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Christmas in the Dolomites: Visiting Bolzano’s Mercatino di Natale

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Christmas in the Dolomites: Visiting Bolzano's Mercatino di Natale 1
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When a town holds a man lost in a tomb of glacial ice for 5,300 years, you better believe they know how to celebrate the blessings of winter. Bolzano boasts the largest Christmas market in Italy…and the most stunning Christmas tree we have ever laid eyes on. Here is your guide to a festive visit.

Bolzano’s famous Christmas market (commonly referred to as Mercatino di Natale or Christkindlmarkt) is surrounded by epic history. It takes place in Bolzano’s 900+-year-old city center beneath the shadow of the Dolomites and the soulful marble statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, a Minnesinger who brought joy to peasants and royals alike in the 12th and 13th centuries.

Just steps away stands the gorgeous Our Lady of Assumption Cathedral with its staggering Gothic bell tower. And not far from here, in a chamber as cold as the North Pole, lies the victim of the world’s oldest murder mystery: Ötzi the Iceman. His new home at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology is a mere 10,000+ feet lower than where he succumbed to an arrow fired by an enemy 50 centuries ago.

Amid all this fascinating antiquity, Bolzano’s Christmas market pulsates day and night with patrons. The Piazza Walther (Waltherplatz) is dotted with 70+ wooden chalets selling everything from mountain cheeses to felt slippers to alpine wellness oils, lotions and herbs culled from the pines and prairies of the South Tyrol. If you cannot find a worthy stocking stuffer here, it’s only because you are distracted by all of the fresh-out-of-the-oven aromas radiating around you.

What to Savor at Bolzano’s Christmas Market

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The most important thing to bring to Bolzano’s Christmas market is your appetite.

As you stroll the market, hints of cinnamon, gingerbread, roasted chestnuts, pretzels and strudel swirl together like snowflakes on the wind. The scent of the season seems to follow you everywhere. Exercising restraint is futile.

We recommend immediately diving into fluffy Krapfen, a traditional South Tyrolean pastry, and buying a bag of Sptizbuben to enjoy while walking the market. Sptizbuben is a delicious South Tyrolean holiday cookie filled with raspberry or apricot jam. They sing Christmas carols in your mouth.

Even more intoxicating, in more ways than one, is the sweet smell of oranges and cloves mingling with red wine. Several stands around the square serve up generous pours of Glühwein and other seasonal libations. The lively atmosphere of Bolzano’s Christmas market makes it a joy to order mug after mug and simply sip away the hours by a glowing fire.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Terror by Lantern Light: Tempting Krampus in South Tyrol

What to See at Bolzano’s Christmas Market

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As tempting as it is to get lost in a mug of mulled wine, you should also make time to admire the local craftsmanship on display at Bolzano’s Christmas market. Throughout the market, you can find handicrafts exemplifying the creative spirit of South Tyroleans.

We are particularly fond of the region’s woodcarvings, which exude alpine charm with every chip and chisel. If you time your visit right, you can even catch an artist bringing their work to life on the spot.

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Bolzano’s Christmas market may just have the prettiest Christmas tree in the world. It is breathtaking to see firsthand.

Beyond the stalls themselves, taking in the decor abounding the square is a visual feast all its own. The huge Christmas tree anchoring the market looks as if Santa decorated it himself. It is a glorious sight during the day as much as it is at night.

If none of the above makes your spirit bright, a stroll through Bolzano’s Christmas market during a music performance certainly will. The Piazza Walther and the nearby cathedral hosts concerts during the duration of the season.

When is Bolzano’s Christmas Market

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The Bolzano Mercatino di Natale begins during Advent, the four weeks leading up to Christmas. For 2022, it opens on November 24 and runs through January 6. If you are a snowbird, you can include a visit to the market during your ski getaway. Most ski resorts in the Dolomites and the surrounding mountains begin operating in early December.

Consider visiting the Dolomiti Superski region. Its closest slopes are only 30 minutes from Bolzano. A single pass with Dolomiti Superski gives you access to 15 ski resorts covering 745 (1200 km) miles of pristine powder amid the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Experience the Magic of Christmas in Brixen

How to Arrive

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As the largest Christmas market in Italy, the Bolzano Mercatino di Natale can be crowded therefore we recommend arriving via bus or train to avoid the hassles of parking. Plus, you’ll help keep the market’s certification as a “Green Event” meaning you are enjoying the tradition in an environmentally-friendly manner.

If you choose to arrive by car, we suggest planning your visit during the week or arriving as early as possible on the weekend. See our guide to visiting Bolzano for our recommendation on where to park, as well as discover other historic sights to see in South Tyrol’s capital.

Tip: By the way, no matter how you arrive, be sure to walk Bolzano’s historic center to experience Christmas like the locals. Additional boutique Christmas markets are tucked in the Piazza Municipio, Piazza del Grano and in the courtyard of Palazzo Campofranco.

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Seduced by a Castle: Discover South Tyrol’s Romantic Castel Rametz

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Seduced by a Castle: Discover South Tyrol's Romantic Castel Rametz 10
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Enthroned atop a vine-veiled hill brandishing a soaring mountain backdrop, the historic wine estate of Castel Rametz seduces your eyes first then your lips.

If a visit to Merano is on your South Tyrol travel wish list, do your history-loving soul a favor and make time to visit Castel Rametz. This 13th-century estate embodies the beauty of the Merano region.

Located in the lavish district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz landed on our must-see list since first admiring the estate from a mountainside perch at the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle. We visited the estate a couple of times in the fall, but always arrived when the winery was closing.

So when we discovered that the castle hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit while the entire estate was open. Seeing Castel Rametz up close and turning several shades of merry before visiting Merano’s traditional Christmas market seemed like the appropriate way to get into the spirit of the season.

A History in the Vines

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While Castel Rametz has witnessed many nobles come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful ruler of the castle. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of vino soon followed.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate.  These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

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Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

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During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”.  Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol. 

Courting Christmas Cheer

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We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of a dog.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lay beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its walls.

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The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with royal holiday dazzle. The classy seasonal decor throughout made the castle look even more like it was plucked from a fairytale. After taking it all in, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the glühwein is all gone.

A stand in the courtyard offered us traditional delicacies to snack on while enjoying the crackle of a roaring woodfire. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to warm our hands up a bit before browsing the Christmas market located inside Castel Rametz.

A Must-see Medieval Wine Celler

Once inside Castel Rametz, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Saltner in South Tyrol
The museum at Castel Rametz details the evolution of winemaking in South Tyrol.

The artisans’ display tables were set up between exhibits of vintage winemaking equipment. A large color painting of a “Saltner” was intriguing to study. Saltners were once widely employed in South Tyrol to protect the vineyards. They wore wild and colorful garb meant to scare away would-be thieves, birds and other grape-thirsty critters.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The romantic ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a shawl, warming our hearts. Amid the glow of flickering candle flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar
The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is fascinating to browse.

We could have remained under the spell of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wine that eventually makes us want to uncork one. After admiring the cellar, we made our way upstairs to Castel Rametz’s enoteca.

Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We planted ourselves on two seats at the enoteca’s wine-tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to embark on a fun tasting.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz
The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

Castel Rametz Wine Tasting

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

Castel Rametz Winery

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to sip at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but are not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website. 

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Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also dine at the castle.

The Alps Alight: Explore the Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

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Christmas Market in Merano, Italy
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South Tyrol brims with Christmas markets plucked from a fairytale. Discover the ones not to miss and the alpine magic you can expect to taste and see.

If only Ebenezer Scrooge spent one holiday moment in South Tyrol, Italy, the Ghosts of Christmas would have surely found another wretched soul to haunt. The region’s Christmas markets conjure a merry spirit that can make the blackest heart sweeter than candy cane.

Set amidst some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world, South Tyrol’s Christmas markets beam with holiday cheer. Especially when the evergreen boughs bend beneath the first snow and the summits gleam silver. Indeed, such storybook sights could make anyone spontaneously burst into carol after carol.

From festively decorated market stalls crafted of fragrant mountain pine to the fresh-from-the-oven aromas tempting your nose to the fascinating handicrafts born deep in the Dolomites, you will find that no place embodies the magic of Christmas quite like here.

⇒ Start planning your trip to South Tyrol: Access our travel resources & step-by-step hiking guides

Bolzano Christmas Market

Bolzano Christmas Market Panorama
Bolzano’s Christmas market features 70+ stalls of holiday goodness.

If you’re visiting South Tyrol during the season of tinsel and tidings, there is one market you would be a fool to miss. Bolzano’s Mercantino di Natale is the largest Christmas market in Italy. Like the Dolomites draped above the city’s historic skyline, the market is a grand expression of alpine charm.

We have never inhaled so many delicious aromas as we have walking through Bolzano during Christmas. If you are a fan of beaming holiday decor, you will stand in awe beneath the most gorgeous Christmas tree we have ever seen. It towers over the market like Santa harvested it from the North Pole and lowered it back to earth from his sleigh.

To see more of Bolzano’s Christmas market and discover the best way to visit, check out our market guide.

Merano Christmas Market

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The melodic rush of a sparkling river joins the music of Merano’s Christmas market.

Merano possesses what we consider to be the most enchanting walk in Italy so it’s no surprise then this wander-friendly town straddling the roaring Passer River hosts a Christmas market of equal enchantment. Many of Merano’s 70+ market stalls run along the riverfront promenade, but you will find Christmas splendor sprinkled throughout the town when you visit.

Nestled in the Piazza della Rena is the Historic Christmas Village of Merano, which celebrates age-old Christmas traditions and specialties. After walking the procession of stalls on the promenade, the village makes a cozy place to huddle next to a fire with a warm mug of hot chocolate and listen to the holiday melodies radiating from the nearby stage.

Across the river, in the Piazza Terme you can swirl the night away on an outdoor ice-skating rink and dine inside gigantic Christmas bulb ornaments. For a panoramic view of all of Merano’s holiday dazzle, be sure to relax by the fire on the rooftop of the Forst beer garden.

Sterzing Christmas Market

As the smallest of the big markets in South Tyrol, the Sterzing Christmas market (also known as Vipiteno) packs a bundle of charm on every square inch of the town’s Piazza Città. Walking through it is like stepping into a holiday snow globe.

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Sterzing’s Tower of the Twelve is a must-see at Christmas.

This town seemingly lost in the ages of thrones and stone has often been touted as one of the “most beautiful villages in Italy”. It’s easy to see why any time of year, but a visit during the Christmas season makes it a truly undeniable claim.

The 15th-century Zwölferturm (Tower of the Twelve) clock tower shimmers above the Christmas market like a medieval beacon for St. Nicholas. Romantic two-story houses with massive bay windows adorned in Christmas decor hide their centuries of wear behind colorful facades. Their vivid hues enfold the market’s festive atmosphere.

After browsing the stalls and indulging in a warm bowl of Speckknödelsuppe, savor more of Sterzing’s history by visiting the Church of the Holy Spirit just beyond the market.

Once inside this Gothic marvel from 1399, the bustle of the market recedes into silence allowing you to admire the surprising number of well-preserved frescoes gracing its ancient walls. They are among the most enthralling in South Tyrol.

Brixen Christmas Market

Christmas Market in Brixen, Italy
The Christmas market in Brixen unfolds beneath the oldest cathedral in northern Italy.

Celebrating the true essence of Christmas in Brixen could have been said to begin nearly 500 years ago when the town’s residents welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman no doubt needed rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north. Brixen welcomed him with open arms.

Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. Those two weeks left quite an impression on the town.

In addition to its wonderous Christmas market, held in the historic Piazza Duomo under the guard of the oldest cathedral in northern Italy, Brixen celebrates Soliman’s journey to this day. During the holiday season, you can be whisked away to a fantasy world through a production called “Soliman’s Dream”. Taking place in the courtyard of the 13th-century Bishop’s Palace (Hofburg), the show is a must-see spectacle. Note: The production’s theme and story may change from year to year.

Like Merano, Brixen’s market also includes an outdoor ice-skating rink. For a graceful outing on the ice, we recommend taking a spin before partaking in the joys of Glühwein.

For more about this lovely Christmas market, see our post on how to experience the magic of Christmas in Brixen.

Lago di Carezza Christmas Market

Carezza Christmas Market in the Dolomites

When a remote mountain lake tells of a wizard long ago shattering a rainbow within its pristine waters, there may be no better place for an event as magical as a Christmas market. The Christmas Market at Lake Carezza (Lago di Carezza / Karersee) takes place in the ancient forest surrounding its fabled shore. Stalls shaped like wooden lanterns line a trail that winds from one side of the lake to the other.

If you’re longing to experience a Christmas market within a winter wonderland, Lake Carezza can almost guarantee it. Thanks to the higher altitude it is one of the most picturesque markets.

The market sits within the Dolomites with the Latemar and Rosengarten massifs looming as backdrops. When we wandered the market, countless evergreen boughs held fresh puffs of snow and the mountains wore icy crowns.

For anyone worried about enduring a wintry chill, wood stoves dot the market offering comfort and the enchanting aroma of a crackling wood fire. Standing over flames in the mountains and listening to Christmas tunes from a trio of trumpets will leave you merry long after you have taken your last sip of Glühwein.

We timed our visit to the market when the Krampus was set loose upon the trail. This was our first encounter with the less-than-jolly beasts of lore and we were blown away by the experience.

Krampus on the march
The Christmas Market at Lago di Carezza includes a fun-filled visit from Krampus.

If you can make it during the weekend that lures the Krampus out of their caves, we highly recommend it. To learn more about the Krampus tradition, be sure to read about our Krampus encounters in South Tyrol.

The Lake Carezza Christmas market occurs each weekend in December from 10 am to 8 pm. It is just 20 minutes from Bolzano by car. For specific details on the event go to the official website for Eggental Valley, which is where Lake Carezza is located.

Forst Brewery Christmas Forest

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The Christmas Forest at the FORST Brewery is one of our favorite destinations during Christmas.

Since 1857, the Forst brewery in Algund has been spreading cheer well beyond the holiday season. One cannot trek in South Tyrol at any time of year without encountering an opportunity to relax with a refreshing Forst beer at a mountain hut. It’s an invitation we always accept.

But the brewery’s cheerful tidings rise to new heights each year with the opening of its enchanted Christmas Forest (Forster Weihnachtswald / Foresta Natalizia). Dining and drinking at FORST is always a joy, however, our first visit to the Christmas Forest was one of the most relaxing evenings of the holidays.

Out of all of the Christmas markets in South Tyrol, it is the one we would return to multiple times during the season. Admiring the tasteful holiday splendor FORST adorns throughout the brewery is worth the trip alone. The Christmas Forest at FORST creates a cozy atmosphere that the traditional Christmas markets simply cannot match.

Aglow with crackling fires throughout, the Christmas Forest includes a spectacular ice-skating rink softly lit by sparkling lights, a bakery offering culinary wonders such as traditional South Tyrolean Zelten (Christmas Cake), specialty stalls brimming with local crafts and of course a festive beer garden where liters upon liters of FORST beer swirl with holiday magic beneath countless ornaments.

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FORST is the oldest brewery in South Tyrol.

Each year, FORST also opens its gourmet restaurant called “Felsenkeller” for the duration of the market. Guests enjoy a magnificent feast in an ancient stone cellar furnished with exquisite decor including the largest Christmas ball in the world. The dining experience at Felsenkeller is what Christmas dreams are made of.

The FORST Christmas Forest begins enchanting holiday revelers from November 20 through January 6. It is open from 10 am to midnight. We recommend visiting the Christmas Forest after you have strolled the traditional Christmas market in Merano. FORST is located less than 10 minutes away.

In addition to the market festivities, guided tours of the brewery are also available each day. If you wish to experience the Felsenkeller gourmet restaurant, reservations must be made in advance at felsenkeller@forst.it. For those not wanting to splurge on a gourmet feast, you can also dine in the brewery’s traditional restaurant, Bräustüberl Forst, which is delicious and adorned with ornate woodwork that fosters a heart-warming ambiance.

Tyrol Castle Christmas Market

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What was it like to celebrate Christmas at a time when lands were ruled from thrones and candles were for more than setting the mood? The Christmas market at Tyrol Castle gives revelers a charming glimpse.

Arguably the most celebrated castle in South Tyrol, Tyrol Castle makes one’s jaw drop long before reaching its gates. The castle’s imposing presence atop a craggy glacial moraine in Dorf Tirol leaves us spellbound every time we lay eyes on it. Without a doubt, it is among the top medieval sights in all of Europe. Built in the 1100s, Tyrol Castle was home to the Counts of Tyrol who wielded enough power to name an entire region.

We reached the castle by parking in a public lot located in Dorf Tirol. From here, we walked along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This paved path edges along a deep ravine.

Beyond are splendid views of tumbling vineyards and the Texel mountain group of the Oetztal Alps. In addition to fawning over Tyrol Castle during the walk, plenty of vantage points reveal the stunning Brunnenburg Castle, which sits on a crag below the stronghold.

A 260-foot stone-walled tunnel carved out in the 17th century leads visitors through the final stretch to the castle. The entire trek takes roughly 20-30 minutes, but if you’re like us, you’ll linger longer. The path ascends easily, but if you prefer to roll your way to Tyrol Castle, a horse-drawn carriage ride is available.

The market entices with food and refreshment stands within the castle’s courtyard. While we were there a gentleman roasted chestnuts on the spot and a brass band filled the air with notes of cheer. We, in turn, filled ourselves with cheer by sipping on mulled wine. Afterward, we wandered inside the castle to browse crafts and other South Tyrolean specialties for sale. A woodcarver wowed us with his artisanship on the lathe at one of the exhibits.

Castle Tirol in South Tyrol
The first snowfall at Tyrol Castle is a feast for the eyes.

Upon finishing touring the market we ventured into the castle’s Hall of Knights. The portal leading to the chapel captivated us with remarkable Romanesque marble sculptures from the 12th century. Studying the faces and figures in the marble makes a trip to the castle worth it on its own.

Meandering around the chapel is a moving experience as the haunting expressions of faded frescoes follow your every step. A life-size crucifixion scene looms overhead. Erected in 1330, it reveals the emotions of Jesus, Mary and John with striking realism. On the wall across the chapel is the first known depiction of South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

The Tyrol Castle Christmas market only occurs the first two weekends in December. It takes place from 10 am to 7 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Throughout each day different activities take place and a variety of music groups entertain in the courtyard.

⇒ READ MORE: Visiting Tyrol Castle: Ancient Might of the Alps

How to Visit South Tyrol’s Christmas Markets

Italy Christkindlmarkt

If you plan to be in South Tyrol during the Christmas season, it pays to make time to visit all of these markets. The markets themselves can be enjoyed for as little or as long as you like, but each town offers an abundance of additional sights and historic treasures such as castles, churches and monasteries that should not be missed. We recommend planning on either a half or full-day in each town.

⇒ Want help with your South Tyrol trip? See our Itinerary Planning Services

Those seeking a more relaxing stroll through the markets should time their visit during the week. The popularity of South Tyrol’s Christmas Markets means the weekends can become crowded.

No matter when you visit, consider an eco-friendly way by using South Tyrol’s stellar public transportation with the Mobilcard.  Doing so contributes to the markets’ certification as “Green Events”. This means South Tyrol ensures its Christmas markets transpire in the most ecological and sustainable manner possible by using local resources, smart waste management practices and more.

The Christmas markets begin at the end of November and end after the first week of January. Opening times for each market can be found on South Tyrol’s official website.

For an additional helping of South Tyrolean Christmas tradition, be sure to visit during one of the many Krampus runs that take place throughout South Tyrol. These fantastical events will elevate your holiday celebrations to a whole new level of fun and fright. Guaranteed.

Where to Stay During the Holidays

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My Arbor is a winter wonderland unto itself.

What could be more magical during Christmas than waking up to a treetop view of snow-kissed evergreens? My Arbor is a new adults-only wellness resort set on a secluded mountainside high above Brixen. It seemingly floats above the forest inviting a personal connection to the pines, peaks and pistes.

Within minutes from the resort, you can be wandering amid the old-world charm of Brixen’s Christmas market or carving up powder on the slopes. My Arbor offers ski-in and ski-out access to Plose, one of the best places in South Tyrol to experience panoramic views of the Dolomites. Afterward, you can dip into one of its pools or pamper yourself at the hotel’s full-service spa.

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This holiday season, My Arbor is offering an enticing “My Winter Magic” package that includes 3-nights half-board and a ticket to the fantastic “Liora” light and music show at the Bishop’s Palace in Brixen. See more of what is included here.

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Guide to South Tyrol's Christmas Markets
Christkindlmarkts in Sudtirol
Visiting South Tyrol's Christmas Markets

Experience the Magic of Christmas in Brixen

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When a picturesque mountain town offers visitors more than 1,000 years of history, it’s difficult to imagine how it can become even more charming. But leave it to the passionate souls of Brixen to do just that each Christmas season.

Every year the oldest town in South Tyrol elevates holiday enchantment by pairing an authentic Christmas market with a one-of-a-kind light and music show in the courtyard of a 13th-century palace. Both are a must-experience for anyone relishing a feeling of awe that only Christmas morning can rival.

Merriment Beneath the Bell Towers

The Christmas market in Brixen (also known as Bressanone) sprinkles the season’s spirit on practically every cobblestone of the Piazza Duomo. Nearly 40 decorated stalls dot the piazza beneath the soaring bell towers of South Tyrol’s most cherished cathedral: The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Cassiano. This medieval wonder dates to 980 AD and is well worth visiting in addition to the market. 

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The stalls offer everything from handcrafted ornaments to scented delights to bread and Christmas cookies. Tip: Do not walk through this market without trying one of its gingerbread creations.

An antique carousel in the piazza’s center and an ice skating rink next to the Bishop’s Palace fill the atmosphere with a merry-go-round of cheer. Thankfully, you can skip figuring out how to squeeze ice skates into your suitcase. They are available to rent for only a few euros.

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Beyond the dozens of stands selling South Tyrolean handmade goods, the market offers plenty of culinary specialties to tempt your eyes, nose and mouth. Perhaps the best bratwurst we ever had the pleasure of devouring came from Annemarie’s Standl. Of course, after a few mugs of Glühwein, we might say that about anything we consumed.

We also nibbled on fresh krapfen (a doughnut-like pastry), which was made on the spot by a lovely lady who was certainly someone’s Grandma. It tasted as homemade as can be.

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Brixen’s Christmas market is a perfect place to discover the beautiful artisanship of South Tyroleans.

If mulled wine is not your go-to warm-up drink, you can also enjoy steamy apple cider, which given the splendor of South Tyrol’s apples is practically as good as wine in our book.

Whatever you prefer to sip, we recommend ordering a mug and taking a seat at one of the many fire-lit tables dotting the Christmas market. Watching the season swirl around you is a treat in itself.

Watching Historic Walls Come Alive

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After indulging in the charm of Brixen’s Christmas market, dazzle your eyes and ears by taking in the light and music show “NATALIE” at the Hofburg Bishop’s Palace located on the south end of the Piazza Duomo. Created with the internationally acclaimed French light artists Spectaculaires – Allumeurs d’Images, the show whisks you away to a fairy tale world within the regal setting of the palace’s courtyard.

The imaginative visual wizardry of NATALIE is utterly spellbinding. The ancient walls surrounding you in the courtyard burst into life with a kaleidoscope of colors, imagery and song. Suddenly, you’re immersed in a fantasy where the palace lives and breathes.

An actress playing the role of Natalie interacts with the dancing facade singing through a story about a young maid awakening the soul of the Hofburg. She is commanded to throw a great celebration for the residents of Brixen — embarking on a magical adventure filled with a myriad of colorful characters.

Taking photos and videos of the show is not only permitted, but encouraged. Below you’ll find a few of our favorite images from our evening with NATALIE.

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The story is told in a mix of German and Italian, but that did not detract from our enjoyment or ability to understand its essence. The show runs for approximately 20 minutes. Since it takes place in the open air of the courtyard it’s wise to bundle up.

Note: The show’s theme and story can change from year to year.

In previous years, a light and music show called “Soliman’s Dream” was held in the courtyard of the palace. It creatively re-imagined the time when Brixen welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant. In 2022, a new show called “Liora” will be taking place in the palace.

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Experiencing the light and music show in Brixen is a must when visiting South Tyrol during the Christmas season.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman required rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north.

Brixen welcomed the elephant with open arms. Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. The inn where Soliman stayed still stands and welcomes guests to this day. Appropriately named Hotel Elephant, a centuries-old fresco on the oldest part of the hotel’s facade continues to tell the tale of what was certainly an exotic and magical creature to the residents of Brixen at the time.

When to Visit Brixen’s Christmas Market

Brixen’s Christmas market begins in late November and ends the first week of January. Exact dates can change from year to year as well as the show’s theme so be sure to visit the official event calendar before planning a trip. On most days the market opens at 10 am and closes at 7-7:30 pm. The food stands are open an hour longer to ensure enough good cheer is spread to each visitor.

The light and music show takes place throughout the duration of the Christmas market. Shows occur three a day at 5:30 pm, 6:30 pm and 7:30 pm (except December 24th-25th). Prices vary depending on the day but are very reasonable at 3,00€ – 13,20€.

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You could easily spend a full day exploring in and around Brixen. Any lover of history, architecture, art and wine would be a fool not to. But if you’re looking to just enjoy the Brixen Christmas market and the light and music show, then we recommend arriving two hours before showtime.

Restaurant Fink is a delightful place to eat either before or after the show if you still have room after wandering the Christmas Market. Their dessert dishes are divine. The restaurant is conveniently located in Brixen’s old town. It is one of only 25 establishments in South Tyrol to earn the official designation “Südtiroler Gasthaus”. This means Restaurant Fink meets the rigid standards necessary to ensure guests an authentic South Tyrolean dining experience.

Where to Stay

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My Arbor is perched on a forested mountainside near Brixen.

What could be more magical during Christmas than waking up to a treetop view of snow-kissed evergreens? My Arbor is a new adults-only wellness resort set on a peaceful slope high above Brixen. It seemingly floats above the forest inviting a personal connection to the pines, peaks and pistes.

Within minutes from the resort, you can be strolling Brixen’s Christmas market or carving up powder on the slopes. My Arbor offers ski-in and ski-out access to Plose, one of the best places in South Tyrol to experience panoramic views of the Dolomites. Afterward, soak in one of the hotel’s luxurious pools or pamper yourself at its full-service spa.

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This holiday season, My Arbor is offering an enticing “My Winter Magic” package that includes 3-nights half-board and a ticket to the fantastic “Liora” light and music show at the Bishop’s Palace mentioned above. See more of what is included here.

Getting to Brixen – Let Enchantment Be Your Guide

Getting to Brixen is easy. It is located right off Autostrada A22 and is just 30 minutes northeast of Bolzano. We had no problems finding parking near the town center. Winding through its cobblestone alleys to the Piazza Duomo is a delight all by itself.

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All of Brixen is lit up during the Christmas season.

Concerned about driving? Don’t be. Anyone with common sense and a little pre-trip prep can handle it. Check out our post on driving in Italy for practical tips.

Brixen beams with charm no matter the season. But the holidays are an especially enchanting time in this corner of South Tyrol. Wandering the town’s Christmas market offers an endless assortment of enticing traditional South Tyrolean specialties and handmade creations. You’ll come away in awe at the talented craftsmanship of artisans from the region. And not to mention no shortage of treasured gifts for the loved ones in your life.

Terror by Lantern Light: Tempting Krampus in South Tyrol

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St. Nicholas Meeting with Krampus
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Ever encountered a Krampus? Pray you don’t. Discover what it’s like to meet the wild beasts of Christmas lore in South Tyrol, Italy.

In the Alps, Christmas isn’t all pretty bows and ribbons. As we found out, it’s also fangs, horns, fire and fur. Lots and lots of fur.

Beware of the Din in the Dark

Whether they heard, saw, or sensed them first, we could not tell. But the children knew. They knew what darkness summons in December. When night falls fast and the biting cold cuts you to the bone. When winds born of the devil plummet from icy peaks casting a spell of dread unto the land.

Indeed, the children knew well before the rest of us: something wicked this way surely comes.

Krampus children

A clatter of cowbells stirred somewhere in the distance. Three kids next to us gasped, scattering to a wooden fence lining the snow-stomped path. They scuttled onto the bottom rail straining to peer into towering shrouds of timber.

The clamor of bells grew louder. More gasps spread through the little ones. A tangle of fear and excitement tightened around us. And then we spotted them.

First, as long shadows twisting and contorting in the flickering lantern lights. Then as silhouettes with devilish horns that could only have been forged in the fires of hell.

Krampus marching into a Christmas market
Krampus on the march.

Remaining in the path of this looming evil was not wise. We dashed to the fence. No way were we going to be caught in the chaos of Krampus in South Tyrol.

But it did not matter. Soon they were upon us.

We shrank as wolf fangs and serpent tongues flashed out under lantern glow. Switches made of sticks lashed against our legs as they rushed by.

Each blow sent a stinging reminder to remain on the favorable side of St. Nicholas during the Christmas season. The message was duly noted.

Scary Krampus

The parade of Krampus poured into the night until no child was left unscared. We were blown away. Our first Krampus experience at the Christmas Market of Lake Carezza was everything we hoped it would be. At once a terrifying and oddly thrilling spectacle. Afterward, we calmed our pounding hearts with ample cups of Glühwein.

But our time with the beasts of ancient lore was not over. You see, once you’ve survived the Krampus, the thrill of meeting more only grows. So a few nights later we went to Margreid, an ancient wine village in South Tyrol’s Unterland, for the second oldest Krampus celebration in South Tyrol.

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Wherever the Krampus May Roam

Krampus run in Margreid
Scary? You better believe it. The Krampus Run in Margreid is the 2nd oldest in South Tyrol.

We snaked our way into a group of revelers gathering in the village square. The medieval facades surrounding us seemed to close in as we studied the darkness yawning from a damp cobblestone street. There was to be no escape. Like before, the children stared wide-eyed ahead. But the black of the night only stared back. Then it began.

Fire belched into the sky and lights red as blood painted a billowing mist moving toward us. A tribal beat thundered in the air. The crowd began to run. We stood frozen.

Scary Krampus
The scariest Krampus we ever met.

Materializing before us in the gloom was a Krampus the Devil surely spawned himself. Four immense horns rose like a crown from a hulking figure covered in gnarls of fur not even a grizzly bear would dare groom.

We were not about to stick around to see its tortured face. Besides, falling victim to a switch from a Krampus this size was not on either one of our holiday wish lists. We scattered to the side of the street, but like before, it was no use. Another hoard of Krampus found us.

Stings shot up our legs again as a blizzard of switches tore through the street. Clearly, behaving like a saint since our last Krampus encounter was not enough for jolly ole St. Nick.

But we were the lucky ones. A Krampus hunted down a young man nearby. Its switch swatted the lad into an awful dance as he tried to avoid the blows. We didn’t know his offense, but he must have spent the better part of the last year up to no good. Next to him, another Krampus lurched at a little girl who instantly burst into tears — guaranteeing she would never sneak another treat from the cookie jar again.

About an hour after the Krampus began their maniacal march, the roars of fire, jarring cowbells and spellbinding whirls of gothic lighting came to an end. Whatever naughtiness was left in the crowd was to be dealt with another night.

But instead of lurking back to their caverns in the mountains, the Krampus kindly posed for pictures. The chance to win over a Krampus with a smile was not something we were about to miss.

Keeping Up with the Krampus in South Tyrol

The Krampus legend originated in the Germanic regions of the Alps as a tale to encourage children to behave. According to Christian lore, they are demonic creatures, half-man, half-animal. Conquered by St. Nicholas, he demanded their obedience making them part of his legion. Whatever they are, trust us when we tell you, only the mind of Stephen King could conjure creatures more nightmarish.

South Tyrol hosts several Krampus Runs in its cities and mountain villages each year. From Ortisei to Merano to Castelrotto and many more, you can partake in this centuries-old tradition.

Krampus Masks
Authentic Krampus masks are hand-crafted works of art.

The largest Krampus Run in South Tyrol takes place in the village of Toblach (Dobbaccio in Italian) in the heart of Val Pusteria. Nearly 600 Krampus including those from Austria, Germany and Switzerland invade the town square for a night filled with ancestral terror.

Krampus night traditionally occurs on the eve of St. Nicholas Day. However, Krampus events in South Tyrol run from late November through early December. The dates of Krampus Runs can vary from year to year so be sure to confirm the event before arriving.

If you go, do not wear light-colored clothing. The characters behind the Krampus often use black makeup that can rub off on you when tussling with the beasts.

Whether you’re a fan of all things scary or not, participating in a night of Krampus debauchery is a must when visiting South Tyrol during the merriest time of year. The charm of its famous Christmas markets would not be the same without them.

How to Buy an Authentic Krampus Mask

Krampus is as much an art as it is a tradition. Authentic Krampus masks are wood-carved masterpieces chiseled by artisans in the Alps. Their expert attention to detail creates realistic expressions that could frighten the Devil himself.

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Chiseled to chilling perfection in the Alps. Click here to explore adding one to your collection.

Such striking works of art are to be displayed year-round not just donned during the Christmas season. We recommend hanging them in a man cave…not above a little one’s crib!

You can buy an authentic Krampus mask made of aromatic stone pine by visiting the Le Ger Shop on Etsy.

If a mask is not your cup tea, but you still want to add a little harmless mischief into your home during the holidays, consider picking up a Krampus coffee table book.

Award-winning artist, Monte Beauchamp, brings the Krampus tradition to life in a beautifully illustrated book filled with vintage Krampus imagery.

Inspired by German postcards from the 1890s, Krampus: The Devil of Christmas, is a fun and fascinating book to dive into over a cozy cup of hot chocolate or Glühwein.

Vintage Krampus Images
As far back as the 1890s, Germans, Austrians and Tyroleans have sent Krampus greeting cards during the Christmas season.

To give the gift of Krampus, you can also purchase vintage Krampus greeting cards that will be sure to stand out from all the other holiday cards crowding the fridges of your family and friends.

WANT TO EXPERIENCE A KRAMPUS RUN? PIN THIS POST!

Krampus and Santa Claus Meet
Krampus during Christmas season
Krampus Night Parade

Making Glühwein: A How-To Guide to Warming the Soul

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How to Make Gluhwein
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What is the best way to warm your soul on a wintry evening? Embrace the age-old Alpine drink known as Glühwein.

In this festive post, we show you step-by-step how to make Glühwein that will wow you and your guests. You’ll also discover how to drink this cozy libation (also commonly called mulled wine or spiced wine) to fully savor its season-pleasing aromas and flavors.

In a holiday hurry? Jump ahead to the recipe, click here: The Best Glühwein Recipe.

About Glühwein

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Glühwein, a traditional drink of the Alps, is a delicious way to warm up on a cold winter’s night.

Glühwein is an especially delicious treat during the holidays. It wraps its arms around you and gives you a big, warm holiday hug just like that mall Santa did years ago.

But you do not have to wait for the holiday season to enjoy Glühwein. You will cherish it anytime there is a chill in the air whether it be summer, fall, spring or winter.

So where did Glühwein’s heart-warming qualities come from? The ancient Romans are thought to have been the first to concoct Glühwein. As they conquered Europe, they didn’t just leave behind ruins and nifty hairdos. They also left wine’s enduring splendor. Glühwein included.

The hardy folks in the Italian Alps, Austria and Germany took quite a liking to the sweetly spiced goodness of Glühwein. Its warmth and cheer-inducing potency made it a must-have when facing the icy bluster of the mountains.

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How to Drink Glühwein

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You will often see Glühwein served in a cermaic cup, but drinking mulled wine from a crystal glass mug is how its meant to be enjoyed.

Glühwein isn’t a drink that lights you up like a Christmas tree, but even the Ebenezer in your life can’t resist the merriment found in a steamy cup. Need proof? Serve it to him or her in a crystal glass mug. They will savor the spiced wine as if the Spirit of Christmas poured it himself.

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Double-wall insulated crystal glass mugs provide the best way to drink Glühwein.

Our recommendation is to use double-wall insulated crystal glass mugs. These not only perfectly preserve flavor and warmth they also add a classy touch to get-togethers with family and friends.

As we point out in the below directions, Glühwein is served hot and should be sipped slowly just as you would with a fresh cup of coffee. Of course, you do not have to splurge on crystal glassware to sip Gluhwein. A regular mug is a fine alternative.

How to Make Glühwein

Fortunately, you don’t need to raid Santa’s cellar to get your hands on this stuff. Follow these 5 simple steps to make Glühwein right in the comforts of your own home.

In less than 15 minutes, you can ease into your chair by the fire and mull over the wonders of mulled wine.

Step 1 – Find the Right Wine

Finding the best wine to make Gluhwein
To be faithful to the most authentic Glühwein recipe, look for red wines from the Alpine regions of Europe.

Visit your local wine shop and pick up a bottle of red wine. Opinions vary on the best type with some opting for full-bodied reds like Malbec to others proclaiming bright and fruity reds like Pinot Noir work best.

We’re hopeless mountain lovers and also like to try to recreate authentic dishes. Therefore, we use Alpine reds, such as Lagrein or Vernatsch, from South Tyrol (commonly labeled as Alto Adige or Südtirol). Not only do these wines make Glühwein fit for a king, but they also pair exceptionally well with the Alps’ most hearty dishes. Note: These wines can be a bit harder to find depending on where you live so do not hesitate to use your favorite red if necessary.

Step 2 – Gather Your Sweets

Make sure you have the following Glühwein ingredients on hand at home: sugar, cinnamon sticks, cloves and oranges. Yes, oranges.

Step 3 – Prepare the Ingredients

Grab a pot and prep the ingredients that you will be adding to it.

Traditional Glühwein requires ½ cinnamon stick, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 5 cloves and the peel of an orange (¼ to ½ of orange).

Step 4 – Make Stove Top Magic

Pour the entire bottle of wine into the pot (it’s okay to lick the cork), add the cinnamon stick, sugar, cloves and orange peel. Bring the wine to nearly a boil.

Note: For Santa’s sake, do not boil the wine! Doing so will reduce the alcohol content thus the amount of fun you’ll have by equal measure.

Step 5 – Begin Your Merry Journey

Remove the cinnamon stick and cloves with a fine strainer. Pour this conjuring of Christmas magic into cups and serve immediately.

Tasting Gluhwein
Tasting Glühwein as you make it is half the fun.

Note: You can add rum or brandy to the Glühwein if you want to crank up the festiveness at your holiday gathering. But if sweetness is your greatest holiday weakness, honey is fine to add as well.

❄️ Bonus Step – Live Like Santa isn’t Watching

Repeat steps 1-5 as often as needed. Life is too short to deny the joy-inducing magic of Glühwein.

Feeling Fine with Glühwein

Enjoying Glühwein at home is an enticing way to take the chill out of any winter night. But more importantly, be sure to enjoy a cup or three while visiting a Christmas market. Drinking anything else would no doubt upset the Krampus lurking in the corner. Not a wise move.

If you want us to pick out a market for you, we highly recommend the largest Christmas market in Italy. You will love every feasting moment.

By the way, if the thought of laboring in the kitchen to make another holiday treat sucks the season right out of you…don’t worry. Glühwein can be purchased at your local wine shop. Just warm it up and serve the gift that will keep on giving.

The Best Glühwein recipe – tap to save!

How to Make & Drink Gluhwein

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