Brixen

A Feast for Your Senses – The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

Crispy or soft? Salty or sweet? Plain or bedazzled? However you like your baked goods, a trip to South Tyrol is not complete without indulging in the heavenly goodness kneaded and rolled within its bakeries. South Tyroleans are masters at crafting fields of wheat, barley and rye into enticing creations of pure culinary magic.

Swing into a village “backerei” (bakery) or stroll through one of the many daily food markets dotting the land and you’ll discover ample opportunities to sample South Tyrol’s baked specialties. But if you really want to appreciate the region’s centuries-old baking traditions, the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market in Brixen (Bressanone) is a must-attend festival.

This delicious autumn celebration takes place the first weekend of each October in one of the most picturesque squares in South Tyrol — the Piazza del Duomo. There’s nothing quite like being able to touch, smell and taste countless baked goods while wandering amid splendid antiquity.

Delight Yourself in Brixen

Brixen is a natural choice to show off the oven-tending talents of South Tyroleans. This ancient town reigns as the cultural heart of the Valle Iscarco (Eisacktal Valley). And it is also home to one of its most endearing culinary traditions: Törggelen.

With more than 1,000 years of history echoing over its cobblestones, Brixen is the oldest town in South Tyrol. The golden-towered Cathedral of Brixen soars over the square offering a jaw-dropping backdrop for bakers and festival revelers alike.

Upon entering the piazza you could simply bask happily in the wood-fired bread aromas billowing into the sky. But the real joy comes when you succumb to the sweet temptations all around you.

South Tyrolean Baked Goods — The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market showcases bread and baked goods from 18 bakeries around South Tyrol.

The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market hosts 18 baked goods stands throughout the square. These inviting displays showcase the special concoctions of bakers from rural mountain valleys throughout South Tyrol. You’ll encounter baked delights born from age-old family recipes only known to a few.

The best way to enjoy the market is to leisurely walk the square discovering the fanciful flavors of traditional South Tyrolean favorites such as schüttelbrot (a crispy flatbread made from rye), krapfen (a doughnut-like pastry), apfelstrudel (apple strudel), Pusterer breatl (a special loaf from Puster Valley), Vingschger paarl (rye rolls from Vinschgau valley) and much more.

Upon entering the piazza you could simply bask happily in the wood-fired bread aromas billowing into the sky. But the real joy comes when you succumb to the sweet temptations all around you.

We were astonished by the number of unique baked specialties originating from South Tyrol. In fact, a quick flip through the definitive cookbook of South Tyrol, Alpine Flavours, reveals more than 20 individual baked goods recipes from the region. If you have an interest in embarking on South Tyrolean culinary adventures in your own kitchen, we highly recommend adding this cookbook to your shelf.

Demonstrating making dough in Brixen — Beyond indulging in sumptuous baked specialties, the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market conducts several baking demonstrations each day of the festival.

In between bouts of nibbling, you can watch bakers demonstrate the various processes, techniques and artistry South Tyroleans use to make tasty bread and other baked goodness. And if your legs need a rest, consider catching a carriage ride from the square to take in the sights of Brixen.

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Quality Fresh from the Mountain to the Oven

South Tyroleans place a high value on quality. The region’s bread, baked goods and pasta are no exception.

The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market presents a delectable introduction to the mouth-watering benefits of the South Tyrolean Seal of Quality. This coveted seal guarantees the use of natural ingredients, homemade sourdough and spices. To earn the seal bakers must not use any ready-made mixes, preservatives or flavor enhancers.

Traditional Apple Strudel — Bring your appetite. Savoring every bite of South Tyrolean apfelstrudel is a must while visiting the market.

Today, 54 South Tyrolean farmers grown grain in the Venosta, Pusteria and Isarco valleys to meet the bread and baked goods needs of the region. An independent inspection bureau conducts regular checks to ensure compliance with the specified quality regulations.

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How to Attend the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

Getting to the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market is as easy as buttering warm bread. Brixen is among the most walkable towns in South Tyrol.

If you are arriving by car, we suggest parking in the Parkplatz located just off of Via Dante (Dantestraße). A tunnel from the lot will lead you directly to the Piazza del Duomo. The walk is less than 5 minutes.

South tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market Attendees — The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market offers the perfect break from a day of hiking.

Visiting Brixen by public transportation is encouraged to support the festival’s green initiatives. For bus and train options and timetables, visit the festival’s arrival page.

The specific dates of the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market each fall can be found at the official Valle Isarco website.

After attending the market, be sure to explore the historic treasures of Brixen. The town is a must-see for any fan of history, art and architecture. And if you’re also a fan of wine do not miss visiting the Neustift Monastery located just outside of Brixen. It is one of the oldest operating wineries in the world.

A Swirl with Antiquity – Visiting the Abbey of Novacella

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only one can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world. Nestled just to the north of South Tyrol’s oldest town lies the Abbey of Novacella (also known as “Abbazia di Novacella” in Italian and “Kloster Neustift” in German).

This cultural treasure near Brixen was founded in 1142 — more than 875 years ago. It is among the most stunning historic destinations in South Tyrol. A symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid rolling vineyards and forested slopes.

Anyone admiring the Abbey of Novacella, from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The monastery boasts a labyrinth of structures, courtyards and walls showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo character from various epochs.

The history of Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Wandering the Vines of Novacella

We arrived at the Abbey of Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

Neustift Monastery Castle — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbey of Novacella.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks.

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery.

We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Abbey of Novacella Winery Vineyards — The vineyards of the Abbey of Novacella tumble down slopes to the foot of the monastery. Ancient dry stone walls ease the steepness and act like a furnace for the vines during the cool evenings.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of the Abbey of Novacella (officially labeled as “Abbazia di Novacella” in your wine shop) are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle “it’s better to have less but good”.

Elias Holzer and Kate discussing Novacella wines — Novacella sommelier, Elias Holzer, explaining the winemaking principles of the Abbey of Novacella (also commonly known as Neustift Monastery). Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast from the historic builings.

Following this tenet has guided Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. Novacella began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Admiring the historic Abbey of Novacella garden (also known as Neustift Monastery) — Admiring the natural splendor of the Abbey of Novacella garden.

We wandered on until overlooking the historical gardens of Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess gingko trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

Becoming One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land bearing virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Novacella expanded their operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

The winery of Abbazia di Novacella lies beneath our feet. — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us.

According to Elias, Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” Novacella even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water to precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

Abbazia di Novacella Wine Production — Elias shares how Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touch screen interface, Novacella sets the temperature of its stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

A Stroll Through the Ages

We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbey of Novacella Church Ceiling — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbey of Novacella church is among the finest in South Tyrol.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Striking Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

Towards the end of World War II all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Abbey of Novacella Wunderbrunnen — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean breads.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born from the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an every-day wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Elias promised that to taste it once, is to remember it forever. He was absolutely right.

Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to the Abbey of Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

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Experiencing the Magic of Christmas in Brixen

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

When a picturesque mountain town offers visitors more than 1,000 years of history, it’s difficult to imagine how it can become even more charming each year. But leave it to the passionate souls of Brixen (also known as Bressanone) to accomplish just that.

Each holiday season, this medieval gem near the Dolomites elevates enchantment through an authentic Christmas market paired with a one-of-a-kind light and music show within the 13th-century courtyard of the Hofburg, its famous Bishop’s Palace. Both are a must-experience for anyone relishing a feeling of awe that only Christmas morning can rival.

Merriment Beneath the Bell Towers’ Light

Brixen’s Christmas market sprinkles the season’s spirit on practically every cobblestone of the Piazza Duomo. Nearly 40 decorated stalls dot the piazza beneath the soaring bell towers of South Tyrol’s most cherished cathedral. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Cassiano was first erected in 980.

The stalls offer everything from handcrafted ornaments to scented delights to bread and Christmas cookies. Do not walk through this market without trying one of its gingerbread creations.

An antique carousel in the piazza’s center and an ice skating rink next to the Bishop’s Palace fills the atmosphere with spinning cheer. Thankfully, you can skip figuring out how to squeeze ice skates into your suitcase. They are available to rent for only a few euros.

Bressanone Christmas Market Stall — Thanks to an airline losing our luggage, we found the most comfortable socks in the world at the Brixen Christmas market!

Brixen Christmas market decor — Brixen’s Christmas market is a perfect place to discover the beautiful artisanship of South Tyroleans.

Beyond the dozens of stands selling South Tyrolean handmade goods, the market offers plenty of culinary specialties to tempt your eyes, nose and mouth. Perhaps the best bratwurst we ever had the pleasure of devouring came from Annemarie’s Standl. After finishing one we had to go back for another. We also nibbled on fresh krapfen, which was made on the spot by a lovely lady who was certainly someone’s Grandma.

The imaginative visual wizardry of NATALIE is utterly spellbinding.

Our night at the Brixen Christmas market was a bit on the nippy side so we warmed up with a couple of cups Glühwein…not that we needed an excuse to sip wine. If wine is not your go-to warm-up drink, you can also enjoy warm apple cider, which given the splendor of South Tyrol’s apples is practically as good as wine in our book. You can also cozy up to plenty of tables with a fire if the merry warmth found in a cup does not do the trick.

Making Krapfen at the Brixen Christmas Market — A lady rolling the Christmas spirit into tasty treats known as krapfen.

Watching Ancient Walls Burst into Life

After indulging in the charm of Brixen’s Christmas market, dazzle your eyes and ears by taking in the light and music show “NATALIE” at the Bishop’s Palace located on the south end of the Piazza Duomo. Created with the internationally acclaimed French light artists Spectaculaires – Allumeurs d’Images, the show whisks you away to a fairy tale world within the regal setting of the palace’s courtyard.

The imaginative visual wizardry of NATALIE is utterly spellbinding. The ancient walls surrounding you in the courtyard burst into life with a kaleidoscope of colors, imagery and song. Suddenly, you’re immersed in a fantasy where the palace lives and breathes.

An actress playing the role of Natalie interacts with the dancing facade singing through a story about a young maid awakening the soul of the Hofburg. She is commanded to throw a great celebration for the residents of Brixen — embarking on a magical adventure filled with a myriad of colorful characters.

Taking photos and video of the show is not only permitted, but encouraged. Below you’ll find a few of our favorite images from our evening with NATALIE.

Natalie Light Musical Show at Hofburg Palace — Taking in the light and music show, NATALIE, is a must when visiting South Tyrol during the Christmas season.

The story is told in a mix of German an Italian, but that did not detract from our enjoyment or ability to understand its essence. The show runs approximately 20 minutes. Since it takes place in the open-air of the courtyard it’s wise to bundle up.

This season marks the first year for NATALIE. In previous years, a light and music show called “Soliman’s Dream” was held in the courtyard of the palace. It creatively re-imagined the time when Brixen welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman required rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north.

Brixen welcomed the elephant with open arms. Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. The inn where Soliman stayed still stands and welcomes guests to this day. Appropriately named Hotel Elephant, a centuries-old fresco on the oldest part of the hotel’s facade continues to tell the tale of what was certainly an exotic and magical creature to the residents of Brixen at the time.

When to Visit Brixen’s Christmas Market

Brixen’s Christmas market begins in late November and ends the first week of January. Exact dates can change year to year so be sure to visit the official event schedule before planning a trip. On most days the market opens at 10 am and closes at 7-7:30 pm. The food stands are open an hour longer to ensure enough good cheer is spread to each visitor.

NATALIE takes place through the duration of the Christmas market. Shows occur three a day at 5:30 pm, 6:30 pm and 7:30 pm (except December 24th-25th). Prices vary depending on the day, but are very reasonable at € 7-€10 for adults and € 1-€6 for children.

You could easily spend a full day exploring in and around Brixen. Any lover of history, architecture, art and wine would be a fool not to. But if you’re looking to just enjoy the Brixen Christmas market and NATALIE, then we recommend arriving two hours before your show.

Dessert at Restaurant Fink — We attempted to capture a shot of our dessert at Restaurant Fink prior to diving in, but it evaded us. As we learned, sweets at this South Tyrolean treasure have a tendency to swiftly disappear.

Restaurant Fink is a delightful place to eat either before or after the show if you still have room after wandering the Christmas Market. Their dessert dishes are divine. The restaurant is conveniently located in Brixen’s old town. It is one of only 25 establishments in South Tyrol to earn the official designation “Südtiroler Gasthaus”. This means Restaurant Fink meets the rigid standards necessary to ensure guests an authentic South Tyrolean dining experience.

Getting to Brixen – Let Enchantment be Your Guide

Getting to Brixen is easy. It is located right off Autostrada A22 and is just 30 minutes northeast of Bolzano. We had no problems finding parking near the town center. Winding through its cobblestone alleys to the Piazza Duomo is a delight all by itself.

Concerned about driving? Don’t be. Anyone with common sense and a little pre-trip prep can handle it. Check out our post on driving in Italy for practical tips.

Brixen beams with charm no matter the season. But the holidays are an especially enchanting time in this corner of South Tyrol. Wandering the town’s Christmas market offers an endless assortment of enticing traditional South Tyrolean specialties and handmade creations. You’ll come away in awe at the talented craftsmanship of artisans from the region. And not to mention no shortage of treasured gifts for the loved ones in your life.