South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure

The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies

When you picture your idea of paradise, what do you see? If you’re a mountain lover like us, chances are a scene strikingly similar to the sight of Lago di Braies floats through your mind.

And why wouldn’t it? Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee) boasts every heavenly Alpine quality on Earth. A pristine lake so still and peaceful it mirrors the landscape? Check. Snow-capped mountain peaks looming on the horizon? Check. Towering evergreen trees foresting the slopes? Check. Throngs of people taking selfies? Check.

Say what?

Okay, we admit that last item is hardly anyone’s notion of paradise. Nevertheless, it is a reality of visiting places such as Lago di Braies. Its unearthly beauty acts as a magnet for everyone visiting South Tyrol.

However, if you plan your trip right, coping with masses of people dotting the landscape does not have to be your experience. But before we share our tips on visiting this fabled lake, let’s discover more about what many call “The Pearl of the Dolomites” and “The Emerald of the Dolomites.”

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our free Lago di Braies guide

About South Tyrol’s Most Popular Lake

Tucked between sheer mountain cliffs, Lago di Braies’ veridian spirit ripples over 76+ acres (picture 30 rugby fields). It beams from nearly 5,000 feet above sea level and has a maximum depth of 118 feet.

South Tyrol Holiday Planning — Hiking the 2-mile loop around Lago di Braies ensures you encounter the most breathtaking scenery of the lake.

What lies beneath the surface? Trout and the stuff of legends.

According to ancient folklore, Lago di Braies is a magical gateway to the underground kingdom of Fanes. The kingdom of Fanes appears in many South Tyrolean sagas and has historical roots going back 2,500+ years.

Another legend of Lago di Braies, albeit much more recent, tells of 10 tons of gold lying at the bottom of the lake. When World War II ended, Nazis supposedly sank the treasure.

A 2-mile hiking trail circles Lago di Braies providing some of the most spectacular Alpine lake scenery in the Dolomites.

This legend may have some plausibility. During the war, Nazis used the stately Hotel Lake Braies adorning the northern end of the lake as a base. Built in 1899, the hotel still operates today. In 1945, the hotel played a key role in liberating 139 concentration camp survivors including several family members of Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg — the leader of the most famous failed assassination attempt of Adolf Hitler. You can read more about the liberation at the hand of U.S. forces here.

Springs deep underground marry a labyrinth of mountain streams to continuously feed Braies. Those choosing to brave its icy waters will endure a frosty 57°F (14°C) if they are lucky.

The immense Seekofel summit inside the Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park of Puster Valley (also known as Val Pusteria) serves as the lake’s most famous mountain backdrop.

Populated by pines, peaks and pastures and lone farmhouses, Puster Valley wraps you in the rustic charms of old Tyrol. The valley sits next to Austria on the east side of South Tyrol. It runs to the west carving into the heart of the Dolomites.

You could spend your entire time in South Tyrol exploring Puster Valley. Lago di Braies is just one of its many splendors. Consider basing yourself near Brunico or Dobbacio or spoil yourself at Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort as we did.

Exploring Around Lago di Braies

Plenty of people visit Lago di Braies without ever stepping beyond the northern shore. They only saunter to the lakefront and snap away on their phones or cameras until satisfied they have the next Instagram hit. What a mistake. A 2-mile hiking trail circles Lago di Braies providing some of the most spectacular Alpine lake scenery in the Dolomites.

Making your way around the lake takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours. Begin on the western shore side by following the Seeweg / Giro del Lago signposts. Here, the trail rolls through stands of pines with the glimmering water never leaving your side.

The path is smooth enough to allow for a stroller or even a walker. You’ll come across protruding boulders discarded by the mountainside ages ago. They offer the perfect place to take a seat and watch any boats gently rowing about beneath the stone walls of Apostoli — a mountain across the lake that storms up 6,500 feet from the water’s edge.

After hiking around Lago di Braies, you may just want to spend more time lost in the luster of this Alpine jewel.

Eventually, the trail will wind to the east placing you at the foot of Seekofel. This is near the half-way point with the hotel directly opposite where you began. Towards the shore stretches a pebble-strewn beach. If you’re feeling like a dip, this is as good a place as any to become one with Braies.

Continuing on, you’ll come across one of many boulder-riddled gullies tumbling from the mountain summits. These look like bone-dry canals made of gravel. When the snow-melt washes over them each spring it must be a dramatic sight to witness.

Monte Nero looms above the western shore of Lago di Braies.

The trail soon turns toward the north leading you along the eastern flank of Lago di Braies. This stretch of the hike ascends nicely offering the most awe-inspiring views in our opinion. From several points, you can admire the dome-like mountain of Monte Nero that anchors the lake on the west. It’s worth noting that this leg of the trail holds timbered steps making it impossible to navigate with a stroller or walker.

Soon, the path swoops down to where Lago di Braies squeezes into a marshy sliver at its northernmost point. Rounding this point, the trail carries you past the boathouse back to the hotel front.

Boats on Lago di Braies — The mirror-like stillness of Lago di Braies makes it a rowboat lovers dream.

Spend any time at all on Instagram, and you’ll see that the Lago di Braies boathouse is the most popular photo stop on the lake. We get it. There’s something clearly magical about the boats seemingly levitating over the crystal clear water.

But if you’re set on avoiding Instagram models during your visit, steer clear of here. You can usually spot them by their choice of attire: sundresses and heels. No one ventures into an Alpine environment in such outfits unless they’re hunting for social media likes.

The Best Time to Visit Lago di Braies

The early bird gets the worm…and Lago di Braies much less crowded. The lake’s favorable position off a main mountain roadway makes it an attractive destination for tour groups. If you arrive early in the morning, many group tour types tend to still be roaming the lands of snore. Let them sleep.

They can miss the rising sun breaking the peaks and plunging like a waterfall into a still sea of jade. You, on the other hand, will take in a sight that touches your heart forever.

We suggest arriving early and departing early. If you are visiting during the summer (high season), plan on 6 AM. You’ll encounter photographers, but minimal tourists. Those visiting in so-called offseasons can arrive a bit later between 7:00-8:00 AM.

Additional Sights, Activities & Considerations

After hiking around the lake, you may just want to spend more time lost in the luster of this Alpine jewel. Here are some additional sights and activities to consider:

Chapel Lago di Braies – This storybook chapel gracing the western shoreline was built in 1904. It was designed by Otto Schmid, the same architect responsible for the hotel. A horse stable next to the chapel only adds more beauty to its idyllic pose.

Lake Braies Chapel — Like quaint and idyllic? The Lago di Braies chapel is well worth visiting during your time at the lake.

Rent a Boat – Few things are more romantic than rowing out into the middle of Lago di Braies. From late spring through early fall, the boathouse rents out boats from 10 AM to 5 PM. You can select from a 1/2 hour to a full hour. The cost is €18 and €30 respectively. If you want to rent a boat for a private photo shoot you can do so from 7:30 to 9.00 AM for €150.

Horseback Riding – Imagine galloping along the beach atop a magnificent steed. The Steinwandterhof farmhouse and stable allows you to do just that.

Land a Trout – If you’re angling for some angling, embark on a fishing excursion on Lago di Braies. Guests of Hotel Lake Braies can obtain free fishing permits and rent gear.

Sip & Dine Amid Emerald Glory – After adventuring about the lake you may work up a thirst and appetite. The Hotel Lake Braies offers a splendid terrace to enjoy a cup of coffee, a meal, a glass of delectable South Tyrolean wine or a sweet South Tyrolean original called Hugo. The Tiroler Stube cafeteria is open from 10 AM to 6 PM. The restaurant is open from 12 PM to 5 PM.

Pick up a Souvenir – A boutique souvenir shop is attached to the hotel allowing you to bring a kitschy piece of Lago di Braies home with you. We’re guilty.

Summer or Winter? – How about spring or fall instead. The colors you encounter during the months of spring and fall make the lake dazzle even more in our opinion. If you want to avoid seeing Lago di Braies as a sheet of ice be sure to visit before late November or after April.

Dress appropriately – The hike around Lago di Braies is not treacherous, but we recommend wearing proper hiking or walking footwear. Don’t forget to check the forecast prior to visiting so you can determine if you need rain gear or a jacket.

Throw a Picnic – At the midway point around the lake loop you will find picnic tables and bathrooms. Take advantage of both if you need a rest. The remainder of the hike is a bit more difficult than the first leg.

Explore More of Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park – Several trails veer of the loop allowing you to trek further into the park. Many of these trails are considerably more difficult so plan accordingly. The lake is also the starting point of the Dolomites’ famous Alta Via no. 1 (Alpine Path no. 1), which leads you through the mountains to as far as Belluno in the Veneto region of Italy.

Visit Brunico Afterwards – After consuming so much natural beauty consider venturing onto Brunico (Bruneck in German) for a dose of history. In Brunico, you can stroll cobblestone streets and marvel at churches and castles, as well as meander through a beautiful war cemetery unlike any other in the world. The town is just a half hour north of the lake by car or bus.

Brunico, South Tyrol — The picturesque town of Brunico makes for a charming stop after visiting Lago di Braies.

How to Get to Lago di Braies

Lago di Braies is one of the easier gems in the Dolomites to reach. If you’re renting a car as we typically recommend, plenty of parking is available just outside the front of the hotel. The cost is €5. From any of the lots, it’s a short walk to the lake.

If you’re based near Bolzano, the lake is just over 1.5 hours to the northeast. From Brixen, just over an hour. The drive is considerably easy relative to other mountain destinations in South Tyrol.

Have you been to Lago di Braies? If so, please comment below and add any tips or considerations we may have missed.

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St. Valentin Chapel – A Hilltop Jewel in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

At the foot of the jarring Schlern massif lies one of the most beautiful churches of the Dolomites. St. Valentin Chapel is blessed with a mountain backdrop so immediate and immense it makes one’s heart flutter with awe.

The chapel’s existence was first documented in 1244; however, the exact year it came to grace a hilltop below the Siusi Alps is not known. But in a way, one could say the chapel saw its first breath of life on February 14th in 269 AD. The day a Christian priest, known as Valentine, met his end at the edge of a sword.

His crime? Violating an edict issued by Roman Emperor Claudius Gothicus that prohibited the marriage of young couples. The emperor believed unmarried soldiers made better warriors. His warped mind thought if soldiers had wives or children it would weigh too much on them in battle.

In 496, Pope Gelasius I inaugurated the Feast of Saint Valentine to be celebrated annually on February 14 in veneration of the Christian martyr. Hundreds of years later the chapel of St. Valentin was built to honor the saint. Fast forward hundreds of years more, and throngs of heart-shaped Hallmark cards with poetic effusions to love blanket marketplace shelves the world over each February.

That’s all fine and well, but we’ll take the reverant sight of St. Valentin Chapel over a dozen roses any day.

Here’s more about this historic hilltop jewel and how to enjoy it with your own eyes while adventuring in the Dolomites.

At the Gate of the Dolomites

Perched on a grassy knoll high above the idyllic village of Seis (Siusi), St. Valentin Chapel is a must-see for those spending time exploring the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), Europe’s largest Alpine prairie, which surges another 2,000 feet into the sky from where the chapel sits.

Its time-worn spire crowned with a crimson dome is impossible to miss no matter if you come into the village from the north or south.

The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

Besides its picturesque pose below the Siusi Alp, St. Valentin Chapel is celebrated for its remarkable frescoes inside and on its outer walls. They date back to the 14th and 15th century.

St. Valentin Chapel Fresco — A fresco on the outer wall of St. Valentin depicts a scene of the Three Kings with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background.

Schlern Massif — A looming presence. The view of the Schlern massif from St. Valentin Chapel.

We found one of the frescoes on the outer wall facing the village particularly intriguing as it shows the Three Kings greeting the infant Jesus with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background. The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

After admiring the medieval artwork, we took a seat at a nearby bench to let the South Tyrolean sun and antiquity wash over us. While sitting we spotted a castle ruin far away clinging to the mountainside. We later learned it was the crumbling fortress of Hauenstein Castle.

A relic from the 12th century, it was once home to Oswald Von Wolkenstein, a famed medieval minnesinger that followed in the footsteps of the Jim Morrison of medieval times — Walther von der Vogelweide.

For Whom the Bell Tolls

St. Valentin Chapel and Schlern Massif — Legend has it, a bell within the St. Valentin Chapel wards off spells from witches.

The Dolomites are a land littered with ancient legends…some as jolting as the peaks themselves. It came as no surprise then when we discovered the little chapel of St. Valentin bears a bull-size legend of its own.

For thousands of years, Schlern mountain has towered amid tales of witches. The tumultuous thunderstorms raging down from the craggy massif are said to be the spawn of spells cast upon the land. It’s only natural then that long ago — when explanations of the unknown spun readily from superstitions — the locals sought to protect themselves from the terrors of black magic.

Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Thanks to a wanderslusting bull, St. Valentin Chapel came to stand as more than a place of worship, but also as a guardian against the dark. An age-old legend tells of a bull roaming the sleepy hills of the chapel making a fortuitous discovery: a bell buried in the hillside. The bell, now known as the “The Bull of San Valentino” was hung in the spire. The witches of Schlern came to fear the bell as when it tolls it breaks their spell of storms.

Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, we did not encounter any stormy weather during our visit thus did not get to hear the bell toll. But we did come across a cat creeping around the chapel. Clearly, a Schlern witch waiting to wreak havoc on wretched souls.

Cat at St. Valentin Chapel — A Witch of Sciliar or just a cat? Those eyes say it all.

⇒ READ MORE: Hiking Where Witches Once Roamed in South Tyrol

How to Reach St. Valentin Chapel

A variety of trails can lead you to St. Valentin Chapel including one from the town of Castelrotto that takes about an hour to walk. However, we recommend visiting the chapel either before or after spending a day trekking the Alpe di Siusi.

Near a parking lot located in the heart of Seis is a brick-paved trail that winds up the hillside toward the chapel. After a 5-minute walk, you’ll come across another path carved under a row of trees that brings you to the chapel steps. To find the initial trail in Seis, simply follow the signposts.

Once on the trail, you cannot miss the chapel unless you’re entirely consumed by the enormity of the Siusi Alp storming upward from the forested slopes. Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Unfortunately, touring inside the chapel is not possible without making a special appointment. But the outside of St. Valentin with its sweeping views is so breathtaking it does not really matter.

After soaking in the sights, hop back on the paved brick and walk uphill a few more minutes to a farmstead. Here, you can watch South Tyrol’s famous Haflinger horses gracefully graze under a mature grove of apple trees.

A South Tyrolean beauty — the famous Haflinger horse — grazes below an apple tree under the guard of the St. Valentin Chapel.

If you’re visiting the chapel in the afternoon as we did, we recommend grabbing dinner in Seis. The village is easy to walk and you’ll find a number of establishments to pick from.

We ate at the Restaurant Pizzeria Zum Woscht and delighted in pizza accompanied by a bottle Lagrein from Cantina Tramin. Afterward, we suggest visiting the parish church of Sciliar located on the edge of the village center. While not as scenic as St. Valentin Chapel, it possesses a peaceful Alpine cemetery that is well worth strolling through.

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Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

By Kate & Vin 35 Comments

Out of all the iconic mountain scenery in South Tyrol there is perhaps no more striking sight than the Fermeda Towers of the Dolomites’ Odle mountain range.

From the sweeping pastures of Seceda mountain, these saw-toothed peaks seem born out of some prehistoric fire wherein a flash the burning mountain became stone. Flames once alive now forever frozen in time.

In this post, we show you how to see them. Up close. And in a heart-pounding way that will make for one of your most unforgettable days in South Tyrol. Our step-by-step guide to hiking Seceda brings you to another must-see sight in the Dolomites: The Church of St. Jakob. The oldest church in Val Gardena, its Gothic spire abruptly pierces the Alpine sky like a sword raised from an archangel.

This Seceda hiking adventure takes 4-6 hours depending on how long you choose to linger and admire the beauty all around you.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our free Seceda hiking guide

Bastions of Stone are Born

But before diving into how to hike Seceda, allow us to whisk you back 280 million years — when the Dolomites were just mere inches high. Knowing the birth of these geological giants not only adds to their wonder but also imparts a greater appreciation for their protection as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While ancient lore spun from deep within the Dolomites would have us believe the “Pale Mountains” arose from dwarves dutifully weaving moonlight around mountain peaks to appease a lovesick prince, the truth is far less romantic yet equally fascinating.

Dolomites Coral Reef — The Dolomites formed under a prehistoric ocean 280 million years ago.

The jagged crags of the Dolomites captivate all who see them, but to the expert eye, they also tell the story of billions upon billions of fossilized life forms. The cleaved cliffsides reveal past ages in stratifications that run from foot to summit. In the period when dinosaurs first appeared, the Dolomites were actually coral reefs under the deep ocean blue.

Over millions of years, colossal compressions of the earth’s crust thrust the reefs higher until emerging into the sky 30 million years. The erosive actions of earth over epochs shaped the mountains into the serrated forms we see today.

So when treading across the Dolomites take a moment to ponder the countless critters now extinct right below your feet. Their scientific value is as immense as the mountains. We just might have something to learn from them.

Where is Seceda in the Dolomites?

Seceda mountain looms from 8,200+ feet above the villages of Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva in Val Gardena. The mountain is within the Puez Odle Nature Park (Naturpark Puez-Geisler in German) and is one of many forming the Odle Group (Geislergruppe or Gruppo delle Odle) of mountains.

The name Odle comes from the Ladin language of Val Gardena and translates to “needles” — certainly an appropriate moniker given the mountain’s pointy peaks. Seceda, on the other hand, stems from the Latin word “siccus”, which means dry. Again, quite appropriate since the vast pastures of Seceda can be rather stark depending on the time of year visited.

How to Reach Seceda

Reaching Seceda’s summit can be as easy or hard as you like. The most direct way to ascend to the top of Seceda is from the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola Station in Ortisei, which then connects you to the Furnes-Seceda cable car part way up the mountain. Here are the step-by-step directions to follow:

If arriving at Ortisei by car, you can park right next to the gondola lift station or at the underground Garage Central parking lot in the heart of Ortisei. We recommend parking at the Garage Central if you intend to wander about Ortisei after your hike. The walk to the gondola station is less than 10 minutes. See the map in our downloadable Seceda hiking guide.
At the Ortisei-Furnes Gondola station, you’ll need to purchase a ticket to use the lift. For this specific hike, you will purchase a one-way ticket that allows using both the gondola and the cable car to bring you the Seceda summit. The cost is 23,00 €. Note: If you are not interested in making the trek down the mountain, purchase a round-trip ticket.
Both the gondola and cable car ride are smooth and peaceful. When the gondola ride ends, walk to the Furnes-Seceda Cable Car station which is a short distance away to hop in the cable car lift, which whisks you to the summit. During the ascent, be sure to consume the ever-expanding panorama. Towards the west, the mountains of Alpe di Siusi will gradually unfold into their full splendor. It takes roughly 15 minutes in total to reach the summit using both lifts.

Hiking Across Seceda

Once you arrive at the Furnes-Seceda summit station, pick your jaw off the cable car floor before stepping out. For the best views of the Fermeda Towers begin hiking Seceda by hopping on trail no. 1 as indicated by the signpost.

This will lead you up an incline that any beginner hiker can handle. Soon you will be at the foot of the impressive Seceda summit cross. Next to it is a circular lookout point forged from iron that helps you identify all the mountains gracing your eyes from the summit.

Looking towards Alpe di Siusi more iconic peaks of the Dolomites including the Sella Group, the Sassolungo massif and the Witches Mountain (Mt. Schlern) lie on the horizon. From up here, you can even spot the king of South Tyrol mountains, Ortler, which beckons from a height of 13,000 feet more than 80 miles away.

Just beyond the summit cross to the east is an ideal spot to capture some of the most photogenic scenes of the Fermeda Towers.

From here, you will continue on the trail towards the Fermeda Towers. The path will now descend slightly. If your heart does not pound faster as the sheer immensity of the peaks swells before you, that’s a good indication to check your pulse.

Eventually, you will come to a signpost for trail no. 6. Follow this trail to your left, which pulls you up the steep Furcela Pana (Pana-Scharte) where you will take in the Fermeda Towers from the edge of the earth. Well, it appears to be anyway. This ascent up the Furcela Pana is a tad grueling, but not dangerous.

Once you have thoroughly soaked in the sight walk back down and pick up trail no. 1 again. This will bring you to the Troier Hut — an idyllic, rustic place to relax and eat under the guard of the Fermeda peaks.

Find a table on the patio facing the Sassolungo massif across the wide chasm of pastures, stones and pines. The Troier Hut restaurant serves a variety of delicious South Tyrolean specialties right from their farm to your table. In addition, the hut makes a mean Hugo cocktail — a South Tyrolean original you must try.

After you’re done eating, sit back in one of the sun loungers below the patio. Here, let the sweeping view lullaby you into a brief nap before trekking onward.

When you’re rested and ready, take trail no. 2B to see the remarkable twin peaks of Pieralongia. Beyond these stone spear tips, you will take trail no. 1 again where you will begin your descent toward St. Jakob’s Church.

Fermeda Chapel — A tiny stone chapel sits under the jagged teeth of Fermeda.

Stay on trail no. 1 until coming to a fork with a signpost pointing to trail no. 2. This trail runs to the left and right. Head to the right towards Ortisei as noted on the signpost. This trail stretches all the way across the meadows of Seceda.

You’ll pass additional huts if you need to take another break or to satisfy your craving for another Hugo. The trail also winds past Fermeda Church — a tiny stone chapel that will charm you from a hilltop on your right.

⇒ LEARN MORE: Understanding South Tyrol Trail Signs & Markers

Into the Forest of Mt. Balest

The trail will become steeper as you approach Mt. Pic and Mt. Balest, which are the first mountains above Ortisei before Seceda. You’ll walk up to the opening of a forest where signpost for trail no. 6A directs you to St. Jakob.

This trail cuts into swaths of evergreens that tower above the rock face cliff side of Mt. Balest. Even though the trail runs through forested slopes, several points allow you to gush over the wide open Val d’ Anna below as well as capture glimpses of Sassolungo through breaks in the treetops.

Seceda Hike Wayside Shrine — One of the many **wayside shrines** you’ll encounter while hiking Seceda.

It is important to note that trail no. 6A becomes increasingly difficult as it twists and turns over Mt. Balest towards St. Jakob. While we do not consider it an easy hike, it is not dangerous in terms of height and steepness.

Parts are quite rocky and narrow-pathed however so it’s important to watch your step to prevent injuring a knee or ankle. For those less sure on their feet, we recommend using hiking poles during this part of the trek. That said, we have seen hikers of all ages on this trail so don’t let the increased difficulty level deter you. Just take your time, be prepared and allow enough time before sunset.

When you arrive at the Balest signpost at 1823 meters, follow trail no. 6 towards St. Jakob. From here, you are roughly 30 minutes from the church.

Reaching the Church of St. Jakob

Once you arrive at the Church of St. Jakob (“San Giacomo” in Italian and “Dlieja da Sacun” in Ladin), the sight of it against the backdrop of Sassolungo will stop you in your tracks. We recommend taking a seat on the bench overlooking the church to let its antiquity sink in.

It’s not known exactly when the church was built, but documents first mention it in 1283. For nearly a thousand years it has greeted travelers and you can now count yourself as one of them.

Unfortunately, the church is permanently closed unless you arrive at a time when guided tours are being conducted or during the summer when it is frequently open for visitors during normal hours. However, its cemetery is open year round allowing you to wander around the small church grounds within the circular outer wall.

A gorgeous wayside shrine greets you at the front of the cemetery. Its haunting presence exemplifies the expert craftsmanship of the wood carvers of Val Gardena. Also worth seeing are the late Gothic frescoes from 1450 on the south-facing wall of the church. They possess remarkable color and detail depicting St. Christopher with Jesus as a child perched on his shoulder.

St. Jakob Church Frescoes — The frescoes on the south-facing wall of St. Jakob are from 1450.

If you’re interested in a tour of its historic interior, we suggest contacting the tourist office in Ortisei to find out specifics on when they may be available.

Ease Your Way Down to Ortisei

From St. Jakob Church return to trail no. 6 and follow it toward Ortisei. From this point, you are roughly a half hour from the village. The remainder of the walk is easy and will take you through more evergreen forest where you’ll stroll past interesting works of art. One, in particular, sums up this hiking adventure quite well.

Visual artist Claudia Comte pays tribute to the natural wonder of Val Gardena with a timber sculpture that aptly spells out “WOOOW”. A word that needs no translation given the views all around. This universal expression of awe came together using 20 spruce trunks each nearly 20 feet high.

After returning to Ortisei, we highly recommend taking the time to see more works of art from the talented artisans of Val Gardena. Visit one of the many quaint woodcarving shops and studios dotted in and around the village.

To learn more about this charming centuries-old tradition born in the heart of the Dolomites, read about our behind-the-scenes visit with Deur Sculptures — a local woodcarving family with wood sculptures in some of the most celebrated cathedrals in the world.

Additional Tips & Considerations for Hiking Seceda

Access an easy-to-follow PDF of our Seceda hike to bring on your trip.
The Ortisei-Furnes gondola and Furnes-Seceda cable car operate from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm. Both open in early June and close mid-October. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways.
If you plan to hike down Seceda, make sure to schedule your hike when you will still have daylight.
Additional ways to reach Seceda include taking the Col Raiser gondola from St. Christina or the Resciesa funicular from Ortisei. Plan on extra time if using either option as they are a less direct route. If you do not like the idea of being elevated in a cable car, the Resciese funicular runs on tracks so you never leave the ground.
If you want to experience Seceda at sunrise or sunset or are a landscape photographer looking to shoot Seceda at night, we recommend booking an overnight stay at the Feremda Hut, Almhotel Col Raiser, or Rifugio Firenze. The other option for a sunrise view is to start the day early with a hike up from Ortisei. It also permitted to camp on Seceda in certain areas. If you plan to camp, be sure to pitch your tent away from private property and national parks. Also, pack up your site each morning.
The best time see to Seceda beaming with wildflowers and greenery rivaling Ireland is in July.
An additional breathtaking sight you may want to hike to along this route is the Crujeta summit cross near Mt. Pic off of trail no. 6.
If you plan to hike Seceda in spring or fall, but are not sure about the conditions on the summit, visit the tourist office in Ortisei. Staff will be able to advise you on the conditions and what gear you should have for your hike.
For stunning aerial shots of the peaks, you may want to consider using a drone. This post helps you select a quality drone that fits your budget.
For tips on hiking gear and clothing to wear for hiking Seceda, access the guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Be sure to pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

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A Halo of Ruin – Exploring the Castles of Eppan

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

Three castles, one hike? Every castle hunter should be so lucky. That was our first thought after discovering a halo of castles forming a stunning hike called “Three Castles Walk” in Eppan / Appiano, South Tyrol.

We had just arrived at Weingut Donà for a multi-day romantic adventure along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. The Hocheppan Castle perched high above our villa apartment caught our eye immediately. How could it not? It loomed from a rocky ledge along a sheer mountain wall. From where we stood far below, this 12th-century stronghold looked to be a marvel of the most medieval kind.

Over the Hills and Far Away

We considered setting out on the Three Castles Walk from Weingut Donà, but opted to drive up the mountain a bit to a nearby village called Missiano. Starting from here gave us the best chance of visiting all three castles. Plus, from the parking lot, we could follow well-marked signs pointing the way up to our first castle stop.

On a steep hill above the parking lot sat an enticing looking church. We made a mental note to visit it if we had time after consuming the three castles. South Tyrol can be joyfully exhausting for curious souls like us. It teems with such intriguing sights making it a land where one could explore endlessly.

A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

We began the Three Castles Walk along a paved road, but were soon enveloped by vineyards as we ascended the foothills of Mondelo mountain range. Hocheppan Castle teased us from afar. But each step offered us an ever-widening view of the valley below.

Jagged peaks of the Dolomites soared from the horizon beyond Bolzano. The infamous Witches Mountain (Sciliar / Schlern) cut into the sky like a gravestone just above the molten gold of leaves still clinging to the vines. It was a sight of pure South Tyrolean splendor.

All Along the Watchtower

Eventually, the vineyards became woodland and we found ourselves in a shroud of trees. The path steepened in the forest, but we came across several benches to catch our breath. We were about to turn a final corner to Hocheppan Castle when we happened to glance behind us. A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

Hocheppan Castle Chalk Tower — The 12th-century watchtower of Hocheppan Castle.

Veering off the main path, we hopped through the woods until finding another trail to the tower. Within 5 minutes we were at the foot of a sign reading “Kreideturm” (Chalk Tower). We darted up to the hill crest where the tower stood. Its appearance was rather austere. The tower looked like a poor man’s skyscraper. We discovered it was erected in the late 12th century as a watchtower for Hocheppan Castle. The king’s guard would ignite a chalk fire at the top of the tower to signal incoming danger.

We were not able to find a way into the tower so we moved on after thoroughly exploring the area. Walking through the forest back to the castle path, we came across a ghostly white face staring at us between the trees. We stood frozen. The face moved. Two horns flashed. Then the figure turned revealing a body much like a deer except it wasn’t. We watched with fascination as two chamois lightly floated over the forest floor seemingly without a care.

Chamois in the woods — Ghosts in the forest. Encounters with chamois while hiking to Hocheppan. Can you spot the second one?

At the Gate of Hocheppan

Twenty minutes later we finally came to the crumbling walls of Hocheppan Castle. Below us was a sweeping view that cemented why this fortress was built at this height. The castle itself is a remarkable ruin. Both a romantic and fierce sight at the same time. A tall bergfried looms from the castle’s heart, a medieval architectural relic that is rare in the Alps.

Once the mightiest stronghold in South Tyrol, Hocheppan came to crown the mountain around the year 1130. It sits at more than 2,000 feet and was the ancestral seat of the Counts of Eppan — sworn enemies to the Counts of Tyrol to the north. Given the name of the region you can guess who ultimately won.

Since the castle was closed for the season we were not able to wander whatever was left of its once kingly halls. Nor were we able to admire its famous chapel, which contains priceless ancient frescoes that paint a vivid picture of life during the Middle Ages.

Even though abandoned for more than 500 years, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been.

As we were alone at the castle, we sat silently on a bench admiring its form against the autumn sky. But we were not as alone as we thought. A cat crept up to our feet. She purred loudly nuzzling against our legs…clearly longing to be held. Who were we to argue? After coddling the cuddly furball, we set her free. She led us to the other side of the castle. No doubt its throne belonged to her as she was not in any way lost.

Castle Hocheppan / Appiano — Upon our arrival at Hocheppan Castle we were greeted warmly by the queen.

Hocheppan Castle Cat — As all castle visits must end, we bid farewell to the queen per the royal custom of South Tyrol.

To Boymont & Beyond

A sign on the path pointed us toward the second castle on our hike: Boymont. The trail took us down on a rocky ravine that we feared meant a steep climb at some point. Sure enough. Stairs built along the sheer cliff edge scaled the other side of the ravine. We sweated our way up the steps. The trail then snaked up a bit further before dropping us off at the door of Boymont Castle.

Boymont Castle is another ruin from centuries past. Its stone facade is quite different from Hocheppan. Boymont Castle wears a more reddish hue rather than gray and its decorative windows, with their arches and stone pillars, speak to an early Gothic style.

The Counts of Eppan built Boymont Castle in the 13th century. But they were not the first to reside on this castle hill. Archaeologists have found remnants from prehistoric times.

Boymont was not of military importance — serving as a luxurious residential manor instead. This is quite evident by its uncommon medieval form. Even though abandoned for more than 500 years after an arsonist set fire, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been. We peeked at the castle’s courtyard through an iron gate. It was magnificent. Definitely a place we will be returning to enjoy a South Tyrolean gem at its wine tavern.

Boymont Castle Windows — Admiring the early Gothic style windows of Boymont Castle.

We found the castle’s windows particularly fascinating. Peering through them long ago must have been exhilarating. Despite the fortress being in ruin, it was easy to picture its storybook past.

The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

After exploring all four corners of Boymont, we soaked in the panorama from the mountain’s edge. Steeples and tiled roofs colored the valley floor between sweeping swaths of vineyards and orchards. The sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. The third castle on the walk tempted us from some far off crag, but we saved conquering Castel Korb for another day. Being caught in the dark in a land haunted by legends was not how either one of us sought to spend the night. Besides we knew there was a bottle of wine waiting for us at Weingut Donà.

Once back at the villa apartment, we cleaned up and enjoyed a couple of glasses of Vernatsch before venturing to Bolzano for a feast at The Laurin Restaurant. Dining at a venue named after a royal legend seemed like the only appropriate way to end a day among regal ruins.

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

The best time to embark on the Three Castles Walk is obviously when the castles are open. However, we found having the trails and ruins to ourselves during the off-season especially memorable. Surprisingly, we lingered longer around each castle longer than we may if they had been open. The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

If you are visiting South Tyrol during summer and much of spring or fall you will be able to experience everything Hocheppan Castle and Boymont Castle offer. Hocheppan is open from early April to early November. It can be visited daily from 10 am to 6 pm excluding Wednesdays. Tours are available in English.

Boymont Castle is typically open from late March to early November. Hours are from 11 am to 5 pm every day except when shuttered on Mondays.

Both castles serve traditional South Tyrolean food and drink if you wish to sip and eat among the same stones as knights and kings.

TAP TO ADD TO YOUR BUCKET LIST!

The Must-See Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

Italy isn’t short on wine or gardens. For more than 2,000 years elegantly-cultivated gardens have flourished across the land. Gardens were held in such high regard by the ancient Romans that the philosopher Marcus Tullius Cicero stated: If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.

Hard to argue with such age-old wisdom.

While the magnificent gardens in Rome or Florence may come to mind when you seek out the lushness of Italy, you really should turn your attention much further north to South Tyrol. Here lies one of the most splendid gardens in all of Europe: the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle in Merano.

Nestled on a mountainside basking under the wooing glow of the Mediterranean sun, the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle are a wanderer’s dream. Trails wind through nearly 30 acres flush with local and exotic flora and woodland from all over the world. The gardens’ ingenious design and layout create a fascinating juxtaposition between natural, historic and modern elements. Practically every inch of earth here is designed to set your senses afire.

Is it a must-see? Without a doubt.

The Gardens of Eternal Bloom

For us, the best gardens tell a story. And the tale these majestic gardens tell could have been spun from the goddess of gardens herself. The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle immerse you in eternal bloom through four themed garden worlds: The Sun Gardens, Forests of the World, The Water & Terraced Gardens and Landscapes of South Tyrol.

Walking through the gardens one wonders if there is a plant on Earth not here.

With the Trauttmansdorff Castle as a medieval centerpiece, the gardens feature four circuit trails through 83 garden landscapes. Three panoramic paths also allow you to soak in striking views of the valley below and the surrounding snow-dusted mountains.

Walking through the gardens one wonders if there is a plant on Earth not here. You can go from passing under arcaded grape vines to frolicking through deep chestnut woodlands and olive and lemon groves to strolling around desert succulents and bamboo forests all within 2-3 hours. The immense amount of sights to explore always leaves us wishing we had more time.

Beyond the 5,800+ different flora species and varieties, you can also admire various artist pavilions, experience stations, waterfalls and an array of animals including prancing peacocks, colorful macaws, friendly rabbits, and not-as friendly goats. The castle itself serves as the South Tyrol Museum of Tourism, which presents a captivating history of Alpine tourism spanning 200 years.

The gardens also host open-air concerts featuring entertainers from all over the world. Although we have not been lucky enough to attend a concert yet, the setting looks divine as the stage floats over a water lily pond with palm trees silhouetting the horizon.

The History of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

The Trauttmansdorff Castle was first mentioned around 1300. Known then as Neuberg, it is home to a couple of legends. One tells that the castle was built on the site where Saint Valentine lived as a hermit in the 5th century. Another legend proclaims the fortress was part of the fortifications of the Roman settlement in Late Antiquity called “Castrum Maiense”, which became Merano. Walls from the Middle Ages along with crypts are still standing on the southwest side of the castle.

If the Earth laughs in flowers as Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote then The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is perhaps the happiest place on the planet.

In 1543, Nicholas von Trauttmansdorff took possession of the castle; however, it fell into ruin over a few centuries until another Trauttmansdorff came to its rescue. In 1850, Count Joseph von Trauttmansdorff bought the crumbling stronghold and began renovations in neo-Gothic style.

These architectural updates must have been quite impressive. Empress Elisabeth of Austria (known as Sissi) spent 7 months at the castle beginning in 1870. She had such an affinity for the castle’s beauty a bronze bust was dedicated to her after she was assassinated in 1898.

Today, you can take a pleasant stroll to the castle from the heart of Merano by following Sissi’s Path, which connects to what we consider the most enchanting walk in Italy.

During World War II, the castle was a German military encampment. Due to the ravages of war, almost all of its furnishings were lost and the castle once again began to decay. Fast forward several decades and the castle along with all of its land became the property of the provincial government of Bolzano. In the late 80s, several visionaries and garden enthusiasts came together with a plan to restore the castle and cultivate a botanical garden rivaling the greatest in Europe. They succeeded.

In 2001, The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle was opened to the public. This South Tyrol treasure has since won multiple awards including the designation as Italy’s Most Beautiful Garden in 2005 and the prestigious International Garden of the Year award in 2013.

Now that you know a bit of history of the castle, let’s dive into some of our favorite highlights from our visits.

Sweeping Panoramas that Steal Your Breath

The mountainside setting of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is a gift to those who love epic vistas. Several places throughout the gardens offer breathtaking stretches of land and sky that will make you click happy with your camera. Our suggestion is to snap a few pics and then fully take it in with your eyes. These are views you will not forget.

The Matteo Thun Viewing Platform is an especially surreal experience. It “floats” over the gardens allowing your eyes to feast on the vast grandeur unfolding before you. At these heights, it’s easy to spot other South Tyrolean landmarks in the distance.

The Matteo Thun Viewing Platform at Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle offers heart-pounding views.

Awash in Oceans of Petals

If the Earth laughs in flowers as Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote then the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is perhaps the happiest place on the planet. Flower buffs will have a field day a here. No pun intended.

On each of our visits, we have encountered everything from endless rows of tulips to fields of daffodils to roses in vivid bloom along with countless other flower species. The vast amount of colors that dance across your eyes is bedazzling. And the flowery fragrance you inhale as you roam about is intoxicating.

Trees from Around the World

The only thing more abundant than flowers at the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is trees. The gardens showcase woodland varieties from all over the world. We really admire the cypress trees that spring skyward from the Sun Gardens World. They bring about an even more regal presence to the castle backdrop.

One of the things we love most about the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is that it fully immerses you in natural wonders in new ways.

Equally enchanting are the gardens’ olive and lemon groves. It has been said the best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The second best time is now. Lucky for us some medieval visionary planted an olive tree 700 years ago that now thrives below the castle. This ancient tree stands among Italy’s northernmost olive grove. Its old, twisted form greets you from a path as if it’s about to impart some sage wisdom.

The bamboo forest is also fascinating especially if you’ve never been to the Far East. Experiencing the bamboo area provides a peek into how Asian cultures harness the trees for materials. And let’s not forget the towering palm trees. They are massive. We almost wanted to slip on beach sandals the first time we saw the gardens’ Mediterranean giants.

A 700-year old olive tree in South Tyrol — A medieval visionary planted an olive tree 700 years ago that now thrives below the Trauttmansdorff Castle.

Adam and Eve picking an apple at the gardens — Vin giving these two a boost as they pluck fruit from a tree.

Experience Nature in Remarkable New Ways

One of the things we love most about the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle is that it fully immerses you in natural wonders in new ways. From a multimedia Grotto to a Garden of Love, Botanical Underworld and much more, the gardens creatively capture your imagination and elevate your senses beyond expectations.

At the gardens, you can even summon a mountain spirit to experience a healing massage through a sounding stone. This involves surrendering your head to the mountain through a cavity and humming. The sounding stone reveals when you have hummed the right tone by sending soothing vibrations throughout your body. Such stones were used in ancient cultures to support healing and wellness.

Make sure to also trek to the Aviary high above the castle. Here, you admire ever chatty parrots in an environment that feels as if you wandered into a jungle.

Where's Kate in the garden maze? — Where’s Kate?

Being hard headed pays off. Experiencing the ancient wonders of sounding stones.

A couple pauses to take a selfie in the Garden of Love.

When to Explore the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle

Bringing the gardens to life and maintaining their beauty each year is no easy feat. More than 100 employees work through spring, summer and fall to ensure the promise of natural grandeur for every visitor. Good luck finding a weed.

The Trauttmansdorff team keeps the gardens open from the end of March to the middle of November. We have been to the gardens in the spring and fall. Both seasons here are equally magical. The sweet aromas of bloom and harvest follow your every step.

For us, we find the spring season the most enjoyable time to visit. Few things enliven you like the awakening of flora after a long winter slumber.

While you can cover the gardens in 2-3 hours, plan to spend a morning or afternoon exploring its glory. Each time we visit we dine afterward at the Schlossgarten Restaurant, which is located at the castle and offers lovely views of the gardens below. The restaurant features local specialties and pasta dishes.

Perhaps it’s the Mediterranean ambiance, but we’ve always craved pasta after visiting. The Italian cuisine we’ve dined on at the Schlossgarten has always been wonderful. It’s also a good place to rest your legs and sip a Veneziano, a favorite cocktail of the region.

Sipping on a Veneziano — The Schlossgarten Restaurant offers a lovely setting for a meal and a refreshing Veneziano or two.

Getting to the Gardens

Reaching the gardens is easy by foot, car or bus. As mentioned previously, you can walk the well-marked Sissi’s Path. It begins in downtown Merano and winds through the lovely Maia Alta neighborhood, which is dotted with castles, villas and other stately residences. The walk takes roughly 45 minutes. Plan for an hour if you like to meander like us!

If you have a rental car and are staying outside of Merano’s city center, parking is available for €3.50/day across from the gardens. Once you’ve parked you will take a footbridge over the highway to reach the ticket center.

To visit the gardens by bus you will take Line 1 or Line 1B depending on the day of the week you choose to come. We suggest confirming which line and checking the times by visiting the SASA bus service site.

The Gardens of Trauttmansdorff is open 7 days a week. The hours vary by season. You can look up the times by visiting their official website. Ticket prices are quite reasonable at €13.00. Kids 6 and under are free. Seniors receive a discounted price of €10.50.

As you can see the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle are a botanical and architectural masterpiece. A true jewel of Europe. If you are planning a visit to South Tyrol you need to add them to your itinerary. You will not regret making time to wander here.

The Most Enchanting Walk in Italy

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

How does one find the most enchanting walk in Italy — a country blessed from mountain to sea with so much rich history and natural splendor you could wander a lifetime and never cover it all? It starts with a glass of wine. What good story doesn’t really?

Our Italian vacation began in Milan with us wandering over the course of a week through Venice and Verona until arriving for our final chapter in South Tyrol. Venice and Verona were postcard perfect, but we didn’t develop a serious case of jaw-dropping wonder until rolling into Italy’s best-kept secret.

As we drove north, South Tyrol’s dramatic Alpine scenery unfolded into lush blessings of vineyards and orchards flourishing among towering castles, Gothic spires, Roman ruins and the wooing Italian sun.

Vino with a View

A late afternoon mist welcomed our arrival at Hotel Partaneshof. The sight of the hotel did not disappoint. Its chalet-style design charmed us immediately. The hotel’s rich wooden adornments warmly complemented its setting among terraced grape vines tumbling into an orchard. We were smitten.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offers an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite for us after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of wine from the Partaneshof cellar. After hustling a better part of the day, unwinding with a South Tyrolean vino was too enticing to pass up. Our room came with a balcony facing a wide open view of the Texel Mountains and valley. We lounged back in chairs and savored the view over a glass of white wine. If there was a better place to sit and ponder how we were going to spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was too perfect.

Prior to coming, we had read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade — a popular 2.5 mile path offering expansive views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures shared, we agreed. A long walk in the morning along the promenade sounded good to us both.

With our Merano itinerary made, we sat in silence watching the burning embers of dusk magically light the mountain crests. Our wine bottle went dry. Did we order another? You better believe it.

A Morning Made to Wander

In the morning, a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast of mountain-born cold cuts, freshly baked breads and yogurt topped with local berries met a quick end at our table. While it was tempting to linger in the sunlight pouring into the terrace, our wanderlust hearts were aching to explore.

Just beyond, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold.

We had no idea where to find the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running above Merano along the slope of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know it was several hundred feet above our hotel.

The map designated multiple places to enter the promenade. Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town by roaming the Winter Promenade and crossing the Passer River. From there, Merano’s Summer Promenade connects to the Gilf Promenade and then Tappeiner. Taking this route would allow us to see more than one promenade with the option to venture on various walks beyond.

Into Merano’s Old World Heart

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes, noting to stroll down its cobbled stone goodness later.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River meandering down the Winter Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of the year but is especially delightful in the winter when its sunny exposure washes away the chill. It carried us past rows of palm trees crowning flower beds, bustling riverside cafes and Merano’s celebrated Kurhaus — an Art Nouveau masterpiece from the 1800s that now hosts concerts.

Just beyond, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. This is the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, an elegant bridge with a wrought iron balustrade beautified by sunlit fleur de lis and grapevine motifs.

We crossed over the bridge and saw the Summer Promenade beginning to our left. But the curiously austere exterior of the 14th century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito next to it lured us in for a quick visit. Inside a solemn silence welcomed us. We were alone. Three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes reverently conceived more than 700 years ago. These precious historical treasures lit by candle flame hauntingly held our eyes. Such places have alluring energy — where past and present harmonize in a timeless stillness.

Following in the Footsteps of an Empress

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”. She was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Diamond glimmers from the morning's dew illuminated a myriad of luxuriant subtropical plants, elegantly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. Clearly, the Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudly from this promenade.

Sissi frequently visited Merano to unwind. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. A pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was a favorite activity of Sissi’s. Thus it’s fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk. Quite often we have seen Merano roses placed within her hands by an unknown admirer.

While the Winter Promenade bathed us in heavenly sunlight the Summer Promenade’s towering sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into the tree cover. Here, nature bestowed on us a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leafy canopy above. Walking along, the path gently sloped closer to the rushing river splashing soothing notes to various birds lost in song.

A Bridge Back in Time

The Summer Promenade is not very long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the mighty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

We ambled on the bridge stopping midway to admire the river roaring underneath. On the right side, a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge. Built in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned. But don’t fret. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another throne to claim is not difficult.

Awash in Lushness

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Winter and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward. Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The lushness around us was like an open-air conservatory.

Diamond glimmers from the morning’s dew illuminated a myriad of luxuriant subtropical plants, elegantly scented shrubs and exotic cacti. Clearly, the Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudly from this promenade. We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Vast tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright with autumn colors from the opposite cliff side.

After soaking up the romantically strewn view, we continued on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork of an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

Traversing the Tappeiner Promenade

We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steals a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and the chain of snow-kissed mountains swooping skyward from the valley floor.

It was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. His vision is a gift to visitors today. Immaculately manicured flower gardens litter the entire promenade punctuated with giant magnolias, cypresses, olive trees, palmettos and more. A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

Beyond the breathtaking panoramas riddled between the verdant veils, the Tappeiner Promenade offered us more sights to take in as we ventured onward.

The first was a crenelated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the imposing Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements’ commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

A Steeple to Steal Your Heart

We wandered down and proceeded along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steal a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. The tower possessed such a presence that if the sun refused to shine, glorious light would no doubt still fall upon Merano.

From this vantage point, we could discern details of its intricate clock and sundial. Many medieval towers bear a similar look, but the Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. The exquisite vision, craftsmanship and artistry it took to build the church in the 13th and 14th century make it a medieval marvel to behold.

The Saxifraga restaurant offers walkers an inviting place to rest along the Tappeiner Promenade.

After putting our camera into overdrive, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels and stately villas with pools divine for dipping in. While we were not hungry yet, we passed a handful of restaurants and cafes that presented the ideal place to ease back and absorb the surroundings. One particularly charming place was Saxifraga. Enshrouded in lush Mediterranean vegetation, the restaurant’s Alpine design peeks through inviting a seat in a wonderfully contrasting setting.

Savoring Saintly Scents

Our next stop along the promenade dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Set off the path laid a colorful garden flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants woven into the landscape.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from some celestial entity.

We floated through inhaling aromas of rosemary, thyme and other exotic scents. The fragrant beds had a calming effect slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine by us. If there’s one place where you should take your time it is on this walk.

Getting Lost in a Leafy Labyrinth

Eventually, the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grape vines now surrounded us from above and below. Unlike the cliche image of Italian vineyards stiffly spanning rolling fields, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades, made from rustic porticos with only the foliage of the vine visible.

Vineyards in Merano, Italy — Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade surrounds walkers in an arcade of vineyards.

South Tyrol’s vine painted slopes amid the pure white snow summits makes vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season begins to hint of frost, the leafy labyrinths radiate in a riotous array of brilliant colors. They flood the valleys in molten ruby and gold, descending like a gift from some celestial entity. One’s heart flutters at the sight of such inﬁnite beauty. And when the leaves softly sway you can be forgiven for thinking its the breath of heaven upon them.

A Walker’s Paradise

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — The Brunnenburg Castle beckons walkers from a cliff north of the Tappeiner Promenade.

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Tirol Castle, loomed from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, on a glacial moraine, the Brunnenburg Castle beckoned with its multi-turreted tower that looked as if Tolkien himself had written it into the mountainside.

But before meandering to its magnificence, we came across an ivy-clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

We sat in Cafe Unterweger’s sunny patio clinging to the cliff side. The bountiful orchards and vineyards of the Merano Basin valley held our eyes. The scent of ripe fruit caressed Alpine winds softly bathing us in the sweet fragrance of harvest. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation while sipping a Veneziano, a regionally-celebrated cocktail.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. We decided to continue the castle trek later. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another mouth-pleasing South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view, we had found just the right place for it.

Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies being pushed in strollers to elderly-aged people walking their dogs. And if you’re not feeling up to walking back to where you started, no worries. Merano offers several bus shuttles at various points throughout the area. The public transportation in South Tyrol is world class.

If enchantment is in your future, access our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. It provides tips on how to get to South Tyrol, where to stay, how to save money and more.