Alto Adige Wines

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter

Updated: February 18, 2023

The courtly estate of J. Hofstätter rises like a shining beacon from the craggy cobblestones of Italy’s most charming wine village. Discover why this pioneering winery of Tramin belongs on your wish list when visiting South Tyrol and your local wine shop.

The wine of Tramin has been beloved for centuries. Books of long ago call out the potent qualities of “Traminer” wine. It was said to possess healing powers and spark passions among lovers.

Such veneration was likely referring to a white beauty we now call Gewürztraminer. This highly aromatic, spicy-sweet grape varietal was born in Tramin more than a thousand years ago. The name actually means “the spicy one from Tramin”.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps. In fact, they were of such high esteem that in the early 15th century legendary minnesinger Oswald von Wolkenstein penned a lovesick song about Tramin wines. His lips longed for the flavor while subjected to sipping lesser vintages during his troubadouring travels.

Today, you can find Tramin’s wines sold throughout the world, but there is no better way to discover their mountain-born magic than visiting its wineries. One revered winery not to miss while in South Tyrol is J. Hofstätter. After embarking on a tasting, you too will be singing praises of the wine just like Sir Oswald.

Out of the Cellar

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The roots of the J. Hofstätter began in the early 1900s within a humble cellar of a small inn operated by Josef and Maria Hofstätter in Tramin. Josef’s winemaking aspirations soon outgrew the cellar and in 1907 he founded the J. Hofstätter Estate Winery.

Josef’s pioneering spirit continued to flourish at the winery when Konrad Oberhofer and Luise Oberhof (the niece of Josef and Maria) took over after his death in 1942. Konrad and Luise elevated the winery’s quality production and began bottling the wine rather than selling it in bulk.

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter 3 — A family of vintners. Josef Hofstätter and team capture a moment in time on a vine-drenched hill in Tramin.

In 1959, Sieglinde Oberhofer (the only daughter of Konrad and Luise) married, Paolo Foradori, the son of a winemaking family from Trentino. Paolo was immensely influential in shaping the future of the winery and winemaking throughout South Tyrol. Referred to as the “father of Alto Adige Pinot Noir,” he brought many South Tyrolean wine farms under the Hofstätter umbrella and introduced the “Vigna” classification which designates single-vineyard wines.

Now in its fourth generation, the winery has become one of the largest family-owned wine estates in South Tyrol. Paolo Foradori handed the operations over to Martin Foradori Hofstätter in 1992. He has taken J. Hofstätter to new heights and currently oversees 124 acres. Twenty-five of this acreage abounds around Tramin with additional vines grown on the slopes across the valley.

Where Mountains & Wine Meet

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter 4 — J. Hofstätter winemaker, Markus Heinel, is a talented oenologist who wears his passion for the craft on his face. His love for the vines shines through in the glass

Walking through the heart of Tramin the J. Hofstätter Estate is impossible to miss. Its colorful tower rises below a vast expanse of vineyards that ripple to the summit of Kastelaz hill. Stretch your eyes further up still and you will enjoy the sight of a spruce-speckled Mt. Roen, which watches over all at a height of nearly 7,000 ft.

According to the winemaker, Markus Heinel, these vineyards sit at elevations varying between 820 and 2790 ft. This allows the J. Hofstätter estate to optimally harness a host of microclimates and soil conditions in its production.

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter 5 — Spaceship capsules? No fermentation tanks. J. Hofstätter helped pioneer a more sustainable winemaking approach in Alto Adige by being the first to use concrete tanks.

Such diversity paired with innovation and a rare, unwavering vision to meet exacting standards has led to wines of international acclaim year after year. When it comes to producing exquisite wines, Markus made it clear that patience is more than a valued virtue at J. Hofstätter, it is mandatory.

Before touring the inner workings of the winery, Markus shared that it remarkably consists of six levels including a wine shop, wine bar, restaurant, and a cellar that is a must-see. An elevator brought us to the tank room where we encountered peculiar cocoon-shaped casks. Made of nearly eight-inch thick concrete, these innovative fermentation tanks were the first of their kind in South Tyrol according to Markus.

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter 6 — The majority of J. Hofstätter’s barrels are Fench and Austrian oak made from trees that are 60-80 years old. The odd-looking barrel provides the winery with a view of the virtues of biodynamic winemaking.

Besides just being plain fun to look at, they facilitate gentle fermentation and support J. Hofstätter’s environmentally-friendly winemaking process by preserving temperatures. The concrete tanks are more energy-efficient and naturally cool the wine as well as facilitate better settling, which is the process of removing the solids from the pressed grapes.

The result is smoother wine that also requires less time to age in oak barrels. Markus hand picks the oak barrels that fill J. Hofstätter’s cellar. We walked past row after row of these maturing treasure chests before stopping at one that had a window. Markus shared that this odd barrel is another example of the winery’s drive to continuously discover new ways to produce even more exquisite wines. The glass pane allows him to study biodynamic winemaking, which theorizes that phases of the moon impact wine quality.

An Inspired Wine Portfolio

After visiting the cellar Markus led us to the elevator again where we ascended into heaven. Well not actually, but the tasting room was set up beautifully to let us sip a bit of paradise.

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The J. Hofstätter wine portfolio comprises 15 whites and 12 reds with a primary focus on five of the traditional local varieties: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Lagrein, and Vernatsch. The wines fall into one of three lines: Classic, Selection and Single-vineyard.

The Classic wines exhibit the typical varietal character of Alto Adige wines. Selection wines, on the other hand, are produced from carefully selected grapes and include a red blend and a white blend.

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter 8 — The story of “Vigna” is written on the walls of J. Hofstätter.

J. Hofstätter’s Single-vineyard wines are the pinnacle of the portfolio. They embody the winery’s most treasured vineyards and are born from grapes sourced from a single historic plot.

Markus noted these wines include the word “Vigna” on the label which certifies the wine originates from grapes ripened in single demarcated vineyards. As we noted above, J. Hofstätter’s Paolo Foradori pioneered this classification setting a quality standard for premium Alto Adige wines.

Single-vineyard wines stand apart in the wine world as they represent the ultimate expression of their terroir — the defining characteristics captured from a grape varietal’s natural environment. J. Hofstätter is passionate about a wine’s origin and continues to inspire the pursuit of the Vigna classification throughout South Tyrol.

Tasting J. Hofstätter Wines

Our tasting with Markus included sampling five of J. Hofstätter’s most renowned wines.

We began with Pinot Blanc (also known as Pinot Bianco and Weissburgunder) — a star white of Alto Adige. Markus informed us that Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Noir. It is a true cool-climate grape thriving at elevations up to 2,600 ft.

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J. Hofstatter’s Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinot Blanc originates from the winery’s Barthenau estate at an elevation of almost 1,500 ft. It was delightfully crisp and rich with delicious notes of apple, pear and almond. An elegant stunner that would do wonders on a hot summer day.

The Pinot Blanc was followed up with the estate’s Joseph Gewürztraminer from their Selection series. Markus shared that this is their textbook Gewürztraminer — showcasing all the classic attributes of the wine: full-bodied with a bright straw yellow color, a powerful aromatic character of rose petals and ginger with a vibrant and long finish.

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Next, Markus poured the estate’s Single-vineyard Gewürztraminer: Kolbenhof. This deep golden beauty is made from select grapes grown in the family’s steep Kolbenhof vineyard, which is in the hamlet of Söll overlooking Tramin. It possesses an enthralling fruit intensity and aromas that win your heart before even tipping the glass to your nose. In the mouth, it was uniquely lush with a long elegant finish.

We followed up the Gewürztraminer tasting with the winery’s selection of Pinot Nero (more commonly known as Pinot Noir). The first Pinot sampled was the Riserva Mazon. It hails from the other side of the Adige Valley on a slope known as Mazon. Grown here, the grapes benefit from a beaming evening sun and the cooling effects of the “Ora” winds bestowed from Lake Garda to the south.

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter 11 — Our favorite of the tasting, the Barthenau Vigna San Urbano put Italy on the map for great Pinot Noirs.

The Mazon Riserva is a full-bodied, deep red elegant Pinot Nero. The wine’s extensive aging in oak barrels imparts a wild fruity aroma with a velvety smooth feel that almost massages the mouth.

Elevated in South Tyrol: The Soaring Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter 12 — J. Hofstätter honors Ludwig Barth von Barthenau with a bust in the winery.

Our last wine with Markus was another Pinot Nero from the Mazon estate. This one stole the show. The Barthenau Vigna San Urbano is a dark ruby gem whose fruit-driven style with hints of vanilla and chocolate has made the Mazon estate the most celebrated vineyard for Pinot Nero in Italy.

The name of the wine pays homage to Ludwig Barth von Barthenau, a professor who introduced the Pinot Nero variety to Alto Adige in the late 19th century. J. Hofstätter has masterfully continued this gentleman’s vision by producing a Pinot Nero that ranks among the best in the world. It truly personifies the attributes that make wine from Alto Adige so special.

Visiting the J. Hofstätter Wine Estate

Besides being a destination to enjoy delicious wines, J. Hofstätter is unique in Tramin in that guests can also discover the age-old art of viticulture. The estate’s Show Vine Garden flourishes with Gewürztraminer vines where you can witness how vintners tend to the vineyard from morning until dark.

Hofstatter Winery Tour — J. Hofstätter offers guided excursions through three of its picturesque vineyards. (photo credit: J. Hoffstatter)

In addition, the winery offers vineyard and cellar tours if booked in advance. Both include expert-led tastings that give you an intimate understanding of the special characteristics of J. Hofstätter’s wines.

The wine shop, bar and restaurant open and close at various times. But no matter when you visit Tramin, you should have no problem finding time to make the J. Hofstätter Wine Estate a part of your experience.

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Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch

Updated: February 17, 2023

The regal estate of Elena Walch beautifies life with a portfolio of exquisite wines and a pair of wineries that dazzle from floor to ceiling.

When one of Italy’s most celebrated winemaking regions boasts 3,000 years of viniculture, it’s hard to imagine there’s much room for improvement. Unless you’re Elena Walch.

In the 1980s, Elena married into one of the oldest winemaking families in Italy’s northernmost wine region, Alto Adige (also known as South Tyrol), a stirring Alpine wonderland alive with countless castles, storybook villages, lush valleys and the most stunning vineyards in the world. With her, she brought vision, paired with passion. And within a matter of years that potent combination saw Elena instill innovation into age-old winemaking practices — elevating Alto Adige wines into the realm of unrivaled quality.

When I first heard about Elena Walch I was instantly intrigued. How often are women celebrated for boldly challenging the status quo? Not nearly enough. Before we left on our latest South Tyrolean adventure, my husband, Vin, and I made plans to visit her estate. The trip did not disappoint.

A Village Lost in Vine

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 16 — The Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta in Tramin towers just steps away from the Elena Walch Winery.

After finishing a late breakfast we drive about half an hour into the heart of Alto Adige’s winegrowing region — breezing past tempting photo opps and idyllic hillside towns along the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Weinstrasse). We eventually spot Tramin — a wine village seemingly lost in time and home to the Elena Walch estate.

We drive up the mountainside astounded by the lushness of the vineyards bounding toward the peaks. The road to Tramin appears to be paved with viticulture. We find parking on the edge of the village and meander through Tramin’s winding alleys toward the winery.

Tramin peacefully invites you into the past. Gothic German and Italian Renaissance influences dance effortlessly together from one cobblestone to the other. If we were here on any other day I would have let its seductive stillness transport me to the Middle Ages. I make mental notes on sights to revisit later.

The Art of Elegant Vinification

We eventually reach the Elena Walch Winery which to our amazement seems to sit in its own forest. Walking through the entrance we encounter fairy-tale-like grounds bringing to my mind scenes from The Secret Garden. We are also immediately struck by the touches of chic design gracefully interlaced with the estate’s historic charm.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 17 — The heavenly views from the vineyards continue at Elena Walch’s new grape processing facility.

Anna Marsoner, our guide for the morning, soon greets us with a wide, warm smile. We exchange introductions and begin our tour by following her to the winery’s newest addition.

We walk into a room with towering glass walls graciously offering views of distant mountains. Here, we peer into a massive stainless steel hopper connected to an automated grape press and de-stemmer machine.

Anna explains how the winery uses gravity to feed the pressed grapes to the fermentation tanks. She then invites us to follow her down a set of steps to get a better picture of what she means. Before we reach the bottom step we are hit with the happiest of all aromas — grapes becoming wine. Next, we are overcome by the spellbinding sight of Elena Walch’s state-of-the-art fermentation cellar.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 18 — Anna walks through how Elena Walch’s ultra-modern fermentation cellar allows the winery to consistently produce high-quality vintages.

The light shimmers off each stainless steel tank showering us in rosy hues. I half expect Prince to strut out from behind a tank and break into Purple Rain. Anna informs us Elena was an accomplished architect before her marriage. The divine aesthetics of this space leaves no doubt in my mind.

We walk over to an LED display glowing from a nearby wall. Anna’s hand dances over the screen showing us how the winery applies climate control technology to produce vintages to exacting standards.

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Moving on from the new fermentation cellar we venture deeper into the mountain entering a vast room that looks to be a thousand years old. Here, more massive steel fermenting tanks stand against stone walls naturally cooling the cellar air. Staring at these vino-vinifying giants, we begin to get a sense of the vast amount of wine Elena Walch produces at the estate.

From Steel to Cask

Anna ducks us into a tunnel that runs to a dark cavernous area. It looks like we are walking through a passage that belongs deep within the belly of a castle. We encounter rows of French and Slovenian oak barriques masterfully aging wine into expressions distinct to Elena Walch.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 20 — Deeper into the mountain we go…

She tells us the first building on the property was a Jesuit convent for 70 years before being purchased by the Austrian founder, Wilhelm Walch, in 1869. From here, we head up steps into another cellar where massive wooden casks surround us from all sides. As much as the new fermentation cellar gave us a peek into the winery’s future, these imposing wooden monoliths whirl us back in time.

The face of each cask bears the ornate craftsmanship of woodcarvers from Val Gardena, a valley in Alto Adige’s Dolomites mountain range. Every chiseled mark forges a story commemorating significant occasions in the estate’s history.

I stare at them as if I am in an art gallery. One can’t help but wonder how long it took to carve out such detail…and how these immense wine barrels were transported long ago. The artisans certainly did not roll them down the mountain.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 21 — The massive casks of Elena Walch are true works of art in the wine world.

The oldest cask dates back to 1878. But, the one I find most interesting has a delightfully mischievous depiction. Thanks to a poor translation, the woodcarver etched horns on a likeness of Moses rather than the intended halo.

The largest cask is born of Slovenian Oak from Croatia and holds 180 hectoliters. Anna quickly puts the number into terms we can grasp telling us it would take 65 years and 7 months to empty completely!

While admiring these historic casks, Anna informs us Elena Walch produces 500,000 bottles each year primarily from two nearby vineyards, Castel Ringberg and Kastelaz. In total, her vineyards comprise 60 hectares. Hard to picture? Imagine roughly 60 baseball fields flush with vines.

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Continuing on we are surprised to learn hands pick every single grape that goes into an Elena Walch wine bottle. I am ready to volunteer. Anna also informs us the vineyards flourish without applying any herbicides.

Elena was among the first in Alto Adige to make sustainability a hallmark of her wines. This meant producing wine in harmony with nature and reducing the quantity to place supreme importance on uncompromising quality.

Taking such a position was initially met with resistance by wine producers firmly rooted in tradition, but the value of preserving vineyards for future generations has become a celebrated standard in Alto Adige thanks to pioneers like Elena. Nearly every facet of her wine production considers the environmental impact — from practicing sustainable cultivation to solar powering the estate to using corks from forests certified by the Forest Stewardship Council.

⇒ You Might Also Like: The Must-Visit Wineries of South Tyrol

Tasting Elena Walch Wines

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As our tour comes to an end, Anna leaves us in the estate’s garden where a table with wine glasses radiates in the late morning light. We sit down and enjoy the sun pouring through the trees. In no time we are greeted by Karoline Walch, one of Elena’s two daughters actively working in the family business. Karoline and her sister, Julia, are poised to follow in their mother’s footsteps and one day lead the estate.

Karoline enthusiastically joins us at the tasting table. Her passion is immediately evident as she takes us on a journey through an array of her family’s award-winning wines. We begin with the single-vineyard Pinot Bianco “Kristallberg”, the grapes of which are grown at a height of 600 meters (nearly 2,000 feet).

The vineyard’s dramatic temperature swings between night and day give the Pinot Bianco “Kristallberg” a bright crispness, mineral tones and a bouquet flush with green apple and white peach. After a couple of sips, I find myself indulging more than tasting. The wine sings with summer elegance and I make a mental note to serve this splendor at my sister’s baby shower in August.

After we finish sampling the Pinot Bianco we move on to the only Vigna-certified Pinot Grigio in Italy. Karoline shares that after five years a vineyard may apply for Vigna certification, which certifies the wine is born from a single, geographically-defined vineyard. Producing wine in this manner ensures the heart and soul of the land are personified in each bottle — a guiding philosophy of the Elena Walch estate.

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Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 27 — Karoline Walch joined us to conduct a grand tasting of the family’s award-winning wines.

Pinot Grigio is my personal vice, so I am especially excited to try Elena Walch’s Pinot Grigio “Vigna Castel Ringberg”. Its rich fullness and fruity aroma immediately impress as I sip. Now, I have two Elena Walch wines I must serve at my sister’s shower.

Naturally, I want more, but we continue with the Sauvignon “Vigna Castel Ringberg”. This wine equally pleases — perfectly balancing its Alpine heart with its French roots. My wine list for the shower grows by one more.

Next, we try Elena Walch’s Gewürztraminer “Vigna Kastelaz”, the most popular and award-winning wine in her portfolio. Translated, Gewürztraminer means “Spices of Tramin”, which is quite fitting as this northern Italian treasure pairs best with spicy Asian cuisine, seafood, cheeses and dessert.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 28 — Elena Walch’s award-winning Gewürztraminer is cultivated from the Kastelaz vineyard — the only south-facing vineyard in Alto Adige. (photo credit: Elena Walch)

One sip of Elena Walch’s Gewürztraminer and it’s clear this is a wine that demands to be noticed. It is immensely lush and intensely complex. A delight for both the nose and mouth. Vin says this is his personal favorite.

What makes Elena Walch’s Gewürztraminer especially unique is where the grapes are grown. All vineyards in Alto Adige face to the East or West, but Elena Walch’s Kastelaz vineyard is an exception. It is the only south-facing vineyard in Alto Adige. Here, the vines thrive on a steep 63-degree slope and enjoy cool Mediterranean winds from Italy’s Lake Garda.

While Alto Adige is best known for world-class white wines, the red wines from Elena Walch should be on your radar. The last two wines we sample are the Pinot Nero “Ludwig” and the Lagrein Riserva “Castel Ringberg”.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 29 — Elena Walch’s Lagrein Riserva made us raving fans of this lesser-known red.

Recently named the second-best Pinot Noir in all of Italy, the Elena Walch Pinot Nero “Ludwig” is enticingly ruby red in color and delicately juicy. The finish is smooth with a slight tanginess. Definitely a wine I want to explore further.

Like the Pinot Grigio we tasted, the grapes for Elena Walch’s Lagrein Riserva come from the winery’s Castel Ringberg vineyard. Set on a hill off of the South Tyrolean Wine Road, the Castel Ringberg vineyard overlooks the hypnotic blue of Lake Caldaro. A castle built in 1620 rises from the surrounding vines.

We admit to Karoline the Lagrein grape is a bit of a mystery. She informs us it is a sun-loving grape native to Alto Adige and is a cross between Syrah and Pinot Noir.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 30 — South Tyrol’s Lake Caldaro beams from just beyond Elena Walch’s Castel Ringberg vineyard.

In our wine glasses, the Lagrein Riserva showcases a deep red color. Its nose recalls an Alpine berry jam we enjoyed at breakfast earlier. The wine itself is robust with touches of spice and fruit and has a pleasantly long finish.

Karoline points out that it pairs well with venison and other meats. Vin comments he can’t wait to try it with the wild game in our freezer back home. That is a nice thought for him, but I am busy thinking about how we can stay longer at this heavenly place.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 31 — When you visit Elena Walch in Tramin, plan to also enjoy the winery’s chic bistro: *La Verre Capricieux*

We conclude our tasting with Karoline, but before leaving the garden we enjoy more Lagrein and a savory plate of local specialty cheeses and cold cuts from La Verre Capricieux — a stylish bistro on the property.

Get to Know Elena Walch Wines First Hand

Our time at the Elena Walch estate was a truly inspiring way to spend part of a day in South Tyrol. Elena Walch’s impeccable wines are a delight not to miss. And touring her estate in Tramin is a must when visiting the region. Like us, you’ll come away with a deep appreciation for the eloquent vision and devotion to quality Elena Walch, her daughters and the estate’s staff bring to every bottle they produce.

Tip: When traveling the South Tyrolean Wine Road, you can also visit the Castel Ringberg estate of Elena Walch, which we mentioned above. It is located right off the road just a few minutes from Tramin. While there, you can walk among the rolling vineyards and sip wine amid stellar views of Lake Caldaro.

Divinely Alpine: Exploring the Elegant Wines of Elena Walch 32 — Include a visit to Elena Walch’s historic Castel Ringberg estate as part of your South Tyrol Wine Road itinerary.

You can learn more about these amazing Alto Adige wines and available tours by visiting the Elena Walch website. Be sure to ask for Elena Walch the next time you are at your local wine shop.

If you are interested in discovering other exquisite wines from the Alpine regions of Italy, check out the below articles from fellow bloggers:

Jill from L’Occasion shares Climb to the Top: Alpine Wines of Italy
Susannah from Avvinare shares White Wines from Aosta Hit High Notes
Lauren from The Swirling Dervish shares Hearts on Fire: A Summer Tradition in Alto Adige
Lynn from Savor the Harvest shares The One High Altitude Wine Region You Must Try #ItalianFWT
Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares Beef & Barolo, Two Piedmontese Darlins
Jen from Vino Travels shares Vineyards of the Dolomites with 2013 Castel San Michele All’Adige
Martin at ENOFYLZ Wine Blog shares A Taste of Lugana; 2013 Tenuta Roveglia “Vigne Di Castullo” Lugana Riserva #ItalianFWT
Gwen from Wine Predator shares Off to the Alps for #ItalianFWT
Jeff from FoodWineClick! shares Unique Mountain Wines of Alto Adige

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Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World’s Oldest Vine

Updated: February 18, 2023

It’s not every day you meet a royal lady several hundred years old. But one such endearing elder thrives far below a castle in the village of Prissiano in South Tyrol (Alto Adige).

DEEP IN THE FOOTHILLS bounding between Merano and Bolzano lies one of the world’s greatest living treasures: the Versoaln vine of Castel Katzenzungen. This rare natural gem is likely the oldest and largest grapevine in the world.

Affectionately known as the “Old Lady” by the caretaker and owner of the castle, Veronika Egger Pobitzer, the vine according to viticulturists is 350+ years old. The only known grapevine in the world of similar age is found in nearby Slovenia.

However, legend speaks of the Versoaln grapevine being even much older. It is said the Count of Schlandersperg planted the vine beneath his castle in 1379 — making her more than 600 years old. Whatever is the truth, the Old Lady is a wonder to behold when visiting South Tyrol.

Meeting the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen

The Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen enthrones herself almost 200 feet below the earth where her roots enjoy the spoils of the soil all to themselves. She eventually surfaces along an old stone wall at the foot of the castle’s hill.

From there, the Old Lady’s gnarled trunk curls into a wide smile as two main branches fan out a river of foliage. We found her wrinkled grin far more enchanting than any ever unfurled by the stroke of an artist’s brush.

But as pretty as her smile is, it’s the Old Lady’s verdant veil that steals your breath. Her leafy canopy shrouds the hillside — covering nearly 3,800 sq. ft. Atop the castle’s stone arch bridge, it appears as a velvety cloak kissed with green and gold. When the sun lances her leaves she almost shimmers in the light.

Looking down on her one can’t help but be in awe of her tenacious spirit. The Old Lady has braved centuries of war, famine and fire to still dazzle the eyes today.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 35 — The Versoaln vine displays a grand canopy below Castel Katzenzungen.

She rests her branches on a sprawling chestnut pergola several feet above the ground. When we first set foot under her canopy it was like walking into a hidden world.

The Old Lady enveloped us in a labyrinth of lushness. Her leaf-riddled arms seemed to pull us down the hill. Clearly, she is a curious soul. Wanting to meet all who enter her realm face to face.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct. Its name pre-dates Ancient Rome and likely refers to how the canopy of vines was secured to trellises by rope. Fortunately, viticulturists from South Tyrol have been able to birth new vines from the Old Lady ensuring the variety’s future.

Vesoaln produces compact clusters of translucent medium-sized grapes. The Old Lady is still quite fruitful yielding enough grapes each year to produce 300-500 bottles of wine.

Veronika noted the castle estate does not actually produce the wine or care for the vine. The grapes are vinified at the Laimburg Research Center — a South Tyrolean agriculture institute located near the wine village of Tramin.

Versoaln vine — A beauty for the ages from above and below, the Old Lady still produces up to 900 lbs of grapes each year.

Tending to the health of the Old Lady is handled by the botanical experts of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff in Merano. In addition to protecting the vine, the Gardens’ promote her as a culturally significant part of South Tyrol’s 3,000-year-old winegrowing heritage.

Despite their efforts to safeguard the vine, how long the Old Lady will be with us is not known. Unfortunately, she has been afflicted with a slow-moving wood disease called Esca, which deprives her of water. To combat this menace, portions of the vine must be removed where Esca appears each year.

Touring Castel Katzenzungen

After giving our best wishes to the Old Lady and bidding her farewell, Veronika led us across the stone arch bridge for a tour of Castel Katzenzungen. This box-shaped castle is unlike any other we have encountered in South Tyrol.

First mentioned in 1244, the castle has been held by several noble families in South Tyrol over the centuries. While its name amusingly translates to “cat’s tongue”, the name actually arises from the original owner: Henricus de Cazenzunge.

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From Sir Cazenzunge, the castle passed to the Lords of Fink and the Lords of Schlandersberg, as well as the Counts of Thun and Fuchs. In 1548, Castel Katzenzungen came into the hands of Lords of Breisach, who transformed it into its current Renaissance style.

Inside, Veronika pointed out architectural clues on the original stone staircase hinting a tower may have graced the castle at one point in time. She shared that for nearly 200 years Castel Katzenzungen was among the most prestigious residences in South Tyrol thanks to the wealth of the Breisach family. When their rule ended, the castle fell into decay.

It remained largely in ruin until 1978 when Veronika’s father-in-law, Josef Pobitzer, purchased the castle. Josef then passed the castle to his son, Ernst, who beautifully restored Castel Katzenzungen to its original character and former glory.

Today, the Pobitzer family operates the castle as a one-of-a-kind wedding and corporate event venue. Between its three floors, Castel Katzenzungen can host anywhere from a small group of 10 up to 450 guests.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 37 — Medieval weaponry adorns the great halls of the castle.

Veronika led us through each floor highlighting fascinating historic details of the castle. The ground floor now holds lavish banquet rooms and a wine bar, but during medieval times it was actually the castle’s stable. Why? Residents of the castle kept livestock at the lowest level so the animals’ body heat would assist in warming the upper floors.

The first floor holds a large hall for live music and dancing. The hall’s stone floor is only around 20 years old, but masterfully resembles the original including its dark red color, which long ago was dyed red with animal blood.

Castel Katzenzungen Stube — Wood paneling from the 16th century lines the walls and ceilings of the castle’s lounge rooms.

Additional rooms on the first floor include elegant stubes wrapped in warm wood panels from the 16th century. This rustic feature was almost lost to history. Poor farmers staying in the castle during its period of decay covered the paneling to make the rooms smaller and thus easier to heat. The gorgeous woodwork was revealed during the castle’s restoration.

Our favorite room of the castle was the medieval kitchen. Its walls run black —forever scarred by woodfires lit over the centuries to smoke speck. Dining in the kitchen under candlelight would undoubtedly transport you to another time.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 38 — Longing for enchantment? It is inescapable in the kitchen of Castel Katzenzungen.

The second floor features additional banquet rooms for larger gatherings. In the future, the Pobitzer family plans to use part of the floor to also showcase unique artwork, rocks, gemstones, minerals and a collection of historic arms from Josef Pobitzer.

Perhaps the most peculiar part of the second floor is the medieval bathrooms. Stone seats jut out from the exterior castle wall with an opening that allowed residents to relieve themselves high above the grounds. These of course were located on the sides of the castle — not above the front gate. Whether an unlucky peasant ever received these “gifts” from the heavens above we will never know.

Tasting One of the World’s Rarest Wines

We ended our visit to Castel Katzenzungen in the castle’s wine bar with a tasting of the Versoaln wine. The wine bar shares the old-world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the Old Lady.

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Veronika kindly poured us each a glass and touched on the special attributes of Versoaln. In the glass, the wine sparkled with a yellowish-green hue and possessed subtle notes of green apple and exotic fruits on the nose.

In the mouth, it was surprisingly delicious. A summertime pleaser. The Versoaln wine was light and fruity with a fun touch of tart on the finish. We had to bring a bottle of the Old Lady home with us. Her story is too remarkable not to share.

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If you want to sweeten your lips with the Old Lady yourself, the only way to do so is by visiting Castel Katzenzungen. Due to the small production volume of the wine, bottles are only sold at the wine bar.

So how much is a bottle of one of the rarest wines in the world? Surprisingly affordable. For only € 35 you can regale the tale and flavor of the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen with your family and friends.

How to Visit the Old Lady & Castel Katzenzungen

If you are a castle or wine lover, you will want to add Castel Katzenzungen and Prissiano to your South Tyrol trip plans. In fact, Prissiano is known as the “village of castles” since it is the historic home to an abundance of regal residences.

Throughout the year, Castel Katzenzungen hosts various cultural and culinary events in support of the local community. If you cannot visit during an event, a castle tour and organized tasting can be arranged for 10 or more.

An annual autumn event we have our heart set on attending someday is a torchlight hike between three castles of Prissiano which includes Castel Katzenzungen. This festive outing is a part of the Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival).

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World's Oldest Vine 41 — How about a wedding in a chapel followed by a celebration at a castle? The historic St. Martin Church sits directly across from Castel Katzenzungen.

Of course, an even better option for you to consider is hosting a smashing gala at Castel Katzenzungen. What could be more romantic than a wedding or anniversary party at a castle amid the mountains?! If you do book such a celebration, we kindly request an invite!

To explore scheduling a visit or more at Castel Katzenzungen, connect with Veronika via the castle’s official website.

The nearby town of Lana makes a convenient base for exploring the region. You can be in Prissiano in a matter of minutes by car or bus or you can wander from sight to sight along the numerous hiking trails crisscrossing the hills and valleys. See our guide to visiting and staying in Lana for more information.

We would like to give special thanks to Veronika for taking time out of her busy day to introduce us to the wonders of the Old Lady and Castel Katzenzungen!

Seduced by a Castle: Discover South Tyrol’s Romantic Castel Rametz

Updated: November 9, 2022

Enthroned atop a vine-veiled hill brandishing a soaring mountain backdrop, the historic wine estate of Castel Rametz seduces your eyes first then your lips.

If a visit to Merano is on your South Tyrol travel wish list, do your history-loving soul a favor and make time to visit Castel Rametz. This 13th-century estate embodies the beauty of the Merano region.

Located in the lavish district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz landed on our must-see list since first admiring the estate from a mountainside perch at the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle. We visited the estate a couple of times in the fall, but always arrived when the winery was closing.

So when we discovered that the castle hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit while the entire estate was open. Seeing Castel Rametz up close and turning several shades of merry before visiting Merano’s traditional Christmas market seemed like the appropriate way to get into the spirit of the season.

A History in the Vines

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While Castel Rametz has witnessed many nobles come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful ruler of the castle. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of vino soon followed.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate. These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Seduced by a Castle: Discover South Tyrol's Romantic Castel Rametz 44 — Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

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During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”. Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol.

Courting Christmas Cheer

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We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of a dog.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lay beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its walls.

Seduced by a Castle: Discover South Tyrol's Romantic Castel Rametz 47 — The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with royal holiday dazzle. The classy seasonal decor throughout made the castle look even more like it was plucked from a fairytale. After taking it all in, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the glühwein is all gone.

A stand in the courtyard offered us traditional delicacies to snack on while enjoying the crackle of a roaring woodfire. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to warm our hands up a bit before browsing the Christmas market located inside Castel Rametz.

A Must-see Medieval Wine Celler

Once inside Castel Rametz, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Saltner in South Tyrol — The museum at Castel Rametz details the evolution of winemaking in South Tyrol.

The artisans’ display tables were set up between exhibits of vintage winemaking equipment. A large color painting of a “Saltner” was intriguing to study. Saltners were once widely employed in South Tyrol to protect the vineyards. They wore wild and colorful garb meant to scare away would-be thieves, birds and other grape-thirsty critters.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The romantic ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a shawl, warming our hearts. Amid the glow of flickering candle flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar — The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is fascinating to browse.

We could have remained under the spell of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wine that eventually makes us want to uncork one. After admiring the cellar, we made our way upstairs to Castel Rametz’s enoteca.

Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We planted ourselves on two seats at the enoteca’s wine-tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to embark on a fun tasting.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz — The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to sip at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but are not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website.

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Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also dine at the castle.

Tiefenbrunner Winery: A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside

Updated: July 24, 2022

Tiefenbrunner Winery is among the oldest wineries in South Tyrol. Discover why wine and castle lovers alike will adore this historic estate reigning over the vineyards of Entiklar.

If wine is indeed “bottled poetry” as it has been said, the five generations of family running the Tiefenbrunner Winery (also known as the Schlosskellerei Turmhof Wine Estate) have composed a sweeping saga. Winemaking as a true expression of art has never been more apparent than during our visit to this celebrated wine estate.

Tucked between the ancient villages of Kurtatsch (Cortaccia) and Margreid (Magrè) in the hamlet of Entiklar (Niclara), the Tiefenbrunner Winery is among the oldest in South Tyrol. It sits upslope from the South Tyrolean Wine Road amidst a seemingly endless regiment of grapevines. They swoop down in rows from the foothills of the Fennberg mountain plateau leaving no doubt: wine is the ruler of this bountiful land.

The winery itself was officially registered in 1848. But the winemaking heritage of the area goes back thousands of years to the Rhaetia period — 500 years before the ascent of the Ancient Roman Empire in the Alps.

From Castle to Cask

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Tiefenbrunner Winery welcomes you from a forested enclave like a scene lifted from a romance novel. The ornate story unfolding over the walls of Castel Turmhof, where the winery calls home, greets you in spellbinding fashion.

Any thoughts you are here only for a wine tasting, quickly dissipate. You realize Tiefenbrunner is as much a historic destination as it is a winery. It’s impossible not to be enamored by the antiquity before you.

After our arrival, we stood in awe studying the castle’s architectural details and bemusing murals before being met by the owner, Christof Tiefenbrunner.

The regal lines of the manor made us feel almost as if we were standing before royalty. But Christof’s gracious, down-to-earth demeanor quickly put us at ease. Christof and his wife, Sabine, opened a new chapter in the winery’s long history in 2000 when they took it over from his father who presided over its remarkable growth since 1968.

Tiefenbrunner Winery: A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside 51 — Even the walls tell tales at Tieffenbrunner Winery.

Before leading us into the heart of the operation, he gave us a tour of the estate’s grounds. We discovered the castle lorded over the cultivation of grapes since at least 1225 when it was first documented in land records as the “Linticlar estate”. The Tiefenbrunner family began its legacy at the estate in 1675 eventually christening it “Castel Turmhof”.

Tiefenbrunner Winery: A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside 52 — Tiefenbrunner owner, Christof Tiefenbrunner, shares the history of the winery’s unique landscape.

As we passed by a grotto with a waterfall splashing into a shallow pool, Christof pointed to fantastical sculptures peeking from rocky coves and nooks. His great-great-grandfather, Johann Tiefenthaler, beautified the castle with ponds and enchanting works of art more than 150 years ago. The figures from biblical and ancient mythology added a touch of whimsy to the historic site.

Vines a Thousand Years Wide

Christof brought us to an open-air courtyard where the winery burrowed into the mountainside. Grape leaves gilded autumn gold swelled overhead toward the towering cliffs of Fennberg mountain.

Growing demand for Tiefenbrunner’s portfolio of wines in the 1980s meant expanding the winery’s operational footprint. But instead of building outward they built downward; beneath the vineyards. By doing so, they were able to protect the historic value of the castle and its grounds.

Tiefenbrunner Winery: A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside 53 — A crown of gold rests atop Tiefenbrunner.

Today, Tiefenbrunner cultivates roughly 25 acres of grapevines on the slopes near the winery along with nearly 40 more acres between Kurtatsch and Margreid. Together, they comprise 25 vineyards sitting at elevations from 820 feet to an astounding 3,280 feet above sea level. In fact, Tiefenbrunner’s flagship white, “Feldmarschall Von Fenner” Müller-Thurgau, begins its ascent to greatness from one of the highest vineyards in Europe.

Many of Tiefenbrunner’s vineyards cling to southerly-facing slopes where they enjoy a winemaker’s dream: dramatic temperature swings between night and day and loamy soil rich with limestone.

The effects are practically alchemic in nature. The warm winds during the day induce ripening, but the chilly mountain breezes in the evening stop it in its tracks conserving acidity. This phenomenon paired with the artful tending of grapevines by expert hands allows Tiefenbrunner to ripen grapes with uncanny precision.

Christof shared that he also sources grapes from 50 or so small growers around South Tyrol including vineyards at the foot of the Dolomites’ Schlern mountain — South Tyrol’s emblematic peak.

Tiefenbrunner Winery: A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside 54 — Tiefenbrunner excels at transmitting the terroir to the glass. The winery produces a diverse portfolio of 29 wines resulting in 700K+ bottles each year.

Whether planting new vines or cultivating old, Tiefenbrunner maintains close bonds with each grower ensuring the distinct personality of the plot comes to full fruition in the most environmentally sound manner possible. Its eco-minded commitment to winemaking is not a reflection of the latest feel-good fad, but a part of Tiefenbrunner’s heritage and principal operating philosophy. For more than 100 years, the winery has sustainably obtained all of its electricity through its own hydropower plant.

Beneath the Golden Crown

We followed Christof into the winery where he walked us through its bottling and packaging operation. From there, we entered Tiefenbrunner’s winemaking cellars. Here, he stressed the lengths Tiefenbrunner goes to imprint the terroir’s character on each grape varietal.

The winery transforms its grape juice into world-class wines through four vinification and aging practices. Vinification occurs in large stainless steel tanks, concrete vats and immense wooden casks followed by aging in French oak barriques as well as in the bottle. This allows Christof and his winemaker, Stephan Rohregger, to cull the definitive virtues of its wines with a demanding degree of accuracy and quality.

Tiefenbrunner Winery: A Reign of Wine from the Mountainside 55 — Passion is contagious…even more so when discussing delicious wine. Christof shares the artistry of personifying the terroir in the bottle.

The result is excellence in expression year after year across Tiefenbrunner’s four lines of wines: Selection Vigna, Selection Linticlarus, Selection Turmhof and Classic Merus. Each line meets the discerning tastes of markets around the world with the Selection Vigna line representing the winery’s Grand Cru.

The first-rate quality Tiefenbrunner releases have not gone unnoticed by the wine industry elite. Renowned wine critic, James Suckling, consistently includes Tiefenbrunner wines in his annual Top 100 Italian Wines list. This is no small feat considering he samples 3,000+ Italian wines each year.

We ventured further into the winery to a 400-year-old cellar that at one time in the castle’s storied history held cows. Any sign of our hooved friends was long gone as oak barrels now filled the cool air of the room. And shared a much more pleasant aroma than in ages past.

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Our tour continued up a set of stairs to another courtyard where a 280-year-old yew tree gnarled toward the sky. Christof ducked us into a gorgeous stone-pine paneled room inviting guests to enjoy an assortment of local specialties from speck to sausages to cheese to homemade bread while sipping on Tiefenbrunner’s wines.

We then descended again beneath the castle to the Wolkenstein Cellar — an 800-old cellar where meat was smoked in medieval times. Tiefenbrunner has since scrubbed away the centuries-old remnants of wood fires making the cavernous room now a place to taste wines amid the ambiance of ancient stones.

A Tale of Five Wines

After the fascinating tour deep beneath South Tyrol, Christof brought us to Tiefenbrunner’s wine shop located across from the castle. A quaint two-story building, it reminded us of an old-world storefront complete with an artist’s loft above — a natural setting to further discover the tale of its wines.

The first thing we noticed next to our tasting table was four glass cylinders filled with soil. We found them an ingenious touch to help tell the story of Tiefenbrunner. Short of trekking to each plot with a shovel in hand, they made grasping the variety of soil types easier to understand.

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For the tasting, Christof led us on a journey through all four wines comprising Tiefenbrunner’s Selection Vigna line followed by a tasting of its Lagrein Riserva from its Selection Linticlarus line.

Tiefenbrunner launched the Vigna line to showcase its single-vineyard wines, which as Christof noted: “transmits the terroir best in the glass.” They are celebrated for perfectly balancing elegance with a deep richness of fruit flavors.

Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc Riserva

If gracefulness in wine has ever been an elusive descriptor for you, pour a glass of Tiefenbrunner’s Rachtl Sauvignon Blanc. Its meaning will crystallize on your nose and in your mouth. The wine takes you by the hand leading you gently across the dance floor, but before the song is over it has you effortlessly enraptured in the tango.

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Its grapes arise from a vineyard nestled at the foot of Schlern mountain where the sandy soil possesses high salt levels and limestone rock born from the Dolomites themselves. This imparts an initial flint-like aroma that eases into fruity notes of dry hay and exotic fruit.

The wine ages for 11 months in oak and another year in the bottle before release. As a Sauvignon Blanc “raised by the Dolomites”, it makes a delicious gift for the hiker in your life. Its price begins at $59.

Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau

This white is a sterling example of what we love about the world of wine: the story a bottle tells. And while we may be biased, no bottle can spin a better tale than the wines from South Tyrol.

The Feldmarschall Von Fenner Müller-Thurgau is quite the epic. The wine is named after Franz Philipp Freiherr von Fenner, an Austrian field marshall who founded the Tyrolean Imperial Rifles, a regiment serving the Austrian emperor in the 1800s.

The grapes composing this legend grow at an elevation of nearly 3,300 feet above sea level on the Fennberg mountain plateau next to the historic summer estate of the Feldmarschall. This lofty height makes it the highest Müller-Thurgau vineyard in Europe.

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Planted almost 50 years ago by Christof’s father, the vineyard’s altitude exemplifies how winemaking is an art. It is located such that an immense jutting rock face protects the vines from northerly winds.

We found the Feldmarschall Von Fenner a stunner from swirl to finish. Pure deliciousness reminiscent of a dry Reisling, but more complex with an energetic minerality. James Suckling referred to it as possibly the “best Müller-Thurgau in the world”. And the renowned wine guide, Gambero Rosso, awarded the wine its coveted Three Glasses prize.

With all that said, the label on the bottle alone is enough to entice us to purchase this high-mountain gem. No one should pass up the chance to unwind with a heroic military officer of old Tyrol. $45.

AU Chardonnay Riserva

Sipping this delightful number furthered our conviction that the only Chardonnays worth paying attention to come from South Tyrol. Well, at least that is how we see it.

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The AU Chardonnay was pleasantly dry with a well-rounded body and ever tantalizing bouquet. Our semi-novice noses could not pin down the aromas. It was thoroughly exotic and intoxicating. In the mouth, we found it evolving with intensity eventually giving way to a nice long finish.

Christof shared that the vineyard where this Chardonnay is born sits directly behind the estate. The plot slopes under a pergola of vines that are 60 years old. He noted the wine itself can age a remarkable 20+ years in a cellar. It starts at $59.

Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva

While white wines comprise roughly 70% of Tiefenbrunner’s production, reds are not any less important to the winery. Producing Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva requires a rare perfect growing season before Tiefenbrunner will harvest the grapes.

We learned the name “Toren” is a Middle High German word meaning tower. The grapes thrive on a steep south-facing slope where the sun relentlessly basks the vines. The wine spends a year maturing in oak barriques followed by six months in stainless steel tanks. It then ages two years in the bottle. Tiefenbrunner has produced 2,500 bottles of Toren; however, only 2,000 have been brought to market.

In the glass, the wine was a thrilling dark red. One could almost get lost in its swirl forgetting to take a sip. It had an exceptional structure with hints of tobacco and blackberry. We enjoyed its velvety layers of dark-fruit flavors and were ready to carve into a steak after our tasting. With its limited production, it is naturally one of Tiefenbrunner’s more expensive wines. $69.

Linticlarus Lagrein Riserva

Our tasting with Christof fittingly concluded with a native red of South Tyrol from Tiefenbrunner’s premium line: Linticlarus. The name Linticlarus is a respectful nod to the area’s winemaking prowess going back to ancient times. It honors a former Roman fortress in Entiklar.

Before tasting, we admired its heavy ruby color and notes of black cherry, vanilla and lightly smoked oak. After a couple of sips, it sprang to life expressing lovely juiciness with smooth tannins and a slightly earthy finish.

This wine came across as very food-friendly. A Lagrein we could easily enjoy with everything from wild game to pizza.

Christof noted their Lagrein comes from one of Tiefenbrunner’s lowest elevation vineyards and ages for a year in small French oak barrels. It then spends another six months in large wooden casks before aging another year in the bottle. You can pick up this beauty for $35.

How to Visit Tiefenbrunner Winery

South Tyrol does not lack wineries showcasing striking mastery in modern architecture, but there is something especially enchanting about sipping wine in a medieval castle perched below a mountainside. Even those who have little interest in wine will find visiting Tiefenbrunner Winery an alluring destination.

The winery lies in South Tyrol’s Unterland (Lowlands) region and is the furthest one south we have visited along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Its location makes it the ideal winery to begin or end your day along the wine road. Set a gentle pace to savor the landscape. Between the steep terraces of vines, you’ll soak in speckles of meadows, forests and orchards.

In addition to visiting Tiefenbrunner, we highly recommend breezing along the charming cobblestone streets of Margreid where you can see the oldest grapevine in South Tyrol. And if you are in South Tyrol during the holiday season, consider adding Margreid’s Krampus Run to your itinerary.

Tiefenbrunner Winery offers tours with their tastings, but you must book in advance. The winery and eatery are open Monday-Saturday. Hours vary by season.

If a trip to South Tyrol is not in your immediate future, transport yourself to the Tiefenbrunner estate by picking up a bottle. Their expansive portfolio offers wines to fit any budget. We regularly enjoy the Classic Merus Chardonnay. At under $16, we find it twice as good as its price tag.

We would like to give special thanks to Christof Tiefenbrunner for the enchanting tour and tasting!

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen

Updated: June 21, 2022

Go behind the scenes with us to one of Italy’s most enthralling wineries. In this post, we introduce you to the sensational wines of Kellerei Bozen and show you how to visit this astounding architectural marvel while in South Tyrol.

Spend an afternoon in the South Tyrolean capital of Bolzano, and you just may find yourself wondering what is the secret behind the ancient town’s pervading “la dolce vita” spirit.

You might think it’s the 300 days of glorious sunshine pouring over its old-world rooftops. Or the quaint romantic sights, markets and cafes dotting nearly every corner. Or you might think it’s the surrounding natural beauty: perhaps the distant spear-tip mountain peaks inviting discovery or the lush Mediterranean flora swaying carefree in the Alpine wind.

Yes, you might think all of this and more, but you’d be wrong.

The answer we found is wine. Lots and lots of delicious wine.

An old saying shared with us more than once while breezily strolling over the cobblestones of Bolzano is, “Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine.”

This truth was never more evident to us than when we embarked on a tour of Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bolzano in Italian) — a 100+-year-old award-winning winery fantastically carved into a mountainside on the northern end of town.

From Bolzano to Kellerei Bozen

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We meandered to Kellerei Bozen from the medieval core of Bolzano. It was a pleasant 40-minute walk under the mellow rays of the early afternoon sun.

The route led us past historic buildings boldly wearing centuries of Italian and German influence, well-manicured parks peppered with sun-loving patrons and bustling arcades adorned with restaurants and shops.

Gradually, the buildings became more sparse. Rock-riddled mountains rolling into the sky joined us on our right. Soon, we were gliding by vineyards gently easing up the slopes. Ahead of us, we noticed an immense bronze-gilded cube shimmering like a beacon for Bacchus amid the vines.

As we approached the tantalizing structure, we could make out the lines of a grapevine leaf gracing its metallic veneer. It imparted a sleek, stylish flair that made the building appear like a work of art.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 63 — Kellerei Bozen’s signature design feature is a majestic vine-leafed cube that illuminates beautifully in the evening.

A long concrete retaining wall swirled down from the cube meeting us on the sidewalk where it transitioned into timeworn stacks of stone. On the wall, a sign for Kellerei Bozen announced our arrival.

The captivating design of the winery was fully revealed as we walked toward its entrance. Beyond the gleaming cube, it seemingly blended harmoniously into the earth. Most of the winery’s wizardry lay hidden beneath terraced rows of newly-planted grapevines that careened towards the mountain’s edge. If the cube was indeed a beacon for Bacchus, this was surely the ancient god of wine’s personal cellar.

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Two Became One – The Birth of Kellerei Bozen

We walked inside the cube and found Johanna Senn, Kellerei Bozen marketing manager, enthusiastically waiting for us. Naturally, after admiring the winery’s striking design for much of our walk, we began our visit inquiring about the history of the building and Kellerei Bozen.

She led us around the winery grounds while sharing its story. Kellerei Bozen we learned was born from the merger of two historic South Tyrolean wineries. In 2001, St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery came together. The merger brought 224 wine-growing families into a single cooperative — creating one of the largest in South Tyrol.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 64 — Kellerei Bozen remains one of the largest wine cooperatives in South Tyrol thanks to the merger of St. Magdalena Winery and Gries Winery.

Each winery possessed its own specialty. Established in 1930, the St. Magdalena Winery excelled at producing St. Magdalener ⁠— a red wine made from a blend of Schiava (also known as Vernatsh) and Lagrein grapes. The Gries Winery began 22 years earlier with a focus on cultivating exceptional Lagrein.

Despite the merger, the wineries continued operating at separate locations until moving to this new mountainside estate in August 2018. The new winery is the result of an Elon Musk-like vision that first began in 2006 and eventually took shape starting in 2016.

Johanna noted the signature design feature of the winery, the vine-leafed cube, artistically symbolizes Kellerei Bozen as a pioneering leader in viticulture innovation and green cultivation. However, the metallic sheathing’s purpose isn’t only decorative. She also shared that it supports the winery’s eco-friendly cooling efforts by filtering sunlight.

The Many Vines of Kellerei Bozen

Next, Johanna led us to the rooftop of the winery where we walked out to the cube’s edge. From here, we enjoyed a sprawling view of Bolzano with the Rosengarten peaks of the Dolomites looming far away on the horizon.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 65 — From the rooftop of Kellerei Bozen, marketing manager, Johanna Senn, gave us a sweeping view of the vineyards spilling into Bolzano.

Johanna brought our attention to the sea of vineyards swelling to the edges of town. It was astonishing. Now, we knew why Bolzano is said to swim in wine. Vino practically pours down the mountainsides.

From many of these vineyards, Kellerei Bozen cultivates 15 different grape varieties yielding a diverse portfolio of 37 wines with an almost even split between white and red. These grapes arise from 350 hectares (865 acres) at elevations varying between 650+ ft. (200 meters) and 3,280+ ft. (1,000 meters) above sea level. They flourish among numerous microclimates and soil types.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 66 — Yes, Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine….a view of Bolzano and the sea of vineyards on St. Magdalener hill.

Johanna pointed towards the sunny slopes rising into a mountain called Renon just beyond Bolzano. We landed our gaze on an area known as St. Magdalener hill. It is home to Kellerei Bozen’s Schiava grape. The sandy, gravel-like soil and abundance of sunshine make the steep slope perfect for producing easy-drinking Schiavas that are elegant and fruit-forward.

She then focused our eyes on the vineyards stretching near the winery in a district called Gries. This is where its Lagrein grapes grow. They thrive in the valley bottom amid porous, rich alluvial soil that basks under the steady beat of the sun.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 67 — The future of wine? Newly-planted fungus-resistant grapevines crown the “roof” of Kellerei Bozen.

Johanna noted Kellerei Bozen’s white varietals such as Müller Thurgau, Kerner, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio lie in the highest elevation vineyards of Renon and above Bolzano, as well as further south in an area called Missiano.

We asked about the newly planted vines adorning the winery and were surprised to discover they are a new grape varietal called PIWI (A German acronym pronounced “pee-vee”). These naturally fungus-resistant varietals comprise a winemaking experiment Kellerei Bozen is conducting to see if they can viably support its sustainable viticulture practices.

Producing wine with the utmost respect for the environment and future generations is a governing principle of Kellerei Bozen. Not only do its winegrowers labor rigorously to harvest the best quality grapes, but they also employ green cultivation techniques whenever possible to care for the vine, fruit and soil.

Wine From the Top Down

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 68 — Kellerei Bozen is one of the first wineries in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” certification.

This commitment to sustainability does not end at the vineyard. Johanna proudly pointed out the new winery is one of the first in Italy to receive the “KlimaHaus Wine” seal. This certifies the state-of-art winemaking operation meets strict standards aimed at minimizing resource and energy use. To give us a better sense for what this means, Johanna brought us back inside to reveal what lies beneath the mountain.

By constructing much of the 65,000+ sq. ft. estate under the earth, Kellerei Bozen can cool its production and maturation areas naturally. For hot water production, the winery burns wood pellets — an efficient renewable energy resource that is carbon neutral. Even the processing of grapes into mouth-pleasing wine is accomplished with an eye on reducing energy use at each step.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 69 — Johanna explains how Kellerei Bozen uses vertical processing to gently transform grapes into world-class wines.

The new winery descends several levels allowing gravity to move the grapes from beginning to end. This top-down or vertical production design ensures grapes gently journey through every phase in the most environmentally-friendly manner. Additionally, it enables Kellerei Bozen to elevate the quality of its wines with the ability to isolate individual plot characteristics through a number of vinification tanks and barrels.

As we followed Johanna down to the first level, she shared that the winery processes its white and red grapes differently. After making their first descent down from the dropping station at the top, white grapes are crushed, pressed and then transported vertically to towering steel fermentation tanks. Red grapes, on the other hand, after destemming and crushing pass directly to much smaller wood barrels and steel tanks.

The reason for this according to Johanna is to facilitate greater contact of the grape must with the skin. This process, known as maceration, means the red grape skins are left to soak in their own juices to soften and release the qualities that give red wine its color, body, mouth-feel and ability to age.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 70

Furthermore, Kellerei Bozen uses a “delestage” fermentation process, also referred to as “rack and return”. After the grape musts, skins and seeds settle at the top of the fermenting container, the winery pumps the wine into a reserve vat. The remaining solids are pressed again with the wine ultimately poured back over the top of the re-pressed skins and seeds. This boosts the color, flavor, tannins and aromas of the wine.

Once fermentation is complete the wines descend ever deeper into the earth. Kellerei Bozen’s maturation cellar is located in the lowest level of the winery. Here, red and white wines age into exemplary form in vast rows of French oak barriques. The large number of barrels allows Kellerei Bozen to separate the development of wines to bring about even higher quality vintages.

Within the Cube – Tasting Kellerei Bozen Wines

When we finished touring the cellars, Johanna brought us back upstairs for a tasting in the Vinarius wine shop, located in the gleaming cube at the winery’s front. It offers an enthralling setting to sip and browse Kellerei Bozen’s extensive wine portfolio.

Johanna began our tasting with two whites from Kellerei Bozen’s Selection line, which exhibits the best possible interplay between grape variety, soil texture and microclimate. We followed the whites up with our first introduction to St. Magdalener along with a tasing of the winery’s best seller from its Riserva line (can you guess which wine?).

Kellerei Bozen “Dellago” Weissburgunder (Pinot Bianco). Pinot Bianco discovered its soul in South Tyrol. It was brought to the region from Austria in 1850. The superior soil conditions and wide temperature swings between day and night helped elevate the varietal to world-class esteem. The Dellago from Kellerei Bozen certainly lives up to these lofty expectations.

It hails from the Dellago family vineyards in Missiano to the south and boasts a long list of awards. We noticed green apples on the nose and found it delicious; elegant yet with a fuller body than we anticipated. Johanna shared that part of the wine is aged in French oak imparting a slight creaminess. Because of this, we could definitely see ourselves enjoying it with pasta or chicken dishes. It is nicely priced at $13-$14.

Kellerei Bozen “Mock” Sauvignon. This Sauvignon Blanc was a pleasant surprise. It’s a full-bodied wine, but drank easy. We immediately noticed the scent of elderflower, which always brings a smile to our lips. It was fresh, fruity, and tangy with just the right amount of crispiness. It’s a complex number born of all steel. Johanna indicated the Mock Sauvignon would make an excellent choice with fish, asparagus and salads. $25-26.

Kellerei Bozen “Moar” St. Magdalener. To say we were excited to sip St. Magdalener for the first time is an understatement. For us, trying new wines in South Tyrol is worth the trip alone. All the snow-crested mountains, centuries-old castles and pristine Alpine lakes are just cherries on top of a visit.

Kellerei Bozen St. Magdalener — The St. Magdalener Moar we purchased met a quick end at our table.

Johanna was our perfect tasting coach. She reminded us St. Magdalener is a blend of 85% Schiava and 15% Lagrein. In the glass, it was similar to ruby red, but in a way exhibited its very own distinct color. Almost as if it were a precious gem only found in South Tyrol.

On the nose and in the mouth, it was fruity, light and offered a medium finish. We enjoyed raspberries with a hint of vanilla thanks to aging in oak barrels. We appreciated it as another easy-drinking red. One we would certainly sip while nibbling on speck and other cold cuts or just while relaxing in the summer. $16-$17.

Kellerei Bozen “Taber Riserva” Lagrein. Not only is this Lagrein Kellerei Bozen’s best seller, but it’s also the winery’s most award-winning wine. It has received the coveted “three glasses” designation from Gambero Rosso for the past 19 years.

The Taber Riserva owes much of its beauty, inside and out, to 80-year-old vines springing from the sun-baked soil of Gries, which practically resides right outside the winery’s front door. That’s not to take credit away from the winegrowers or the expert handling of Kellerei Bozen’s highly-regarded winemaker, Stephan Filippi. They contribute just as much to conjuring a Lagrein that is deeply red, intense yet velvety and possessing a roaring chorus of floral, cherry and chocolate notes.

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 71 — Kellerei Bozen’s “Taber Riserva” Lagrein has received “3 glasses” from Gambero Rosso each of the past 19 years.

We loved its earthy spiciness. It’s a wine we could uncork every night…if we were dining on red meat or wild game. $38-$40.

We wrapped up our time with Johanna by taking a little of Kellerei Bozen with us. We eagerly purchased a bottle of the St. Magdalener Moar. It was time we made ourselves more familiar with this delightful South Tyrolean red.

How to Visit Kellerei Bozen

Sun, Soul & Swirl: Discovering the Wines of Kellerei Bozen 72

You can reach Kellerei Bozen by venturing from old town Bolzano as we did or you can arrive by car or public transport as it is located immediately off the South Tyrolean Wine Road. Parking is available in right in front of the winery.

On future visits to Kellerei Bozen, we will not likely walk to the winery again for the sake of saving time. However, if you have not explored much of Bolzano there is no better way to do so than by foot. Consider a historic trek to the winery as your first option.

By the way, an unforgettable way to explore the wineries of South Tyrol is to stay at one of the many family-owned wine estates with villas along the wine road. Check out our recent stay at Donà Winery for inspiration.

Kellerei Bozen offers guided tours for small groups. Tour requests must be made prior to visiting. You can embark on a wine tasting every day in the wine shop except on Sundays. The shop is open from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM.

Be sure to ask for Kellerei Bozen at your local wine shop. With 3+ million bottles of wine distributed throughout the U.S. and Europe each year, there’s a good chance you can uncork a bottle or two this weekend.

We would like to give special thanks to Johanna Senn of Kellerei Bozen. We could not have asked for a better introduction to Kellerei Bozen and its exceptional wines!

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain

Updated: February 18, 2023

Along South Tyrol’s wine road awaits a winery as grand as the vine-mantled mountains soaring all around. Discover why the dazzling Cantina Tramin Winery should hold a top spot in your travel plans and your wine rack.

Some sights enthrall immediately. They captivate alone with their beauty. Or even with just a soft whisper of their history. Yet the ones that always grip the most are those that entrance you with their mystery.

Such is the Cantina Tramin Winery. Crowning a vine-drenched hilltop overlooking the tantalizing blue waters of Lake Caldaro, the winery is a South Tyrolean sight to behold all on its own. If its evocative design doesn’t stir wonder inside you, check your pulse.

So eclectic is its exterior, Cantina Tramin can’t help but demand the attention of everyone along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. It certainly demanded ours — capturing our eyes before our hearts.

An Unforgettable First Encounter

We first came across Cantina Tramin (Kellerei Tramin in German) two years ago while breezing from one wine village to the next. The striking structure of the winery amid the rolling foothills was impossible to ignore.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 74

The sight was almost hypnotic. And most definitely a magnet for curious souls like ourselves.

As we had little time between our next scheduled stop, we swung in for a quick look at what appeared to be a modern-day temple built to honor the Ancient Roman god of wine. That quick look turned into a glass of Gewürztraminer recommended to both of us.

After one glass, we surrendered our itinerary to the winery. The sprawling panoramic view unfolding before our eyes from the winery’s terrace was too spectacular to not let its wine meet our lips again and again.

We promised ourselves to make a return visit. And this past year we were fortunate to receive a grand behind-the-scenes tour and tasting as impressive as the building itself.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 75 — One glass of wine on the terrace of the Cantina Tramin Winery tends to turn into many.

Cultivating a Culture of Cooperation

Our tour began with Sigrid Pichler, brand ambassador of Cantina Tramin. Her enthusiasm for the winery was contagious. She even commented wine was in her blood as she gave us a sweeping history of Cantina Tramin. We didn’t doubt it.

The winery began in 1898 at the helm of Christian Schrott, a parish priest of the picturesque village of Tramin and member of the Austrian parliament. Schrott helped pioneer a thriving cooperative culture that today includes 300 individual winegrowers cultivating 260 hectares (picture roughly 260 baseball or rugby fields) of vineyards.

These vineyards tumble down steep slopes around the nearby villages of Tramin, Neumarkt, Montan and Auer. Some flourish at heights reaching nearly 3,000 feet.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 76 — Tramin’s vineyards beautify the mountainsides

All of the vines enjoy the benefits of strong temperature swings between day and night. The warmth emanating from Lake Garda to the south and Lake Caldaro to the north begift the grapes sweet-inducing daytime heat relieved by the settling of cool Alpine air in the evenings.

Additionally, the north-south orientation of the mountains allows warm air to flow in from the south during the day. At night, brisk winds from the Roen mountain descend almost 7,000 feet onto the valley, dramatically influencing the nighttime temperatures. This allows the grapes to rest so to speak — ultimately contributing to well structured and balanced wines with heavenly aromas.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 77 — Sigrid Pichler walks us through the 120+ year history of Cantina Tramin.

Each winegrower in the cooperative owns less than a hectare on average. Such small scale vineyards enable Cantina Tramin to produce wines of superior quality thanks to the deep-rooted knowledge the winegrowers possess of their land.

The winery works closely with the growers to optimize each plot sometimes down to even tailoring individual rows. By paying attention to the finest details, Cantina Tramin avoids losing the flavor and acidity cultivated over a season. The result? Wine that is immensely pleasant to drink harvest after harvest.

Excellence from Vine to Bottle

While a strong working relationship with the winegrowers is paramount to the winery’s success, it takes the leadership and vision of a winemaker to bring it all together. Cantina Tramin is fortunate to have one of the best in the world. Wilhelm (Willi), director of winemaking, joined the winery in 1992.

A native of the village of Tramin, he knows the pulse of the area’s vineyards through and through. Willi’s winemaking philosophy has elevated Cantina Tramin’s wines to a class of excellence few can match while also helping Alto Adige / South Tyrol shine as a star producer of high-quality wines.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 78 — Cantina Tramin’s director of winemaking, Willi Stürz, shares the story behind creating Italy’s first 100-point white wine.

His unique ability to capture the soul of the land in every bottle of Cantina Tramin wine was recognized in 2004 when the renowned Gambero Rosso, Italy’s most trusted wine guide, awarded him Italian Winemaker of the Year.

The recognition of superior quality has continued. Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate, recently awarded the winery’s Epokale Gewürztraminer 100-points — making it the first white wine in Italy to receive such a rating. To give you an idea of the significance of this accomplishment, consider that Robert Parker has tasted 35,000+ Italian wines as a wine critic over 30 years and has awarded 100 points to only 14 of them!

Ripe with Creativity & Tradition

The winery took on its current enigmatic form in 2010. Werner Tscholl, a prominent architect from South Tyrol’s Vinschgau region, designed two additional wings to the existing winery. Tscholl’s final product is a masterpiece in contrast.

Emulating the contours of vines through glass and steel, Cantina Tramin at once harmonizes with its surroundings while exhibiting its own eye-arresting beauty. The building nicely complements the winery’s winemaking approach by celebrating tradition and creativity.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 79 — The remarkable architecture of Cantina Tramin makes it a true wonder of the wine world.

This marriage between the future and the past is evident in the winery’s portfolio. Sigrid explained how Cantina Tramin splits its wines into two categories: proprietary blends and single varietal

The wines making up the proprietary blend comprise two or more varietals. These blends express Willi’s creative orchestration with respect to each vineyard.

Cantina Tramin Winery — Cantina Tramin offers an awe-inspiring contrast with the historic treasures of South Tyrol. (photo: Cantina Tramin)

The single varietal wines, on the other hand, reflect the character of the specific grape variety culminating into an ultimate expression of the region. Within both categories, Cantina Tramin offers a Classic Series and a Selections Series of wines.

The Classic Series is where you will find high-quality wines at an excellent value while the Selections Series represents the finest wines Cantina Tramin offers.

The Cellars of Cantina Tramin

When Sigrid concluded her spirited introduction to the winery she handed us off to Günther Facchinelli, Cantina Tramin’s public relations and communication manager. Günther passionately shared how the operational side of the winery contributes to producing intensely aromatic wines — a quality characteristic Cantina Tramin has become well known for in the wine world.

Grapes of Alto Adige — Small scale plots allow Cantina Tramin to gently harvest its grapes by hand.

Part of the secret lies in treating each grape like a hand-picked precious gem. Upon delivery to the winery, grapes gently ride a conveyor belt to the grape press as opposed to direct handling. This helps preserve their delicate nature ensuring Cantina Tramin can reap the full potential of each grape. After the pressing, the grapes begin vinification.

To show us how Cantina Tramin performs the alchemic magic of transforming grape juice into wine, Günther led us to the lower level of the winery. Here, we walked into a fermentation cellar unlike we had ever seen. The fermentation tanks were hidden behind a wall clad with white tiles, which imparted a cool retro look.

However, the retro vibe was not by design. We found out the tanks were installed when the original building was erected in the 1970s. To preserve the foundation of the building during the recent renovation, Cantina Tramin kept the tanks in place but had some relined with stainless steel — a job not fit for anyone prone to claustrophobia as they had to be refurbished from within.

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Günther informed us these tanks are where Cantina Tramin ferments its Lagrein, Merlot and Pinot Nero grapes. The vinification process is monitored closely by man and machine. Precise measurement and control of the fermenting climate allow the winery to prevent unwanted evaporation thus elevating the aromatic quality of its wines.

We followed Günther into another part of the cellar where rows of stainless steel fermentation tanks stood side-by-side like beaming performers on a stage. These types of tanks were more familiar to our eyes. This is where Cantina Tramin’s award-winning whites continue their journey to juicy elegance.

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After touring the fermentation cellars, Günther brought us to a new addition within the winery’s lower level. Behind towering walls of glass fit for a James Bond film set rested dozens of bottled gems from Cantina Tramin aging until some appointed awakening.

Beyond this vintage bottle cellar, we entered a room cast under the soft glow of wine-red ambient lighting. Before us were mighty French oak wine casks followed by stacks of barriques. Günther shared that the new addition is not only for maturing wines, but also a space to host wine tasting events such as when they introduce new vintages. We certainly understood why. The atmosphere made us want to get lost in a bottle.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 82 — Cantina Tramin’s Pinot Grigio zips through the final stages of bottling before labeling and packaging.

Next, Günther led us to a bottling area where machines hummed a steady rhythm as they produced bottle after bottle of Pinot Grigio — Cantina Tramin’s most popular wine for export.

This was our first time watching a wine bottling operation in action. The automated technology behind producing pallets of wine ready to ship was fascinating to watch.

Tasting Cantina Tramin Wines

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Günther continued our tour by leading us back upstairs to a tasting room offering the same splendid vineyard and mountain views we soaked in on our first visit. The beauty stretching beyond the windows was intoxicating.

But of course, the addition of wine in such a setting makes it even more spectacular. After consuming Cantina Tramin’s history and witnessing the story behind its wines, we were excited to begin the tasting. Here are the highlights.

Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio – Classic Series. As mentioned above, this is the Pinot Grigio the winery sells the most beyond South Tyrol. We can always find it at our favorite local wine shop. The grapes are sourced from vines planted at elevations ranging from 650 to 1,300+ feet. They thrive in calcareous clay and gravelly soil with long days under the sun followed by brisk nights. Vinification in stainless steel preserves the wine’s fresh tropical fruit flavors and elicits the type of elegant finish we really enjoy during the summer months. On the nose, we caught hints of roses and cloves. It is excellent as a sipping wine or to pair with light salads and seafood. We have bought it priced at $15-$16.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 84 — The Pinot Grigio from Cantina Tramin is one we can almost always find in wine shops near us.

Cantina Tramin Unterebner Pinot Grigio – Selections Series. Our first thought after sipping this top end Pinot Grigio from Cantina Tramin is it mirrors summer. Sprinkling it over snow may just be enough to usher in spring after a long winter. The wine gleamed more golden in color than the Classic Series Pinot Grigio. It was also a fuller wine offering a more powerful expression with aromas of pear, vanilla, toast and tobacco due to partial fermentation in oak barrels, which is quite a unique treatment for Pinot Grigio. The finish lingered beautifully. We were surprised to learn it matures for 14 months and has an aging potential of 7 to 10 years. Günther indicated the wine nicely complements smoked fish and white meats. The price on average is $35.

Cantina Tramin Troy Chardonnay – Selections Series. When we first saw “Troy” on the label we assumed an obscure grape varietal connection to the ancient Greek city. Never assume when in South Tyrol. We found out “Troy” means “path” in Rhaetian, an ancient language spoken in the Alps. The name is a fitting representation of the long journey Cantina Tramin has taken to cultivate an exquisite Chardonnay upon the steep slopes of Tramin.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 85 — Cantina Tramin’s Troy Chardonnay is an achievement to be celebrated. It is pleasantly powerful with a smooth and enticing finish.

A feat not so easily achieved in mountainous climates. The winery carefully harvests each grape by hand at elevations nearing 2,000 feet. The grapes then ferment in oak barrels resting on the lees for 16 months before maturing another 22 months in stainless steel tanks. The 2015 wears Alpine freshness on its sleeve showing abundant fresh apple and citrus fragrances. We noticed a pleasant burst of mint on the finish. This is definitely a Chardonnay we would give to any lover of the variety even at the price point of $69.

Cantina Tramin Selida Gewürztraminer – Classic Series. “Selida” means “small farmstead”, and reflects Cantina Tramin’s tradition of working with modest-size plot owners. The small origins of this wine pay off in a big presentation. We found it intensely aromatic with an equally intense yellow color. Its bouquet swirls with roses and mangos. Spicy and sweet in flavor, it would be a fun Alpine wine to sip with sushi. Selida is priced at around $13-$14.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 86 — The Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer is a delicious white that will definitely be joining our table next Thanksgiving.

Cantina Tramin Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer – Selections Series. The Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer from Cantina Tramin elevated the notion of fragrant wine to a whole new level for us. We noticed it right out of the bottle. Like the Unterebner, it is a more powerful expression in the winery’s portfolio. This wine whisks you through a garden of aromas and flavors from lilies and ginger to mango, peach, golden apple, apricot and melon. Günther noted Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer complements many dishes such as seafood and Asian as well as blue cheese. We thought it would make an excellent companion to smoked turkey. It is another white from Cantina Tramin that ages gracefully — up to 15 years. $40.

Cantina Tramin Epokale Gewürztraminer – Selections Series. When a wine becomes the first white in Italy to score 100 points, you better believe there is a story behind it. The Epokale Gewürztraminer is born from two of the oldest vineyards in Tramin and a whole lot of darkness.

Epokale ages for 7 years deep in a silver mountain mine near Sterzing at a height of 6,500 feet. The shaft of the mine gives Gewürztraminer a flawless environment to mature in over a course of years as it experiences consistent temperature, humidity and pressure.

The outcome of being trapped in a silver mine for nearly a decade is what can only be described as pure liquid gold.

The 2009 Epokale is the most unique Gewürztraminer we have ever sipped. Exceptionally sweet and smooth all at once. An exceedingly rare wine perfectly balanced to delight all your senses. Getting a bottle is not easy. It is mainly sold to restaurants and in only a few wine shops. Naturally, it comes with a steep price as well at $99+.

Cantina Tramin Maglen Pinot Noir – Selections Series. This high-elevation Pinot Noir stuns on the nose. We delighted in cherries and raspberries. It has a pale ruby color with a bit of a spicy feel in the mouth. The Maglen matures for 12 months in French oak, followed by 6 more months in massive oak casks. We would consider this a crisp, easy-drinking red and could see ourselves enjoying it with various pasta dishes. $40

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 87 — Swirling a glass of ruby-red Lagrein from Alto Adige is one of the simple pleasures in life.

Cantina Tramin Urban Lagrein – Selections Series. The top Lagrein from Cantina Tramin should be a part of your next dinner involving red meats lightly flipped on the grill, wild game or if you’re treating yourself to something as simple as pizza. This wine wows with its ruby color, velvety mouthfeel, fruity flavor with hints of cocoa and full-bodied structure. It matures for 12 months in French oak barrels followed by another 6 months in concrete tanks. After bottling, the Urban Lagrein matures in the bottle an additional 6 months. The price on average is $40.

Cantina Tramin Wines: The Soul of the Mountain 88 — Cantina Tramin’s public relations and communications manager, Günther Facchinelli, guided us through a first class tasting of its wines.

How to Visit Cantina Tramin

To really savor the essence of these stunning wines, add Cantina Tramin to your South Tyrol trip itinerary. As you can see through this post, the winery is remarkable inside and out. Trust us, spending a day along the South Tyrolean Wine Road with a stop at Cantina Tramin is a relaxing break from hiking in the mountains.

The winery sits directly off the wine road just north of the wine village of Tramin. Taking the time to casually stroll the cobblestone streets of Tramin is also a must when adventuring on the wine road.

The Cantina Tramin tasting room opens at 9 am Monday through Saturday. You can also book guided tours at their reception area or in advance by contacting the winery.

Of course, you do not have to visit South Tyrol to sip the wines of Cantina Tramin. The winery exports much of its portfolio around the world. And with 1.9 million bottles produced each year, there’s a good chance you can locate Cantina Tramin in a wine shop near you. If not, they can be purchased online at various wine merchants such as Wine.com.

We would like to give special thanks to Sigrid Pichler, Günther Facchinelli and Willi Stürz for sharing the story and wines of Cantina Tramin. Their extensive time with us is greatly appreciated!

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Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol

Updated: February 18, 2023

Ancient wonders abound in South Tyrol. But only Abbazia di Novacella can stake the claim as one of the oldest operating wineries in the world.

Abbazia di Novacella is an awe-inspiring cultural treasure nestled in the frolicsome foothills surrounding South Tyrol’s oldest town: Brixen. Founded in 1142 — more than 880 years ago — it is among the most stunning historic destinations in the Alps. An enthralling symphony of sights beautifully orchestrated amid the rolling vineyards and forested slopes of the region.

Anyone admiring Abbazia di Novacella (also known as “Neustift Monastery”, “Kloster Neustift and “Abbey of Novacella”) from near or far, will be immediately struck by its architectural splendor spanning centuries. The estate boasts a labyrinth of structures and courtyards showcasing Gothic, Baroque and Rococo designs through the ages.

The history of Abbazia di Novacella alone is enough to justify a visit, but we were drawn to it for reasons that please the lips as much as the soul. We sought to discover how a monastery adhering to a monastic rule dating back to the 4th century, the strict religious order of Saint Augustine, produces some of the most highly regarded wines in Italy.

Among the Vines of Abbazia di Novacella

Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol 91 — The haunting Castel Sant’Angelo greets you in the main courtyard at Abbazia di Novacella.

We arrived at Abbazia di Novacella late in the morning on a day when the South Tyrolean sun blessed every waking moment. Walking into the main courtyard we encountered a foreboding building. This castled structure stood etched with medieval menace. You could be forgiven for thinking a mere cracking of its door would unleash the Dark Ages.

We later learned this stone marvel was far from sinister. The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally a chapel dedicated to St. Michael but took on its imposing castle facade in the 15th century when the monastery was fortified to protect against invading Turks

Elias Holzer, the sommelier of Abbazia di Novacella, soon greeted us as we stood eyeing an outdoor patio off the courtyard. Its enticing setting looked ripe for unwinding and losing all sense of time. After a quick introduction, Elias led us on a tour of the property.

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We passed through a massive arched doorway into the vineyards encircling the abbey. Stone walls staggered up the slopes creating a terrace of vines running from 1,970 ft to 2,950 ft. Different grape varieties clung to the rising plots allowing them to flourish in their own unique microclimate. Elias noted the dry stone walls not only make the steepness less severe for workers but also release captured daytime heat to warm the vines at night.

Kerner grape was planted at the lowest elevation followed by Sylvaner and then Gewürztraminer, which is in a position to receive the most sun. Beyond the rows of Gewürztraminer grapes, laid Pinot Grigio, Riesling and finally Müller-Thurgau.

As we walked on, Elias explained why the wines of Abbazia di Novacella are celebrated for their excellent expression of the variety’s individual location. Novacella continuously cultivates these characteristics thanks to its long-standing principle: “it’s better to have less but good”.

Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol 93 — Abbazia di Novacella’s sommelier, Elias Holzer, explains the winemaking principles of the monastery. Every inch of the property is taken into consideration. Even the impact of the shadows cast by the historic buildings.

Following this tenet has guided Abbazia di Novacella through the centuries. But it’s not the only principle contributing to the winery’s success in making wines with great character year after year. Abbazia di Novacella also achieves award-winning quality by allowing its winemakers to embrace change as much as tradition.

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Mastering the Fruit of the Vine

During the Middle Ages, Abbazia di Novacella monks mainly produced red wine. But at the turn of the 20th century that all changed. They began planting white grape varieties around the abbey. The winemakers found the large temperature swings between day and night along with the fertile glacial moraine soil much better suited for producing mineral-rich, aromatic whites.

Today, the abbey’s vineyards give rise to seven different white wines: Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Red wines still comprise part of Abbazia di Novacella’s portfolio. However, the red varieties now come from vineyards the abbey owns further south near Bolzano and Girlan. These yield Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Schiava and Moscato Rosa.

Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol 94 — Admiring the beautified grounds of Abbazia di Novacella.

We wandered on until reaching the historical gardens of Abbazia di Novacella. Below us lay a kaleidoscope of flower beds and plants dotted among manicured greenery. The gardens, we discovered, possess ginkgo trees, a redwood and nearly a hundred herb varieties. Strolling through it undoubtedly invites moments of pure serenity.

One with the Mountain

Next, we walked up to a plot of land supporting virgin vines. Elias pointed out that underneath all the fresh earth was their new winery production facility. Out of solemn respect for preserving the historical character of the monastery, Abbazia di Novacella expanded its operation by tunneling beneath the slope. Upon finishing construction, one meter of soil was spread over the roof for planting vines. Harvesting the first vintage is expected in three years.

Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol 95 — Part of the Abbazia di Novacella Winery ingeniously lies beneath your very feet.

As impressive as an underground winery is, it turns out Abbazia di Novacella’s earthly binds do not end there. Wood chips from its own forest lands heat the entire estate. Furthermore, Novacella relies on its own hydropower station to power the complex. These sustainable practices allow the abbey to operate with a net-zero carbon footprint. A feat achieved in 1992 long before many other wineries around the world.

According to Elias, Abbazia di Novacella extends the idea of sustainability to winemaking itself. Strict production procedures minimize waste yielding “wines with as little residuals as possible.” The winery even conserves water with a state-of-the-art irrigation system that disperses water precisely where needed.

From the Vine to the Glass

Elias led us into the wine production facility through a building cleverly disguised as an Alpine barn. Here, he walked through how two machines automatically destem the grapes before one of four pneumatic wine presses gently compress them to extract the juice destined to become magic in the glass. During the grape pressing, the unwanted parts of the grape are separated to ensure the utmost wine quality.

Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol 96 — Elias shares how Abbazia di Novacella precisely controls the vinification environment of its wine. Through the touchscreen interface, winemakers set the temperature of the stainless steel tanks. Novacella’s white wines ferment between 3°C to 20°C.

We followed Elias down into a cellar filled with massive stainless steel fermentation tanks. He showed us how Abbazia di Novacella custom tailors the vinification environment of each wine through a touch-screen interface. This allows Novacella to masterfully reveal the expression of every single vineyard plot time and time again.

From there, we walked into another cellar chamber lined with French oak barriques for maturing specific wines. Our final stop in the winery was in the bottling area where Abbazia di Novacella corks 2,500 bottles of wine per hour. In total, the winery produces 700,000 bottles per year (70% white and 30% red), 25% of which is sold outside of Italy. Novacella’s wine is sold in 40 different countries with the U.S. representing the largest export market.

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A Stroll Through the Ages

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We stepped out of the winery greeted by a green soccer field. Elias could tell our surprise. He shared that Abbazia di Novacella is also a boarding school for 90 boys. Quite the place to hit the books we thought.

Crossing over the field we entered the abbey complex again passing by a small parish cemetery filled with wrought iron crosses. Here, monks of the abbey from times past lay in peace. Elias ushered us into a courtyard where a Romanesque clock tower cast a massive shadow over us. This looming giant we found out is the collegiate church of the abbey.

Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol 98 — The striking Baroque interior of the Abbazia di Novacella church takes your breath away.

Despite being completed in 1218, the interior was anything but medieval. Lavish Baroque decor met us the moment we walked in. A renovation in the 1700s brought bold ornamentation to every aspect within its hallowed walls. The level of artistry and detail was awe-inspiring. Among the finest in South Tyrol. The high-ceiling paintings by the renowned Matthäus Günther alone are worth a visit to this church.

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Towards the end of World War II, all of this artistic brilliance was almost lost. The Germans put the monastery in the sights of the Allies when they used it to store armaments. In March 1945, the Allies bombed Abbazia di Novacella damaging a portion of the church. Thanks to restoration work it now stands in its former glory.

Another sight worth seeing near the church is the Gothic cloister. It runs to the right of the church unfolding over 19 arcades decorated with medieval frescoes telling the tales of various saints.

Where Ancient Wonders Lie

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Leaving the church we passed into another courtyard. An octagonal gazebo structure from 1669 called the Wunderbrunnen (“Well of Wonders”) sat in its heart. On each side below the eave is a depiction of one of the seven Ancient Wonders of the World. With eight sides to decorate, the artist conveniently added Abbazia di Novacella as the eighth wonder — clearly an artful attempt to cement his place in heaven.

Next, we crossed through an arched passageway under a two-story building clad in sprawling ivy. Elias noted this as the abbey’s famous library. It houses approximately 98,000 volumes within 42 intricately-carved bookcases.

Abbazia di Novacella: A Heavenly Swirl with Historic South Tyrol 101 — Take a spin around the Well of Wonders to enjoy paintings from 1669.

The library has been a treasured repository of knowledge since the Middle Ages. Its shelves hold some of the oldest manuscripts and maps in Europe. Over the centuries intellectuals from theologians to scientists to philosophers and more have culled wisdom from within.

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Discovering the Wines of Abbazia di Novacella

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After our tour through the winery and historic walk, we were anxious to sample wines clearly produced with a balanced eye on the past and future.

We followed Elias into the Stiftskeller. This cozy building invites visitors to sit under ancient vaulted ceilings with soft lighting akin to candle glow. We found it a perfect setting to enjoy wine as well as other sumptuous goods from Abbazia di Novacella. An elegantly set table welcomed us with a basket holding an assortment of South Tyrolean bread.

Elias informed us we would be sampling wines from each of Abbazia di Novacella’s lines: Classic and Praepositus. The Classic line offers wines ready to drink young with a price-to-quality ratio that makes them an outstanding value. The Praepositus (“prior of an abbey”) line of wines represents the finest characteristics of Novcella’s vineyards — grapes cultivated from the very best locations where temperature and soil allow producing wines of sterling quality.

The Whites of Abbazia di Novacella

We began the tasting with the Abbazia di Novacella Sylvaner from the abbey’s Classic Line. Neither one of us had sipped Sylvaner before. As an ancient variety, introducing us to this mysterious white first was rather fitting. Sylvaner thrives in the Isarco Valley where Novacella is located. It is a grape variety born during the Middle Ages in Transylvania.

We found it to be elegant and fresh. A wine we could easily sip in summer. It imparted fruit-friendly notes of pear and apple. Elias indicated it was an excellent wine to pair with cold cuts, soups, pasta and chicken dishes. After sipping the Praepositus Sylvaner, we were ready to abandon Pinot Grigio as our go-to summer white. It was tantalizingly refreshing.

We followed Sylavaner with Abbazia di Novacella Kerner from the Classic Line. We were somewhat familiar with Kerner as we had enjoyed this brightly aromatic white a few times in our exploration of wines from South Tyrol. Elias shared that the Kerner grape originated in Germany and is a cross of Riesling and Schiava (also known as “Vernatsch). Its name stems from Justinus Kerner, a poet who penned odes to wine.

The Kerner from Novacella was golden yellow in color with hints of green. We noticed peach on the nose and delicious green apple flavors. It was pleasantly crisp with a full, mineral-rich finish.

Elias then poured the Praepositus Kerner. To us, it had an intriguing spicy, exotic bouquet and the palate was noticeably more expressive and juicy. We caught a glimpse of ginger on the finish.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner — Abbazia di Novacella’s Praepositus Kerner is an exceptional white that can be aged 10 years. It pairs well with sushi and Indonesian fare.

Next, Elias introduced another white that was new to our lips: Grüner Veltliner. Grüner Veltliner hails from Austria but is another variety that excels in the Isarco Valley. A versatile, food-friendly wine, Grüner Veltliner we learned makes an enticing alternative to Chardonnay.

The Grüner Veltliner from Novacella’s Classic and Praepositus line had a quite likable subtle tangy character. Unlike Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner does not age in oak, which is perhaps why we found it far more interesting. The lively gold color of the Praepositus Grüner Veltliner made it as fun to look at as to sip.

The Reds of Abbazia di Novacella

Our journey with Abbazia di Novacella wines continued to Schiava — a South Tyrolean favorite. Schiava is an everyday wine. In fact, Elias’s grandfather would uncork a bottle of Schiava while playing cards. The Kalterersee Auslese Schiava from Novacella was joyfully light and fruity. Easy to sip on its own or with a meal. Elias recommended it as a red that if chilled makes a great companion to a hot summer day.

Novacella Schiava — A red for summer? Abbazia di Novacella is seeing Schiava become an increasingly popular choice for patio sipping.

Next, we sampled another red beauty of South Tyrol: Lagrein. If you have not recognized the charms of Lagrein yet, the Praepositus Lagrein Riserva is an excellent place to start. It is surprisingly juicy with a riveting deep purple color.

Abbazia di Novacella matures their Lagrein for 18 months in French oak barriques, which imparts a toastiness to it with tobacco and licorice notes. It has a strong structure and tannic finish. Definitely a wine to uncork on any table serving hearty meats like venison or aged cheese.

Our final wine was Abbazia di Novacella’s Moscato Rosa, which is a unique and rare wine in South Tyrol according to Elias. Only 12 hectares of Moscato Rosa exist in the region. Novacella owns 15 percent of it. Elias promised that “to taste it once, is to remember it forever”. He was absolutely right.

On the nose, this lovely dessert wine reminded us of the roses we smelled while walking the vineyards. Elias shared that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa takes its sweetly decadent shape through precise temperature control while it ferments in stainless steel tanks for 7 months. We found the wine to be a gem. Delicious and balanced extremely well. It was silky sweet yet had the right touch of offsetting acidity and tannins.

We could definitely order a bottle of this the next time we craved an afternoon treat of apfelstrudel. It is one of the rare dessert wines that encourages you to pour a second glass.

Elias also noted with a smile that Novacella’s Moscato Rosa is always a welcome alternative to roses on Valentine’s Day. We couldn’t argue with such a wise proclamation.

Monumental History You Can Sip & Swirl

After our tasting, we bid farewell to Elias. The knowledge he shared during our time with him opened up a whole new world to explore. We were grateful for his professional guidance. Elias’s passion for wine is utterly contagious. We lingered a bit in the Stiftskeller nibbling on the remainder of the South Tyrolean goodness left in the basket.

Fortunately, we still had time to explore more of the abbey complex before heading into the heart of Brixen for its annual Bread & Strudel Market. Savoring the beautiful antiquity all around is one of the things we find most rewarding about South Tyrol. We wandered for a while capturing more of its history against nature’s ever-alluring backdrop.

When to Visit Abbazia di Novacella

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If you’re a lover of wine or just a fan of history, adding a visit to Abbazia di Novacella is a must on your South Tyrol itinerary. The sights and sips you’ll encounter will find a home in your soul.

The monastery can be toured year-round from Monday through Saturday with the exception of church holidays. Free parking is located just outside the complex. Tours may not be available in English on a given day so contact Novacella beforehand to confirm.

You can taste Abbazia di Novacella wines, as well as savor traditional South Tyrolean food in the Stiftskeller from 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. each day. The only exception is Sundays and holidays.

Novacella also offers guided wine tastings for groups of at least ten. The tasting includes four wines (two red wines and two white wines) and takes about an hour. Upon request, the tasting can also be combined with a brief tour of Novacella’s wine cellar and vineyard.

If you can’t make it to South Tyrol for a tasting, be sure to ask for Abbazia di Novacella at your favorite wine shop. Each time you uncork a bottle you’ll be supporting one of Italy’s greatest cultural treasures.

Where to Stay in Brixen

Those wishing to combine soul-soothing wellness with historic wonder should consider a stay at the new adults-only My Arbor resort. This treetop hotel enjoys a stunning perch on a pine-drenched mountainside high above Brixen. The canopy of the forest appears to suspend My Arbor all on its own.

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Whether you seek a romantic getaway or a trip teeming with adventure, My Arbor offers a variety of appealing packages that will make your escape to South Tyrol even more special. See more of what’s waiting for you here.

Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery

Updated: February 18, 2023

What is your idea of romance? A candlelight dinner? A moonlit stroll? How about sipping delicious wines amongst crumbling castles and breathtaking mountain views? Such a place exists — and best of all you do not have to suffer a romance novel to experience it.

If you are not familiar with South Tyrol’s wine country, spending a day cruising along its famous Wine Road makes for an excellent introduction. This mellow roadway unfurls with pure Mediterranean bliss — winding gently from one vine-drenched hill to the next.

Stately manors in regal poses pop amid the fruited scape — painting a seductive scene that would make even Casanova blush. But as nice as it is to drive along the Wine Road, we discovered that to really appreciate the unique culture of South Tyrol’s Alpine wines, nothing tops staying at a boutique winery perched beneath the peaks.

In this post, we introduce you to the lovely Donà Winery (officially Weingut Donà in German) — a charming family-owned wine estate situated near the historic wine village of Eppan. In addition to romancing grapevines into mouth-dazzling wines, the estate also offers guests a chance to relax amid vineyards while enjoying the lofty company of the Dolomites and Alps. As you’ll see, staying in a place surrounded by such beauty is an experience unlike any other.

Escape to the Vines

Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery 107 — Passing the village of San Paolo on the drive to Donà Winery.

Thanks to a canceled flight and the inevitable outcome of lost luggage, it was evening by the time we turned up the road toward Weingut Donà. Since night had fallen, we were grateful to have rows of grapevines guiding us in the headlights until reaching the villa parking lot. Without these leafy blessings of Bacchus who knows where we would have wound up?

While getting out of our car, we spotted a stone ruin softly bathed in amber lighting high up on the mountain behind Donà Winery. What ancient wonder loomed overhead we wondered?

As we arrived later than our scheduled check-in time, Martina Waldner Donà, the owner of Weingut Donà, gave us instructions to locate the keys to our villa apartment. Walking in was immediately pleasing to our travel-weary legs and eyes.

Warm alpine wood accents greeted us. These rustic adornments were complemented by contemporary touches — perfectly marrying Tyrolean charm with Italian flair. The thoughtfully curated decor and furnishings gave the apartment a spacious yet cozy look.

We fell in love with a dining nook tucked into the corner of the kitchen by a window. The thought of sipping a cup of coffee there in the morning while spying mountain-born treasures out the window was enticing.

But first, we needed some serious rest. We both fell into bed and let the weight of the day’s travel troubles sink us into a deep sleep.

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A Ring of Mountains

The following morning arrived in a blink. We awoke to the dawning sun pouring through the apartment’s windows. Back home, we would have pulled the covers over our head to catch another wink. But while in South Tyrol, we welcome every single ray.

A balcony off the living room provided the first daylight peek of our surroundings. Grapevines encircled us. In the western horizon, just beyond the rooftops of Bolzano, stood the snow-blessed peaks of the Dolomites.

But the majestic mountain views did not end with the Pale Mountains. The Texel Group of the Italian Alps beamed with morning splendor to the north of Lana and Merano. To the east and south, rose the sandy-hued ridges and crags of the Mendola mountain range.

Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery 111 — Kate admires the centuries-old Hocheppan Castle high above Weingut Donà.

We stepped outside to get a sunlit view of the winery. Its stucco facade gleamed amid the vines. As if the setting wasn’t already swooning with enough romance, a castle gripped the mountainside above us. The mystery from the night before was fully revealed.

The look of awe on our faces must have been rather obvious as we were soon greeted with a knowing smile by Martina Donà. She warmly introduced herself while sharing that the castle was called “Hocheppan”.

Hocheppan Castle South Tyrol — Castle Hocheppan is one of many medieval ruins near Donà.

We were somewhat familiar with this medieval fortress as we knew its 13th-century chapel held the earliest known fresco depicting a man eating one of our favorite Tyrolean dishes: knödel (dumplings).

As self-proclaimed castle hunters, we immediately asked Martina if it was possible to reach Hocheppan. She said it certainly was by foot, but that the interior was closed for the season. That did not matter to us. A good trek is always on our minds in South Tyrol. Hiking to Castle Hocheppan became a must-do while staying at Weingut Donà.

Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery 112 — The snow-capped peaks of the Texel Group soar beyond the vineyards of Weingut Donà.

Martina shared a bit more about possible sights of interest near her winery. Her joy in sharing South Tyrol was only rivaled by her enthusiasm for wowing guests. She made us feel right at home immediately.

Before heading back inside to get ready for a day trip to Bolzano, we scheduled a winery tour and tasting with her the day after our castle hike. Hiking up a mountain the same day as a wine tasting did not seem wise. Castle hunting in South Tyrol demands steady legs.

Savoring South Tyrol’s Wine Culture

The morning after our castle hike was just as gorgeous as the previous two. We savored the sunlight pouring in again while nibbling on fresh Schüttelbrot that Martina graciously left us the day before. If you are not familiar with Schüttelbrot, it is an Alpine-spiced rye flatbread that is a crispy treat common in South Tyrol.

Martina at Weingut Dona — Martina points out the significance of the mountain silhouette on the Weingut Donà logo.

Afterward, a stroll through the vineyard just outside our door was too tempting to pass up. If you have never meandered through a vineyard in the early morning light, make a point to add it to your South Tyrol bucket list. Watching the evening’s mist lift off a canopy of vines as sunlight streaks across the mountain is a sight you will not forget.

Shortly after our walk, Martina arrived greeting us with a bag of freshly picked apples from one of Weingut Donà’s orchards. Immediately sinking into their juiciness was tempting, but we had another fruit to tango with first. She led us below the villa to a boutique wine operation and cellar.

As we toured the winery, Martina shared that Weingut Donà is a family-run wine estate founded by her and husband Hansjörg Donà (both pictured above). Hansjörg spent several years working as a winemaker for other respected wineries in the region — eventually heeding the call to make his own distinct wine mark in South Tyrol.

Bringing together skills, passions and a savvy for recognizing opportunity, Martina and Hansjörg set out to produce exceptional wines that reflect the spirit of the Alps. What’s more, by offering accommodations on the estate, they realized a lifelong dream of intimately sharing South Tyrol’s unique wine culture with guests.

Weingut Dona Fermentation Tanks — A handful of stainless steel fermentation tanks at the winery result in a remarkable amount of reds and whites — 30,000 bottles each year.

When asked what differentiates her winery from others in South Tyrol, Martina stressed the family’s ability to keep a long-term perspective in all that they do. Weingut Donà pays sharp attention to the details that matter in the vine, barrel, bottle and glass.

The estate delicately balances the right touch of leading-edge technology with age-old techniques including careful cultivation by hand. This progressive yet traditional approach ensures Weingut Donà produces only the best wines year after year. The industry has taken notice — granting several coveted awards across the winery’s portfolio.

After admiring the stainless steel tanks in Weingut Donà’s fermentation cellar, Martina led us to an enchanting tasting room lined with French oak barrels. These classic “barriques” do far more than impart a romantic ambiance. The winery also uses them to mature its wines.

While lingering to enjoy the sweet aroma of grapes swirling about the room, Martina shared with us that almost 4 hectares (roughly 10 acres) of vineyards surround the winery. Furthermore, Weingut Donà vinifies grapes from another vineyard near the village of Dorf Tirol to the north. This mountainside plot is the source of the winery’s award-winning Sauvignon Blanc.

In the bottle cellar, Martina pointed out Weingut Donà’s full portfolio. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, other Donà varietals include Chardonnay, Vernatsch, Lagrein and Merlot. Sold mostly to hotels and restaurants in South Tyrol, consumers can also purchase the wines the estate’s wine shop.

Swirling With Donà Wines

We began our tasting with Weingut Donà’s Terlaner Chardonnay. Typically, we skip over Chardonnays when at a wine shop, but the Chardonnay from Weingut Donà was a masterpiece. It was nicely balanced. Both crisp and lush; imparting hints of green-apple flavors.

Next, Martina poured their Vernatsch (also known as Schiava). This varietal has really grown on us during our time in South Tyrol. The Vernatsch was as delicious as any we have tried. Martina indicated that after 5 years of producing it, Weingut Donà won the top award for Vernatsch in Italy. We could easily see ourselves drinking it at any time of year.

We followed the Vernatsch with Weingut Donà’s Lagrein. Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà’s Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry. Lagrein always pleasantly surprises as it is lighter than its color would suggest.

Our final wine was a Lagrein Merlot blend. This beauty was new to us. Martina paired the wine with a hard Parmesan-like cheese from Mila — a local dairy producer that creates authentic Alpine flavors by using milk only from South Tyrol cows. We consider South Tyrolean milk the best in the world so naturally, every bite was a delight.

The Lagrein Merlot itself was excellent. The Merlot had a bolder character that danced with subtle fruit flavors.

With a big smile, Martina made our “sample” a full pour and we all toasted to an exquisite tasting. It’s not every day we sip wine in the morning, but Martina was such fun to be around we would uncork a bottle anytime with her.

Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery 118 — Martina took us on a grand journey through her family’s world-class wines.

We highly recommend all who stay at Weingut Donà to embark on a guided tour and tasting if the opportunity allows it. You will come away with a heartfelt appreciation for the hard work, passion and pure joy the Donàs put into winemaking.

Familylike Hospitality You Will Cherish

After the wine tasting, Martina gave us a tour of the largest apartment at Weingut Donà. It was even more enamoring than our own.

Gorgeously decorated throughout and offering sweeping balcony views to die for, this spacious rental sleeps up to 6 guests. Wine lovers looking for a getaway with friends or family should definitely consider booking here.

Before leaving Martina to enjoy a visit to Merano, she gave us a restaurant recommendation in nearby Lana — an alluring town known as the California of the Alps. She even took the time to call the owner to ensure a table would be available.

Martina then made another call to her daughter, Franziska, informing her we would be parking our car at their other holiday apartments across from the restaurant. Such over-the-top hospitality made us feel like family.

After a brief car ride, we arrived in Lana and met Franziska. She was just as gracious as her mother. Franziska made sure we understood how to find the alley-side restaurant, as well as spent time sharing key sights in Lana we might want to explore.

By the time we arrived at the restaurant, 1477 Reichhalter, we were craving a serious meal. Funny how wine before lunch tends to do that. We sat in a small dining room resembling an old farmhouse inn.

Despite the traditional country ambiance, our hunger talked us into splitting the meals between Italian and South Tyrolean. Both were more than satisfying. If it wasn’t for being full, we just might have immediately reordered a second round of the dishes.

Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery 122 — Sipping Vernatsch while relaxing on Donà Winery’s sun terrace.

We returned to Weingut Donà in the early evening picking up where we left off with Martina. With a bottle of Donà’s award-winning Vernatsch and two glasses in hand, we took a seat on the terrace to watch the setting sun gild the vines in gold. Ending the day this way was the only choice.

How to Experience Weingut Donà

BOOKING OPTIONS FOR WEINGUT DONÀ: The winery offers apartments for up to 4 guests. The two larger villa options can sleep up to 6 guests. Dogs are permitted in the apartments for an additional charge, but not allowed in the villas. Rates are very affordable and vary by season. Explore Weingut Donà booking options and availability for the dates of your holiday travel.

REACHING WEINGUT DONÀ: Getting to Donà is easy. The winery is conveniently accessible via the Autostrada whether arriving in South Tyrol from the south or north. It is located along the South Tyrolean Wine Road within minutes of Eppan (Appiano). Guests can check in beginning at 2 p.m.

WHEN TO VISIT WEINGUT DONÀ: The winery’s apartments and villas are available to guests year-round. Deciding on when to visit is a personal choice. We stayed in late fall and loved seeing the winery transitioning between autumn and winter. However, experiencing Weingut Donà in spring or summer would be equally beautiful.

weingut dona sunset — A stay at Weingut Donà in autumn immerses you in vineyards ablaze with shades of crimson and gold.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES AROUND WEINGUT DONÀ: Plenty of adventure and history lies right outside the winery — making the estate the ideal “choose your own adventure” destination. We highly recommend trekking the Three Castles Walk which carries you through vineyards and forests to the gates of three mountainside medieval gems. In addition, you can explore other remarkable wineries along the Wine Road, as well as visit the chic capital of Bolzano (a 15-minute drive).

If you’re willing to go a bit further north, you can also take in the natural and historic wonders of Lana and Merano. Both are less than 30 minutes from the estate.

And if you are aching to go hiking in the Dolomites, you can be among the stony giants in just 30-40 minutes. From the winery, you can admire the spires of the Rosengarten and Schlern so don’t be surprised if the mountains call!

Additional photos of Weingut Donà credited to Florian Andergassen.

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Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery

Updated: November 8, 2022

Nals Margreid is one of South Tyrol’s most fascinating wineries. Discover how this mountain estate pours centuries of brilliance into everything it produces.

Driving along the South Tyrolean Wine Road it’s hard not to be distracted by the sheer beauty that unfolds around every corner and hill. Lush vineyards continuously dazzle one’s eyes as they cascade down steeply terraced slopes toward waves of vibrant apple orchards.

Beyond the natural grandeur, centuries-old castles and steeples dot the Italian landscape endlessly adding to one’s sense of wonder. Among all this medieval magnificence, you’ll also encounter modern architectural marvels that arouse even more intrigue to the mountainous skylines.

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 126 — The design of Nals Margreid is so captivating at first sight you can be forgiven if you forget to taste its wines.

As we arrived for our tour and tasting at the Nals Margreid Winery in Nalles, a quaint mountain hamlet between Merano and Bolzano, it became clear that South Tyroleans’ love for wine may only be rivaled by their passion for erecting striking structures.

The Nals Margreid Winery impresses within and without. Designed by South Tyrolean architect, Markus Scherzer, and built in 2011 after the merger of The Cellars Nalles and Magre-Niclara wineries, the main building springs up from its natural surroundings resembling intricately engineered origami.

Massive windows reveal the winery’s inner workings. The entire wine production process is visible from the barrels, presses and vats. Peering inside it’s evident that while functionality and sustainable production were paramount to the building’s state-of-the-art design, aesthetics were not sacrificed in any way. No doubt a testament to the exceptional creative talents of hard-working South Tyroleans.

The Architect of Wine

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 127 — Designed by South Tyrolean architect, Markus Scherzer, the Nals Margreid Winery springs up from its natural surroundings resembling intricately engineered origami.

After taking in the winery from the outside, we proceed to the main court which resembles a charming town square. We find our friend and South Tyrol expert, Reka Hukari, inside the winery’s rustic vinoteque located in the winery’s older structure. Soon, we are met by Nals Margried’s winemaker, Harald Schraffl.

Harald has been the winery’s technical magician since 2005. Upon meeting him, one can’t help wonder if he is a close relative of Brad Pitt. We mention this to him and he assures us with a good laugh that he is not! Harald leads us through the vinoteque back to the courtyard. He points out that the vinoteque, like the rest of the winery, blends modern elements with the old such as its cobblestone flooring, which dates back to 1764. Not coincidentally, we soon learn Harald’s philosophy for producing wines exhibits the same reverence for tradition and innovation.

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 128 — Nals Margreid wine is produced from 14 distinct wine-growing regions in South Tyrol.

In the courtyard, we enjoy another sunlit evening as Harald tells us about the vineyards Nals Margreid relies on to produce its exquisite vintages. Today, 140 growers cultivate a wide range of local grape varieties covering more than 370 acres of vineyards, which sit at 200 and 900 meters above sea level.

Harald points to a map anchored to the side of the winery. It identifies vineyards weaving through 14 wine-growing areas in Alto Adige — spanning from Nalles/Nals to Magrè/Margreid. Given this large expanse of growing areas, Nals Margeid wine expresses an incredible range of microclimates and soils.

Cultivating a Balance Between Innovation & Tradition

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 129 — Renowned winemaker, Harald Schraffl, explains Nals Margreid’s sustainable production processes.

We move from the courtyard into the initial production facility in the winery’s new building. Here, Harald shares that a hallmark of Nals Margreid wines is their sophisticated harmonization with the natural environment. The winery employs sustainable methods wherever possible. That means no herbicides. Pests and diseases are mitigated through eco-friendly techniques This approach embodies Nals Margreid’s values and extends to the production process.

Once the grapes are brought to the winery, they are sent through the destemmer and immediately pressed. Instead of using pumps through the process, Nals Margreid utilizes the full strength of gravity. This gently ensures the preservation of all the characteristics that the soils and grape varieties impart to the wines. The winery holds 250 steel tanks to separate the grapes from their various producers.

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 130

Next, we follow Harald back outside and across the courtyard where we pause at a seemingly inaccessible cellar. Above us is a looming angular roof structure that appears to float as it juts out into the Alpine sky. Then, like an illusionist, Harald opens a massive hidden door camouflaged as part of the cellar’s outer wall. We laugh and follow him inside.

He gives us a tour through rows of stacked barrels performing their aging alchemy to transform grapes into vintages certain to wow the lips. We learn the oldest cellar on site dates back to 1764.

Swirls With a VIew

After strolling around the cellars, Harald leads us up to the winery’s tasting area. We step out onto an inviting terrace that draws our eyes over an impressive vista filled with mountains and rustic rooftops. Drinking wine anywhere is a pleasure. Here, it is divine.

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 131

After inhaling the view, we join Harald at a table where he has set out three bottles of wine for us to sample.

The first is the award-winning 2015 Sirmian Pinot Bianco also known as Weissburgunder. Just as South Tyrol is Italy’s best-kept secret, the same could be said for Pinot Bianco, which is a more enlightening counterpart to Pinot Grigio. Alto Adige produces the world’s best Pinot Bianco and Nals Margreid’s Sirmian should be at the top of your list. It is unforgettable. And no surprise the wine Nals Margreid is most famous for.

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 132

Once poured and swirled in our glasses, the wine reveals aromas of apple, pineapple and peach. It delightfully dances in the mouth and has a slightly acidic finish. A true expression of Alpine wine. Harald mentions that this wine is the perfect companion to pasta, risotto or fish. We can’t wait to try it at our next meal.

Next, we taste the 2015 Mantele Sauvignon, which is aged 8 months in big oak barrels. Its fresh and fruity aromas include notes of citrus, grapefruit, blooming elderflower and pepper. Harald informs us the deep gravel of the Mantele growing area provides their Sauvignon with its spiciness and body.

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 133

The area’s cool evenings and the high heat during the day help imbue its fresh structure and fruity bouquet. It is a wine that goes well with starters and veggie-based dishes especially asparagus. We really enjoyed this wine and could easily make it our go-to when relaxing on a summer day.

Last, we taste the intensely crimson 2015 Lagrein, which is grown further south near Bolzano where the grape thrives in warmer temperatures. As we’ve noted in previous posts, Lagrein was relatively unknown to us so we were thrilled to be trying one at Nals Margreid. For those not familiar with Lagrein it is a centuries-old grape native to Alto Adige.

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 134

Nals Margreid’s Lagrein revealed blueberry aromas, a trace of cherry and medium-bodied with a spicy taste. As fans of wild game, this is a wine we would definitely choose when enjoying venison stew. However, we thought it was also nicely balanced and could enjoy it on its own while unwinding after a busy day.

After the wine tasting, Harald invited us to consume the view from the terrace a bit longer. We were not about to decline. When you encounter such sights you’d be crazy not to savor them just like a fine glass of wine.

Enjoy Nals Margreid at Home & in South Tyrol

Mountain Made Brilliance: Visiting Nals Margreid Winery 135

Nals Margreid’s star is rising in the United States. While it’s a newer market for the winery, be sure to ask for their exquisite wines at your local wine shop. We recently found a Nals Margreid 2014 Galea Schiava, which is a lighter-bodied red from the winery. After pouring, it required a bit of breathing before opening up into an easy-to-drink wine that was truly delicious (it did not last long!). We have since gone back and purchased a few more bottles for our wine rack.

If you’re planning a trip to South Tyrol, add Nals Margreid to your itinerary. You will not be disappointed. With a rental car, you can easily reach the winery, which is located on the northern end of the South Tyrolean Wine Road. If you are blessed to have Harald as your guide, tell him greetings from Throne & Vine!

You can learn more about Nals Margreid’s wines and available tours by visiting their website.

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