Castle Tirol

Mountains of Merry: The Boutique Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

If you’re visiting South Tyrol during the season of tinsel and tidings, chances are the traditional Christmas markets of Bolzano, Merano, Brixen and Sterzing are on your holiday wish list.

But as lovely as each of those markets are, it pays to also stroll the several boutique Christmas markets decorating South Tyrol. Taking time to casually drift through the “off-the-beaten” path Christmas markets imparts a gift of memories you will cherish long after the season ends.

In this post, we highlight three boutique markets you should not miss.

A Candle-lit Christmas at Lake Carezza

When a remote Alpine lake tells of a wizard long ago shattering a rainbow into its pristine waters, there may be no better place for an event as magical as a Christmas market. The Christmas Market at Lake Carezza takes place in the ancient forest surrounding its fabled shore. Stalls shaped like wooden lanterns line a trail that winds from one side of the lake to the other.

If you’re longing to experience a Christmas market within a winter wonderland, Lake Carezza can almost guarantee it. Thanks to the higher altitude it is one of the most picturesque markets.

The market sits within the Dolomites with the Latemar and Rosengarten massifs looming as backdrops. When we wandered the market, countless evergreen boughs held fresh puffs of snow and the mountains wore icy crowns.

For anyone worried about enduring a wintry chill, wood stoves dot the market offering comfort and the enchanting aroma of a crackling wood fire. Standing over flames in the mountains and listening to Christmas tunes from a trio of trumpets will etch a merry memory into your heart forever.

When we discovered a Christmas market is held each year within its walls we turned several shades of merry.

Beyond enjoying freshly-baked sweets and delicious drinks sold at the stalls, you can also find a variety of handmade crafts that harken back to a simpler time. Visiting in the evening is especially enchanting as the market is lit by candle lanterns that cast a soft glow all along the trail.

When to Go

We timed our visit to the market when the Krampus was set loose upon the trail. This was our first encounter with the less-than-jolly beasts of lore and we were blown away by the experience.

If you can make it during the weekend that lures the Krampus out of their caves, we highly recommend it. To learn more about the Krampus tradition, be sure to read about our Krampus encounter in Margreid.

Candle lanterns guide you through the Christmas market at Lake Carezza…as well as the Krampus.

The Lake Carezza Christmas market occurs each weekend in December from 10 am to 8 pm. It is just 20 minutes from Bolzano by car. For specific details on the event go to the official website for Eggental Valley, which is where Lake Carezza is located.

A Christmas Forest at FORST Brewery

Since 1857, the Forst brewery in Algund has been spreading cheer well beyond the holiday season. One cannot trek in South Tyrol at any time of year without encountering an invitation to relax with a refreshing Forst beer at a mountain hut. It’s an invitation we always accept.

But the brewery’s cheerful tidings rise to new heights each year with the opening of its enchanted Christmas Forest (Forster Weihnactswald / Foresta Natalizia). Dining and drinking at FORST is always a joy, however, our first visit to the Christmas Forest was one of the most relaxing evenings of the holidays.

The Christmas Forest at FORST conjures a cozy atmosphere that the traditional Christmas markets simply cannot match.

Out of all of the Christmas markets in South Tyrol, it is the one we would return to multiple times during the season. Admiring the tasteful holiday splendor FORST adorns throughout the brewery is worth the trip alone.

Forst Beer Lounge — The massive copper vats in the FORST Beer Lounge shimmer in the warm glow of Christmas. A perfect place to sit and relax with a pint.

The Christmas Forest at FORST conjures a cozy atmosphere that the traditional Christmas markets simply cannot match.

Aglow with crackling fires throughout, the Christmas Forest includes a spectacular ice-skating rink softly lit by sparkling lights, a bakery offering culinary wonders such as traditional South Tyrolean Zelten (Christmas Cake), specialty stalls brimming with local crafts and of course a festive beer garden where liters upon liters of FORST beer swirl with holiday magic beneath countless ornaments.

Each year, FORST also opens its gourmet restaurant called “Felsenkeller” for the duration of the market. Guests enjoy a magnificent feast in an ancient stone cellar furnished with exquisite decor including the largest Christmas ball in the world. The dining experience at Felsenkeller is what Christmas dreams are made of.

When to Go

The FORST Christmas Forest begins enchanting holiday revelers from November 20 through January 6. It is open from 10 am to midnight.

We recommend visiting the Christmas Forest after you have strolled the traditional Christmas market in Merano. FORST is located less than 10 minutes away.

In addition to the market festivities, guided tours of the brewery are also available each day. If you wish to experience the Felsenkeller gourmet restaurant, reservations must be made in advance at felsenkeller@forst.it.

For those not wanting splurge on a gourmet feast, you can also dine in the brewery’s traditional restaurant, Bräustüberl Forst, which is delicious and adorned with ornate woodwork that fosters a heart-warming ambiance.

Medieval Merriment at Castle Tirol

What was it like to celebrate Christmas at a time when lands were ruled from thrones and candles were for more than setting the mood? The Christmas market at Castle Tirol gives revelers a charming glimpse.

Arguably the most celebrated castle in South Tyrol, Castle Tirol makes one’s jaw drop long before reaching its gates. The castle’s imposing presence atop a craggy glacial moraine in Dorf Tirol leaves us spellbound every time we lay eyes on it. Without a doubt, it is among the top medieval sights in all of Europe. Built in the 1100s, Castle Tirol was home to the Counts of Tyrol who wielded enough power to name an entire region.

We reached the castle by parking in a public lot located in Dorf Tirol. From here, we walked along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This paved path edges along a deep ravine.

Beyond are splendid views of tumbling vineyards and the Texel mountain group of the Oetztal Alps. In addition to fawning over Castle Tirol during the walk, plenty of vantage points reveal the stunning Brunnenburg Castle, which sits on a crag below the stronghold.

Castle Tirol Tunnel — How is this for old world charm? A centuries-old tunnel leads to the market.

A 260-foot stone-walled tunnel carved out in the 17th century leads visitors through the final stretch to the castle. The entire trek takes roughly 20-30 minutes, but if you’re like us, you’ll linger longer. The path ascends easily, but if you prefer to roll your way to Castle Tirol, a horse-drawn carriage ride is available.

The market entices with food and refreshment stands within the castle’s courtyard. While we were there a gentleman roasted chestnuts on the spot and a brass band filled the air with notes of cheer. We, in turn, filled ourselves with cheer by sipping on mulled wine. Afterward, we wandered inside the castle to browse crafts and other South Tyrolean specialties for sales. A woodcarver wowed us with his artisanship on the lathe at one of the exhibits.

Upon finishing touring the market we ventured into the castle’s Hall of Knights. The portal leading to the chapel captivated us with remarkable Romanesque marble sculptures from the 12th century. Studying the faces and figures in the marble makes a trip to the castle worth it on their own.

Meandering around the chapel is a moving experience as the haunting expressions of faded frescoes follows your every step. A life-size crucifixion scene looms overhead. Erected in 1330, it reveals the emotions of Jesus, Mary and John with striking realism. On the wall across the chapel is the first known depiction of the South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

When to Go

The Castle Tirol Christmas market only occurs the first two weekends in December. It takes place from 10 am to 7 pm on Saturday and Sunday. Throughout each day different activities take place and a variety of music groups entertain in the courtyard.

For a full list of the special events scheduled be sure to review the event program by going to the official tourist site for Dorf Tirol.

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Of Sun, Blood & Wine – The Red Eagle of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Symbols possess power. And in South Tyrol, there is perhaps no more powerful symbol than its coat of arms: the Red Tyrolean Eagle.

Spend any amount of time in the region and you can’t miss this ancient emblem. Throughout the land, you’ll encounter it waving from red and white banners or gracing weathered walls wearing centuries of ruin. From our very first visit to South Tyrol, the brilliant red and stalwart pose of the heraldic eagle has captured our imagination.

According to historians, coats of arms came to be during the 11th century. Knights of the period originally placed them on their shields to broadcast their battle-born accomplishments to enemies. Thus, the first coats of arms were unique to each warrior. In time, the emblems became uniform to represent family lineage and allegiances to a throne.

By the 13th century, coats of arms were commonplace — stirring fear from banners in battle and high above the crenelated towers of strongholds. However, only royalty and those granted a king’s blessing could harness their representative might. When a royal family claimed one as their own it became a unifying symbol through the centuries. Each generation passed their coat of arms to the next.

Red Wings Rising

The earliest known depiction of South Tyrol’s Red Eagle coat of arms is found in Castle Tirol, a striking fortress constructed in the 1100s. This castle became the ancestral seat of the Counts of Tyrol, which ultimately wielded such power in the region they named an entire land. A remarkable feat considering no other castle in Europe can claim the same.

South Tyrol Coat of Arms — Castle Tirol possesses the oldest depiction of the Red Eagle – South Tyrol’s Coat of Arms.

The Red Eagle coat of arms in Castle Tirol is located in the stronghold’s chapel above a portal. It is in fresco form, but even with nearly 900 years of wear much of the eagle’s red plume still boldly remains. Imagine how brilliant it must have been when knights wandered the castle’s halls.

Even in certain death, he blazoned forward brandishing rare bravery few can muster.

Viewing the emblem in Castle Tirol casts it an almost mythical light. One comes away with a deeper understanding as to why those from the region see themselves as a Tyrolean first rather than Italian or Austrian.

The Outlaw Hero of Tyrol

Through the centuries the Red Eagle of South Tyrol has been regarded as a symbol of freedom. Possibly no more so than in the early 1800s when Tyrolean patriot Andreas Hofer led peasant rebellions against French and Bavarian occupation and rule.

A common man from South Tyrol’s Passer Valley, Hofer possessed such magnetic eloquence and esteem that when he pronounced the famous line “Men, the time has come!”, his fellow countrymen valorously sprang into arms. His iron resolution, dauntless courage and burning love for Tyrol inspired thousands into deeds of valor and sacrifice for their motherland.

South Tyrol Hero - Andreas Hofer — *Homecoming of the Tyrolean Militia* – A painting by Franz Defregger from 1876 celebrating the return of Andreas Hofer and his men.

Labeling Hofer an outlaw, Napolean put a price on his head. A fellow countryman named Franz Raffl betrayed Hofer earning him notoriety as the “Judas of Tyrol”. On January 28, 1810, Napoleonic forces captured Hofer in a mountain hut at nearly 5,000 feet above the village of St. Martin just 11 miles north of Merano.

A statue honoring Andreas Hofer was erected in Merano in 1920.

Under direct orders from Napolean, Hofer was executed by firing squad less than a month after his capture. He faced his fate with courage and dignity — refusing to kneel or be blindfolded.

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle, Why are thy plumes so red? “From suns that ﬁercely shine, From draughts of ruddy wine, From blood my foes have shed,— From these am I so red.”

Instead, he stared sternly at his murderers and when the commanding officer floundered in giving the order to shoot, Hofer gave it himself yelling “Fire!”. Even in certain death, he blazoned forward brandishing rare bravery few can muster.

Why are thy Plumes so Red?

It’s fascinating to know that as much as the Red Tyrolean Eagle long ago, its presence still does today. The emblem is a unifying symbol for the land. In fact, many South Tyroleans can still recite the following ode to the winged warrior from ages past:

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ In part because I rest
On Ortler’s lordly crest;
There share I with the snow
The sunset’s crimson glow.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ From drinking of the wine
Of Etschland’s peerless vine;
Its juice so redly shines,
That it incarnadines.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red? “
My plumage hath been dyed
In blood my foes supplied;
Oft on my breast hath lain
That deeply purple stain.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“From suns that ﬁercely shine,
From draughts of ruddy wine,
From blood my foes have shed,—
From these am I so red.”

The Red Eagle Across the Land

South Tyrol doesn’t lack stunning sights to capture no matter where you wander in this Alpine-Mediterranean jewel. But whether beaming from the heavens or adorned in the subtlest of ways, we have always found the South Tyrolean flag and coat of arms a must to shoot whenever coming across it.

Below are a few unique Red Eagle scenes we have come across during our travels.

Castle Tirol – Majesty Among the Mountains

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

What is it about castles? Whether in a perpetual state of crumble or masterfully preserved to reveal life in the Middle Ages, they endlessly fascinate us. We get lost in their haunting beauty as much as we do in the history and legends spun from within their ramparts of stone.

With 800 castles littering South Tyrol’s mountainous landscape, it’s hard to nail down one that impresses the most. But there is one whose ability to captivate us never fails no matter how many times we let it grace our eyes: Castle Tirol (also known as “Schloss Tirol” in German and “Castel Tirolo” in Italian)

Its imposing position 2,000 feet above the valley floor demands your attention from even miles away. Bearing such a commanding presence, it’s no wonder Castle Tirol named an entire region and its people. The word “Tirol / Tyrol” can be traced back to when the Roman Empire occupied the area. “Teriolis” was the given name of a Roman stronghold near Merano.

Erected in the 1100s by the Counts of Vinschgau, who later took title as the Counts of Tyrol, its storied walls hold some of the most important historical relics and artwork in South Tyrol. In fact, the faded frescoes of its chapel include the oldest painting of the Red Eagle, South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

The Many Moods of Castle Tirol

A unique quality of Castle Tirol is that depending on the temperament of the mountains or the hour of the season, the castle’s ancient majesty transforms before your eyes. Its seemingly ever-changing character is perhaps why we find Castle Tirol so alluring.

Autumn is a special time to visit as a wine-stand off the Falknerweg offers the season's new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grape vines while gazing at the castle and beyond.

See for yourself. Plunge into the Middle Ages with the following images. We hope they inspire you to etch the castle on your bucket list. Chisel not included.

Within the Storied Walls of Castle Tirol

As much as Castle Tirol enchants from the outside it is equally enchanting from within. The grandeur of the sweeping panorama awaiting visitors illustrates why the fortress was founded on its lofty, rocky spur.

A vintage image of the Tyrolean king ruling from Castle Tirol’s throne. Any resemblance to Vin is pure coincidence.

Situated to the north of Merano, Castle Tirol peers deep into the valley basin that stretches southward to Bolzano. On its western flank, the castle watches over the Vinschgau Valley, which runs toward Switzerland.

Inside the castle lies a treasure of archaeological finds including religious and pagan figures encircling the marble portals of the castle’s chapel. These are sculpted in Romanesque-style from the 12th century. Their meaning is still not entirely clear. Nevertheless, they are fascinating to study. Their ornate detail speaks to the superb craftsmanship of long ago.

The castle is also home to the South Tyrolean Museum of History and Culture offering an intriguing walk through the history of the land from its earliest beginnings to the modern era. The exhibit signs are in German and Italian, but visitors can check out an audio guide that is in English. The museum tour lasts about 50 minutes.

Castle Tirol Chapel — A larger than life Crucifixion scene crafted in 1330 looms over the chapel of Castle Tirol.

Reaching Castle Tirol

The only way to reach Castle Tirol is on foot. Trust us, this is a good thing. The hike to its gates is unforgettable. If views of the castle and vineyards riddled around it do not steal your breath away then the Texel mountain group in the distance certainly will.

When arriving at the area by car, we suggest parking in one of two public lots located in Dorf Tirol. From there, cross the street walking uphill along the sidewalk until coming to a sign designating the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This beautiful path takes you past hotels, restaurants and vineyards eventually winding along the edge of a deep ravine where you can admire the picturesque Brunnenburg Castle — once home to the famous poet Ezra Pound.

Before rounding a corner to the castle you will pass through a 260-foot stone tunnel built in the 17th century. The entire walk takes 20-30 minutes depending on how much you pause to snap pictures or simply savor the historical and natural beauty all around.

TIP: The castle can also be reached from Merano by walking the Tappeiner Promenade. This route takes 2-3 hours but is what we consider the most enchanting walk in Italy. It is our favorite way to reach Castle Tirol.

When to Visit Castle Tirol

Castle Tirol is open to the public from mid-March to early-December. Visit the castle’s official website to confirm dates and hours. Admission fees are € 7 per adult. Children and senior citizens receive discounted rates.

If you visit the castle during one of the weekends in December when it is hosting its traditional Christmas market, you can enjoy the castle at no charge. Seeing it at this time of year is especially charming.

Autumn is also a special time to visit as a wine-stand off the Falknerweg offers the season’s new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grape vines while gazing at the castle and beyond. Sounds a touch romantic doesn’t it? Afterward, treat yourself to a hearty South Tyrolean meal at Biergarten am Schlossweg — a panoramic beer garden nearby.

Mountains of Merry: The Boutique Christmas Markets of South Tyrol

A Candle-lit Christmas at Lake Carezza

When to Go

A Christmas Forest at FORST Brewery

When to Go

Medieval Merriment at Castle Tirol

When to Go

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Of Sun, Blood & Wine – The Red Eagle of South Tyrol

Red Wings Rising

The Outlaw Hero of Tyrol

Why are thy Plumes so Red?

The Red Eagle Across the Land

Castle Tirol – Majesty Among the Mountains

The Many Moods of Castle Tirol

Within the Storied Walls of Castle Tirol

Reaching Castle Tirol

When to Visit Castle Tirol

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Castle Tirol

A Candle-lit Christmas at Lake Carezza

When to Go

A Christmas Forest at FORST Brewery

When to Go

Medieval Merriment at Castle Tirol

When to Go

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Red Wings Rising

The Outlaw Hero of Tyrol

Why are thy Plumes so Red?

The Red Eagle Across the Land

The Many Moods of Castle Tirol

Within the Storied Walls of Castle Tirol

Reaching Castle Tirol

When to Visit Castle Tirol

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Get CHEATSHEETS You Can Quickly Use on the Road

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