Bolzano

Sun-kissed in South Tyrol – Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen

Spend an afternoon in the South Tyrolean capital of Bolzano, and you just may find yourself wondering what is the secret behind the ancient town’s pervading “la dolce vita” spirit.

You might think it’s the 300 days of glorious sunshine pouring over its old world rooftops. Or the quaint romantic sights, markets and cafes dotting nearly every corner. Or you might think it’s the surrounding natural beauty: perhaps the distant spear-tip mountain peaks inviting discovery or the lush Mediterranean flora swaying carefree in the Alpine wind.

Yes, you might think all of this and more, but you’d be wrong.

The answer we found is wine. Lots and lots of delicious wine.

An old saying shared with us more than once while breezily strolling over the cobblestones of Bolzano is, “Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine.”

This truth was never more evident to us than when we embarked on a tour of Kellerei Bozen — a 100+-year-old award-winning winery fantastically carved into a mountainside on the northern end of town.

In this post, we take you behind the scenes of Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bolzano in Italian) to introduce its lovely wines and show you how to visit this must-see architectural marvel while in South Tyrol.

In the Land of Sun, Soul & Swirl

We meandered to Kellerei Bozen from the medieval core of Bolzano. It was a pleasant 40-minute walk under the mellow rays of the early afternoon sun.

The route led us past historic buildings boldly wearing centuries of Italian and German influence, well-manicured parks peppered with sun-loving patrons and bustling arcades adorned with restaurants and shops.

Gradually, the buildings became more sparse. Rock-riddled mountains rolling into the sky joined us on our right. Soon, we were gliding by vineyards gently easing up the slopes. Ahead of us, we noticed an immense bronze-gilded cube shimmering like a beacon for Bacchus amid the vines.

If the cube was indeed a beacon for Bacchus, this was surely the god of wine's bunker.

As we approached the tantalizing structure, we could make out the lines of a grapevine leaf gracing its metallic veneer. It imparted a sleek, stylish flair that made the building appear as a work of art.

A long concrete retaining wall swirled down from the cube meeting us the on the sidewalk where it transitioned into timeworn stacks of stone. On the wall, a sign for Kellerei Bozen announced our arrival.

Kellerei Bozen Wines — Kellerei Bozen’s signature design feature is a majestic vine-leafed cube that illuminates beautifully in the evening.

The astounding design of the winery was fully revealed as we walked towards its entrance. Beyond the gleaming cube, it seemingly blended harmoniously into the earth. Most of the winery’s wizardry laid hidden beneath terraced rows of newly-planted grapevines that careened towards the mountain’s edge. If the cube was indeed a beacon for Bacchus, this was surely the god of wine’s bunker.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Discovering Bolzano – The Gateway to the Dolomites

Two Became One – The Birth of Kellerei Bozen

We walked inside the cube and found Johanna Senn, Kellerei Bozen marketing manager, enthusiastically waiting for us. Naturally, after admiring the winery’s striking design for much of our walk, we began our visit inquiring about the history of the building and Kellerei Bozen.

She led us around the winery grounds while sharing its story. Kellerei Bozen we learned was born from the merger of two historic South Tyrolean wineries. In 2001, St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery came together. The merger brought 224 wine-growing families into a single cooperative — creating one of the largest in South Tyrol.

Kellerei Bozen Winery Operation — Kellerei Bozen remains one of the largest wine cooperatives in South Tyrol thanks to the merger of St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery.

Each winery possessed its own specialty. Established in 1930, the St. Magdalena Winery excelled at producing St. Magdalener ⁠— a red wine made from a blend of Schiava (also known as Vernatsh) and Lagrein grapes. The Gries Winery began 22 years earlier with a focus on cultivating exceptional Lagrein.

Now, we knew why Bolzano is said to swim in wine. Vino practically pours down the mountainsides.

Despite the merger, the wineries continued operating at separate locations until moving to this new mountainside estate in August 2018. The new winery is the result of an Elon Musk-like vision that first began in 2006 and eventually took shape starting in 2016.

Johanna noted the signature design feature of the winery, the vine-leafed cube, artistically symbolizes Kellerei Bozen as a pioneering leader in viticulture innovation and green cultivation. However, the metallic sheathing’s purpose isn’t only decorative. She also shared that it supports the winery’s eco-friendly cooling efforts by filtering sunlight.

The Many Vines of Kellerei Bozen

Next, Johanna led us to the rooftop of the winery where we walked out to the cube’s edge. From here, we enjoyed a sprawling view of Bolzano with the Rosengarten peaks of the Dolomites looming far away on the horizon.

From the rooftop of Kellerei Bozen, marketing manager, Johanna Senn, gave us a sweeping view of the vineyards tumbling to the gates of Bolzano.

Johanna brought our attention to the sea of vineyards swelling to the edges of town. It was astonishing. Now, we knew why Bolzano is said to swim in wine. Vino practically pours down the mountainsides.

From many of these vineyards, Kellerei Bozen cultivates 15 different grape varieties yielding a diverse portfolio of 37 wines with an almost even split between white and red. These grapes arise from 350 hectares (865 acres) at elevations varying between 650+ ft. (200 meters) and 3,280+ ft. (1,000 meters) above sea level. They flourish among numerous microclimates and soil types.

Bolzano Vineyards — Yes, Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine….a view of Bolzano and the sea of vineyards on St. Magdalener hill (©IDM Südtirol-Alto Adige / Clemens Zahn).

Johanna pointed towards the sunny slopes rising into a mountain called Renon just beyond Bolzano. We landed our gaze on an area known as St. Magdalener hill. It is home to Kellerei Bozen’s Schiava grape. The sandy, gravel-like soil and abundance of sunshine make the steep slope perfect for producing easy drinking Schiavas that are elegant and fruit forward.

She then focused our eyes on the vineyards stretching near the winery in a district called Gries. This is where its Lagrein grapes grow. They thrive in the valley bottom amid porous, rich alluvial soil that basks under the steady beat of the sun.

Kellerei Bozen Grape Vines — The future of wine? Newly-planted fungus-resistant grapevines crown the “roof” of Kellerei Bozen.

Johanna noted Kellerei Bozen’s white varietals such as Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio lie in the highest elevation vineyards of Renon and above Bolzano, as well as further south in an area called Missiano.

We asked about the newly planted vines adorning the winery and were surprised to discover they are a new grape varietal called PIWI (A German acronym pronounced “pee-vee”). These naturally fungus-resistant varietals comprise a winemaking experiment Kellerei Bozen is conducting to see if they can viably support its sustainable viticulture practices.

Producing wine with the utmost respect towards the environment and future generations is a governing principle of Kellerei Bozen. Not only do its winegrowers labor rigorously to harvest the best quality grapes, but they also employ green cultivation techniques whenever possible to care for the vine, fruit and soil.

Wine From the Top Down

Kate & Johanna at Kellerei Bozen — Kellerei Bozen is one of the first wineries in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” certification.

This commitment to sustainability does not end at the vineyard. Johanna proudly pointed out the new winery is one of the first in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” seal. This certifies the state-of-art winemaking operation meets strict standards aimed at minimizing resource and energy use. To give us a better sense for what this means, Johanna brought us back inside to reveal what lies beneath the mountain.

Once fermentation is complete the wines descend ever deeper into the earth.

By constructing much of the 65,000+ sq. ft. estate under the earth, Kellerei Bozen can cool its production and maturation areas naturally. For hot water production, the winery burns wood pellets — an efficient renewable energy resource that is carbon neutral. Even the processing of grapes into mouth-pleasing wine is accomplished with an eye on reducing energy use at each step.

The new winery descends several levels allowing gravity to move the grapes from beginning to end. This top-down or vertical production design ensures grapes gently journey through every phase in the most environmentally-friendly manner. Additionally, it enables Kellerei Bozen to elevate the quality of its wines with the ability to isolate individual plot characteristics through a number of vinification tanks and barrels.

Winery Tour — Johanna explains how Kellerei Bozen uses vertical processing to gently transform grapes into world-class wines.

As we followed Johanna down to the first level, she shared that the winery processes its white and red grapes differently. After making their first descent down from the dropping station at the top, white grapes are crushed, pressed and then transported vertically to towering steel fermentation tanks. Red grapes, on the other hand, after destemming and crushing pass directly to much smaller wood barrels and steel tanks.

The reason for this according to Johanna is to facilitate greater contact of the grape must with the skin. This process, known as maceration, means the red grape skins are left to soak in their own juices to soften and release the qualities that give red wine its color, body, mouth-feel and ability to age.

Furthermore, Kellerei Bozen uses a “delestage” fermentation process, also referred to as “rack and return”. After the grape musts, skins and seeds settle at the top of the fermenting container, the winery pumps the wine into a reserve vat. The remaining solids are pressed again with the wine ultimately poured back over the top of the re-pressed skins and seeds. This boosts the color, flavor, tannins and aromas of the wine.

Once fermentation is complete the wines descend ever deeper into the earth. Kellerei Bozen’s maturation cellar is located in the lowest level of the winery. Here, red and white wines age into exemplary form in vast rows of French oak barriques. The large number of barrels allows Kellerei Bozen to separate development of wines to bring about even higher quality vintages.

Within the Cube – Tasting Kellerei Bozen Wines

When we finished touring the cellars, Johanna brought us back upstairs for a tasting in the Vinarius wine shop, located in the gleaming cube at the winery’s front. It offers an enthralling setting to sip and browse Kellerei Bozen’s extensive wine portfolio.

Johanna began our tasting with two whites from Kellerei Bozen’s Selection line, which exhibits the best possible interplay between grape variety, soil texture and microclimate. We followed the whites up with our first introduction to St. Magdalener along with a tasing of the winery’s best seller from its Riserva line (can you guess which wine?).

Kellerei Bozen “Dellago” Weissburgunder (Pinot Bianco). Pinot Bianco discovered its soul in South Tyrol. It was brought to the region from Austria in 1850. The superior soil conditions and wide temperature swings between day and night helped elevate the varietal to world-class esteem. The Dellago from Kellerei Bozen certainly lives up to these lofty expectations.

It hails from the Dellago family vineyards in Missiano to the south and boasts a long list of awards. We noticed green apples on the nose and found it delicious; elegant yet with a fuller body than we anticipated. Johanna shared that part of the wine is aged in French oak imparting a slight creaminess. Because of this, we could definitely see ourselves enjoying it with pasta or chicken dishes. It is nicely priced at $13-$14.

Kellerei Bozen “Mock” Sauvignon. This Sauvignon Blanc was a pleasant surprise. It’s a full-bodied wine, but drank easy. We immediately noticed a scent of elderflower, which always brings a smile to our lips. It was fresh, fruity, tangy with just the right amount of crisp. It’s a complex number born of all steel. Johanna indicated the Mock Sauvignon would make an excellent choice with fish, asparagus and salads. $25-26.

Kellerei Bozen “Moar” St. Magdalener. To say we were excited to sip St. Magdalener for the first time is an understatement. For us, trying new wines in South Tyrol is worth the trip alone. All the snow-crested mountains, centuries-old castles and pristine Alpine lakes are just cherries on top of a visit.

Kellerei Bozen St. Magdalener — The St. Magdalener Moar we purchased met a quick end at our table.

Johanna was our perfect tasting coach. She reminded us St. Magdalener is a blend of 85% Schiava and 15% Lagrein. In the glass, it was similar to ruby red, but in a way exhibited its very own distinct color. Almost as if it were a precious gem only found in South Tyrol.

On the nose and in the mouth, it was fruity, light and offered a medium finish. We enjoyed raspberries with a hint of vanilla thanks to its aging in oak barrels. We appreciated it as another easy drinking red. One we would certainly sip while nibbling on speck and other cold cuts or just while relaxing in the summer. $16-$17.

Kellerei Bozen “Taber Riserva” Lagrein. Not only is this Lagrein Kellerei Bozen’s best seller, but it’s also the winery’s most award-winning wine. It has received the coveted “three glasses” designation from Gambero Rosso for the past 19 years.

The Taber Riserva owes much of its beauty, inside and out, to 80-year old vines springing from the sun-baked soil of Gries, which practically resides right outside the winery’s front door. That’s not to take credit away from the winegrowers or the expert handling of Kellerei Bozen’s highly-regarded winemaker, Stephan Filippi. They contribute just as much to conjuring a Lagrein that is deeply red, intense yet velvety and possessing a roaring chorus of floral, cherry and chocolate notes.

Kate Tasting Lagrein — Kellerei Bozen’s “Taber Riserva” Lagrein has received “3 glasses” from Gambero Rosso each of the past 19 years.

We loved its earthy spiciness. It’s a wine we could uncork every night…if we were dining on red meat or wild game. $38-$40.

We wrapped up our time with Johanna by taking a little of Kellerei Bozen with us. We eagerly purchased a bottle of the St. Magdalener Moar. It was time we made ourselves more familiar with this delightful South Tyrolean red.

How to Visit Kellerei Bozen

You can reach Kellerei Bozen by venturing from old town Bolzano as we did or you can arrive by car or public transport as it is located immediately off the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Parking is available upfront.

On future visits to Kellerei Bozen, we will not likely walk to the winery again for the sake of saving time. However, if you have not explored much of Bolzano there is no better way to do so than by foot. Consider a historic trek to the winery as your first option.

By the way, an unforgettable way to explore the wineries of South Tyrol is to stay at one of the many family-owned wine estates with villas along the wine road. Check out our recent stay at Donà Winery for inspiration.

Kellerei Bozen offers guided tours for small groups. Tour requests must be made prior to visiting. You can embark on a wine tasting every day in the wine shop except on Sundays. The shop is open from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM.

Be sure to ask for Kellerei Bozen at your local wine shop. With 3+ million bottles of wine distributed throughout the U.S. and Europe each year, there’s a good chance you can uncork a bottle or two this weekend.

We would like to give special thanks to Johanna Senn of Kellerei Bozen. We could not have asked for a better introduction to Kellerei Bozen and its exceptional wines!

SAVE KELLEREI BOZEN TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST

Unearthing Ancient Secrets – Encounters with Ötzi the Iceman

By Kate & Vin 13 Comments

It’s not every day you come face to face with a man who is 5,300 years old. It’s even rarer to get an interview with him. But through the wizardry of a Ouija board, endless billows of incense and ample pours of South Tyrolean wine we were able to go for a hike in the spirit world with Ötzi the Iceman.

If his name doesn’t ring a bell, you may have been entombed in a block of ice the last 28 years. In 1991, a couple of hikers stumbled on a sight only an archaeologist would love to see. Ötzi’s partial corpse surfaced from a melting glacier located at 10,530 feet in the Ötztal Alps of South Tyrol. At the time, it was thought he may have been a soldier from one of the world wars, but it was soon discovered he was a much, much older warrior.

This riveting interview reveals facts on Ötzi the Iceman in a way you will not find anywhere else. We found him to be pleasant, a bit gruff and a character with an Ice Age-size sense of humor.

In the end, we dive into how you can visit Ötzi in Bolzano. If you want to speak with him yourself, we can make that happen too. For a small fee and a couple of cases of Lagrein we will gladly serve as your spiritual medium.

From the Lips of Ötzi

Without further ado, here’s our candid conversation with the coolest man to ever walk Earth:

Throne & Vine: You have been “free” from your icy tomb for almost 30 years now. That must have been liberating after thousands of years.

Ötzi: To be honest, my situation isn’t much different today than it was 10,000+ feet up the mountain. Although I have to say Bolzano is a lovely town. It’s amazing when you think about it, but when they discovered my body, new technologies had to be invented to continue my preservation. I am now kept in a specially designed, ice-freezing cold chamber that mimics the climatic conditions of the glacier where I was found. The temperature of the chamber is kept precisely at a frosty 21.2 °F (-6°C ) with 99% humidity. Two other cold chambers with the same design also exist.

Throne & Vine: Wait a second, why do you need two additional chambers?

Ötzi: One additional chamber is for performing scientific research on my mummified body. The other is located at the Bolzano hospital. In the event, there was some unforeseen power failure at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, I could be rushed to the hospital to be “saved”. Which is kind of ironic since I am already dead.

Throne & Vine: Ah yes, that is a funny way to look at it. Your mummified body is the oldest ever found in Europe. How did it manage to survive for so long?

Ötzi: I like to think I had something to do with it, but to be frank the only reason my body is still around is pure luck. You see before dying I keeled over into a small gully bordered by massive boulders. It was snowing at the time so I was soon buried under a blanket of white. As the centuries turned, the Niederjoch Glacier crept over the gully entombing me in ice. Unbelievably, the boulders protected my body from being pummeled.

The discovery site of Otzi — The discovery site of Ötzi in 1991 (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

Throne & Vine: Scientists have determined you lived somewhere between 3239-3107 B.C. during the late Neolithic period. Are there any trends from back then that are still with us today?

Ötzi: Absolutely! That period gave rise to several notable innovations. For example, the wheel. It was invented in Slovenia, which is not too far from South Tyrol.

Throne & Vine: What about cuisine? Any dishes that are still popular?

Ötzi: Being that we did not have any grocery stores back in the day, we had to hunt and gather everything we ate. That meant a steady diet of red deer, wild goat and porridge made from grains. In fact, the hour before my murder I devoured some ibex meat. Travelers today can still savor this wild game and more when visiting mountain huts in South Tyrol. You’ll love it!

Throne & Vine: Um you said you were murdered? Care to elaborate?

Ötzi: I can’t say much per my legal team until the investigation is officially over, but yes I was slain with an arrow through my back. The arrowhead struck with such a force it broke my left shoulder. I bled out in a matter of minutes.

A few days earlier, I was involved in an altercation. A spirited scrap you could say. One that resulted in a deep cut in my right hand. A couple of hard blows on my noggin and a fracture to my left eye socket. If I had to guess, the lethal arrow came from the bow of that fella. That’s just speculation of course.

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: What kind of tools and weapons did you have to defend yourself against enemies and the elements?

Ötzi: Well I was always good with my fists, but you’d have to be a fool to trek through the Alps then without a survival kit. On my belt, I kept a flint stone dagger and the oldest medicine kit ever found.

Throne & Vine: You had a medicine kit?

Ötzi: That’s right. You see at the time of my death I was battling several ailments. Not a surprise really given I was in my mid-forties, which was quite old at the time.

One of the more annoying ailments I suffered was intestinal parasites. Nasty little buggers known as whipworms. I kept a couple of pieces of birch fungus threaded through strips of hide. Our ancestors knew this fungus was quite toxic to the whipworms so I ingested it as necessary.

Otzi X-Ray Display — The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology includes a touchscreen display that visually presents fascinating facts on Ötzi.

Throne & Vine: What else did you bring on your journey?

Ötzi: My most prized possession was my copper-bladed axe. Until it was found next to my corpse, no one believed we had developed the skills yet to forge such a beauty. It’s 99% pure copper. A true masterpiece in metalwork and the only one of its kind left in the world.

The copper came from hundreds of miles away in a region called Tuscany. The blade was cast in a mold and hammered into cutting shape. I then fixed it to a wooden shaft, carved from a yew tree, using leather straps and tar to hold it in place. It was still intact when discovered.

The copper used the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions. — The copper blade used in the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions.

Since copper axes were rare and valuable in my time, only held by men of high status, it’s puzzling as to why my murderer didn’t snatch it after felling me. Seems like a clue the investigators should consider.

I also carried with me a longbow, arrows and a quiver. The bow was crafted from a yew tree as well. She was a work in progress though. Was really hoping to her have done before trekking up Similaun mountain. Perhaps you’d be talking with a different “Iceman” today if that was the case. Anywho, the bow was taller than me to allow for shots up to 150 feet away. I’m 5′ 2″ tall and the bow ran 5’9″. My quiver held 14 arrows in total, but only two were finished.

The quiver was made from the hide of a roe deer and the arrows from viburnum wood. Like my dagger, the arrowheads were made of flint. Speaking of my dagger, you can actually purchase a killer replica of it. The Ötzi knife makes a great gift for the hunter or history lover in your life. Sorry for the shameless plug.

By the way, among the most important items I carried was fire.

Throne & Vine: How does one carry fire? Assume you didn’t have matches.

Ötzi: No matches. I had something better. I made a round container by rolling the bark of a birch tree. Inside, I kept charcoal embers wrapped in maple leaves from my last fire. The leaves kept the embers alive so to speak. Whenever I needed a fire to stay warm or to cook meat all I had to do was fan the embers. In a matter of seconds, I had a flame.

Throne & Vine: The weather in the Alps can be unforgiving. How else did you stay warm? What did you wear for clothing?

Ötzi: Well I was quite a fashionable man back in the day. What you might consider a “lumbersexual” today. The difference being I actually know how to use an axe. My attire came from multiple animals. This prevented me from getting cold and wet.

On my head, I sported a bearskin cap that I won in an arm wrestling match. My coat ran down to my knees and consisted of sheep and goat hides stitched together with animal tendons.

Otzi bearskin hat — The bearskin cap found near the body of Ötzi. It included chin straps to secure it against high mountain winds (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

My legs were also covered in sheep and goat hides supported by a calfskin belt. Instead of underwear, I wore a loincloth made from sheep hide and kept together by my belt.

Throne & Vine: Did you have any kind of special footwear?

Ötzi: I certainly did. I wore primitive shoes consisting of deer hide stitched to the outside of netting made from lime tree bast. I stuffed grass under the netting for warmth. When my feet got wet, I just replaced the grass. The sole of my feet walked on the soft fur of the deer hide. I secured the shoes to each foot using string.

Throne & Vine: We heard you also sport several tattoos. Is there a story behind them?

Ötzi: Yeah my body is riddled with tattoos. I lost count, but supposedly scientists found 61 on my corpse. These had nothing to do with looking cool or tough. My bearskin cap does that on its own. My tattoos were for therapeutic purposes. Many of them are located near my joints such as my wrist and ankles. Back then we treated tattooing as an early form of acupuncture.

A scientist examining Otzi. — A scientist examining the body of Ötzi (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology/EURAC/Samadelli/Staschitz).

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: A major motion picture was recently released re-imagining your life and death. What are your thoughts on it?

Ötzi: Loved it! The movie “Iceman” is a spectacle all should see. Sure Hollywood takes some liberties with my story, but the settings and costumes are spot on when it comes to showing what life was like 5,300 years ago. My only gripe is that Brad Pitt should have played me. We share the same tattoos after all.

Throne & Vine: What is it like to be one of the greatest scientific discoveries of all time?

Ötzi: I’d prefer to have never been found. When glaciers melt, the world changes.

Otzi & Ibex — Weapons found near Ötzi indicate he was an avid hunter. His last meal was ibex. Consumed just hours before his death.

Throne & Vine: Point taken. We’ve heard you called Ötzi the Iceman, Frozen Fritz and even Similaun Man. Do you have a favorite?

Ötzi: Any of those are fine. Doubt anyone could pronounce my real name. And I don’t have a clue how to spell it.

Throne & Vine: What else do you want people to know about you?

Ötzi: I love getting visitors. Everyone visiting South Tyrol needs to come by the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano. My body and belongings are there for all to see, as well as exhibits detailing more about my life, death and discovery. You can stand eye-to-eye with me thanks to an incredibly detailed 3D model of what I looked like thousands of years ago. The museum also covers how modern science has unearthed all of my secrets so far. But I promise I still hold more (gives a good belly laugh).

Throne & Vine: We can’t agree more. All should take the time to see the museum. Do you have any final words for our readers?

Ötzi: Yeah, stay frosty…like me.

How to Visit Ötzi the Iceman

Seeing Ötzi at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology should be a part of your day when visiting Bolzano. More than 5 million people from all over the world have walked through the museum since its opening in 1998.

The museum is world class immersing you into the world of Ötzi through novel displays and multimedia exhibits. Plan on 1-2 hours to walk through the museum.

When you reach the window to peer into Ötzi, the sight of his actual mummified body is exhilarating and humbling at the same time. We came away with a new perspective on the history of mankind.

See Ötzi up close at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano.

The displays include English descriptions so you will not have to muscle through deciphering German or Italian phrases if that is a concern. The museum also houses other fascinating findings revealing a complete archaeological history of South Tyrol.

Like all of Bolzano’s stunning sights, it’s easy to reach the museum on foot. It is near the historic heart of Bolzano off Museumstraße street just past the famous Piazza delle Erbe — a centuries-old outdoor marketplace full of fresh goodness.

We highly recommend a guided tour as you will undoubtedly have questions about Ötzi that arise as you go through the museum. To ensure one is available, you will need to make a tour reservation request in advance.

If you decide not to participate in a guided tour, we still recommend purchasing your tickets online before visiting the museum.

Another adventure you may want to consider while in South Tyrol is hiking to the glacier where Ötzi was discovered.

PIN TO SAVE ÖTZI TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD!

We like to give special thanks to Selita Corradini for leading us on an exceptional tour of the Ötzi exhibit. Her enthusiasm for Ötzi is contagious!

Your Guide to Visiting Bolzano – The Gateway to the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 48 Comments

With the snow-dusted Dolomites boldly calling beyond its vine-drenched hillsides, Bolzano, Italy embraces you and seductively whispers an enticing blend of cultures deep into your being…

A VISIT TO BOLZANO — or Bozen as it is also known — immerses you in centuries of German, Italian and Austrian influences not to mention a riveting history that surpasses ancient Rome by 3,000 years. Often referred to as “The Gateway to the Dolomites”, this vibrant capital of South Tyrol crystalizes why the region is one of the must-see hidden gems of Europe.

Tucked between Innsbruck to the north and Trento to the south, Bolzano boasts a quality of life that ranks at the top in Italy. No surprise considering it balances all the perks of a youthful city with old-world charm and sensibilities — all amid jaw-dropping natural splendor. In fact, venturing from Bolzano to the Dolomites takes less than 30 minutes.

In this article, we help you discover Bolzano’s lasting charm. With our step-by-step guide, you’ll enjoy an unforgettable time in South Tyrol’s most cosmopolitan city.

What to Do in Bolzano

#1 Ease into a Sun-kissed Morning

Head to the historic center of the city. Start your day with a hot chocolate, cappuccino or tea at one of Bolzano’s cozy street-side cafes. Joviality will join you the second you take a seat. The Mediterranean climate in this part of South Tyrol makes enjoying morning’s light next to divine. Sit back and watch the city come to life.

Go full South Tyrolean by ordering up a freshly-baked krapfen. Krapfen is a delicious doughnut-like pastry filled with apricot or jam marmalade. Careful, as one may turn into two.

While relaxing install the BZMobile app — the official guide to visiting Bolzano — on your smartphone. The app lets you flip through a comprehensive list of attractions, restaurants, walks and more.

Now take a deep breath. It’s okay. You’re not going to see everything Bolzano offers in one day — this is a dolce vita town made for lazy strolls that effortlessly spill into meandering conversations over lattes and wine.

Now is a good time to plan to stay in the area longer. If that’s doable, consider obtaining the Bolzano Bozen Card. This card is complimentary at participating hotels and provides free access to numerous museums in Bolzano and 90 other museums throughout South Tyrol. Included with the card are English-speaking city tours and guided excursions from Bolzano to the Dolomites National Park, along with free use of all public transportation throughout South Tyrol.

#2 Visit Bolzano’s Poetic Heart

The best way to discover a city is through its culinary traditions. You can embark on such a mouth-pleasing adventure through the Bolzano Street Food Tour. This 2 ½ hour outing begins at 10:00 a.m. and includes 5 stops where you’ll indulge in local specialties such as bread, sausage, sweets, as well as historical nuggets shared by your tour guide.

this is a dolce vita town made for lazy strolls that effortlessly spill into meandering conversations over lattes and wine.

If you enjoyed one too many krapfens, a morning food tour may not be for you. In that case, set off on your own to see some of Bolzano’s treasured sights. The perfect starting point is the city’s “living room” or Waltherplatz, which is the town square.

At the center looms a remarkable statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, a renowned poet and Minnesinger from the Middle Ages believed to have been born in South Tyrol. He was the Jim Morrison of the medieval age. Sculpted in 1889 from South Tyrol’s revered Lasser marble, the statue stands on an impressive fountain encircled by flowers.

Christmas Market in Bolzano — Waltherplatz hosts a variety of special events throughout the year including the oldest Christmas market in Italy.

Walther Square in Bolzano, the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide — Of all the things to do in Bolzano, paying homage to the great Walther von der Vogelweide is a must. His remarkable marble monument watches over sun-lovers reveling in Waltherplatz.

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The Waltherplatz is the ideal spot for lingering and people watching. From late November to early January, it hosts one of Italy’s largest Christmas markets. The square comes alive like a wintry fairy tale with puppet shows, festive pastries, ample cups of Glühwein, horse-drawn carriage rides and 80+ stalls of seasonal gifts, treats and crafts. If you’re visiting Bolzano at this time, we highly recommend taking public transportation instead of driving due to the popularity of this market.

The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes Bolzano a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you've left.

From the square, it’s impossible to miss the Gothic-Romanesque cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, which is the largest Gothic church in South Tyrol. The cathedral was originally constructed in the 12th century and took on its Gothic form in the 14th century.

Crowning the cathedral is an ornately patterned roof matching the vibrancy of the square. Its steepled bell tower chisels into the sky. The stonework is striking. Two weathered lions guard its entrance and form the base of two columns supporting an archway. A massively forged door with curious carvings of the Isarco river and the Dolomites welcomes worshipers.

Inside, lovers of medieval art can enjoy frescoes from the 1300s and marvel at the cathedral’s pulpit. It is a masterful work of Gothic art sculpted in 1507. While visiting, see if you can spot the hunter and fox lingering within its etchings.

Bolzano Church Pulpit from 1507 — Towering next to Bolzano’s bustling Waltherplatz lies Our Lady of the Assumption — the largest Gothic church in South Tyrol. A medieval masterpiece inside and out.

#3 Wander Where the Streets Have No Lame

Leaving the cathedral, head to the Via Portici (also called Laubengasse) just north of the square. This street was the first to ever run through Bolzano. A pulsating center of trade for nearly 1,000 years, arcaded shops now greet you on both sides for as far as the eye can see.

You can simply walk along appreciating the many storefronts, but the real gems are inside. You’ll find everything from traditional crafts and attire to designer clothing, shoes and more.

Even if you don’t intend to purchase any goods, be sure to peek into a few shops. Many walls still showcase ancient frescoes revealing age-old market scenes.

While the shops are fun to explore, the colorful facades lining the Via Portici really bring your imagination to life. They vividly exhibit a melodic blend of Italian and German architectural influences decorated with murals, carvings and other artistic expressions.

Bolzano Arcaded Shops — If you can’t decide what to do in Bolzano first, engage in a bit of retail therapy. The arcaded shops running along the Via Portici have been attracting shoppers since 1180!

Along Via Portici, you’ll also find the Mercantile Museum and Mercantile Palace founded by Claudia de‘ Medici. This is the only Renaissance-style building in Bolzano.

It once served as a court of justice for the Mercantile Court. Today, the museum tells the fascinating story of Bolzano’s economic importance through the centuries.

#4 Enjoy an Authentic South Tyrolean Lunch

After consuming so much history, art and architecture it’s only natural to settle in for a long lunch. Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele.

A cultural gem of Bolzano, the establishment was first mentioned in 1277 and held secret gatherings in World War II. Gaining entrance to these meetings required whispering “Vögele”, which means “little bird”.

Wirsthaus Vögele is a member of Sudtiroler Gasthaus — an organization dedicated to carefully preserving South Tyrolean restaurant culture and quality. The restaurant conjures a cozy atmosphere with a winding assortment of dining rooms each offering its own ambiance.

If you’re visiting Bolzano during asparagus season in April or May, be sure to try a dish with “spargel”. Our asparagus risotto was as good as a sweetly sung melody from Walther von der Vogelweide himself!

Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele.

Another excellent choice for lunch is the Stadt Cafe & Restaurant which sits along the edge of the Waltherplatz. Expansive windows on the front, as well as an outdoor seating area, allow you to continue people watching while also soaking views of forested slopes bounding into the horizon.

A well thought out menu offers the type lunchtime fare that will please you whether desiring Italian or traditional South Tyrolean dishes. The desserts are decadent here so pace yourself.

stadtt cafe pasta dish — Craving pasta? The Stadt Cafe & Restaurant provides a remarkable setting to savor Italian.

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#6 Journey 5000+ Years Back in Time

After lunch, head west on Via Portici. You’re about to go back in time…way back. You’ll eventually come to the home of Bolzano’s most famous resident at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.

At the age of 5,300 years old, Ötzi the Iceman is a remarkably well-preserved corpse. Mummified naturally by glacier ice, he’s the oldest intact human body ever found. His discovery by two hikers in 1991 on a mountainside in South Tyrol’s Ötztal Alps shook the world.

Analysis of his body indicates an arrow cut Ötzi’s life short. Fortunately, that type of hospitality has long left South Tyrol.

If Ötzi were alive today no doubt he would be the leader of a biker gang. Scientists discovered 61 tattoos across his body. We highly recommend buying your tickets online before you go. See our latest post for more riveting facts about the life, death and discovery of Ötzi.

#7 Amble Along the Piazza delle Erbe

When you’re through visiting Ötzi, you may be craving a mid-afternoon snack. Head back to the city center to the Piazza delle Erbe, a lively marketplace since 1295.

Spend time browsing the stalls overflowing with fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers and other specialties such as regional meats, cheeses and baked goods. If you walk away without picking up a tasty delight or two you’ll be insulting a 700+ year tradition on the streets of Bolzano.

The Fountain of Neptune in Bolzano — The Fountain of Neptune watches over the patrons of the Piazza delle Erbe market.

The Fountain of Neptune statue is an imposing presence as you venture through the open-air market. The sable monument with his fierce trident looms above the cobblestones. Sculpted in 1745, it is considered among the most impressive fountains in Italy.

#8 Encounter the Legend of St. Francis…and a Descendant of Dracula

From the market, wander north along the Franziskanergasse to the Franciscan Friary. Founded in 1221, the friary contains a Gothic church, chapel and cloisters with frescoes dating back to the 14th century.

Franciscan Friary in Bozen — While visiting Bolzano, a young Saint Francis supposedly attended Mass in the chapel that is today part of the friary.

Taking time to study the lively scenes as you walk under the cloisters is a rewarding experience for anyone curious about medieval history.

It is believed Saint Francis partook in Mass in the Chapel while visiting Bolzano with his cloth merchant father who was in town on business.

Another legend also enshrouds the friary albeit one much more nightmarish. The funeral stone and tomb of the real-life Count Dracula’s great-grandson forever marks its hallowed walls.

His name was Petru Schiopul, but he was known as “Peter the Lame”. He died in 1594. His remains rest within a tomb sealed with a stone bearing the carving of a bull’s head, the traditional symbol of Moldavia as well as a carving of the devil.

Grandson of Dracula Funeral Stone — Tread lightly. The funeral stone and remains of Count Dracula’s great-grandson are forever a part of the Franciscan Friary.

#9 Explore the Wines & Castles of Bolzano

If your day has not been consumed by the old world charms of Bolzano, you can either hop back in your car or rent a bike for a 25-minute ride to the Messner Mountain Museum Firmian located within Sigmundskron Castle. Just 4 miles southeast of Bolzano’s city center, this museum explores the relationship between man and mountain as inspired by the legendary climber Reinhold Messner (check out this piece about why Messner is the world’s great living man).

Biking in Bolzano — Bolzano is one of the most bike-friendly towns in Italy. Consider renting one to see the sights like a local.

Next, you can venture up to the ancient ruins of Schloss Rafenstein, which watch over the city. Enjoy some of the South Tyrolean treats you picked up earlier as you admire the views.

Then head over to Castel Roncolo (Schloss Runkelstein), also known as the Painted Castle (note: the castle is also accessible from the Talvera-Promenade in the city center or the line 12 shuttle bus from Waltherplatz). This well-preserved 12th-century castle showcases frescoes inside and out lending a colorful window back to life in medieval times.

Castle Runkelstein / Castle Roncolo — Castel Roncolo is a well-preserved 12th-century fortress that lends a colorful window into life during the Middle Ages.

If you’re feeling inclined to embark on a wine tasting, Bolzano will enchant you with the exquisite Alpine wines of South Tyrol. In fact, a saying you might hear while visiting is “Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine.”

Sure, Venice has its appeal, but we’ll take the joyful buoyancy of Bolzano’s wine over water any day.

An unforgettable place to explore this truth is a winery located deep within a mountain on the northern end of town. Intrigued? Read more about our tasting at Kellerei Bozen. Making a trek to this 100+-year-old icon of wine while visiting Bolzano is a must for wine and architecture lovers alike.

#10 Dine & Sip the Evening Away

There is not any shortage of exceptional evening dining options in and around Bolzano. Our recommendation is to head back to the city center to dine at the much-celebrated Restaurant Laurin located in the Parkhotel Laurin. Here, you can let the culinary magic of head chef Manuel Astuto dazzle your senses in an Art Noveau setting beautified with palm trees.

He is a master of fusing South Tyrol’s Mediterranean heart with the soul of the surrounding mountains. Some of the world’s biggest movie stars have come to crave his South Tyrolean creations. So much so they fly him around the world to prepare meals at their private parties.

No matter where you choose to eat, be sure to order a glass of Lagrein as you’re in the home of this robustly flavored, but smooth wine.

A dish from Manuel Astuto at Hotel Laurin in Bolzano — Chef Manuel Astuto is a culinary star at the Parkhotel Laurin restaurant. A master in creating dishes with mouth-watering presentation and equally arresting flavors.

Additional Sights & Activities While Visiting Bolzano

If conquering castles is not your thing, consider immersing yourself in the natural beauty around Bolzano. One option is to catch the Ritten/Renon cable car. It whisks you high above Bolzano to the Ritten / Renon high plateau.

From up here, you can hike a variety of trails and take in wide-open views of the Dolomites’ Rosengarten and Schlern massifs. You can also trek to the surreal 25,000-year-old Earth pyramids. These odd natural formations look like stone thorns piercing the mountainside. An almost eerie sight you will not forget.

Autumn is the perfect time for relaxing walks along the Renon Chestnut Trail.

The San Genesio cable car offers a climb to even more hiking paths. This is the ancestral home to the Haflinger horse which is a blonde horse breed born in the mountains of South Tyrol. Visit nearby stables and book a horseback ride or let someone else take the reins and enjoy the views from a horse-drawn carriage. Numerous alpine huts dot the trails allowing you to stop for a meal and a drink.

Getting to Bolzano

If you’re holidaying other northern Italy destinations such as Venice or Lake Como, consider visiting Bolzano. The city is easy to fit into your trip plans. It’s just 2 to 3 hours away by car, bus or train.

Arriving by car is utterly gorgeous. Check out our guide on driving in Italy to ensure you’re ready.

We recommend parking on the outskirts of the city center. The Parcheggio Mareccio is a convenient lot located off Via Claudia de’ Medici with the 13th-century Maretsch Castle as its backdrop. The castle is now an event center, but tourists can visit when events are not taking place. Its tower boasts one of the best views of Bolzano.

From this lot, you can easily be in the center of Bolzano within a 10-minute walk. On your way back to your car, opt for a scenic stroll along the “Meadows of Talvera”, a beautiful park set along the river Talvera.

Our first exposure to Bolzano left us craving more and we’re certain yours will too. The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes the city a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you’ve left. If you’re like us, you may just want to make Bolzano, Italy your new home!

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for arranging our lovely tour with our guide Luciano Rech. We highly recommend him. Learn more about tour options here.

Have you been to this alluring town? Let us know in the comments below if we missed any of the best things to do in Bolzano.

Book a Tour from Bolzano to the Dolomites

In addition to spending time amid Bolzano’s cobblestoned avenues, consider booking a tour of the Dolomites. See the options below.

VISITING BOLZANO IN THE FUTURE? PIN THIS POST!

The Ötzi photos provided courtesy of South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.