di Siusi is easy to reach. The region is just 40 minutes from Bolzano or Brixen.

The Alpe di Siusi holiday region includes the plateau as well as villages and valleys lying far below to its north and west. Also often associated with the plateau is the holiday region of Val Gardena, which runs more to its east.

As we show below, both holiday regions serve as excellent launching points for hiking Alpe di Siusi. Whether beginning your hike from Val Gardena or Alpe di Siusi, the hiking route we cover is the same. The only difference being your starting and endpoint.

By the way, you do not need to base yourself in either holiday region to enjoy Alpe di Siusi while visiting South Tyrol. You can be on the plateau in only 40-60 minutes by car from Bolzano, Brixen or Merano.

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #1

Mont Seuc Cable Car — The Mont Sëuc Cable Car zips you to the top of the plateau in 10 minutes.

The first hiking option we cover involves setting out from Ortisei (St. Ulrich) in Val Gardena. From the heart of Ortisei, you will take the Mont Sëuc Cable Car (Mont Sëuc means Alpe di Siusi in Ladin). In a matter of minutes, you will be on top of the plateau. From here, you will embark across the plateau to the tiny village of Compatsch (Compaccio).

After departing the cable car station any doubts you may have had about hiking a “pasture” vanish. Few sights anywhere can rival the sky-bound beauty of the Sassolungo Group unfolding before your eyes.

Using the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Reach Alpe di Siusi

Here are the step-by-step directions to take the Mont Sëuc lift:

If arriving in Ortisei by car, you have a couple of parking options to consider. You can park in the underground garage at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station or at the underground “Garage Central” parking lot in the center of Ortisei. From Garage Central it is just a 5-minute walk through town and over a foot/bike bridge to the station. Both parking areas are nicely located if you intend to also explore Ortisei.
Once at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, purchase a round trip ticket. The current cost is €19,90 per person.
To reach the cable car boarding area, insert the ticket into the turnstile ticket slot to gain access. Then wait for a station staff member to direct you to board an available cable car. Sit back and soak in the views on the way up. To the east, the Seceda massif and alp will gradually reveal itself.

Hiking from Mont Sëuc

Begin your hike by heading left on trail no. 9 towards the Sassolungo Group. The trail will descend through stands of pines until opening into the rolling meadowland.

On your left, you will pass the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the first of many mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi. “Schwaige” “Baita” and “Rifugio” are all used to denote mountain hut. These relaxing Alpine refuges have tended to travelers since the Middle Ages.

When you approach a fork in the trail stay on trail no. 9 to the left which will bring you past the Sporthotel Sonne. Follow trail no. 9 for a good distance enjoying the rugged faces of the Sassolungo Group staring down on you. Eventually, you will come to Hartlweg which intersects the trail. Take a right onto Hartlweg.

When Hartlweg runs into trail no. 6B take a right to visit Malga Sanon if you are ready for a refreshment or a bite to eat. If not, take a left onto 6B.

Trail no. 6B will merge into trail no. 9 for a short distance. You will come to an option to take trail no. 3 to the right, but continue on 9 until you come to the second intersection for trail no. 3. Then take a right onto 3 towards Compatsch.

Mountain huts like **Malga Schgaguler Schwaige** shown here invite your weary legs to rest with a hearty South Tyrolean meal, drink and view you will not forget.

Stay on trail no. 3 until it ends at trail no. 30, which is also known as the Hans & Paula Steger Weg. Named after two South Tyrolean climbing and skiing legends who once called Alpe di Siusi home.

Take a right onto trail no. 30 and follow it for roughly another 20 minutes until reaching Compatsch. The Sciliar mountain from this stretch is at its most stunning.

Once at the village, you can give your legs a rest at the restaurant in the Nordic Ski Center. It offers a more contemporary setting than the rustic mountain huts you encounter, but the menu serves up delicious pasta if that suits your mid-hike appetite.

After you’re done visiting Compatsch, set out to return to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station via the same route. You’ll pass by Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again, which is where we had the best forking meal in South Tyrol. From their terrace, you can devour your final views of Sassolungo before zipping back down to Ortisei on the cable car.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #2

If you are interested in spending most of your time in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region, embarking on a hike of Alpe di Siusi itself from Compatsch is an excellent option to choose. Some of South Tyrol’s most alluring villages, churches and castles reside in this holiday region.

To start out from Compatsch, drive 7 miles above the village of Seis. Keep in mind the following:

The road leading towards Alpe di Siusi is closed to incoming traffic from 9 am to 5 pm so be sure to arrive before 9 am. The road is not closed to outgoing traffic so you can leave at any time.
Parking is available on the left of the road in Compatsch near the Alpe di Siusi visitor center in a lot called P2. The cost to park is €17,00. You can avoid paying the parking fee by parking in one of the roadside lots you’ll encounter on the drive up, but then, of course, you’ll extend your hike uphill.
If you happen to arrive after 9 am when the road is closed, all is not lost. Take the Alpe di Siusi Cable Car up from the village of Seis. The cable car cost is €17,00 per person so it pays to arrive before 9 am and park.

Hiking from Compatsch

This hiking option follows the same route as above except instead of hiking to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, the mid-point for your hike will be the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige before heading back to Compatsch.

You can certainly hike up to the cable car station and enjoy a refreshment and meal there if you wish in their restaurant. But our preference is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. Nothing beats their food and views in our opinion.

Here’s the hiking route you will follow from Compatsch. From the parking lot, you will pick up trail no. 30 (Hans & Paula Steger Weg).

Schlern Mountain in Winter — No matter when you visit, spring, summer, fall or winter, the sights on Alpe di Siusi will steal your breath. Guaranteed.

Follow trail no. 30 until it intersects with trail no. 3 where you will take a left towards Saltria. Trail no. 3 will eventually merge into trail no. 9 where you will have the option to go left or right. Be sure to follow trail no. 9 to the left.

Stay on trail no. 9 and then take a right onto trail no. 6B. This trail will slowly curve to the east until coming to Hartlweg. Like above, you can stay on 6B to take a break at the Malga Sanon if you wish or take a right to continue trekking across Alpe di Siusi.

Hartlweg will lead you to trail no. 9 where you will take a left. Follow trail no. 9 all the way to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

The Langkofel Group from Alpe di Siusi — One of our favorite aspects of Alpe di Siusi is that the scenery is always changing as the clouds and sun move across the sky.

After you have enjoyed a hearty meal and glass of South Tyrolean wine or beer, set out for the return hike to Compatsch. It’s worth pointing out that you do not have to initially take trail no. 9 back if you don’t wish. Take a glance at your map and you will see other trails that will eventually bring you to trail no. 30 into Compatsch.

Bonus Hiking Option: Let Curiosity be Your Guide

Reaching the plateau and simply wandering trails as your heart sees fit is an enticing option for free-spirited souls. Many trails are accessible to all and marked as such that you can roam without ever getting lost.

Find a trail that loops if you’re set on trekking Alpe di Siusi without seeing the same sight twice. Just be sure to bring a map from the cable car station so you can estimate how long it will take to reach any given point that interests you.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Val di Funes

Where to Stay in Alpe di Siusi

We recommend staying in the Val Gardena region or the Alpe di Siusi region for a hiking outing on the pasture. Our personal preference is Alpe di Siusi. Staying here places us near other favorite hikes such as the Oachner Höfeweg.

This stunning hiking trail should not be missed. It leads through rolling farmsteads flush with vineyards, orchards and chestnut-riddled forests beneath the peaks of the Dolomites.

Romantik Hotel Turm Poolside — Romantik Hotel Turm offers everything you could want after a long day hiking Alpe di Siusi.

For a resort experience unlike any other, consider the Romantik Hotel Turm. This unique retreat immerses you in beautiful history and art from as far back as the 13th century. You will also be dazzled by the hotel’s sumptuous cuisine and wellness area that guarantees soul-mending relaxation.

Romantik Hotel Turm is nestled in the medieval village of Völs, which sits in the shadow Schlern allowing access to Alpe di Siusi in a matter of minutes. Learn more in our in-depth review.

Additional Tips & Considerations

Make plans to explore Ortisei and the fascinating tradition of woodcarving in Val Gardena before or after hiking Alpe di Siusi.
The Parish Church of St. Ulrich in Ortisei is well worth a visit as well. Built in the late 1700s, the church’s red bulbous dome is easy to spot making it a beacon for history and architecture lovers. Its interior is among the most gorgeous we have ever seen. Precious frescoes, oil paintings and woodcarvings adorn every inch.

The Parish Church of Ortisei holds ornate works of art such as this mesmerizing and larger-than-life woodcarving of St. Ulrich by the famous sculptor Ludwig Moroder.

The Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm (the lift operates until 6 pm from mid-June to mid-October). The station begins operating in mid-May after ski season and closes again in early November before reopening for the ski season typically in December. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
Want to see the sunset on Alpe di Siusi? You’re in luck. Once per week in the summer the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station runs from 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm to allow evening walks and dinner at their restaurant. Review the night schedule to see if the dates align with your trip to South Tyrol.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Val Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways. Note: The Val Gardena card does not provide access to lifts based in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region.
If you wish to experience Alpe di Siusi when the meadows are in full bloom with wildflowers, time your visit from mid-June to mid-July.
Hiking isn’t the only way to enjoy Alpe di Siusi. If you’re a biking enthusiast, consider renting a mountain bike or e-bike. BAMBY rental is located right next to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station.
If you like the idea of enjoying Alpe di Siusi with a blanket of snow, plan on a visit from November through April.
The mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi are not open year-round. Be sure to review this mountain hut list and schedule prior to planning your hike.
Want to see cows lazily roaming the pastures of Alpe di Siusi? Visit the plateau beginning in mid-July. The cattle typically are driven up in early July and driven back down by mid-September when the food supply has dwindled.
Harness the natural energy of Alpe di Siusi to improve your wellbeing. Be sure to explore the wellness products originating from its meadows. Up to 80 different kinds of grass, herbs and flowers can found in just a handful of hay from Alpe di Siusi. Local companies like Trehs create natural cosmetic and wellness products based on the ancient wisdom passed down through the ages from the mountains of South Tyrol.
If you embark on a hike of Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch, don’t miss a visit to the historic gem of St. Valentin Chapel, which sits below the Schlern massif in Seis. Its steepled-beauty has graced the mountain backdrop since 1244.
Like all the regions of the Dolomites, Alpe di Siusi is shrouded in age-old legends. Witches long ago performed rituals on the plateau. You can embark on a spell-binding hike from Castelrotto that takes you to the famous “Witches’ Benches”.
For additional Alpe di Siusi hikes of various themes, lengths and difficulty, check out the official Alpe di Siusi holiday region website.
For recommended hiking gear and clothing to wear while hiking Alpe di Siusi, access the guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Before any hike, pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

St. Valentin Chapel in Seis — The Alpe di Siusi holiday region contains many historic sights worth exploring such as the St. Valentin Chapel shown here.

Have you embarked on your own Alpe di Siusi adventure? If so, let us know in the comments below any additional tips, insights and hikes worth sharing.

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Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Val di Funes

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

Deep in the heart of South Tyrol lies a secluded valley where you’ll find yourself seemingly lost in the pages of a fairy tale.

If J.R.R. Tolkien were to drop you a postcard from Middle Earth there’s a good chance it would come from Val di Funes. This breathtaking land in the Dolomites may very well be nature’s greatest masterpiece — a perfect storm of beauty and brawn.

Once you have stared longingly into a picture of the valley with the St. Magdalena (Santa Maddalena) Church amid piercing green hills and the mighty Odle (Geisler) peaks tearing into the southern sky, the sight seals your wanderlust fate. Seeing this mountainous paradise firsthand becomes an obsession.

In this post, we give you the step-by-step guide to visiting the top sights in Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss). You’ll discover how to experience the best views and hike from one attraction to the next while taking in all the Alpine enchantment this blessed valley offers.

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Where is Val di Funes

Tucked between Val Gardena to the south and Val Pusteria to the north, just 45 minutes from Bolzano, you’ll find Val di Funes. Home to people as far back as prehistoric times, the valley captivates at every turn.

From unspoiled forests and fields to rolling pastures stewarded by lone farmsteads and roving livestock, idyllic scenery echoes eternally from one mountainside to the next.

Map of Val di Funes — Val di Funes is just 45 minutes from Bolzano to the southwest and 30 minutes from Brixen to the north.

Val di Funes carves roughly 15 miles through velvet evergreen slopes until abruptly meeting the jaw-dropping thunder of the Dolomites. When you first see the saw-tooth edge of the Odle peaks shredding the heavens, it is jarring.

The severe contrast against the tranquilness of the valley defines the very meaning of awe. Such brooding sights of nature’s might are a rare gift.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds)

What to See in Val di Funes

Val di Funes teems with attractions worth exploring, but the two most celebrated are the Church of St. Magdalena and the Church of St. Johann. These two storied holy sites are rather small, but leave a mountain-size impression on travelers.

Looking at the Odle Peaks — Awe-inspiring in every sense. The Odle peaks storm up nearly 10,000 feet into the heavens.

Like the north-facing Odle peaks, they are symbolic of Val di Funes. The much-loved scene of their steeples among the mountains may make them the most photographed churches in South Tyrol.

The itinerary we detail below will take 2-3 hours if covering it primarily by foot. If you do not want to walk that much, you can drive near to either church.

Both can be enjoyed in as little as an hour. However, we recommend planning on at least spending a morning or afternoon exploring the area.

The Church of St. Magdalena

The Church of St. Magdalena beams from a hill in a tiny village of the same name located on the far end of the valley. The church itself sits atop a grassy hill where it is said pagan rituals took place long ago.

The exact date the church was built is not known, but it was first mentioned in historical documents in 1394. According to legend, the church was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene after a mirage of her appeared in a nearby brook. As you may recall, she is one of the most beloved saints as she embodies the power of forgiveness and was the first to see Jesus resurrected.

Inside, the church design and decor is classically baroque. Ornate gold and marble accents and remarkable paintings flourish from ceiling to floor. Above the altar is a painting of Mary Magdalene followed by a statue of her at the foot of the cross.

If you are planning a visit to South Tyrol in the fall consider attending Speckfest, which occurs the first weekend of October each year and is held just below the church. Discover more about this autumn culinary celebration by reading about our recent fun-filled afternoon at Speckfest.

St. Magdalena Church Interior — The Baroque interior of the Church of St. Magdalena displays precious works of religious art.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Seeing the Church of St. Magdalena up close is certainly a rewarding experience, but admiring it against the backdrop of the Dolomites is a sight you’ll never forget. Here’s how to capture the iconic panorama as seen in our feature image:

From the Via Geisler roadway into the village of St. Magdalena take a left at the blue sign directing you to the village center. Straight ahead of you will be a public parking lot. We recommend parking here and hiking along the road to the panorama point and church. The road leading directly to the church is closed to automobiles.
Take left onto Bergweg and then a right on Trebich. Note: Street names may not be visible so be sure to follow the signs for the church (Kirche / Chiesa).
Follow Trebich to the left and then Magdalenaweg, which veers to the right. Stay on Magdalena as it winds gradually upward.
You’ll eventually see the church to your right. But instead of taking the right continue straight to reach a higher elevation.
You will then come to a farmstead on the road where you will take a right. Follow the road up to the second bend. Here, you will find a short trail called St. Magdalena Panoramaweg cutting across the slope offering the best views.

After thoroughly drinking in the views, we suggest visiting the church. It is open daily.

The Church of St. Johann

Only 40 minutes away by foot from the Church of St. Magdalena is the picturesque Church of St. Johann. This little stone church with its famous onion-bulbed steeple is actually more akin to a chapel, but the sight of it is equally stunning. It is also often referred to as St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui or San Giovanni.

The Church of St. Johann came to grace a meadow at the foot of the Odle massif in 1744. A Baroque gem inside and out, the front facade showcases decorative pillars painted on the ends with a depiction of St. John of Nepomuk near the peak of the chapel.

Front of St. Johann Church in Val di Funes — Since 1744, The Church of St. Johann has charmed travelers visiting Val di Funes.

The life of St. John of Nepomuk is not as well known as St. Mary Magdalene. Considered a martyr, St. John was sentenced to death by drowning in 1393 by King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia. He was gagged and thrown into the Vltava River from the Charles Bridge in Prague.

Within the chapel, a series of paintings on the sides of the altar tells the story of St. John. The altar itself is grandly ornate with bedazzling marble and gold in the classic Baroque style like the Church of St. Magdalena. Curiously, a painting shows St. John holding out his tongue. It is apparently meant to symbolize his defiance of the king, which ultimately led to his torture and murder.

Cow in Val di Funes — Grazing beneath the Dolomites. Cows lazily roam all around St. Johann.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Since the Church of St. Johann sits in the middle of a wide-open field, numerous points will wow you as you meander to its doorstep. Here’s how we recommend visiting the chapel to soak it all in:

From the Church of St. Magdalena walk the path located outside the cemetery downhill towards the village center. Along this path, you will come to one of the most epic wayside shrine scenes in South Tyrol.
The path eventually becomes Kircheweg. Sweeping views of various farmsteads along this route make it a walk to remember.
Follow Kircheweg all the way into the village and then take a left onto Bergweg. Before you cross onto Bergweg pause to enjoy the ripples of a small waterfall on your left.
Stay on Bergweg and keep to the right when you come to a fork. This will lead you to the Via Geisler roadway where you will walk along the side for roughly 10 minutes until reaching a trail crossing a pasture to The Church of St. Johann.
Before venturing to the church, you’ll come across a stand where you can purchase fresh jams, syrups and more from the nearby farm. We always recommend supporting these family-owned farms when you get the chance. There’s nothing better than the regional specialties direct from the farm.
The largest stony spire of the Odle massif rises up beyond the church. It is known as Sass Rigais. This peak taught mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner how to master the climb.

The Church of St. Johann is available to visitors, but it is not always open. You can request access by contacting the Ranuihof Manor located on the edge of the church’s meadow.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

How to Reach Val di Funes

Thanks to its relatively central location in South Tyrol, adding a trip to Val di Funes as a part of your itinerary is easy no matter where you base yourself.

If you are arriving by car, the valley can be directly accessed from the A22 Autostrade. The exit is just north of Chiusa (Klausen). Reaching St. Magdalena village on the far end of Val di Funes is a pleasant drive. It takes less than 20 minutes once you exit the main highway.

House in Val di Funes — What a view. The balconies in Val di Funes dazzle with brightly colored geraniums from end-to-end.

Those using public transportation while in South Tyrol can still easily embark on an adventure in the valley. A bus departs from Chiusa and Brixen multiple times each day. To explore public transportation options, visit the official Val di Funes website.

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Additional Tips & Considerations for Visiting Val di Funes

Consider taking a break between hikes by having lunch in St. Magdalena. A couple of establishments offering traditional South Tyrolean hospitality with views include Gasthof Fermeda and Waldschenke.
Visit the Puez-Odle Nature Park Visitor Center in the heart of St. Magdalena to discover other attractions and history of the area.
Make a trip to Val di Funes a full-day outing by trekking the Adolf Munkel trail. This 4+ hour hike will bring you up close to the Odle mountain group.
If you want to see Val di Funes alive with Alpine wildflowers the best time to visit is the summer season.
To enjoy the valley with the least number of tourists, we suggest visiting Val di Funes in May or October. Another option is to explore Val di Funes in the winter when it becomes a wonderland for snow lovers.
Like many mountain vistas, sunrise and sunset will give you the most spectacular photo opportunities.
Visit Val di Funes during Speckfest to partake in the annual celebration of South Tyrol’s traditional mountain-smoked ham.
Before arriving in St. Magdalena you’ll pass through the village of San Pietro in the heart of Val di Funes. Consider visiting another remarkable church known as the “Duomo della Valle” (Cathedral in the Valley). Its onion-bulbed steeple soars an impressive 200+ feet.

Have you been to Val di Funes? Let us know in the comments in the below if there are any additional tips or sights you would recommend.

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Treks in the Dolomites: The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

By Kate & Vin 37 Comments

Hiking Seceda in the Dolomites is a must for every mountain lover. Its serrated crags make it one of our favorite hikes. Here’s everything you need to know to enjoy these peaks.

OF ALL THE iconic mountain scenery in South Tyrol there is perhaps no more striking sight than the Fermeda Towers of the Dolomites’ Odle mountain range.

From the sweeping pastures of Seceda mountain, these saw-toothed peaks seem born out of some prehistoric fire wherein a flash the burning mountain became stone. Flames once alive now forever frozen in time.

In this post, we show you how to see them. Up close. And in a heart-pounding way that will make for one of your most unforgettable days in South Tyrol. Our step-by-step guide to hiking Seceda brings you to another must-see sight in the Dolomites: The Church of St. Jakob. The oldest church in Val Gardena, its Gothic spire abruptly pierces the Alpine sky like a sword in battle.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our free Seceda hiking guide

Seceda Hiking Summary:

Hiking Time – The trek will take 4-6 hours depending on how long you choose to linger and admire the beauty all around you
Top Sights – Seceda Ridgeline with the Fermeda Towers, Twin Peaks of Pieralongia, Alpe di Cisles Meadow, Church of St. Jakob
Hiking Difficulty – Relatively easy, but if you choose to hike down instead of taking the cable car it can become challenging
Altitude – 2500m (8,200+ ft)
Hiking Rating – One of the best in South Tyrol

How Seceda & the Dolomites Came to Be

But before diving into how to hike Seceda, allow us to whisk you back 280 million years — when the Dolomites were just mere inches high. Knowing the birth of these geological giants not only adds to their wonder but also imparts a greater appreciation for their protection as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While ancient lore spun from deep within the Dolomites would have us believe the “Pale Mountains” arose from dwarves dutifully weaving moonlight around mountain peaks to appease a lovesick prince, the truth is far less romantic yet equally fascinating.

Dolomites Coral Reef — The Dolomites formed under a prehistoric ocean 280 million years ago.

The jagged crags of the Dolomites captivate all who see them, but to the expert eye, they also tell the story of billions upon billions of fossilized life forms. The cleaved cliffsides reveal past ages in stratifications that run from foot to summit. In the period when dinosaurs first appeared, the Dolomites were actually coral reefs under the deep ocean blue.

Over millions of years, colossal compressions of the earth’s crust thrust the reefs higher until emerging into the sky 30 million years. The erosive actions of earth over epochs shaped the mountains into the serrated forms we see today.

So when treading across the Dolomites take a moment to ponder the countless critters now extinct right below your feet. Their scientific value is as immense as the mountains. We just might have something to learn from them.

Where is Seceda in the Dolomites?

Seceda mountain looms from 8,200+ feet above the villages of Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva in Val Gardena. The mountain is within the Puez Odle Nature Park (Naturpark Puez-Geisler in German) and is one of many forming the Odle Group (Geislergruppe or Gruppo delle Odle) of mountains.

The name Odle comes from the Ladin language of Val Gardena and translates to “needles” — certainly an appropriate moniker given the mountain’s pointy peaks. Seceda, on the other hand, stems from the Latin word “siccus”, which means dry. Again, quite appropriate since the vast pastures of Seceda can be rather stark depending on the time of year visited.

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How to Reach Seceda

Reaching Seceda’s summit can be as easy or hard as you like. The most direct way to ascend to the top of Seceda is from the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola Station in Ortisei, which then connects you to the Furnes-Seceda cable car part way up the mountain. Here are the step-by-step directions to follow:

If arriving at Ortisei by car, you can park right next to the gondola lift station or at the underground Garage Central parking lot in the heart of Ortisei. We recommend parking at the Garage Central if you intend to wander about Ortisei after your hike. The walk to the gondola station is less than 10 minutes. See the map in our downloadable Seceda hiking guide.
At the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola station, you’ll need to purchase a ticket to use the lift. For this specific hike, you will purchase a one-way ticket that allows using both the gondola and the cable car to bring you the Seceda summit. The cost is 23,00 €. Note: If you are not interested in making the trek down the mountain, purchase a round-trip ticket.
Both the gondola and cable car ride are smooth and peaceful. When the gondola ride ends, walk to the Furnes-Seceda Cable Car station which is a short distance away to hop in the cable car lift, which whisks you to the summit. During the ascent, be sure to consume the ever-expanding panorama. Towards the west, the mountains of Alpe di Siusi will gradually unfold into their full splendor. It takes roughly 15 minutes in total to reach the summit using both lifts.

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Seceda Step-by-Step

Once you arrive at the Furnes-Seceda summit station, pick your jaw off the cable car floor before stepping out. For the best views of the Fermeda Towers begin hiking Seceda by hopping on trail no. 1 as indicated by the signpost.

This will lead you up an incline that any beginner hiker can handle. Soon you will be at the foot of the impressive Seceda summit cross. Next to it is a circular lookout point forged from iron that helps you identify all the mountains gracing your eyes from the summit.

Looking towards Alpe di Siusi more iconic peaks of the Dolomites including the Sella Group, the Sassolungo massif and the Witches’ Mountain (Mt. Schlern) lie on the horizon. From up here, you can even spot the king of South Tyrol mountains, Ortler, which beckons from a height of 13,000 feet more than 80 miles away.

Just beyond the summit cross to the east is an ideal spot to capture some of the most photogenic scenes of the Fermeda Towers.

From here, you will continue on the trail towards the Fermeda Towers. The path will now descend slightly. If your heart does not pound faster as the sheer immensity of the peaks swells before you, that’s a good indication to check your pulse.

Eventually, you will come to a signpost for trail no. 6. Follow this trail to your left, which pulls you up the steep Furcela Pana (Pana-Scharte) where you will take in the Fermeda Towers from the edge of the earth. Well, it appears to be anyway. This ascent up the Furcela Pana is a tad grueling, but not dangerous.

Once you have thoroughly soaked in the sight walk back down and pick up trail no. 1 again. This will bring you to the Troier Hut — an idyllic, rustic place to relax and eat under the guard of the Fermeda peaks.

Find a table on the patio facing the Sassolungo massif across the wide chasm of pastures, stones and pines. The Troier Hut restaurant serves a variety of delicious South Tyrolean specialties right from their farm to your table. In addition, the hut makes a mean Hugo cocktail — a South Tyrolean original you must try.

After you’re done eating, sit back in one of the sun loungers below the patio. Here, let the sweeping view lullaby you into a brief nap before trekking onward.

When you’re rested and ready, take trail no. 2B to see the remarkable twin peaks of Pieralongia. Beyond these stone spear tips, you will take trail no. 1 again where you will begin your descent toward St. Jakob’s Church.

Fermeda Chapel — A curious stone chapel sits beneath the Seceda ridgeline.

Stay on trail no. 1 until coming to a fork with a signpost pointing to trail no. 2. This trail runs to the left and right. Head to the right towards Ortisei as noted on the signpost. This trail stretches all the way across the meadows of Seceda.

You’ll pass additional huts if you need to take another break or to satisfy your craving for another Hugo. The trail also winds past Fermeda Church — a tiny stone chapel that will charm you from a hilltop on your right.

⇒ LEARN MORE: Understanding South Tyrol Trail Signs & Markers

Into the Forest of Mt. Balest

The trail will become steeper as you approach Mt. Pic and Mt. Balest, which are the first mountains above Ortisei before Seceda. You’ll walk up to the opening of a forest where a signpost for trail no. 6A directs you to St. Jakob.

This trail cuts into swaths of evergreens that tower above the rock face cliff side of Mt. Balest. Even though the trail runs through forested slopes, several points allow you to gush over the wide-open Val d’ Anna below as well as capture glimpses of Sassolungo through breaks in the treetops.

Seceda Hike Wayside Shrine — One of the many **wayside shrines** you’ll encounter while hiking Seceda.

It is important to note that trail no. 6A becomes increasingly difficult as it twists and turns over Mt. Balest towards St. Jakob. While we do not consider it an easy hike, it is not dangerous in terms of height and steepness.

Parts are quite rocky and narrow-pathed however so it’s important to watch your step to prevent injuring a knee or ankle. For those less sure on their feet, we recommend using hiking poles during this part of the trek. That said, we have seen hikers of all ages on this trail so don’t let the increased difficulty level deter you. Just take your time, be prepared and allow enough time before sunset.

When you arrive at the Balest signpost at 1823 meters, follow trail no. 6 towards St. Jakob. From here, you are roughly 30 minutes from the church.

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Reaching the Church of St. Jakob

Once you arrive at the Church of St. Jakob (“San Giacomo” in Italian and “Dlieja da Sacun” in Ladin), the sight of it against the backdrop of Sassolungo will stop you in your tracks. We recommend taking a seat on the bench overlooking the church to let its antiquity sink in.

It’s not known exactly when the church was built, but documents first mention it in 1283. For nearly a thousand years it has greeted travelers and you can now count yourself as one of them.

Unfortunately, the church is permanently closed unless you arrive at a time when guided tours are being conducted or during the summer when it is frequently open for visitors during normal hours. However, its cemetery is open year-round allowing you to wander around the small church grounds within the circular outer wall.

A gorgeous wayside shrine greets you at the front of the cemetery. Its haunting presence exemplifies the expert craftsmanship of the woodcarvers of Val Gardena. Also worth seeing are the late Gothic frescoes from 1450 on the south-facing wall of the church. They possess remarkable color and detail depicting St. Christopher with Jesus as a child perched on his shoulder.

St. Jakob Church Frescoes — The frescoes on the south-facing wall of St. Jakob are from 1450.

If you’re interested in a tour of its historic interior, we suggest contacting the tourist office in Ortisei to find out specifics on when they may be available.

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Ease Your Way Down to Ortisei

From St. Jakob Church return to trail no. 6 and follow it toward Ortisei. From this point, you are roughly a half-hour from the village. The remainder of the walk is easy and will take you through more evergreen forest where you’ll stroll past interesting works of art. One, in particular, sums up this hiking adventure quite well.

Visual artist Claudia Comte pays tribute to the natural wonder of Val Gardena with a timber sculpture that aptly spells out “WOOOW”. A word that needs no translation given the views all around. This universal expression of awe came together using 20 spruce trunks each nearly 20 feet high.

After returning to Ortisei, we highly recommend taking the time to see more works of art from the talented artisans of Val Gardena. Visit one of the many quaint woodcarving shops and studios dotted in and around the village.

To learn more about this charming centuries-old tradition born in the heart of the Dolomites, read about our behind-the-scenes visit with Deur Sculptures — a local woodcarving family with wood sculptures in some of the most celebrated cathedrals in the world.

Where to Stay to Hike Seceda

During our most recent Seceda hiking outing, we stayed at Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof in Ortisei located just below the Church of St. Jakob. Every square inch of this family-owned hotel radiates heavenly Alpine charm. When we came across it, we had to book a stay.

The balcony view was among the best we have enjoyed in South Tyrol. Each morning we woke up to a wide-open view of the immense Sassolungo massif across the valley.

The hotel offers a gorgeous pool area for unwinding after a tiresome day on the slopes. But best of all, the key lifts for hiking Seceda and other mountains of Val Gardena are just minutes away.

The owner, Andrea Piccolruaz, spoke excellent English and provided us additional hiking tips while entertaining us with her adventures abroad.

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Additional Tips & Considerations for Hiking Seceda

Access an easy-to-follow PDF of our Seceda hike to bring on your trip.
The Ortisei-Furnes gondola and Furnes-Seceda cable car operate from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm. Both open in early June and close mid-October. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways.
If you plan to hike down Seceda, make sure to schedule your hike when you will still have daylight.
Additional ways to reach Seceda include taking the Col Raiser gondola from St. Christina or the Resciesa funicular from Ortisei. Plan on extra time if using either option as they are a less direct route. If you do not like the idea of being elevated in a cable car, the Resciese funicular runs on tracks so you never leave the ground.
If you want to experience Seceda at sunrise or sunset or are a landscape photographer looking to shoot Seceda at night, we recommend booking an overnight stay at the Fermeda Hut, Almhotel Col Raiser, or Rifugio Firenze. The other option for a sunrise view is to start the day early with a hike up from Ortisei. It also permitted to camp on Seceda in certain areas. If you plan to camp, be sure to pitch your tent away from private property and national parks. Also, pack up your site each morning.
The best time see to Seceda beaming with wildflowers and greenery rivaling Ireland is in July.
An additional breathtaking sight you may want to hike to along this route is the Crujeta summit cross near Mt. Pic off of trail no. 6.
If you plan to hike Seceda in spring or fall, but are not sure about the conditions on the summit, visit the tourist office in Ortisei. Staff will be able to advise you on the conditions and what gear you should have for your hike.
For stunning aerial shots of the peaks, you may want to consider using a drone. This post helps you select a quality drone that fits your budget.
For tips on hiking gear and clothing to wear for hiking Seceda, access the guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Be sure to pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

Pack a Dolomites Hiking Guidebook

Anyone spending considerable time in the Dolomites should purchase a compact hiking guidebook. They are invaluable for pre-trip planning and for discovering other hiking options if your plans have to change due to mountain weather, unexpected lift closures, etc.

Our favorite book to bring is Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. It includes easy-to-follow maps and covers step-by-step directions to popular destinations such as Seceda as well as lesser-known hikes that are equally spectacular.

The hikes featured in the book vary from under 2 hours to full-day excursions. We find it especially useful for uncovering hidden gems that allow us to avoid crowds while hiking. The Majority of the hikes featured are day-long outings.

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Forest of the Fallen – Brunico’s Moving Tribute to the Soldiers of World War I

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

“I am young, I am twenty years old; yet I know nothing of life but despair, death, fear, and fatuous superficiality cast over an abyss of sorrow. I see how peoples are set against one another, and in silence, unknowingly, foolishly, obediently, innocently slay one another.”

WORDS, ONCE ONLY APPARITIONS in our minds, were now suddenly flesh and blood. Each step we took summoned another line from Erich Maria Remarque’s “All Quiet on the Western Front”. Each turn, another face haunting in the forest.

But we were in much more than a forest.

All around us stood grave markers.

Not of stone, but of timber.

Wooden crosses fashioned in pacifying poses silently spoke to us. Bronze plates with forgings of “1915”, “1916”, “1917” and “1918” conjured images of war. German names along with tattered photographs whispered stories into our minds. Wishes and dreams of young men longing to be told, but never to be heard.

What is this place of somber beauty we wondered? Minutes earlier we were gazing up in awe at the medieval markings of a 13th-century castle. And then on a whim decided to cross a nearby footbridge to a hill shrouded in pine and firs. Here, we trekked up a steep set of stairs. At the top, a forested slope unfolded before us revealing a cemetery unlike any we have ever seen.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness.

A grey monument resting on the hill’s crest held the answer. Inscribed on sable panes were the names of those buried. Next to this list of the fallen, we found the story of the ‘Soldier Cemetery’.

War on the Rooftop of the World

Soldiers climbing the Dolomites during World War I — Soldiers scaling a cliff in the Dolomites during WWI. (Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institution)

Fighting a war anywhere is hell. Fighting one in the unforgiving heights of the Dolomites is utterly unthinkable. Yet, during the First World War, its crags and crevices saw thousands of soldiers lost to the madness of mankind and more still to the fury only born on mountains. The warring conditions on the rooftop of the world were among the most treacherous ever endured in the history of warfare. If bullets or shell-fire didn’t tear you asunder, the mountain’s pummeling snow, hellish winds and crashing boulders would.

Brunico (also known as Bruneck) in South Tyrol was home to several wartime hospitals. Those injured battling on the front lines of the Dolomites received care here. Many did not make it out alive. Too many. When the local cemetery could no longer support the dead, a new one was founded on this hill in Brunico known as Kühbergl.

An Austrian Lieutenant Colonel, A. Bechtold, developed the vision for the Soldier Cemetery. For the men who suffered horrors on the summits, he sought to bring them final peace within the mossy velvet of the forest floor.

The cemetery was built by Russian prisoners of war. Logs from stands of pine became the grave markers — forever memorializing the fallen in harmony with the stillness of the forest.

Resting in Quiet Rapture

One-hundred years ago this past year, the last shot of the First World War rang out. At 11 am on the eleventh day in the eleventh month of 1918, Germany signed an armistice bringing the war to an end. Upon receiving the news, soldiers simply laid down their arms and went home.

The toll? 37 million dead.

669 lie in the Soldier Cemetery. They are soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian empire, as well as Russia, Serbia and Romania. Just 20 years later, the world would spiral into another war taking the lives of 50 million more. Nineteen German soldiers killed in bombing raids from the Second World War are also at rest in the cemetery.

In a solemn act of respect for the men, the cemetery dedicated sections to the respective faiths of the soldiers. Men of Christian, Jewish and Muslim faith lay separate but together. These brothers fighting for pieces of the earth now share it in quiet rapture as their home.

Caretakers of the Deep Wood Light

As we continued walking through the cemetery, we came across a few women tending to the graves. We learned they are members of an association of women that has kept each grave in pristine form since 1921.

Watching them work was as moving as the cemetery itself. In silence, they carefully placed evergreen branches and other favors from the forest throughout the resting places. These beautiful deep wood adornments evoked an even more serene feeling to our timbered surroundings.

Soldier Cemetery Caretaker in Bruneck — Since 1921, an association of women has given their time to maintain and beautify the cemetery.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness. Whether encountering a meticulously carved wayside shrine off a hiking trail or rows of crosses masterfully wrought out of iron in quaint, candlelit Alpine churchyards, the traditions of this land inspire awe. Taking time to reflect in such moments requires no belief in the divine to enjoy the beauty of humanity.

How to Visit the Soldier Cemetery of Brunico

A visit to the medieval town of Brunico is an easy trip add-on before or after a trek around Lago di Braies. While in Brunico, a walk through the Soldier Cemetery is a must. Every lover of nature and history will find it an enchanting sight.

The town offers you a few ways to reach the cemetery. From the grounds of the Bruneck Castle walk to the south castle wall and continue down a small slope to a footbridge. Cross over the road (Via Riscone) to the Kühbergl hill. Then follow the path to the right for a bit until you come to a set of stairs leading uphill. The cemetery sits at the top of the steps.

A footbridge near Bruneck Castle — Near Bruneck Castle lies a footbridge that leads you to the Soldier Cemetery.

Additional options to visiting the cemetery include two parking lots directly off Via Riscone. If you choose either one, you’ll have to walk uphill even more, but neither path is difficult.

No matter how you choose to visit, keep an eye out for signposts indicating ‘Cimitero di Guerra’ and ‘Kriegerfriedhof’ to ensure you’re heading the right direction.

Capturing the Soldier Cemetery with your camera is a heartrending experience no matter when you visit, but please be courteous to anyone there paying respect to those lost.

We are honored this post was recognized by Traverse Creator Awards with a “Best Storytelling Award”. The ability to discover the amazing history of South Tyrol while exploring all of its natural splendor is a gift we do not take for granted. Our hope is to inspire all who visit to take the time to get to know the history of the land and its people.

Treks in the Dolomites – Hiking Where Witches Roam

By Kate & Vin 29 Comments

Autumn in South Tyrol. The beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it’s 900 years ago. The Dark Ages. When the death rattle of summer awoke one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing daylight meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves rippling in the wind, but the lurking of all things wicked. A shadow twisting across the ground no longer a swaying tree branch, but an evil spirit grasping for your soul.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol such mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous region of northern Italy is a land where nightmares took real form.

Hiking Trail on Alpe di Siusi — The mountains of Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm) are shrouded in legends and bloodcurdling tales.

With craggy mountain peaks breaking the horizon like weathered gravestones, it’s no wonder the area is home to myths and legends that could be torn from the pages of Stephen King.

The Witches of Schlern Mountain

A corner of the Dolomites with haunting tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet brooding scene for any trekker.

But all who come this way should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the massif.

He had them tortured until they confessed to stealing babies and riding their brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the devil.

According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday by the mountain where they partook in black magic rituals and danced with the devil. The witches were thought to summon torturous thunderstorms from Schlern’s fang-toothed peaks.

Schlern Moutain — Storm clouds gather around the Witches’ Mountain – Schlern / Sciliar.

In fact, one legend tells of a bull grazing the rolling hills near the village of Seis, just below the massif, and discovering a bell in the earth. The villagers hung the mysterious bell in the bulbous spire of the ancient St. Valentin Chapel. When storms reigned down, the residents would fervently ring the bell to break the witches’ spell.

Schlern sunset — The setting sun burns the October sky above the peaks of Schlern.

Hikers can visit a revered site of the witches known as the “Witches’ Benches” (Hexenbänke in German) located on Mount Bullaccia (Puflatsch). Bullaccia haunts to the north of Schlern mountain offering some of most jaw-dropping views of Alpe di Siusi and beyond.

The Witches Benches captivate the imagination. They are rock formations resembling spell-binding benches, chairs and other creepy contortions. Surely once the wicked seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if the stone thrones are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever mars the mountainside.

A Witch’s Curse

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the prairie. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky.

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern lies the Prösels Castle. Erected more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold bears a horrific history.

Schlern menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed. Their crime? Stealing babies and riding upon brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the Devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake.

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

Have Broom Will Travel

Getting to Alpe di Siusi is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less ghoulish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

If you want to experience South Tyrol’s witch folklore firsthand, we recommend departing from Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German). From intricate witch wood carvings to themed shops and restaurants as well as the occasional stray black cat, witches abound from its centuries-old cobblestones.

Hexenkeller Restaurant in Castelrotto — Restaurants such as the Hexenkeller in Castelrotto pay tribute to the enchanting folklore of the Dolomites.

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although the plateau is accessible year-round.

The witching hours of October make a tempting time to explore how land and legend weave together to create folklore that stirs one’s darkest fears. The cable cars still carry adventurers to the top through much of October if the weather allows it.

Another good time to seek out witches on Alpe di Siusi is on Walpurgis Night, which takes place every May 1st. According to locals, Walpurgis Night is when witches, wizards and other wicked spirits and ghouls meet on Schlern to celebrate the “Witches Sabbath”.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk.

The celebration is said to involve dancing, drinking and feasting until dawn, as well as a guest appearance by the Devil himself in the form of a goat.

For centuries, peasants took measures to protect their cattle on Walpurgis Night. They locked and sealed stable doors with three crosses. In addition, sprigs of ash, hawthorn, juniper, and elder, once sacred to the pagan gods, were used to guard against evil.

However, the night was not filled only with dread. The locals also saw it as a time of omen. Specifically, if it rained. An old saying goes: “On Walpurgis Night rain. Makes good crops of autumn grain,”

How to Reach the Witches’ Benches

Once you are on the Alpe di Siusi, the Witches’ Benches are about a 1-2 hour hike depending on which cable car you choose.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk. It menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the land.

From Castelrotto, take the Marizen Chairlift to the Marizen Alp. Then follow trail no. 9 through the forestland of Tiosels until you come to trail no. 8, which leads to the right up to Alpe di Siusi.
On Alpe di Siusi, trail no. 8 will intersect with trail no. 14. Follow it to the left and stay on it until reaching the Witches’ Benches.

Witches Chairs in Castelrotto — The Witches’ Chairs above Castelrotto make another hex-worthy trek through dense forests.

On your trek back to Castelrotto, you may wish to stay on trail no. 8 descending further down the slope to another mysterious stone formation shrouded in legend: The Witches’ Chairs (Hexenstühle).

Two stones appear as literally chairs facing the valley. Like the Witches’ Benches, it is not known if these are man-made or oddities of nature.

To return to Castlerotto from the Witches’ Chairs, stay on trail no. 8 until you can take a left on trail no. 7 into town. The hike back is less than an hour.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

South Tyrol Casts a Spell

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that forever touches your wanderlust heart.

Its a spell you’ll undoubtedly want to share with others, but sometimes such bewitching autumn hexes are best left for others to discover on their own.

As in the foreboding words of Ray Bradbury: “Beware the autumn people…They sift the human storm for souls, eat flesh of reason, fill tombs with sinners. They frenzy forth. In gusts they beetle-scurry, creep, thread, filter, motion, make all moons sullen, and surely cloud all clear-run waters. The spider-web hears them, trembles, breaks. Such are the autumn people. Beware of them.

SAVE THE WITCHES’ BENCHES TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST!

Hiking in South Tyrol – A Land Born to Lift the Wandering Spirit

By Kate & Vin 41 Comments

NEVER. STOP. EXPLORING. Three simple words to some, but a clear and commanding clarion call to those with adventure running deep in their veins.

If you’re an explorer at heart ,you’ll find no better place to heed the call than South Tyrol. The land was born to lift the wandering spirit to new heights. With its medley of Alpine and Mediterranean climates, your wanderlusting ways will be amplified by hiking among a vastly diverse playground unlike anywhere else on Earth. Every step. Every sight. Lures you into a new discovery.

Here, you can embark on a jaw-dropping high-mountain trek using South Tyrol’s world-class lift systems, take a leisurely stroll in ancient valleys and hills nestled between the snow-capped peaks or give the bottom of your feet a break by hopping on a mountain bike. And if breaking a sweat in the Dolomites by bike isn’t your speed, then pedal and sip your way through medieval wine villages along the South Tyrolean Wine Road.

But that’s just the tip of the mountain peak so to speak. Below we highlight a few of our favorite South Tyrol hiking outings to give you a taste of the adventure waiting for you.

By the way, if this post makes you want to lace up your hiking boots, be sure to browse our South Tyrol itinerary ideas page for more enticing adventures.

All Along the Waalwegs

South Tyrol provides a one-of-a-kind hiking experience along ancient irrigation channels called Waalwegs. Waalweg what? Don’t let the name scare you off. The name translates to irrigation path. These casual hiking trails ascend easily and wind through miles of meadows, forests, vineyards and orchards.

They follow water channels carved long ago to usher melting snow packs down the mountainsides. Along the way you can enjoy stunning castles, villages, churches and alpine wayside shrines up close and from afar. The paths ramble along next to flowing Alpine water offering the soothing gurgle of a stream with each step.

Regardless of age or hiking skill level, you can walk or even jog along these gently sloping trails. The strikingly diverse landscapes they cover will leave you awestruck.

Cafes and mountain huts well placed along the paths serve as resting spots to grab a crisp refreshment such as a Hugo, a South Tyrol original, and an ample helping of tasty pasta or an authentic Tyrolean dish. The views from these wayside haunts are enough to keep your feet and gaze firmly planted.

Along this Waalweg you'll get to visit Castle Tirol, Thurnstein Castle and Brunnenberg Castle, as well as endlessly capture them from many photo-worthy angles.

A couple of the most scenic and popular Waalwegs to add to your trip plans are the Lagundo/Algunder and the Marlinger/Marlengo near Merano. The Marlengo Waalweg follows the longest irrigation channel in the area and gives you ample views of the Etschtal valley and Lebenberg Castle.

The Algunder route is exceptionally suited for families with young children or older adults, but no matter your age you’ll find it fascinating. Along this Waalweg you’ll get to visit Castle Tirol, Thurnstein Castle and Brunnenberg Castle, as well as endlessly capture them from many photo-worthy angles. Walking here you may just wonder if you wandered into Westeros. That’s Game of Thrones speak for the uninformed.

A Palm-Drenched Promenade

The Tappeiner Promenade (Tappeinerweg) above Merano is a meanders dream. Mediterranean beauty abounds all around this delightful trail. Countless palm trees, eucalyptus, cacti, agave, olive trees and other flora follow the promenade from beginning to end. It is one of Italy’s best walks.

As you stroll along ever more breathtaking panoramas of Merano come into view. You also get an opportunity to dazzle your nose by exploring a fragrant herb garden featuring over 230 plants, as well as climb the Powder Tower (Pulverturm) where you can imagine what it was like centuries ago to defend this corner of paradise.

Vineyards in Merano, Italy — Engulfed by vineyards. Promenades, like this one near Merano, are among the most tranquil South Tyrol hiking trails.

The Tappeiner Promenade connects with several other walks and eventually winds its way into the village of Dorf Tirol. But you can also take a side trail down to the old town center of Merano where you can relax along the Passer river.

Several cafes dot the river making it an ideal place to sit back and enjoy gelato or a refreshing beverage. Kate’s favorite to sip here is the Veneziano, a fusion of prosecco wine, Campari liqueur and sparkling water while Vin likes to cool off with a frosty beer from Forst, a local brewer in nearby Algund.

Explore the Heart of the Dolomites

Hiking South Tyrol — Alpe di Siusi unfurls into a vast hiker’s paradise.

The Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) in the Dolomites holds the largest mountain plateau in Europe. It is immense in every sense of the word. The moment you arrive at the top of the plateau your mouth will drop. Our first time here was heart-pounding spectacular. Nothing prepared us for the sprawling greenery and mountain views that unfurled before our eyes.

Bursting with hiking, biking, skiing and snowshoe trails of various levels of difficulty, Alpe di Siusi offers 900 miles of trails over an of 34 square miles. From the plateau, you’ll admire jutting Dolomite mountain peaks, ancient pastures and farms, cozy mountain huts and around 790 species of plants in the spring and summer.

South Tyrol Hiking in Winter — The well-tended trails on Alpe di Siusi make hiking South Tyrol during the winter a must.

Getting to this Alpine wonderland is easy thanks to South Tyrol’s swift lift system. Once at the top, all ages and skill levels can enjoy the prairie no matter the season you choose to visit. See our step-by-step guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi.

An Alpe di Siusi hike that winds through South Tyrol’s ancient history is to the “Witches’ Benches”. It brings you to a mystical rock formation that has spawned tales of curses and witches going back to the Dark Ages.

As much as we love hiking, sometimes nothing beats a bike ride. There is perhaps no better way to explore the heart of the Dolomites than by mountain bike. And the Alpe di Siusi is as bike-friendly as they come.

You can pedal through more than 600 miles of bike trails at various altitudes — spanning from easy to technically challenging. Several tour packages are available from outfitters where you can choose from short rides of a couple of hours to rides over several days.

To the east of Alpe di Siusi rises another hiker’s paradise in Val Gardena: Seceda mountain. Hiking to its mammoth spear tip peaks is a thrill every mountain lover should experience.

The hike can be as easy or challenging as you wish. We recommend taking the lifts from Ortisei to the summit and then hiking back down to the Church of St. Jakob — a medieval masterpiece that is the oldest church in Val Gardena. Our post about hiking Seceda gives you a step-by-step guide to an unforgettable day roaming this icon of the Dolomites.

Seceda in the Dolomites — Seeing the Fermeda peaks from the summit of Seceda is a sight that will steal your heart.

Pristine Alpine lakes sit patiently waiting for admirers throughout the Dolomites. The most popular is the famous Lago di Braies. For good reason. It is one of the most striking natural gems in the world.

But in the age of over-tourism, exploring Lago di Braies must be done right in order to get the most out of a visit. Our guide to The Emerald of the Dolomites walks through how to enjoy your time perfectly lost in the luster of lake’s blue-green aura.

Braies Lake — Lago di Braies is one of the most popular hiking destinations in the Dolomites.

By the way, if you are interested in war history, another hike in the Dolomites to consider is in nearby Trento to the Pordoi Pass where there is a German war memorial. It’s hard to believe, but the steep, crags of the Dolomites saw some of the most horrific fighting in World War I. When hiking at these heights, it will give you a profound respect for the hardships too many soldiers had to needlessly suffer.

Another valley you should not miss while hiking in South Tyrol is Val di Funes. It lies just to the north of Val Gardena and possesses Alpine scenery torn from the pages of a fairytale.

Val di Funes Hiking — Magical? Without a doubt. Val di Funes is a land where fairytales come to life in Val di Funes.

We provide you a detailed Val di Funes itinerary to help you explore the top sights of this treasured valley of the Dolomites. The alluring landscapes you encounter here will detoxify your mind, body and soul.

Begin Planning Your South Tyrol Hiking Adventure

The one thing South Tyrol will never run short of is adventure. Well, it likely won’t run short of wine, apples, speck, pasta or beer either.

Whether you embark on any of these outings or pursue any of the countless other hikes and bike rides available, your experience will build an enduring bond with this land born for the wandering kind.

Visiting South Tyrol is an easy trip add-on if you’re pining for natural beauty after a stroll through Venice or craving more mountain hikes after trekking other nearby trails like the Tour du Mont Blanc. We developed Throne & Vine to make it easy for you to plan your escape to this hidden gem. Discover more of the outdoor adventures waiting for you in South Tyrol.