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Christmas Market

Enthroned in Romance: Visiting the Epic Castel Rametz

By Kate & Vin 19 Comments

Castel Rametz in Merano, Italy
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Romantically enthroned atop a vine-drenched hill beneath summits ever lanced by snow, the historic wine estate of Castel Rametz steals your heart first then your lips.

IF A VISIT TO MERANO is on your South Tyrol travel wish list, do your history-loving soul a favor and plan to visit Castel Rametz. This wonder from the 13th century embodies the magic that happens when Alpine and Mediterranean climates conspire with medieval tradition.

Perched above Merano in the luxuriant district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz was etched on our must-see list ever since first admiring its poetic pose from the mountainside of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

When we discovered the estate hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit. The chance to turn several shades of merry before even setting foot in the traditional Christmas market of Merano was too enticing to pass up.

A Hillside Haunt Steeped in History

While Castel Rametz has seen rulers come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful owner to its throne. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of wine soon followed.

Antique photo of Castel Rametz
Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate.  These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”.  Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol. 

Courting Christmas Cheer

We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of man’s best friend.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lied beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its hallowed stones.

Castel Rametz Courtyard Door
Christmas market at Castel Rametz
Castel Rametz Mercatino
The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with exquisite holiday dazzle. Classy decor and a roaring fire made it a sanctuary for the season. Looking around, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

The old-world ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

A stand in the courtyard offered traditional delicacies to delight in while enjoying the smokey crackle of logs aflame. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to browse the Christmas market within the castle.

Inside, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar
The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is a marvel to browse.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The old-world character of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

Amid the glow of flickering flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow. In a nearby stone nook, a carefully carved nativity scene caught our eye. We studied its graceful beauty beneath lights casting the deep blue hues of a winter’s night sky.

Gift of the Vines – Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We could have remained enveloped in the ambiance of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wines that makes us want to uncork one. Embarking on a wine tasting next in Castel Rametz’s enoteca seemed wildly appropriate as our next stop.

We climbed the cellar stairs parking ourselves on two seats at the wine tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz
The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to enjoy a remarkable tasting.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Whether you're a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

Castel Rametz Wine Tasting
Castel Rametz Winery
Castel Rametz Cesuret Chardonnay

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to uncork at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website. 

A wayside shrine in the vineyards of Castel Rametz
The guardian of Castel Rametz watches vigilantly from the foot of the castle’s shrine.

Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also enjoy a meal here.

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Castel Rametz in Merano

Filed Under: Alto Adige Wines, South Tyrol Castles & Fortresses, South Tyrol Christmas Markets Tagged With: Alto Adige Wines, Castel Rametz, Christmas Market, South Tyrol Historic Sights, South Tyrol Winery

Italy Adorned in Light: Discovering the Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 11 Comments

Christmas Market in Merano, ItalyThrone & Vine Icon

If only Ebenezer Scrooge spent one holiday moment in South Tyrol, Italy, the Ghosts of Christmas would have surely found another wretched soul to haunt. The Christmas markets of South Tyrol conjure a merry spirit that never leaves your heart.

Set amidst some of the most spectacular mountain backdrops in the world, South Tyrol’s Christmas markets beam with Alpine tidings and charm. Especially when the evergreen boughs bend beneath the first kiss of snow and the summits gleam silver under the winter moonlight.

Indeed, such storybook sights could make anyone spontaneously burst into carol.

But even if you’re not lucky enough to witness the sparkle of fresh-fallen mountain snow while in South Tyrol, you will still glisten with glee strolling its Christmas markets. They alight even the Scroogiest amongst us with holiday cheer.

Falling snow at the Merano Christmas Market
Few sights enchant like fresh-fallen snow on Italy’s Christmas markets.

From the festively decorated market stalls crafted of mountain pine to the tempting aromas of South Tyrolean pastries tickling your nose to the traditional handicrafts born deep in the Dolomites, you will find no place embodies the magic of Christmas quite like the Italian Alps.

In this post, we take you on a sweeping journey through South Tyrol’s most popular markets. Not only will you get a peek into their individual charms, but you’ll also discover our advice on how to enjoy them in person.

Merano Christmas Market

Merano possesses what we consider to be the most enchanting walk in Italy so it’s no surprise then this wander-friendly town straddling the roaring Passer River hosts a Christmas market of equal enchantment. Many of Merano’s 70+ market stalls run along the riverfront promenade, but you will find Christmas splendor sprinkled throughout the town when you visit.

Nestled in the Piazza della Rena is the Historic Christmas Village of Merano, which celebrates age-old Christmas traditions and specialties. After walking the procession of stalls on the promenade, the village makes a cozy place to huddle next to a fire with a warm cup of Glühwein and listen to the holiday melodies radiating from the nearby stage.

Across the river, in the Piazza Terme you can swirl the night away on an outdoor ice-skating rink and dine inside gigantic Christmas bulb ornaments. For a panoramic view of all of Merano’s holiday dazzle, be sure to relax by the fire on the rooftop of the Forst beer garden.

Walking the Christmas Market in Merano, Italy

Christmas by Hotel Terme

Buying Pretzels at Merano's Christmas Market

Glass Christmas Ornaments in Italy

Sampling Christmas cookies in Merano

Handmade Specialties for Sale at Merano Christmas Market

Sterzing Christmas Market

As the smallest of the big markets in South Tyrol, the Sterzing Christmas market (also known as Vipiteno) packs a bundle of charm on every square inch of the town’s Piazza Città. Walking through it is like stepping into a holiday snowglobe.

This town seemingly lost in the ages of thrones and stone has often been touted as one the “most beautiful villages in Italy”. It’s easy to see why any time of year, but a visit during the Christmas season makes it a truly undeniable claim.

The 15th-century Zwölferturm (Tower of the Twelve) clock tower shimmers above the Christmas market like a medieval beacon for St. Nicholas. Romantic two-story houses with massive bay windows adorned in Christmas decor hide their centuries of wear behind colorful facades. Their vivid hues enfold the market’s festive atmosphere.

Sterzing Christmas Market

Carriage ridge in Sterzing

Christmas decor at the Christmas Market in Sterzing

Handmade Reindeer Decor from Italy

Italian Christmas Market Artisan

Sterzing in South Tyrol, Italy
The “Tower of the Twelve” greets you at the entrance of the Sterzing Christmas market.

After browsing the stalls and indulging in a warm bowl of Speckknödelsuppe, savor more of Sterzing’s history by visiting the Church of the Holy Spirit just beyond the market.

For an additional helping of South Tyrolean Christmas tradition, be sure to visit during one of the many Krampus runs that take place throughout South Tyrol.

Once inside this Gothic marvel from 1399, the bustle of the market recedes into silence allowing you to admire the surprising number of well-preserved frescoes gracing its ancient walls. They are among the most enthralling in South Tyrol.

Frescoes in the Church of the Holy Spirit in Sterzing, Italy
The frescoes of the Church of the Holy Spirit in Sterzing tell a remarkable story well worth studying.

Brixen Christmas Market

Celebrating the true essence of Christmas in Brixen could have said to begun nearly 500 years ago when the town’s residents welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman no doubt needed rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north. Brixen welcomed him with open arms.

Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. Those two weeks left quite an impression on the town.

In addition to its wonderous Christmas market, held in the historic Piazza Duomo under guard of the oldest cathedral in northern Italy, Brixen celebrates Soliman’s journey to this day. During the holiday season, you can be whisked away to a fantasy world through a production called “Soliman’s Dream”. Taking place in the courtyard of the 13th-century Bishop’s Palace (Hofburg), the show is a must-see spectacle. 

Like Merano, Brixen’s market also includes an outdoor ice-skating rink. For a graceful outing on the ice, we recommend taking a spin before partaking in the joys of Glühwein.

Christmas Market in Brixen, Italy

Italy Christmas Market Woodcarvings

A lady making krapfen in Brixen

Brixen Christmas Market Wizards

Soliman's Dream in Brixen

Christmas Tree in Brixen

Bolzano Christmas Market

When a town holds a man lost in a tomb of glacial ice for 5,300 years, you better believe they know how to revel in the blessings of winter. Bolzano boasts the largest Christmas market in Italy…and the most stunning Christmas tree we have ever laid eyes on.

Centered around the soulful marble statue of medieval Minnesinger Walther von der Vogelweide in the Waltherplatz, Bolzano’s market pulsates day and night with patrons.  Those keen on finding novel Christmas gifts can peruse 80+ stalls selling everything from South Tyrolean cheeses to felt slippers to Alpine wellness oils, lotions and herbs culled from the pines and prairies of the Dolomites.

For those more keen on amplifying their Christmas spirit than pursuing stocking stuffers, several stands around the square begift generous pours of Glühwein and other seasonal libations. The lively atmosphere of Bolzano’s Christmas market makes it a joy to simply sip by a glowing fire and socialize with those around you.

After filling up on the tidings of Bolzano’s traditional market, experience Christmas like the locals by venturing beyond the Waltherplatz to its boutique Christmas markets tucked in the Piazza Municipio, Piazza del Grano and in the courtyard of Palazzo Campofranco.

Bolzano, Italy Christmas Market

Ornaments hanging from Christmas tree in Bolzano

An Italian woodcarver at the Bolzano Christmas Market

Woodcarvings on display at the Christmas Market in Bolzano, Italy

Candles at the Christmas Market in Bozen, Italy

Bolzano Cathedral during the Christmas Market
The largest Gothic church in South Tyrol looms ancient over Italy’s most popular Christmas market.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Mountains of Merry: The Boutique Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

How to Visit Italy’s Christmas Markets

If you plan to be in South Tyrol during the Christmas season, it pays to make time to visit all of these markets. The markets themselves can be enjoyed for as little or as long as you like, but each town offers an abundance of additional sights and historic treasures such as castles, churches and monasteries that should not be missed. We recommend planning on either a half or full-day in each town.

Those seeking a more relaxing stroll through the markets should time their visit during the week. The popularity of South Tyrol’s Christmas Markets means the weekends can become crowded.

South Tyrol Christmas MarketsNo matter when you visit, consider an eco-friendly way by using South Tyrol’s stellar public transportation with the Mobilcard.  Doing so contributes to the markets’ certification as a “Green Event”. This means South Tyrol ensures its Christmas markets transpire in the most ecological and sustainable manner possible by using local resources, smart waste management practices and more.

The Christmas markets begin at the end of November and end after the first week of January. Opening times for each market can be found on South Tyrol’s official website.

For an additional helping of South Tyrolean Christmas tradition, be sure to visit during one of the many Krampus runs that take place throughout South Tyrol. These fantastical events will elevate your holiday celebrations to a whole new level of fun and fright. Guaranteed.

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Italian Christmas Markets

Filed Under: South Tyrol Christmas Markets, South Tyrol Festivals & Events Tagged With: Christmas Market

Mountains of Merry: The Boutique Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 18 Comments

Latemar Dolomites during Advent

iconIf you’re visiting South Tyrol during the season of tinsel and tidings, chances are the traditional Christmas markets of Bolzano, Merano, Brixen and Sterzing are on your holiday wish list.

But as lovely as each of those markets are, it pays to also stroll the several boutique Christmas markets decorating South Tyrol. Taking time to casually drift through the “off-the-beaten” path Christmas markets imparts a gift of memories you will cherish long after the season ends.

In this post, we shine a bright holiday light on three boutique markets you should not miss.

Christmas by Candlelight at Lake Carezza

Lago di Carezza Nativity Scene

When a remote Alpine lake tells of a wizard long ago shattering a rainbow into its pristine waters, there may be no better place for an event as magical as a Christmas market. The Christmas Market at Lake Carezza takes place in the ancient forest surrounding its fabled shore. Stalls shaped like wooden lanterns line a trail that winds from one side of the lake to the other.

If you’re longing to experience a Christmas market within a winter wonderland, Lake Carezza can almost guarantee it. Thanks to the higher altitude it is one of the most picturesque markets.

The market sits within the Dolomites with the Latemar and Rosengarten massifs looming as backdrops. When we wandered the market, countless evergreen boughs held fresh puffs of snow and the mountains wore icy crowns.

Christmas Market at Lake Carezza

Lago di Carezza Christmas Ornaments

Carezza Christmas Market Trail

For anyone worried about enduring a wintry chill, wood stoves dot the market offering comfort and the enchanting aroma of a crackling wood fire. Standing over flames in the mountains and listening to Christmas tunes from a trio of trumpets will leave you merry long after you have taken your last sip of Glühwein

When we discovered a Christmas market is held each year within its walls we turned several shades of merry.

Beyond enjoying freshly-baked sweets and delicious drinks sold at the stalls, you can also find a variety of handmade crafts that harken back to a simpler time. Visiting in the evening is especially enchanting as the market is lit by candle lanterns that cast a soft glow all along the trail.

Carezza in the Dolomites

When to Go

We timed our visit to the market when the Krampus was set loose upon the trail. This was our first encounter with the less-than-jolly beasts of lore and we were blown away by the experience.

If you can make it during the weekend that lures the Krampus out of their caves, we highly recommend it. To learn more about the Krampus tradition, be sure to read about our Krampus encounter in Margreid.

Krampus at Lago di Carezza Christmas Market
Candle lanterns guide you through the Christmas market at Lake Carezza…as well as the Krampus.

The Lake Carezza Christmas market occurs each weekend in December from 10 am to 8 pm. It is just 20 minutes from Bolzano by car. For specific details on the event go to the official website for Eggental Valley, which is where Lake Carezza is located.

A Christmas Forest at FORST Brewery

Forst Christmas ForestSince 1857, the Forst brewery in Algund has been spreading cheer well beyond the holiday season. One cannot trek in South Tyrol at any time of year without encountering an opportunity to relax with a refreshing Forst beer at a mountain hut. It’s an invitation we always accept.

But the brewery’s cheerful tidings rise to new heights each year with the opening of its enchanted Christmas Forest (Forster Weihnactswald / Foresta Natalizia). Dining and drinking at FORST is always a joy, however, our first visit to the Christmas Forest was one of the most relaxing evenings of the holidays.

The Christmas Forest at FORST conjures a cozy atmosphere that the traditional Christmas markets simply cannot match.

Out of all of the Christmas markets in South Tyrol, it is the one we would return to multiple times during the season. Admiring the tasteful holiday splendor FORST adorns throughout the brewery is worth the trip alone.

Forst Christmas Ornament

Forst Beer at the Christmas Forest in Algund

Window shopping at Forst Brewery

Forst Beer Lounge
The massive copper vats in the FORST Beer Lounge shimmer in the warm glow of Christmas. A perfect place to sit and relax with a pint.

The Christmas Forest at FORST conjures a cozy atmosphere that the traditional Christmas markets simply cannot match.

Aglow with crackling fires throughout, the Christmas Forest includes a spectacular ice-skating rink softly lit by sparkling lights, a bakery offering culinary wonders such as traditional South Tyrolean Zelten (Christmas Cake), specialty stalls brimming with local crafts and of course a festive beer garden where liters upon liters of FORST beer swirl with holiday magic beneath countless ornaments.

Each year, FORST also opens its gourmet restaurant called “Felsenkeller” for the duration of the market. Guests enjoy a magnificent feast in an ancient stone cellar furnished with exquisite decor including the largest Christmas ball in the world. The dining experience at Felsenkeller is what Christmas dreams are made of.

When to Go

The FORST Christmas Forest begins enchanting holiday revelers from November 20 through January 6. It is open from 10 am to midnight.

We recommend visiting the Christmas Forest after you have strolled the traditional Christmas market in Merano. FORST is located less than 10 minutes away.

Forst Christmas TreeIn addition to the market festivities, guided tours of the brewery are also available each day. If you wish to experience the Felsenkeller gourmet restaurant, reservations must be made in advance at felsenkeller@forst.it.

For those not wanting to splurge on a gourmet feast, you can also dine in the brewery’s traditional restaurant, Bräustüberl Forst, which is delicious and adorned with ornate woodwork that fosters a heart-warming ambiance.

Medieval Merriment at Castle Tirol

Tirol Castle Christmas Market

What was it like to celebrate Christmas at a time when lands were ruled from thrones and candles were for more than setting the mood? The Christmas market at Castle Tirol gives revelers a charming glimpse.

Arguably the most celebrated castle in South Tyrol, Castle Tirol makes one’s jaw drop long before reaching its gates. The castle’s imposing presence atop a craggy glacial moraine in Dorf Tirol leaves us spellbound every time we lay eyes on it. Without a doubt, it is among the top medieval sights in all of Europe. Built in the 1100s, Castle Tirol was home to the Counts of Tyrol who wielded enough power to name an entire region.

We reached the castle by parking in a public lot located in Dorf Tirol. From here, we walked along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This paved path edges along a deep ravine.

Beyond are splendid views of tumbling vineyards and the Texel mountain group of the Oetztal Alps. In addition to fawning over Castle Tirol during the walk, plenty of vantage points reveal the stunning Brunnenburg Castle, which sits on a crag below the stronghold.

Brunnenburg Castle during the Christmas Season

Castle Tirol Tunnel
How is this for old-world charm? A centuries-old tunnel leads to Castle Tirol’s Christmas market.

A 260-foot stone-walled tunnel carved out in the 17th century leads visitors through the final stretch to the castle. The entire trek takes roughly 20-30 minutes, but if you’re like us, you’ll linger longer. The path ascends easily, but if you prefer to roll your way to Castle Tirol, a horse-drawn carriage ride is available.

The market entices with food and refreshment stands within the castle’s courtyard. While we were there a gentleman roasted chestnuts on the spot and a brass band filled the air with notes of cheer. We, in turn, filled ourselves with cheer by sipping on mulled wine. Afterward, we wandered inside the castle to browse crafts and other South Tyrolean specialties for sales. A woodcarver wowed us with his artisanship on the lathe at one of the exhibits.

Man warming his hands over fire at Castle Tirol Christmas MarketUpon finishing touring the market we ventured into the castle’s Hall of Knights. The portal leading to the chapel captivated us with remarkable Romanesque marble sculptures from the 12th century. Studying the faces and figures in the marble makes a trip to the castle worth it on their own.

Meandering around the chapel is a moving experience as the haunting expressions of faded frescoes follows your every step. A life-size crucifixion scene looms overhead. Erected in 1330, it reveals the emotions of Jesus, Mary and John with striking realism. On the wall across the chapel is the first known depiction of the South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

Christmas Music at Castle Tirol

Woodworker Castle Tirol

Tirol Castle Chapel Window

Castle Tirol Chapel

When to Go

The Castle Tirol Christmas market only occurs the first two weekends in December. It takes place from 10 am to 7 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Throughout each day different activities take place and a variety of music groups entertain in the courtyard.

READ MORE: Castle Tirol – Ancient Majesty Chiseled from a Mountain

For a full list of the special events scheduled be sure to review the event program by going to the official tourist site for Dorf Tirol. 

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The Boutique Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

Filed Under: South Tyrol Christmas Markets, South Tyrol Festivals & Events Tagged With: Castel Rametz, Castle Tirol, Christmas Market, Lake Carezza

Experiencing the Magic of Christmas in Brixen

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

Brixen Christmas Market in South Tyrol / Sudtirol

iconWhen a picturesque mountain town offers visitors more than 1,000 years of history, it’s difficult to imagine how it can become even more charming each year. But leave it to the passionate souls of Brixen (also known as Bressanone) to accomplish just that.

Each holiday season, this medieval gem near the Dolomites elevates enchantment through an authentic Christmas market paired with a one-of-a-kind light and music show within the 13th-century courtyard of the Hofburg, its famous Bishop’s Palace. Both are a must-experience for anyone relishing a feeling of awe that only Christmas morning can rival.

Merriment Beneath the Bell Towers’ Light

Brixen Christmas TreeBrixen’s Christmas market sprinkles the season’s spirit on practically every cobblestone of the Piazza Duomo. Nearly 40 decorated stalls dot the piazza beneath the soaring bell towers of South Tyrol’s most cherished cathedral. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Cassiano was first erected in 980. 

The stalls offer everything from handcrafted ornaments to scented delights to bread and Christmas cookies. Do not walk through this market without trying one of its gingerbread creations.

An antique carousel in the piazza’s center and an ice skating rink next to the Bishop’s Palace fills the atmosphere with spinning cheer. Thankfully, you can skip figuring out how to squeeze ice skates into your suitcase. They are available to rent for only a few euros.

Brixen Christmas Stall

Bressanone Christmas Market Stall
Thanks to an airline losing our luggage, we found the most comfortable socks in the world at the Brixen Christmas market!

Brixen Christmas market decor
Brixen’s Christmas market is a perfect place to discover the beautiful artisanship of South Tyroleans.

Beyond the dozens of stands selling South Tyrolean handmade goods, the market offers plenty of culinary specialties to tempt your eyes, nose and mouth. Perhaps the best bratwurst we ever had the pleasure of devouring came from Annemarie’s Standl. After finishing one we had to go back for another. We also nibbled on fresh krapfen, which was made on the spot by a lovely lady who was certainly someone’s Grandma. 

The imaginative visual wizardry of NATALIE is utterly spellbinding.

Our night at the Brixen Christmas market was a bit on the nippy side so we warmed up with a couple of cups Glühwein…not that we needed an excuse to sip wine. If wine is not your go-to warm-up drink, you can also enjoy warm apple cider, which given the splendor of South Tyrol’s apples is practically as good as wine in our book. You can also cozy up to plenty of tables with a fire if the merry warmth found in a cup does not do the trick.

Making Krapfen at the Brixen Christmas Market
A lady rolling the Christmas spirit into tasty treats known as krapfen.

Brixen Christmas Market Carousel

Watching Ancient Walls Burst into Life

After indulging in the charm of Brixen’s Christmas market, dazzle your eyes and ears by taking in the light and music show “NATALIE” at the Bishop’s Palace located on the south end of the Piazza Duomo. Created with the internationally acclaimed French light artists Spectaculaires – Allumeurs d’Images, the show whisks you away to a fairy tale world within the regal setting of the palace’s courtyard.

The imaginative visual wizardry of NATALIE is utterly spellbinding. The ancient walls surrounding you in the courtyard burst into life with a kaleidoscope of colors, imagery and song. Suddenly, you’re immersed in a fantasy where the palace lives and breathes.

An actress playing the role of Natalie interacts with the dancing facade singing through a story about a young maid awakening the soul of the Hofburg. She is commanded to throw a great celebration for the residents of Brixen — embarking on a magical adventure filled with a myriad of colorful characters.

Taking photos and video of the show is not only permitted, but encouraged. Below you’ll find a few of our favorite images from our evening with NATALIE.

Natalie Light Music Show Brixen

Natalie Light Musical Show in Bressanone

Natalie Show in Brixen

Natalie Light Musical Show at Hofburg Palace
Taking in the light and music show, NATALIE, is a must when visiting South Tyrol during the Christmas season.

The story is told in a mix of German an Italian, but that did not detract from our enjoyment or ability to understand its essence. The show runs approximately 20 minutes. Since it takes place in the open-air of the courtyard it’s wise to bundle up.

This season marks the first year for NATALIE. In previous years, a light and music show called “Soliman’s Dream” was held in the courtyard of the palace. It creatively re-imagined the time when Brixen welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman required rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north.

Brixen welcomed the elephant with open arms. Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. The inn where Soliman stayed still stands and welcomes guests to this day. Appropriately named Hotel Elephant, a centuries-old fresco on the oldest part of the hotel’s facade continues to tell the tale of what was certainly an exotic and magical creature to the residents of Brixen at the time.

When to Visit Brixen’s Christmas Market

Brixen’s Christmas market begins in late November and ends the first week of January. Exact dates can change year to year so be sure to visit the official event schedule before planning a trip. On most days the market opens at 10 am and closes at 7-7:30 pm. The food stands are open an hour longer to ensure enough good cheer is spread to each visitor.

NATALIE takes place through the duration of the Christmas market. Shows occur three a day at 5:30 pm, 6:30 pm and 7:30 pm (except December 24th-25th). Prices vary depending on the day, but are very reasonable at € 7-€10 for adults and € 1-€6 for children.

You could easily spend a full day exploring in and around Brixen. Any lover of history, architecture, art and wine would be a fool not to. But if you’re looking to just enjoy the Brixen Christmas market and NATALIE, then we recommend arriving two hours before your show.

Dessert at Restaurant Fink
We attempted to capture a shot of our dessert at Restaurant Fink prior to diving in, but it evaded us. As we learned, sweets at this South Tyrolean treasure have a tendency to swiftly disappear.

Restaurant Fink is a delightful place to eat either before or after the show if you still have room after wandering the Christmas Market. Their dessert dishes are divine. The restaurant is conveniently located in Brixen’s old town. It is one of only 25 establishments in South Tyrol to earn the official designation “Südtiroler Gasthaus”. This means Restaurant Fink meets the rigid standards necessary to ensure guests an authentic South Tyrolean dining experience.

Getting to Brixen – Let Enchantment be Your Guide

Alley in Brixen, ItalyGetting to Brixen is easy. It is located right off Autostrada A22 and is just 30 minutes northeast of Bolzano. We had no problems finding parking near the town center. Winding through its cobblestone alleys to the Piazza Duomo is a delight all by itself.

Concerned about driving? Don’t be. Anyone with common sense and a little pre-trip prep can handle it. Check out our post on driving in Italy for practical tips.

Brixen beams with charm no matter the season. But the holidays are an especially enchanting time in this corner of South Tyrol. Wandering the town’s Christmas market offers an endless assortment of enticing traditional South Tyrolean specialties and handmade creations. You’ll come away in awe at the talented craftsmanship of artisans from the region. And not to mention no shortage of treasured gifts for the loved ones in your life.

TAP TO SAVE FOR LATER

Brixen / Bressanone Christmas Market

Filed Under: South Tyrol Christmas Markets, South Tyrol Festivals & Events Tagged With: Bressanone, Brixen, Christmas Market, Natalie

Terror by Lantern Light: Tempting Krampus in South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 22 Comments

St. Nicholas Meeting with Krampus
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Whether they heard, saw or sensed them first, we could not tell. But the children knew.

They knew what the descending darkness summons in December. When night falls fast and the biting cold hits you like a fist. When the winds of the Alps cast a spell of dread unto the land.

Indeed, the children knew well before the rest of us: something wicked this way surely comes.

Beware of the Din in the Dark

A clatter of cowbells stirred somewhere in the distance. Three kids next to us gasped, scattering to a wooden fence lining the snow-stomped path. They scuttled onto the bottom rail straining to peer into towering shrouds of timber.

Girl Watching for Krampus
Spotting Krampus at Lake Carezza
A child leans into a dark forest of the Alps seeking the first signs of Krampus.

The clamor of bells grew louder. More gasps spread through the little ones. A tangle of fear and excitement tightened around us. And then we spotted them.

First, as long shadows twisting and contorting in the flickering lantern lights. Then as silhouettes with devilish horns that could only have been forged in the fires of hell.

A tribal beat thundered in the air. The crowd began to run. We stood frozen.

Remaining in the path of this looming evil was not wise. We dashed to the fence. No way were we going to be caught in the chaos of Krampus in South Tyrol.

But it did not matter. Soon they were upon us.

We shrank as wolf fangs and serpent tongues flashed out under lantern glow. Switches made of sticks lashed against our legs as they rushed by. Each blow sent a stinging reminder to remain on the favorable side of St. Nicholas during the Christmas season. The message was duly noted.

Krampus run at Lago di Carezza
Krampus at Lake Carezza
Krampus night

The parade of Krampus poured into the night until no child was left unscared. We were blown away. Our first Krampus experience at the Christmas Market of Lake Carezza was everything we hoped it would be. At once a terrifying and oddly thrilling spectacle. Afterward, we calmed our pounding hearts with ample cups of Glühwein.

But our time with the beasts of ancient lore was not over. You see, once you’ve survived the Krampus, the thrill of meeting more only grows. So a few nights later we went to Margreid, an ancient wine village in South Tyrol’s Unterland, for the second oldest Krampus celebration in South Tyrol.

Wherever the Krampus May Roam

We snaked our way into a group of revelers gathering in the village square. The medieval facades surrounding us seemed to close in as we studied the darkness yawning from a damp cobblestone street. There was to be no escape. Like before, the children stared wide-eyed ahead. But the black of the night only stared back. Then it began.

participating in a night of Krampus debauchery is a must when visiting South Tyrol during the most merry time of year.

Fire belched into the sky and lights red as blood painted a billowing mist moving toward us. A tribal beat thundered in the air. The crowd began to run. We stood frozen.

Materializing before us in the gloom was a Krampus the Devil surely spawned himself. Four immense horns rose like a crown from a hulking figure covered in gnarls of fur not even a grizzly bear would dare groom.

Krampus run in Margreid
 Krampus Run in Margreid, Italy
The Krampus Run in Margreid is the 2nd oldest in South Tyrol.

We were not about to stick around to see its tortured face. Besides, falling victim to a switch from a Krampus this size was not on either one of our holiday wish lists. We scattered to the side of the street, but like before, it was no use. Another hoard of Krampus found us.

Stings shot up our legs again as a blizzard of switches tore through the street. Clearly, behaving like a saint since our last Krampus encounter was not enough for jolly ole St. Nick.

But we were the lucky ones. A Krampus hunted down a young man nearby. Its switch swatted the lad into an awful dance as he tried to avoid the blows. We didn’t know his offense, but he must have spent the better part of the last year up to no good. Next to him, another Krampus lurched at a little girl who instantly burst into tears — guaranteeing she would never sneak another treat from the cookie jar again.

Krampus run in South Tyrol, Italy
The world's scariest Krampus
Krampus night in Margreid
Krampus in South Tyrol, Italy

About an hour after the Krampus began their maniacal march, the roars of fire, jarring cowbells and spellbinding whirls of gothic lighting came to an end. Whatever naughtiness was left in the crowd was to be dealt with another night.

But instead of lurking back to their caverns in the mountains, the Krampus kindly posed for pictures. The chance to win over a Krampus with a smile was not something we were about to miss.

Reka and Kate with Krampus
Our friend Reka taming a Krampus with Kate.
Vin with a Krampus
Vin challenging a Krampus to an arm wrestle.

Keeping Up with the Krampus in South Tyrol

The Krampus legend originated in the Germanic regions of the Alps as a tale to encourage children to behave. According to Christian lore, they are demonic creatures, half-man, half-animal. Conquered by St. Nicholas, he demanded their obedience making them part of his legion. Whatever they are, trust us when we tell you, only the mind of Stephen King could conjure creatures more nightmarish.

South Tyrol hosts several Krampus Runs in its cities and mountain villages each year. From Ortisei to Merano to Castelrotto and many more, you can partake in this centuries-old tradition.

The largest Krampus Run in South Tyrol takes place in the village of Toblach (Dobbaccio in Italian) in the heart of Val Pusteria. Nearly 600 Krampus including those from Austria, Germany and Switzerland invade the town square for a night filled with ancestral terror.

Krampus night traditionally occurs on the eve of St. Nicholas Day. However, Krampus events in South Tyrol run from late November through early December. The dates of Krampus run can vary from year to year so be sure to confirm the event before arriving.

If you go, do not wear light-colored clothing. The characters behind the Krampus often use black makeup that can rub off on you when tussling with the beasts.

Whether you’re a fan of all things scary or not, participating in a night of Krampus debauchery is a must when visiting South Tyrol during the merriest time of year. The charm of its famous Christmas markets would not be the same without them.

How to Buy an Authentic Krampus Mask

Krampus Masks

Krampus is as much an art as it is a tradition. Authentic Krampus masks are wood-carved masterpieces chiseled by artisans in the Alps. Their expert attention to detail creates realistic expressions that could frighten the Devil himself.

Authentic Krampus masks are chiseled to chilling perfection in the Alps. Click here to explore adding one to your collection.

Such striking works of art are to be displayed year round not just donned during the Christmas season. We recommend hanging them in a man cave…not above a little one’s crib!

You can buy an authentic Krampus mask made of aromatic stone pine by visiting the Le Ger Shop on Etsy.

If a mask is not your cup tea, but you still want to adda little harmless mischief into your home during the holidays, consider picking up a Krampus coffee table book.

Award-winning artist, Monte Beauchamp, brings the Krampus tradition to life in a beautifully illustrated book filled with vintage Krampus imagery.

Inspired by German postcards from the 1890s, Krampus: The Devil of Christmas, is a fun and fascinating book to dive into over a cozy cup of hot chocolate or Glühwein.

Vintage Krampus Images
As far back as the 1890s, Germans, Austrians and Tyroleans have sent Krampus greeting cards during Christmas time.

To give the gift of Krampus, you can also purchase vintage Krampus greeting cards that will be sure to stand out from all the other holiday cards crowding the fridges of your family and friends.

WANT TO EXPERIENCE A KRAMPUS RUN? PIN THIS POST!

Krampus

Filed Under: South Tyrol Christmas Markets Tagged With: Christmas Market, Krampus, Lake Carezza, Margreid

Making Glühwein: A How-To Guide to Warming the Soul

By Kate & Vin 25 Comments

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What is the best way to warm your soul on a wintry evening? Embrace the age-old Alpine drink known as Glühwein.

In this festive post, we show you step-by-step how to make Glühwein that wows you and your guests. In addition, you’ll discover the how to drink this cozy libation (also commonly called mulled wine or spiced wine) to fully savor its aromas and flavors.

In a holiday hurry? Jump ahead to the recipe, click here: The Best Glühwein Recipe.

About Glühwein

Glühwein is an especially delicious treat during the holidays. It wraps its arms around you and gives you a big, warm holiday hug just like that mall Santa did years ago.

Steps to Make Gluhwein

But you do not have to wait for the holiday season to enjoy Glühwein. You will cherish it anytime there is a chill in the air whether it be summer, fall, spring or winter.

So where did Glühwein’s heart-warming qualities come from? The ancient Romans are thought to have been the first to concoct Glühwein. As they conquered Europe, they didn’t just leave behind ruins and nifty hairdos. They also left wine’s enduring splendor. Glühwein included.

The hardy folks in the Alps of South Tyrol, Austria and Germany took quite a liking to the sweetly spiced goodness of Glühwein. Its warmth and cheer-inducing potency made it a must-have when facing the icy bluster of the mountains.

How to Drink Glühwein

Drinking Gluhwein in the Mountains
Glühwein, a traditional drink of the Alps, is a cozy way to warm up while relaxing on a cold winter’s night.

Glühwein isn’t a drink that lights you up like a Christmas tree, but even the Ebenezer in your life can’t resist the merriment found in a steamy cup. The best way to savor spiced wine is from a porcelain ceramic mug or a glass crystal mug for a touch of holiday sparkle. Our recommendation is to use double-wall insulated crystal glass mugs to preserve flavor and warmth. Or you can select a vintage ceramic mug and let the world know you live like Santa is not watching.

As we point out in the below directions, Glühwein is served hot and should be sipped slowly just as you would with a fresh cup of coffee.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Mountains of Merry: The Boutique Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

How to Make Glühwein

How to Make Gluhwein

Fortunately, you don’t need to raid Santa’s cellar to get your hands on this stuff. Follow these 6 simple steps to make Glühwein right in the comforts of your own home.

In less than 15 minutes, you can ease into your chair by the fire and mull over the wonders of mulled wine.

Step 1 – Find the Right Wine

Visit your local wine shop and pick up a bottle of red wine. Opinions vary on the best type with some opting for full-bodied reds like Malbec to others proclaiming bright and fruity reds like Pinot Noir work best.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar

We’re hopeless mountain lovers. We use Alpine reds from Alto Adige. A couple of our favorites include the lovely Lagrein from the award-winning Elena Walch and Nals Margreid wine estates. Not only do these wines make Glühwein fit for a king, but they also pair exceptionally well with the Alps’ most hearty dishes. 

Step 2 – Set the Holiday Mood (Optional, but Highly-Recommended!)

Foster a festive holiday cooking mood to begin your new Glühwein tradition by playing a little traditional German Christmas music from South Tyrol, home to Europe’s most charming Christmas markets.

Of course, if you’re looking for something a bit more upbeat, you could always spin this little holiday classic from Germany’s most beloved singer. Nothing says Christmas like the Hoff!

Step 3 – Gather Your Sweets

Make sure you have the following Glühwein ingredients on hand at home: sugar, cinnamon sticks, cloves and oranges. Yes, oranges.

Step 4 – Prepare the Ingredients

Grab a pot and prep the ingredients that you will be adding to it.

Gluhwein ingredients
Glühwein is easy to make requiring only a handful of common ingredients.

Traditional Glühwein requires ½ cinnamon stick, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 5 cloves and peel of an orange (¼ to ½ of orange).

Step 5 – Make Stove Top Magic

Pour the entire bottle of wine into the pot (it’s okay to lick the cork), add the cinnamon stick, sugar, cloves and orange peel. Bring the wine to nearly a boil.

Making mulled wine also known as spiced wine and Gluhwein

Note: For Santa’s sake, do not boil the wine! Doing so will reduce the alcohol content thus the amount of fun you’ll have by equal measure.

Step 6 – Begin Your Merry Journey

Remove the cinnamon stick and cloves with a fine strainer. Pour this conjuring of Christmas magic into cups and serve immediately.

Drinking Gluhwein

Note: You can add rum or brandy to the Glühwein if you want to crank up the festiveness at your holiday gathering. But if sweetness is your greatest holiday weakness, honey is fine to add as well.

❄️Bonus Step

Repeat steps 1-6 as often as needed. Life is too short to deny sipping away holiday stress with ample amounts of Glühwein.

Feeling Fine with Glühwein

Enjoying Glühwein at home is an enticing way to the take chill out of any winter night. But more importantly, be sure to enjoy a cup or three while visiting a Christmas market.

Drinking anything else would no doubt upset the Krampus lurking in the corner. Not a wise move.

If the thought of laboring in the kitchen to make another holiday treat sucks the season right out of you…don’t worry. Glühwein can be purchased at your local wine shop. Just warm it up and serve the gift that will keep on giving.

The Best Glühwein Recipe  – Tap to Save!

How to Make & Drink Gluhwein

Filed Under: Alto Adige Wines, South Tyrol Christmas Markets Tagged With: Christmas Market, Glühwein, Mulled Wine, Spiced Wine

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