Alto Adige Wines

A Swirl with Antiquity – Visiting the Abbey of Novacella

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only one can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world. Nestled just to the north of South Tyrol’s oldest town lies the Abbey of Novacella (also known as “Abbazia di Novacella” in Italian and “Kloster Neustifit” in German).

This cultural treasure near Brixen was founded in 1142 — more than 875 years ago. It is among the most stunning historic destinations in South Tyrol. A symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid rolling vineyards and forested slopes.

Anyone admiring the Abbey of Novacella, from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The monastery boasts a labyrinth of structures, courtyards and walls showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo character from various epochs.

The history of Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Wandering the Vines of Novacella

We arrived at the Abbey of Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

Neustift Monastery Castle — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbey of Novacella.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks.

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery.

We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Abbey of Novacella Winery Vineyards — The vineyards of the Abbey of Novacella tumble down slopes to the foot of the monastery. Ancient dry stone walls ease the steepness and act like a furnace for the vines during the cool evenings.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of the Abbey of Novacella (officially labeled as “Abbazia di Novacella” in your wine shop) are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle “it’s better to have less but good”.

Elias Holzer and Kate discussing Novacella wines — Novacella sommelier, Elias Holzer, explaining the winemaking principles of the Abbey of Novacella (also commonly known as Neustift Monastery). Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast from the historic builings.

Following this tenet has guided Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. Novacella began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Admiring the historic Abbey of Novacella garden (also known as Neustift Monastery) — Admiring the natural splendor of the Abbey of Novacella garden.

We wandered on until overlooking the historical gardens of Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess gingko trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

Becoming One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land bearing virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Novacella expanded their operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

The winery of Abbazia di Novacella lies beneath our feet. — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us.

According to Elias, Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” Novacella even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water to precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

Abbazia di Novacella Wine Production — Elias shares how Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touch screen interface, Novacella sets the temperature of its stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

A Stroll Through the Ages

We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbey of Novacella Church Ceiling — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbey of Novacella church is among the finest in South Tyrol.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Striking Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

Towards the end of World War II all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Abbey of Novacella Wunderbrunnen — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean breads.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born from the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an every-day wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Elias promised that to taste it once, is to remember it forever. He was absolutely right.

Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit the Abbey of Novacella

If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to the Abbey of Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

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Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

When you hear the phrase “rekindle the romance” what comes to mind? A quiet candlelight dinner? A dozen red roses beaming from a vase? Or a long moonlit walk along a beach?

For us, we think of sipping heavenly wines, exploring crumbling castles, soaking in breath-stealing mountain views and more wine. Always more wine.

Luckily, such a place exists. And we didn’t have to suffer a romance novel to experience it.

From Point A to Point Glee

“Your direct flight to Munich has been canceled,” said the woman behind the ticket counter who wore a face way too cheery for such news this early in the morning. The words hit us like a hangover. “We can fly you to Copenhagen and then connect you to Munich from there,” she said as if the two cities were only blocks apart. “Okay, guess that will have to work,” we fired back. A first world problem of this magnitude was not about to spoil our mood.

Of course, we knew right then this airline snafu would most certainly result in lost luggage. And sure enough, it did. When we finally reached Munich, we sat at the baggage carousel like puppies waiting for a promised treat, but our second bag never arrived. Two first world problems in one day. Only a bottle of wine was going to ease this hurt.

If you have never walked through a vineyard in the early morning light, make a point to add it to your South Tyrol bucket list. Watching mist lift off a canopy of vines as the sunlight streaks across the mountain tops detoxifies the mind unlike anything else.

Fortunately for us, we were bound for a destination where wine would not be in short supply. We hopped in our rental car and zoomed through Bavaria, the Brenner Pass ultimately arriving in Eppan (Appiano), South Tyrol. Only a mere 7 hours later than originally planned. Nevertheless, our hearts sang with glee to be in the heart of South Tyrol’s most celebrated wine region.

Eppan is a quaint village along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. This lush area rolls with Mediterranean bliss from one hill to the next. Stately manors sit amidst vast vineyards and orchards — painting a romantic scene that would make even Casanova gush.

A Haven in the Vines

It was late into the evening as we turned up the road toward Donà Winery (officially Weingut Donà in German), a family-owned wine estate and villa offering guests a chance to relax in the middle of vineyards while enjoying the company of the Dolomites in the distance. Since night had fallen, we were thankful to have grape vines guiding us until reaching the villa parking lot.

While getting out of our car, we spotted a structure high up on the mountain cast under a glow of lights. What historic haunt could possibly be sitting up there we wondered?

Our apartment was immediately inviting. Warm alpine wood accents complemented a modern, minimalist style. This gave it a spacious yet cozy look we appreciated. We fell in love with a charming dining nook tucked into the corner of the kitchen by a window. The thought of awakening there in the morning with a cup of coffee while admiring treasures out the window was enticing.

But first, we needed some serious rest. We both collapsed into bed and let the weight of traveling much longer than anticipated carry us into a deep sleep.

Sun-kissed in South Tryol

Eppan South Tyrol Vineyards — Weingut Donà puts you in the heart of South Tyrolean wine country with epic views of the majestic Dolomites.

Morning seemed to arrive in a blink. The winery’s position on a hill allowed the dawning sun to pour into the apartment. We welcomed every glorious ray. A balcony off the living room provided the first daylight peek of our surroundings. Grape vines encircled us. In the distance, glistening like stone angels beyond the rooftops of Bolzano, stood the snow-blessed peaks of the Dolomites.

But the breathtaking views did not end there. The Texel Group of mountains beckoned with splendor north of Lana and Merano. The sun washed over the winery revealing an Italian-style villa with the swooning romantic allure one finds in a painting. Storming upward directly behind it was the Mendola mountain range with a castle gripping its edge.

The look of awe on our faces must have been rather obvious as we were soon greeted with a knowing smile by Martina Waldner Donà, the owner of Weingut Donà. She warmly introduced herself and informed us the castle was called “Hocheppan”.

We were somewhat familiar with this medieval fortress as we knew its 13th-century chapel held the earliest known fresco depicting a man eating one of our favorite Tyrolean dishes: knödel (dumplings).

Of course, we had to know if the castle was accessible. Martina indicated it certainly was by foot, but that the interior was closed for the season. Since a good hike is always on our mind in South Tyrol, we decided a trek to Castle Hocheppan was a must. Even if we couldn’t plant our behinds in its throne, seeing it up close would still be unforgettable.

Kate at Dona Winery — Kate admiring the centuries-old Hocheppan Castle high above Weingut Donà.

Martina shared a bit more about the area and cordially checked to see if the apartment met our expectations. Her passion for exceptional service and bubbly personality made us feel right at home immediately. Before heading back inside to get ready for a day trip to Bolzano, we scheduled a winery tour and tasting with Martina the day after our castle hike. Hiking up a mountain the same day as a wine tasting did not seem wise. Castle hunting in South Tyrol demands steady legs.

Immersion in South Tyrol’s Wine Culture

The morning after our castle hike was just as gorgeous as the previous two. We savored the sunlight pouring in again while nibbling on fresh Schüttelbrot that Martina graciously left us the day before. Schüttelbrot is an Alpine-spiced rye flatbread that is a crispy treat common in South Tyrol.

Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà's Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry.

Afterward, a stroll through the vineyard just outside our door was too tempting to pass up. If you have never walked through a vineyard in the early morning light, make a point to add it to your South Tyrol bucket list. Watching mist lift off a canopy of vines as the sunlight streaks across the mountain tops detoxifies the mind unlike anything else.

Martina eventually greeted us with a bag of freshly picked apples from one of Weingut Donà’s orchards. Their juiciness looked enticing, but sinking our teeth in one had to wait as we were anxious to sip some wine. She led us below the villa to a boutique wine operation and cellar.

Martina at Weingut Dona — Martina points out the significance of the mountain silhouette on the Weingut Donà logo.

We discovered Weingut Donà is a family-run winery built by Martina and her husband, Hansjörg, who spent several years working as a winemaker for other respected wineries in the region. Combining skills and passions, they brought to life their vision of producing fine wines within a setting where guests can immerse themselves in South Tyrol’s unique wine culture.

The family’s winemaking principles center around sustainability and high quality. A long-term approach guides everything they do. The right touch of state-of-art technology along with careful cultivation by hand ensures Weingut Donà produces only the best wines. A handful of stainless steel fermentation tanks at the winery produce a remarkable amount of reds and whites — 30,000 bottles each year.

Adventures in Sipping

From the fermentation area, Martina led us to an enchanting tasting room lined with French oak barrels, which the winery uses to mature its wines. She informed us nearly 4 hectares of vineyards surround the winery. Donà also relies on grapes from a vineyard in Dorf Tirol to produce its award-winning Sauvignon Blanc. Other Donà varietals include Chardonnay, Vernatsch, Lagrein and Merlot. Hotels and restaurants in South Tyrol purchase the majority of its wines, but guests can purchase them as well.

We began our tasting with Weingut Donà’s Terlaner Chardonnay. Typically, we skip over Chardonnays when at a wine shop, but the Chardonnay from Weingut Donà was a masterpiece. It was nicely balanced. Both crisp and lush imparting hints of green-apple flavors.

Next, Martina poured their Vernatsch (also known as Schiava). This varietal has really grown on us during our time in South Tyrol. The Vernatsch was as delicious as any we have tried. Martina indicated that after 5 years of producing it, Weingut Donà won the top award for Vernatsch in Italy. We could easily see ourselves drinking it at any time of year.

We followed the Vernatsch with Weingut Donà’s Lagrein. Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà’s Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry. Lagrein always pleasantly surprises as it is lighter than its color would indicate.

Our final wine was a Lagrein Merlot blend. This beauty was new to us. Martina paired the wine with a hard Parmesan-like cheese from Mila — a local dairy producer that creates authentic Alpine flavors by using milk only from South Tyrol cows. We consider South Tyrolean milk the best in the world so naturally, every bite was a delight.

Weingut Dona Lagrein Merlot — Martina took us on a grand journey through her family’s world-class wines.

The Lagrein Merlot itself was excellent. The Merlot lent a more bold character that danced with subtle fruit flavors. With a big smile, Martina made our sample a full pour and we all toasted to an exquisite tasting. It was a true joy to spend time with her and learn more about the family business and South Tyrolean wines.

Beyond All Expectations

After the tasting, Martina gave us a tour of the largest apartment at Weingut Donà. The villa apartment sleeps 6 making it an ideal escape for a family or group of friends. A bachelorette weekend or girls getaway here would be one to remember. Weingut Donà offers the perfect mix of world wine adventure with the cosmopolitan charm of Bolzano just minutes away.

We could not imagine a better way to ease into our adventures in the Dolomites than staying at Weingut Donà.

Before moving onto our next day trip to Merano, Martina gave us a restaurant recommendation in nearby Lana. She even called the owner to make sure a table would be available. Then she invited us to park our car at the family’s additional holiday apartments in town where we connected with her daughter, Franziska. This level of service was not expected but was also not surprising given her kind nature.

After a 15-minute car ride, we arrived in Lana and met Franziska. She was just as gracious as her mother, spending time with us to make sure we had a good understanding of how to find the restaurant and other key sights in Lana. We learned the Donà family offers 12 apartments located in the heart of this mountainside town.

Before darting off to the restaurant, we strolled the cobblestone streets of Lana for a bit. A shop called LAiMER caught our eye. Its window display showcased watches and glasses unlike any we had ever seen. We popped in for a quick visit and discovered this South Tyrolean company crafts all of its products with wood. The designs were exquisite. Forty euros later Kate walked out with a sleek wood bracelet.

1477 Reichhalter Restaurant — The 1477 Reichhalter restaurant in Lana offers a traditional cuisine that you’ll dream about long after your last bite.

By the time we arrived at the restaurant, 1477 Reichhalter, we were craving a serious meal. Funny how wine before lunch tends to do that. We sat in a small dining room resembling an old farmhouse inn. Despite the traditional country ambiance, our hunger talked us into splitting the meals between Italian and South Tyrolean. Both were more than satisfying. If it wasn’t for being full, we just might have immediately reordered a second round of the dishes.

Staying at Weingut Donà

The following morning we departed the winery for our stay right below the Schlern / Sciliar massif — the Dolomite giant known as Witches’ Mountain which we long admired from our balcony. We could not imagine a better way to ease into our adventures in the Dolomites than staying at Weingut Donà. Even for those not fans of wine, the villa’s location is among the best to embark on the Three Castles Walk, as well as explore much of South Tyrol’s diverse landscapes and cultural offerings.

And in case you’re still wondering if we ever received our 2nd bag from the airline. The answer is a resounding yes. The bag magically showed up a couple of days into our stay. Martina kindly placed it inside the apartment for us.

If you’re interested in staying in Eppan along the South Tyrolean Wine Road, we recommend contacting Weingut Donà directly. The value you will receive at the rates they charge is exceptional.

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Additional photos of Weingut Donà credited to Florian Andergassen.

Mountain Born Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery

By Kate & Vin 43 Comments

Driving along the South Tyrolean Wine Road it’s hard not to be distracted by the sheer beauty that unfolds around every corner and hill. Lush vineyards continuously dazzle one’s eyes as they cascade down steeply terraced slopes toward waves of vibrant apple orchards.

Beyond the natural grandeur, centuries-old castles and steeples dot the Italian landscape endlessly adding to one’s sense of wonder. Among all this medieval magnificence, you’ll also encounter modern architectural marvels that arouse even more intrigue to the mountainous skylines.

As we arrived for our tour and tasting at the Nals Margreid Winery in Nalles, a quaint mountain hamlet between Merano and Bolzano, it became clear that South Tyroleans’ love for wine may only be rivaled by their passion for erecting striking structures.

The Nals Margreid Winery impresses within and without. Designed by South Tyrolean architect, Markus Scherzer, and built in 2011 after the merger of The Cellars Nalles and Magre-Niclara wineries, the main building springs up from its natural surroundings resembling intricately engineered origami.

Massive windows reveal the winery’s inner workings. The entire wine production process is visible from the barrels, presses and vats. Peering inside it’s evident that while functionality and sustainable production were paramount to the building’s state-of-the-art design, aesthetics were not sacrificed in any way. No doubt a testament to the exceptional creative talents of hard-working South Tyroleans.

The Architect of Wine

After taking in the winery from the outside, we proceed to the main court which resembles a charming town square. We find our friend and South Tyrol expert, Reka Hukari, inside the winery’s rustic vinoteque located in the winery’s older structure. Soon, we are met by Nals Margried’s winemaker, Harald Schraffl.

Nals Margreid Building and Cellars — Designed by South Tyrolean architect, Markus Scherzer, the Nals Margreid Winery springs up from its natural surroundings resembling intricately engineered origami.

Harald has been the winery’s technical magician since 2005. Upon meeting him, one can’t help wonder if he is a close relative of Brad Pitt. We mention this to him and he assures us with a good laugh that he is not! Harald leads us through the vinoteque back to the courtyard. He points out that the vinoteque, like the rest of the winery, blends modern elements with the old such as its cobblestone flooring, which dates back to 1764. Not coincidentally, we soon learn Harald’s philosophy for producing wines exhibits the same reverence for tradition and innovation.

A hallmark of Nals Margreid wines is their sophisticated harmonization with the natural environment.

In the courtyard, we enjoy another sunlit evening as Harald tells us about the vineyards Nals Margreid relies on to produce its exquisite vintages. Today, 140 growers cultivate a wide range of local grape varieties covering more than 370 acres of vineyards, which sit at 200 and 900 meters above sea level.

Harald points to a map anchored to the side of the winery. It identifies vineyards weaving through 14 wine growing areas in Alto Adige — spanning from Nalles/Nals to Magrè/Margreid. Given this large expanse of growing areas, Nals Margeid wine expresses an incredible range of microclimates and soils.

Cultivating a Balance Between Innovation & Tradition

We move from the courtyard into the initial production facility in the winery’s new building. Here, Harald shares that a hallmark of Nals Margreid wines is their sophisticated harmonization with the natural environment. The winery employs sustainable methods wherever possible. That means no herbicides. Pests and diseases are mitigated through eco-friendly techniques This approach embodies Nals Margreid’s values and extends to the production process.

Once the grapes are brought to the winery, they are sent through the destemmer and immediately pressed. Instead of using pumps through the process, Nals Margreid utilizes the full strength of gravity. This gently ensures the preservation of all the characteristics that the soils and grape varieties impart to the wines. The winery holds 250 steel tanks to separate the grapes from their various producers.

Harald Schraffl discusses Nals Margreids wine production techniques — Renowned winemaker, Harald Schraffl, explains Nals Margreid’s sustainable production processes.

Next, we follow Harald back outside and across the courtyard where we pause at a seemingly inaccessible cellar. Above us is a looming angular roof structure that appears to float as it juts out into the Alpine sky. Then, like an illusionist, Harald opens a massive hidden door camouflaged as part of the cellar’s outer wall. We laugh and follow him inside.

Alto Adige produces the world’s best Pinot Bianco and Nals Margreid’s Sirmian should be at the top of your list. It is unforgettable.

He gives us a tour through rows of stacked barrels performing their aging alchemy to transform grapes into vintages certain to wow the lips. We learn the oldest cellar on site dates back to 1764.

A View to a Swirl

After strolling around the cellars, Harald leads us up to the winery’s tasting area. We step out onto an inviting terrace that draws our eyes over an impressive vista filled with mountains and rustic rooftops. Drinking wine anywhere is a pleasure. Here, it is divine.

After inhaling the view, we join Harald at a table where he has set out three bottles of wine for us to sample.

The first is the award-winning 2015 Sirmian Pinot Bianco also known as Weissburgunder. Just as South Tyrol is Italy’s best-kept secret, the same could be said for Pinot Bianco, which is a more enlightening counterpart to Pinot Grigio. Alto Adige produces the world’s best Pinot Bianco and Nals Margreid’s Sirmian should be at the top of your list. It is unforgettable. And no surprise the wine Nals Margreid is most famous for.

Once poured and swirled in our glasses, the wine reveals aromas of apple, pineapple and peach. It delightfully dances in the mouth and has a slightly acidic finish. A true expression of Alpine wine. Harald mentions that this wine is the perfect companion to pasta, risotto or fish. We can’t wait to try it at our next meal.

Next, we taste the 2015 Mantele Sauvignon, which is aged 8 months in big oak barrels. Its fresh and fruity aromas include notes of citrus, grapefruit, blooming elderflower and pepper. Harald informs us the deep gravel of the Mantele growing area provides their Sauvignon with its spiciness and body. The area’s cool evenings and the high heat during the day help imbue its fresh structure and fruity bouquet. It is a wine that goes well with starters and veggie-based dishes especially asparagus. We really enjoyed this wine and could easily make it our go-to when relaxing on a summer day.

Last, we taste the intensely crimson 2015 Lagrein, which is grown further south near Bolzano where the grape thrives in warmer temperatures. As we’ve noted in previous posts, Lagrein was relatively unknown to us so we were thrilled to be trying one at Nals Margreid. For those not familiar with Lagrein it is a centuries-old grape native to Alto Adige.

Nals Margreid Wines — Our wine tasting included a Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon and Lagrein.

Nals Margreid’s Lagrein revealed blueberry aromas, a trace of cherry and medium-bodied with a spicy taste. As fans of wild game, this is a wine we would definitely choose when enjoying venison stew. However, we thought it was also nicely balanced and could enjoy it on its own while unwinding after a busy day.

After the wine tasting, Harald invited us to consume the view from the terrace a bit longer. We were not about to decline. When you encounter such sights you’d be crazy not to savor it just like a fine glass of wine.

A Gem Not to Miss While in South Tyrol

Nals Margreid’s star is rising in the United States. While it’s a newer market for the winery, be sure to ask for their exquisite wines at your local wine shop. We recently found a Nals Margreid 2014 Galea Schiava, which is a lighter bodied red from the winery. After pouring, it required a bit of breathing before opening up into an easy to drink wine that was truly delicious (it did not last long!). We have since gone back and purchased a few more bottles for our wine rack.

If you’re planning a trip to South Tyrol, add Nals Margreid to your itinerary. You will not be disappointed. With a rental car, you can easily reach the winery, which is located on the northern end of the South Tyrolean Wine Road. If you are blessed to have Harald as your guide, tell him greetings from Throne & Vine!

You can learn more about Nals Margreid’s wines and available tours by visiting their website.

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Divinely Alpine – Exploring the Wines of Elena Walch

By Kate & Vin 67 Comments

When one of Italy’s most celebrated winemaking regions boasts 3,000 years of viniculture, it’s hard to imagine there’s much room for improvement. Unless you’re Elena Walch.

In the 1980s, Elena married into one of the oldest winemaking families in Italy’s northernmost wine region, Alto Adige (also known as South Tyrol), a stirring Alpine wonderland alive with countless castles, storybook villages, lush valleys and the most stunning vineyards in the world. With her, she brought vision, paired with passion. And within a matter of years that potent combination saw Elena instill innovation into age-old winemaking practices — elevating Alto Adige wines into the realm of unrivaled quality.

When I first heard about Elena Walch I was instantly intrigued. How often are women celebrated for boldly challenging the status quo? Not nearly enough. Before we left on our latest South Tyrolean adventure, my husband, Vin, and I made plans to visit her estate. The trip did not disappoint.

Where Ancient Traditions Marry Modern Elegance

After finishing a late breakfast we drive about half an hour into the heart of Alto Adige’s winegrowing region — breezing past tempting photo opps and idyllic hillside towns along the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Weinstrasse). We eventually arrive at Tramin — a wine village seemingly lost in time and home to the Elena Walch estate.

We park and meander through Tramin’s winding passageways toward the winery. The village peacefully invites you into the past. And if we were here on any other day I would have likely let its seductive stillness transport me. I make mental notes on sights to revisit later.

Tramin on the wine road in South Tyrol — The church of St. Quirikus and Julitta in Tramin demands your attention from the South Tyrolean Wine Road with its striking Gothic steeple. It crowns the highest free-standing stone masonry tower in South Tyrol.

The Elena Walch estate unfolds from the cobblestone surroundings and reveals beautifully landscaped grounds bringing to mind a scene from The Secret Garden. Walking through the entrance we notice touches of modern elegance blending into the estate’s historic architecture.

Anna Marsoner, our guide for the morning, soon greets us with a wide, warm smile. We exchange introductions and begin our tour by following her to the winery’s newest addition.

Elena Walch Wine Estate Grounds — Elena Walch wines are made among some of the most beautifully manicured grounds in South Tyrol.

We walk into a room with towering glass walls graciously offering views of distant mountains. Anna invites us down steps into a state-of-the-art fermentation cellar. We are immediately struck by the happiest of all aromas — grapes becoming wine.

We encounter rows of French and Slovenian oak barriques masterfully aging wine into expressions distinct to Elena Walch.

Built in 2015, the cellar holds immense stainless steel fermentation tanks. An LED display glows from a nearby wall and Anna shows us how the winery applies climate control technology to produce vintages to exacting standards.

⇒ You Might Also Like: The Must-Visit Wineries of South Tyrol

The room is softly lit by violet lighting that delicately shimmers off each tank. Anna tells us Elena was an accomplished architect before her marriage. The exquisite ambiance of this space leaves no doubt in my mind.

Elena Walch Winery Tour — Anna walks through how Elena Walch’s state-of-the-art fermentation cellar allows the winery to consistently produce high-quality vintages.

Moving on we venture deeper into the cellar entering a vast room that looks to be carved out of a mountain. Here, more massive steel fermenting tanks stand against stone walls naturally cooling the cellar air.

Anna ducks us into a tunnel that runs to a dark cavernous area. It looks like we are walking through a passage that belongs deep within the belly of a castle. We encounter rows of French and Slovenian oak barriques masterfully aging wine into expressions distinct to Elena Walch.

Elena Walch Cellar Tunnel — Deeper into the mountain we go.

She tells us the first building on the property was a Jesuit convent for 70 years before being purchased by the Austrian founder, Wilhelm Walch, in 1869. From here, we head up steps into another cellar where massive wooden casks surround us from all sides. As much as the new fermentation cellar gave us a peek into the winery’s future, these imposing wooden monoliths wow us back in time.

The face of each cask bears the ornate craftsmanship of woodcarvers from Val Gardena, a valley in Alto Adige’s Dolomites mountain range. Every chiseled mark forges a story commemorating significant occasions in the estate’s history.

I stare at them as if I am in an art gallery. One can’t help wonder how long it took to carve out such detail…and how these immense wine barrels were transported long ago. The artisans certainly did not roll them down the mountain.

Kate looking up at massive wine barrels of Elena walch. — The massive casks of Elena Walch are true works of art in the wine world.

The oldest cask dates back to 1878. But, the one I find most interesting has a delightfully mischievous depiction. Thanks to a poor translation, the woodcarver etched horns on a likeness of Moses rather than the intended halo.

The value of preserving vineyards for future generations has become a celebrated standard in Alto Adige thanks to pioneers like Elena.

The largest cask is born of Slovenian Oak from Croatia and holds 180 hectoliters. Anna quickly puts the number into terms we can grasp telling us it would take 65 years and 7 months to empty completely!

While admiring these historic casks, Anna informs us Elena Walch produces 500,000 bottles each year primarily from two nearby vineyards, Castel Ringberg and Kastelaz. In total, her vineyards comprise 60 hectares. Hard to picture? Imagine roughly 60 baseball fields flush with vines.

Elena Walch Woodcarved Wine Casks — Moses with horns? The woodcarver may have had too much wine. He mistakenly chiseled a pair of horns on the biblical figure rather than a halo.

Continuing on we are surprised to learn hands pick every single grape that goes into an Elena Walch wine bottle. I am ready to volunteer. Anna also informs us the vineyards flourish without applying any herbicides.

Elena was among the first in Alto Adige to make sustainability a hallmark of her wines. This meant producing wine in harmony with nature and reducing quantity to place supreme importance on uncompromising quality.

Taking such a position was initially met with resistance by wine producers firmly rooted in tradition, but the value of preserving vineyards for future generations has become a celebrated standard in Alto Adige thanks to pioneers like Elena. Nearly every facet of her wine production considers the environmental impact — from practicing sustainable cultivation to solar powering the estate to using corks from forests certified by the Forest Stewardship Council.

Tasting Elena Walch Wines

As our tour comes to an end, Anna leaves us in the estate’s garden where a table with wine glasses radiates in the late morning light. We sit down and enjoy the sun pouring through the trees. In no time we are greeted by Karoline Walch, one of Elena’s two daughters actively working in the family business. Karoline and her sister, Julia, are poised to follow in their mother’s footsteps and one day lead the estate.

Karoline enthusiastically joins us at the tasting table. Her passion is immediately evident as she takes us on a journey through an array of her family’s award-winning wines. We begin with the single vineyard Pinot Bianco “Kristallberg”, the grapes of which are grown at a height of 600 meters (nearly 2,000 feet).

The vineyard’s dramatic temperature swings between night and day give the Pinot Bianco “Kristallberg” a bright crispness, mineral tones and a bouquet flush with green apple and white peach. After a couple of sips, I find myself indulging more than tasting. The wine sings with summer elegance and I make a mental note to serve this splendor at my sister’s baby shower in August.

One sip of Elena Walch’s Gewurtztraminer and it’s clear this is a wine that demands to be noticed.

After we finish sampling the Pinot Bianco we move on to the only Vigna-certified Pinot Grigio in Italy. Karoline shares that after five years a vineyard may apply for Vigna certification, which certifies the wine is born from a single, geographically-defined vineyard. Producing a wine in this manner ensures the heart and soul of the land are personified in each bottle — a guiding philosophy of the Elena Walch estate.

Pinot Grigio is my personal vice, so I am especially excited to try Elena Walch’s Pinot Grigio “Vigna Castel Ringberg”. Its rich fullness and fruity aroma immediately impress as I sip. Now, I have two Elena Walch wines I must serve at my sister’s shower.

Naturally, I want more, but we continue with the Sauvignon “Vigna Castel Ringberg”. This wine equally pleases — perfectly balancing its Alpine heart with its French roots. My wine list for the shower grows by one more.

Karoline Walch & Kate — Karoline Walch joined us to conduct a grand tasting of the family’s award-winning wines.

Next, we try Elena Walch’s Gewurztraminer “Vigna Kastelaz”, the most popular and award-winning wine in her portfolio. Translated, Gewurztraminer means “Spices of Tramin”, which is quite fitting as this northern Italian treasure pairs best with spicy Asian cuisine, seafood, cheeses and dessert. One sip of Elena Walch’s Gewurtztraminer and it’s clear this is a wine that demands to be noticed. It is immensely lush and intensely complex. A delight for both the nose and mouth. Vin says this is his personal favorite.

What makes Elena Walch’s Gewurztraminer especially unique is where the grapes are grown. All vineyards in Alto Adige face to the East or West, but Elena Walch’s Kastelaz vineyard is an exception. It is the only south-facing vineyard in Alto Adige. Here, the vines thrive on a steep 63-degree slope and enjoy cool Mediterranean winds from Italy’s Lake Garda.

While Alto Adige is best known for world-class white wines, the red wines from Elena Walch should be on your radar. The last two wines we sample are the Pinot Nero “Ludwig” and the Lagrein Riserva “Castel Ringberg”.

Recently named the second best Pinot Noir in all of Italy, the Elena Walch Pinot Nero “Ludwig” is enticingly ruby red in color and delicately juicy. The finish is smooth with a slight tanginess. Definitely a wine I want to explore further.

Like the Pinot Grigio we tasted, the grapes for Elena Walch’s Lagrein Riserva come from the winery’s Castel Ringberg vineyard. Set on a hill off of the South Tyrolean Wine Road, the Castel Ringberg vineyard overlooks the sky blue waters of Lake Caldaro. A castle built in 1620 rises from the surrounding vines.

We admit to Karoline the Lagrein grape is a bit of a mystery. She informs us it is a sun-loving grape native to Alto Adige and is a cross between Syrah and Pinot Noir.

Enjoying Elena Walch's Lagrein — Elena Walch’s Lagrein Riserva made us raving fans of this lesser known red.

In our wine glasses, the Lagrein Riserva showcases a deep red color. Its nose recalls an Alpine berry jam we enjoyed at breakfast earlier. The wine itself is robust with touches of spice and fruit and has a pleasantly long finish.

Karoline points out that it pairs well with venison and other meats. Vin comments he can’t wait to try it with the wild game in our freezer back home. That is a nice thought for him, but I am busy thinking about how we can stay longer at this heavenly place.

We conclude our tasting with Karoline, but before leaving the garden we enjoy more Lagrein and a savory plate of local specialty cheeses and cold cuts from La Verre Capricieux — a stylish bistro on the property.

Get to Know Elena Walch Wines First Hand

Our time at the Elena Walch estate was a truly inspiring way to spend a morning in Alto Adige. Elena Walch’s impeccable wines are not to miss. And touring the estate is a must when visiting this part of Italy. Like us, you’ll come away with a deep appreciation for the eloquent vision and devotion to quality Elena Walch, her daughters and the estate’s staff bring to every bottle they produce.

When traveling the South Tyrolean Wine Road, you can also visit the Castel Ringberg estate of Elena Walch, which offers stunning views of Lake Caldaro you won’t forget.

You can learn more about these amazing Alto Adige wines and available tours by visiting the Elena Walch website. Be sure to ask for Elena Walch the next time you are at your local wine shop.

And if you don’t know South Tyrol, Italy, do your wanderlust heart a favor and discover why it needs to be at the top of your travel wish list.

South Tyrol’s Lake Caldaro beams from just beyond the rolling vineyards of Elena Walch.

Italian Food, Wine & Travel

Check out the below articles to explore other exquisite wines from the Alpine regions of Italy.

Jill from L’Occasion shares Climb to the Top: Alpine Wines of Italy
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Lauren from The Swirling Dervish shares Hearts on Fire: A Summer Tradition in Alto Adige
Lynn from Savor the Harvest shares The One High Altitude Wine Region You Must Try #ItalianFWT
Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares Beef & Barolo, Two Piedmontese Darlins
Jen from Vino Travels shares Vineyards of the Dolomites with 2013 Castel San Michele All’Adige
Martin at ENOFYLZ Wine Blog shares A Taste of Lugana; 2013 Tenuta Roveglia “Vigne Di Castullo” Lugana Riserva #ItalianFWT
Gwen from Wine Predator shares Off to the Alps for #ItalianFWT
Jeff from FoodWineClick! shares Unique Mountain Wines of Alto Adige