South Tyrol Trip Tips

A Little Magic Does A Mountain of Good

“Reading gives us someplace to go when we have to stay where we are.” – Mason Cooley

Anyone who thinks there is nothing more magical than travel has never read a good book. A good book conjures a thousand journeys in your mind. Each page an irresistible spell — binding you to another world all without moving your feet. If that’s not true magic then we do not know what is.

If you need some help becoming spellbound at home in these trying times, we suggest sinking into your couch with an old favorite. And if you don’t have a favorite now is the time to discover one.

Here are some South Tyrol flavored books that may do the trick…well magic that is.

Books You Might Like

Craving a thriller? How about a thriller paired with the thrill of the Dolomites? Beneath the Mountain is a novel from Luca D’Andrea, a gifted author from Bolzano. We both found this book an absorbing page-turner.

It takes unexpected twists and turns — cultivating a gripping mystery deep in the Dolomites. But the best part is that it snakes into your mind until you find yourself contemplating the story even when you’re not glued to the book.

We look forward to diving into the author’s follow-up: Sanctuary after we finish the next book on our list.

If you’re in a mood for something more enchanting than suspenseful, consider picking up The Dolomites and their Legends Dolomites by Karl Felix Wolff. This book is a cultural treasure brimming with the fascinating myths and legends born generations ago beneath the crags of the Dolomites.

If a hike in the Dolomites is in your future, this book will give you a new appreciation for the history of the region and how many of the mountains and valleys earned their name.

As fun as it can be to get lost in pages of text, sometimes the accompaniment of gorgeous photos is a welcome sight during your reading time. If that sounds appealing to you, then consider adding South Tyrol: Paradise in the Dolomites by Hanspaul Menara to your collection.

This gorgeous book belongs on your coffee table as much as your bookshelf. It provides an inspiring window into some of our favorite areas of South Tyrol.

During times when exploration is not possible, why not read a book about one of the world’s greatest modern explorers: Reinhold Messner. Born in Val di Funes, Messner found his unbridled passion for mountain climbing while scaling the Dolomites. He went on to conquer Mt. Everest becoming the first human to reach the summit without supplemental oxygen.

The book, Reinhold Messner: My Life At the Limit (Legend and Lore), examines the man offering insight into his explorations and drive that made him a mountaineering legend. We have not read this book yet, but it is on our list as we intend to eventually cover his mountain museums in South Tyrol.

Into true crime? Then jump into the oldest murder mystery on Earth. Journey back to the Neolithic period when Ötzi the Iceman was murdered high up on a mountain in South Tyrol. His mummified body remained lost in ice for 5,300 years.

We couldn’t resist purchasing Ötzi, the Iceman: The Full Facts at a Glance by Angelika Fleckinger after visiting the frozen corpse of Ötzi at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano. This fact-based book is filled with riveting facts and photos about one of mankind’s greatest historical discoveries.

After reading the book, consider watching a fictionalized movie about Ötzi appropriately titled ICEMAN. It hauntingly reimagines how Ötzi might have met his end. The true-to-history sets and wardrobes in the movie are remarkable to see come to life.

It’s nice to see more and more authors shining a brighter light on World War I history. One new book well worth reading on such a tragic time in history is The White War: Life and Death on the Italian Front 1915-1919 by Mark Thompson. This enthralling and brutal account of what soldiers endured fighting amid the peaks of the Dolomites helps put today’s crisis into perspective.

For a novel about World War I, a must-read is All Quiet on the Western Front. This literary classic by Erich Maria Remarque is a book we return to time and time again. The gripping story of the horrors experienced by the young soldier, Paul Bäumer, makes it one of the most compelling anti-war novels of all time.

If war history does not excite you perhaps a fantasy novel will. In that case, now is a good time to reach for Lord of the Rings by J.R.R. Tolkien. The Dolomites and their many legends served as inspiration for Middle Earth and the rich characters within.

Of course, you do not have to end your fantasy journey in Middle Earth. With A Game of Thrones finally over on HBO, you can revisit the adventures in Westeros by finally reading George R.R. Martin’s sprawling saga entitled A Song of Ice and Fire.

Nothing will make you feel more like conquering a castle in South Tyrol than a sword made of Valerian steel and a medieval tavern full of ale.

Most travel guides are only captivating when you’re in the middle of planning a trip. Not The Sunny Side of Alps: Year-Round Delights in South Tyrol and the Dolomites by Paul Hofmann. This inspirational guide reads like a story.

It is written a bit like an autobiography, but the author always makes sure South Tyrol remains the star. His descriptions paint vivid pictures of the land while also giving an endearing peek into the rich history and traditions of its people.

We bring this hidden gem on every outing in South Tyrol.

A Mountain Cookbook You’ll Love

Finally, a book all mountain lovers should not be without is Alpine Flavours: Authentic recipes from the Dolomites, the heart of the Alps…especially if restaurants are closed near you. You probably have heard us rave about this cookbook before. We use it weekly.

Beautifully put together with stunning photos, Alpine Flavours will make you a pro at concocting amazing dishes and desserts born in the valleys and mountainsides of the Dolomites.

Trust us, an evening with a homemade South Tyrolean meal followed by a generous helping of apple strudel will do wonders to lift your spirits. It’s mountain food after all!

Time to Slay a Dragon

Literary giant, Neil Gaiman, once said: “Fairy tales are more than true: not because they tell us that dragons exist, but because they tell us that dragons can be beaten.”

The world now faces a dragon. And for most of us, the best way to beat this beast is by staying home. Let a good book be your anchor and arrow. The little bit of magic within will do a mountain of good.

Each time your wanderlust feet ache to leave your house, pick up a book. Cracking open that binding will be like one more shot through the dragon’s heart.

Discover the Best Hikes in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 17 Comments

Looking for the best hikes in the Dolomites? Our hiker-inspired list will help you confidently plan your adventure-filled holidays in the Dolomites.

WE KNOW HOW hard it is to plan a trip to the Dolomites when every mountain and valley seems like a must-see. Especially if you only have 2-3 days to visit.

With 26 majestic ranges emblazoned by more than 3,600 trails, it’s easy to quickly become overwhelmed by the hiking possibilities. To help you, we went beyond our own experiences and surveyed the web analyzing the ratings and reviews of Dolomite hikes featured on the world’s leading travel sites.

The result? An in-depth overview of the top hikes in the Dolomites based on the experience of thousands of hikers — not just our opinion. In addition, we have also included helpful tips for creating a Dolomites itinerary that ensures your time in Italy is even more amazing.

#1 Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Located in the Tre Cime Natural Park in the Sexten Dolomites of South Tyrol, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (also known as Drei Zinnen and Three Peaks of Lavaredo) are the most famous trio of stone giants in the Dolomites. Their staggering immensity is hard to put into words. But to give you a striking perspective notice the tiny specks of hikers approaching the Three Peaks in the above photo. Such a sight makes it easy to understand why Tre Cime di Lavaredo tops the list of best hikes in the Dolomites.

The spear-like peaks, Cima Piccola, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest, pierce the sky at 9,373, 9,839 and 9,754 feet respectively. If they do not make your heart race upon first sight, check your pulse.

Angel of the Fallen monument at Tre Cime di Lavaredo — The Angel of the Fallen is a monument honoring the soldiers who fought among the peaks during WWI.

A mostly level hiking trail loops around the Three Peaks making these three amigos of the Dolomites incredibly popular with hikers of all ages and experience levels. The hike takes roughly four hours beginning from the parking lot near the Rifugio Auronzo mountain hut.

In addition to admiring the towering monoliths up close, you will also encounter military remnants from World War I including tunnels and trenches as the Front tore directly through here. For more about the war’s impact, see our award-winning story: Forest of the Fallen.

#2 Lago di Braies

It’s no surprise one of the most beautiful lakes in the world is among the best places in the Dolomites. A jewel of Italy, Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee, Lake Braies and Lake Prags) attracts throngs of visitors from around the world each year.

Regardless of the season, the lake set against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains is a sight to behold. But to see it sparkle like a rare emerald, plan to visit between May and November.

The trail around Lago di Braies is one of the best hikesin the Dolomites — When you’re done hiking around Lago di Braies, consider rowing about the lake in a vintage wooden boat.

A hiking trail encircles the lake beginning from Hotel Braies. It is an easy 2-hour hike that does not require any skill or feat of fitness.

But the trek may require you to dodge other hikers as this gem becomes incredibly busy. See our complete guide to hiking Lake Braies for details on how to enjoy the “Emerald of Italy” without the crowds.

#3 Seceda

Our personal favorite on this list, Seceda mountain (also known as the Seceda Ridgeline or Fermeda Towers) is an awe-inspiring spectacle soaring high above Val Gardena in the Puez-Odle Nature Park. Its ridgeline runs peacefully above an Alpine prairie before the saw-toothed peaks known as the Fermeda Towers cleave the heavens.

Seeing these serrated crags up close is a must for mountain lovers. In addition, the views of other famous South Tyrolean peaks from the seat of Seceda is astounding.

Dolomites in Sudtirol — One of the best hikes in the Dolomites is without a doubt along the Seceda ridgeline.

A series of lifts make reaching Seceda rather easy. The level of difficulty a hiker encounters depends on the route they choose to take down the mountain. Plan on 4-6 hours if you choose to wander from Seceda to the Twin Peaks of Pieralongia and beyond. You can find all the details and options in our hiking Seceda guide.

#4 Alpe di Siusi

Hiking around Schlern in the Dolomites — Hiking Alpe di Sisui brings you face-to-face with many symbolic mountains of the Dolomites such as Schlern.

We adore hiking Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm). As Europe’s highest Alpine pasture, it unfurls jaw-dropping mountain vistas in the most dramatic way. The pasture land is a plateau rimmed by the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites – Schlern, Sassolungo and the Rosengarten.

Thanks to its many gently rolling hills, Alpe di Siusi is a walker’s paradise. Several hiking trails criss-cross the plateau making it one of the more popular day hikes in the Dolomites.

In addition, a network of mountain huts allows you to savor some of the best homemade meals in the region. Our favorite is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. This family-owned gem (pictured above) offers the best views of the Sassolungo Group. Plus, all of their food comes directly from their own farm.

Plan to spend a minimum of a half-day hiking. Our Alpe di Siusi hiking guide gives you step-by-step directions to this Alpine wonderland.

#5 Lago di Carezza

Another lake not to miss in the Dolomites is Lago di Carezza (also known as Karesee, Karer Lake or Lake Carezza). Even more magical than Lago di Braies (if you believe the legends), Lake Carezza shimmers beneath the Latemar mountain range of the Dolomites in Val d’ Ega. Less than 30 minutes from the charming city of Bolzano, it is a convenient hiking destination for anyone staying in the heart of South Tyrol.

Lago di Carezza is often referred to as the Fairytale Lake of the Dolomites. Its ever-changing rainbow of emerald colors inspired legends long ago of a wizard and nymph. You can attempt to spot both myths by hiking an evergreen-forested loop around the lake. It is only a 30-minute hike, but with plenty of opportunities to explore, a visit can easily turn into 2+ hours.

Hiking Lago di Carezza in winter — Lago di Carezza transforms into a postcard-perfect winter wonderland during the Christmas season.

If you are in South Tyrol during the holidays, be sure to visit the Lago di Carezza Christmas Market as well. Set along the shoreline, the market brims with the cozy tidings of the season. And somehow the frozen lake still dances with a theater of icy hues.

While Lago di Braies tends to get much of the attention in the Dolomites, we prefer the pure stillness of Lago di Carezza and the Latemar mountains. If you like tranquil moments while hiking, you will find them here.

#6 Sassolungo & Sassopiatto

Sassolungo and Sassopiatto (also known as Langkofel and Plattkofel) are jagged behemoths making up the Langkofel group of the Dolomites. The sight of them from a distance is astounding. Up close it is jarring. In a way that enlivens all your senses.

From traversing the surreal “City of Stone” to taking in the undulating expanse of Alpe di Siusi from their mountainsides, hiking amid these imposing peaks should rank higher on this list in our opinion. For us, these giants encapsulate what we love about the Dolomites more than any other mountains in the world — the ability to experience their entirety from so many different vantage points.

Dog in the Dolomites — The Sassolungo-Sassiopattio hike also offers sweeping views of the Sella Group as well as this beautiful lady…if you’re lucky!

A lengthy hiking trail of varying difficulty runs around Sassolungo and Sassopiatto. Trekking the Sassolungo circuit will take your breath away in more ways than one.

Fortunately, a handful of mountain huts dot the route allowing you ample opportunities to rest and recharge with food and drink. We suggest beginning the hike at the Passo Sella parking lot in Selva (Wolkenstein). The loop takes 7-8 hours to complete, but you do not have to trek the full circuit to experience this heavenly group of the Dolomites. See our guide to Sassolungo for a couple of fascinating hiking routes.

#7 Odle Group of Val di Funes

While researching hikes in the Dolomites, chances are you have come across the picturesque scene of the Church of St. Maddalena or the Chapel of St. Johann against the roaring backdrop of the Odle Group (also known as Geisler Group). These historic churches reside in Val di Funes (Villnöss) and are emblematic sights of South Tyrol.

In addition to visiting Val di Funes for such saintly views, you can embark on a hike that carries you directly to the foot of the mighty Odle peaks. The Adolf Munkel Trail is often touted as the most beautiful of the Dolomites’ hiking trails. Hard to argue with the claim once you see its storybook setting.

Relaxing in the Dolomites — Few mountain vistas can top the Odle Group from Val di Funes.

This 3 to 4-hour hike runs through sleepy pastureland and old-growth forests allowing you to experience the wide variety of landscapes and nature adorning the Dolomites. The trail is not difficult to traverse making it a popular choice for families.

You’ll find the trailhead for the Adolf Munkel Trail at the Zanser Alm parking lot, which is about 15-minutes past the tiny Chapel of St. Johann. See our guide to visiting Val di Funes for more about this enchanting valley.

#8 The Vajolet Towers

The Rosengarten Group (also known as Catinaccio) of the Dolomites seems to spike endlessly across the horizon allowing you to admire its peaks and spires from many points in South Tyrol including Bolzano. The range is at its most stunning during sunset when afire with a red glow.

This natural phenomenon known as alpenglow or “Enrosadira”, as it is beautifully referred to in Ladin (Ladin is an ancient language still spoken in the Dolomites), inspired a legend about a dwarf king and his rose garden hence the mountain group’s name. But if you really want to appreciate the grandeur of the Rosengarten, consider hiking to the group’s most famous summits: the Vajolet Towers (also known as Torri del Vajolet and the Violet Towers).

Another famous trio of the Dolomites, the Vajolet Towers thunder skyward in Val di Tiers — a valley of pure wild-hearted beauty. The three dolomitic towers, Delago, Stabeler and Winkler (named after the first climbers to conquer their summits), reign over a surreal, barren landscape. So barren in fact, you may even wonder if you wandered through a portal to Mars on the 5-7 hour circuit.

The **Rifugio Vajolet mountain hut** is ideally located to give your legs a rest and your eyes a stunning scene before continuing on to the Vajolet Towers.

By all accounts, this is the most difficult hike on this list, which is why this corner of the Dolomites is less well known thus fewer tourists. The trek begins by taking a lift up from the Laurin Lift station in the village of Welschnofen (also known as Nova Levante) to the Rifugio Fronza (Rosengarten Hut).

How to Experience the Dolomites

The above hiking destinations are the most popular in the Dolomites for a reason. However, neither us nor anyone else can define what the best hikes in the Dolomites are for you. You have to find that out on your own.

When planning your hiking outings do not let the “fear of missing out” on a trail or sight muddle your time in the Dolomites. Cramming in destinations is a mistake. South Tyrol is a land of slow travel.

Pasta in the Italian Dolomites — Sometimes the best hike in the Dolomites is from one mountain hut to the next!

Beyond enjoying the breathtaking scenery, take the time to experience the enthralling culture of the region from its savory cuisine to its riveting history to its heart-warming traditions such as woodcarving.

If you’re like us, you may just find the best hike is each and every outing no matter where you roam.

What to Know Before Hiking in the Dolomites

Before planning your trip and embarking on hikes in the Dolomites you should know the following:

As the “best” in the Dolomites, these hiking destinations can at times be bustling with other hikers especially during the peak season of summer. Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. However, be sure to check the lift station operating schedules for any hikes requiring a cable car ride.
Weather can be unpredictable and change quickly in the Dolomites. Make sure you sport proper clothing, footwear and gear before venturing into the mountains.
Understand how to read the trail signs. Review the trail sign guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library to become comfortable with their instructions.
Consider using South Tyrol’s affordable public transportation system to hike the Dolomites in the most environmentally-friendly way possible. Buses regularly bring hikers to these destinations.
If you plan to rent a car during your trip, see our Driving in Italy guide to understand what is legally required and the rules of the road.
While you may encounter English-speaking staff at the restaurants and resorts, it’s helpful and respectful to know some basic German or Italian. You can find guides to both languages in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library mentioned above.

Dolomites Hiking Guidebook — A **Dolomites hiking guide book** is invaluable in finding the hidden gems of the Dolomites.

Creating Your Dolomites Itinerary

For every Dolomites itinerary, we recommend selecting one hiking destination per day. Each region of the Dolomites offers much more to see than these hiking routes.

In fact, consider purchasing the hiking guide: Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. It covers step-by-step directions to lesser-known trails with equally grand scenery. This book is especially helpful if you are keen on avoiding crowds while hiking.

But if you’re set on embarking on as many of these outings as possible, here are the ones you can plan together as day hikes in the Dolomites:

Tre Cime di Lavaredo & Lago di Braies – These two destinations are less than an hour apart by car.
Lago di Carezza & Vajolet Towers – Since the hiking trail at Lago di Carezza is quite short you can also trek to the Vajolet Towers on the same day. The lift station is just 10 minutes from the lake.
Seceda & Alpe di Siusi – The lifts to each destination are opposite of each other in the village of Ortisei. If you time the lifts wisely you can see the iconic sights of both.

Want help crafting your itinerary? Take advantage of our expertise with our South Tyrol Itinerary Review Service.

Where to Stay in the Dolomites

View of Sassolungo Mountain — A view to a thrill! **Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof** in Ortisei offers a spellbinding panorama of Sassolungo and Sassopiatto.

To get the most out of your holidays in the Dolomites, consider staying near the region where you will be hiking the most. From luxury resorts to mountain huts to farm stays for as little as 30-50 € per night, you will have no problem finding accommodations that fit your budget and desires. Here are recommendations for each area:

If you would like a 5-star experience while in the Dolomites, check out our detailed reviews of Romantik Hotel Turm and Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort. Both resorts will dazzle with a host of Alpine wellness amenities and treatments that perfectly complement a long day of hiking.

Additional Tips for Your Holidays in the Dolomites

No doubt the Dolomites are a tremendous draw for South Tyrol. But the Dolomites make up only part of the region’s mountain story.

In addition to your hikes in the Dolomites, consider hiking in the Italian Alps to the west where you will encounter a wonderous collision of Mediterranean and Alpine mountainscapes. See our guide to visiting South Tyrol for more about what awaits you in Italy’s best-kept secret!

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Exploring Tramin: Ancient Beauty of the Wine Road

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Tramin, Italy is a mountainside gem filled with a chill vibe and an infectious festive spirit that captures your heart all at once. Here’s how to visit this timeless wine village.

IT IS EASY to visit South Tyrol and give all of your attention to the stony giants crowding the horizons. But strolling the cobbled village streets rivering its mountainsides can do as much to instill a sense of wonder as traversing any remote rocky trail.

Especially those along South Tyrol’s Wine Road. Exploring these idyllic medieval hamlets rooted in the vine-riddled hills is like plugging into charging stations for the soul.

In this post, we uncover the romantic charms of Tramin. You’ll discover how to indulge in the village’s historic sights and jubilant traditions as well as visit the esteemed J. Hofstätter Wine Estate.

Getting to Tramin

Tramin (also known as Termeno) lies in the heart of the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Südtiroler Weinstrasse) just beyond the bright blue shimmer of Lake Caldaro. Whether coming from Bolzano to the north or Trento to the south, you can be in the village in less than 40 minutes.

As you approach, its old-world contours dawn beneath the sandy-hues of the Mendola mountain ridgeline. Soon, Tramin’s towering parish church steeple welcomes you like a signpost noting: “Tranquility this Way ⇒”. Its Gothic character lines are unmistakable amid the lush Mediterranean foothills.

Once you arrive in the village, we recommend parking near the center to set out on foot. A free lot is located off Via Mindelheim, which places you right next to the official Tramin tourist office. It pays to stop in to pick up a map as well as discover any special markets and events taking place that may be of interest during your time in South Tyrol.

Touring the Sun-Graced Treasures of Tramin

Tramin has roots thousands of years deep. Archaeological findings indicate settlements in the area as early as the time of Ötzi the Iceman.

Visiting Tramin, Italy — A veritable Eden of Italy, Tramin basks in more than 300 days of sunshine each year.

However, Tramin as a village did not come to be until the Middle Ages. This medieval history is inescapable. Narrow alleys, stone archways and windows bedecked in flowers seem to greet you at every turn — making its historic roads enchanting to wander all on their own.

But the village also holds three religious treasures not to miss. These sites are priceless in their historical significance to South Tyrol.

Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta

The Parish Church of Tramin boasts the tallest Gothic tower in South Tyrol.

Not far from the heart of Tramin is the magnificent Parish Church of St. Quirikus and Julitta. Founded in 850 AD, the church transports you to another time with intricate craftsmanship that has long since been discarded in our hurried age.

The addition of its iconic Gothic stone steeple occurred in 1492. At a height of 282 feet, it is the tallest tower of its kind in South Tyrol.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore.

Inside, you can admire Gothic frescoes depicting the martyrdom of the church’s patron saints as well as ornate altarpieces dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Joseph, St. Jacob and St. Sebastion.

The Church of St. Jakob

A bit further up the mountainside on a hilltop called Kastelaz resides another cherished historic haunt of Tramin: the quaint Church of St. Jakob. It possesses some of the most impressive and unique medieval artwork in South Tyrol.

The church’s Romanesque frescoes from the 1200s are remarkably well preserved and among the oldest in Germanic Europe. The vivid depictions are utterly fantastical in form.

St. Jakob Church in Tramin, Italy — Inconspicuous from the outside, the Church of St. Jakob is a medieval marvel seated on a supposed sacred site of Ancient Rome.

Decorating its sacred walls are nightmarish figures of skinwalkers, shapeshifters and various beasts of ancient lore. In addition, biblical characters such as the twelve apostles, Cain and Abel and a large Gothic fresco of fallen Goliath meeting his end at the hands of diminutive David grace the stone. There is simply no other church like it.

Romanesque frescoes of St. Jakob Church on Kastelaz hill — The centuries-old frescoes of St. Jakob are among the most bizarre you will ever encounter.

Outside the church, be sure to soak in the sweeping views of Tramin and Lake Caldaro. From up here, it’s easy to see why the Ancient Romans also chose this lofty location as a place of worship. According to legend, a temple to the goddess Isis once stood where the church is today.

The St. Valentin Church and Cemetery

On the southern end of Tramin directly off the South Tyrolean Wine Road stands the St. Valentin Church and cemetery. First documented in 1276, this small church requires obtaining keys from the tourist office to enter. However, if you cannot obtain them for whatever reason you can peer through windows to see its interior.

Frescoes of St. Valentin Church in Tramin

Adorning its walls are colorful frescoes in Venetian style from the late 1300s and early 1400s. Among them are a captivating Passion of the Christ and the retelling of the Legend of St. Ursula, the patron saint of educating young girls. She was sadly murdered with an arrow in 383 AD.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps.

Even if you do not tour the church, walking the St. Valentin cemetery rewards with stunning sights unfurled between stately cypress trees and sun-drenched palms.

St. Valentin Church Cemetery — The hillside church and cemetery of St. Valentin overlooks the Adige Valley basin on the edge of Tramin.

If you plan to visit the St. Valentin Church, consider driving to it either before or after you have explored Tramin’s village center. You can reach the church in a matter of minutes by car versus embarking on a somewhat lengthy trek by foot.

Discovering the Alpine Wines of J. Hofstätter

The wine of Tramin has been beloved for centuries. Books of long ago call out the potent qualities of “Traminer” wine. It was said to possess healing powers and spark passions among lovers.

Such veneration was likely referring to what we now call Gewürztraminer. This highly aromatic, spicy-sweet grape varietal was born in Tramin more than a thousand years ago. The name actually means “the spicy one from Tramin”.

Tramin, Italy Vineyards — Breathtaking scenery? Just a bit. The vineyards of Tramin encircle the village with lushness during the growing season.

By the arrival of the Middle Ages, the mountain wines of Tramin were sought after far beyond the Alps. In fact, they were of such high esteem that in the early 15th-century legendary minnesinger Oswald von Wolkenstein penned a lovesick song about Tramin wines. His lips longed for the flavor while subjected to sipping lesser vintages during his troubadouring travels.

Today, you can find Tramin’s wines sold throughout the world, but there is no better way to discover their mountain-born magic than visiting its wineries. One revered winery not to miss is J. Hofstätter. After embarking on a tasting, you too will be singing praises of the wine just like Sir Oswald.

Pioneers of Alto Adige

Rising from the cobbles of Tramin near the aforementioned Parish Church is the courtly manor of J. Hofstätter wines. Founded in 1907 by Josef Hofstätter, the estate sits on the village edge right below a vast expanse of vineyards that ripple to the summit of Kastelaz hill. Stretch your eyes further up still and you will enjoy the sight of a spruce-speckled Mt. Roen, which watches over all at a height of nearly 7,000 ft.

The winery itself consists of six levels including a wine shop, wine bar, restaurant and a cellar that is a must-see.

Now in its fourth generation, Martin Foradori Hofstätter currently oversees 124 acres making the estate one of the largest family-owned wineries in South Tyrol. Twenty-five of this acreage abounds around Tramin with additional vines grown on the slopes across the valley.

Markus Heinel of J. Hofstatter Wines — J. Hofstätter winemaker, Markus Heinel, is a talented oenologist who wears his passion for the craft on his face. His love for the vines shines through in the glass.

According to the winemaker, Markus Heinel, these vineyards sit at elevations varying between 820 and 2790 ft. This allows the J. Hofstätter estate to optimally harness a host of microclimates and soil conditions in its production.

Such diversity paired with innovation and a rare, unwavering vision to meet exacting standards has led to wines of international acclaim year after year. When it comes to producing exquisite wines, Markus made it clear, patience is more than a valued virtue at J. Hofstätter, it is mandatory.

The winery itself consists of six levels including a wine shop, wine bar, restaurant and a cellar that is a must-see. It holds fermentation tanks unlike any we have ever seen. Made of nearly eight-inch thick concrete, these cocoon-looking casks were the first of their kind in South Tyrol.

J. Hofstatter Wine Cellar — J. Hofstätter helped pioneer a more sustainable winemaking approach in Alto Adige by being the first to use concrete fermentation tanks.

Besides just being plain fun to look at, they facilitate gentle fermentation and support J. Hofstätter’s environmentally-friendly winemaking process by preserving temperatures. Markus indicated their pioneering fermentation method has since been replicated by other wineries in the region.

An Inspired Portfolio

The J. Hofstätter portfolio comprises 15 whites and 12 reds with a primary focus on five of the traditional local varieties: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Lagrein, and Vernatsch. The wines fall into one of three lines: Classic, Selection and Single-vineyard.

The Classic wines exhibit the typical varietal character of Alto Adige wines. Selection wines, on the other hand, are produced from carefully selected grapes and include a red blend and a white blend.

J. Hofstätter’s Single-vineyard wines are the pinnacle of the portfolio. They embody the winery’s most treasured vineyards and are born from grapes sourced from a single historic plot.

Markus noted these wines include the word “Vigna” on the label which certifies the wine originates from grapes ripened in single demarcated vineyards. The J. Hofstätter estate pioneered this classification setting a quality standard for premium Alto Adige wines.

Single-vineyards wines stand apart in the wine world as they represent the ultimate expression of their terroir — the defining characteristics captured from a grape varietal’s natural environment.

Tasting Tramin and Beyond

Our tasting with Markus included sampling five of J. Hofstätter’s most renowned wines.

We began with Pinot Blanc (also known as Pinot Bianco and Weissburgunder) — a star white of Alto Adige. Markus informed us the Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Noir. It is a true cool-climate grape thriving at elevations up to 2,600 ft.

J. Hofstatter’s Barthenau Vigna S. Michele Pinto Blanc originates from the winery’s Barthenau estate at an elevation of almost 1,500 ft. It was delightfully crisp and rich with delicious notes of apple, pear and almond. An elegant stunner that would do wonders on a hot summer day.

The Pinot Blanc was followed up with the estate’s Joseph Gewürztraminer from their Selection series. Markus shared that this is their textbook Gewürztraminer — showcasing all the classic attributes of the wine: full-bodied with a bright straw yellow color, a powerful aromatic character of rose petals and ginger with a vibrant and long finish.

Next, Markus poured the estate’s Single-vineyard Gewürztraminer: Kolbenhof. This deep golden beauty is made from select grapes grown in the family’s steep Kolbenhof vineyard, which is in the hamlet of Söll overlooking Tramin. It possesses an enthralling fruit intensity and aromas that win your heart before even tipping the glass to your nose. In the mouth, it was uniquely lush with a long elegant finish.

J. Hofstätter is unique in Tramin in that guests can also discover the art of viticulture.

We followed up the Gewürztraminer tasting with the winery’s selection of Pinot Nero (more commonly known as Pinot Noir). The first Pinot sampled was the Riserva Mazon. It hails from the other side of the Adige Valley on a slope known as Mazon. Grown here, the grapes benefit from a beaming evening sun and the cooling effects of the “Ora” winds bestowed from Lake Garda to the south.

The Mazon Riserva is a full-bodied, deep red elegant Pinot Nero. The wine’s extensive aging in oak barrels imparts a wild fruity aroma with a velvety smooth feel that almost massages the mouth.

Swirling J. Hofstatter Pinot Noir — Our favorite of the tasting, the Barthenau Vigna San Urbano put Italy on the map for great Pinot Noirs.

Our last wine with Markus was another Pinot Nero from the Mazon estate. This one stole the show. The Barthenau Vigna San Urbano is a darky ruby gem whose fruit-driven style with hints of vanilla and chocolate has made the Mazon estate the most celebrated vineyard for Pinot Nero in Italy.

The name of the wine pays homage to a professor who introduced the Pinot Nero variety to Alto Adige in the late 19th century. J. Hofstätter has masterfully continued this gentleman’s vision by producing a Pinot Nero that ranks among the best in the world. It truly personifies the attributes that make wine from Alto Adige so special.

Visiting J. Hofstätter Wine Estate

Besides being a destination to enjoy delicious wines, J. Hofstätter is unique in Tramin in that guests can also discover the age-old art of viticulture. The estate’s Show Vine Garden flourishes with Gewürztraminer vines where you can witness how vintners tend to the vineyard from morning until dark.

Hofstatter Winery Tour — J. Hofstätter offers guided excursion through three of its picturesque vineyards.

In addition, the winery offers vineyard and cellar tours if booked in advance. Both include expert-led tastings that give you an intimate understanding of the special characteristics of J. Hofstätter’s wines.

The wine shop, bar and restaurant open and close at various times. But no matter when you visit Tramin, you should have no problem finding time to make the J. Hofstätter Wine Estate a part of your experience.

Reveling in Tradition

If you can time your visit to Tramin during one of its many annual events, you will be immersed in a thrilling cultural experience. These lively celebrations may even leave you feeling more festive than polishing off a bottle of its wines.

Wine lovers will definitely find revelry swirling about during the annual Tramin Wine Lane. This fall celebration occurs on a Saturday in late October beginning in the early afternoon until midnight.

The festival takes place in the alleys of Tramin allowing you to sample a variety of locally produced wines while nibbling on roasted chestnuts and other seasonal delights. As you wander the alleys, you’ll encounter local groups performing traditional Tyrolean music and dance.

Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more.

If you have never watched such performances, enjoying them in the old world atmosphere of Tramin is especially fascinating. The spirit of the event is infectious and will no doubt create a lasting fond memory of your time in South Tyrol. For more information on the Tramin Wine Lane, check out the event’s official page.

Traditional Men's Tyrolean Dance — Care to dance? Traditional Tyrolean dances ensue up and down the main alley of Tramin during its annual Wine Lane event.

Every other year during February is another unique event of Tramin known as the Egetmann Parade. This Carnival celebration occurs on Fat Tuesday and attracts thousands of spectators.

The parade has a long history in Tramin with records indicating it occurring as far back as 1591. We have yet to participate in this notorious raucous custom, but have heard it can be loud and brash with a good measure of harmless naughtiness flung from the floats. Certainly a rousing tradition not to be missed if you are in South Tyrol in February.

Besides these events, Tramin regularly hosts a number of fun cultural gatherings from culinary festivals to concerts and more. To see a list of current happenings while planning your visit, scroll through Tramin’s event page.

Where to Stay

Beyond the sights and activities we covered above, Tramin is a biker’s paradise offering pedaling adventures through truly epic Mediterranean scenery crowned with Alpine vistas. With Mt. Roen looming over Tramin, hikers and bikers have plenty of elevation to explore as well.

Such an abundance of South Tyrolean goodness all in one area makes Tramin a great town to stay in. The uber-modern Hotel Traminerhof is conveniently located within walking distance of the village’s heart. Not only does the hotel allow easy access to all of Tramin’s charms, but it also caters to bikers with guided tours and provides all the amenities to immerse yourself in the benefits of Alpine wellness.

Weingut Dona Winery — Interested in knowing more about South Tyrol’s wine culture? Stay on the South Tyrolean Wine Road at small family-owned wineries like **Weingut Donà.**

If you’re looking for a dash of romance, consider staying along the South Tyrolean Wine Road at a boutique winery. Donà Winery (Weingut Donà in German), is a lovely family-owned estate placing you the in middle of vineyards tumbling beneath one of South Tyrol’s most spectacular castle ruins. The winery’s location is ideal for visiting Tramin and other sights along the Wine Road.

Unearthing Ancient Secrets – Encounters with Ötzi the Iceman

By Kate & Vin 13 Comments

It’s not every day you come face to face with a man who is 5,300 years old. It’s even rarer to get an interview with him. But through the wizardry of a Ouija board, endless billows of incense and ample pours of South Tyrolean wine we were able to go for a hike in the spirit world with Ötzi the Iceman.

If his name doesn’t ring a bell, you may have been entombed in a block of ice the last 28 years. In 1991, a couple of hikers stumbled on a sight only an archaeologist would love to see. Ötzi’s partial corpse surfaced from a melting glacier located at 10,530 feet in the Ötztal Alps of South Tyrol. At the time, it was thought he may have been a soldier from one of the world wars, but it was soon discovered he was a much, much older warrior.

This riveting interview reveals facts on Ötzi the Iceman in a way you will not find anywhere else. We found him to be pleasant, a bit gruff and a character with an Ice Age-size sense of humor.

In the end, we dive into how you can visit Ötzi in Bolzano. If you want to speak with him yourself, we can make that happen too. For a small fee and a couple of cases of Lagrein we will gladly serve as your spiritual medium.

From the Lips of Ötzi

Without further ado, here’s our candid conversation with the coolest man to ever walk Earth:

Throne & Vine: You have been “free” from your icy tomb for almost 30 years now. That must have been liberating after thousands of years.

Ötzi: To be honest, my situation isn’t much different today than it was 10,000+ feet up the mountain. Although I have to say Bolzano is a lovely town. It’s amazing when you think about it, but when they discovered my body, new technologies had to be invented to continue my preservation. I am now kept in a specially designed, ice-freezing cold chamber that mimics the climatic conditions of the glacier where I was found. The temperature of the chamber is kept precisely at a frosty 21.2 °F (-6°C ) with 99% humidity. Two other cold chambers with the same design also exist.

Throne & Vine: Wait a second, why do you need two additional chambers?

Ötzi: One additional chamber is for performing scientific research on my mummified body. The other is located at the Bolzano hospital. In the event, there was some unforeseen power failure at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, I could be rushed to the hospital to be “saved”. Which is kind of ironic since I am already dead.

Throne & Vine: Ah yes, that is a funny way to look at it. Your mummified body is the oldest ever found in Europe. How did it manage to survive for so long?

Ötzi: I like to think I had something to do with it, but to be frank the only reason my body is still around is pure luck. You see before dying I keeled over into a small gully bordered by massive boulders. It was snowing at the time so I was soon buried under a blanket of white. As the centuries turned, the Niederjoch Glacier crept over the gully entombing me in ice. Unbelievably, the boulders protected my body from being pummeled.

The discovery site of Otzi — The discovery site of Ötzi in 1991 (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

Throne & Vine: Scientists have determined you lived somewhere between 3239-3107 B.C. during the late Neolithic period. Are there any trends from back then that are still with us today?

Ötzi: Absolutely! That period gave rise to several notable innovations. For example, the wheel. It was invented in Slovenia, which is not too far from South Tyrol.

Throne & Vine: What about cuisine? Any dishes that are still popular?

Ötzi: Being that we did not have any grocery stores back in the day, we had to hunt and gather everything we ate. That meant a steady diet of red deer, wild goat and porridge made from grains. In fact, the hour before my murder I devoured some ibex meat. Travelers today can still savor this wild game and more when visiting mountain huts in South Tyrol. You’ll love it!

Throne & Vine: Um you said you were murdered? Care to elaborate?

Ötzi: I can’t say much per my legal team until the investigation is officially over, but yes I was slain with an arrow through my back. The arrowhead struck with such a force it broke my left shoulder. I bled out in a matter of minutes.

A few days earlier, I was involved in an altercation. A spirited scrap you could say. One that resulted in a deep cut in my right hand. A couple of hard blows on my noggin and a fracture to my left eye socket. If I had to guess, the lethal arrow came from the bow of that fella. That’s just speculation of course.

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: What kind of tools and weapons did you have to defend yourself against enemies and the elements?

Ötzi: Well I was always good with my fists, but you’d have to be a fool to trek through the Alps then without a survival kit. On my belt, I kept a flint stone dagger and the oldest medicine kit ever found.

Throne & Vine: You had a medicine kit?

Ötzi: That’s right. You see at the time of my death I was battling several ailments. Not a surprise really given I was in my mid-forties, which was quite old at the time.

One of the more annoying ailments I suffered was intestinal parasites. Nasty little buggers known as whipworms. I kept a couple of pieces of birch fungus threaded through strips of hide. Our ancestors knew this fungus was quite toxic to the whipworms so I ingested it as necessary.

Otzi X-Ray Display — The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology includes a touchscreen display that visually presents fascinating facts on Ötzi.

Throne & Vine: What else did you bring on your journey?

Ötzi: My most prized possession was my copper-bladed axe. Until it was found next to my corpse, no one believed we had developed the skills yet to forge such a beauty. It’s 99% pure copper. A true masterpiece in metalwork and the only one of its kind left in the world.

The copper came from hundreds of miles away in a region called Tuscany. The blade was cast in a mold and hammered into cutting shape. I then fixed it to a wooden shaft, carved from a yew tree, using leather straps and tar to hold it in place. It was still intact when discovered.

The copper used the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions. — The copper blade used in the axe of Ötzi came from Tuscany indicating an active trading practice between populations of different regions.

Since copper axes were rare and valuable in my time, only held by men of high status, it’s puzzling as to why my murderer didn’t snatch it after felling me. Seems like a clue the investigators should consider.

I also carried with me a longbow, arrows and a quiver. The bow was crafted from a yew tree as well. She was a work in progress though. Was really hoping to her have done before trekking up Similaun mountain. Perhaps you’d be talking with a different “Iceman” today if that was the case. Anywho, the bow was taller than me to allow for shots up to 150 feet away. I’m 5′ 2″ tall and the bow ran 5’9″. My quiver held 14 arrows in total, but only two were finished.

The quiver was made from the hide of a roe deer and the arrows from viburnum wood. Like my dagger, the arrowheads were made of flint. Speaking of my dagger, you can actually purchase a killer replica of it. The Ötzi knife makes a great gift for the hunter or history lover in your life. Sorry for the shameless plug.

By the way, among the most important items I carried was fire.

Throne & Vine: How does one carry fire? Assume you didn’t have matches.

Ötzi: No matches. I had something better. I made a round container by rolling the bark of a birch tree. Inside, I kept charcoal embers wrapped in maple leaves from my last fire. The leaves kept the embers alive so to speak. Whenever I needed a fire to stay warm or to cook meat all I had to do was fan the embers. In a matter of seconds, I had a flame.

Throne & Vine: The weather in the Alps can be unforgiving. How else did you stay warm? What did you wear for clothing?

Ötzi: Well I was quite a fashionable man back in the day. What you might consider a “lumbersexual” today. The difference being I actually know how to use an axe. My attire came from multiple animals. This prevented me from getting cold and wet.

On my head, I sported a bearskin cap that I won in an arm wrestling match. My coat ran down to my knees and consisted of sheep and goat hides stitched together with animal tendons.

Otzi bearskin hat — The bearskin cap found near the body of Ötzi. It included chin straps to secure it against high mountain winds (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology).

My legs were also covered in sheep and goat hides supported by a calfskin belt. Instead of underwear, I wore a loincloth made from sheep hide and kept together by my belt.

Throne & Vine: Did you have any kind of special footwear?

Ötzi: I certainly did. I wore primitive shoes consisting of deer hide stitched to the outside of netting made from lime tree bast. I stuffed grass under the netting for warmth. When my feet got wet, I just replaced the grass. The sole of my feet walked on the soft fur of the deer hide. I secured the shoes to each foot using string.

Throne & Vine: We heard you also sport several tattoos. Is there a story behind them?

Ötzi: Yeah my body is riddled with tattoos. I lost count, but supposedly scientists found 61 on my corpse. These had nothing to do with looking cool or tough. My bearskin cap does that on its own. My tattoos were for therapeutic purposes. Many of them are located near my joints such as my wrist and ankles. Back then we treated tattooing as an early form of acupuncture.

A scientist examining Otzi. — A scientist examining the body of Ötzi (South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology/EURAC/Samadelli/Staschitz).

Each tattoo I received was to soothe my chronic pain. The tattoos were made by cutting a straight line into my skin followed by rubbing charcoal into the incision.

Throne & Vine: A major motion picture was recently released re-imagining your life and death. What are your thoughts on it?

Ötzi: Loved it! The movie “Iceman” is a spectacle all should see. Sure Hollywood takes some liberties with my story, but the settings and costumes are spot on when it comes to showing what life was like 5,300 years ago. My only gripe is that Brad Pitt should have played me. We share the same tattoos after all.

Throne & Vine: What is it like to be one of the greatest scientific discoveries of all time?

Ötzi: I’d prefer to have never been found. When glaciers melt, the world changes.

Otzi & Ibex — Weapons found near Ötzi indicate he was an avid hunter. His last meal was ibex. Consumed just hours before his death.

Throne & Vine: Point taken. We’ve heard you called Ötzi the Iceman, Frozen Fritz and even Similaun Man. Do you have a favorite?

Ötzi: Any of those are fine. Doubt anyone could pronounce my real name. And I don’t have a clue how to spell it.

Throne & Vine: What else do you want people to know about you?

Ötzi: I love getting visitors. Everyone visiting South Tyrol needs to come by the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano. My body and belongings are there for all to see, as well as exhibits detailing more about my life, death and discovery. You can stand eye-to-eye with me thanks to an incredibly detailed 3D model of what I looked like thousands of years ago. The museum also covers how modern science has unearthed all of my secrets so far. But I promise I still hold more (gives a good belly laugh).

Throne & Vine: We can’t agree more. All should take the time to see the museum. Do you have any final words for our readers?

Ötzi: Yeah, stay frosty…like me.

How to Visit Ötzi the Iceman

Seeing Ötzi at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology should be a part of your day when visiting Bolzano. More than 5 million people from all over the world have walked through the museum since its opening in 1998.

The museum is world class immersing you into the world of Ötzi through novel displays and multimedia exhibits. Plan on 1-2 hours to walk through the museum.

When you reach the window to peer into Ötzi, the sight of his actual mummified body is exhilarating and humbling at the same time. We came away with a new perspective on the history of mankind.

See Ötzi up close at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano.

The displays include English descriptions so you will not have to muscle through deciphering German or Italian phrases if that is a concern. The museum also houses other fascinating findings revealing a complete archaeological history of South Tyrol.

Like all of Bolzano’s stunning sights, it’s easy to reach the museum on foot. It is near the historic heart of Bolzano off Museumstraße street just past the famous Piazza delle Erbe — a centuries-old outdoor marketplace full of fresh goodness.

We highly recommend a guided tour as you will undoubtedly have questions about Ötzi that arise as you go through the museum. To ensure one is available, you will need to make a tour reservation request in advance.

If you decide not to participate in a guided tour, we still recommend purchasing your tickets online before visiting the museum.

Another adventure you may want to consider while in South Tyrol is hiking to the glacier where Ötzi was discovered.

PIN TO SAVE ÖTZI TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD!

We like to give special thanks to Selita Corradini for leading us on an exceptional tour of the Ötzi exhibit. Her enthusiasm for Ötzi is contagious!

Forest of the Fallen – Brunico’s Moving Tribute to the Soldiers of World War I

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

“I am young, I am twenty years old; yet I know nothing of life but despair, death, fear, and fatuous superficiality cast over an abyss of sorrow. I see how peoples are set against one another, and in silence, unknowingly, foolishly, obediently, innocently slay one another.”

WORDS, ONCE ONLY APPARITIONS in our minds, were now suddenly flesh and blood. Each step we took summoned another line from Erich Maria Remarque’s “All Quiet on the Western Front”. Each turn, another face haunting in the forest.

But we were in much more than a forest.

All around us stood grave markers.

Not of stone, but of timber.

Wooden crosses fashioned in pacifying poses silently spoke to us. Bronze plates with forgings of “1915”, “1916”, “1917” and “1918” conjured images of war. German names along with tattered photographs whispered stories into our minds. Wishes and dreams of young men longing to be told, but never to be heard.

What is this place of somber beauty we wondered? Minutes earlier we were gazing up in awe at the medieval markings of a 13th-century castle. And then on a whim decided to cross a nearby footbridge to a hill shrouded in pine and firs. Here, we trekked up a steep set of stairs. At the top, a forested slope unfolded before us revealing a cemetery unlike any we have ever seen.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness.

A grey monument resting on the hill’s crest held the answer. Inscribed on sable panes were the names of those buried. Next to this list of the fallen, we found the story of the ‘Soldier Cemetery’.

War on the Rooftop of the World

Soldiers climbing the Dolomites during World War I — Soldiers scaling a cliff in the Dolomites during WWI. (Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institution)

Fighting a war anywhere is hell. Fighting one in the unforgiving heights of the Dolomites is utterly unthinkable. Yet, during the First World War, its crags and crevices saw thousands of soldiers lost to the madness of mankind and more still to the fury only born on mountains. The warring conditions on the rooftop of the world were among the most treacherous ever endured in the history of warfare. If bullets or shell-fire didn’t tear you asunder, the mountain’s pummeling snow, hellish winds and crashing boulders would.

Brunico (also known as Bruneck) in South Tyrol was home to several wartime hospitals. Those injured battling on the front lines of the Dolomites received care here. Many did not make it out alive. Too many. When the local cemetery could no longer support the dead, a new one was founded on this hill in Brunico known as Kühbergl.

An Austrian Lieutenant Colonel, A. Bechtold, developed the vision for the Soldier Cemetery. For the men who suffered horrors on the summits, he sought to bring them final peace within the mossy velvet of the forest floor.

The cemetery was built by Russian prisoners of war. Logs from stands of pine became the grave markers — forever memorializing the fallen in harmony with the stillness of the forest.

Resting in Quiet Rapture

One-hundred years ago this past year, the last shot of the First World War rang out. At 11 am on the eleventh day in the eleventh month of 1918, Germany signed an armistice bringing the war to an end. Upon receiving the news, soldiers simply laid down their arms and went home.

The toll? 37 million dead.

669 lie in the Soldier Cemetery. They are soldiers from the Austro-Hungarian empire, as well as Russia, Serbia and Romania. Just 20 years later, the world would spiral into another war taking the lives of 50 million more. Nineteen German soldiers killed in bombing raids from the Second World War are also at rest in the cemetery.

In a solemn act of respect for the men, the cemetery dedicated sections to the respective faiths of the soldiers. Men of Christian, Jewish and Muslim faith lay separate but together. These brothers fighting for pieces of the earth now share it in quiet rapture as their home.

Caretakers of the Deep Wood Light

As we continued walking through the cemetery, we came across a few women tending to the graves. We learned they are members of an association of women that has kept each grave in pristine form since 1921.

Watching them work was as moving as the cemetery itself. In silence, they carefully placed evergreen branches and other favors from the forest throughout the resting places. These beautiful deep wood adornments evoked an even more serene feeling to our timbered surroundings.

Soldier Cemetery Caretaker in Bruneck — Since 1921, an association of women has given their time to maintain and beautify the cemetery.

The manner in which South Tyroleans still reverently care for those lost long ago is touching to witness. Whether encountering a meticulously carved wayside shrine off a hiking trail or rows of crosses masterfully wrought out of iron in quaint, candlelit Alpine churchyards, the traditions of this land inspire awe. Taking time to reflect in such moments requires no belief in the divine to enjoy the beauty of humanity.

How to Visit the Soldier Cemetery of Brunico

A visit to the medieval town of Brunico is an easy trip add-on before or after a trek around Lago di Braies. While in Brunico, a walk through the Soldier Cemetery is a must. Every lover of nature and history will find it an enchanting sight.

The town offers you a few ways to reach the cemetery. From the grounds of the Bruneck Castle walk to the south castle wall and continue down a small slope to a footbridge. Cross over the road (Via Riscone) to the Kühbergl hill. Then follow the path to the right for a bit until you come to a set of stairs leading uphill. The cemetery sits at the top of the steps.

A footbridge near Bruneck Castle — Near Bruneck Castle lies a footbridge that leads you to the Soldier Cemetery.

Additional options to visiting the cemetery include two parking lots directly off Via Riscone. If you choose either one, you’ll have to walk uphill even more, but neither path is difficult.

No matter how you choose to visit, keep an eye out for signposts indicating ‘Cimitero di Guerra’ and ‘Kriegerfriedhof’ to ensure you’re heading the right direction.

Capturing the Soldier Cemetery with your camera is a heartrending experience no matter when you visit, but please be courteous to anyone there paying respect to those lost.

We are honored this post was recognized by Traverse Creator Awards with a “Best Storytelling Award”. The ability to discover the amazing history of South Tyrol while exploring all of its natural splendor is a gift we do not take for granted. Our hope is to inspire all who visit to take the time to get to know the history of the land and its people.

Helpful Italian Phrases for Your Travels

By Kate & Vin 2 Comments

Part of the beauty of South Tyrol is its delicious blend of Austrian and Italian cultural influences. While the majority of locals speak German as their first language, many South Tyroleans are bilingual. This is immediately evident as you encounter signs in German and Italian upon entering the region.

You certainly do not need to know either language to visit South Tyrol; however, your trip will be more rewarding by becoming a little familiar with either one. If you like the sip-easy sound of the Italian language over the harsh swig of German dialect, this article is for you. We cover the basics, as well as give you useful Italian travel phrases.

Not sure if you should choose to learn German or Italian? Here’s a quick word test using a traditional South Tyrolean delight — Fresh goat cheese in bacon crust. Do your best to speak each of the following:

Ziegenfrischkäse im Speckmantel
Caprino in crosta di Speck

Which one rolled off the tongue easier? If it was the first, you might prefer bratwurst over pizza and may want to head over to our helpful German phrases article.

Insider Tip: Before reading any further we’d like to point out that you can access a PDF of the Key Italian Phrases Guide and our German Phrases Guide in our FREE South Tyrol Travel Resources Library. We made it handy to print out or keep on your tablet or phone while traveling.

Don’t Be Brad Pitt – The Basics of Italian Pronunciation

Before diving into key Italian phrases it’s helpful to have a grasp on proper pronunciation. This will come in handy when running into specialties listed on a menu or when meeting someone, for example. After all, you don’t want to come off a like Brad Pitt when saying goodbye to your new Italian friends.

Here are some basic guidelines:

“A” is pronounced like the a in water
“I” like the “ee” in feet
“U” like the “oo” in boot
“C” before “i” or “e” is pronounced like a “ch”
“G” before an “i” or “e” like the “g” in “giraffe”
“H” is silent
“R” is almost always rolled…and almost always fun to say!
“Z” like the “ds” in “ads” at the beginning of the sentence, and like the “ts” in tents everywhere else
“Gli” sounds like the “lli” in billion, which sounds like “yee”
In general, the emphasis is on the second-to-last syllable (i.e. “Arrivederci” is “ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee”). This stress helps give the Italian language its poetic cadence
If the last letter of the word has an accent symbol, the emphasis is likely on the last syllable (i.e. perché is pear-kEH)

Saying Hello & Goodbye in Italian

Now that you know the basic pronunciation, here are a handful of greetings you may hear or can use when interacting with the locals or travelers from Italy:

Benvenuto (Ben ven uto) – Welcome
Buongiorno (Bwohn journo) – Good morning or good day. Typically used until late afternoon
Buona sera (Bwohn ah say rah) – Good evening.
Buona notte (Bwohn ah nau-tay) – Good night. Use when saying goodbye at night
Ciao (chow) – A common way to informally say hello or goodbye at any time of day
Salve (sahl vey) – The polite, formal way to say hello. Can be used any time of day
Arrivederci (ah-ree-vah-dair-chee) – The formal way to say goodbye

Simple Conversations in Italian

After starting a dialogue, you may want to inform the person that you speak a little Italian.

I understand a little Italian: “Io capisco un po l’Italiano” (EE-oh kah-PEES-koh oon poh lee-TAH-lyah-noh)

If you do not want to attempt any conversation in Italian, let the person know you do not speak any Italian.

I don’t speak Italian: “Non parlo Italiano” (non PAR-lo Italiano)

Then, you would want to follow this by asking them if they speak English.

Do you speak English?: “Parla Inglese?”(PAR-la ee-GLAY-zay)

If the person responds “No”, they do in fact mean “No”. “Yes” in Italian, on the other hand, is “Si” (see).

While in Italy you should know how to ask where something is located. Nothing is more important when nature calls and you are in the middle of a castle tour that is entirely in Italian. True story. Best told over vino (wine).

Where is?: “Dove’?” (doe VEH)
Where is the bathroom?: “Dove’ il bagno?” (doe VEH eel BHAN-yo).
Note: If you’re in a panic situation and these words evade you, trying yelling “Aiuto!” (I u-toh), which means “Help!”. Once help arrives, of the course the right thing to do is offer a “thank you”: “grazie” (GRAT-zee-yay)
Where is a restaurant?”: “Dove’ un ristorante?”(doe VEH oon rees toh-RAHN-tay)
Where is the main train station?”: Dove’ la stazione centrale?” (doe VEH lah stah-zee-oh-neh sen-trah-lay)
Where is the cable car?: “Dove’ la funivia?” (doe VEH lah foo-nih-vee-a)

Additional helpful Italian words and phrases include:

Quanto costa?: How much does it cost?
Per favore: Please
Prego: You’re welcome
Mi chiamo…: My name is…
Come ti chiami: What is your name?
Chi: Who?
Quando: When?
Cosa: What?
Perché: Why?
Destra (right), sinistra (left), dritto (straight)
Vicino (close), lontano (far)

Getting from Point A to Point B in Italian

When you’re traveling around South Tyrol or if arriving into other cities like Milan, Verona or Venice first, you’ll likely need to look for specific places or forms of transportation. Here are some of the most common terms you may need while on your adventure:

Arrivo: Arrival
Partenza: Departure
Programma: Schedule
Stazione ferroviari: Train station
Treno: Train
Quanto costa il biglietto: How much is the ticket?
Macchina: Car. Also known as auto
Noleggio auto: Car rental
Funivia: Cable car
Autobus: Bus
Aeroporto: Airport
Taxi: Taxi
Parcheggio: Parking
Cantina: Winery
Banca: Bank. Be sure to ask for a bancomat if you’re looking for an ATM
Mercato del contadino: Farmer’s market
Farmacia: Pharmacy
Ospedale: Hospital
Panetteria: Bakery
Polizia: Police
Museo: Museum
Castello: Castle
Chiesa: Church
Uffico del Turismo: Office of Tourism
Supermercato: Grocery
Piazza: Town Square

Hopefully, you’re able to avoid getting sick while traveling, but if not keep an eye out for signs indicating “Farmacia” and “Ospedale”.

Telling Time in Italian

Knowing how to tell time in Italy will really only be useful if you forget your watch or if your smartphone dies. In that case, this highly-instructional video shows you how to accurately ascertain the time when roaming the Italian countryside.

Che ore sono?: “What time is it?”

Know Your Numbers in Italian

Once you’ve made your way to the supermercato, panetteria or cantina, knowing numbers in Italian helps understand prices, order quantities, etc.

uno (1)
due (2)
tre (3)
quattro (4)
cinque (5)
sei (6)
sette (7)
otto (8)
nove (9)
dieci (10)
undici (11)
dodici (12)
tredici (13)
quattordici (14)
quindici (15)
seidici (16)
diciassette (17)
diciotto (18)
diciannove (19)
venti (20)
venticinque (25)
cinquanta (50)
settanta cinque (75)
cento (100)

Ordering Food & Drink in Italian

When visiting Italian-speaking places like South Tyrol, the last thing you want to struggle with is ordering food and drink. An Italian adventure without being able to fully savor its culinary treasures is what nightmares are made of. Here are some drinks you may wish to order:

vino: wine
vino bianco: white wine
vino rosso: red wine
birra: beer
acqua: water
caffè: coffee
latte: milk (If you are visiting South Tyrol, the milk from its traditional Alpine farmers is a must-try. Learn more in 12 Things to Know Before Visiting South Tyrol.)

Here are some Italian phrases that will help you while dining in Italy:

[Un] vino bianco per favore: One white wine please
[Tre] vini rossi per favore: Three red wines please

Note: Replace vini rossi with vino rosso for a single glass of red wine.

[Quattro] birra per favore: Four beers please

Note: Replace uno with una for a single glass of beer.

[Un] caffe con latte per favore: One coffee with milk please
Tavolo per [due] per favore: Table for two please
A che ora chiudete?: What time do you close?
A che ora apri?: What time do you open?
Hai un menu?: Do you have a menu?
Posso vedere la lista dei vini per favore?: Can I see the wine list please?
Quanto costa?: How much does it cost?
Quanto le devo?: How much do I owe?
Puoi scriverlo per favore?: Can you please write that down?
Posso avere il conto per favore?: Can I have the bill please?
Posso pagare in contanti?: May I pay with cash?
Posso pagare con la carta di credito?: May I pay with credit card?

If you’re traveling all the way to Italy, there’s a good chance you’ll treat yourself to gelato. To make sure you’re ready, we highly recommend checking out the Lazy Italian’s post specifically dedicated to the art of ordering gelato. Enjoying an authentic pizza is equally likely to be top of mind during your trip. ITALY magazine has a nice piece on what you can expect when ordering pizza.

Additional Italian Language Resources

Coffee Break Italian Podcast: This podcast has free and members-only versions. While there are additional bonus materials available to members, the free podcast is exceptional. Out of the three resources we mention here, this is the most beneficial for travel in Italian-speaking regions. Another advantage to this podcast is that the hosts provide details on grammar, cultural nuggets, review past lessons and break down the language. If you do not have any Italian language experience, we recommend starting with episode 1.
Duolingo: Duolingo is a fun and easy way to begin learning Italian. It requires 5 minutes a day. Not only does Duolingo provide lessons, but you can engage in short, situational chats to practice responses. As you progress, Duolingo provides a percentage fluency score that helps to see how well you are progressing.
Pimsleur Italian Language Program: Older versions of the audiobooks are usually available at public libraries and are a great way to learn a language during your commute. Depending on your skill level, there are a variety of programs you can select. The program is also available on Audible.

We’ve learned that the most important part of learning a new language is not to judge yourself too harshly or to take yourself too seriously. Sure you may get frustrated, but just remind yourself that you’re on vacation after all.

You’re going to make mistakes and sound silly. Everyone does. Learning a new language is very challenging, so be patient with yourself. Keep in mind that most Italians are just as self-conscious and apologetic for their English as you are for your Italian.

TAP TO SAVE FOR LATER!

The Tappeiner Promenade – Italy’s Most Enchanting Walk

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

Imagine breezing lazily by dramatic Alpine scenery that tumbles into lush Mediterranean landscapes ripe with vineyards, orchards and palms — all held under the spell of castles, spires and the wooing Italian sun.

Sound tempting? Welcome to the Tappeiner Promenade in Merano, Italy.

This South Tyrolean jewel is blessed from mountain peak to mountain peak with so much rich history and natural splendor you could meander from dusk to dawn never tiring of its beauty.

In this post, we show you how to enjoy the Tappeiner Promenade from beginning to end. As you’ll see, whether visiting in spring, summer or fall, walking the promenades of Merano ravishes your senses no matter the season.

In fact, we found our first stroll so enchanting, we return time and time again. We bet you’ll do the same.

Settling in Merano

Merano famously basks in 300-days of sunshine a year, but a rainy mist greeted us on our first visit. October clouds hung stubbornly low in the afternoon sky.

However, this unexpected gloom did not dampen the sight of Hotel Partaneshof, our home for the next few days. Its inviting chalet-like character would have charmed us even in a storm.

Hotel Garni Partaneshof in Merano — The balcony of **Hotel Partaneshof** gave us a front-row seat to an autumn sky set ablaze by the sun.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offered us an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona earlier in the week.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of wine from the Partaneshof cellar. After traveling a better part of the day, unwinding with a South Tyrolean wine sounded better than unpacking.

Our room came with a balcony bestowing a wide-open view of the Texel Mountains. We lounged back in chairs and savored the panorama over a glass of Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). If there was a better place to sit and ponder how to spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was perfect.

Hotel Partaneshof in Merano — Settling in Merano with wine, views and a Cuban.

Prior to arriving, we read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade — a popular 2.5-mile path offering sweeping views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures posted, we agreed. Besides, a long, carefree walk amid the Italian Alps was a natural remedy after a day hunkered in a car.

Finding the Tappeiner Promenade

In the morning, a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast of mountain-born cold cuts, freshly baked bread and yogurt topped with local berries met a quick end at our table. While it was tempting to linger in the sunlight pouring over the terrace, the desire to explore kept us moving.

We were uncertain how to begin our walk on the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running north above Merano along the face of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know the path loomed several hundred feet upslope from our hotel.

The map noted multiple places to enter the promenade, but Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town. Taking this route would allow us to experience nearly all of Merano’s promenades. She suggested first roaming the Passer Promenade then crossing the Passer River to the Summer Promenade. From there, connecting with the Gilf Promenade and finally Tappeiner.

The Passer Promenade – A Regal River Walk

The Evangelical Church of Christ rests next to the Passer River.

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River reveling along the Passer Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of the year but is especially delightful in the winter when its sunny exposure washes away the chill.

The first architectural marvel we came across was the Evangelical Church of Christ. Built in 1883, its spire storms into the sky like a mountain peak all its own. But even more impressive was the grove of giant birch trees arching over the bastion of beautifully chiseled stone.

We continued on past processions of palm trees, flower beds and bustling riverside cafes until encountering another masterpiece of Merano — the Kurhaus. The largest Art Nouveau building in Alps, the Kurhaus arose in the 1800s as a venue for aristocratic mingling.

Kurhaus in Merano — The Kurhaus crowns the Passer promenade before the Ponte della Posta bridge.

Today, it hosts concerts in addition to an array of cultural events from wine tastings to conventions. The ornate details and tall portico columns paint a vivid picture of what Merano must have been like when royals held sway over the land.

Just beyond the Kurhaus, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. Together, the light posts mark the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, a bridge beautified with a wrought-iron balustrade showcasing sunlit fleur de lis and grapevine motifs.

We crossed the bridge, pausing to appreciate the roving fury of the river from both sides. Once across, we spotted the Summer Promenade beginning to our left.

But before venturing down it, the austere face of the 15th century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito caught our curiosity. Its bleak exterior amid the spectacle of Merano lured us in for a brief visit.

Church of Santo Spirito in Merano — Rebuilt in 1483 after being ravished by a flood, the Church of Santo Spirito is a Gothic relic inside and out.

Inside, three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes reverently conceived more than 700 years ago. These precious historical treasures lit by candle flame hauntingly held our gaze. We always find such places possessing alluring energy — where past and present harmonize in a timeless stillness.

The church was first built in 1271 by the will of Count Mainardo II, a ruler often regarded as the true founder of Tyrol. A flooding Passer river destroyed it in 1419, but the church was rebuilt in 1483 in its present conformation.

The Summer Promenade – The Footsteps of an Empress

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”.

Empress Sissi Statue — A beauty for the ages. The statue of Sissi welcomes you at the start of the Summer Promenade.

Empress Elisabeth was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliffside.

Sissi adored Merano. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. An early pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was cherished by Sissi. Thus it’s fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk.

While the Passer Promenade bathed us in heavenly sunlight the Summer Promenade’s soaring sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into the forested realm.

Under the canopy, nature put on a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leaves. As we walked, the path gently sloped closer to the Passer. The river splashed rhythmically over rocks joining a choir of birds lost in song.

Across the Ponte Romano

The Summer Promenade is not long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the mighty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

Ponte Romano Bridge in Merano — The mighty stonework of the 400-year-old Ponte Romano Bridge carries you to the Gilf Promenade.

We paused midway to again admire the river roaring underneath. On the right side, a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge.

Forged in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned. But don’t fret. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another fortress to visit is far from difficult.

The Gilf Promenade – Awash in Lushness

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Passer and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward.

But before making the ascent, we took time to watch kayakers brave the icy waters below. Their deftness in negotiating the torrent of boulders bordered on mystifying.

Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The abundance of greenery around us was like walking into an open-air conservatory.

The morning’s dew under the sun illuminated untold luxuriant subtropical plants, sweetly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. It was quite clear. The Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudest from the Gilf Promenade.

We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliffside.

After soaking in the sight, we walked on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork of an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

The Tappeiner Promenade – Serene Beauty Above Merano

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and the chain of snow-kissed mountains grasping the sky from the valley floor.

The promenade was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. His vision is a gift to visitors today. Immaculately manicured flower gardens litter the entire promenade amid stands of giant magnolias, cypresses, olive trees, palmettos and more. A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

In addition to the breathtaking vistas riddled between the verdant veils, the Tappeiner Promenade offered us more remarkable sights as we ventured on.

We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steals a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

The first was a crenelated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements, commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

Admiring the Steeple of St. Nicholas Church

We continued along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steal a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired at many points throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. We could discern details of its intricate clock and sundial.

St. Nicholas Church from the Tappeiner Promenade — The tower of the Church of St. Nicholas possesses such a lustrous presence that if the sun refused to shine, it would not surprise us if light still fell upon Merano.

From our experience, many medieval towers exhibit a similar look, but the Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. The exquisite vision, craftsmanship and artistry it took to build the church in the 13th and 14th century make it a medieval treasure to behold.

After several snap-happy moments with our camera, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels, stately villas and restaurants offering enticing seats to absorb the surroundings.

A Gathering of Scents

On many occasions along the promenades of Merano, we encountered savory scents from roses to grapes to pine. But the Kräutergarten (herb garden) dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Tucked just below the Tappeiner Promenade, the garden is flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants woven into the landscape.

We floated through inhaling rosemary, thyme and other exotic aromas. The fragrant beds were calming; slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine with us. If there’s one place where you should linger longer in South Tyrol, it is on this walk.

Leafy Labyrinths

Eventually, the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grapevines now surrounded us from above and below.

Unlike the cliche image of Italian vineyards stiffly spanning rolling fields, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades, made from rustic porticos with only the foliage of the vine visible.

Tappeiner Promenade Cedar Tree — Vneyards, trees, flora and views greet your every step on the Tappeiner Promenade.

South Tyrol’s vine painted slopes amongst the pure white snow summits make vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from Bacchus. When the leaves of the vines softly sway in the breeze, you can be forgiven for thinking its the breath of the Gods upon them.

Paradise by Foot

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — The Brunnenburg Castle beckons walkers from a cliff north of the Tappeiner Promenade.

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Castle Tirol, tempted from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, on a glacial moraine, the Brunnenburg Castle menaced with its multi-turreted tower. Both castles looked as if Tolkien himself had written them into the mountainside.

But before claiming their thrones, we came across an ivy-clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It too looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

We sat in Cafe Unterweger’s sunny patio clinging to the cliffside. The bountiful bloom of the Merano basin held our eyes. The scent of ripe fruit caressed Alpine winds bathing us in the sweet fragrance of harvest. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. The castle trek could wait. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view, we had found just the right place for it.

Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies in strollers to the elderly walking their dogs. As you can tell in this post, our favorite time to stroll the promenades is in the fall, but rest assured you will find them enchanting any time of year.

If enchantment is in your future, access our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. You’ll receive comprehensive guides on how to get the most out of your adventures in South Tyrol.

SAVE THE TAPPEINER PROMENADE TO YOUR TRAVEL PLANS

12 Things to Know Before Visiting South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

Are you longing to explore the sunny side of the Alps? If you’re one of the lucky few jetting off to this hidden gem, you’ve come to the right place…

IN CASE YOU haven’t heard, South Tyrol — also known as Südtirol or Alto Adige — is beyond a doubt Italy’s best-kept secret. This Alpine-Mediterranean jewel crowning the far north teems with more cultural diversity and contrasting natural beauty than anywhere else in Europe.

Whether you’re looking to trek in the Dolomites or unwind poolside in sun-drenched valleys, below are 12 things to know before visiting South Tyrol (with plenty more travel tips tucked in).

1. Adventure in South Tyrol is Tailor-Made For You

We’ve spoken with several travelers wishing to vacation in South Tyrol, but worry the lofty beauty of the Alps and Dolomites is beyond their reach given their older age or fitness level. Nothing could be further from the truth.

South Tyrol ingeniously makes its breathtaking scenery available to EVERYONE. Thanks to state-of-the-art lift systems set across the region, the young and old, skilled and unskilled, can partake in a multitude of activities among the peaks in every season.

South Tyrol Cable Car System — South Tyrol’s mountain scenery is available to everyone thanks to a vast network of lift systems across the region.

In fact, the second oldest cable car in Europe is in South Tyrol. The San Vigilio Cable Car in Lana was built in 1912. Obviously renovated since then, it allows hikers to take in the full majesty of Mt. Vigiljoch — one of South Tyrol’s most enchanting mountains.

The best part about South Tyrol’s lift systems is they give you the freedom to decide the level of difficulty on every hiking outing. You can purchase one-way tickets, ascend portions of a mountain or simply ride up and down for the views.

With nearly 10,000 miles of trails in the region, maximize your time in the mountains. Take advantage of the lifts whenever you can.

hike to seceda — All ages and skill levels can enjoy the pure jaw-dropping wonder of peaks like Seceda.

Not all travelers like the idea of a cable car swiftly whisking them up several thousand feet. If that’s you, don’t despair. In many areas, you can hop in a funicular to carry you up and down the mountainside without ever leaving the Earth.

For those worried about possibly becoming lost trekking in the vast mountainous landscapes. Don’t be. South Tyrol even takes care of that for you. Maps are readily available in tourist offices and near trailheads. Furthermore, trails are clearly marked with abundant signposts directing your next step. We have never had an issue finding a destination, but before venturing into South Tyrol’s sprawling wilderness you should clearly understand how to properly read trail signage.

⇒ LEARN MORE: Discover the Best Hikes in the Dolomites

South Tyrol Trail Signs — Trail signs such as these are throughout South Tyrol making it virtually impossible to get lost.

We have had cell phone reception in most places, but do not count on it in the remote mountainous areas. That said, we strongly recommend only pulling out your phone for the occasional photo.

Holidays in South Tyrol should be your time to reconnect with nature, family and friends. Office emails can wait.

2. Hike the Waalwegs & Promenades

When visiting South Tyrol, you could easily spend all of your time in the heights of the Dolomites, but the natural splendor South Tyrol offers goes well beyond the famous jutting peaks. Wandering along South Tyrol’s Waalwegs is a must.

We adore hiking these paths. They follow ancient water channels that gently ease up the Alps through countless orchards, vineyards, forests and meadows.

Waalweg path in Marlengo — Ancient water channels called “Waalwegs” lead you on hikes through unforgettable scenery.

While meandering, you’ll enjoy the melody of snow-born water flowing at your feet and encounter crumbling castles, wayside shrines, quaint churches and farms and every other storybook scene you can imagine. Waalwegs offer the ideal way to immerse yourself in South Tyrol’s colliding Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes. You can find them throughout the mountains and valleys around Merano and the Venosta/Vinschgau region.

Visiting South Tyrol — The Tappeiner Promenade provides sweeping views of Merano and the surrounding Alps.

South Tyrol also possesses some of the most beautiful promenades in all of Italy. A few of our favorites are located in Merano and Bolzano.

These easy-walking trails expose you to an indelible blend of natural beauty and medieval architectural marvels. You can spend a day wandering them or less than an hour as you might wander pass an inviting cafe with the perfect setting to simply sip a drink and bask in the sun.

3. Buongiorno or Guten Morgen?

If you’re in the early stages of planning a visit to South Tyrol, you may be wondering why there is a German phrase in an article about a region in Italy.

Nearly 70% of South Tyroleans speak German as their first language while 25% speak Italian and 5% speak Ladin. The result of this linguistic plate of spaghetti is that you’ll encounter road signs, menus and more featuring both German and Italian.

Additionally, you’ll see and hear an ancient language called Ladin while venturing through the Dolomites. As an example:

St. Ulrich (German)
Ortisei (Italian)
Urtijëi (Ladin)

All are the name of the same town. Signs posted in the Dolomites feature all three languages.

Sound confusing? It’s not if you prepare a bit before arriving.

While you really don’t need to know much German or Italian to enjoy your visit in South Tyrol, you’ll get more out of your trip if you familiarize yourself with keywords and phrases. Most locals are bilingual so they will appreciate you making the effort. We recommend picking the language that comes easiest to you and sticking to it throughout your trip. This will simplify everything from navigating roadways to ordering “vino” or “wein”.

4. Sip Wines of the Alpine Kind

South Tyrol, known by many as the “land of wines”, could also be known for elevating winemaking into an art form. Over the last 3,000 years, South Tyrol’s wine artisans perfected practices to help vines flourish on the mountainsides. Arbored vineyards now tumble along sun-kissed slopes producing award-winning wine and scenery ripe for a Monet masterpiece.

While you should no doubt indulge in the well-known classics of this region such as Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, broaden your wine horizons by uncorking lesser-known Alpine wines native to South Tyrol. This includes Lagrein, Vernatsch (also commonly referred to as Schiava) and Gewürztraminer.

Sipping wine at Cantina Tramin — Wine with a view? World-class wineries such as **Cantina Tramin** offering tastings along the South Tyrolean Wine Road.

Gewürztraminer, originally from Tramin, a sleepy wine village in southern South Tyrol, is an aromatic and expressive white wine unlike any other. Be sure to try a glass or bottle of Gewürztraminer from the “Queen of Gewürztraminer”, Elena Walch. It is one you will remember.

Another white you may not be familiar with, but you should definitely seek out while visiting South Tyrol is Pinot Bianco (also known as Weissburgunder). A close relative to Pinot Grigio, South Tyrol (Alto Adige if you prefer the official Italian designation for the region) produces the best Pinot Bianco in the world. You can read more about our encounter with this delightful wine during our visit to Nals Margreid Winery.

If you’re like us and are looking to do more than simply sip wine with your meals, make sure to schedule the time to venture along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. This picturesque road winds through several wine villages where you can embark on tastings at some of the finest wineries in the world.

⇒ READ ABOUT OUR STAY ALONG THE WINE ROAD: Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery

5. If You Want to Explore Freely…Rent a Car

South Tyrol’s public transportation system is affordable and world-class. Buses and trains can take you throughout much of South Tyrol. During South Tyrol’s busiest seasons public transit is the most convenient way to travel not mention budget and eco-friendly. However, if your heart is set on freely exploring South Tyrol, we recommend renting a car. This allows you to discover the countryside at your own pace and explore off-the-beaten-path gems others miss.

Navigating the roads in South Tyrol is fairly straightforward. And with today’s modern GPS units you can get step-by-step voice directions to take you anywhere without any hassle.

Driving in the Alps and Dolomites for those not used to mountain roads may seem scary at first thought. But thanks to South Tyrol’s safety-focused roadway designs, one can become comfortable with mountain driving rather quickly. The mountain roads will naturally require greater concentration; however, several waysides exist along the roads allowing you to pull over to take a break or let others pass.

Anyone with a bit of common sense and some pre-trip planning can easily handle Italian roads. To help out, we put together a Driving in Italy Guide you can quickly reference while on Italy’s roadways.

6. Embrace the Alpine Wellness Culture

One of the more alluring aspects of South Tyrol is how it mends the mind, body and soul. The immense natural beauty, joyful celebration of cultural traditions and Alpine lifestyle invites you to slow down and soak in your immediate surroundings.

Alpine Sauna — South Tyrol is a pioneer in Alpine wellness. Discover more in our reviews of **Romantik Hotel Turm**, **Preidlhof Spa & Resort** and **Hotel Quelle.**

Embrace this invitation. You will not regret it. We’ve always found South Tyrol’s slow travel and slow food appeal hard to resist even when we’re pining for the view over the next mountain top.

South Tyrol is a haven for health and fitness enthusiasts. Beautiful spas and resorts, both rustic and contemporary in style, dot the landscape allowing you to reap the benefits of Alpine wellness.

If staying at a spa and resort is not your speed or in your budget, you can still take advantage of South Tyrol’s curative powers at places such as Terme Merano.

Additionally, South Tyrol offers an experience unlike anywhere else with its farm stays. More than 1,600 farms, under the ‘Red Rooster’ seal of quality, allow you to connect with rural life in South Tyrol. You can stay in charming guesthouses and partake in the joyful rigors of farming or simply sit back and admire the idyllic scenery from your balcony.

Red Rooster Farmhouse Inns in South Tyrol — Look for farmhouse inns under the Red Rooster brand shown here.

Few things do more to restore your wellbeing than waking up at an Alpine farm to the distant clang of cowbells and church bells echoing across a mountain valley.

7. Farm Fresh Food is Everywhere

South Tyrol is the culinary star of Italy — possessing more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other part of the country. And unlike many parts of the modern world, the vast majority of restaurants, cafes, bakeries and taverns you will visit while in South Tyrol are family-owned.

South Tyrol’s delicious blend of Tyrolean, German and Italian cultures, launches you on a delectable dining journey brimming with tradition and creativity. Much of South Tyrol’s cuisine is strongly rooted in a farm-to-table custom thanks to the predominance of small scale farms throughout the region. It’s not uncommon for a South Tyrolean to personally know the farm behind her every meal.

While hiking in the mountains, be sure to feast at traditional Italian mountain huts called rifugios. These cozy, chalet-like establishments offer some of the most flavorful mountain dishes on the planet.

With each bite and sip you take in South Tyrol it’s clear they cherish high quality over high quantity. This culinary edict is born from a deep cultural connection to the land and old traditions. South Tyrolean farmers symbolize the unbreakable bond to the past by adorning a traditional blue apron as they work.

A vacation in South Tyrol is not complete without devouring hearty Alpine culinary delights like smoked speck and dumplings, called canederli or knödel. Combined they make a savory dish known as speckknödel, which is also served as a soup.

Speck is one of South Tyrol’s most revered foods and is integral to countless Alpine recipes, not to mention one of our favorite companions to pizza. Not familiar with speck? It is a smoked, cured ham born from blending traditional Northern European smoking methods with the outdoor curing practices of the Mediterranean. We enjoy speck with breakfast, lunch, dinner and in between.

Buchteln Dessert — Like desserts? You’ll fall in love with South Tyrol’s Buchteln.

Of course, no one should visit South Tyrol without satisfying their sweet tooth. A tasty dessert you’ll come to crave is Buchteln — a traditional South Tyrolean marmalade-filled pastry served in vanilla cream.

Since we are on the topic of sweets, another delight you must try from South Tyrol is the crisp wafers and snacks from Loacker.

Founded in 1925 in Bolzano, Loacker’s mountain-size goodness isn’t a surprise considering the Dolomites sit in their backyard. Their products honor classic family traditions using only the best natural ingredients without any artificial colors or flavors. Adding some Loacker goodies to your backpack before hitting a trail is always a sweet move.

Loacker Wafers from South Tyrol — Keep an eye out for Loacker when picking up a snack or two for your hiking outings.

Want to try them before visiting South Tyrol? You’re in luck. Go to the Loacker website to find out where they are sold near you.

Numerous farmers’ markets take place throughout South Tyrol offering the ideal introduction to local specialties. Take the time to browse these markets. You’ll discover a variety of homemade breads and rolls, fragrant herbs, honeys, jams, as well as exceptional Alpine craftsmanship with unique items such as hand-woven baskets, wood carvings, traditional attire, religious artifacts and holiday decor.

Beyond the streetside markets, plan to visit a Pur Südtirol store. With locations in Bolzano, Merano, Brunico and Lana, these stores showcase a treasure trove of South Tyrolean goods. Inside you can browse more than 1,800 products from local farms.

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8. Accommodations are Surprisingly Affordable

In our experience, nothing comes close to matching the quality we receive for our dollar than the accommodations in South Tyrol. We have stayed at hotels, inns and resorts throughout Europe and North America, but the value we receive in South Tyrol is ALWAYS far superior.

Whether splurging on a 5-star resort or lodging at a budget-friendly guesthouse, South Tyroleans go above and beyond in their hospitality. You can stay at an authentic rustic farmstead perched on a mountainside for as little as 30-50 € per night. There is no better way to connect with the rural culture and traditions of South Tyrol.

9. South Tyrol is Europe’s Apple Basket

Any discussion about the wonders of South Tyrol without mentioning apples would be reckless. They are everywhere. The delicious fruit has been grown in South Tyrol for more than 1,300 years. Today, more apples come from South Tyrol than any other region in Europe. They are celebrated for their intense flavors and colors.

Rambling through South Tyrol’s apple orchards is an aromatic journey filled with scenery made to steal your breath. You’ll be tempted to steal a bite too, but keep your hands to yourself. You can visit any market to load up the deliciousness the apple trees drop to the valley floor.

While you’re in South Tyrol make sure to pour yourself a glass of the region’s apple juice (called apfelsaft). The smooth sweetness it imparts on your lips will call to you long after you’ve left. It is a worthy alternative to wine any day.

South Tyrol Apple Strudel — Apple strudel is a traditional treat that one must indulge in while visiting South Tyrol.

Another apple-born gem you must try is traditional apple strudel (apfelstrudel). South Tyroleans typically enjoy this treat in the afternoon or after dinner as a dessert. However, we enjoy it whenever we can get our hands on it.

10. Venture Beyond the Vino

While it will be tempting to complement all your meals with South Tyrolean wine, we’d be doing you a disservice if we didn’t tell you about South Tyrol’s milk. It is the Alpine nectar of the gods. Another must-try while visiting South Tyrol. If you’re not wowed after your first sip, modern life may have permanently dulled your taste buds.

Sudtirol Milch from Mila — Fresh milk from the Alpine farms of South Tyrol is a must-addition to your morning cup of coffee.

Of course, when the milk is out of this world, it’s only natural that the cheese would follow suit. With over 200 varieties to savor, here’s a list of acclaimed South Tyrol cheeses to get you started.

Cheese aficionados will not want to miss a visit to DEGUST Cheese Shop. Founded by a Michelin-starred chef, DEGUST specializes in producing choice cheeses from small dairy farms in South Tyrol. The shop is located just minutes away from South Tyrol’s revered Abbey of Novacella — a nearly 1,000-year-old winery and monastery that is a must-see.

Be sure to order a Hugo cocktail while relaxing on the slopes of South Tyrol. This world-famous drink was invented by a South Tyrolean in Naturns. It is a refreshing must-sip no matter when you visit.

South Tyrol's Hugo Cocktail — Don’t miss out on enjoying a Hugo while giving your legs a break.

Those looking for a libation that packs a bit more punch than wine or a cocktail should definitely order a spirit called “Grappa”. Distilleries in South Tyrol produce grappa from the pomace of grapes (stems, skins, etc. left over after pressing). Many South Tyroleans enjoy grappa after meals to promote digestion. A dash of it is also commonly added to espressos.

When it comes to quenching your thirst after a grueling outdoor excursion, the precious water from South Tyrol’s pristine mountain springs is a godsend. We consider it the best in the world.

Before heading out on hikes, we fill up our water bottles with water from Plose or Meraner Minerlwasser. The purity of South Tyrol’s water elevates the sensation of refreshing to a new level. If you forget to add a bottle to your backpack, you can order the water at any of the mountain huts along the trails.

South Tyrol Water — We consider South Tyrol’s bottled water to be the best in the world.

11. A Sun-Drenched Paradise with Mountain-size Mood Swings

South Tyrol bathes in 300 days of sunshine per year. All that heavenly light bestows on travelers an Alpine-Mediterranean oasis ripe for adventure and relaxation.

But even with its sunny disposition, South Tyrol’s weather can be a bit unpredictable. This should be no surprise considering majestic Alpine peaks punctuate nearly every corner. Travelers simply need to be mindful of this when embarking on outdoor adventures.

It’s best to pack rain gear or snow gear depending on when you’re visiting. Rain can occur anytime during the spring, summer and fall. Snow is less predictable. However, if you are visiting anytime from October through May there’s a chance you’ll be encountering old man winter.

We were once caught in a spring rainstorm while hiking along a Waalweg. When we set out on the trail, it was a picture-perfect day with just a few clouds lingering above us. Two hours later that all changed. The rain came out of nowhere. An ungodly amount of it. We were forced to sprint for 15 minutes to a hut set off the trail.

Fortunately, the host at the hut removed the chill from our bones with ample amounts of Schnapps. That, of course, led to another unanticipated adventure: hiking back to the trailhead on liquor-challenged legs.

Much of South Tyrol’s beauty stems from opposing forces of nature. It’s important to wear the proper gear and be mindful of weather conditions as we noted above. That means hiking in sandals isn’t wise and venturing onto questionable cliffs or unmarked areas is just plain stupid. You don’t need to risk injury or your life to capture that next rock star Instagram photo.

Storm over Seiser Alm — Like all mountainous areas, South Tyrol’s weather can rapidly change. Be smart. Be prepared.

Our South Tyrol Resource Library includes a hiking checklist that helps ensure you stay safe while consuming South Tyrol’s great outdoors. At a minimum, we recommend tossing an umbrella in your backpack when visiting in the spring, summer and fall. We genuinely want you to have the adventure of a lifetime and that means using common sense and respecting nature.

12. Matters of Money

The currency in South Tyrol is the Euro. We recommend obtaining Euros from an ATM (called Bancomat) or bank when in Italy. ATMs are abundant. Even in South Tyrol’s most quaint villages. The majority of shops, restaurants and hotels accept ATM cards and credit cards. Don’t bother exchanging your cash at an exchange booth in an airport as you will not receive the best deal.

If you’re ever not clear on the true cost of an item when looking at its price, download a money converting app onto your smartphone. There are plenty of free ones in your app store.

South Tyrol Farm-to-Table Products — When roaming the trails in South Tyrol, you’ll pass many local farm stands displaying their outstanding specialties. We never miss an opportunity to support them. Be sure to bring some cash while hiking so you can do the same. These stands operate on the honor system.

South Tyrol is incredibly credit card friendly. In most cases, you can get by at all times by using a credit card with a chip. However, we recommend carrying some cash as it’s much easier when making a purchase at a street or trailside food stand or at any of the many open-air markets you’ll no doubt want to explore.

If you’re visiting during the holiday season, bring cash to South Tyrol’s Christmas markets. None of the stalls accept credit cards from our experience.

When selecting a credit card for your trip be sure to understand if it charges international transaction fees. We recommend using a card that doesn’t charge any, but you may have a card that offers other perks that outweigh any fees incurred while visiting South Tyrol.

Since we’re talking about money you may be wondering how expensive it is to visit South Tyrol. The region is surprisingly affordable. Prices are only slightly higher than Italy on average. You can find a wealth of accommodations fitting a wide range of budgets and tastes. If you want to save money easily, simply stay off-the-beaten-path in the less touristy areas.

Tipping is not expected in South Tyrol; however, it is common to round up the bill if you had a pleasant experience.

Bonus: South Tyrol’s 5th Season

Since we’re talking about nature, let’s discuss seasons. South Tyrol has five of them. All are immeasurably enjoyable in their own way, but there is one that stands apart from the others: Törggelen. Törggelen is an age-old tradition that celebrates South Tyrol’s wine harvest. It begins in October and ends around the start of the Christmas season.

During Törggelen, South Tyrol’s farmers introduce their new wines. These festive celebrations include pairings with roasted chestnuts and traditional South Tyrolean dishes. And best of all, live music inspires a jovial atmosphere that is as infectious as the wine being poured.

South Tyrol Törggelen — Out of all the things to do in South Tyrol, **Törggelen** ranks near the top of must-have experiences.

If you can time your South Tyrol vacation during Törggelen, you’ll get to experience a historic cultural treasure that rivals the scenery around you. Hotels and inns book up fast during the Törggelen season so be sure to secure your accommodations well in advance.

A Land So Fiercely Enchanting You’ll Be Back

The final thing we’d like to share with you is a friendly word of caution. After visiting South Tyrol, you may just fall in love. Hard. South Tyrol is a place where the land, the people and their passions capture your heart. Forever.

If you’re like us, you may toss out your travel wish list and put South Tyrol at the center of all your adventures.

Don’t fret trying to see all of South Tyrol during your visit. You won’t be able to. Pick 2 to 3 main areas to explore and trust that you will be back.

Creating a list of things to see and do while vacationing in South Tyrol could swallow up all the pages on the Internet, but we hope the insight above helps you embark on an unforgettable trip. Follow us on social media to discover more of the wonders of South Tyrol.

If you have any questions about something we didn’t cover, please leave them in the comments below. Also, don’t forget to sign up for our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Inside you’ll find useful tips and checklists to help save time and money while you plan your escape to South Tyrol.

Ensure a Positively Awesome Trip to South Tyrol

Finally, if you have crafted a South Tyrol itinerary, but are not positive it’s the best it could be, we can help. We know how overwhelming it is to make an itinerary with second- and third-hand sources.

If you’re concerned about missing key destinations, experiences and hidden gems, our itinerary review service will better align your interests and smooth out logistics to maximize your time and money during your travels in South Tyrol. Click here to learn more about our South Tyrol Itinerary Review Service.

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The Ultimate Guide to Bolzano: Gateway to the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 48 Comments

Bolzano embraces you and whispers a seductive medley of culture, history and soul-lifting sights deep into your being. Here’s your step-by-step guide to enjoying an unforgettable time in South Tyrol’s most cosmopolitan city.

WITH THE SNOW-DUSTED DOLOMITES boldly calling beyond its vine-drenched hillsides, you may be tempted to breeze through Bolzano. What a foolhardy mistake that would be.

A visit to Bolzano — or Bozen as it is also known — envelopes you in lasting charm. It immerses you in centuries of German, Italian and Austrian influences not to mention a riveting history that surpasses ancient Rome by 3,000 years. Often referred to as “The Gateway to the Dolomites”, this vibrant capital of South Tyrol crystalizes why the region is one of the must-see hidden gems of Europe.

Tucked between Innsbruck to the north and Trento to the south, Bolzano boasts a quality of life that ranks at the top in Italy. No surprise considering it balances all the perks of a youthful city with old-world charm and sensibilities — all amid jaw-dropping natural splendor.

You could arrive in the city without a plan and still come away filled with enchanting experiences. But if you are planners like us, here are the top things to do in Bolzano.

What to Do in Bolzano

#1 Ease into a Sun-kissed Morning

Head to the historic center of the city. Start your day with a hot chocolate, cappuccino or tea at one of Bolzano’s cozy street-side cafes. Joviality will join you the second you take a seat. The Mediterranean climate in this part of South Tyrol makes enjoying morning’s light next to divine. Sit back and watch the city come to life.

Go full South Tyrolean by ordering up a freshly-baked krapfen. Krapfen is a delicious doughnut-like pastry filled with apricot or jam marmalade. Careful, as one may turn into two.

While relaxing install the BZMobile app — the official guide to visiting Bolzano — on your smartphone. The app lets you flip through a comprehensive list of attractions, restaurants, walks and more.

Now take a deep breath. It’s okay. You’re not going to see everything Bolzano offers in one day — this is a dolce vita town made for lazy strolls that effortlessly spill into meandering conversations over lattes and wine.

Now is a good time to plan to stay in the area longer. If that’s doable, consider obtaining the Bolzano Bozen Card. This card is complimentary at participating hotels and provides free access to numerous museums in Bolzano and 90 other museums throughout South Tyrol. Included with the card are English-speaking city tours and guided excursions from Bolzano to the Dolomites National Park, along with free use of all public transportation throughout South Tyrol.

#2 Visit Bolzano’s Poetic Heart

The best way to discover a city is through its culinary traditions. You can embark on such a mouth-pleasing adventure through the Bolzano Street Food Tour. This 2 ½ hour outing begins at 10:00 a.m. and includes 5 stops where you’ll indulge in local specialties such as bread, sausage, sweets, as well as historical nuggets shared by your tour guide.

this is a dolce vita town made for lazy strolls that effortlessly spill into meandering conversations over lattes and wine.

If you enjoyed one too many krapfens, a morning food tour may not be for you. In that case, set off on your own to see some of Bolzano’s treasured sights. The perfect starting point is the city’s “living room” or Waltherplatz, which is the town square.

At the center looms a remarkable statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, a renowned poet and Minnesinger from the Middle Ages believed to have been born in South Tyrol. He was the Jim Morrison of the medieval age. Sculpted in 1889 from South Tyrol’s revered Lasser marble, the statue stands on an impressive fountain encircled by flowers.

Christmas Market in Bolzano — Waltherplatz hosts a variety of special events throughout the year including the oldest Christmas market in Italy.

Walther Square in Bolzano, the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide — Of all the things to do in Bolzano, paying homage to the great Walther von der Vogelweide is a must. His remarkable marble monument watches over sun-lovers reveling in Waltherplatz.

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The Waltherplatz is the ideal spot for lingering and people watching. From late November to early January, it hosts one of Italy’s largest Christmas markets. The square comes alive like a wintry fairy tale with puppet shows, festive pastries, ample cups of Glühwein, horse-drawn carriage rides and 80+ stalls of seasonal gifts, treats and crafts. If you’re visiting Bolzano at this time, we highly recommend taking public transportation instead of driving due to the popularity of this market.

The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes Bolzano a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you've left.

From the square, it’s impossible to miss the Gothic-Romanesque cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, which is the largest Gothic church in South Tyrol. The cathedral was originally constructed in the 12th century and took on its Gothic form in the 14th century.

Crowning the cathedral is an ornately patterned roof matching the vibrancy of the square. Its steepled bell tower chisels into the sky. The stonework is striking. Two weathered lions guard its entrance and form the base of two columns supporting an archway. A massively forged door with curious carvings of the Isarco river and the Dolomites welcomes worshipers.

Inside, lovers of medieval art can enjoy frescoes from the 1300s and marvel at the cathedral’s pulpit. It is a masterful work of Gothic art sculpted in 1507. While visiting, see if you can spot the hunter and fox lingering within its etchings.

Bolzano Church Pulpit from 1507 — Towering next to Bolzano’s bustling Waltherplatz lies Our Lady of the Assumption — the largest Gothic church in South Tyrol. A medieval masterpiece inside and out.

#3 Wander Where the Streets Have No Lame

Leaving the cathedral, head to the Via Portici (also called Laubengasse) just north of the square. This street was the first to ever run through Bolzano. A pulsating center of trade for nearly 1,000 years, arcaded shops now greet you on both sides for as far as the eye can see.

You can simply walk along appreciating the many storefronts, but the real gems are inside. You’ll find everything from traditional crafts and attire to designer clothing, shoes and more.

Even if you don’t intend to purchase any goods, be sure to peek into a few shops. Many walls still showcase ancient frescoes revealing age-old market scenes.

While the shops are fun to explore, the colorful facades lining the Via Portici really bring your imagination to life. They vividly exhibit a melodic blend of Italian and German architectural influences decorated with murals, carvings and other artistic expressions.

Bolzano Arcaded Shops — If you can’t decide what to do in Bolzano first, engage in a bit of retail therapy. The arcaded shops running along the Via Portici have been attracting shoppers since 1180!

Along Via Portici, you’ll also find the Mercantile Museum and Mercantile Palace founded by Claudia de‘ Medici. This is the only Renaissance-style building in Bolzano.

It once served as a court of justice for the Mercantile Court. Today, the museum tells the fascinating story of Bolzano’s economic importance through the centuries.

#4 Enjoy an Authentic South Tyrolean Lunch

After consuming so much history, art and architecture it’s only natural to settle in for a long lunch. Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele.

A cultural gem of Bolzano, the establishment was first mentioned in 1277 and held secret gatherings in World War II. Gaining entrance to these meetings required whispering “Vögele”, which means “little bird”.

Wirsthaus Vögele is a member of Sudtiroler Gasthaus — an organization dedicated to carefully preserving South Tyrolean restaurant culture and quality. The restaurant conjures a cozy atmosphere with a winding assortment of dining rooms each offering its own ambiance.

If you’re visiting Bolzano during asparagus season in April or May, be sure to try a dish with “spargel”. Our asparagus risotto was as good as a sweetly sung melody from Walther von der Vogelweide himself!

Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele.

Another excellent choice for lunch is the Stadt Cafe & Restaurant which sits along the edge of the Waltherplatz. Expansive windows on the front, as well as an outdoor seating area, allow you to continue people watching while also soaking views of forested slopes bounding into the horizon.

A well thought out menu offers the type lunchtime fare that will please you whether desiring Italian or traditional South Tyrolean dishes. The desserts are decadent here so pace yourself.

stadtt cafe pasta dish — Craving pasta? The Stadt Cafe & Restaurant provides a remarkable setting to savor Italian.

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#6 Journey 5000+ Years Back in Time

After lunch, head west on Via Portici. You’re about to go back in time…way back. You’ll eventually come to the home of Bolzano’s most famous resident at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.

At the age of 5,300 years old, Ötzi the Iceman is a remarkably well-preserved corpse. Mummified naturally by glacier ice, he’s the oldest intact human body ever found. His discovery by two hikers in 1991 on a mountainside in South Tyrol’s Ötztal Alps shook the world.

Analysis of his body indicates an arrow cut Ötzi’s life short. Fortunately, that type of hospitality has long left South Tyrol.

If Ötzi were alive today no doubt he would be the leader of a biker gang. Scientists discovered 61 tattoos across his body. We highly recommend buying your tickets online before you go. See our latest post for more riveting facts about the life, death and discovery of Ötzi.

#7 Amble Along the Piazza delle Erbe

When you’re through visiting Ötzi, you may be craving a mid-afternoon snack. Head back to the city center to the Piazza delle Erbe, a lively marketplace since 1295.

Spend time browsing the stalls overflowing with fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers and other specialties such as regional meats, cheeses and baked goods. If you walk away without picking up a tasty delight or two you’ll be insulting a 700+ year tradition on the streets of Bolzano.

The Fountain of Neptune in Bolzano — The Fountain of Neptune watches over the patrons of the Piazza delle Erbe market.

The Fountain of Neptune statue is an imposing presence as you venture through the open-air market. The sable monument with his fierce trident looms above the cobblestones. Sculpted in 1745, it is considered among the most impressive fountains in Italy.

#8 Encounter the Legend of St. Francis…and a Descendant of Dracula

From the market, wander north along the Franziskanergasse to the Franciscan Friary. Founded in 1221, the friary contains a Gothic church, chapel and cloisters with frescoes dating back to the 14th century.

Franciscan Friary in Bozen — While visiting Bolzano, a young Saint Francis supposedly attended Mass in the chapel that is today part of the friary.

Taking time to study the lively scenes as you walk under the cloisters is a rewarding experience for anyone curious about medieval history.

It is believed Saint Francis partook in Mass in the Chapel while visiting Bolzano with his cloth merchant father who was in town on business.

Another legend also enshrouds the friary albeit one much more nightmarish. The funeral stone and tomb of the real-life Count Dracula’s great-grandson forever marks its hallowed walls.

His name was Petru Schiopul, but he was known as “Peter the Lame”. He died in 1594. His remains rest within a tomb sealed with a stone bearing the carving of a bull’s head, the traditional symbol of Moldavia as well as a carving of the devil.

Grandson of Dracula Funeral Stone — Tread lightly. The funeral stone and remains of Count Dracula’s great-grandson are forever a part of the Franciscan Friary.

#9 Explore the Wines & Castles of Bolzano

If your day has not been consumed by the old world charms of Bolzano, you can either hop back in your car or rent a bike for a 25-minute ride to the Messner Mountain Museum Firmian located within Sigmundskron Castle. Just 4 miles southeast of Bolzano’s city center, this museum explores the relationship between man and mountain as inspired by the legendary climber Reinhold Messner (check out this piece about why Messner is the world’s great living man).

Biking in Bolzano — Bolzano is one of the most bike-friendly towns in Italy. Consider renting one to see the sights like a local.

Next, you can venture up to the ancient ruins of Schloss Rafenstein, which watch over the city. Enjoy some of the South Tyrolean treats you picked up earlier as you admire the views.

Then head over to Castel Roncolo (Schloss Runkelstein), also known as the Painted Castle (note: the castle is also accessible from the Talvera-Promenade in the city center or the line 12 shuttle bus from Waltherplatz). This well-preserved 12th-century castle showcases frescoes inside and out lending a colorful window back to life in medieval times.

Castle Runkelstein / Castle Roncolo — Castel Roncolo is a well-preserved 12th-century fortress that lends a colorful window into life during the Middle Ages.

If you’re feeling inclined to embark on a wine tasting, Bolzano will enchant you with the exquisite Alpine wines of South Tyrol. In fact, a saying you might hear while visiting is “Venice may swim on water, but Bolzano swims on wine.”

Sure, Venice has its appeal, but we’ll take the joyful buoyancy of Bolzano’s wine over water any day.

An unforgettable place to explore this truth is a winery located deep within a mountain on the northern end of town. Intrigued? Read more about our tasting at Kellerei Bozen. Making a trek to this 100+-year-old icon of wine while visiting Bolzano is a must for wine and architecture lovers alike.

#10 Dine & Sip the Evening Away

There is not any shortage of exceptional evening dining options in and around Bolzano. Our recommendation is to head back to the city center to dine at the much-celebrated Restaurant Laurin located in the Parkhotel Laurin. Here, you can let the culinary magic of head chef Manuel Astuto dazzle your senses in an Art Noveau setting beautified with palm trees.

He is a master of fusing South Tyrol’s Mediterranean heart with the soul of the surrounding mountains. Some of the world’s biggest movie stars have come to crave his South Tyrolean creations. So much so they fly him around the world to prepare meals at their private parties.

No matter where you choose to eat, be sure to order a glass of Lagrein as you’re in the home of this robustly flavored, but smooth wine.

A dish from Manuel Astuto at Hotel Laurin in Bolzano — Chef Manuel Astuto is a culinary star at the Parkhotel Laurin restaurant. A master in creating dishes with mouth-watering presentation and equally arresting flavors.

Additional Sights & Activities While Visiting Bolzano

If conquering castles is not your thing, consider immersing yourself in the natural beauty around Bolzano. One option is to catch the Ritten/Renon cable car. It whisks you high above Bolzano to the Ritten / Renon high plateau.

From up here, you can hike a variety of trails and take in wide-open views of the Dolomites’ Rosengarten and Schlern massifs. You can also trek to the surreal 25,000-year-old Earth pyramids. These odd natural formations look like stone thorns piercing the mountainside. An almost eerie sight you will not forget.

Autumn is the perfect time for relaxing walks along the Renon Chestnut Trail.

The San Genesio cable car offers a climb to even more hiking paths. This is the ancestral home to the Haflinger horse which is a blonde horse breed born in the mountains of South Tyrol. Visit nearby stables and book a horseback ride or let someone else take the reins and enjoy the views from a horse-drawn carriage. Numerous alpine huts dot the trails allowing you to stop for a meal and a drink.

Getting to Bolzano

If you’re holidaying other northern Italy destinations such as Venice or Lake Como, consider visiting Bolzano. The city is easy to fit into your trip plans. It’s just 2 to 3 hours away by car, bus or train.

Arriving by car is utterly gorgeous. Check out our guide on driving in Italy to ensure you’re ready.

We recommend parking on the outskirts of the city center. The Parcheggio Mareccio is a convenient lot located off Via Claudia de’ Medici with the 13th-century Maretsch Castle as its backdrop. The castle is now an event center, but tourists can visit when events are not taking place. Its tower boasts one of the best views of Bolzano.

From this lot, you can easily be in the center of Bolzano within a 10-minute walk. On your way back to your car, opt for a scenic stroll along the “Meadows of Talvera”, a beautiful park set along the river Talvera.

Our first exposure to Bolzano left us craving more and we’re certain yours will too. The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes the city a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you’ve left. If you’re like us, you may just want to make Bolzano, Italy your new home!

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for arranging our lovely tour with our guide Luciano Rech. We highly recommend him. Learn more about tour options here.

Have you been to this alluring town? Let us know in the comments below if we missed any of the best things to do in Bolzano.

Book a Tour from Bolzano to the Dolomites

In addition to spending time amid Bolzano’s cobblestoned avenues, consider booking a tour of the Dolomites. See the options below.

VISITING BOLZANO IN THE FUTURE? PIN THIS POST!

The Ötzi photos provided courtesy of South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.

Driving in Italy Made Easy…Guaranteed (Updated 2020)

By Kate & Vin 37 Comments

ANYONE with a dose of common sense, a little pre-trip prep and a solid smartphone or GPS can easily handle driving in Italy. Here are the top Italy driving tips to handle the roads like a pro.

Driving in Italy is safe, fun and a must if you really want to see the land. With a car, nearly all of Italy’s historic, cultural and natural jewels will be yours for the picking. And trust us, hidden gems such as Italy’s South Tyrol region are not to be missed.

In this article, you’ll learn:

Key road rules for driving and parking in Italy
What you legally need to drive in Italy
What to do in case of a roadside emergency
Rental car tips and Italy rental car insurance requirements
How to easily handle tolls on the Autostrada
Money and time-saving tricks
How to easily navigate Italian roads & more

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our Driving in Italy Guide – Cheatsheets & Checklist — an easy-to-use reference guide designed for quick access on your phone, tablet or as a printout while on the road.

What Side of the Road Does Italy Drive On?

Italians drive on the right side of the road

One of the top questions we receive about driving in Italy is what side of the road do Italians drive on. Well, we have some good news for some of you.

Italians drive on the right-hand side of the road (the same as the U.S. and much of Europe). And equally important, the steering wheel is on the left side as well.

If you were fretting making a mistake on the road due to it being different in that respect, your biggest mental hurdle to driving in Italy is behind you!

How to Obtain a Driving License in Italy

Another common question we receive is whether there is a special Driving in Italy license that must be obtained before hitting the road.

By law, Italy requires foreign drivers to be over 18 and possess an International Driving Permit (IDP). While not technically an Italian driver’s license, this document translates your current driver’s license into a format that allows authorities to easily identify you.

Note: Drivers with a valid license issued by any EU member country do not need an International Driving Permit to drive in Italy. Those from the U.K. can use their current license until December 31, 2020.

Obtaining an IDP is easy, cheap and needs to happen before you head to Italy. Don’t worry. You do not need to pass any tests.

The U.S. State Department has authorized only two entities to issue citizens IDPs: American Automobile Association (AAA) and the American Automobile Touring Alliance (AATA).

To apply, go to one of the above links and print out the application form. You’ll also need two original passport pictures (easily available at places such as Walgreens), your valid driver’s license and $20 for the permit processing fee.

If you visit a local AAA branch office you can obtain your IDP within 10-15 minutes. If you choose to apply via the mail allow 4 to 6 weeks so plan accordingly. Once issued, your IDP is valid for 1 year.

If you are Canadian, visit the Canadian Automobile Association website to obtain an IDP.

Tip: If you are driving in Itay as a tourist, we suggest keeping the permit in the glove box of your rental car so you do not have to worry about forgetting it in your hotel room.

How to Rent a Car in Italy

To get the best deal when renting a car in Italy, conduct online research using a consolidator site such as Kayak or Auto Europe. Reserve a car before you depart on your trip. With these sites, you can browse multiple car rental options and easily sort by the best price and features.

We’ve had the best luck renting through Auto Europe. They offer the most affordable choices, never add hidden fees and provide 24-hour assistance in English. In addition, Auto Europe provides free winter tires, which is required in some parts of Italy if you’re traveling between November 15 – April 15.

Rental car options in Italy default to manual transmission so unless you like cruising around with a stick shift be sure to select automatic transmission when searching. You’ll pay a bit more for an automatic, but the cost is worth it.

Renting a Car in Italy — A small, compact car in Italy gives you the most flexibility to get around.

When it comes to vehicle size, we always opt for a smaller vehicle such as a Fiat 500. Sure with a smaller car, your odds of looking like a man of international mystery are slim to none, but they are the most budget-friendly. Plus, they allow you to dart down narrow medieval alleys and park with relative ease — something that is especially critical when visiting Naples and other cities brimming with antiquity. The compact vehicles we’ve rented have never had an issue handling mountain roads when hiking in the Dolomites.

To save money with your car rental in Italy, pick it up and drop it off at the same location. For us, this means we book our flights in and out of the same airport. If you drop it off at a location other than where you picked it up, you’ll likely pay a premium. Check out these tips for finding the best flight deals.

Time-Saving Tip: Consider Adding a Telepass Device

If you expect to frequently use Italy’s toll highways known as “autostrade”, we strongly recommend asking the rental car company to provide you with a “Telepass” device for your car. The rental clerk may not think to offer it, but the device is available.

This electronic device sits on your dashboard allows you to breeze through tollways without having to stop and make a payment with your credit card or cash. You simply select the “Telepass” lane and the device will beep as you pass through. Toll charges are then automatically applied to the credit card you supplied the rental car company.

The cost of renting the Telepass device is a few Euros per day, but it will save you time and the hassle of entering and departing the autostrade. If you do not wish to rent the device, we cover how to handle making toll payments below.

The Right Way to Obtain Car Rental Insurance in Italy

With regards to car rental insurance, the car rental company should include basic, mandated liability coverage for damage to anyone or anything outside the car due to an accident. Italy also by law automatically requires renters to pay for a collision damage waiver (CDW) and theft protection. This is not an add-on and will be included in your car rental rate.

By having CDW insurance the car rental company waives the right to collect a high deductible from you if the car is damaged. This greatly reduces the deductible you would owe if you’re in an accident or damage the car. It also covers most of the car if you are in a collision.

We do not purchase extra insurance as a part of our car rental agreement. Instead, we include it with our trip insurance plan, which we purchase in the event we need to cancel our trip. If you don’t typically purchase trip insurance, we highly recommend it for added peace of mind. To compare the best trip insurance plans, we use InsureMyTrip. It’s fast and convenient.

Some credit cards include car rental insurance as a benefit, but make sure it covers countries such as Italy. Review the complete description of the coverage offered by your credit card company before relying on it.

How to Drive in Italy

When it comes to navigating from one destination to the next, driving in Italy as a tourist has never been easier. The only way to confidently explore the country is with a solid GPS. Consider the following navigation options for a stress-free time on the road:

Rent a Car with a Built-in GPS System – Odds are your rental car in Italy includes the option to include a GPS navigation system for an additional cost.

Bring a Stand-Alone GPS Unit – Bringing your own GPS unit not only saves you money, but also makes departing to your destination easier. Why? Few things are more frustrating than trying to program a rental car’s GPS system when you’re jet-lagged and its default language is Italian or German. You can also save time in Italy by programming sights and destinations into your GPS unit before arriving.

If you don’t own a GPS unit, you can buy a used one by searching on sites such as Craigslist. However, if you like the latest and greatest gadgets we recommend going with the Garmin Nuvi. This device is intuitive to use and has never failed to get us to our destination even when we wrongly thought we knew a better way! When in doubt, trust your GPS.

No matter where you purchase your GPS make sure it is loaded with maps covering where you intend to visit in Italy. For our trips to South Tyrol, we purchased the Garmin City Navigator 2016 Northern Italy Map microSD Card. This GPS map is very comprehensive and features motorways, national and regional thoroughfares and local roads throughout Northern Italy, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and more.

Use a Navigation App on Your Smartphone – If your smartphone will have reliable service in Italy, you can receive turn-by-turn directions through navigation apps like Google Maps. Within the last two years, this has been our preferred navigation option as cellular service has improved and the directions are as accurate as a traditional GPS. That said, we still bring our own GPS unit in the event we encounter an area without service.

Understanding Basic Rules of the Italian Road

Italians are competent and decisive drivers. By knowing the basic rules of driving in Italy, you can hold your own behind the wheel. Just recognize that they will rule the road. And that’s just fine. Driving in Italy as a tourist means you’re not in a race.

When traveling on multi-lane highways such as Italy’s autostrade, only use the left lane if you are passing. Just like in the U.S., the left lane is not the place to act like you’re on a Sunday drive. But unlike in the U.S., cars can come up behind you at incredible speeds on a regular basis. The best thing to do is just get out of their way by keeping to the right.

Even though Italians drive fast, all roads in Italy do have speed limits. On country roads the speed limit is 90 km/h (56 mph), on freeways it is 110 km/h (68 mph) and on the autostrade it is 130 km/h (81 mph). Your best bet is to obey the posted speed limit signs, but apply common sense. Go with the flow of traffic. We always do so without issue.

However, it’s worth keeping in mind that Italy does extensively monitor speeds with highway cameras and will issue fines that hit you through your car rental company.

Road Mirror in Italy — Use roadside mirrors when approaching corners while driving in Italy.

Stop signs and stop lights operate the same in Italy as the U.S.; however, it is always illegal to make a right turn at a red light in Italy.

Many other road signs you’ll encounter driving in Italy are intuitive and universal. But some can be confusing so it’s worthwhile to familiarize yourself with the most common. We’ve developed a handy Driving in Italy Guide that you can download to your phone, tablet or print out for easy reference when you’re in your car. We use this guide on every trip to Italy and have found it a true stress reliever for the times when you get flustered on the road and can’t recall a specific rule, sign or guideline.

Italy has no shortage of narrow, winding roads. To help you see what may be coming ahead, mirrors are often posted on the side of the road by corners. Get into the habit of using them to avoid potential problems.

How to Drive on Italy’s Autostrade

Driving in Italy Tips — Don’t be this guy. Make sure you can reach the toll booth from your car window. Of all our driving in Italy tips, this is the one we see drivers ignore the most.

Italy’s autostrade (autostrada – singular) are toll highways that require taking a ticket to enter and then paying at drive-up toll booths upon exiting, which happens when you pull into a city, town, etc. (gas stations are conveniently located right next to the autostrade so you do not need to exit to fuel up). Even though you have to deal with tolls, the autostrade makes driving in Italy efficient — allowing you to quickly get from destination to destination.

The autostrade are designated by green signs and with A in front of a number. For example, the toll road from Verona to Bolzano is A22. Here’s how to simply use the autostrade while driving in Italy:

Entering the Autostrade – Select a lane with a white sign with the word “Biglietto” (ticket). When you pull up, grab the ticket from the machine and place it where you can easily access it later. The toll bar will automatically rise to allow you to be on your way. The lanes with yellow signs are for residents who have a Telepass, which allows them to zip through the toll without taking a ticket. Note: As mentioned above, you can now rent a Telepass device from your rental car company.

Italy Autostrada Toll Ticket — Autostrade Toll Ticket

Exiting the Autostrade – When you pull up to the toll lanes to exit the autostrade you will see multiple options. As a tourist, you’ll want to select either the lane with the white sign showing a hand with a cash symbol or the lane with the white sign and cash symbol along with credit card symbols on a blue background.

Italy Autostrada Toll Cash Payment Sign — Autostrade Toll Cash Payment Lane Sign

The lane with the hand symbol indicates there is an attendant who will take your ticket and handle the transaction. This lane is cash only. The lane with the cash and credit card symbols is a self-service lane where you insert your ticket in the machine as indicated and then insert a credit card or pay by inserting cash or dropping in coins. The machine dispenses change if necessary. The type of credit cards accepted is chip cards (most U.S. cards now have chips) from American Express, Visa or MasterCard.

We typically pay with cash or coins in either lane, but have also used our credit cards without any issues. Entering a PIN is not necessary when paying by credit card.

Paying Autostrada toll in Italy — Pay Autostrade tolls with cash or card.

Planning Your Trip on the Autostrade – Before leaving for Italy, it’s worthwhile to map out your road trips to determine if you’ll be using the autostrade and how frequently. It’s also helpful to see if there are viable alternative routes where you can avoid tolls. The tool we use is ViaMichelin. ViaMichelin calculates estimated driving times, fuel costs as well as toll costs.

Additional Rules & Driving in Italy Tips

Here are some more key rules and tips you should be aware of before driving in Italy:

Buckle Up – Everyone in the vehicle must wear seat belts.
Headlights – Headlights are required to be on at all times when on two-lane highways.
Drinking & Driving – Italy has a 0.5mg blood alcohol limit for drivers. A glass of wine or two can put you over the limit. Watch what you sip or ensure you have a designated driver.
Children – Leave them at home. (just kidding!). Children under the age of four must be secured in an approved child safety seat. Kids from 4 to 12 must be in a child restraint if they are riding in the front passenger seat.
Emergency Accessories – Italy requires each vehicle to have a visibility vest for every occupant, as well as an emergency triangle in the vehicle. Your rental car company should automatically include these in the vehicle, but it’s worth double-checking with the agent at the pickup counter. If you forget and need to purchase a vest, they are readily available at gas stations and are inexpensive. No, you do not need to wear these while driving! Just put them on if you pull over to the side of the road and get out for any reason.
Mobile Phones – If you plan to use your phone while driving, make sure you use a hands-free device. If you plan to text while driving, you are stupido.
Zona Traffico Limitato or ZTL – When driving in a city or town do not enter areas with a sign that says Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL). These are car restricted areas such as city centers and plazas. Some ZTL areas capture your license plate number with a camera and you’ll receive a hefty fine if you mistakenly enter one. The fine will find its way to your credit card through your car rental company.
Right of Way – At intersections, vehicles approaching from the right always have the right of way.

How to Properly Park in Italy

Parking in Italy can look like a plate of spaghetti. But knowing your options and what to keep an eye out for will make you much more confident.

Often you can locate free parking outside of towns and cities and take a shuttle to the center. This is ideal to avoid driving in a major city. It can be incredibly hectic…especially when you do not know the language or the local unwritten rules of the road. Plus, driving in a major city in Italy is really unnecessary due to excellent public transportation options.

But if you do need to enter a city we have always been able to find convenient pay lots with the help of our GPS. These lots are straightforward and operate very similarly to those in the U.S.

You take a ticket from a machine when you enter a pay lot. Bring the ticket with you when you leave the car as you’ll insert it into a pay machine before leaving. After you’ve inserted the money, the machine will spit the ticket back to you. Keep the ticket as you’ll need it to exit the lot.

Parking in Italy — Blue lines indicate you can park and make a payment at a nearby pay machine.

When parking on the street white, blue and yellow lines designate parking places. White lines in most cases indicate free parking, but that can depend on the city so you’ll want to make sure it’s not permit parking only. Blue line parking spaces require payment at a pay machine. These spots require payment from 8 AM to 8 PM except Sundays and holidays when they’re free. Yellow markings are for authorized drivers only, such as the handicapped.

If you’re not sure about a parking space, just move on until it’s clear to you. The last thing you want is to have your vehicle towed.

How to Handle Roadside Emergencies in Italy

During our visits to Italy, we have never had a roadside emergency such as running out of gas, a flat tire, fender bender, etc. That said, it pays to know upfront how to handle such scenarios in case they happen.

When selecting which company to rent your vehicle from, make sure they offer 24/7 assistance. For example, Auto Europe prides itself on giving you peace of mind throughout your trip no matter where you decide to roam in Italy. If you need assistance, simply contact their support number at any time and follow their directions.

Another option is to call the Automobile Club D’Italia (ACI). The ACI provides 24-hour roadside assistance with English speaking operators to all drivers in Italy any day of the week. Contact ACI anytime by calling 803.116 from a landline or 800.116.800 from an international number. The ACI offers tows and roadside service without requiring you to be a member.

If you are unable to connect with your car rental provider or the ACI, it’s comforting to know that all major motorways in Italy have emergency phones located every mile. If you need mechanical assistance or emergency help, these phones will connect you with an emergency center.

You May Also Find this Post Useful: Travel Safety Tips & Accessories

Driving in Italy is An Adventure You Should Experience

Most vacationers visiting in Italy will never rent a car. That’s just fine if you’re only venturing into the major cities. But if you’re like us and want to devour all of Italy’s natural, cultural and historical nooks and crannies don’t let anyone talk you out of renting a car.

Yes, you may get lost for a bit or make a mistake that annoys another motorist. So what. Being anxious about driving in Italy for the first time is normal. But with this post and a little pre-trip prep you will be cruising Italian roads with ease in no time.

And if you are ever driving in Italy and discover the “steering wheel was screwed on backwards”, don’t sweat it. You’ll wind up in good hands and may just find yourself right at home in Italy. Right where you belong. Enjoying the simple and the beautiful.