South Tyrol Trip Tips

Helpful Italian Phrases for Your Travels

Part of the beauty of South Tyrol is its delicious blend of Austrian and Italian cultural influences. While the majority of locals speak German as their first language, many South Tyroleans are bilingual. This is immediately evident as you encounter signs in German and Italian upon entering the region.

You certainly do not need to know either language to visit South Tyrol; however, your trip will be more rewarding by becoming a little familiar with either one. If you like the sip-easy sound of the Italian language over the harsh swig of German dialect, this article is for you. We cover the basics, as well as give you useful Italian travel phrases.

Not sure if you should choose learning German or Italian? Here’s a quick word test using a traditional South Tyrolean delight — Fresh goat cheese in bacon crust. Do your best to speak each of the following:

Ziegenfrischkäse im Speckmantel
Caprino in crosta di Speck

Which one rolled off the tongue easier? If it was the first, you might prefer bratwurst over pizza and may want to head over to our helpful German phrases article.

Insider Tip: Before reading any further we’d like to point out that you can access a PDF of the Key Italian Phrases Guide and our German Phrases Guide in our FREE South Tyrol Travel Resources Library. We made it handy to print out or keep on your tablet or phone while traveling.

Don’t Be Brad Pitt – The Basics of Italian Pronunciation

Before diving into key Italian phrases it’s helpful to have a grasp on proper pronunciation. This will come in handy when running into specialties listed on a menu or when meeting someone, for example. After all, you don’t want to come off a like Brad Pitt when saying goodbye to your new Italian friends.

Here are some basic guidelines:

“A” is pronounced like the a in water
“I” like the “ee” in feet
“U” like the “oo” in boot
“C” before “i” or “e” is pronounced like a “ch”
“G” before an “i” or “e” like the “g” in “giraffe”
“H” is silent
“R” is almost always rolled…and almost always fun to say!
“Z” like the “ds” in “ads” at the beginning of the sentence, and like the “ts” in tents everywhere else
“Gli” sounds like the “lli” in billion, which sounds like “yee”
In general, emphasis is on the second-to-last syllable (i.e. “Arrivederci” is “ah-ree-vah-DAIR-chee”). This stress helps give the Italian language its poetic cadence
If the last letter of the word has an accent symbol, the emphasis is likely on the last syllable (i.e. perché is pear-kEH)

Saying Hello & Goodbye in Italian

Now that you know basic pronunciation, here are a handful of greetings you may hear or can use when interacting with the locals or travelers from Italy:

Benvenuto (Ben ven uto) – Welcome
Buongiorno (Bwohn journo) – Good morning or good day. Typically used until late afternoon
Buona sera (Bwohn ah say rah) – Good evening.
Buona notte (Bwohn ah nau-tay) – Good night. Use when to saying goodbye at night
Ciao (chow) – A common way to informally say hello or goodbye at any time of day
Salve (sahl vey) – The polite, formal way to say hello. Can be used any time of day
Arrivederci (ah-ree-vah-dair-chee) – The formal way to say goodbye

Simple Conversations in Italian

After starting a dialogue, you may want to inform the person that you speak a little Italian.

I understand a little Italian: “Io capisco un po l’Italiano” (EE-oh kah-PEES-koh oon poh lee-TAH-lyah-noh)

If you do not want to attempt any conversation in Italian, let the person know you do not speak any Italian.

I don’t speak Italian: “Non parlo Italiano” (non PAR-lo Italiano)

Then, you would want to follow this by asking them if they speak English.

Do you speak English?: “Parla Inglese?”(PAR-la ee-GLAY-zay)

If the person responds “No”, they do in fact mean “No”. “Yes” in Italian on the other hand is “Si” (see).

While in Italy you should know how to ask where something is located. Nothing is more important when nature calls and you are in the middle of a castle tour that is entirely in Italian. True story. Best told over vino (wine).

Where is?: “Dove’?” (doe VEH)
Where is the bathroom?: “Dove’ il bagno?” (doe VEH eel BHAN-yo).
Note: If you’re in a panic situation and these words evade you, trying yelling “Aiuto!” (I u-toh), which means “Help!”. Once help arrives, of the course the right thing to do is offer a “thank you”: “grazie” (GRAT-zee-yay)
Where is a restaurant?”: “Dove’ un ristorante?”(doe VEH oon rees toh-RAHN-tay)
Where is the main train station?”: Dove’ la stazione centrale?” (doe VEH lah stah-zee-oh-neh sen-trah-lay)
Where is the cable car?: “Dove’ la funivia?” (doe VEH lah foo-nih-vee-a)

Additional helpful Italian words and phrases include:

Quanto costa?: How much does it cost?
Per favore: Please
Prego: You’re welcome
Mi chiamo…: My name is…
Come ti chiami: What is your name?
Chi: Who?
Quando: When?
Cosa: What?
Perché: Why?
Destra (right), sinistra (left), dritto (straight)
Vicino (close), lontano (far)

Getting from Point A to Point B in Italian

When you’re wandering around South Tyrol, you’ll likely need to look for specific places or forms of transportation. Here are some of the most common terms you may need while on your adventure:

Arrivo: Arrival
Partenza: Departure
Programma: Schedule
Stazione ferroviari: Train station
Treno: Train
Quanto costa il biglietto: How much is the ticket?
Macchina: Car. Also known as auto
Noleggio auto: Car rental
Funivia: Cable car
Autobus: Bus
Aeroporto: Airport
Taxi: Taxi
Parcheggio: Parking
Cantina: Winery
Banca: Bank. Be sure to ask for a bancomat if you’re looking for an ATM
Mercato del contadino: Farmer’s market
Farmacia: Pharmacy
Panetteria: Bakery
Polizia: Police
Museo: Museum
Castello: Castle
Chiesa: Church
Uffico del Turismo: Office of Tourism
Supermercato: Grocery
Piazza: Town Square

Telling Time in Italian

Knowing how to tell time in Italy will really only be useful if you forget your watch or if your smartphone dies. In that case, this highly-instructional video shows you how to accurately ascertain the time when roaming the Italian countryside.

Che ore sono?: “What time is it?”

Know Your Numbers in Italian

Once you’ve made your way to the supermercato, panetteria or cantina, knowing numbers in Italian helps understand prices, order quantities, etc.

uno (1)
due (2)
tre (3)
quattro (4)
cinque (5)
sei (6)
sette (7)
otto (8)
nove (9)
dieci (10)
undici (11)
dodici (12)
tredici (13)
quattordici (14)
quindici (15)
seidici (16)
diciassette (17)
diciotto (18)
diciannove (19)
venti (20)
venticinque (25)
cinquanta (50)
settanta cinque (75)
cento (100)

Ordering Food & Drink in Italian

When visiting Italian-speaking places like South Tyrol, the last thing you want to struggle with is ordering food and drink. An Italian adventure without being able to fully savor its culinary treasures is what nightmares are made of. Here are some drinks you may wish to order:

vino: wine
vino bianco: white wine
vino rosso: red wine
birra: beer
acqua: water
caffè: coffee
latte: milk (If you are visiting South Tyrol, the milk from its traditional Alpine farmers is a must-try. Learn more in 12 Things to Know Before Visiting South Tyrol.)

Here are some Italian phrases that will help you while dining in Italy:

[Un] vino bianco per favore: One white wine please
[Tre] vini rossi per favore: Three red wines please

Note: Replace vini rossi with vino rosso for a single glass of red wine.

[Quattro] birra per favore: Four beers please

Note: Replace uno with una for a single glass of beer.

[Un] caffe con latte per favore: One coffee with milk please
Tavolo per [due] per favore: Table for two please
A che ora chiudete?: What time do you close?
A che ora apri?: What time do you open?
Hai un menu?: Do you have a menu?
Posso vedere la lista dei vini per favore?: Can I see the wine list please?
Quanto costa?: How much does it cost?
Quanto le devo?: How much do I owe?
Puoi scriverlo per favore?: Can you please write that down?
Posso avere il conto per favore?: Can I have the bill please?
Posso pagare in contanti?: May I pay with cash?
Posso pagare con la carta di credito?: May I pay with credit card?

If you’re traveling all the way to Italy, there’s a good chance you’ll treat yourself to gelato. To make sure you’re ready, we highly recommend checking out the Lazy Italian’s post specifically dedicated to the art of ordering gelato. Enjoying an authentic pizza is equally likely to be top of mind during your trip. ITALY magazine has a nice piece on what you can expect when ordering pizza.

Additional Italian Language Resources

Coffee Break Italian Podcast: This podcast has free and members-only versions. While there are additional bonus materials available to members, the free podcast is exceptional. Out of the three resources we mention here, this is the most beneficial for travel in Italian-speaking regions. Another advantage to this podcast is that the hosts provide details on grammar, cultural nuggets, review past lessons and break down the language. If you do not have any Italian language experience, we recommend starting with episode 1.
Duolingo: Duolingo is a fun and easy way to begin learning Italian. It requires 5 minutes a day. Not only does Duolingo provide lessons, but you can engage in short, situational chats to practice responses. As you progress, Duolingo provides a percentage fluency score that helps to see how well you are progressing.
Pimsleur Italian Language Program: Older versions of the audiobooks are usually available at public libraries and are a great way to learn a language during your commute. Depending on your skill level, there are a variety of programs you can select. The program is also available on Audible.

We’ve learned that the most important part of learning a new language is not to judge yourself too harshly or to take yourself too seriously. Sure you may get frustrated, but just remind yourself that you’re on vacation after all.

You’re going to make mistakes and sound silly. Everyone does. Learning a new language is very challenging, so be patient with yourself. Keep in mind that most Italians are just as self conscious and apologetic for their English as you are for your Italian.

TAP TO SAVE FOR LATER!

The Most Enchanting Walk in Italy

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

How does one find the most enchanting walk in Italy — a country blessed from mountain to sea with so much rich history and natural splendor you could wander a lifetime and never cover it all? It starts with a glass of wine. What good story doesn’t really?

Our Italian vacation began in Milan with us wandering over the course of a week through Venice and Verona until arriving for our final chapter in South Tyrol. Venice and Verona were postcard perfect, but we didn’t develop a serious case of jaw-dropping wonder until rolling into Italy’s best kept secret.

As we drove north, South Tyrol’s dramatic Alpine scenery unfolded into lush blessings of vineyards and orchards flourishing among towering castles, Gothic spires, Roman ruins and the wooing Italian sun.

Vino with a View

A late afternoon mist welcomed our arrival at Hotel Partaneshof. The sight of the hotel did not disappoint. Its chalet-style design charmed us immediately. The hotel’s rich wooden adornments warmly complemented its setting among terraced grape vines tumbling into an orchard. We were smitten.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offers an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite for us after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona.

Hotel Partaneshof in Merano, Italy — Nestled among vineyards and orchards, Hotel Partaneshof offers access to a variety of breathtaking walks in Merano.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of wine from the Partaneshof cellar. After hustling a better part of the day, unwinding with a South Tyrolean vino was too enticing to pass up. Our room came with a balcony facing a wide open view of the Texel Mountains and valley. We lounged back in chairs and savored the view over a glass of white wine. If there was better place to sit and ponder how we were going spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was was too perfect.

Prior to coming, we had read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade — a popular 2.5 mile path offering expansive views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures shared, we agreed. A long walk in the morning along the promenade sounded good to us both.

With our Merano itinerary made, we sat in silence watching the burning embers of dusk magically light the mountain crests. Our wine bottle went dry. Did we order another? You better believe it.

Sunsetting in Merano, Italy — The autumn sun setting behind the mountains of Merano is sight you’ll never forget.

Wander O’Clock

Just beyond, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold.

In the morning a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast of mountain-born cold cuts, freshly baked breads and yogurt topped with local berries met a quick end at our table. While it was tempting to linger in the sunlight pouring into the terrace, our wanderlust hearts were aching to explore.

We had no idea where to find the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running above Merano along the slope of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know it was several hundred feet above our hotel.

The map designated multiple places to enter the promenade. Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town by roaming the Winter Promenade and crossing the Passer River. From there, Merano’s Summer Promenade connects to the Gilf Promenade and then Tappeiner. Taking this route would allow us to see more than one promenade with the option to venture on various walks beyond.

Merano By Morning Light

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes, noting to stroll down its cobbled stone goodness later.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River meandering down the Winter Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of year, but is especially delightful in the winter when its sunny exposure washes away the chill. It carried us past rows of palm trees crowning flower beds, bustling riverside cafes and Merano’s celebrated Kurhaus — an Art Nouveau masterpiece from the 1800s that now hosts concerts.

Just beyond, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. This is the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, an elegant bridge with a wrought iron balustrade beautified by sunlit fleur de lis and grape vine motifs.

We crossed over the bridge and saw the Summer Promenade beginning to our left. But the curiously austere exterior of the 14th century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito next to it lured us in for a quick visit. Inside a solemn silence welcomed us. We were alone. Three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes reverently conceived more than 700 years ago. These precious historical treasures lit by candle flame hauntingly held our eyes. Such places have an alluring energy — where past and present harmonize in a timeless stillness.

Following in the Footsteps of an Empress

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”. She was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Diamond glimmers from the morning's dew illuminated a myriad of luxuriant subtropical plants, elegantly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. Clearly, the Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudly from this promenade.

Sissi frequently visited Merano to unwind. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. A pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Empress Sissi and the Winter Promenade in Merano — Empress Sissi helped fashion Merano into a walker’s paradise in the 19th century.

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was a favorite activity of Sissi’s. Thus it’s fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk. Quite often we have seen Merano roses placed within her hands by an unknown admirer.

While the Winter Promenade bathed us in heavenly sunlight the Summer Promenade’s towering sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into the tree cover. Here, nature bestowed on us a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leafy canopy above. Walking along, the path gently sloped closer to the rushing river splashing soothing notes to various birds lost in song.

A Bridge Back in Time

The Summer Promenade is not very long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the mighty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

We ambled on the bridge stopping midway to admire the river roaring underneath. On the right side a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge. Built in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned. But don’t fret. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another throne to claim is not difficult.

Awash in Lushness

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Winter and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward. Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The lushness around us was like an open-air conservatory.

Diamond glimmers from the morning’s dew illuminated a myriad of luxuriant subtropical plants, elegantly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. Clearly, the Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudly from this promenade. We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Vast tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliff side.

After soaking up the romantically strewn view, we continued on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork of an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

Traversing the Tappeiner Promenade

We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steals a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and the chain of snow-kissed mountains swooping skyward from the valley floor.

It was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. His vision is a gift to visitors today. Immaculately manicured flower gardens litter the entire promenade punctuated with giant magnolias, cypresses, olive trees, palmettos and more. A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

Beyond the breathtaking panoramas riddled between the verdant veils, the Tappeiner Promenade offered us more sights to take in as we ventured onward.

The first was a crenellated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the imposing Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements’ commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

A Steeple to Steal Your Heart

We wandered down and proceeded along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steals a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. The tower possessed such a presence that if the sun refused to shine, glorious light would no doubt still fall upon Merano.

From this vantage point, we could discern details of its intricate clock and sundial. Many medieval towers bear a similar look, but the Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. The exquisite vision, craftsmanship and artistry it took to build the church in the 13th and 14th century makes it a medieval marvel to behold.

The Saxifraga restaurant offers walkers an inviting place to rest along the Tappeiner Promenade.

After putting our camera into overdrive, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels and stately villas with pools divine for dipping in. While we were not hungry yet, we passed a handful of restaurants and cafes that presented the ideal place to ease back and absorb the surroundings. One particularly charming place was Saxifraga. Enshrouded in lush Mediterranean vegetation, the restaurant’s Alpine design peeks through inviting a seat in a wonderfully contrasting setting.

Savoring Saintly Scents

Our next stop along the promenade dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Set off the path laid a colorful garden flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants woven into the landscape.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from some celestial entity.

We floated through inhaling aromas of rosemary, thyme and other exotic scents. The fragrant beds had a calming effect slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine by us. If there’s one place where you should take your time it is on this walk.

Getting Lost in a Leafy Labyrinth

Eventually the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grape vines now surrounded us from above and below. Unlike the cliche image of Italian vineyards stiffly spanning rolling fields, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades, made from rustic porticos with only the foliage of the vine visible.

Vineyards in Merano, Italy — Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade surrounds walkers in an arcade of vineyards.

South Tyrol’s vine painted slopes amid the pure white snow summits makes vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from some celestial entity. One’s heart flutters at the sight of such inﬁnite beauty. And when the leaves softly sway you can be forgiven for thinking its the breath of heaven upon them.

A Walker’s Paradise

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — The Brunnenburg Castle beckons walkers from a cliff north of the Tappeiner Promenade.

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Tirol Castle, loomed from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, on a glacial moraine, the Brunnenburg Castle beckoned with its multi-turreted tower that looked as if Tolkien himself had written it into the mountainside.

But before meandering to its magnificence, we came across an ivy clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

We sat in Cafe Unterweger’s sunny patio clinging to the cliff side. The bountiful orchards and vineyards of the Merano Basin valley held our eyes. The scent of ripe fruit caressed Alpine winds softly bathing us in the sweet fragrance of harvest. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation while sipping a Veneziano, a regionally-celebrated cocktail.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. We decided to continue the castle trek later. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another mouth-pleasing South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view we had found just the right place for it.

Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies being pushed in strollers to elderly-aged people walking their dogs. And if you’re not feeling up to walking back to where you started, no worries. Merano offers several bus shuttles at various points throughout the area. The public transportation in South Tyrol is world class.

If enchantment is in your future, access our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. It provides tips on how to get to South Tyrol, where to stay, how to save money and more.

SEE YOU ON THE SUNNY SIDE OF THE ALPS! TAP TO PIN IT!

12 Things to Know Before Visiting South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 25 Comments

Is your wanderlust heart pulling you to the sunny side of the Alps? In case you haven’t heard, South Tyrol is beyond a doubt Italy’s best kept secret. This mountainous haven crowning the far north offers more cultural diversity andcontrasting natural beauty than anywhere else in Europe.

If you’re one of the lucky few jetting off to this hidden gem, you’ve come to the right place. Our goal is to make it easy to plan your escape! Below are 12 things worth knowing before visiting South Tyrol.

1. Buongiorno or Guten Morgen?

Right about now you may be wondering why there is a German phrase in an article about visiting Italy.

Nearly 70% of South Tyroleans speak German as their first language while 25% speak Italian and 5% speak Ladin. The result of this linguistic plate of spaghetti is that you’ll encounter road signs, menus and more featuring both German and Italian.

Additionally, you’ll see and hear an ancient language called Ladin while frolicking through the Dolomites. As an example: .

St. Ulrich (German)
Ortisei (Italian)
Urtijëi (Ladin)

All are the name of the same town. This is how you will see signs posted in the Dolomites.

Sound confusing? It’s not if you prepare a bit before arriving.

While you really don’t need to know much German or Italian to enjoy your visit in South Tyrol, you’ll get more out of your trip if you familiarize yourself with key words and phrases. Most locals are bilingual so they will appreciate you making the effort. We recommend picking the language that comes easiest to you and sticking to it throughout your trip. This will simplify everything from navigating roadways to ordering vino or wein if you prefer!

2. Adventure Tailor-Made For You

We’ve spoken with several travelers longing to experience South Tyrol, but worry the lofty beauty of the Alps and the Dolomites is beyond their reach given their older age or fitness level. Nothing could be further from the truth.

South Tyrol ingeniously makes its breathtaking scenery available to everyone. Thanks to state-of-the-art lift systems set across the region, the young and old, skilled and unskilled, can partake in a multitude of activities among the peaks in every season. The degree of heart-pounding adventure is up to you.

And if you’re worried about getting lost because your only sense of direction is up or down, South Tyrol even takes care of that for you. Trails are clearly marked with abundant sign posts directing your next step.

Not all travelers like the idea of a cable car swiftly whisking them up several thousand feet. If that’s you, don’t despair. In many areas, you can hop in a funicular to roll up and down the mountainside.

You could visit South Tyrol and no doubt spend all of your time in the heights of the Dolomites, but you’d be missing out on the charm of wandering along South Tyrol’s Waalwegs. We absolutely recommend hiking these paths. They follow ancient water channels that gently ease upward through countless orchards, vineyards, forests and meadows in the Merano area and the Venosta/Vinschgau Valley.

While meandering you’ll enjoy the melody of snow-born water flowing at your feet and encounter crumbling castles, wayside shrines, quaint churches and every other storybook scene you can imagine…minus the trolls! Waalwegs offer one of the best ways to immerse yourself in South Tyrol’s colliding Alpine and Mediterranean climates.

3. Encounter Wines of Another Kind

South Tyrol, known by many as the “land of wines”, could also be known for elevating wine making into an art form. Over the last 3,000 years South Tyrol’s wine artisans perfected practices to help vines flourish on the mountainsides. Vineyards now cascade along sun-kissed slopes producing award-winning wine and scenery ripe for a Monet masterpiece.

While you should no doubt indulge in the well-known classics of this region such as Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, broaden your wine horizons by uncorking lesser known Alpine gems native to South Tyrol. This includes Lagrein, Vernatsch (also commonly referred to as Schiava) and Gewürztraminer.

Gewürztraminer, originally from Tramin, a sleepy wine village in southern South Tyrol, is an aromatic and expressive white wine unlike any other. Be sure to try a glass or bottle of Gewürztraminer from the “Queen of Gewürztraminer”, Elena Walch. It is unforgettable.

Another white you may not be familiar with, but you should definitely seek out while visiting South Tyrol is Pinot Bianco (also known as Weissburgunder). A close relative to Pinot Grigio, South Tyrol (Alto Adige if you prefer the official Italian designation for the region) produces the best Pinot Bianco in the world.

You can read more about our encounter with this delightful wine during our visit at Nals Margreid Winery.

4. Roam Where Your Heart Tells You

South Tyrol’s public transportation system is affordable and world class; however, your best option for freely exploring South Tyrol is renting a car. This allows you to discover the countryside at your own pace and explore off-the-beaten path gems others miss.

South Tyrol’s roadways are immaculate and navigating them is fairly straightforward. And with today’s modern GPS units you can get step-by-step voice directions to take you anywhere without any hassle.

If you’re concerned about whether you can handle driving in Italy, don’t be. Anyone with a bit of common sense and some pre-trip planning can easily handle Italian roads. We put together a comprehensive Driving in Italy Checklist to ensure you’re ready along with cheatsheets you can quickly reference while on Italy’s roadways.

5. Slow Down, Way Down

One of the most charming aspects of South Tyrol is how it detoxifies the mind, body and soul. The immense natural beauty and joyful celebration of cultural traditions invites you to slow down and soak in your immediate surroundings.

Embrace this invitation. You will not regret it. We’ve always found South Tyrol’s slow travel and slow food appeal hard to resist even when we’re pining for the view over the next mountain top.

6. Farm to Table is a Way of Life Not a Movement

With more castles than any other part of Europe, South Tyrol undoubtedly draws from centuries of serving royalty to wow travelers at the table. In fact, the region is the culinary star of Italy — possessing more Michelin-starred restaurants than anywhere else.

South Tyrol’s delicious blend of Tyrolean, German and Italian cultures, launches your palate on a delectable journey through a myriad of influences. The cuisine is strongly rooted in a farm-to-table mindset that is much more a way of life than a movement. With every bite and sip it’s clear South Tyrloeans cherish their land.

A trip to South Tyrol is not complete without devouring hearty Alpine culinary delights like smoked speck and dumplings, called canederli or knödel. Combined they make a savory dish known as speckknödel, which is also served as a soup and may just be the best forking meal in South Tyrol!

Speck is one of South Tyrol’s most revered foods and is integral to countless Alpine recipes not to mention a favorite companion to pizza. So what the heck is speck? Speck is a smoked, cured ham that is born from blending traditional Northern European smoking methods with the outdoor curing practices of the Mediterranean.

Of course no one should visit South Tyrol without satisfying their sweet tooth. A tasty dessert you’ll come to crave is Buchteln — a traditional South Tyrolean marmalade-filled pastry served in vanilla cream.

Another delight you won’t be able to ignore are the delectable wafers and snacks from Loacker.

Founded in 1925 in Bolzano, Loacker’s mountain-size goodness isn’t a surprise considering the Dolomites sit in their backyard. Their products honor classic family traditions using only the best natural ingredients without any artificial colors or flavors. We love loading up our backpacks with Loacker goodies before hitting the trails!

Want to try them before visiting South Tyrol? You’re in luck! Go to the Loacker website to find out where they are sold near you.

Numerous farmers’ markets take place throughout South Tyrol offering the ideal introduction to local specialties. Taking the time to browse these markets is a must. You’ll discover a variety of homemade breads and rolls, fragrant herbs, honeys, jams, as well as exceptional Alpine craftsmanship with unique items such as hand-woven baskets, wood carvings, traditional attire, religious artifacts and holiday decor.

Beyond the streetside markets, plan to visit a Pur Südtirol store. With locations in Bolzano, Merano, Brunico and Lana, these stores showcase a treasure trove of South Tyrolean goods. Inside you can browse more than 1,800 products from local farms.

7. Venture Beyond the Vino

While it will be tempting to complement all your meals with South Tyrolean wine, we’d be doing you a disservice if we didn’t tell you about South Tyrol’s milk. It is the Alpine nectar of the gods! Another must-try while visiting South Tyrol. If you’re not wowed after your first sip, modern life may have permanently dulled your taste buds.

Of course when the milk is out of this world, it’s only natural that the cheese would follow suit. With over 200 varieties to savor, here’s a list of celebrated South Tyrol cheeses to get you started.

Your culinary journey doesn’t end with milk and cheese however. South Tyrol is Europe’s apple orchard. Be sure to get your fill on the deliciousness South Tyrol’s apple-tree filled valleys drop to the earth. While you’re at it pour yourself a glass of the region’s apple juice (called apfelsaft). The smooth sweetness it imparts on your lips will call to you long after you’ve left South Tyrol.

8. A Sun-Drenched Paradise with Mountain-size Mood Swings

South Tyrol bathes in 300 days of sunshine per year. All that heavenly light bestows on travelers an Alpine-Mediterranean oasis ripe for adventure and relaxation.

But even with its sunny disposition, South Tyrol’s weather can be a bit unpredictable. This should be no surprise considering majestic Alpine peaks punctuate nearly every corner. Travelers simply need to be mindful of this when embarking on outdoor adventures. It’s best to pack rain gear or snow gear depending on when you’re visiting.

We were once caught in a spring rain storm while hiking along a Waalweg. When we set out on the trail, it was a picture perfect day with a just a few clouds lingering above us. Two hours later that all changed. Rain came out of nowhere. An ungodly amount of it. We were forced to sprint for 15 minutes to a hut set off the trail.

Fortunately, the host at the hut removed the chill from our bones with ample amounts of Schnapps. That of course led to another unanticipated adventure: hiking back to the trail head on liquor-challenged legs.

Don’t be like us. At a minimum, we recommend tossing an umbrella in your backpack when visiting in the spring, summer and fall.

9. Matters of Money

The currency in South Tyrol is the Euro. We recommend obtaining Euros from an ATM (called Bancomat) or bank when in Italy. ATMs are abundant. Even in South Tyrol’s most quaint villages. The majority of shops, restaurants and hotels accept ATM cards and credit cards. Don’t bother exchanging your cash at an exchange booth in an airport as you will not receive the best deal.

If you’re ever not clear on the true cost of an item when looking at its price, download a money converting app onto your smartphone. There are plenty of free ones in your app store.

South Tyrol is incredibly credit card friendly. In most cases, you can get by at all times by using a credit card with a chip. However, we recommend carrying some cash as it’s much easier when making a purchase at a street or trail side food stand or at any of the many open air markets you’ll no doubt want to explore.

When selecting a credit card for your trip be sure to understand if it charges international transaction fees. We recommend using a card that doesn’t charge any, but you may have a card that offers other perks which outweigh any fees incurred while visiting South Tyrol.

Since we’re talking about money you may be wondering how expensive it is to visit South Tyrol. The region is surprisingly affordable. Prices are only slightly higher than Italy on average. You can find a wealth of accommodations fitting a wide range of budgets and tastes. If you want to save money easily, simply stay off-the-beaten path in the less touristy areas.

Tipping is not expected in South Tyrol; however, it is common to round up the bill if you had a pleasant experience.

10. Stay Safe – Respect the Mountains

When talking about safety, we’re not addressing anything related to crime. South Tyrol is very safe in that respect. Unlike other destinations in Europe and Italy, we never feel compelled to wear a money belt or avoid certain areas. That is simply not an issue here. The safety concerns we want you to be aware of pertain to enjoying South Tyrol’s vast outdoor playground.

Much of South Tyrol’s beauty stems from opposing forces of nature. It’s important to wear the proper gear and be mindful of weather conditions as we noted above. That means hiking in sandals isn’t wise and venturing onto questionable cliffs or unmarked areas is just plain stupid. You don’t need to risk injury or your life to capture that next rock star Instagram photo.

Our South Tyrol Resource Library includes a hiking checklist that helps ensure you stay safe while consuming South Tyrol’s great outdoors. We genuinely want you to have the adventure of a lifetime and that means using common sense and respecting nature.

11. South Tyrol’s 5th Season

Since we’re talking about nature, let’s discuss seasons. South Tyrol has five of them. All are immeasurably enjoyable in their own way, but there is one that stands apart from the others: Törggelen. Törggelen is an age-old tradition that celebrates South Tyrol’s wine harvest. It begins in October and ends around the start of the Christmas season.

During Törggelen, South Tyrol’s farmers introduce their new wines. These festive celebrations include pairings with roasted chestnuts and traditional South Tyrolean dishes. And best of all, live music inspires a jovial atmosphere that is as infectious as the wine being poured.

If you can time your visit during Törggelen, you’ll get to experience an historic cultural treasure that rivals the scenery around you.

12. A Land So Fiercely Enchanting You’ll Be Back

The final thing we’d like to share with you is a friendly word of caution. After visiting South Tyrol, you may just fall in love. Hard. South Tyrol is a place where the land, the people and their passions capture your heart. Forever.

If you’re like us, you may toss out your travel wish list and put South Tyrol at the center of all your adventures.

Don’t fret trying to see all of South Tyrol all during visit. You won’t be able to. Pick 2 to 3 main areas to explore and trust that you will be back.

Creating a list of things to see and do while visiting South Tyrol could swallow up all the pages on the Internet, but it’s our hope our brief list gives you a good start. Subscribe to our email updates and follow us on social media to discover more of the wonders of South Tyrol.

If you have any questions on something we didn’t cover, please leave them in the comments below. Also, don’t forget to sign up for our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Inside you’ll find useful tips and checklists to help save time and money while you plan your trip to South Tyrol.

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Discovering Bolzano – The Gateway to the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 48 Comments

With snow-kissed Dolomite peaks boldly calling in the distance and vineyards and castles punctuating every surrounding hillside, Bolzano wraps its arms around you and seductively whispers an indelible blend of German, Austrian and Italian influences deep into your being.

Tucked between Innsbruck to the north and Trento to the south, Bolzano—or Bozen if you prefer the roll of a German tongue—is a must-see for any traveler touring northern Italy. The capital of Italy’s South Tyrol region, the city is an Alpine-Mediterranean jewel amidst one of Europe’s top hidden gems.

Often referred to as “The Gateway to the Dolomites”, the quality of life in Bolzano ranks at the top in Italy. No surprise considering it’s the perfect size, balancing all the perks of a vibrant, youthful city with old world charm and sensibilities. Its inviting cobblestone avenues dotted with cafes, pubs and shops welcome your every step. The city reveals centuries of influences and bears a history rivaling Rome with a man lost in ice for thousands of years and a gravely connection to the real-life Dracula.

Here’s how to make the most of a day in South Tyrol’s most cosmopolitan city:

Morning the Mediterranean Way

Head to the historic center of the city. Start your day with a hot chocolate, cappuccino or tea at one of Bolzano’s cozy street side cafes. The Mediterranean climate in this part of South Tryol makes enjoying morning’s light next to divine. Sit back and watch the city come to life. Go full South Tyrolean by ordering up a freshly-baked krapfen. Krapfen is a doughnut-like pastry filled with apricot or jam marmalade. Careful, as one may turn into two.

While relaxing install the BZMobile app — the official guide to the city of Bolzano — on your smart phone. The app lets you flip through a comprehensive list of attractions, restaurants, walks and more. Now take a deep breath. It’s okay. You’re not going to see everything Bolzano offers in one day — this is a dolce vita town made for stopping and smelling the roses.

Now is a good time to plan to stay in the area longer. If that’s doable, consider obtaining the Bolzano Bozen Card. This card is complimentary at participating hotels and provides free access to numerous museums in Bolzano and 90 other museums throughout South Tyrol. Included with the card are English-speaking city tours and guided excursions to the Dolomites National Park, along with free use of all public transportation throughout South Tyrol.

The Poetic Heart of Bolzano

The best way to discover a city is through its culinary traditions. You can embark on such a mouth pleasing adventure through the Bolzano Street Food Tour. This 2 ½ hour outing begins at 10:00 a.m. and includes 5 stops where you’ll indulge in local specialties such as bread, sausage, sweets, as well as historical nuggets shared by your tour guide.

If you enjoyed one too many krapfens, a morning food tour may not be for you. In that case, set off on your own to see some of Bolzano’s treasured sights. The perfect starting point is the city’s “living room” or Waltherplatz, which is the town square.

At the center looms a remarkable statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, a renowned poet and Minnesinger from the Middle Ages believed to have been born in South Tyrol. Sculpted in 1889 from South Tyrol’s celebrated Lasser marble, the statue stands on an impressive fountain encircled by flowers.

DIVE DEEPER: READ WHY WE CONSIDER WALTHER TO BE THE SPIRIT BEHIND ROCK & ROLL

Walther Square in Bolzano, the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide — Walther Square in Bolzano and the remarkable monument of Walther von der Vogelweide.

The Waltherplatz is the ideal spot for lingering and people watching. From late November to early January, it hosts one of Italy’s largest Christmas markets. The square comes alive like a wintry fairy tale with puppet shows, decadent pastries, mulled wine, horse-drawn carriage rides and 80+ stalls of seasonal gifts, treats and crafts. If you’re visiting at this time, we highly recommend taking public transportation instead of driving due to the popularity of this market.

The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes Bolzano a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you've left.

From the square, it’s impossible to miss the Gothic-Romanesque cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, which is the largest Gothic church in South Tyrol. The cathedral was originally constructed in the 12th century and took on its Gothic form in the 14th century. It has an ornately patterned roof to match the vibrancy of the square and a steepled bell tower chiseled skyward. The stonework is striking. Two weathered lions guard its entrance and form the base of two columns supporting an archway. A massively forged door with curious carvings of the Isarco river and the Dolomites welcomes worshipers.

Inside, lovers of medieval art can enjoy frescoes from the 1300s and marvel at the cathedral’s stunningly sculpted pulpit, which was completed in 1507.

Where the Streets Have No Lame

Leaving the cathedral, head to the Via Portici (also called Laubengasse) just north of the square. This was the very first street in Bolzano. A pulsating center of trade for nearly 1,000 years, arcaded shops now greet you on both sides. While the shops are fun to explore, the real treat is admiring the colorful facades. They exhibit a melodic blend of Italian and German architectural influences.

Along Via Portici, you’ll also find the Mercantile Museum and Mercantile Palace founded by Claudia de‘ Medici. This is the only Renaissance style building in Bolzano. It once served as a court of justice for the Mercantile Court. Today, the museum tells the fascinating story of Bolzano’s economic importance through the centuries.

After consuming so much history, art and architecture it’s only natural to settle in for a long lunch. Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele. A cultural gem of Bolzano, the establishment was first mentioned in 1277 and held secret gatherings in World War II. Gaining entrance to these meetings required whispering “Vögele”, which means “little bird”.

Wirsthaus Vögele is a member of Sudtiroler Gasthaus — an organization dedicated to carefully preserving South Tyrolean restaurant culture and quality. The restaurant conjures a cozy atmosphere with a winding assortment of dining rooms each offering their own ambiance.

If you visit during asparagus season in April or May, be sure to try a dish with “spargel”. Our asparagus risotto was as good as a sweetly sung melody from Walther von der Vogelweide himself!

Experience a true South Tyrolean meal with a glass of the region’s celebrated wine at Wirtshaus Vögele.

An Afternoon with the Ancient

After lunch, head west on Via Portici. You’re about to go back in time…way back. You’ll eventually come to the home of Bolzano’s most famous resident at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. At the age of 5,300 years old, Ötzi the Iceman is a remarkably well-preserved corpse. Mummified naturally by glacier ice, he’s the oldest intact human body ever found. He was discovered by two hikers in 1991 on a mountainside in South Tyrol’s Ötztal Alps.

Analysis of his body indicates an arrow cut ole Ötzi’s life short. Fortunately, that type of hospitality has long left South Tyrol. If Ötzi were alive today no doubt he would be the leader of a biker gang. Scientists discovered 61 tattoos across his body. We highly recommend buying your tickets online before you go. Check out Europe Up Close’s Guide on visiting Otzi.

Viewing Otzi at Bolzano's South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology — Encounter the face of an ancient. The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology shelters 5,300 year-old Ötzi.

Head back to the city center to the Piazza delle Erbe, a lively marketplace since 1295. Spend some time browsing the stalls overflowing with fresh fruits, vegetables and other specialties. If you walk away without picking up some delicious snacks you’ll be insulting a 700+ year tradition!

Enjoy a 360-degree view of the Piazza delle Erbe

From the market, wander north along the Franziskanergasse to the Franciscan Friary. Founded in 1221, the friary contains a Gothic church, chapel and cloisters with frescoes dating back to the 14th century.

It is believed Saint Francis attended mass in the Chapel while accompanying his cloth merchant father on a business trip to Bolzano. Another legend also enshrouds the friary albeit one much more nightmarish. The funeral stone and tomb of the real-life Dracula’s grandson forever marks its hallowed walls.

The tomb of Dracula's grandson in Bolzano, Italy — Tread lightly. The funeral stone of Dracula’s grandson never takes its eyes off you.

Beyond Old Town Bolzano

If your day has not been consumed by the old town charms of Bolzano, you can either hop back in your car or rent a bike for a 25 minute ride to the Messner Mountain Museum Firmian located within Sigmundskron Castle. Just 4 miles southeast of Bolzano’s city center, this museum explores the relationship between man and mountain as inspired by the legendary climber Reinhold Messner (check out this piece about why Messner is the world’s great living man).

Next, you can venture up to the ancient ruins of Schloss Rafenstein, which watch over the city of Bolzano. Enjoy some of the South Tyrolean treats you picked up earlier as you admire the views. Then head over to Castel Roncolo (Schloss Runkelstein), also known as the Painted Castle (note: the castle is also accessible from the Talvera-Promenade in the city center or the line 12 shuttle bus from Waltherplatz). This well-preserved 12th century castle showcases frescoes inside and out lending a colorful window back to life in medieval times.

Castle Runkelstein / Castle Roncolo — Castel Roncolo is a well-preserved 12th century fortress that lends a colorful window back to life in medieval times.

After touring its museum, you can grab dinner at the restaurant within the castle or head back to the city center to dine at Gasthaus Fink, which also belongs to Sudtiroler Gasthaus. Either way order a glass of Lagrein as you’re in the home of this robustly flavored, but smooth wine.

If castles are not your thing, another option in the afternoon is to catch the Ritten/Renon cable car. It whisks you high above Bolzano to the Ritten / Renon high plateau. From up here, you can hike a variety of trails and soak in wide open views of the Dolomites’ Rosengarten and Schlern massifs. You can also trek to the surreal 25,000 year old Earth pyramids. These odd natural formations look like stone thorns piercing the mountainside. An almost eerie sight you will not forget.

The San Genesio cable car offers a climb to even more hiking paths. This is home to the Haflinger horse which is a blonde horse breed born in the mountains of South Tyrol. Visit nearby stables and book a horseback ride or let someone else take the reins and enjoy the views from a horse-drawn carriage. Numerous alpine huts dot the trails allowing you stop for a meal and a drink.

The multi-hued autumn colors are the perfect time for relaxing walks along the Renon Chestnut Trail, with views of the Rosengarten mountain.

Getting to Bolzano

If you’re visiting other northern Italy destinations such as Venice or Lake Como, Bolzano is an easy trip add-on. It’s just 2 to 3 hours away by car, bus or train. Arriving by car is utterly gorgeous. Check out our guide on driving in Italy to ensure you’re ready.

We recommend parking on the outskirts of the city center. The Parcheggio Mareccio is a convenient lot located off Via Claudia de’ Medici with the 13th century Maretsch Castle as its backdrop. The castle is now an event center, but tourists can visit when events are not taking place. Its tower boasts one of the best views of Bolzano.

From this lot you can easily be in the center of Bolzano within a 10 minute walk. On your way back to your car, opt for a scenic stroll along the “Meadows of Talvera”, a beautiful park set along the river Talvera.

Our first exposure to Bolzano left us craving more and we’re certain yours will too. The perfect harmonization of centuries-old charm with a stylish eye toward tomorrow makes the city a cultural treasure that calls to you long after you’ve left. If you’re like us, you may just want to make Bolzano, Italy your new home!

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for arranging our lovely tour with our guide Luciano Rech. We highly recommend him. Learn more about tour options here.

Have you been to Bolzano? Let us know what you enjoyed the most in the comments below.

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The Ötzi photos provided courtesy of South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology.

Brixen, Italy – Alpine Charm Adorned in Light

By Kate & Vin 28 Comments

When a town offers visitors more than 1,000 years of history, it’s difficult imagining how it could become more mesmerizing. But the internationally acclaimed French light artists Spectaculaires – Allumeurs d’Images have done just that with one of South Tyrol’s most lovely mountain gems.

Through state-of-the-art lighting effects, these visual wizards transform Brixen’s (also known as Bressanone) historic architecture twice a year into an even more enchanting landscape.

During the holiday season visitors to Brixen’s cozy Christmas market can also be whisked away to a fantasy world through a production called “Soliman’s Dream”. Taking place in the courtyard of the 13th century Bishop’s Palace (Hofburg), the show dazzles ones eyes and ears by creatively re-imagining the time when Brixen welcomed a most unusual guest: an elephant.

In 1551, Soliman, a magnificent Asian bull, was on the last leg of his long journey from Portugal to Vienna. A gift from King John III of Portugal to his nephew, Archduke Maximilian of Austria, Soliman no doubt needed a rest before continuing his trek through the Alps to his new home in the north.

Brixen welcomed him with open arms. Arriving in the village just before Christmas, an innkeeper provided a home for the young bull for 14 days. Those two weeks left quite an impression on this charming medieval hamlet. Nearly 500 years later, Brixen still celebrates Soliman’s journey.

An unforgettable event that artistically transforms this 1,000+ year old town at the speed of light.

In fact, the inn where Soliman stayed still stands and welcomes guests to this day. Appropriately named Hotel Elephant, a centuries-old fresco on the oldest part of the hotel’s facade continues to tell the tale of what was certainly an exotic and magical creature to the residents of Brixen at the time.

Hotel Elephant in Brixen, Italy — A 16th-century fresco on Hotel Elephant celebrates Soliman’s historic journey. Photo courtesy of hotelelephant.com

Celebrating Water through Light

On our visit to Brixen this past spring we were lucky enough to enjoy another show by the Spectaculaires – Allumeurs d’Images called “WoW – World of Water”. The production was part of the town’s Water Light Festival. An unforgettable event that artistically transforms this 1,000+ year old town at the speed of light.

For nearly three weeks in May, the heart of Brixen comes alive at night with an hypnotic array of lights fused with water and artwork. The festival includes concerts and 20 fountains elegantly adorned in light throughout the historic center of Brixen.

The festival attractions are connected by a blue line, which allowed us to easily wander the oldest streets in all of South Tyrol.

Plunging into a World of Water

Just after dusk we settled into a quaint courtyard (formerly part of a prison) located next to The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Cassiano (the largest church in Brixen and first erected in 980), to watch the Spectaculaires – Allumeurs d’Images show.

The four walls surrounding us soon ignited into a myriad of colors in rhythmic harmony with the show’s beautifully arranged music by the Spanish artist izOReL. Swirling images celebrating the joy of water came to life before us. Waves of notes and scenes immersed in watery hues washed over our eyes and ears.

Within no time it was clear that “WoW” was an apt name for this remarkable production. The riveting blend of music and imagery amidst the backdrop of ancient walls created a true sense of wonder.

Taking photos and video of the show is not only permitted, but encouraged. Below you’ll find a few of our favorite images — poetically illustrating the value of water in our world.

Let Enchantment Be Your Guide

Brixen beams with charm no matter the season, but the holidays are an especially beautiful time in this corner of South Tyrol. Wandering the town’s Christmas market you’ll find an endless assortment of enticing traditional South Tyrolean specialties, as well as handmade creations that highlight the Alpine craftsmanship of artisans from the region. No doubt perfect gifts for loved ones in your life.

If you have the opportunity to catch Soliman’s Dream during your visit, do so. You will not be disappointed. The show is a perfect companion to Brixen’s Christmas market. What could be a better way to get into the holiday spirit? Especially, after one has enjoyed a warm cup of mulled wine or two!

Soliman’s Dream runs from November 23, 2017 – January 7, 2018. Multiple shows are available each day beginning at 5:30 PM.

If heading to South Tyrol is not an option this winter, don’t despair. There are plenty of other times to allow Brixen to enchant you. The town is a must add to every South Tyrol trip itinerary. Stay tuned as we plan share additional sights and wonders from Brixen in future posts.

Getting to Brixen is easy. It is located right off Autostrada A22 and is just 30 minutes northeast of Bolzano. We had no problems finding parking near the town center. Concerned about driving? Don’t be. Anyone with common sense and a little pre-trip prep can handle it. Check out our post on driving in Italy for practical tips.

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Driving in Italy Made Easy…Guaranteed

By Kate & Vin 33 Comments

You can be forgiven for thinking driving in Italy is madness. Nearly every Hollywood depiction of an automobile in Italy involves a whole lot of speed fueled by sheer chaos. Heck, three minutes into Quantum of Solace, James Bond has all but destroyed a $250K+ Aston Martin while simply trying to roll into Siena.

Don’t let Hollywood fool you. ANYONE with a dose of common sense, a little pre-trip prep and a solid GPS can easily handle driving in Italy.

If you like the idea of freely exploring Italy’s countryside, vineyards, villages and Alps at your own pace, a car is a must. With a car, nearly all of Italy’s off-the-beaten-path jewels will be yours for the picking. And trust us, hidden gems such as Italy’s South Tyrol region are not to be missed.

In this post, we cover the top things to know about driving in Italy. You’ll learn:

Key road rules for driving and parking in Italy
What you legally need to drive in Italy
Rental car tips and Italy rental car insurance requirements
How to easily handle tolls on the Autostrada
How to easily navigate Italian roads & more

Pressed for time? Then download our FREE “Driving in Italy Checklist”. It helps ensure you’re ready to handle Italian roads like a pro.

The Right Side of the Road

One of the top questions we receive about driving in Italy is which side of the road do Italians drive on. Good news. They drive on the same side as the U.S. Yup, the steering wheel is on the same side as well. If you were fretting making a mistake on the road due to it being different in that respect, your biggest mental hurdle to driving in Italy is behind you!

Obtain an International Driving Permit Before You Depart

By law, Italy requires foreign drivers to possess an International Driving Permit (IDP). This document translates your driver’s license into a format that allows authorities to easily identify you.

Obtaining an IDP is easy, cheap and needs to happen before you head to Italy. Don’t worry. You do not need to pass any test.

The U.S. State Department has authorized only two entities to issue citizens IDPs: American Automobile Association (AAA) and the American Automobile Touring Alliance (AATA).

To apply, go to one of the above links and print out the application form. You’ll also need two original passport pictures (easily available at places such as Walgreens), your valid driver’s license and $20 for the permit processing fee.

If you visit a local AAA branch office you can obtain your IDP within 10-15 minutes. If you choose to apply via the mail allow 4 to 6 weeks so plan accordingly. Once issued, your IDP is valid for 1 year.

Rent a Car in Italy from a Reputable Company Before You Depart

To get the best deal when renting a car in Italy, conduct online research using a consolidator site such as Kayak or Auto Europe. Reserve a car before you depart on your trip. With these sites you can browse multiple car rental options and easily sort by the best price and features.

We’ve had the best luck renting through Auto Europe. They offer the most affordable choices, never add hidden fees and provide 24-hour assistance in English. In addition, Auto Europe provides free winter tires, which is required in some parts of Italy if you’re traveling between November 15 – April 15.

Rental car options in Italy default to manual transmission so unless you like cruising around with a stick shift be sure to select automatic transmission when searching. You’ll pay a bit more for an automatic, but the cost is worth it.

Renting a Car in Italy — A small, compact car in Italy gives you the most flexibility to get around.

When it comes to vehicle size, we always opt for a smaller vehicle such as a Fiat 500. Sure with a smaller car your odds of looking like a man of international mystery are slim to none, but they are the most budget friendly. Plus, they allow you to dart down narrow medieval alleys and park with relative ease. The compact vehicles we’ve rented have never had an issue handling mountain roads in the Italian Alps or Dolomites. However, if you plan to visit Italy’s mountainous gems in the winter, we recommend renting an SUV.

To save money with your car rental in Italy, pick it up and drop it off at the same location. For us, this means we book our flights in and out of the same airport. If you drop it off at a location other than where you picked it up, you’ll likely pay a premium.

Car Rental Insurance in Italy

With regards to car rental insurance, the car rental company should include basic, mandated liability coverage for damage to anyone or anything outside the car due to an accident. Italy also by law automatically requires renters to pay for collision damage waiver (CDW) and theft protection. This is not an add-on and will be included in your car rental rate.

By having CDW insurance the car rental company waives the right to collect a high deductible from you if the car is damaged. This greatly reduces the deductible you would owe if you’re in an accident or damage the car. It also covers most of the car if you are in a collision.

We do not purchase extra insurance as a part of our car rental agreement. Instead, we include it with our trip insurance plan, which we purchase in the event we need to cancel our trip. If you don’t typically purchase trip insurance, we highly recommend it for added peace of mind. To compare the best trip insurance plans, we use InsureMyTrip. It’s fast and convenient.

Some credit cards include car rental insurance as a benefit, but make sure it covers countries such as Italy. Review the complete description of the coverage offered by your credit-card company before relying on it.

Bring Your Own GPS Unit

Odds are your rental car in Italy can come with a GPS navigation system built-in for an additional cost, but we recommend using a standalone unit and bringing it with you. Why? Few things are more frustrating than trying to program a GPS system when you’re jet-lagged and its default language is Italian or German.

Unless you’re fluent in either language, save yourself the headache by programming destinations into your own GPS unit before you depart. That way, when you pick up your rental car you can simply power it up and be on your way.

If you don’t own a GPS unit, you can buy a used one cheap by searching on sites such as Craigslist. However, if you like the latest and greatest gadgets we recommend going with the Garmin Nuvi. This device is intuitive to use and has never failed to get us to our destination even when we were stubborn and wrongly thought we knew a better way! When in doubt, trust your GPS.

No matter where you purchase your GPS make sure it is loaded with maps covering where you intend to visit in Italy. For our trips to South Tyrol, we purchased the Garmin City Navigator 2016 Northern Italy Map microSD Card. This GPS map is very comprehensive and features motorways, national and regional thoroughfares and local roads throughout Northern Italy, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and more.

You can certainly attempt navigating Italy the old fashioned way with paper maps, but if you’re off-the-beaten-path or in a busy part of a city it can be nerve wracking to decide your next turn. Do yourself a favor and invest in a GPS. You will not regret it.

Know the Basic Rules of the Italian Road

Italians are competent and decisive drivers. By knowing the basic rules of driving in Italy, you can hold your own behind the wheel. Just recognize that they will rule the road. And that’s just fine.

When traveling on multi-lane highways such as Italy’s autostrade, only use the left lane if you are passing. Just like in the U.S., the left lane is not the place to act like you’re on a Sunday drive. But unlike in the U.S., cars can come up behind you at incredible speeds on a regular basis. The best thing to do is just get out of their way by keeping to the right.

Even though Italians drive fast, all roads in Italy do have speed limits. On country roads the speed limit is 90 km/h (56 mph), on freeways it is 110 km/h (68 mph) and on the autostrade it is 130 km/h (81 mph). Your best bet is to obey the posted speed limit signs, but apply common sense. Go with the flow of traffic. We always do so without issue.

However, it’s worth keeping in mind that Italy does extensively monitor speeds with highway cameras and will issue fines that hit you through your car rental company.

Italy Roadside Mirror — Use roadside mirrors when approaching corners.

Stop signs and stop lights operate the same in Italy as the U.S.; however, it is always illegal to make a right turn at a red light in Italy.

Many other road signs you’ll encounter driving in Italy are intuitive and universal. But some can be confusing so it’s worthwhile to familiarize yourself with the most common. We’ve developed a handy Driving in Italy Guide – Cheatsheets that you can download to your phone, tablet or print out for easy reference when you’re in your car. We use this guide on every trip to Italy and have found it a true stress reliever for the times when you get flustered on the road and can’t recall a specific rule, sign or guideline.

Italy has no shortage of narrow, winding roads. To help you see what may be coming ahead, mirrors are often posted on the side of the road by corners. Get into the habit of using them to avoid potential problems.

Driving on Italy’s Autostrade

Italy’s autostrade (autostrada – singular) are toll highways that require taking a ticket to enter and then paying at drive-up toll booths upon exiting, which happens when you pull into a city, town, etc. (gas stations are conveniently located right next to the autostrade so you do not need to exit to fuel up). Even though you have to deal with tolls, the autostrade makes driving in Italy efficient — allowing you to quickly get from destination to destination.

The autostrade are designated by green signs and with A in front of a number. For example, the toll road from Verona to Bolzano is A22. Here’s how to simply use the autostrade while driving in Italy:

Italy Autostrada Toll Ticket — Autostrade Toll Ticket

Entering the Autostrade – Select a lane with a white sign with the word “Biglietto” (ticket). When you pull up, grab the ticket from the machine. The toll bar will automatically rise allowing you to be on your way. The lanes with yellow signs are for residents who have a Telepass, which allows them to zip through the toll without taking a ticket.

Italy Autostrada Toll Cash Payment Sign — Autostrade Toll Cash Payment Lane Sign

Exiting the Autostrade – When you pull up to the toll lanes to exit the autostrade you will see multiple options. As a tourist, you’ll want to select either the lane with the white sign showing a hand with a cash symbol or the lane with the white sign and cash symbol along with credit card symbols on a blue background.

The lane with the hand symbol indicates there is an attendant who will take your ticket and handle the transaction. This lane is cash only. The lane with the cash and credit card symbols is a self-service lane where you insert your ticket in the machine as indicated and then insert a credit card or pay by inserting cash or dropping in coins. The machine dispenses change if necessary. The type of credit cards accepted are chip cards (most U.S. cards now have chips) from American Express, Visa or MasterCard.

We typically pay with cash or coins in either lane, but have also used our credit cards without any issues. Entering a PIN is not necessary when paying by credit card.

Paying Autostrada toll in Italy — Pay Autostrade tolls with cash or a credit card.

Planning Your Trip on the Autostrade – Before leaving for Italy, it’s worthwhile to map out your road trips to determine if you’ll be using the autostrade and how frequently. It’s also helpful to see if there are viable alternative routes where you can avoid tolls. The tool we use is ViaMichelin. ViaMichelin calculates estimated driving times, fuel costs as well as toll costs.

It’s worth noting that Sundays are a good time to drive on the autostrade as semi trucks are prohibited.

Additional Rules for Driving in Italy

Here are some more key rules you should be aware of before driving in Italy:

Buckle Up – Everyone in the vehicle must wear seat belts.
Headlights – Headlights are required to be on at all times.
Drinking & Driving – Italy has a 0.5mg blood alcohol limit for drivers. A glass of wine or two can put you over the limit. Watch what you sip or ensure you have a designated driver.
Children – Leave them in the U.S. (just kidding!). Children under the age of four must be secured in an approved child safety seat. Kids from 4 to 12 must be in a child restraint if they are riding in the front passenger seat.
Emergency Accessories – Italy requires each vehicle to have a visibility vest for every occupant, as well as an emergency triangle in the vehicle. Your rental car company should automatically include these in the vehicle, but it’s worth double checking with the agent at the pick up counter. If you forget and need to purchase a vest, they are readily available at gas stations and are inexpensive. No, you do not need to wear these while driving! Just put them on if you pull over to the side of the road and get out for any reason.
Mobile Phones – If you plan to use your phone while driving, make sure you use a hands-free device. If you plan to text while driving, you are stupido.
Zona Traffico Limitato or ZTL – When driving in a city or town do not enter areas with a sign that says Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL). These are car restricted areas such as city centers and plazas. Some ZTL areas capture your license plate number with a camera and you’ll receive a hefty fine if you mistakenly enter one. The fine will find its way to your credit card through your car rental company.
Right of Way – At intersections, vehicles approaching from the right always have the right of way.

Parking in Italy

Parking in Italy can look like a plate of spaghetti. But knowing your options and what to keep an eye out for will make you much more confident.

Often you can locate free parking outside of towns and cities and take a shuttle to the center. This is ideal to avoid driving in a major city. It can be incredibly hectic…especially when you do not know the language or the local unwritten rules of the road. Plus, driving in a major city in Italy is really unnecessary due to excellent public transportation options.

But if you do need to enter a city we have always been able to find convenient pay lots with the help of our GPS. These lots are straightforward and operate very similar to those in the U.S.

You take a ticket from a machine when you enter a pay lot. Bring the ticket with you when you leave the car as you’ll insert it into a pay machine before leaving. After you’ve inserted the money, the machine will spit the ticket back to you. Keep the ticket as you’ll need it to exit the lot.

Parking in Italy — Blue lines indicate you can park and make a payment at a nearby pay machine.

When parking on the street white, blue and yellow lines designate parking places. White lines in most cases indicate free parking, but that can depend on the city so you’ll want to make sure it’s not permit parking only. Blue line parking spaces require payment at a pay machine. These spots require payment from 8 AM to 8 PM except Sundays and holidays when they’re free. Yellow markings are for authorized drivers only, such as the handicapped.

If you’re not sure about a parking space, just move on until it’s clear to you. The last thing you want is to have your vehicle towed.

How to Handle Roadside Emergencies in Italy

During our visits to Italy we have never had a roadside emergency such as running out of gas, a flat tire, fender bender, etc. That said, it pays to know upfront how to handle such scenarios in case they happen.

When selecting which company to rent your vehicle from, make sure they offer 24/7 assistance. For example, Auto Europe prides itself on giving you peace of mind throughout your trip no matter where you decide to roam in Italy. If you need assistance, simply contact their support number at anytime and follow their directions.

Another option is to call the Automobile Club D’Italia (ACI). The ACI provides 24 hour roadside assistance with English speaking operators to all drivers in Italy any day of the week. Contact ACI anytime by calling 803.116 from a landline or 800.116.800 from an international number. The ACI offers tows and roadside service without requiring you to be a member.

If you are unable to connect with your car rental provider or the ACI, it’s comforting to know that all major motorways in Italy have emergency phones located every mile. If you need mechanical assistance or emergency help, these phones will connect you with an emergency center.

Driving in Italy is An Adventure You Should Experience

Most Americans vacationing in Italy will never rent a car. As we previously stated, that’s just fine if you’re only venturing into the major cities. But if you’re like us and want to devour all of Italy’s natural, cultural and historical nooks and crannies don’t let anyone talk you out of renting a car.

Yes, you may get lost for a bit or make a mistake that annoys another motorist. So what. Being anxious driving in Italy for the first time is normal. But with this post and a little pre-trip prep following our FREE “Driving in Italy Checklist” you will be cruising Italian roads with ease in no time.

And if you are ever driving in Italy and discover the “steering wheel was screwed on backwards”, don’t sweat it. You’ll wind up in good hands and may just find yourself right at home in Italy. Right where you belong. Enjoying the simple and the beautiful.

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The Right Side of the Road

Obtain an International Driving Permit Before You Depart

Rent a Car in Italy from a Reputable Company Before You Depart

Car Rental Insurance in Italy

Bring Your Own GPS Unit

Know the Basic Rules of the Italian Road

Driving on Italy’s Autostrade

Additional Rules for Driving in Italy

Parking in Italy

How to Handle Roadside Emergencies in Italy

Driving in Italy is An Adventure You Should Experience

EXPERIENCE THE ALPS!

Thank you! Good things coming your way!

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