Castles

A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle

Every trip to South Tyrol should include a wild excursion into its storied past. We share why the mountain-enthroned Trostburg Castle is one historic haunt not to miss.

IN A LAND teeming with more castles than anywhere else in Europe, it’s impossible not to wonder what the world was like when ruled from a throne. Especially when sweat begins beading on your forehead only 5 minutes into a grueling climb to one of South Tyrol’s most imposing mountainside fortresses.

The stone shackled road leading to Trostburg Castle snakes up from the village of Ponte Gardena (Waidbruck) in the lower Valle Isarco (Eisack Valley). It’s only a 15-minute hike, but the trudge to this mighty haunt of medieval prowess gives you real appreciation for how people ages ago managed buns of steel without cheesy workout videos.

By the time you reach the entrance of Trostburg Castle, you nearly expect to be greeted by a knight named Sir Gluteus Maximus. Instead, what does greet you is pure awe. The utter grandness of the fortress up close is as breathtaking as the hike that leads you here.

Of Wildflowers & Cobblestones

Looking up from the trailhead in Ponte Gardena, it’s tempting to become transfixed on reaching Trostburg Castle as quickly as possible. This is a mistake. The hike to the fortress is a gem all its own.

The old castle road inspiring you onward gifts hikers numerous swoon-worthy sights. You wander pass Alpine meadows painted by the season, as well as through shade-friendly forests dotted with benches offering a chance for a contemplative rest.

Trostburg Castle commands from a height of more than 2,000 ft.

At the bends of the sloping road, sweeping vistas materialize before you like theater curtains parting for a show. Pausing to inhale the views of the roaring Isarco River below are all you need to press on.

Of course, if you are a photography enthusiast, these viewpoints are where you can do much more than take a brief break. The number of opportunities to capture Trostburg Castle framed in romance is countless. In fact, you may find this trek one of the most rewarding short adventures in South Tyrol.

Farm lovers are equally thrilled with the journey to Trostburg. Lying above the village of Ponte Gardena, directly off the castle road, is a charming farmstead that poetically illustrates the meaning of quaint.

Here, you can make some new friends of the hoofed kind while whistling by. The panorama these animals enjoy might even make you wonder if being a jackass in South Tyrol isn’t such a bad thing.

As you continue hiking up the road, the imposing mystery of Trostburg Castle becomes less mysterious. A sign posted on the roadside tells the story of the stronghold. It is written in German, Italian and English.

The Tale of Mountainside Empire

The famous medieval poet, Oswald Von Wolkenstein, once called Trostburg home. Is he winking in this portrait? No, legend has it his right eye was lost during a childhood archery accident.

Trostburg Castle began towering over the Valle Isarco in the 12th century. Its building blocks were born from the boulders left behind by ancient glaciers and rivers once ravaging the land.

Exactly how long it took medieval masons to chisel these stones into castle-ready form, lift to lofty heights and mortar them into eternal rest on the mountain is not known.

Trostburg Castle exchanged overlords multiple times over the centuries. However, its most famous resident was Oswald von Wolkenstein — a beloved medieval poet and composer who penned odes about travel, sex and God long before Led Zeppelin did.

Trostburg was purportedly Oswald’s childhood home. Why he left such a majestic residence is beyond us, but Oswald eventually lodged his poetic soul at the Abbey of Novacella, an ancient monastery in Brixen that is today one of the oldest wineries in the world.

The castle served as the ancestral seat of the Wolkenstein family for nearly 600 years. Prior to their possession, Trostburg belonged to many prominent nobles including the Lords of Velturno, the Counts of Tyrol and the Lords of Villanders.

Roaming the Castle Grounds

Upon reaching Trostburg Castle, we suggest walking about its grounds to see the fortress in all its grandeur. Admiring the castle from multiple vantage points allows you to peer into the past.

The aged stonework tells of the castle’s modifications, additions and fortifications over the centuries. Portions of Trostburg’s walls appear gray like an overcast sky while others seem burned by sun with tints of gold and red.

Trostburg Castle sprawls over a rugged swath of the mountainside.

Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architectural contours and details are visible with every step as you wander by the stronghold itself and the other structures forging the castle complex. Indeed, the only sights you may encounter betraying the castle’s glorious past are the occasional tourist snapping a selfie or an automobile racing on a road in the valley far below.

Behind the Walls of Trostburg Castle

In classic castle fashion, entering Trostburg Castle demands walking through a massive arched door that makes you wonder if only the hand of God can open it.

Once inside the castle, you can marvel at faded frescoes gracing its courtyard walls. They appear almost graffitti-like in their randomness and subject matter.

Walking through the castle’s historic rooms and halls is where you can truly get lost in the craftsmanship of centuries past. They display artifacts and works of art spanning nearly a millennia.

The castle chapel of St. Anthony is curiously small and depicts moody religious scenes on its ceiling that are intriguing to ponder.

If you are a hunter, plan to linger in the castle’s large guest chamber. Here, murals showcasing hunting motifs impart clues to what a medieval hunt must have been like.

If you love all things medieval, Trostburg Castle is a MUST SEE while in South Tyrol.

Especially impressive in the castle is the wood clad walls and ceilings. These rustic adornments display elaborate details that compel you to strain your neck in study. The rich stucco art in the grand Knight’s Hall leaves you wishing royalty was in your blood.

Ornate and pastoral furnishings dance together effortlessly among the walls of Trostburg Castle.

A castle artifact we found particularly mind-blowing was the immense medieval wine press located in the castle tower. When we first saw the wine press we thought it to be a crude torture concoction meant to contort wretched souls in the most medieval way.

Alas, we were relieved to learn its only victims were plucked grapes. Torturing fruit to give up its sweetness for South Tyrolean wine is fine by us. The wine press is the largest in South Tyrol and employs a 36-foot long wood pressing level. This mass of lumber projects like a missile across the castle tower.

Trostburg Castle holds the largest medieval wine press in South Tyrol.

In addition to being home to a number of nobles over the centuries, Trostburg Castle is also the official home to the South Tyrolean Institute of Castles (Südtiroler Burgeninstitut). A section of the castle is dedicated to hosting the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles. Here, you can study remarkable creations of true-to-scale models of 86 South Tyrolean castles.

How to Visit Trostburg Castle

Fitting in a visit to Trostburg Castle is easy to do on your way into or out of Val Gardena. It’s impossible to miss looming above the A22 Autostrada.

If you are driving from Bolzano or Brixen, take the Val Gardena exit and head to Ponte Gardena. You will find plenty of public parking available near the castle trailhead in the heart of the village.

However, if you’re venturing into the Dolomites for a winter excursion, you will have to skip Trostburg. The castle is only open from the end of March to the end of October.

From your parking spot, follow signs pointing to Trostburg Castle. Take trail no. 1 as show in the picture below.

Admission to Trostburg Castle is very reasonable: €8 for adults, €5 for kids from 6 to 14 years old and free for youngsters 6 years old and under. But the smart way to visit the castle, as well as a host of other sights in South Tyrol, is to obtain the Museumobil card. The card is €15-€34 depending on the duration of your stay and age. It gives you free access to 90+ museums and historical sights.

If you have worked up a thirst or appetite Trostburg Castle, consider making a 15-minute drive to the artist village of Chiusa (Klausen) located across the Isarco River. Tucked within this postcard-pretty town is one of South Tyrol’s finest craft breweries and taverns: Gassl Bräu.

Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal or Italian fare if you prefer. We chose both and they each made our mouths sing with praise.

Recharge your batteries with a visit to **Gassl Bräu**.

But no visit to Gassl Bräu’s is complete without drinking a pint of Gassl Bräu’s beer — a fine, frosty reflection of South Tyrol’s centuries-old brewing tradition. Before ordering one too many, though, be sure to walk into the tavern’s brewery. It’s a slightly surreal experience. A glass floor lays beneath your feet revealing a rushing stream with trout darting back and forth.

Whether you dine or simply savor a refreshment, the street-side tables at Gassl Bräu’s offer the idyllic medieval setting to plan a hike to another historic wonder. Allow us to suggest the Sabiona Monastery.

This striking destination clings to a clifftop high above the village. See our post for details on how to get there. #MakeAdventureHappen 😍

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A Halo of Ruin – Exploring the Castles of Eppan

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

Three castles, one hike? Every castle hunter should be so lucky. That was our first thought after discovering a halo of castles forming a stunning hike called “Three Castles Walk” in Eppan / Appiano, South Tyrol.

We had just arrived at Weingut Donà for a multi-day romantic adventure along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. The Hocheppan Castle perched high above our villa apartment caught our eye immediately. How could it not? It loomed from a rocky ledge along a sheer mountain wall. From where we stood far below, this 12th-century stronghold looked to be a marvel of the most medieval kind.

Over the Hills and Far Away

We considered setting out on the Three Castles Walk from Weingut Donà, but opted to drive up the mountain a bit to a nearby village called Missiano. Starting from here gave us the best chance of visiting all three castles. Plus, from the parking lot, we could follow well-marked signs pointing the way up to our first castle stop.

On a steep hill above the parking lot sat an enticing looking church. We made a mental note to visit it if we had time after consuming the three castles. South Tyrol can be joyfully exhausting for curious souls like us. It teems with such intriguing sights making it a land where one could explore endlessly.

A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

We began the Three Castles Walk along a paved road, but were soon enveloped by vineyards as we ascended the foothills of Mondelo mountain range. Hocheppan Castle teased us from afar. But each step offered us an ever-widening view of the valley below.

Jagged peaks of the Dolomites soared from the horizon beyond Bolzano. The infamous Witches Mountain (Sciliar / Schlern) cut into the sky like a gravestone just above the molten gold of leaves still clinging to the vines. It was a sight of pure South Tyrolean splendor.

All Along the Watchtower

Eventually, the vineyards became woodland and we found ourselves in a shroud of trees. The path steepened in the forest, but we came across several benches to catch our breath. We were about to turn a final corner to Hocheppan Castle when we happened to glance behind us. A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

Hocheppan Castle Chalk Tower — The 12th-century watchtower of Hocheppan Castle.

Veering off the main path, we hopped through the woods until finding another trail to the tower. Within 5 minutes we were at the foot of a sign reading “Kreideturm” (Chalk Tower). We darted up to the hill crest where the tower stood. Its appearance was rather austere. The tower looked like a poor man’s skyscraper. We discovered it was erected in the late 12th century as a watchtower for Hocheppan Castle. The king’s guard would ignite a chalk fire at the top of the tower to signal incoming danger.

We were not able to find a way into the tower so we moved on after thoroughly exploring the area. Walking through the forest back to the castle path, we came across a ghostly white face staring at us between the trees. We stood frozen. The face moved. Two horns flashed. Then the figure turned revealing a body much like a deer except it wasn’t. We watched with fascination as two chamois lightly floated over the forest floor seemingly without a care.

Chamois in the woods — Ghosts in the forest. Encounters with chamois while hiking to Hocheppan. Can you spot the second one?

At the Gate of Hocheppan

Twenty minutes later we finally came to the crumbling walls of Hocheppan Castle. Below us was a sweeping view that cemented why this fortress was built at this height. The castle itself is a remarkable ruin. Both a romantic and fierce sight at the same time. A tall bergfried looms from the castle’s heart, a medieval architectural relic that is rare in the Alps.

Once the mightiest stronghold in South Tyrol, Hocheppan came to crown the mountain around the year 1130. It sits at more than 2,000 feet and was the ancestral seat of the Counts of Eppan — sworn enemies to the Counts of Tyrol to the north. Given the name of the region you can guess who ultimately won.

Since the castle was closed for the season we were not able to wander whatever was left of its once kingly halls. Nor were we able to admire its famous chapel, which contains priceless ancient frescoes that paint a vivid picture of life during the Middle Ages.

Even though abandoned for more than 500 years, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been.

As we were alone at the castle, we sat silently on a bench admiring its form against the autumn sky. But we were not as alone as we thought. A cat crept up to our feet. She purred loudly nuzzling against our legs…clearly longing to be held. Who were we to argue? After coddling the cuddly furball, we set her free. She led us to the other side of the castle. No doubt its throne belonged to her as she was not in any way lost.

Castle Hocheppan / Appiano — Upon our arrival at Hocheppan Castle we were greeted warmly by the queen.

Hocheppan Castle Cat — As all castle visits must end, we bid farewell to the queen per the royal custom of South Tyrol.

To Boymont & Beyond

A sign on the path pointed us toward the second castle on our hike: Boymont. The trail took us down on a rocky ravine that we feared meant a steep climb at some point. Sure enough. Stairs built along the sheer cliff edge scaled the other side of the ravine. We sweated our way up the steps. The trail then snaked up a bit further before dropping us off at the door of Boymont Castle.

Boymont Castle is another ruin from centuries past. Its stone facade is quite different from Hocheppan. Boymont Castle wears a more reddish hue rather than gray and its decorative windows, with their arches and stone pillars, speak to an early Gothic style.

The Counts of Eppan built Boymont Castle in the 13th century. But they were not the first to reside on this castle hill. Archaeologists have found remnants from prehistoric times.

Boymont was not of military importance — serving as a luxurious residential manor instead. This is quite evident by its uncommon medieval form. Even though abandoned for more than 500 years after an arsonist set fire, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been. We peeked at the castle’s courtyard through an iron gate. It was magnificent. Definitely a place we will be returning to enjoy a South Tyrolean gem at its wine tavern.

Boymont Castle Windows — Admiring the early Gothic style windows of Boymont Castle.

We found the castle’s windows particularly fascinating. Peering through them long ago must have been exhilarating. Despite the fortress being in ruin, it was easy to picture its storybook past.

The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

After exploring all four corners of Boymont, we soaked in the panorama from the mountain’s edge. Steeples and tiled roofs colored the valley floor between sweeping swaths of vineyards and orchards. The sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. The third castle on the walk tempted us from some far off crag, but we saved conquering Castel Korb for another day. Being caught in the dark in a land haunted by legends was not how either one of us sought to spend the night. Besides we knew there was a bottle of wine waiting for us at Weingut Donà.

Once back at the villa apartment, we cleaned up and enjoyed a couple of glasses of Vernatsch before venturing to Bolzano for a feast at The Laurin Restaurant. Dining at a venue named after a royal legend seemed like the only appropriate way to end a day among regal ruins.

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

The best time to embark on the Three Castles Walk is obviously when the castles are open. However, we found having the trails and ruins to ourselves during the off-season especially memorable. Surprisingly, we lingered longer around each castle longer than we may if they had been open. The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

If you are visiting South Tyrol during summer and much of spring or fall you will be able to experience everything Hocheppan Castle and Boymont Castle offer. Hocheppan is open from early April to early November. It can be visited daily from 10 am to 6 pm excluding Wednesdays. Tours are available in English.

Boymont Castle is typically open from late March to early November. Hours are from 11 am to 5 pm every day except when shuttered on Mondays.

Both castles serve traditional South Tyrolean food and drink if you wish to sip and eat among the same stones as knights and kings.

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The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 34 Comments

FEW SIGHTS CAPTURE the imagination quite like an imposing medieval castle towering from an even more imposing mountainside. South Tyrol has no shortage of them. The region swells with 800 castles and mansions spread over a variety of its Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes.

In fact, more castles loom from this corner of northern Italy than any other area of Europe.

Surrounded by vineyards, orchards, forests and hiking trails not to mention some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the world, South Tyrol’s castles provide a truly breathtaking way to plunge yourself into the Middle Ages.

You don’t have to be a kid at heart or a fanatic of Games of Thrones to find these fortresses fascinating. Here are some celebrated South Tyrolean medieval haunts you’ll want to visit.

Castle Tirol

Perhaps the most important castle in South Tyrol, Castle Tirol rises over a deep ravine in the village of Dorf Tirol. This riveting fortress was such a force in medieval times that it cast its name upon an entire land. From its ramparts, you’ll cast your eyes over sweeping views of apple orchards, terraced vineyards and the unfurling rich greenery of the Etschtal valley.

South Tyrol Castles — Picturesque even in the gloom of November. Many of South Tyrol’s castles, like Castle Tirol shown here, tower from rocky spurs erupting out of forested mountainsides.

Built in the 1100s, Castle Tirol was home to the Counts of Tyrol and wielded enough influence throughout Europe to earn ink in Dante’s Inferno, the epic poem first published in 1321.

The Tappeiner Promenade, Algunder Waalweg (a path along an ancient water channel) and Falconers’ Path (Falknerweg) wind around the castle presenting countless photo opportunities. Plus, a perfectly positioned beer garden nearby entices you to sit and savor the sights with a refreshing beverage in hand.

View from Castle Tirol — The sweeping mountain and valley views from Castle Tirol make it well worth the hike to reach it.

The castle is the perfect place to discover the history of South Tyrol as it also contains the South Tyrolean Museum of History. Spread out through several floors in the castle’s chief tower, the museum reveals a new era of South Tyrol as you walk up. Taking the time to soak in the marvelous past of the region is a must when visiting the castle.

During the holiday season, Castle Tirol also hosts a cozy Christmas market within its courtyard. Visiting it at this time of year is especially endearing as the castle imbues all who enter with an undeniable Christmas spirit.

Brunnenburg Castle

Perched below Castle Tirol is another fortress of equal majesty. The Counts of Tyrol constructed Brunnenberg Castle as a line of defense against an attack on Castel Tirol. It was erected in 1250, but fell like so many historic haunts fell into ruin over the centuries.

At the beginning of the 20th-century, a wealthy German gave Brunnenberg new life by resurrecting it to its former medieval glory. Unfortunately, it was abandoned again after his death in 1925.

The castle sat empty until 1948 when the daughter of troubled American poet, Erza Pound, restored it once again. Ten years later Erza Pound joined his daughter at Brunnenberg after his release from a mental institution.

Today, the castle is open for visitors from early April through October. In addition to revealing fascinating medieval history, Brunnenberg also allows enriches your historical understanding of traditional farming methods at the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum, which is located on the castle grounds.

Castle Taufers

Castle Taufers is one of the largest castles in South Tyrol. Staring up its stone walls chiseled with medieval brawn, it’s hard not to conjure up thoughts of Ned Stark boldly commanding from the castle’s throne room. Fortunately, you don’t have to be on the set of Game of Thrones to walk through its knightly halls. Castle Taufers attracts around 75,000 visitors each year.

Castle Taufers was residence to some of South Tyrol’s most powerful aristocrats of the 13th century. History abounds within. The castle boasts 64 rooms many of which are ornately decorated with paintings, chandeliers, intricate woodwork and weapons.

Castle Taufers in Winter — Castle Taufers watches over the village of Campo Tures in the far east corner of South Tyrol.

Among the most fascinating rooms are the torture chamber, the hall of knights, baroque library and the weapons hall. The castle’s Romanesque chapel captivates crucifix from around the year 1200. The chapel also showcases striking Gothic frescoes from 1482.

With its formidable appearance, it’s no surprise the Taufers Castle has found its way onto the silver screen. The castle served as the haunting backdrop to Roman’s Polanski’s 1967 horror classic: The Fearless Vampires, which starred Sharon Tate.

Trostburg Castle

Enthroned on a thundering mountainside above the Isarco river, the Trostburg Castle was the stalwart gatekeeper to the Val Gardena for centuries. The fortress, forged from stone around 1150, offers admirers a deep glimpse into life during the Middle Ages.

It was the childhood home to Oswald von Wolkenstein, an esteemed poet celebrated as the last Minnesinger of the Medieval Age. Interesting enough, the person often regarded as the first Minnesinger also came from South Tyrol: Walther von der Vogelweide.

Trostburg Castle Wine Cellar — The cantina at Trostburg Castle reveals how wine was made when kings and queens ruled from a throne.

Trostburg Castle houses the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles where you can view with 86 true-to-scale models of castles throughout South Tyrol. This makes Trostburg an ideal castle to visit first so you can get a better idea on which South Tyrolean castles pique your interest the most.

Reaching Trostburg Castle requires a long hike up a cobbled path, but all who make it are rewarded with awe-inspiring sights stretching across the Valle Isarco.

⇒ READ MORE: Claiming the Throne at Trostburg Castle

Castle Lebenberg

When walking along an ancient water channel carved into the steep mountainside, it’s easy to lose your breath at the sight Castle Lebenberg. The castle suddenly greets you from its perch after rounding a corner shrouded in grape vines. It vigilantly stands guard amidst rolling vineyards over the valley below.

The Lords of Marlengo constructed this elegant fortress in the 13th century. Castle Lebenberg fascinates visitors with its late Gothic chapel adorned in precious frescoes from the 14th century. The castle’s walls also hold a Hall of Mirrors and Hall of Knights that is complete with a collection of medieval weapons worth marveling at. Visitors can also explore an ornate French flower garden and inner courtyards straight out of a fable.

The most picturesque way to reach Castle Lebenberg is by hiking the Marlengo waalweg. From this trail, you’ll wander through forests, vineyards and orchards all while consuming the lushness of Merano and the surrounding mountains. A perfect way to spend a day in South Tyrol.

Prösels Castle

Erected more than 800 years ago, the Prösels Castle is a magnificent fortress with a haunting history. The castle sits in the shadow of Schlern mountain and in the 16th century was the site of witch trials, which resulted in the burning of dozens of women at the stake.

Despite its tragic past, the castle now serves as a place of celebration hosting many events and concerts. Its stark beauty against the rolling countryside leaves an impression you will not be quick to forget no matter the season you visit.

South Tryol Castles Prosels — Prösels Castle is a haunting fortress in more ways than one. Long ago, it was once the scene of several witch trials.

Churburg Castle

As much as Castle Taufers looks it belongs in Game of Thrones, it’s Churburg Castle that could be the inspiration for the swords, lances and armor of Westeros. For the last 500 years, Churburg Castle has remained within the same family and holds the largest collection of medieval armor in the world.

With 50 authentic suits of armor and accompanying weapons, one can only imagine the intense battles that were once fought to keep its arcaded courtyard with its two stories of frescoes fully-protected and remarkably-preserved to this day. The Churburg Castle is a feast for those drawn to the military history of Europe.

Churburg Castle Armor Suits — Churburg Castle remains battle ready with the largest assortment of medieval weaponry in the world.

South Tyrol Castles – See the Medieval Heart of Europe

With 800 plus castles to pick from on any given visit to South Tyrol, you’re sure to find one you would love to call home. Even South Tyrol’s castle ruins look enticing to live in amidst the expansive romantic backdrop of mountains, vineyards and orchards.

This list of castles to see in South Tyrol is obviously by no means exhaustive. But we hope you now have a sense for the medieval splendor awaiting your exploration. Too many travelers are not aware of the striking architecture and history lying in the far north of Italy.

We’ll leave with a word of caution to those that favor the couch over a trail. Getting to many of these magnificent structures can be challenging. Many cling to mountainsides requiring hikes up steep trails and rugged paths. By the time you get to the top, you’ll know if you were cut out to be a knight. But worry not. The view from a mountain-born castle always quickly washes away any memory of the trek up. Always. We guarantee it.