Castle Tirol

Visiting Tyrol Castle: Ancient Might of the Alps 1

Tyrol Castle has stood watch over South Tyrol for nearly 1,000 years. Here’s why you should see this majestic work of ancient might while visiting the region.

What is it about castles? Whether in a perpetual state of crumble or masterfully preserved to reveal life in the Middle Ages, they endlessly fascinate us. Their haunting beauty inspires awe as much as the legends born within.

With 800 castles rising throughout the mountains and valleys of South Tyrol, it’s hard to nail down one that impresses the most. But there is one who never fails to captivate us no matter how many times we encounter it: Tyrol Castle (also known as “Castle Tirol”, “Schloss Tirol” in German and “Castel Tirolo” in Italian).

Its imposing seat 2,000 feet above the valley floor demands your attention from even miles away. Enthroned in the 1100s by the Counts of Vinschgau, who later took title as the Counts of Tyrol, Tyrol Castle holds some of the most important historical relics and artwork in South Tyrol. In fact, the faded frescoes of its chapel include the oldest known painting of the Red Eagle — South Tyrol’s revered coat of arms.

The Spell of Tyrol Castle

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A unique hallmark of Tyrol Castle is that depending on the temperament of the mountains or the hour of the season, the castle seemingly transforms before your eyes. It’s as if the fortress casts a spell of eternal enchantment on all who look upon its walls.

Tyrol Castle’s ever-changing persona, from hopelessly romantic to dreadfully tyrannical, is perhaps why we and so many others find this historic haunt endlessly alluring. For us, no other castle in South Tyrol conjures a spell quite like it.

No matter when you visit South Tyrol, you can experience this magic for yourself. In any season or hour, you will witness how Tyrol Castle looms with decisive command. The sight of the fortress will leave no doubt in your mind as to why it named an entire region and its people.

Speaking of its name, some historians indicate the word “Tirol / Tyrol” can be traced back to when the Roman Empire occupied the land. “Teriolis” was the given name of a Roman military outpost in northern Tyrol. Others speculate, that in the Dark Ages, Germanic tribes named the rocky outcropping that Tyrol Castle sits on “Tyr” in honor of a god they worshipped.

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The Views from Tyrol Castle

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As much as Tyrol Castle mesmerizes from the outside its grand views are equally enchanting. The sweeping panorama awaiting visitors illustrates why the fortress was founded at such a lofty height.

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Situated to the north of Merano, Tyrol Castle peers deep into the valley basin that stretches southward to Bolzano. On its western flank, the castle watches over the Vinschgau Valley, which zig-zags toward Switzerland and Austria.

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Invading armies from either direction would have been spotted well in advance of any threat. Enemies coming from the north would have had to cross the rugged Ötztal Alps — likely meeting the same fate as Ötzi the Iceman. And any marauders marching from the east would need to find a way to magically leap the Sarntal Alps.

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Within Tyrol Castle

Inside the castle lies a treasure of archaeological finds including religious and pagan figures encircling the marble portals of the castle’s chapel. These are sculpted in Romanesque style from the 12th century.

The meaning of these carved marvels is still not entirely clear. Nevertheless, they are fascinating to study. Their ornate detail speaks to the superb craftsmanship of long ago.

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Walking through the chapel door feels like you are stepping into a room a thousand years wide. Faded religious frescoes dating to the 12th century colorize the gray stone walls.

Many are still hardly scarred by the ravages of time. They continue beautifying the chapel making one wonder how stunning the walls must have looked centuries ago.

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South Tyrol Coat of Arms — Remarkably well-preserved frescoes nearly a thousand years old still adorn Tyrol Castle including the oldest known depiction of the Red Eagle — South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

Above the chapel floor of Tyrol Castle looms a larger-than-life Crucifixion scene. Crafted in1330, it is one of the most impressive works of medieval art we have ever seen.

Steps in the chapel climb to the upper chamber where you can admire the detail achieved by the artist at eye level. You will see firsthand why these sculptures are a priceless treasure of South Tyrol.

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The castle is also home to the South Tyrolean Museum of History and Culture. The exhibits cover multiple levels in the castle and provide an intriguing overview of the history of South Tyrol from its earliest beginnings to the modern era.

The exhibit signs and summaries are in German and Italian, but visitors can checkout an audio guide that is in English. The museum tour lasts about 50 minutes.

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Hiking to Tyrol Castle

The only way to reach Tyrol Castle is on foot. Trust us, this is a good thing. The hike to its gates is unforgettable. If views of the castle and vineyards riddled around it do not steal your breath away then the Texel mountain group in the distance certainly will.

The Falknerweg leads you to Tyrol Castle.

When arriving at the area by car, we suggest parking in one of two public lots located in Dorf Tirol. From there, cross the street walking uphill along the sidewalk until coming to a sign designating the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This beautiful path takes you past hotels, restaurants and vineyards eventually winding along the edge of a deep ravine where you can admire the picturesque Brunnenburg Castle — once home to the famous poet Ezra Pound.

Before rounding a corner to the castle you will pass through a 260-foot stone tunnel built in the 17th century. The entire walk takes 20-30 minutes depending on how much you pause to snap pictures or simply savor the historical and natural beauty all around.

TIP: The castle can also be reached from Merano by walking the Tappeiner Promenade. This route takes 2-3 hours but is what we consider one of the prettiest walks in Italy. It is our favorite way to reach Tyrol Castle.

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When to Visit Tyrol Castle

Visiting Tyrol Castle: Ancient Might of the Alps 10 — Morning clouds lift off the mountainside revealing Tyrol Castle.

Tyrol Castle is open to the public from mid-March to early December. Visit the castle’s official website to confirm dates and hours. Admission fees are € 7 per adult. Children and senior citizens receive discounted rates.

If you visit the castle during one of the weekends in December when it is hosting its traditional Christmas market, you can enjoy the castle at no charge. Seeing it at this time of year is especially charming.

Autumn is also a special time to visit as a wine stand off the Falknerweg offers the season’s new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grapevines while gazing at the castle and beyond. Sounds a touch romantic doesn’t it? Afterward, treat yourself to a hearty South Tyrolean meal at Biergarten am Schlossweg — a panoramic beer garden nearby.

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Symbols possess power. And in South Tyrol, there is perhaps no more powerful symbol than its coat of arms: the Red Tyrolean Eagle.

Spend any amount of time in South Tyrol and you can’t miss the ancient emblem of the eagle. Throughout the land, you’ll encounter it waving from red and white banners or gracing weathered walls wearing centuries of ruin. From our very first visit to South Tyrol, the brilliant red heraldic eagle captured our imagination.

According to historians, coats of arms arose during the 11th century. Knights of the period originally placed them on their shields to broadcast their battle-born accomplishments to enemies. Thus, the first coats of arms were unique to each warrior. In time, the emblems became uniform to represent family lineage and allegiances to a throne.

Churburg Castle with the flag of South Tyrol — The unifying symbol of South Tyrol can be found flying throughout the land.

By the 13th century, coats of arms were commonplace — stirring fear from banners in battle and high above the crenelated towers of strongholds. However, only royalty and those granted a king’s blessing could harness their representative might. When a royal family claimed one as their own it became a unifying symbol through the centuries. Each generation passed its coat of arms to the next.

Red Wings Rising

The earliest known depiction of South Tyrol’s Red Eagle coat of arms is found in Castle Tirol, a striking fortress constructed in the 1100s. This castle became the ancestral seat of the Counts of Tyrol, which ultimately wielded such power in the region they named an entire land. A remarkable feat considering no other castle in Europe can claim the same.

The Red Eagle coat of arms in Castle Tirol is located in the stronghold’s chapel above a portal. It is in fresco form, but even with nearly 900 years of wear much of the eagle’s red plume still boldly remains. Imagine how brilliant it must have been when knights wandered the castle’s halls.

Viewing the emblem in Castle Tirol casts it an almost mythical light. One comes away with a deeper understanding as to why those from the region see themselves as Tyrolean first rather than Italian or Austrian.

The Outlaw Hero of Tyrol

Through the centuries the Red Eagle of South Tyrol has been regarded as a symbol of freedom. Possibly no more so than in the early 1800s when Tyrolean patriot Andreas Hofer led peasant rebellions against French and Bavarian occupation and rule.

South Tyrol Hero - Andreas Hofer — *Homecoming of the Tyrolean Militia* – A painting by Franz Defregger from 1876 celebrating the return of Andreas Hofer and his men.

A common man from South Tyrol’s Passer Valley, Hofer possessed such magnetic eloquence and esteem that when he pronounced the famous line “Men, the time has come!”, his fellow countrymen valorously sprang into arms. His iron resolution, dauntless courage and burning love for Tyrol inspired thousands into deeds of valor and sacrifice for their motherland.

Labeling Hofer an outlaw, Napolean put a price on his head. A fellow countryman named Franz Raffl betrayed Hofer earning him notoriety as the “Judas of Tyrol”. On January 28, 1810, Napoleonic forces captured Hofer in a mountain hut at nearly 5,000 feet above the village of St. Martin just 11 miles north of Merano.

Andreas Hofer Denkmal, Merano, South Tyrol — **A bronze statue honoring Andreas Hofer was erected in Merano in 1914 to commemorate the centennial of Tyrol’s return to Austria after** Napoleon’s reign.

Under direct orders from Napolean, Hofer was executed by firing squad less than a month after his capture. He faced his fate with courage and dignity — refusing to kneel or be blindfolded.

Instead, he stared sternly at his murderers and when the commanding officer floundered in giving the order to shoot, Hofer gave it himself yelling “Fire!”. Even in certain death, he blazoned forward brandishing rare bravery few can muster.

An Ode to the Red Eagle of South Tyrol

Of Sun, Blood & Wine: The Red Eagle of South Tyrol 11

As much as the Red Tyrolean Eagle inspired the spirit of freedom long ago, it still does today. The emblem remains a unifying symbol of the land. In fact, many South Tyroleans can still recite the following ode to the winged warrior from ages past.

Why Are Thy Plumes So Red?

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ In part because I rest
On Ortler’s lordly crest;
There share I with the snow
The sunset’s crimson glow.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ From drinking of the wine
Of Etschland’s peerless vine;
Its juice so redly shines,
That it incarnadines.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red? “
My plumage hath been dyed
In blood my foes supplied;
Oft on my breast hath lain
That deeply purple stain.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“From suns that ﬁercely shine,
From draughts of ruddy wine,
From blood my foes have shed,—
From these am I so red.”

The Red Eagle Across the Land

South Tyrol doesn’t lack stunning sights to capture no matter where you wander in this Alpine-Mediterranean jewel. But whether beaming from the heavens or adorned in the subtlest of ways, we have always found the South Tyrolean flag and coat of arms a must to shoot whenever coming across it.

Below are a few unique Red Eagle scenes we have encountered during our travels.