Alto Adige Wines

Of Casks & Christmas – Revelry at Castel Rametz

With its towering battlements radiating amid vine-drenched hills and mountains lanced by snow, Castel Rametz is, without doubt, a quintessential sight of South Tyrol.

The wine estate, perhaps more than any other, embodies the beauty of Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes conspiring with medieval contours to steal your breath.

Perched above Merano in the luxuriant district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz was etched on our must-see list ever since first admiring its stately manner from the mountainside of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

When we discovered the estate hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit. The chance to turn several shades of merry before even setting foot in the traditional Christmas market of Merano was too enticing to pass up.

A Hillside Haunt Steeped in History

While Castel Rametz has seen rulers come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful owner to its throne. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of wine soon followed.

Antique photo of Castel Rametz — Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate. These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”. Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol.

Courting Christmas Cheer

We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of man’s best friend.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lied beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its hallowed stones.

Castel Rametz Mercatino — The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with exquisite holiday dazzle. Classy decor and a roaring fire made it a sanctuary for the season. Looking around, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

The old-world ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

A stand in the courtyard offered traditional delicacies to delight in while enjoying the smokey crackle of logs aflame. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to browse the Christmas market within the castle.

Inside, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar — The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is a marvel to browse.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The old-world character of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

Amid the glow of flickering flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow. In a nearby stone nook, a carefully carved nativity scene caught our eye. We studied its graceful beauty beneath lights casting the deep blue hues of a winter’s night sky.

Gift of the Vines – Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We could have remained enveloped in the ambiance of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wines that makes us want to uncork one. Embarking on a wine tasting next in Castel Rametz’s enoteca seemed wildly appropriate as our next stop.

We climbed the cellar stairs parking ourselves on two seats at the wine tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz — The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to enjoy a remarkable tasting.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Whether you're a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to uncork at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website.

A wayside shrine in the vineyards of Castel Rametz — The guardian of Castel Rametz watches vigilantly from the foot of the castle’s shrine.

Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also enjoy a meal here.

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Tiefenbrunner Winery – A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside

By Kate & Vin 20 Comments

If wine is indeed “bottled poetry” as it has been said, the five generations of family running the Tiefenbrunner Winery have composed a sweeping saga. Winemaking as a true expression of art has never been more apparent than during our visit to this celebrated wine estate.

Tucked between the ancient villages of Kurtatsch (Cortaccia) and Margreid (Magrè) in the hamlet of Entiklar (Niclara), the Tiefenbrunner Winery is among the oldest in South Tyrol. It sits upslope from the South Tyrolean Wine Road amidst a seemingly endless regiment of grapevines. They reign down in waves from the foothills of the Fennberg mountain plateau leaving no doubt: wine is the ruler of this bountiful land.

The winery itself was officially registered in 1848. But the winemaking heritage of the area goes back thousands of years to the Rhaetia period — 500 years before the ascent of the Ancient Roman Empire in the Alps.

From Castle to Cask

Tiefenbrunner Winery welcomes you from a forested enclave like a scene written to woo readers of a romance novel. The ornate story unfolding over the crenelated walls of Castel Turmhof, where the winery calls home, greet you in spellbinding fashion.

Any thoughts you are here only for a wine tasting, quickly dissipate. You realize Tiefenbrunner is as much a historic destination as it is a winery. It’s impossible not to be enamored by the antiquity before you.

After our arrival, we stood in awe studying the castle’s architectural details and bemusing murals before being met by the owner, Christof Tiefenbrunner.

The regal lines of the manor made us feel almost as if we were standing before royalty. But Christof’s gracious, down-to-earth demeanor quickly put us at ease. Christof and his wife, Sabine, opened a new chapter in the winery’s long history in 2000 when they took it over from his father who presided over its remarkable growth since 1968.

Grape leaves gilded in autumn’s gold swelled overhead toward the towering cliffs of Fennberg.

Before leading us into the heart of the operation, he gave us a tour of the estate’s grounds. We discovered the castle lorded over the cultivation of grapes since at least 1225 when it was first documented in land records as the “Linticlar estate”. The Tiefenbrunner family began its legacy at the estate in 1675 eventually christening it “Castel Turmhof”.

Tiefenbrunner Winery Castle Park — Of wine and fairytales. Tiefenbrunner’s Castle Park whisks you to another world.

As we passed by a grotto with a waterfall splashing into a shallow pool, Christof pointed to fantastical sculptures peeking from rocky coves and nooks. His great-great-grandfather, Johann Tiefenthaler, beautified the castle with ponds and enchanting works of art more than 150 years ago. The figures from biblical and ancient mythology added a touch of whimsy to the historic site.

Vines a Thousand Years Wide

Christof brought us to an open-air courtyard where the winery burrowed into the mountainside. Grape leaves gilded in autumn’s gold swelled overhead toward the towering cliffs of Fennberg.

Growing demand for Tiefenbrunner’s portfolio of wines in the 1980s meant expanding the winery’s operational footprint. But instead of building outward they built downward; beneath the vineyards. By doing so, they were able to protect the historic value of the castle and its grounds.

Tiefenbruner Grape Vines in Autumn — A crown of gold rises over the winery. There is nothing quite as magical as experiencing the vineyards of South Tyrol in autumn.

Today, Tiefenbrunner cultivates roughly 25 acres of grapevines on the slopes near the winery along with nearly 40 more acres between Kurtatsch and Margreid. Together, they comprise 25 vineyards sitting at elevations from 820 feet to an astounding 3,280 feet above sea level. In fact, Tiefenbrunner’s flagship white, “Feldmarschall Von Fenner” Müller-Thurgau, begins its ascent to greatness from one of the highest vineyards in Europe.

Many of Tiefenbrunner’s vineyards cling to southerly-facing slopes where they enjoy a winemaker’s dream: dramatic temperature swings between night and day and loamy soil rich with limestone.

Tiefenbrunner’s flagship white, “Feldmarschall Von Fenner” Müller-Thurgau, begins its ascent to greatness from one of the highest vineyards in Europe.

The effects are practically alchemic in nature. The warm winds during the day induce ripening, but the chilly mountain breezes in the evening stop it in its tracks conserving acidity. This phenomena paired with the artful tending of grapevines by expert hands allows Tiefenbrunner to ripen grapes with uncanny precision.

Christof shared that he also sources grapes from 50 or so small growers around South Tyrol including vineyards at the foot of the Dolomites’ Schlern mountain — perhaps South Tyrol’s most emblematic peak.

Tiefenbrunner Grapes — Tiefenbrunner excels at transmitting the terroir to the glass. The winery produces a diverse portfolio of 29 wines resulting in 700K+ bottles each year.

Whether planting new vines or cultivating old, Tiefenbrunner maintains close bonds with each grower ensuring the distinct personality of the plot comes to full fruition in the most environmentally sound manner possible. Its eco-minded commitment to winemaking is not a reflection of the latest feel-good fad, but a part of Tiefenbrunner’s heritage and principal operating philosophy. For more than 100 years, the winery has sustainably obtained all of its electricity through its own hydropower plant.

Beneath the Crown of Gold

We followed Christof into the winery where he walked us through its bottling and packaging operation. From there, we entered Tiefenbrunner’s winemaking cellars. Here, he stressed the lengths Tiefenbrunner goes to imprint the terroir’s character on each grape varietal.

The winery transforms its grape juice into world-class wines through four vinification and aging practices. Vinification occurs in large stainless steel tanks, concrete vats and immense wooden casks followed by aging in French oak barriques as well as in the bottle. This allows Christof and his winemaker, Stephan Rohregger, to cull the definitive virtues of its wines with a demanding degree of accuracy and quality.

christof tiefenbrunner — Passion is contagious…even more so when discussing delicious wine. Christof shares the artistry of personifying the terroir in the bottle.

The result is excellence in expression year after year across Tiefenbrunner’s four lines of wines: Selection Vigna, Selection Linticlarus, Selection Turmhof and Classic Merus. Each line meets the discerning tastes of markets around the world with the Selection Vigna line representing the winery’s Grand Cru.

The first-rate quality Tiefenbrunner releases have not gone unnoticed by the wine industry elite. Renowned wine critic, James Suckling, consistently includes Tiefenbrunner wines in his annual Top 100 Italian Wines list. This is no small feat considering he samples 3,000+ Italian wines each year.

Its grapes arise from a vineyard nestled at the foot of Schlern mountain where the sandy soil possesses high salt levels and limestone rock born from the Dolomites themselves.

We ventured further into the winery to a 400-year old cellar that at one time in the castle’s storied history held cows. Any sign of our hooved friends was long gone as oak barrels now filled the cool air of the room. And certainly begifting us a much more pleasant aroma than in ages past.

Tiefenbrunner Stube — Come for the wine, stay for the ambiance.

Our tour continued up a set of stairs to another courtyard where a 280-year old yew tree gnarled toward the sky. Christof ducked us into a gorgeous stone-pine paneled room inviting guests to enjoy an assortment of local specialties from speck to sausages to cheese to homemade bread while sipping on Tiefenbrunner’s wines.

We then descended again beneath the castle to the Wolkenstein Cellar — an 800-old cellar where meat was smoked in medieval times. Tiefenbrunner has since scrubbed away the centuries-old remnants of wood fires making the cavernous room now a place to taste wines amid the ambiance of ancient stones.

A Tale of Five Wines

After the fascinating tour deep beneath South Tyrol, Christof brought us to Tiefenbrunner’s wine shop located across from the castle. A quaint two-story building, it reminded us of an old-world storefront complete with an artist’s loft above — a natural setting to further discover the tale of its wines.

The first thing we noticed next to our tasting table was four glass cylinders filled with soil. We found them an ingenious touch to help tell the story of Tiefenbrunner. Short of trekking to each plot with a shovel in hand, they made grasping the variety of soil types easier to understand.

For the tasting, Christof led us on a journey through all four wines comprising Tiefenbrunner’s Selection Vigna line followed by a tasting of its Lagrein Riserva from its Selection Linticlarus line.

Tiefenbrunner launched the Vigna line to showcase its single-vineyard wines, which as Christof noted: “transmits the terroir best in the glass.” They are celebrated for perfectly balancing elegance with a deep richness of fruit flavors.

Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc Riserva

If gracefulness in wine has ever been an elusive descriptor for you, pour a glass of Tiefenbrunner’s Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc. Its meaning will crystallize on your nose and in your mouth. The wine takes you by the hand leading you gently across the dance floor, but before the song is over it has you effortlessly enraptured in the tango.

Its grapes arise from a vineyard nestled at the foot of Schlern mountain where the sandy soil possesses high salt levels and limestone rock born from the Dolomites themselves. This imparts an initial flint-like aroma that eases into fruity notes of dry hay and exotic fruit.

The wine ages for 11 months in oak and another year in the bottle before release. As a Sauvignon Blanc “raised by the Dolomites”, it makes a delicious gift for the hiker in your life. Its price begins at $59.

Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau

This white is a sterling example of what we love about the world of wine: the story a bottle tells. And while we may be biased, no bottle can spin a better tale than the wines from South Tyrol.

The Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau is quite the epic. The wine is named after Franz Philipp Freiherr von Fenner, an Austrian field marshall who founded the Tyrolean Imperial Rifles, a regiment serving the Austrian emperor in the 1800s.

The grapes composing this legend grow at an elevation of nearly 3,300 feet above sea level on the Fennberg mountain plateau next to the historic summer estate of the Feldmarschall. This lofty height makes it the highest Müller-Thurgau vineyard in Europe.

Planted almost 50 years ago by Christof’s father, the vineyard’s altitude exemplifies how winemaking is an art. It is located such that an immense jutting rock face protects the vines from northerly winds.

We found the Feldmarschall Von Fenner a stunner from swirl to finish. Pure deliciousness reminiscent of a dry Reisling, but more complex with an energetic minerality. James Suckling referred to it as possibly the “best Müller-Thurgau in the world”. And the renowned wine guide, Gambero Rosso, awarded the wine its coveted Three Glasses prize.

With all that said, the label on the bottle alone is enough to entice us to purchase this high-mountain gem. No one should pass up the chance to unwind with a heroic military officer of old Tyrol. $45.

AU Chardonnay Riserva

Sipping this delightful number furthered our conviction that the only Chardonnays worth paying attention to come from South Tyrol. Well, at least that is how we see it.

The AU Chardonnay was pleasantly dry with a well-rounded body and ever tantalizing bouquet. Our semi-novice noses could not pin down the aromas. It was thoroughly exotic and intoxicating. In the mouth, we found it evolving with intensity eventually giving way to a nice long finish.

Christof shared that the vineyard where this Chardonnay is born sits directly behind the estate. The plot slopes under a pergola of vines that are 60 years old. He noted the wine itself can age a remarkable 20+ years in a cellar. It starts at $59.

Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva

While white wines comprise roughly 70% of Tiefenbrunner’s production, reds are not any less important to the winery. Producing Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva requires a rare perfect growing season before Tiefenbrunner will harvest the grapes.

We learned the name “Toren” is a Middle High German word meaning tower. The grapes thrive on a steep south-facing slope where the sun relentlessly basks the vines. The wine spends a year maturing in oak barriques followed by six months in stainless steel tanks. It then ages two years in the bottle. Tiefenbrunner has produced 2,500 bottles of Toren; however, only 2,000 have been brought to market.

South Tyrol does not lack wineries showcasing striking mastery in modern architecture, but there is something especially enchanting about sipping wine in a medieval castle perched below a mountainside.

In the glass, the wine was a thrilling dark red. One could almost get lost in its swirl forgetting to take a sip. It had an exceptional structure with hints of tobacco and blackberry. We enjoyed its velvety layers of dark-fruit flavors and were ready to carve into a steak after our tasting. With its limited production, it is naturally one of Tiefenbrunner’s more expensive wines. $69.

Linticlarus Lagrein Riserva

Our tasting with Christof fittingly concluded with a native red of South Tyrol from Tiefenbrunner’s premium line: Linticlarus. The name Linticlarus is a respectful nod to the area’s winemaking prowess going back to ancient times. It honors a former Roman fortress in Entiklar.

Before tasting, we admired its heavy ruby color and notes of black cherry, vanilla and lightly smoked oak. After a couple of sips, it sprang to life expressing lovely juiciness with smooth tannins and a slightly earthy finish.

This wine came across as very food-friendly. A Lagrein we could easily enjoy with everything from wild game to pizza.

Christof noted their Lagrein comes from one of Tiefenbrunner’s lowest elevation vineyard and ages for a year in small French oak barrels. It then spends another six months in large wooden casks before aging another year in the bottle. You can pick up this beauty for $35.

How to Visit Tiefenbrunner Winery

South Tyrol does not lack wineries showcasing striking mastery in modern architecture, but there is something especially enchanting about sipping wine in a medieval castle perched below a mountainside. Even those who have little interest in wine will find visiting Tiefenbrunner Winery an alluring destination.

The winery lies in South Tyrol’s Unterland (Lowlands) region and is the furthest one south we have visited along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Its location makes it the ideal winery to begin or end your day along the wine road. Set a gentle pace to savor the landscape. Between the steep terraces of vines, you’ll soak in speckles of meadows, forests and orchards.

In addition to visiting Tiefenbrunner, we highly-recommend breezing along the charming cobblestone streets of Margreid where you can see the oldest grapevine in South Tyrol. And if you are in South Tyrol during the holiday season, consider adding Margreid’s Krampus Run to your itinerary.

Tiefenbrunner Winery offers tours with their tastings, but you must book in advance. The winery and eatery are open Monday-Saturday. Hours vary by season.

If a trip to South Tyrol is not in your immediate future, transport yourself to the Tiefenbrunner estate by picking up a bottle. Their expansive portfolio offers wines to fit any budget. We regularly enjoy the Classic Merus Chardonnay. At under $16, we find it twice as good as its price tag.

We would like to give special thanks to Christof Tiefenbrunner for the enchanting tour and tasting!

SAVE TIEFENBRUNNER TO YOUR TRAVEL WISH LIST

Sun-kissed in South Tyrol – Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen

By Kate & Vin 22 Comments

Spend an afternoon in the South Tyrolean capital of Bolzano, and you just may find yourself wondering what is the secret behind the ancient town’s pervading “la dolce vita” spirit.

You might think it’s the 300 days of glorious sunshine pouring over its old world rooftops. Or the quaint romantic sights, markets and cafes dotting nearly every corner. Or you might think it’s the surrounding natural beauty: perhaps the distant spear-tip mountain peaks inviting discovery or the lush Mediterranean flora swaying carefree in the Alpine wind.

Yes, you might think all of this and more, but you’d be wrong.

The answer we found is wine. Lots and lots of delicious wine.

An old saying shared with us more than once while breezily strolling over the cobblestones of Bolzano is, “Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine.”

This truth was never more evident to us than when we embarked on a tour of Kellerei Bozen — a 100+-year-old award-winning winery fantastically carved into a mountainside on the northern end of town.

In this post, we take you behind the scenes of Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bolzano in Italian) to introduce its lovely wines and show you how to visit this must-see architectural marvel while in South Tyrol.

In the Land of Sun, Soul & Swirl

We meandered to Kellerei Bozen from the medieval core of Bolzano. It was a pleasant 40-minute walk under the mellow rays of the early afternoon sun.

The route led us past historic buildings boldly wearing centuries of Italian and German influence, well-manicured parks peppered with sun-loving patrons and bustling arcades adorned with restaurants and shops.

Gradually, the buildings became more sparse. Rock-riddled mountains rolling into the sky joined us on our right. Soon, we were gliding by vineyards gently easing up the slopes. Ahead of us, we noticed an immense bronze-gilded cube shimmering like a beacon for Bacchus amid the vines.

If the cube was indeed a beacon for Bacchus, this was surely the god of wine's bunker.

As we approached the tantalizing structure, we could make out the lines of a grapevine leaf gracing its metallic veneer. It imparted a sleek, stylish flair that made the building appear as a work of art.

A long concrete retaining wall swirled down from the cube meeting us the on the sidewalk where it transitioned into timeworn stacks of stone. On the wall, a sign for Kellerei Bozen announced our arrival.

Kellerei Bozen Wines — Kellerei Bozen’s signature design feature is a majestic vine-leafed cube that illuminates beautifully in the evening.

The astounding design of the winery was fully revealed as we walked towards its entrance. Beyond the gleaming cube, it seemingly blended harmoniously into the earth. Most of the winery’s wizardry laid hidden beneath terraced rows of newly-planted grapevines that careened towards the mountain’s edge. If the cube was indeed a beacon for Bacchus, this was surely the god of wine’s bunker.

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Two Became One – The Birth of Kellerei Bozen

We walked inside the cube and found Johanna Senn, Kellerei Bozen marketing manager, enthusiastically waiting for us. Naturally, after admiring the winery’s striking design for much of our walk, we began our visit inquiring about the history of the building and Kellerei Bozen.

She led us around the winery grounds while sharing its story. Kellerei Bozen we learned was born from the merger of two historic South Tyrolean wineries. In 2001, St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery came together. The merger brought 224 wine-growing families into a single cooperative — creating one of the largest in South Tyrol.

Kellerei Bozen Winery Operation — Kellerei Bozen remains one of the largest wine cooperatives in South Tyrol thanks to the merger of St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery.

Each winery possessed its own specialty. Established in 1930, the St. Magdalena Winery excelled at producing St. Magdalener ⁠— a red wine made from a blend of Schiava (also known as Vernatsh) and Lagrein grapes. The Gries Winery began 22 years earlier with a focus on cultivating exceptional Lagrein.

Now, we knew why Bolzano is said to swim in wine. Vino practically pours down the mountainsides.

Despite the merger, the wineries continued operating at separate locations until moving to this new mountainside estate in August 2018. The new winery is the result of an Elon Musk-like vision that first began in 2006 and eventually took shape starting in 2016.

Johanna noted the signature design feature of the winery, the vine-leafed cube, artistically symbolizes Kellerei Bozen as a pioneering leader in viticulture innovation and green cultivation. However, the metallic sheathing’s purpose isn’t only decorative. She also shared that it supports the winery’s eco-friendly cooling efforts by filtering sunlight.

The Many Vines of Kellerei Bozen

Next, Johanna led us to the rooftop of the winery where we walked out to the cube’s edge. From here, we enjoyed a sprawling view of Bolzano with the Rosengarten peaks of the Dolomites looming far away on the horizon.

From the rooftop of Kellerei Bozen, marketing manager, Johanna Senn, gave us a sweeping view of the vineyards tumbling to the gates of Bolzano.

Johanna brought our attention to the sea of vineyards swelling to the edges of town. It was astonishing. Now, we knew why Bolzano is said to swim in wine. Vino practically pours down the mountainsides.

From many of these vineyards, Kellerei Bozen cultivates 15 different grape varieties yielding a diverse portfolio of 37 wines with an almost even split between white and red. These grapes arise from 350 hectares (865 acres) at elevations varying between 650+ ft. (200 meters) and 3,280+ ft. (1,000 meters) above sea level. They flourish among numerous microclimates and soil types.

Bolzano Vineyards — Yes, Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine….a view of Bolzano and the sea of vineyards on St. Magdalener hill (©IDM Südtirol-Alto Adige / Clemens Zahn).

Johanna pointed towards the sunny slopes rising into a mountain called Renon just beyond Bolzano. We landed our gaze on an area known as St. Magdalener hill. It is home to Kellerei Bozen’s Schiava grape. The sandy, gravel-like soil and abundance of sunshine make the steep slope perfect for producing easy drinking Schiavas that are elegant and fruit forward.

She then focused our eyes on the vineyards stretching near the winery in a district called Gries. This is where its Lagrein grapes grow. They thrive in the valley bottom amid porous, rich alluvial soil that basks under the steady beat of the sun.

Kellerei Bozen Grape Vines — The future of wine? Newly-planted fungus-resistant grapevines crown the “roof” of Kellerei Bozen.

Johanna noted Kellerei Bozen’s white varietals such as Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio lie in the highest elevation vineyards of Renon and above Bolzano, as well as further south in an area called Missiano.

We asked about the newly planted vines adorning the winery and were surprised to discover they are a new grape varietal called PIWI (A German acronym pronounced “pee-vee”). These naturally fungus-resistant varietals comprise a winemaking experiment Kellerei Bozen is conducting to see if they can viably support its sustainable viticulture practices.

Producing wine with the utmost respect towards the environment and future generations is a governing principle of Kellerei Bozen. Not only do its winegrowers labor rigorously to harvest the best quality grapes, but they also employ green cultivation techniques whenever possible to care for the vine, fruit and soil.

Wine From the Top Down

Kate & Johanna at Kellerei Bozen — Kellerei Bozen is one of the first wineries in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” certification.

This commitment to sustainability does not end at the vineyard. Johanna proudly pointed out the new winery is one of the first in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” seal. This certifies the state-of-art winemaking operation meets strict standards aimed at minimizing resource and energy use. To give us a better sense for what this means, Johanna brought us back inside to reveal what lies beneath the mountain.

Once fermentation is complete the wines descend ever deeper into the earth.

By constructing much of the 65,000+ sq. ft. estate under the earth, Kellerei Bozen can cool its production and maturation areas naturally. For hot water production, the winery burns wood pellets — an efficient renewable energy resource that is carbon neutral. Even the processing of grapes into mouth-pleasing wine is accomplished with an eye on reducing energy use at each step.

The new winery descends several levels allowing gravity to move the grapes from beginning to end. This top-down or vertical production design ensures grapes gently journey through every phase in the most environmentally-friendly manner. Additionally, it enables Kellerei Bozen to elevate the quality of its wines with the ability to isolate individual plot characteristics through a number of vinification tanks and barrels.

Winery Tour — Johanna explains how Kellerei Bozen uses vertical processing to gently transform grapes into world-class wines.

As we followed Johanna down to the first level, she shared that the winery processes its white and red grapes differently. After making their first descent down from the dropping station at the top, white grapes are crushed, pressed and then transported vertically to towering steel fermentation tanks. Red grapes, on the other hand, after destemming and crushing pass directly to much smaller wood barrels and steel tanks.

The reason for this according to Johanna is to facilitate greater contact of the grape must with the skin. This process, known as maceration, means the red grape skins are left to soak in their own juices to soften and release the qualities that give red wine its color, body, mouth-feel and ability to age.

Furthermore, Kellerei Bozen uses a “delestage” fermentation process, also referred to as “rack and return”. After the grape musts, skins and seeds settle at the top of the fermenting container, the winery pumps the wine into a reserve vat. The remaining solids are pressed again with the wine ultimately poured back over the top of the re-pressed skins and seeds. This boosts the color, flavor, tannins and aromas of the wine.

Once fermentation is complete the wines descend ever deeper into the earth. Kellerei Bozen’s maturation cellar is located in the lowest level of the winery. Here, red and white wines age into exemplary form in vast rows of French oak barriques. The large number of barrels allows Kellerei Bozen to separate development of wines to bring about even higher quality vintages.

Within the Cube – Tasting Kellerei Bozen Wines

When we finished touring the cellars, Johanna brought us back upstairs for a tasting in the Vinarius wine shop, located in the gleaming cube at the winery’s front. It offers an enthralling setting to sip and browse Kellerei Bozen’s extensive wine portfolio.

Johanna began our tasting with two whites from Kellerei Bozen’s Selection line, which exhibits the best possible interplay between grape variety, soil texture and microclimate. We followed the whites up with our first introduction to St. Magdalener along with a tasing of the winery’s best seller from its Riserva line (can you guess which wine?).

Kellerei Bozen “Dellago” Weissburgunder (Pinot Bianco). Pinot Bianco discovered its soul in South Tyrol. It was brought to the region from Austria in 1850. The superior soil conditions and wide temperature swings between day and night helped elevate the varietal to world-class esteem. The Dellago from Kellerei Bozen certainly lives up to these lofty expectations.

It hails from the Dellago family vineyards in Missiano to the south and boasts a long list of awards. We noticed green apples on the nose and found it delicious; elegant yet with a fuller body than we anticipated. Johanna shared that part of the wine is aged in French oak imparting a slight creaminess. Because of this, we could definitely see ourselves enjoying it with pasta or chicken dishes. It is nicely priced at $13-$14.

Kellerei Bozen “Mock” Sauvignon. This Sauvignon Blanc was a pleasant surprise. It’s a full-bodied wine, but drank easy. We immediately noticed a scent of elderflower, which always brings a smile to our lips. It was fresh, fruity, tangy with just the right amount of crisp. It’s a complex number born of all steel. Johanna indicated the Mock Sauvignon would make an excellent choice with fish, asparagus and salads. $25-26.

Kellerei Bozen “Moar” St. Magdalener. To say we were excited to sip St. Magdalener for the first time is an understatement. For us, trying new wines in South Tyrol is worth the trip alone. All the snow-crested mountains, centuries-old castles and pristine Alpine lakes are just cherries on top of a visit.

Kellerei Bozen St. Magdalener — The St. Magdalener Moar we purchased met a quick end at our table.

Johanna was our perfect tasting coach. She reminded us St. Magdalener is a blend of 85% Schiava and 15% Lagrein. In the glass, it was similar to ruby red, but in a way exhibited its very own distinct color. Almost as if it were a precious gem only found in South Tyrol.

On the nose and in the mouth, it was fruity, light and offered a medium finish. We enjoyed raspberries with a hint of vanilla thanks to its aging in oak barrels. We appreciated it as another easy drinking red. One we would certainly sip while nibbling on speck and other cold cuts or just while relaxing in the summer. $16-$17.

Kellerei Bozen “Taber Riserva” Lagrein. Not only is this Lagrein Kellerei Bozen’s best seller, but it’s also the winery’s most award-winning wine. It has received the coveted “three glasses” designation from Gambero Rosso for the past 19 years.

The Taber Riserva owes much of its beauty, inside and out, to 80-year old vines springing from the sun-baked soil of Gries, which practically resides right outside the winery’s front door. That’s not to take credit away from the winegrowers or the expert handling of Kellerei Bozen’s highly-regarded winemaker, Stephan Filippi. They contribute just as much to conjuring a Lagrein that is deeply red, intense yet velvety and possessing a roaring chorus of floral, cherry and chocolate notes.

Kate Tasting Lagrein — Kellerei Bozen’s “Taber Riserva” Lagrein has received “3 glasses” from Gambero Rosso each of the past 19 years.

We loved its earthy spiciness. It’s a wine we could uncork every night…if we were dining on red meat or wild game. $38-$40.

We wrapped up our time with Johanna by taking a little of Kellerei Bozen with us. We eagerly purchased a bottle of the St. Magdalener Moar. It was time we made ourselves more familiar with this delightful South Tyrolean red.

How to Visit Kellerei Bozen

You can reach Kellerei Bozen by venturing from old town Bolzano as we did or you can arrive by car or public transport as it is located immediately off the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Parking is available upfront.

On future visits to Kellerei Bozen, we will not likely walk to the winery again for the sake of saving time. However, if you have not explored much of Bolzano there is no better way to do so than by foot. Consider a historic trek to the winery as your first option.

By the way, an unforgettable way to explore the wineries of South Tyrol is to stay at one of the many family-owned wine estates with villas along the wine road. Check out our recent stay at Donà Winery for inspiration.

Kellerei Bozen offers guided tours for small groups. Tour requests must be made prior to visiting. You can embark on a wine tasting every day in the wine shop except on Sundays. The shop is open from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM.

Be sure to ask for Kellerei Bozen at your local wine shop. With 3+ million bottles of wine distributed throughout the U.S. and Europe each year, there’s a good chance you can uncork a bottle or two this weekend.

We would like to give special thanks to Johanna Senn of Kellerei Bozen. We could not have asked for a better introduction to Kellerei Bozen and its exceptional wines!

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Cantina Tramin Wines – Capturing the Soul of the Mountain

By Kate & Vin 20 Comments

Some sights enthrall immediately. They captivate alone with their beauty. Or even with just a soft whisper of their history. Yet the ones that always grip the most are those that entrance you with their mystery.

Such is the Cantina Tramin Winery. Crowning a vine-drenched hilltop overlooking the tantalizing blue waters of Lake Caldaro, the winery is a South Tyrolean sight to behold all on its own. If its evocative design doesn’t stir wonder inside you, check your pulse.

So eclectic is its exterior, Cantina Tramin can’t help but demand the attention of everyone along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. It certainly demanded ours — capturing our eyes before our hearts.

An Unforgettable Encounter

We first came across Cantina Tramin (Kellerei Tramin in German) two years ago while breezing from one wine village to the next. The striking structure of the winery amid the rolling foothills was impossible to ignore. Almost hypnotic. And most definitely a magnet for curious souls like ourselves.

As we had little time between our next scheduled stop, we swung in for a quick look at what appeared to be a modern-day temple built to honor the Ancient Roman god of wine. That quick look turned into a glass of Gewürztraminer recommended to both of us. We surrendered. The sprawling panoramic view unfolding before our eyes from the winery’s terrace was too alluring to not let its wine grace our lips.

Cantina Tramin Tasting Room — One glass of wine on the terrace of the Cantina Tramin Winery tends to turn into many.

We promised ourselves to make a return visit. And this past year we were fortunate to receive a grand behind-the-scenes tour and tasting as impressive as the building itself.

Cultivating a Culture of Cooperation

Our tour began with Sigrid Pichler, brand ambassador of Cantina Tramin. Her enthusiasm for the winery was contagious. She even commented wine was in her blood as she gave us a sweeping history of Cantina Tramin. We didn’t doubt it.

The winery began in 1898 at the helm of Christian Schrott, a parish priest of the picturesque village of Tramin and member of the Austrian parliament. Schrott helped pioneer a thriving cooperative culture that today includes 300 individual winegrowers cultivating 260 hectares (picture roughly 260 baseball or rugby fields) of vineyards.

These vineyards tumble down steep slopes around the nearby villages of Tramin, Neumarkt, Montan and Auer. Some flourish at heights reaching nearly 3,000 feet.

Cantina Tramin is fortunate to have one of the best winemakers in the world.

All of the vines enjoy the benefits of strong temperature swings between day and night. The warmth emanating from Lake Garda to the south and Lake Caldaro to the north begift the grapes sweet-inducing daytime heat relieved by the settling of cool Alpine air in the evenings.

Additionally, the north-south orientation of the mountains allows warm air to flow in from the south during the day. At night brisk winds from the Roen mountain descend almost 7,000 feet onto the valley, dramatically influencing the nighttime temperatures. This allows the grapes to rest. Ultimately contributing to well structured and balanced wines with heavenly aromas.

Cantina Tramin also keeps the grapes on the vines well into autumn, which draws in even more aroma into its vintages.

Tramin, Italy Vineyards — The vineyards around Tramin cascade down steep slopes blanketing the Alpine landscape in Mediterranean lushness.

Each winegrower in the cooperative owns less than a hectare on average. Such small scale vineyards enable Cantina Tramin to produce wines of superior quality thanks to the deep-rooted knowledge the winegrowers possess of their land.

The winery works closely with the growers to optimize each plot sometimes down to even tailoring individual rows. By paying attention to the finest details, Cantina Tramin avoids losing the flavor and acidity cultivated over a season. The result? Wine that is immensely pleasant to drink harvest after harvest.

Excellence from Vine to Bottle

While a strong working relationship with the winegrowers is paramount to the winery’s success, it takes the leadership and vision of a winemaker to bring it all together. Cantina Tramin is fortunate to have one of the best in the world. Wilhelm (Willi), director of winemaking, joined the winery in 1992.

A native of the village of Tramin, he knows the pulse of the area’s vineyards through and through. Willi’s winemaking philosophy has elevated Cantina Tramin’s wines to a class of excellence few can match while also helping Alto Adige / South Tyrol shine as a star producer of high-quality wines.

Wilhelm Sturz of Cantina Tramin — Cantina Tramin’s director of winemaking, Willi Stürz, shares the story behind creating Italy’s first 100-point white wine.

His unique ability to capture the soul of the land in every bottle of Cantina Tramin wine was recognized in 2004 when the renowned Gambero Rosso, Italy’s most trusted wine guide, awarded him Italian Winemaker of the Year.

The recognition of superior quality has continued. Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate, recently awarded the winery’s Epokale Gewürztraminer 100-points — making it the first white wine in Italy to receive such a rating. To give you an idea of the significance of this accomplishment, consider that Robert Parker has tasted 35,000+ Italian wines as a wine critic over 30 years and has awarded 100 points to only 14 of them!

Ripe with Creativity & Tradition

The winery took on its current enigmatic form in 2010. Werner Tscholl, a prominent architect from South Tyrol’s Vinschgau region, designed two additional wings to the existing winery. Tscholl’s final product is a masterpiece in contrasts.

Emulating the contours of vines through glass and steel, Cantina Tramin at once harmonizes with its surroundings while exhibiting its own eye-arresting beauty. The building nicely complements the winery’s winemaking approach by celebrating tradition and creativity.

Cantina Tramin Winery stands apart as a contemporary architectural marvel amid an ancient backdrop (photo: Cantina Tramin).

This marriage between the future and the past is evident in the winery’s portfolio. Sigrid explained how Cantina Tramin splits its wines into two categories: proprietary blends and single varietal. The wines making up the proprietary blend comprise two or more varietals and express Willi’s creative orchestration with respect to each vineyard.

Precise measurement and control of the fermenting climate allow the winery to prevent unwanted evaporation thus elevating the aromatic quality of its wines.

The single varietal wines, on the other hand, reflect the character of the specific grape variety culminating into an ultimate expression of the region. Within both categories, Cantina Tramin offers a Classic Series and a Selections Series of wines.

The Classic Series is where you will find high-quality wines at an excellent value while the Selections Series represents the finest wines Cantina Tramin offers.

Within the Cellars of Cantina Tramin Winery

When Sigrid concluded her spirited introduction to the winery she handed us off to Günther Facchinelli, Cantina Tramin’s public relations and communication manager. Günther passionately shared how the operational side of the winery contributes to producing intensely aromatic wines — a quality characteristic Cantina Tramin has become well known for in the wine world.

Part of the secret lies in treating each grape like a hand-picked precious gem. Upon delivery to the winery, grapes gently ride a conveyor belt to the grape press as opposed to direct handling. This helps preserve their delicate nature ensuring Cantina Tramin can reap the full potential of each grape. After the pressing, the grapes begin vinification.

Grapes of Alto Adige — The small scale plots making up Cantina Tramin’s vineyards allow for gentle hand-harvesting of its grapes.

To show us how Cantina Tramin performs the alchemic magic of transforming grape juice into wine, Günther led us to the lower level of the winery. Here, we walked into a fermentation cellar unlike we had ever seen. The fermentation tanks were hidden behind a wall clad with white tiles, which imparted a cool retro look.

However, the retro vibe was not by design. We found out the tanks were installed when the original building was erected in the 1970s. To preserve the foundation of the building during the recent renovation, Cantina Tramin kept the tanks in place but had some relined with stainless steel — a job not fit for anyone prone to claustrophobia as they had to be refurbished from within.

Günther informed us these tanks are where Cantina Tramin ferments its Lagrein, Merlot and Pinot Nero grapes. The vinification process is monitored closely by man and machine. Precise measurement and control of the fermenting climate allow the winery to prevent unwanted evaporation thus elevating the aromatic quality of its wines.

We followed Günther into another part of the cellar where rows of stainless steel fermentation tanks stood side-by-side like beaming performers on a stage. These types of tanks were more familiar to our eyes. This is where Cantina Tramin’s award-winning whites continue their journey to juicy elegance.

The tanks were at one time larger, but when Willi became the winemaker 30 years ago he switched to smaller tanks. By using smaller tanks, Cantina Tramin can vinify grapes from specific climate zones separately. The potential and the distinctiveness of each micro-area is thus better understood. This helps the winery orient towards ever higher quality with a finer character expression of each individual varietal.

Cantina Tramin's Epokale Gewürztraminer ages for 7 years deep in a silver mountain mine near Sterzing at a height of 6,500 feet.

After touring the fermentation cellars, Günther brought us to a new addition within the winery’s lower level. Behind towering walls of glass fit for a James Bond film set rested dozens of bottled gems from Cantina Tramin aging until some appointed awakening.

Beyond this vintage bottle cellar, we entered a room cast under the soft glow of wine-red ambient lighting. Before us were mighty French oak wine casks followed by stacks of barriques. Günther shared that the new addition is not only for maturing wines, but also a space to host wine tasting events such as when they introduce new vintages. We certainly understood why. The atmosphere made us want to get lost in a bottle.

Cantina Tramin bottling lloperation — Cantina Tramin’s Pinot Grigio zips through the final stages of bottling before labeling and packaging.

Next, Günther led us to a bottling area where machines hummed a steady rhythm as they produced bottle after bottle of Pinot Grigio — Cantina Tramin’s most popular wine for export.

This was our first time watching a wine bottling operation in action. The automated technology behind producing pallets of wine ready to ship was dazzling to witness.

Vine Meets Swirl: Tasting Cantina Tramin Wines

Günther continued our tour by leading us back upstairs to a tasting room offering the same splendid vineyard and mountain views we soaked in on our first visit. The beauty stretching beyond the windows was intoxicating.

But of course, the addition of wine in such a setting makes it even more spectacular. After consuming Cantina Tramin’s history and witnessing the story behind its wines, we were excited to begin the tasting. Here are the highlights.

Wine Tasting with Günther Facchinelli — After the winery tour, Cantina Tramin’s public relations and communications manager, Günther Facchinelli, guided us through a first-rate tasting of its wines.

Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio – Classic Series. As mentioned above, this is the Pinot Grigio Cantina Tramin sells the most of outside of South Tyrol. We can always find it at our favorite local wine shop. The grapes are sourced from vines planted at elevations ranging from 650 to 1,300+ feet. They thrive in calcareous clay and gravelly soil with long days under the sun followed by brisk nights. Vinification in stainless steel preserves the wine’s fresh tropical fruit flavors and elicits the type of elegant finish we really enjoy during the summer months. On the nose, we caught hints of roses and cloves. It is excellent as a sipping wine or to pair with light salads and seafood. We have bought it priced at $15-$16.

Cantina Tramin Unterebner Pinot Grigio – Selections Series. Our first thought after sipping this top end Pinot Grigio from Cantina Tramin is it mirrors summer. Sprinkling it over snow may just be enough to usher in spring after a long winter. The wine gleamed more golden in color than the Classic Series Pinot Grigio. It was also a fuller wine offering a more powerful expression with aromas of pear, vanilla, toast and tobacco due to partial fermentation in oak barrels, which is quite a unique treatment for Pinot Grigio. The finish lingered beautifully. We were surprised to learn it matures for 14 months and has an aging potential of 7 to 10 years. Günther indicated the wine nicely complements smoked fish and white meats. The price on average is $35.

Cantina Tramin Troy Chardonnay – Selections Series. When we first saw “Troy” on the label we assumed an obscure grape varietal connection to the ancient Greek city. Never assume when in South Tyrol. We found out “Troy” means “path” in Rhaetian, an ancient language spoken in the Alps. The name is a fitting representation of the long journey Cantina Tramin has taken to cultivate an exquisite Chardonnay upon the steep slopes of Tramin.

A feat not so easily achieved in mountainous climates. The winery carefully harvests each grape by hand at elevations nearing 2,000 feet. The grapes then ferment in oak barrels resting on the lees for 16 months before maturing another 22 months in stainless steel tanks. The 2015 wears Alpine freshness on its sleeve showing abundant fresh apple and citrus fragrances. We noticed a pleasant burst of mint on the finish. This is definitely a Chardonnay we would give to any lover of the variety even at the price point of $69.

Cantina Tramin Selida Gewürztraminer – Classic Series. “Selida” means “small farmstead”, and reflects Cantina Tramin’s tradition of working with modest-size plot owners. The small origins of this wine payoff in a big presentation. We found it intensely aromatic with an equally intense yellow color. Its bouquet swirls with roses and mangos. Spicy and sweet in flavor, it would be a fun Alpine wine to sip with sushi. Selida is priced at around $13-$14.

Cantina Tramin Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer – Selections Series. The Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer from Cantina Tramin elevated the notion of fragrant wine to a whole new level for us. We noticed it right out of the bottle. Like the Unterebner, it is a more powerful expression in the winery’s portfolio. This wine whisks you through a garden of aromas and flavors from lilies and ginger to mango, peach, golden apple, apricot and melon. Günther noted Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer complements many dishes such as seafood and Asian as well as blue cheese. We thought it would make an excellent companion to smoked turkey. It is another white from Cantina Tramin that ages gracefully — up to 15 years. $40.

Cantina Tramin Epokale Gewürztraminer – Selections Series. When a wine becomes the first white in Italy to score 100 points, you better believe there is a story behind it. The Epokale Gewürztraminer is born from two of the oldest vineyards in Tramin and a whole lot of darkness.

Epokale ages for 7 years deep in a silver mountain mine near Sterzing at a height of 6,500 feet. The shaft of the mine gives Gewürztraminer a flawless environment to mature in over a course of years as it experiences consistent temperature, humidity and pressure.

The outcome of being trapped in a silver mine for nearly a decade is what can only be described as pure liquid gold.

Cantina Tramin Epokale Gewurtztraminer — After 7 years, the soul of the mountain emerges. Cantina Tramin winemakers carry out the first vintage of Epokale Gewürztraminer.

The 2009 Epokale is the most unique Gewürztraminer we have ever sipped. Exceptionally sweet and smooth all at once. An exceedingly rare wine perfectly balanced to delight all your senses. Getting a bottle is not easy. It is mainly sold to restaurants and in only a few wine shops. Naturally, it comes with a steep price as well at $99+.

Cantina Tramin Maglen Pinot Noir – Selections Series. This high-elevation Pinot Noir stuns on the nose. We delighted in cherries and raspberries. It has a pale ruby color with a bit of a spicy feel in the mouth. The Maglen matures for 12 months in French oak, followed by 6 more months in massive oak casks. We would consider this a crisp, easy-drinking red and could see ourselves enjoying it with various pasta dishes. $40

Cantina Tramin Lagrein — Swirling a glass of ruby-red Lagrein from Alto Adige is one of the simple pleasures in life.

Cantina Tramin Urban Lagrein – Selections Series. The top Lagrein from Cantina Tramin should be a part of your next dinner involving red meats lightly flipped on the grill, wild game or if you’re treating yourself to something as simple as pizza. This wine wows with its ruby color, velvety mouthfeel, fruity flavor with hints of cocoa and full-bodied structure. It matures for 12 months in French oak barrels followed by another 6 months in concrete tanks. After bottling, the Urban Lagrein matures in the bottle an additional 6 months. The price on average is $40.

How to Visit Cantina Tramin

To really savor the essence of these stunning wines, add Cantina Tramin to your South Tyrol trip itinerary. As you can see through this post, the winery is remarkable inside and out. Trust us, spending a day along the South Tyrolean Wine Road with a stop at Cantina Tramin is a relaxing break from hiking in the mountains. The winery sits directly off the wine road between the wine villages of Tramin and Caldaro.

The Cantina Tramin tasting room opens at 9 am Monday through Saturday. You can also book guided tours at their reception area or in advance by contacting the winery.

Of course, you do not have to visit South Tyrol to sip the wines of Cantina Tramin. The winery exports much of its portfolio around the world. And with 1.9 million bottles produced each year, there’s a good chance you can locate Cantina Tramin in a wine shop near you. If not, they can be purchased online at various wine merchants such as Wine.com.

We would like to give special thanks to Sigrid Pichler, Günther Facchinelli and Willi Stürz for sharing the story and wines of Cantina Tramin. Their extensive time with us is greatly appreciated!

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A Swirl with Antiquity – Visiting the Abbey of Novacella

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only one can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world. Nestled just to the north of South Tyrol’s oldest town lies the Abbey of Novacella (also known as “Abbazia di Novacella” in Italian and “Kloster Neustift” in German).

This cultural treasure near Brixen was founded in 1142 — more than 875 years ago. It is among the most stunning historic destinations in South Tyrol. A symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid rolling vineyards and forested slopes.

Anyone admiring the Abbey of Novacella, from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The monastery boasts a labyrinth of structures, courtyards and walls showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo character from various epochs.

The history of Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Wandering the Vines of Novacella

We arrived at the Abbey of Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

Neustift Monastery Castle — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbey of Novacella.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks.

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery.

We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Abbey of Novacella Winery Vineyards — The vineyards of the Abbey of Novacella tumble down slopes to the foot of the monastery. Ancient dry stone walls ease the steepness and act like a furnace for the vines during the cool evenings.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of the Abbey of Novacella (officially labeled as “Abbazia di Novacella” in your wine shop) are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle “it’s better to have less but good”.

Elias Holzer and Kate discussing Novacella wines — Novacella sommelier, Elias Holzer, explaining the winemaking principles of the Abbey of Novacella (also commonly known as Neustift Monastery). Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast from the historic builings.

Following this tenet has guided Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. Novacella began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Admiring the historic Abbey of Novacella garden (also known as Neustift Monastery) — Admiring the natural splendor of the Abbey of Novacella garden.

We wandered on until overlooking the historical gardens of Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess gingko trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

Becoming One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land bearing virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Novacella expanded their operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

The winery of Abbazia di Novacella lies beneath our feet. — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us.

According to Elias, Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” Novacella even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water to precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

Abbazia di Novacella Wine Production — Elias shares how Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touch screen interface, Novacella sets the temperature of its stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

A Stroll Through the Ages

We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbey of Novacella Church Ceiling — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbey of Novacella church is among the finest in South Tyrol.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Striking Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

Towards the end of World War II all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Abbey of Novacella Wunderbrunnen — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean breads.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born from the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an every-day wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Elias promised that to taste it once, is to remember it forever. He was absolutely right.

Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to the Abbey of Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

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Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

When you hear the phrase “rekindle the romance” what comes to mind? A quiet candlelight dinner? A dozen red roses beaming from a vase? Or a long moonlit walk along a beach?

For us, we think of sipping heavenly wines, exploring crumbling castles, soaking in breath-stealing mountain views and more wine. Always more wine.

Luckily, such a place exists. And we didn’t have to suffer a romance novel to experience it.

From Point A to Point Glee

“Your direct flight to Munich has been canceled,” said the woman behind the ticket counter who wore a face way too cheery for such news this early in the morning. The words hit us like a hangover. “We can fly you to Copenhagen and then connect you to Munich from there,” she said as if the two cities were only blocks apart. “Okay, guess that will have to work,” we fired back. A first world problem of this magnitude was not about to spoil our mood.

Of course, we knew right then this airline snafu would most certainly result in lost luggage. And sure enough, it did. When we finally reached Munich, we sat at the baggage carousel like puppies waiting for a promised treat, but our second bag never arrived. Two first world problems in one day. Only a bottle of wine was going to ease this hurt.

If you have never walked through a vineyard in the early morning light, make a point to add it to your South Tyrol bucket list. Watching mist lift off a canopy of vines as the sunlight streaks across the mountain tops detoxifies the mind unlike anything else.

Fortunately for us, we were bound for a destination where wine would not be in short supply. We hopped in our rental car and zoomed through Bavaria, the Brenner Pass ultimately arriving in Eppan (Appiano), South Tyrol. Only a mere 7 hours later than originally planned. Nevertheless, our hearts sang with glee to be in the heart of South Tyrol’s most celebrated wine region.

Eppan is a quaint village along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. This lush area rolls with Mediterranean bliss from one hill to the next. Stately manors sit amidst vast vineyards and orchards — painting a romantic scene that would make even Casanova gush.

A Haven in the Vines

It was late into the evening as we turned up the road toward Donà Winery (officially Weingut Donà in German), a family-owned wine estate and villa offering guests a chance to relax in the middle of vineyards while enjoying the company of the Dolomites in the distance. Since night had fallen, we were thankful to have grapevines guiding us until reaching the villa parking lot.

While getting out of our car, we spotted a structure high up on the mountain cast under a glow of lights. What historic haunt could possibly be sitting up there we wondered?

Our apartment was immediately inviting. Warm alpine wood accents complemented a modern, minimalist style. This gave it a spacious yet cozy look we appreciated. We fell in love with a charming dining nook tucked into the corner of the kitchen by a window. The thought of awakening there in the morning with a cup of coffee while admiring treasures out the window was enticing.

But first, we needed some serious rest. We both collapsed into bed and let the weight of traveling much longer than anticipated carry us into a deep sleep.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure Awaits You in South Tyrol

Sun-kissed in South Tyrol

Eppan South Tyrol Vineyards — Weingut Donà puts you in the heart of South Tyrolean wine country with epic views of the majestic Dolomites.

Morning seemed to arrive in a blink. The winery’s position on a hill allowed the dawning sun to pour into the apartment. We welcomed every glorious ray. A balcony off the living room provided the first daylight peek of our surroundings. Grapevines encircled us. In the distance, glistening like stone angels beyond the rooftops of Bolzano, stood the snow-blessed peaks of the Dolomites.

But the breathtaking views did not end there. The Texel Group of mountains beckoned with splendor north of Lana and Merano. The sun washed over the winery revealing an Italian-style villa with the swooning romantic allure one finds in a painting. Storming upward directly behind it was the Mendola mountain range with a castle gripping its edge.

The look of awe on our faces must have been rather obvious as we were soon greeted with a knowing smile by Martina Waldner Donà, the owner of Weingut Donà. She warmly introduced herself and informed us the castle was called “Hocheppan”.

We were somewhat familiar with this medieval fortress as we knew its 13th-century chapel held the earliest known fresco depicting a man eating one of our favorite Tyrolean dishes: knödel (dumplings).

Of course, we had to know if the castle was accessible. Martina indicated it certainly was by foot, but that the interior was closed for the season. Since a good hike is always on our mind in South Tyrol, we decided a trek to Castle Hocheppan was a must. Even if we couldn’t plant our behinds in its throne, seeing it up close would still be unforgettable.

Kate at Dona Winery — Kate admiring the centuries-old Hocheppan Castle high above Weingut Donà.

Martina shared a bit more about the area and cordially checked to see if the apartment met our expectations. Her passion for exceptional service and bubbly personality made us feel right at home immediately. Before heading back inside to get ready for a day trip to Bolzano, we scheduled a winery tour and tasting with Martina the day after our castle hike. Hiking up a mountain the same day as a wine tasting did not seem wise. Castle hunting in South Tyrol demands steady legs.

Immersion in South Tyrol’s Wine Culture

The morning after our castle hike was just as gorgeous as the previous two. We savored the sunlight pouring in again while nibbling on fresh Schüttelbrot that Martina graciously left us the day before. Schüttelbrot is an Alpine-spiced rye flatbread that is a crispy treat common in South Tyrol.

Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà's Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry.

Afterward, a stroll through the vineyard just outside our door was too tempting to pass up. If you have never walked through a vineyard in the early morning light, make a point to add it to your South Tyrol bucket list. Watching mist lift off a canopy of vines as the sunlight streaks across the mountain tops detoxifies the mind unlike anything else.

Martina eventually greeted us with a bag of freshly picked apples from one of Weingut Donà’s orchards. Their juiciness looked enticing, but sinking our teeth in one had to wait as we were anxious to sip some wine. She led us below the villa to a boutique wine operation and cellar.

Martina at Weingut Dona — Martina points out the significance of the mountain silhouette on the Weingut Donà logo.

We discovered Weingut Donà is a family-run winery built by Martina and her husband, Hansjörg, who spent several years working as a winemaker for other respected wineries in the region. Combining skills and passions, they brought to life their vision of producing fine wines within a setting where guests can immerse themselves in South Tyrol’s unique wine culture.

The family’s winemaking principles center around sustainability and high quality. A long-term approach guides everything they do. The right touch of state-of-art technology along with careful cultivation by hand ensures Weingut Donà produces only the best wines. A handful of stainless steel fermentation tanks at the winery produce a remarkable amount of reds and whites — 30,000 bottles each year.

Adventures in Sipping

From the fermentation area, Martina led us to an enchanting tasting room lined with French oak barrels, which the winery uses to mature its wines. She informed us nearly 4 hectares of vineyards surround the winery. Donà also relies on grapes from a vineyard in Dorf Tirol to produce its award-winning Sauvignon Blanc. Other Donà varietals include Chardonnay, Vernatsch, Lagrein and Merlot. Hotels and restaurants in South Tyrol purchase the majority of its wines, but guests can purchase them as well.

We began our tasting with Weingut Donà’s Terlaner Chardonnay. Typically, we skip over Chardonnays when at a wine shop, but the Chardonnay from Weingut Donà was a masterpiece. It was nicely balanced. Both crisp and lush imparting hints of green-apple flavors.

Next, Martina poured their Vernatsch (also known as Schiava). This varietal has really grown on us during our time in South Tyrol. The Vernatsch was as delicious as any we have tried. Martina indicated that after 5 years of producing it, Weingut Donà won the top award for Vernatsch in Italy. We could easily see ourselves drinking it at any time of year.

We followed the Vernatsch with Weingut Donà’s Lagrein. Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà’s Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry. Lagrein always pleasantly surprises as it is lighter than its color would indicate.

Our final wine was a Lagrein Merlot blend. This beauty was new to us. Martina paired the wine with a hard Parmesan-like cheese from Mila — a local dairy producer that creates authentic Alpine flavors by using milk only from South Tyrol cows. We consider South Tyrolean milk the best in the world so naturally, every bite was a delight.

Weingut Dona Lagrein Merlot — Martina took us on a grand journey through her family’s world-class wines.

The Lagrein Merlot itself was excellent. The Merlot lent a more bold character that danced with subtle fruit flavors. With a big smile, Martina made our sample a full pour and we all toasted to an exquisite tasting. It was a true joy to spend time with her and learn more about the family business and South Tyrolean wines.

Beyond All Expectations

After the tasting, Martina gave us a tour of the largest apartment at Weingut Donà. The villa apartment sleeps 6 making it an ideal escape for a family or group of friends. A bachelorette weekend or girls getaway here would be one to remember. Weingut Donà offers the perfect mix of world wine adventure with the cosmopolitan charm of Bolzano just minutes away.

We could not imagine a better way to ease into our adventures in the Dolomites than staying at Weingut Donà.

Before moving onto our next day trip to Merano, Martina gave us a restaurant recommendation in nearby Lana, a charming town filled with sights and adventures under the forested summit of Mt. Vigiljoch. She even called the owner to make sure a table would be available. Then she invited us to park our car at the family’s additional holiday apartments in town where we connected with her daughter, Franziska. This level of service was not expected but was also not surprising given her kind nature.

After a 15-minute car ride, we arrived in Lana and met Franziska. She was just as gracious as her mother, spending time with us to make sure we had a good understanding of how to find the restaurant and other key sights in Lana. We learned the Donà family offers 12 apartments located in the heart of this mountainside town.

Before darting off to the restaurant, we strolled the cobblestone streets of Lana for a bit. A shop called LAiMER caught our eye. Its window display showcased watches and glasses unlike any we had ever seen. We popped in for a quick visit and discovered this South Tyrolean company crafts all of its products with wood. The designs were exquisite. Forty euros later Kate walked out with a sleek wood bracelet.

1477 Reichhalter Restaurant — The 1477 Reichhalter restaurant in Lana offers a traditional cuisine that you’ll dream about long after your last bite.

By the time we arrived at the restaurant, 1477 Reichhalter, we were craving a serious meal. Funny how wine before lunch tends to do that. We sat in a small dining room resembling an old farmhouse inn. Despite the traditional country ambiance, our hunger talked us into splitting the meals between Italian and South Tyrolean. Both were more than satisfying. If it wasn’t for being full, we just might have immediately reordered a second round of the dishes.

Staying at Weingut Donà

The following morning we departed the winery for our stay right below the Schlern / Sciliar massif — the Dolomite giant known as Witches’ Mountain which we long admired from our balcony. We could not imagine a better way to ease into our adventures in the Dolomites than staying at Weingut Donà. Even for those not fans of wine, the villa’s location is among the best to embark on the Three Castles Walk, as well as explore much of South Tyrol’s diverse landscapes and cultural offerings.

And in case you’re still wondering if we ever received our 2nd bag from the airline. The answer is a resounding yes. The bag magically showed up a couple of days into our stay. Martina kindly placed it inside the apartment for us.

If you’re interested in staying in Eppan along the South Tyrolean Wine Road, explore availability at Weingut Donà. The value you will receive at the rates they charge is exceptional.

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Additional photos of Weingut Donà credited to Florian Andergassen.

Mountain Born Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery

By Kate & Vin 43 Comments

Driving along the South Tyrolean Wine Road it’s hard not to be distracted by the sheer beauty that unfolds around every corner and hill. Lush vineyards continuously dazzle one’s eyes as they cascade down steeply terraced slopes toward waves of vibrant apple orchards.

Beyond the natural grandeur, centuries-old castles and steeples dot the Italian landscape endlessly adding to one’s sense of wonder. Among all this medieval magnificence, you’ll also encounter modern architectural marvels that arouse even more intrigue to the mountainous skylines.

As we arrived for our tour and tasting at the Nals Margreid Winery in Nalles, a quaint mountain hamlet between Merano and Bolzano, it became clear that South Tyroleans’ love for wine may only be rivaled by their passion for erecting striking structures.

The Nals Margreid Winery impresses within and without. Designed by South Tyrolean architect, Markus Scherzer, and built in 2011 after the merger of The Cellars Nalles and Magre-Niclara wineries, the main building springs up from its natural surroundings resembling intricately engineered origami.

Massive windows reveal the winery’s inner workings. The entire wine production process is visible from the barrels, presses and vats. Peering inside it’s evident that while functionality and sustainable production were paramount to the building’s state-of-the-art design, aesthetics were not sacrificed in any way. No doubt a testament to the exceptional creative talents of hard-working South Tyroleans.

The Architect of Wine

After taking in the winery from the outside, we proceed to the main court which resembles a charming town square. We find our friend and South Tyrol expert, Reka Hukari, inside the winery’s rustic vinoteque located in the winery’s older structure. Soon, we are met by Nals Margried’s winemaker, Harald Schraffl.

Nals Margreid Building and Cellars — Designed by South Tyrolean architect, Markus Scherzer, the Nals Margreid Winery springs up from its natural surroundings resembling intricately engineered origami.

Harald has been the winery’s technical magician since 2005. Upon meeting him, one can’t help wonder if he is a close relative of Brad Pitt. We mention this to him and he assures us with a good laugh that he is not! Harald leads us through the vinoteque back to the courtyard. He points out that the vinoteque, like the rest of the winery, blends modern elements with the old such as its cobblestone flooring, which dates back to 1764. Not coincidentally, we soon learn Harald’s philosophy for producing wines exhibits the same reverence for tradition and innovation.

A hallmark of Nals Margreid wines is their sophisticated harmonization with the natural environment.

In the courtyard, we enjoy another sunlit evening as Harald tells us about the vineyards Nals Margreid relies on to produce its exquisite vintages. Today, 140 growers cultivate a wide range of local grape varieties covering more than 370 acres of vineyards, which sit at 200 and 900 meters above sea level.

Harald points to a map anchored to the side of the winery. It identifies vineyards weaving through 14 wine growing areas in Alto Adige — spanning from Nalles/Nals to Magrè/Margreid. Given this large expanse of growing areas, Nals Margeid wine expresses an incredible range of microclimates and soils.

Cultivating a Balance Between Innovation & Tradition

We move from the courtyard into the initial production facility in the winery’s new building. Here, Harald shares that a hallmark of Nals Margreid wines is their sophisticated harmonization with the natural environment. The winery employs sustainable methods wherever possible. That means no herbicides. Pests and diseases are mitigated through eco-friendly techniques This approach embodies Nals Margreid’s values and extends to the production process.

Once the grapes are brought to the winery, they are sent through the destemmer and immediately pressed. Instead of using pumps through the process, Nals Margreid utilizes the full strength of gravity. This gently ensures the preservation of all the characteristics that the soils and grape varieties impart to the wines. The winery holds 250 steel tanks to separate the grapes from their various producers.

Nals Margreid Winery Tour — Renowned winemaker, Harald Schraffl, explains Nals Margreid’s sustainable production processes.

Next, we follow Harald back outside and across the courtyard where we pause at a seemingly inaccessible cellar. Above us is a looming angular roof structure that appears to float as it juts out into the Alpine sky. Then, like an illusionist, Harald opens a massive hidden door camouflaged as part of the cellar’s outer wall. We laugh and follow him inside.

Alto Adige produces the world’s best Pinot Bianco and Nals Margreid’s Sirmian should be at the top of your list. It is unforgettable.

He gives us a tour through rows of stacked barrels performing their aging alchemy to transform grapes into vintages certain to wow the lips. We learn the oldest cellar on site dates back to 1764.

A View to a Swirl

After strolling around the cellars, Harald leads us up to the winery’s tasting area. We step out onto an inviting terrace that draws our eyes over an impressive vista filled with mountains and rustic rooftops. Drinking wine anywhere is a pleasure. Here, it is divine.

After inhaling the view, we join Harald at a table where he has set out three bottles of wine for us to sample.

The first is the award-winning 2015 Sirmian Pinot Bianco also known as Weissburgunder. Just as South Tyrol is Italy’s best-kept secret, the same could be said for Pinot Bianco, which is a more enlightening counterpart to Pinot Grigio. Alto Adige produces the world’s best Pinot Bianco and Nals Margreid’s Sirmian should be at the top of your list. It is unforgettable. And no surprise the wine Nals Margreid is most famous for.

Once poured and swirled in our glasses, the wine reveals aromas of apple, pineapple and peach. It delightfully dances in the mouth and has a slightly acidic finish. A true expression of Alpine wine. Harald mentions that this wine is the perfect companion to pasta, risotto or fish. We can’t wait to try it at our next meal.

Next, we taste the 2015 Mantele Sauvignon, which is aged 8 months in big oak barrels. Its fresh and fruity aromas include notes of citrus, grapefruit, blooming elderflower and pepper. Harald informs us the deep gravel of the Mantele growing area provides their Sauvignon with its spiciness and body. The area’s cool evenings and the high heat during the day help imbue its fresh structure and fruity bouquet. It is a wine that goes well with starters and veggie-based dishes especially asparagus. We really enjoyed this wine and could easily make it our go-to when relaxing on a summer day.

Last, we taste the intensely crimson 2015 Lagrein, which is grown further south near Bolzano where the grape thrives in warmer temperatures. As we’ve noted in previous posts, Lagrein was relatively unknown to us so we were thrilled to be trying one at Nals Margreid. For those not familiar with Lagrein it is a centuries-old grape native to Alto Adige.

Nals Margreid Wines — A trio of beauties from Nals Margreid. Our wine tasting included a Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon and Lagrein.

Nals Margreid’s Lagrein revealed blueberry aromas, a trace of cherry and medium-bodied with a spicy taste. As fans of wild game, this is a wine we would definitely choose when enjoying venison stew. However, we thought it was also nicely balanced and could enjoy it on its own while unwinding after a busy day.

After the wine tasting, Harald invited us to consume the view from the terrace a bit longer. We were not about to decline. When you encounter such sights you’d be crazy not to savor it just like a fine glass of wine.

A Gem Not to Miss While in South Tyrol

Nals Margreid’s star is rising in the United States. While it’s a newer market for the winery, be sure to ask for their exquisite wines at your local wine shop. We recently found a Nals Margreid 2014 Galea Schiava, which is a lighter-bodied red from the winery. After pouring, it required a bit of breathing before opening up into an easy to drink wine that was truly delicious (it did not last long!). We have since gone back and purchased a few more bottles for our wine rack.

If you’re planning a trip to South Tyrol, add Nals Margreid to your itinerary. You will not be disappointed. With a rental car, you can easily reach the winery, which is located on the northern end of the South Tyrolean Wine Road. If you are blessed to have Harald as your guide, tell him greetings from Throne & Vine!

You can learn more about Nals Margreid’s wines and available tours by visiting their website.

Divinely Alpine – Exploring the Wines of Elena Walch

By Kate & Vin 67 Comments

When one of Italy’s most celebrated winemaking regions boasts 3,000 years of viniculture, it’s hard to imagine there’s much room for improvement. Unless you’re Elena Walch.

In the 1980s, Elena married into one of the oldest winemaking families in Italy’s northernmost wine region, Alto Adige (also known as South Tyrol), a stirring Alpine wonderland alive with countless castles, storybook villages, lush valleys and the most stunning vineyards in the world. With her, she brought vision, paired with passion. And within a matter of years that potent combination saw Elena instill innovation into age-old winemaking practices — elevating Alto Adige wines into the realm of unrivaled quality.

When I first heard about Elena Walch I was instantly intrigued. How often are women celebrated for boldly challenging the status quo? Not nearly enough. Before we left on our latest South Tyrolean adventure, my husband, Vin, and I made plans to visit her estate. The trip did not disappoint.

Where Ancient Traditions Marry Modern Elegance

After finishing a late breakfast we drive about half an hour into the heart of Alto Adige’s winegrowing region — breezing past tempting photo opps and idyllic hillside towns along the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Weinstrasse). We eventually arrive at Tramin — a wine village seemingly lost in time and home to the Elena Walch estate.

We park and meander through Tramin’s winding passageways toward the winery. The village peacefully invites you into the past. And if we were here on any other day I would have likely let its seductive stillness transport me. I make mental notes on sights to revisit later.

Tramin on the wine road in South Tyrol — The church of St. Quirikus and Julitta in Tramin demands your attention from the South Tyrolean Wine Road with its striking Gothic steeple. It crowns the highest free-standing stone masonry tower in South Tyrol.

The Elena Walch estate unfolds from the cobblestone surroundings and reveals beautifully landscaped grounds bringing to mind a scene from The Secret Garden. Walking through the entrance we notice touches of modern elegance blending into the estate’s historic architecture.

Anna Marsoner, our guide for the morning, soon greets us with a wide, warm smile. We exchange introductions and begin our tour by following her to the winery’s newest addition.

Elena Walch Wine Estate Grounds — Elena Walch wines are made among some of the most beautifully manicured grounds in South Tyrol.

We walk into a room with towering glass walls graciously offering views of distant mountains. Anna invites us down steps into a state-of-the-art fermentation cellar. We are immediately struck by the happiest of all aromas — grapes becoming wine.

We encounter rows of French and Slovenian oak barriques masterfully aging wine into expressions distinct to Elena Walch.

Built in 2015, the cellar holds immense stainless steel fermentation tanks. An LED display glows from a nearby wall and Anna shows us how the winery applies climate control technology to produce vintages to exacting standards.

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The room is softly lit by violet lighting that delicately shimmers off each tank. Anna tells us Elena was an accomplished architect before her marriage. The exquisite ambiance of this space leaves no doubt in my mind.

Elena Walch Winery Tour — Anna walks through how Elena Walch’s state-of-the-art fermentation cellar allows the winery to consistently produce high-quality vintages.

Moving on we venture deeper into the cellar entering a vast room that looks to be carved out of a mountain. Here, more massive steel fermenting tanks stand against stone walls naturally cooling the cellar air.

Anna ducks us into a tunnel that runs to a dark cavernous area. It looks like we are walking through a passage that belongs deep within the belly of a castle. We encounter rows of French and Slovenian oak barriques masterfully aging wine into expressions distinct to Elena Walch.

Elena Walch Cellar Tunnel — Deeper into the mountain we go.

She tells us the first building on the property was a Jesuit convent for 70 years before being purchased by the Austrian founder, Wilhelm Walch, in 1869. From here, we head up steps into another cellar where massive wooden casks surround us from all sides. As much as the new fermentation cellar gave us a peek into the winery’s future, these imposing wooden monoliths wow us back in time.

The face of each cask bears the ornate craftsmanship of woodcarvers from Val Gardena, a valley in Alto Adige’s Dolomites mountain range. Every chiseled mark forges a story commemorating significant occasions in the estate’s history.

I stare at them as if I am in an art gallery. One can’t help wonder how long it took to carve out such detail…and how these immense wine barrels were transported long ago. The artisans certainly did not roll them down the mountain.

Kate looking up at massive wine barrels of Elena walch. — The massive casks of Elena Walch are true works of art in the wine world.

The oldest cask dates back to 1878. But, the one I find most interesting has a delightfully mischievous depiction. Thanks to a poor translation, the woodcarver etched horns on a likeness of Moses rather than the intended halo.

The value of preserving vineyards for future generations has become a celebrated standard in Alto Adige thanks to pioneers like Elena.

The largest cask is born of Slovenian Oak from Croatia and holds 180 hectoliters. Anna quickly puts the number into terms we can grasp telling us it would take 65 years and 7 months to empty completely!

While admiring these historic casks, Anna informs us Elena Walch produces 500,000 bottles each year primarily from two nearby vineyards, Castel Ringberg and Kastelaz. In total, her vineyards comprise 60 hectares. Hard to picture? Imagine roughly 60 baseball fields flush with vines.

Elena Walch Woodcarved Wine Casks — Moses with horns? The woodcarver may have had too much wine. He mistakenly chiseled a pair of horns on the biblical figure rather than a halo.

Continuing on we are surprised to learn hands pick every single grape that goes into an Elena Walch wine bottle. I am ready to volunteer. Anna also informs us the vineyards flourish without applying any herbicides.

Elena was among the first in Alto Adige to make sustainability a hallmark of her wines. This meant producing wine in harmony with nature and reducing quantity to place supreme importance on uncompromising quality.

Taking such a position was initially met with resistance by wine producers firmly rooted in tradition, but the value of preserving vineyards for future generations has become a celebrated standard in Alto Adige thanks to pioneers like Elena. Nearly every facet of her wine production considers the environmental impact — from practicing sustainable cultivation to solar powering the estate to using corks from forests certified by the Forest Stewardship Council.

Tasting Elena Walch Wines

As our tour comes to an end, Anna leaves us in the estate’s garden where a table with wine glasses radiates in the late morning light. We sit down and enjoy the sun pouring through the trees. In no time we are greeted by Karoline Walch, one of Elena’s two daughters actively working in the family business. Karoline and her sister, Julia, are poised to follow in their mother’s footsteps and one day lead the estate.

Karoline enthusiastically joins us at the tasting table. Her passion is immediately evident as she takes us on a journey through an array of her family’s award-winning wines. We begin with the single vineyard Pinot Bianco “Kristallberg”, the grapes of which are grown at a height of 600 meters (nearly 2,000 feet).

The vineyard’s dramatic temperature swings between night and day give the Pinot Bianco “Kristallberg” a bright crispness, mineral tones and a bouquet flush with green apple and white peach. After a couple of sips, I find myself indulging more than tasting. The wine sings with summer elegance and I make a mental note to serve this splendor at my sister’s baby shower in August.

One sip of Elena Walch’s Gewurtztraminer and it’s clear this is a wine that demands to be noticed.

After we finish sampling the Pinot Bianco we move on to the only Vigna-certified Pinot Grigio in Italy. Karoline shares that after five years a vineyard may apply for Vigna certification, which certifies the wine is born from a single, geographically-defined vineyard. Producing a wine in this manner ensures the heart and soul of the land are personified in each bottle — a guiding philosophy of the Elena Walch estate.

Pinot Grigio is my personal vice, so I am especially excited to try Elena Walch’s Pinot Grigio “Vigna Castel Ringberg”. Its rich fullness and fruity aroma immediately impress as I sip. Now, I have two Elena Walch wines I must serve at my sister’s shower.

Naturally, I want more, but we continue with the Sauvignon “Vigna Castel Ringberg”. This wine equally pleases — perfectly balancing its Alpine heart with its French roots. My wine list for the shower grows by one more.

Karoline Walch & Kate — Karoline Walch joined us to conduct a grand tasting of the family’s award-winning wines.

Next, we try Elena Walch’s Gewurztraminer “Vigna Kastelaz”, the most popular and award-winning wine in her portfolio. Translated, Gewurztraminer means “Spices of Tramin”, which is quite fitting as this northern Italian treasure pairs best with spicy Asian cuisine, seafood, cheeses and dessert. One sip of Elena Walch’s Gewurtztraminer and it’s clear this is a wine that demands to be noticed. It is immensely lush and intensely complex. A delight for both the nose and mouth. Vin says this is his personal favorite.

What makes Elena Walch’s Gewurztraminer especially unique is where the grapes are grown. All vineyards in Alto Adige face to the East or West, but Elena Walch’s Kastelaz vineyard is an exception. It is the only south-facing vineyard in Alto Adige. Here, the vines thrive on a steep 63-degree slope and enjoy cool Mediterranean winds from Italy’s Lake Garda.

While Alto Adige is best known for world-class white wines, the red wines from Elena Walch should be on your radar. The last two wines we sample are the Pinot Nero “Ludwig” and the Lagrein Riserva “Castel Ringberg”.

Recently named the second best Pinot Noir in all of Italy, the Elena Walch Pinot Nero “Ludwig” is enticingly ruby red in color and delicately juicy. The finish is smooth with a slight tanginess. Definitely a wine I want to explore further.

Like the Pinot Grigio we tasted, the grapes for Elena Walch’s Lagrein Riserva come from the winery’s Castel Ringberg vineyard. Set on a hill off of the South Tyrolean Wine Road, the Castel Ringberg vineyard overlooks the sky blue waters of Lake Caldaro. A castle built in 1620 rises from the surrounding vines.

We admit to Karoline the Lagrein grape is a bit of a mystery. She informs us it is a sun-loving grape native to Alto Adige and is a cross between Syrah and Pinot Noir.

Enjoying Elena Walch's Lagrein — Elena Walch’s Lagrein Riserva made us raving fans of this lesser known red.

In our wine glasses, the Lagrein Riserva showcases a deep red color. Its nose recalls an Alpine berry jam we enjoyed at breakfast earlier. The wine itself is robust with touches of spice and fruit and has a pleasantly long finish.

Karoline points out that it pairs well with venison and other meats. Vin comments he can’t wait to try it with the wild game in our freezer back home. That is a nice thought for him, but I am busy thinking about how we can stay longer at this heavenly place.

We conclude our tasting with Karoline, but before leaving the garden we enjoy more Lagrein and a savory plate of local specialty cheeses and cold cuts from La Verre Capricieux — a stylish bistro on the property.

Get to Know Elena Walch Wines First Hand

Our time at the Elena Walch estate was a truly inspiring way to spend a morning in Alto Adige. Elena Walch’s impeccable wines are not to miss. And touring the estate is a must when visiting this part of Italy. Like us, you’ll come away with a deep appreciation for the eloquent vision and devotion to quality Elena Walch, her daughters and the estate’s staff bring to every bottle they produce.

When traveling the South Tyrolean Wine Road, you can also visit the Castel Ringberg estate of Elena Walch, which offers stunning views of Lake Caldaro you won’t forget.

You can learn more about these amazing Alto Adige wines and available tours by visiting the Elena Walch website. Be sure to ask for Elena Walch the next time you are at your local wine shop.

And if you don’t know South Tyrol, Italy, do your wanderlust heart a favor and discover why it needs to be at the top of your travel wishlist.

South Tyrol’s Lake Caldaro beams from just beyond the rolling vineyards of Elena Walch.

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