South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites

Updated: March 18, 2023

Deep in the Dolomites towers the haunting Cadini di Misurina — a mountain range at war with all that is above and below. Here’s how to visit this ravishing spectacle of Italy including the “Punto panoramico vista Cadini” (the mindbending Cadini di Misurina viewpoint).

No other mountains in the world ravage the skies like Cadini di Misurina. Their black-boned peaks appear like serrated spears heaved into the belly of heaven. You look at them and can’t help but wonder if each summit is hellbent on pillaging and plundering the very vault of God.

Indeed, these are not mountains merely content to brush passing clouds. No, they loom with bloodlust. Hunting the heavens with a maniacal devotion to defiling each whispy angel one by one until they smolder like the plumes of war.

Laying your eyes upon Cadini di Misurina for the first time leaves no doubt — if Mordor has a home on Earth it is here. What other mountain range rouses such a stirring sense of menace and marvel all at once?

⇒ DOWNLOAD OUR STEP-BY-STEP CADINI HIKING GUIDE (WITH MAP)

About Cadini di Misurina

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 2 — Cadini di Misurina may very well be the peaks that inspired J.R.R. Tolkien’s dark vision of Mordor in the Lord of the Rings. He visited the Dolomites as a young man.

The Cadini di Misurina Group is a part of the Sexten Dolomites (also known as Dolomiti di Sesto and Sextener Dolomiten), which encompasses a motley of mountains including the most famous peaks in the Dolomites: Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen). Beyond a vast bounty of breathless beauty, the Sexten Dolomites possess a deep storied past; both bewitching and tragic.

Burial finds verify the existence of ancient settlements in the region dating to the Mesolithic Age (approximately 10,000 B.C. to 8,000 B.C.). In fact, the intact skeleton of an ancient lost soul known as the Mondeval Man was found in a grave along with antlers and stone tools, not far from Cadini di Misurina, several years prior to the discovery of Ötzi the Iceman in the Ötztal Alps. Amazingly, the Mondeval Man roamed the mountains more than 2,000 years before Ötzi.

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 3 — Ancients roamed amid the peaks. Here lies the nearly 10,000-year-old skeleton of the Mondeval Man.

The Celts eventually settled the area, reigning for several hundred years, until the Romans conquered the Alps in 15 B.C. Roman rule gave rise to the Ladin language — an ancient tongue still spoken today in five valleys in the Dolomites. Ladin culture is woven into the very fabric of the mountains.

The name “Cadini di Misurina” is born from the even more melodious, “Ciadìs de Meśorìna”, which is what the Ladin people call the mountain group. “Ciadìs” denotes a deep ravine or valley. “Meśorìna” derives from “Meso ai Rin” meaning “in the midst of the streams”.

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 4 — Tip: After hiking Cadini di Misurina, stroll the shores of Lago di Misurina to see Tre Cime di Lavaredo and the Cadini Group from an entirely different perspective.

According to Ladin lore, Meśorìna was the demanding daughter of King Sorapiss who sought a magical mirror from a sorcerer high up on Mount Cristallo. Upon gazing into the mirror she saw her father metamorphosizing into a mountain. Horrified by the spectacle, Meśorìna fainted and fell into the abyss, lost to the world. Grief-stricken, streams of tears flowed from King Sorapiss giving rise to Lago di Misurina — an alpine lake beneath Cadini di Misurina often called the Pearl of the Dolomites. Like nearby Lago di Braies, Lago di Misurina’s waters ripple a rare jade amid the pale peaks.

Sadly, the loss of a fair maiden is not the only tragedy to befall this part of the Dolomites. During World I, the Alpine front between Italy and Austria blazed through the summits of Cadini di Misurina. The senseless devastation amid the peaks overwhelms. More than a million soldiers died fighting in the Dolomites from 1915-1917 (689,000 Italians and 400,000 Austrians). Something never to lose sight of when hiking here.

How to Visit Cadini di Misurina

Cadini Mountains on Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike — Even when the weather is not gloomy Cadini di Misurina soars with unbridled rage.

The Sexten Dolomites straddle both South Tyrol and Veneto (Belluno), Italy, and are located in the Drei Zinnen Nature Park (Parco Naturale Tre Cime). Cadini di Misurina forms the southern end of the range —stabbing the slice of sky between Lago di Misurina, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Zwölferkofel (Croda dei Toni) and Auronzo di Cadore, a town situated in a valley southeast of the mountain group.

The best way to visit Cadini di Misurina depends on whether you are intent on hiking Cadini di Misurina itself or enjoying its jarring vista from a distance. Most visitors to the Dolomites are content with hiking to the famous Cadini di Misurina viewpoint. If that’s you, consider basing yourself in the towns of Toblach (Dobaccio), Sexten (Sesto), Innichen (San Candido) and Cortina d’ Ampezzo. Each is 30-40 minutes from Cadini di Misurina viewpoint trailhead located by Rifugio Auronzo beneath Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

The Cadini di Misurina viewpoint can be reached through a point-to-point hike that takes approximately 1.5 hours, making it a convenient bonus destination to tackle before or after hiking the Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop. See below for step-by-step directions.

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 5 — Want to stay in the mountains of Mordor? Rifugio Fratelli Fonda Savio is located in the heart of Cadini di Misurina (photo credit: Rifugio Fratelli Fonda Savio)

If you are compelled like a hobbit to walk into the depths of Mordor, consider staying at Rifugio Fratelli Fonda Savio in the heart of Cadini di Misurina. This mountain hut is perched at nearly 7,800 ft (2,300+ m) directly under the Cime Cadin dei Tocci peak of the Cadini Group. Fonda Savio has 40 beds and can be reached within an hour by hiking trail no. 115 from Pian dei Spiriti, which is a 20-minute walk above Lago di Misurina.

The hut is along the Alta Via No.4, which is a long-distance hiking route in the Dolomites that stretches 50+ miles. Staying at Fondo Savio puts a number of Cadini Group hikes right out the front door including Vai Ferrata routes if you are up for a climbing adventure.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The 7 Best Places to Go Camping in the Dolomites

What Makes Cadini di Misurina so Mesmerizing?

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 6 — No ordinary mountains here.

Everywhere the Dolomites tower they seemingly defy alpine convention. It is as if they simply chose to ignore nature’s rule book for mountains. Nowhere is this more evident than Cadini di Misurina (although Seceda is a close second). To the unknowing eye, its hellish labyrinth of spires, towers, crevices and crags appears fashioned by an entity most unholy. The truth, however, is much less sinister, but just as fascinating.

The Dolomites’ origin story begins beneath a tropical sea 250 million years ago during the Triassic period. Their creation involved several enigmatic geological processes, each leaving its indelible mark on the landscape.

Over millions of years, the remains of shells, sponges, algae and other sea life accumulated on the sea floor creating atolls and coral reefs. During the Jurassic period, the age of dinosaurs, the seabed sediment slowly began to compress and congeal into solidified rock.

Next came a tempest of tectonic activity ravaging the seabed and tilting it skyward into mountains. Finally, the restless forces of earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, glaciers and the ruinous hand of wind, ice and rain sculpted the peaks we see today. All dramatic, beautiful and bizarre, but none possessing a profile as spellbinding and visceral as Cadini di Misurina. If Orcs do not call Cadini di Misurina home then Krampus certainly do.

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 7 — One does not simply walk into the Dolomites…without knowing its peaks.

The range contains more than a dozen daunting peaks. The three highest, Cima Cadin di San Lucano, Cima Eötvös, and Cima Cadin Nord Est, stand nearly 10,000 ft (2,700+ m). Other notable peaks include the arrowhead-like Cimon di Croda Liscia and the Torre Siorpaes, a mountain tower surely holding the all-seeing eye of Sauron.

It’s interesting to note that before the 19th century, the Dolomites were called the “Monti Pallidi” (Pale Mountains), a moniker as ghostly as the mountains themselves. However, in the late 1700s, a French geologist named Déodat de Dolomieu was the first to delve into the region’s geologic secrets with scientific rigor. He made a world-changing discovery as a result.

Through chemical reaction tests using hydrochloric acid, Dolomieu discovered the mountain rock did not bubble and fizzle like limestone. He concluded the Pale Mountains must be comprised of a unique mineral and published his observations in a well-respected French science journal. Less than a year later, in March 1792, Swiss chemist, Nicolas-Théodore de Saussure, confirmed Dolomieu’s findings and named the “new” rock type “Dolomite”. By the way, you can dive into the fascinating life and discoveries of Deodat De Dolomieu by visiting the Messner Mountain Museum located on Mount Rite, which is less than an hour south of Cadini di Misurina.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: How to Visit Val di Funes

How to Hike to the Wildest Cadini di Misurina Viewpoint

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 8 — Without a doubt, the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint offers one of the best views in the Dolomites.

A trip to Tre Cime di Lavaredo is not complete without taking the time to fully appreciate the grandeur of Cadini di Misurina. You can begin enjoying the mountain range’s chaotic profile as soon as you arrive at the Rifugio Auronzo parking lot, which is the most popular starting point for the Tre Cime loop hike and also happens to be the trailhead for the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint or Punto panoramico vista Cadini as you may see it called out on maps.

Note: See our post about visiting Tre Cime di Lavaredo for detailed directions and options for reaching Rifugio Auronzo by car or public bus. Or you can download our step-by-step hiking guide for access at your fingertips.

As we pointed out earlier, the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint is a 2-mile (3.2 km) out-and-back hike that takes roughly 1.5 hours. It is a relatively easy hike, but the final stretch to the viewpoint is not for those uneasy about heights. That said, you can still enjoy 90% of this hike without making the final walk to the famous viewpoint if you are not surefooted or comfortable. The views of Cadini di Misurina and the southern faces of Tre Cime di Lavaredo are astounding throughout much of the journey and you will encounter multiple lookout points and photo hotspots along the trail.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Alpe di Siusi

Step-by-Step Directions to Punto Panoramico Vista Cadini

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 9

To begin the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint hike, look for the trail no. 117 signpost set along the paved path right beneath Rifugio Auronzo.
Take trail no. 117 downslope, which will lead you in the direction of Cadini di Misurina and Rifugo Fratelli Fonda Savio. This stretch carries you over the Forcella Longeres saddle towards Monte Campedelle, which is more mound than mountain by the Cadini Group’s standards. Photo Tip: On your left side, will be the Vallon di Lavaredo, a yawning chasm that tumbles south deep into the Marzon Valley. On a clear day, you can see Lago di Auronzo shimmering in the yonder.
The Cadini di Misurina viewpoint is not signposted so when you eventually come to a fork in the trail stay to the right and continue hiking gradually upslope. The trail branching to the left is nerve-racking and should be avoided. Photo Tip: Be sure to turn around to snap the southern faces of Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Yes, you will face the peaks on the return hike, but if you’re visiting on a cloudy day the mountains can be shy in the blink of an eye so take in the views while you can.
Once you summit the slope, the Cadini Group will return to view and you will be able to spot the Punto Panoramico Vista Cadini, which looks like a strip of land made for launching mountain bikers into the hereafter. Photo Tip: If hiking to the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint makes you nervous then consider soaking in the peaks at the saddle summit instead of trekking down. The saddle summit viewpoint is breathtaking in its own right.
To reach the viewpoint, carefully follow the main trail downslope. When you arrive at the trail branching to the viewpoint be sure to wait if there is already another hiker on it. A) It is narrow, and B) the polite thing to do is always take turns whenever visiting a photo hotspot.
To return to Rifugio Auronzo, retrace the path you came. Moment of Zen Tip: We recommend sitting atop the saddle and refueling with a South Tyrolean apple before heading back. The views will make every bite sweeter.

⇒ DOWNLOAD OUR STEP-BY-STEP CADINI HIKING GUIDE (WITH MAP)

Cadini Di Misurina Hiking Map

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 10

Our Favorite Cadini di Misurina Viewpoint

When hiking the Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop trail you can admire Cadini di Misurina from a number of jaw-dropping vantage points. But the viewpoint we love the most is on the final stretch of the circuit hike. As you begin rounding Cime Ovest, the westernmost peak, a spectacular panorama of Cadini di Misurina unfolds before you.

From here, you can appreciate the entire northern face of the mountain range. Soaking in all the jagged wildness of Cadini di Misurina in one glance is a sight you will not forget.

Cadini di Misurina from Drei Zinnen hike

Another couple of stunning viewpoints of the Cadini Group are also nearby. As you begin the journey up the toll road to Rifugio Auronzo, you will pass Lago ‘d’Antorno, a small lake that makes for a great photo stop.

The lake offers a Shire-like setting to capture a different side of Cadini di Misurina, as well as a wholly different perspective of Tre Cime di Lavaredo, which looks like two ancient pyramids stacked one in front of the other.

Cadini di Misurina: Visit the Mountains of Mordor in the Dolomites 11 — Cadini di Misurina and Tre Cime di Lavaredo as seen from Lago d’Antorno.

When to Visit Cadini di Misurina

The toll road to Rifugio Auronzo opens at the end of May and closes at the end of October assuming heavy snow is not forecasted. You can begin driving the toll road at 7 a.m. each day after paying a fee of €30 per car. Like every popular destination in the Dolomites, if you want to experience the raw beauty of nature without crowds, arrive early. Once all parking spaces are taken at Rifugio Auronzo, the road can be closed to private cars. Another option is to take a shuttle bus from Toblach for €15 per person.

Trip Planning Made Easy: In addition to providing an easy-to-follow guide to hike Cadini di Misurina and Tre Cime di Lavaredo, our South Tyrol Travel Resources show you how to travel affordably, as well as how to use the public transit system so you can confidently plan your routes. LEARN MORE

Additional Tips to Make Your Hike More Enjoyable

Plan to hike to the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint on the same day you intend to hike the Tre Cime di Lavaredo circuit. The loop around the Three Peaks takes roughly 4-5 hours so expect to spend a minimum of 6 hours adventuring once you arrive at Rifugio Auronzo. If you are hiking when the huts are not open yet for the season or have closed, pack a lunch and water.
If you arrive at Rifugio Auronzo and encounter a herd of people embarking on the Tre Cime loop hike, give yourself some space and privacy by visiting the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint first rather than afterward.
If you arrive on a day when it is lightly raining or the trails are wet from previous rainfall, hike the Tre Cime loop first to give the Cadini di Misurina trail a chance to fully dry out. The last stretch of the Cadini hike is not safe when the trails are slick. On our first visit, we did not venture out onto the viewpoint because the trail conditions were sketchy. The sight was still awe-inspiring without taking a silly risk. Never leave your common sense at home when hiking in the mountains.
If you spot an Orc lurking amid the Cadini peaks, alert the proper authorities. Do not engage.

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Cadini di Misurina Viewpoint Hiking Guide Pin

Hiking Guide to Cadini di Misurina VIewpoint

The 7 Best Places for Camping in the Dolomites (2023)

Updated: March 6, 2023

If you want to experience the raw beauty of the Italian Alps, consider camping in the Dolomites. Whether you choose to pitch a tent, rent a tent, or camp with a caravan or a motorhome, we highlight the best campsites to consider for your trip.

Two common questions we receive are, “Can I go camping in the Dolomites?” and “What is the best campsite in the Dolomites?”. The answer to the first question is a resounding yes! The answer to the second question is it depends.

The Dolomites are massive. They are spread out over 350,000 acres in three provinces of Italy: South Tyrol, Trentino, and Belluno. The campground that is best for you depends on which sights want to explore in the Dolomites, the type of camping environment you hope to experience, and the time of year you plan to visit.

Finding the right place to camp in the Dolomites can be overwhelming. To make selecting your ideal camping location easier, we divided the region’s campgrounds by the main mountain attractions they are nearest to. In addition, we provide a direct link to securing your reservation once you find the right spot.

⇒ CLICK HERE TO SEARCH CAMPGROUND AVAILABILITY IN THE DOLOMITES

Wild Camping in the Dolomites

The 7 Best Places for Camping in the Dolomites (2023) 12

South Tyrol, Trentino, and Belluno all offer an abundance of official campgrounds. At many of them, you can enjoy electrical, gas, and water hook-up, Wi-Fi, and satellite TV along with a host of other amenities ranging from heated showers and pools to laundry rooms and playgrounds. Such modern comforts are not what many have in mind when it comes to camping in the Dolomites. We get it. Unfortunately, wild camping is technically prohibited in Italy’s nature parks which cover much of the Dolomites.

That said, many people still wild camp throughout the Italian Alps without issue. But if you choose to do so, keep in mind the following:

Only pitch your tent in the evening and take it down at first light
Avoid popular tourist areas
Do not camp in one location for more than 24 hours
Keep the Dolomites pristine – Do not make a campfire and leave absolutely no trace
Be over-prepared – Weather conditions can quickly change in the mountains. We learned this the hard way. Check out how to stay warm in a tent for helpful tips

For now, authorities do not appear to be aggressively enforcing rules against wild camping. That may change if over-tourism worsens. Fines issued for wild camping can range from €100 – €500.

Camping in the Dolomites by Holiday Region

The campgrounds in the Dolomites offer something for nearly every type of camper. You do not have to pack camping gear to experience many of these wonderful getaways. The variety of amenities available makes them a smart choice for budget-minded travelers or those simply looking for a new experience in the Dolomites. By the way, you can search campsite availability of many campgrounds in the Dolomites, reserve your pitch and find deals via Booking.com.

Camping Near Alpe di Siusi

The 7 Best Places for Camping in the Dolomites (2023) 13 — One of the best places to go camping in the Dolomites is near Alpe di Siusi.

Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm) is located in South Tyrol and is the largest mountain plateau in Europe. It offers more than 270 miles (440 km) of hiking trails and jaw-dropping views of some of the Dolomites’ most striking peaks such as the thunderous Sassolungo.

Camping Alpe di Siusi (also known as Camping Seiser Alm) is situated at the foot of Mt. Schlern (Sciliar), the iconic symbol of South Tyrol, Schlern-Rosengarten (Sciliar-Catinaccio) National Park. In addition to being next to Alpe di Siusi, the campground is close to Laghetto di Fiè, a beautiful swimming lake beneath the peaks.

Camping Alpe di Siusi offers a variety of accommodation options, including traditional camping pitches for tents, caravans, campervans, and motorhomes. Guests more interested in glamping can also rent rustic chalets, alpine apartments, and a secluded “organic” tent for two that is made of biodegradable raw materials. The campground also offers an on-site restaurant and mini-market along with wellness amenities including a saltwater pool and saunas.

If you choose to camp here, review our hiking Alpe di Siusi guide to discover the best huts and trails in the area. You could spend your entire time in the Dolomites exploring this vast alpine pastureland.

Camping Near the Rosengarten & Latemar Groups

The 7 Best Places for Camping in the Dolomites (2023) 14 — Camping Catinaccio Rosengarten places you near the epic Dolomites mountain range of the same name.

The Rosengarten (Catinaccio) Group is the famous Dolomites mountain range visible from the city of Bolzano. This mighty massif is known for “blushing” at sunset when the natural phenomena alpenglow alights the peaks in rosy hues. The Latemar Group is the chain of peaks providing the breathtaking backdrop to Lago di Carezza, a small alpine lake that shimmers as if a rainbow runs through its waters.

If you want to explore the wonders of these mountain worlds, consider a stay at Camping Catinaccio Rosengarten. This family-run campground is located in Val di Fassa, a gorgeous valley in the heart of the Dolomites that belongs to Trentino. In less than 10 minutes, campers can reach the nearest lift station and be hiking amid the summits of the Rosengarten in no time. The scenic circuit hike around Lago di Carezza is just 20 minutes away.

The campground is located in a quiet area and offers pitches for tents, caravans, and campervans. Furthermore, you can rent a caravan or stay in a chalet or apartment if you wish. What makes Camping Catinaccio Rosengarten truly special is the campground’s wellness area. It includes a sauna, steam room, relaxation room, and a soothing spa shower.

⇒ CLICK HERE TO SEARCH CAMPGROUND AVAILABILITY IN THE DOLOMITES

Camping Near Val Gardena, Val di Funes & Alta Badia

Camping in the Dolomites near Sassolungo — Camping in the shadow of the Sassolungo Group.

The Puez-Odle Nature Park (Puez-Geisler) is home to some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the Dolomites. More than 80 peaks emblazon the nature park, which stretches through South Tyrol’s Val Gardena, Val di Funes, and Alta Badia holiday regions.

Camping Colfosco is situated between the villages of Colfosco and Corvara and is the only official campground next to the park. The most famous mountain destinations near the campground include Sassongher, Peitlerkofel, Seceda and the Geisler Group, the Sassolungo Group, and the Sella Group.

Camping Colfosco offers spacious pitches for tents, caravans, campervans, and motorhomes. You can also rent “ciasotas”, which are small cozy wood houses that can accommodate up to 4 guests. The campground features a range of amenities including a playground, and swimming pool, as well as a restaurant and boutique grocery store. In addition, Camping Colfosco features tennis courts and a fishing pond to enjoy when you are not hitting the trails.

Passo delle Erbe in the Dolomites — The famous Würzjoch Alpine Pass (Passo delle Erbe) is at the entrance to the Puez-Odle Nature Park.

Another option in Alta Badia is Camping Sass Dlacia, the highest campground in the Dolomites. Camping Sass Dlacia is near the village of San Cassiano and sits at an elevation of 5,500+ ft (1,680 m) amid the alpine glory of Mt. Settsass and Mt. Conturines. It offers similar amenities to Camping Colfosco, but also has a wellness center on the grounds that features a Turkish bath, a bio sauna, and a Finnish sauna.

Staying at Camping Sass Dlacia places you closer to the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Nature Park and the Natural Park of the Ampezzo Dolomites, which includes famous sights such as Cinque Torri, Mt. Lagazuoi, and the Croda Rosa and Cristallo Groups. Like Camping Colfosco, the campground is open in the winter and is minutes away from the Sella Ronda (Sellronda) ski resort making them ideal camping locations for snow sport lovers. In addition, mountain bikers should consider both campgrounds as they allow one to easily tackle the famous Sella Ronda mountain bike tour.

Camping Near Lago di Braies in Val Pusteria

The 7 Best Places for Camping in the Dolomites (2023) 15 — Camping is not allowed on the shores of Lago di Braies, but the lake is just a short drive from Camping Olympia.

If you want to camp in the vicinity of what many consider the most beautiful lake in the world, Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee), you have a few options to pick from. None are on the shores of the lake, unfortunately. The closest camping location if you have a campervan, caravan or motorhome is to pay to park in the P1 or P2 lots located right next to the lake. See our guide on visiting Lago di Braies for more information on how to enjoy this treasure of the Dolomites.

The next nearest campground is Camping Olympia, which is tucked in a forest along the Rienz river between the towns of Monguelfo-Tesido and Toblach (Dobbiaco). Campers can reach Lago di Braies in 20 minutes by car.

Camping Olympia has been around for 70+ years and offers 200 pitches for tents, campervans, caravans, and motorhomes. It also has two on-site restaurants, a heated swimming pool, a wellness oasis, a minimarket, a playground, and a kid-friendly animal park with ponies, goats, swans, geese, pheasants, rabbits, and meerkats. Those looking for greater comfort also have the option to rent alpine lodges or apartments on the property.

An additional campground in the vicinity of Lago di Braies is actually situated on the shores of Toblacher See (Lago di Dobbiaco), another magnificent alpine lake in the Dolomites. If you like the idea of waking up next to a mirror-still lake reflecting mountains in the morning mist, Camping Toblacher See is your place.

Camping Toblacher See offers a tent meadow and pitches for caravans, campervans, and motorhomes. Beyond the stellar lake and mountain views, the star of the campground is Seeschupfe, a picturesque restaurant offering a sun terrace and a top-notch wine cellar holding around 500 labels from South Tyrol and around the world. A shop is also on-site providing campers with an assortment of local specialties and everyday use items.

Camping Toblacher See’s Skyview Chalets are another gem on the campground. These adult-only mini-lodges are perfect for couples looking for a romantic escape. Each chalet provides a direct view of Toblacher See and features a sun deck and whirlpool.

Camping Near Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Three Peaks of Lavaredo also known as Drei Zinnen and Tre Cime di Lavaredo.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) is usually the first mountain destination that comes to mind when considering visiting the Dolomites. And for good reason. The immensity of the Three Peaks and their peculiar shape captivates the imagination. So much so that hiking Tre Cime can become an obsession for mountain lovers.

The nearest campgrounds to Tre Cime di Lavaredo are Camping Olympia and Camping Toblacher See mentioned above. From both, you can be at the Tre Cime trailhead in less than an hour’s drive. If you have a campervan, caravan, or motorhome, you can park overnight in a designated lot at Rifugio Auronzo — allowing you to enjoy Tre Cime di Lavaredo at sunrise and sunset. See our Tre Cime guide for how to drive to Rifugio Auronzo, as well as how to add a bonus hike to Cadini di Misurina, the most epic viewpoint in the Dolomites.

Another camping option that is a little bit further away, but in a gorgeous part of the Dolomites is Caravan Park Sexten. It is situated just outside the town of Sexten (Sesto) beneath a panoramic view of the Sexten Sundial, a natural spectacle that is the largest sundial in the world. Five peaks in the Dolomites form the sundial: Cima Nove, Cima Dieci (Croda Rossa di Sesto), Cima Undici, Cima Dodici, and Cima Uno.

Those wanting to enjoy the charms of camping yet experience the health benefits of alpine wellness will adore Caravan Park Sexten. The entire campground is essentially a wellness resort for campers. Its 5-star wellness spa is truly special. The facility includes an indoor and outdoor pool, nine different saunas, a Kneipp Park, and an array of services ranging from massages to skin care treatments.

Caravan Park Sexten offers pitches for tents, caravans, campervans, and motorhomes, as well as a unique glamping opportunity in one of two treehouses on the campground. And if you tire of camping, consider checking into the Mountain Resort Patzenfeld located on-site.

⇒ CLICK HERE TO SEARCH CAMPGROUND AVAILABILITY IN THE DOLOMITES

When is the Best Time to Go Camping in the Dolomites?

The best time of year to go camping in the Dolomites depends on your personal preferences and what you are looking to do while camping. Every season in the Dolomites is stunning. However, here are some general guidelines:

Summer: The months of June, July, and August offer the best weather for camping in the Dolomites. Naturally, it is also the busiest time. The days are typically sunny and warm, but there is also a higher chance of rain storms during the summer so rain gear is a must.

Spring and Fall: These seasons offer cooler temperatures and fewer crowds, making it a great time for those who prefer a quieter camping experience. The wildflowers are in bloom in late spring, and the fall foliage blanketing the Dolomites is sensational. If you are a photography enthusiast, spring and fall are the time to go in our opinion.

Winter: Winter camping in the Dolomites can obviously be more challenging due to colder temperatures, wind, and snow, but it can also be a highly-rewarding experience if you enjoy skiing and snowshoeing. Wild camping in the winter is recommended only for experienced and well-equipped campers with proper gear and know-how.

No matter when you choose your Dolomites camping trip, remember to always check the weather forecast before setting out, especially if you intend on wild camping. Also, be sure to pack hiking essentials and let someone know where you will be camping in the Dolomites otherwise you could end up like Ötzi the Iceman. And it may be 5,000 years before anyone sees you again.

SAVE CAMPING IN THE DOLOMITES FOR LATER!

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The 7 Best Places for Camping in the Dolomites (2023) 17

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Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

Updated: February 18, 2023

Planning to visit South Tyrol in autumn? Discover why Törggelen should be a part of your adventure.

In a land with as many deep-rooted traditions as soaring mountain peaks, it’s no wonder the festive souls of South Tyrol sought to make a beloved autumn custom its very own season. Touted as South Tyrol’s fifth season, Törggelen is a centuries-old tradition celebrating the harvest’s new wine called “Nuier”, “Suser” or “Sauser”. The tradition typically entails a hearty hike in the afternoon followed by an even more hearty feast with roasted chestnuts and wine sampling in the evening.

Rural taverns or farmhouse inns called “Buschenschank” or “Törggelekeller” host the gatherings throughout Valle Isarco (Eisacktal Valley), as well as in many other chestnut-friendly corners of South Tyrol. The Törggelen feast traditionally involves sharing a table in a special room known as a Stuben. Clad in wood from floor to ceiling with a crucifix hung in the corner, these rustic parlors radiate coziness – warmly taking you back centuries to a time when life was simpler – the hours passed slower – and moments of leisure were spent honoring customs and nourishing relationships.

We fell in love with Törggelen after our first experience. If you’re a fan of fall comfort food, delicious wine and good cheer, you will too. But before we show you what the tradition is like, it pays to know a bit about Törggelen’s origins.

⇒ Start planning your Törggelen adventure: Access our travel resources & step-by-step hiking guides

The Beginnings of Törggelen

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 20 — There are more than 50,000 chestnut trees in South Tyrol. The oldest, shown here, is located near the village of Lajen and is estimated to be between 600 and 800 years old.

Törggelen occurs through much of autumn from late September to the start of the Christmas season in mid-November. According to local lore, this is the time when the Wein-Nörggelen, a mischievous band of dwarves descend from the mountains to steal the wine of the harvest.

The Törggelen tradition is thought to have begun centuries ago in Valle Isarco as a private gathering among neighbors. After a successful grape harvest, the local winemaker would invite nearby friends to a jovial evening sampling the new wine.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 21 — The heart of Törggelen is a gesture of gratitude for good food, wine, friends and neighbors.

Now, this is not the kind of wine found on the shelf of your local wine shop. It is a wine from freshly crushed grapes in the early stages of fermentation — cloudy in color and potently sweet in flavor. In fact, the name Törggelen originates from the Latin word for wooden wine press. The Törggelen term “Buschenschank” dates back to the late Middle Ages when a bushy tree branch was placed above farmhouse doorways signaling to guests their kitchen was open.

Törggelen hosts accompanied the new wine with autumn specialties such as fire-roasted chestnuts (called “Keschtn”), as well as pumpkin or barley soup, knödel dumplings, and an assortment of cured sausages known as “Schlachtplatte”, which translates to slaughter plate. After ample amounts of drinking and eating, the evening typically concluded with dancing and belting out traditional folk songs.

Today, the tradition remains much the same, however, many farmhouse inns no longer only cater to a handful of well-known guests, but instead welcome strangers throughout the two-month-long celebration. These humble farmers thrive on the company and regale guests after the feast with tales of life in rural South Tyrol.

An Evening of Törggelen at Rielingerhof

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 22

Our most recent Törggelen adventure took place at Rielingerhof, an organic wine farm located at 2,400+ feet on the Renon (Ritten) high mountain plateau. Renon lies just northeast of Bolzano providing a convenient escape to the highlands for residents and visitors alike. Thanks to a cable car, one can quickly go from standing on the cobblestones of South Tyrol’s capital to soaking in the Dolomites roaring over Renon’s pastureland.

The Rielingerhof farm is a historic treasure of Renon and one of only 15 Buschenschanks selected by the Red Rooster farm association to participate in South Tyrol’s “Authentic Törggelen” initiative. Farmhouse inns brandishing the Red Rooster brand adhere to strict quality standards that “put people in touch with the rural world of South Tyrol” in the most authentic way possible.

As Törggelen-themed celebrations and events have grown in popularity, Red Rooster launched the Authentic Törggelen initiative to ensure autumn revelers can experience Törggelen as it was traditionally celebrated. Participating farmhouse inns are located near the Chestnut Trail (Keschtnweg) in Valle Isarco, as well as near the ancient chestnut groves found along the South Tyrolean Wine Road on up through the Merano valley basin.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 23 — The ruins of Castel Pietra jut above the vineyards of Rielingerhof. The farm is a member of the Independent Winegrowers of South Tyrol and boasts a portfolio of eight highly-regarded wines branded under the name “Rielinger”.

According to Matthias Messner, who operates Rielingerhof with his wife, Evi, and their children, the farm was first mentioned in a document at the beginning of the 13th century. The farm’s mountainside perch sits above the ruins of Castel Pietra (Stein Castle), which was also built in the 13th century, but ultimately abandoned in the 17th century. Through the centuries, the Rielingerhof farm provided food and wine for the nobles of the castle.

As we discovered, Rielingerhof remains true to its hospitable roots. Within minutes of our arrival on the farm, Matthias introduced himself and offered us a glass of wine. While we waited for the rest of the evening’s guests to arrive, we walked through the vineyards rolling down the mountainside. The sweet fragrance of grapes and the mighty backdrop of Schlern infused the farm with an air of romance.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 24

Upon returning to Rielingerhof’s outdoor tavern area, we gathered with the other guests next to an old stone barn where Matthias began the Authentic Törggelen celebration by lighting the “Keschtn” fire in an outdoor stove. As his children took turns roasting the chestnuts, he made sure we all had fresh pours in our glasses before sharing the history of the farm and the Törggelen tradition.

We made quick friends with a group of festive Germans who were staying overnight at Rielingerhof. They spoke excellent English so we were able to share stories back and forth of our travels in South Tyrol. After devouring the last handful of roasted chestnuts, two of our new friends broke into a cheerful folk song filling the farm with melody.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 25 — Matthias kicks off Törggelen by roasting chestnuts and telling tales of the tradition.

As the daylight faded away, Matthias led us to the farm’s old Stuben for the feast portion of our Törggelen celebration. With walls adorned in rich-toned wood, vintage family portraits hung throughout and tables aglow under candlelight, Rielingerhof’s farmhouse parlor is a portal to the past.

We were seated with another fun couple from Germany who also happen to speak English. More wine was brought to the table allowing us to refill our glasses before diving into a bevy of homemade South Tyrolean delicacies.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 26 — Matthias and his wife, Evi, are the third generation of Messner’s to manage the Rielingerhof farm.

First came a savory barley soup dazzled with fresh mountain-born herbs followed by a lush plate of Schlutzkrapfen (ravioli pasta stuffed with spinach and Parmesan). Next, Rielingerhof brought us a plate of knödel (dumplings) paired with potatoes butter-roasted until surely as gold as the crown of Castel Pietra. The final dish was a glorious platter of sausage and ham resting on a heap of sauerkraut.

Every bite of our Törggelen meal meandered between delicious and downright heavenly. The freshness served at our table was a clear testament to Rielingerhof farming or foraging each ingredient.

We wrapped up the evening sipping more Rielingerhof wine while sharing more stories in between even more folk songs. It was the kind of memory etching night only a feast like Törggelen can make happen.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 27 — **Törggelen serves up delightful company along with comfy fare. Each celebration offers a chance to revel with others from all walks of life.**

An Evening of Törggelen at Winkler hof

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 28

Our very first Törggelen experience began with a hike across South Tyrol’s Villanderer Berg mountain to a famous trio of chapels in Barbian (Barbiano) known as the Dreikirchen. After the hiking outing, we ventured to the Winkler Hof farm in the hamlet of Sauderer (St. Moritz), just below Villanders (Villandro).

Owned by Luise and Anton Fink, the farmstead was first mentioned in 1314. It beams with Alpine character from a sun-steeped slope next to the church of St. Moritz, a mountainside chapel built in 1406.

The Fink family raises everything from dairy cows to pigs to hens and goats, as well as produces wine along with an assortment of berries and vegetables. They also supplement their income by offering guests a “farm stay” in one of three apartments located on the farm.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 29 — Upon arriving at Winkler Hof we were greeted by the guardian of the farm. This feathered host pointed us to Winkler Hof’s rustic Stuben.

We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse Stuben wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts. From the table settings to the touches of Tyrolean folk art gracing the walls, every nook imparted an old-world ambiance that transports you to another time.

Our feast began with a bowl of sweet roasted chestnuts, a spread of speck and a glass of new wine from the farm’s Vernatsch grapes. This was followed by hearty bowls of pumpkin soup and barley soup.

Then came a delicious dish of tris knödel, which is a speck, cheese and spinach dumpling served together atop Schlutzkrapfen. A drizzle of melted butter crowned the heavenly fare. Ending the feast here would have typically been the wise thing to do, but not very South Tyrolean.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 30

Then came the main act. An immense platter (the “Schlachtplatte”) of smoked sausages (“Kaminwurzen”), pork and ham atop a bed of sauerkraut soon arrived tipping us from full to stuffed. But when the tray of sweets bounded on our table we somehow mustered the strength to devour every last bite of Krapfen (pastries filled with jam) and chestnut cake.

The rural revelry continued when Mr. Fink joined us at the table in his traditional attire to share a bit of history about Winkler Hof and Törggelen. To our surprise, we discovered the chestnuts we consumed were ‘erotic’ as he put it. Teeming with pheromones that made them the best aphrodisiac this side of the Alps.

Whether he was joking with us or not, we could not tell. The bottomless pitcher of wine throughout the night had done its job.

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 31 — Nothing brings people together like a good meal and a shot of Schnapps!

Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine Schnapps. This mystery arrived in a small glass and wore an amber so deep it was almost hypnotic.

We toasted our friends across the table, Antonia and Diego, before splashing the potion down. It was invigorating; like a bolt of pure Alpine air jolting through you from mouth to feet. Undoubtedly, a proper way to end a grand feast on a mountainside in South Tyrol.

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TIPS for Törggelen

Discover Törggelen: South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition 32 — **South Tyrol offers several Törggelen-themed hikes that rouse a merry spirit well before your first sip of wine.**

There may be no better time to hike and feast than in autumn. The mountains and valleys are ablaze with gold and burgundy hues and the season’s briskness inspires a hunger only hearty cuisine can satisfy.

While you do not have to endure a lengthy hike to partake in a Törggelen celebration, we cannot recommend enjoying a fall trek enough. If you would like help embarking on a Törggelen adventure, we can put together an amazing itinerary that will forever change how you view autumn.

Those planning their own fall visit to South Tyrol should keep in mind that Törggelen typically requires booking in advance. Partaking in the custom is quite popular so we suggest contacting establishments more than a month out from your trip.

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for introducing us to the Törggelen tradition!

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon

Updated: February 13, 2023

The sunken bell tower of Curon casts a ghostly spell over the waters of Lago di Resia. It seems to be looking at you as much as you are looking at it. In this post, we share the mystery behind this 14th-century enigma and how you can experience her eerie enchantment.

More than 60,000 churches adorn Italy. Many take your breath away with their grand beauty while others arouse a sigh, kindled by their pastoral charm. But none captivates you like the one spiring from the depths of a lake in South Tyrol.

The partially submerged church tower of Curon (commonly referred to as the Campanile di Curon) stands in stark contrast to the polished jade of Lago di Resia. The largest lake in South Tyrol, Lago di Resia (also known as Reschensee, Reschen Lake and Lake Resia) lies in the mountain-rimmed region of Val Venosta (Vinschgau) near the border of Switzerland and Austria.

When admiring the tower from the shore one can’t help but wonder what lies beneath. The history books will tell you: the village of Curon (Graun). A local, on the other hand, will tell you: heartache.

All in the Name Of…

You might think the sunken bell tower of Curon is the result of some natural calamity. Perhaps a Pompeii-like tragedy centuries ago. But in actuality, the tower is only underwater in the name of modern-day “progress”.

In 1950, despite furious resistance from residents and even a plea from the Pope, governmental authorities allowed the Montecatini energy company to flood the valley to merge two natural lakes, Mittersee and Reschensse, into one massive artificial lake, which would support a hydroelectric plant.

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 34 — Curon (Graun) and the bell tower of St. Catherine Church as it was in the late 1800s. The church was founded in 1357.

However, the two smaller lakes were not the project’s only flood victims. The picturesque villages of Curon, Arlung, Piz, Gorf, Stockerhofe and parts of Reschen along with nearly 1,300 acres of fertile farmland were swallowed up by the reservoir. The livelihoods of around 1,000 villagers were forever changed and 163 homes along with 120 farms disappeared beneath the waves.

Sadder still, the government’s compensation for such immense loss was paltry. Families were forced to flee the land of their ancestors and resettle on the slope of Klopaierspitze, a mountain above Curon, or make a home elsewhere in South Tyrol and beyond.

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The Desolation of Curon

Prior to the flooding, the Montecatini energy company commissioned explosives to be set off in the villages to demolish the homes, storefronts, inns and taverns, as well as the historic Church of St. Catherine in the heart of Curon. However, not all of it was sentenced to rubble. The Romanesque bell tower of the church dates to the 14th century, therefore, it was of too much historical value to destroy.

Before the demolition of Curon, residents were tasked with the grim burden of relocating their deceased loved ones from the cemetery of St. Catherine’s to a cemetery by the Church of St. Anna, located on a hill above the doomed village. On Sunday, July 16 at 8:00 p.m. the silvery voice of St. Catherine was heard for the last time. Her bells rang for half an hour then fell silent. They were removed from the tower before the blasts began on July 23.

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 35 — All of Curon except its 14th-century Romanesque bell tower was destroyed prior to the flooding.

Those who heard the bell tower ring out Curon’s farewell say it was unforgettable. Also, unforgettable was watching the flood waters advance day by day into the valley — the creeping death of countless dreams and a way of life held dear. The memory haunts many to this day.

When the waters stopped rising, newly born Lago di Resia held 31.7 billion gallons of fresh water or 120 million cubic meters. It stretched nearly four miles (9 km) transforming the appearance of the valley from end to end. The mighty breath of Mt. Ortler no longer made the face of the land sway with hues of green and gold, but ripple a sky blue. And the bell tower of Curon no longer stood as a holy icon of a beloved village, but as a stark stone testament to the price of heartless progress.

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The Legend of the Curon Bell Tower

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 36 — Will the bells toll for you?

In a land where lore and legends are as lavish as the snow-capped peaks, it’s no surprise the heartbreaking fate of Curon would spawn its own folktale.

According to legend, in the bleakness of winter, when the night winds of Ortler howl like a raving pack of wolves, one can hear the bells ringing in the tower. Some say if you are one of the unlucky souls to catch a whisper of the tower tolling, death soon follows. But rest easy, there is not an official record of anyone dying after hearing the bells.

As you may be aware, Lago di Resia and its sunken bell tower have gained renewed interest due to the supernatural series “Curon” on Netflix. Much of the series was filmed in and around Curon and it tells the chilling tale of a mother originally from Curon who disappears after returning to the town with her two children. The legend of the Curon bell tower supposedly inspired the writers of the series.

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How to Visit Lago di Resia & the Sunken Bell Tower oF Curon

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 37 — Amazing hikes surround Lago di Resia.

Given the striking sight of the Curon bell tower standing stoic amid a sea of green and blue, the attraction lands on many travelers’ bucket lists. Several come to Lago di Resia simply to admire it from the shore, snap a selfie and leave. That is a mistake.

Lago di Resia and this corner of Val Venosta offer so much more to see. The ancient imperial road called Via Claudia Augusta still runs through the region after all. It was built nearly 2,000 years ago by the Romans.

Our advice is to spend at least a couple of nights in the area to enjoy a bit of the natural and historic splendor all around. If you visit in the summer and fall, you can take advantage of incredible hiking and biking opportunities high above the lake where you can soak in some of the best views in South Tyrol.

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Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 38 — A gorgeous promenade loops around Lago di Resia.

A 9-mile trail (15 km) also circles the lake which we recommend walking in the morning or early evening. The stroll enthralls by pairing mountain views with the shimmer of Lago di Resia.

Lago di Resia itself offers a bounty of recreational activities. You can rent kayaks and pedal boats to float about the lake or try mastering the mountain winds by kitesurfing and windsurfing.

Lago di Resia: Discover the Sunken Bell Tower of Curon 39 — The winds of King Ortler, South Tyrol’s tallest mountain, make Lago di Resia a rippling playground for kite and windsurfers.

If you visit Lago di Resia in the winter, you can actually walk across the frozen lake to the Curon bell tower. An even more delightful way to reach the tower is on ice skates, which can be rented nearby. If ice skating is too tame for your tastes, consider hitting the groomed slopes above the lake. Several ski resorts are located along the Reschen Pass offering an abundance of downhill skiing and snowboarding opportunities.

We recently stayed at the Chalet am Reschensee — an authentic Tyrolean hunting lodge hidden in a forest above Lago di Resia. Its location was perfect for exploring the area and its cozy warm ambiance charmed our lederhosen right off.

For those that do not have the time to spend more than a day at Lago di Resia, we recommend arriving early and parking at the large lot located directly across from the bell tower (navigate to Campanile di Curon Venosta Vecchia). There is no fee to park.

Be sure to trek up the nearby hill to the Church of St. Anna where you can enjoy a sweeping panorama of the lake and tower. If you decide to walk around Lago di Resia, plan on 4 hours. We also recommend bringing a light jacket as it can get chilly if the alpine winds are roaring over the water.

If you would like to explore the history of the submerged village of Curon, consider visiting the Alta Val Venosta Museum in the re-established village located upslope from the bell tower.

Add Lago di Resia to Your Travel Board

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders

Updated: January 10, 2023

Villanders is a thousand-year-old mountain village blessed with heavenly views of the Dolomites and the vast beauty of Valle Isarco (Eisack Valley). Discover why the golden light of autumn is the idyllic time to explore its cobbled streets and chestnut-ragged trails.

The first signs of Villanders (also known as Villandro) emerged on the sun-seduced slopes of Villanderer Berg mountain more than 6,000 years ago. Archaeological findings indicate an ancient community thrived on the mountainside.

The hunters and gatherers of our Neolithic past must have found the fertile Villanderer Berg a steady feast for their flint-tipped spears and grass-woven foraging baskets. Or perhaps they simply stayed for the view.

It is utterly breathtaking after all. The Dolomites roar beyond the valley on the southern horizon.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 41 — The Sella and Sassolungo massifs loom mightily from across Villanders.

When searching for autumn hikes in South Tyrol, we came across Villanders and like our Stone Age ancestors were smitten by what the mountain offers. History lovers will find the area richly rewarding and nature addicts will be thrilled by the bounty of the landscape. Plus, the centuries-old chestnut trees dotting the mountain make this corner of Valle Isarco ideal for gourmet enthusiasts partaking in South Tyrol’s 5th season: Törggelen.

Villanders offers a multitude of hiking trails to choose from. We opted for a hike that would carry us over alpine meadows and through forests to the historic Dreikirchen (Three Churches) near Barbian (Barbiano). These three small wood-steepled churches date to the 12th and 15th centuries. They are located next to Gasthof Messnerhof, making this an idyllic adventure for those seeking an easy hike paired with delicious food and drink.

Through the Famous church alley

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 42

Our hike began in the old-world heart of Villanders. The early morning sun bathed the village’s patios and balconies in a warm yet crisp golden light that only October can kindle.

We followed a cobblestone road through a narrow alley known as Kirchgasse (church alley). It led us past the historic Steinbock Manor & Restaurant (Ansitz Steinbock), a castle once home to the Lords of Villanders. The castle sits in the village center wearing centuries of utter romantic ruin. So much so that it inspired the renowned Tyrolean painter, Franz Defregger, to portray the Steinbock residence in his masterpiece: “The Last Call to Arms”.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 43 — The tempting entrance to the restaurant at Ansitz Steinbock.

On the other end of the alley, two church bell towers gilded by the sun greeted us with spires piercing the blue sky. The towers belong to the Church of St. Stephan and the Church of St. Michael. The Church of St. Michael is the noticeably older of the two having first been documented in 1234. It possesses a remarkable cemetery unlike any other in South Tyrol. The tombs and wrought-iron crosses lie in such a way the dead always face the rising sun.

The parish church of St. Stephan was built from 1517 to 1521. Inside are striking works of art including the Madonna del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), a cherished baroque piece from 1700 that is carved from wood and holds 15 round oil paintings of the Madonna. Another valued oil painting in the church, also from the 1700s, depicts the stoning of St. Stephan. It was painted by Franz Sebald Unterberger, a famous artist from nearby Brixen.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 44 — The Church of St. Michael possesses one of the most beautiful cemeteries in South Tyrol.

However, the most unique work of art in St. Stephan is a stained glass window dating to the early 1500s. Next to the Madonna, it portrays the patron saints of miners, Daniel and Barbara. Beneath the saints are miners busy at work on the Villanderer Berg.

Villanders is home to the oldest mine in Europe. Silver and copper among other minerals were harvested from the mountain as far back as the 12th century.

Hiking the Dreikirchenweg

Behind the Church of St. Stephan, we ascended stone steps up a slope to the Three Churches Trail (Dreikirchenweg). Following the path, marked as no. 4 on signage, we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

We found their swooping canopies and massive trunks weathered by centuries of Alpine wind and sun especially enchanting. Sitting beneath their leafy cover with the sun’s rays sprinkling through was next to divine. The idyllic setting to read a book or simply study the peaks of the Dolomites far across the valley before nodding off into a gentle slumber.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 45

Moving on we encountered a pasture hidden by a forest. Within cows and South Tyrol’s celebrated Haflinger horses grazed together. Upon spotting us the horses galloped abruptly to our feet.

Whether they were anticipating a handout of apples or chestnuts, we did not know. But we were not about to share such delectable treats as they were not ours to give. Disappointed by such stingy hikers they quickly moved on.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 46

After an hour or so of hiking, the path descended into a hardwood forest. When we emerged from the shady cover we came to a paved road. A sign pointed us to continue along the pavement as it curved through the side valley until reaching another road snaking up through a stand of larches.

On the other side, we found the Dreikirchen perched in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom. The churches reside in the hamlet of Bad Dreikirchen, which sits almost due north of the village of Barbian.

Visiting the Three Churches

Mystery still shrouds the Three Churches. No one knows why the builders huddled them together. Nor who the builders were or why they chose such an isolated location.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 47 — The trail to the Dreikirchen is well marked from beginning to end.

The oldest, St. Gertrude, was built in 1237. Well-preserved Gothic frescoes and Baroque shrines adorn its interior — leading you to an altar where a statue of St. Gertrude stands between candles below a scene of the Crucifixion.

The second church, St. Nicholas, came shortly after the first was built while the third church, St. Magdalene was erected in 1470. Some believe the churches were established as shrines as they lie near pre-Roman healing springs. Perhaps medieval Christian worshipers sought to replace an ancient pagan sanctuary dedicated to the three goddesses of springs.

A Delicious Stop at Gasthof Messnerhof

The Three Churches are not left open, but you are welcome to retrieve the keys kept by the owners of the neighboring Gasthof Messnerhof. This rustic farm inn offers three rooms for guests interested in an agriturismo experience.

In addition, they have a restaurant available to hikers that offers traditional South Tyrolean fare whipped up from their organic farm. Virtually every dish on the menu is rooted in Gasthof Messnerhof’s backyard. From the beef to the speck to the vegetables, jams and juices.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 48

As we were making sure to leave room for a Törggelen feast later in the evening, we only ordered a plate of Kaiserschmarrn, a powder-sugared pastry dish served with homemade blackberry jam. We devoured this tasty treat with a couple of glasses of Kerner, one of our favorite white wines from South Tyrol.

Rambling Back to Villanders

After relaxing at Gasthof Messnerhof, we hopped back on the trail and began our return to Villanders. Like all hikes in South Tyrol, when you trod the same trail in the opposite direction you are rewarded with an entirely new perspective of the landscape and mountains.

While we were enamored with the massive chestnut trees on the way to the Dreikirchen, the Villanderer Berg’s apple trees stole the show on the return. The golden light of autumn made them shimmer as ornaments hung at Christmas.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 49

Whether simply admiring them dangling from a tree branch or letting one delight our mouths with its juiciness, South Tyrol’s apples never fail to make our hiking adventures more enjoyable. Even if the mountains suddenly vanished, we would still visit the region to savor the fruited orbs.

Where to Stay in Villanders

Villanders offers several accommodation options perched across the mountainside. If you like the idea of staying in the village itself, then we recommend Ansitz Steinbock. As mentioned earlier, this historic building is situated in the heart of Villanders. In addition to its wonderful gourmet restaurant tucked in centuries-old Stubem, the hotel features 12 luxury suites.

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 50 — Soaking in the views from Schweiggerhof’s balcony.

If you would prefer to stay somewhere that is more pastoral than medieval, then consider the Schweiggerhof. We loved this family-owned alpine farm. It is ideally located within walking distance of Villanders. Its holiday apartments offer sweeping views of the Dolomites and are tastefully designed with a rustic modern vibe.

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Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 51

Chestnuts, Chapels & Apples: An Autumn Adventure in Villanders 52

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches’ Mountain

Updated: February 13, 2023

One does not simply walk in the Dolomites… without knowing its spine-chilling folklore. In this post, we share a bit of South Tyrol’s witching past and how to visit the fabled sights of “Witches’ Mountain”.

Autumn in South Tyrol. The ravishing beauty of the season here leaves you breathless. But imagine for a moment that it is 900 years ago. The Dark Ages of Europe. When the death rattle of summer summoned dread — awakening one’s most primal fears.

A time when autumn’s vanishing light meant the rustling behind you was no longer leaves fleeting in the wind, but instead the stalking of something vile and wicked. A shadow snaking along the ground, no longer the lurch of a crooked ash, but a grim evil coveting your flesh and bone.

In the Dolomites of South Tyrol, such haunting mental conjurings were not without justification. This mountainous outpost of northern Italy is a land once shackled by superstition. Nightmares manifested into reality when the sun went down. And witchcraft was suspected to be widespread.

When you hike here, especially in the fall, it is easy to see how such deep-seated folkloric beliefs arose. The mountains seem to move with the mist. And when the peaks do finally reveal themselves, their storm-cursed faces growl like godforsaken gravestones of the unloved dead.

The Mountain Witches of Alpe di Siusi

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 54

A corner of the Dolomites with tales particularly ripe for October is Schlern Mountain. Schlern (also known as “Sciliar” in Italian) storms skyward from the yawning pastures of Alpe di Siusi – Europe’s largest Alpine prairie. The mountain manifests a jarring contrast against the sleepy landscape. A beautiful yet unsettling scene for any trekker.

All who hike here should know they follow in the footsteps of actual witches who once held gatherings on the hulking massif. According to local legend, witches long ago met every Thursday on Schlern where they performed black magic rituals and sacrifices in communion with the Devil. Carbonized remains found on the mountain give credence to the ghoulish practice.

The Schlern witches were also thought to spawn savage storms that would descend like packs of wolves from the mountain’s horned peaks.

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 55 — Goats gather beneath the Witches’ Mountain (also known as Schlern / Sciliar).

In fact, one legend tells of a bull grazing the rolling hills near the village of Seis, just below the mountain and discovering a bell in the earth. The villagers hung the mysterious bell in the bulbous spire of the ancient St. Valentin Chapel. When storms reigned down, the residents would fervently ring the bell to break the witches’ spell.

Hikers can visit a revered site of the witches known as the “Witches’ Benches” (Hexenbänke in German) located on Mount Bullaccia (Puflatsch). Bullaccia lies to the north of Schlern mountain offering jaw-dropping views of Alpe di Siusi and beyond.

The Witches’ Benches grip the imagination. They are contorted rock formations resembling places for sitting. Upon seeing them, you can find yourself believing they were once the sacred seats of a witches’ coven. Interestingly, it is not known if the stone thrones are natural formations or the work of ancient people. Mystery forever marks the mountainside.

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A Witch’s Curse

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 56

A story still told today in Alpe di Siusi is the tale of a local man named Hansel, who once shot a witch with his rifle. Hansel and his wife were simple farmers who lived in a mountain hut on the pasture. One day, while performing their daily chores an eerie silence fell on the land and a dreadfulness filled the air. They noticed a heathen’s shadow sweep across the sky.

Hansel grabbed his rifle, blessed it with Holy Water and fired at the witch. The bullet knocked the witch off her broom and she thundered to the ground. When Hansel approached the dead witch, the sight of her hideousness cursed him until his death.

Not all the legends of this area are rooted in fantastical fables. Sitting in the shadow of Schlern is Prösels Castle. Built more than 800 years ago, this South Tyrolean medieval stronghold holds a horrid history.

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Kate admiring the Prosels Castle — Prösels Castle was once the site of witch trials in South Tyrol.

In the 16th century, the Lord of the castle accused nine women of practicing witchcraft. He had them tortured until they confessed. Their crime? Stealing babies and riding upon brooms to Schlern where they feasted on the flesh of newborns with the Devil. After their trial, the Lord had them burnt at the stake.

Today, the castle is a feast for the eyes. A remarkable example of late Gothic architecture. Tourists can enjoy guided visits during the summer and over the Christmas holidays.

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Have Broom Will Travel

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 57

Getting to Alpe di Siusi is easy…especially if you have a broom. However, those opting for less devilish means of travel can take a cable car in the villages of Ortisei, Seis or Castelrotto. Our guide to hiking Alpe di Siusi provides step-by-step directions to reach the plateau.

If you want to experience South Tyrol’s witch folklore firsthand, we recommend departing from Castelrotto (also known as “Kastelruth” in German). From intricate witch wood carvings to themed shops and restaurants as well as the occasional stray black cat, witchiness abounds from its centuries-old cobblestones.

Hexenkeller Restaurant in Castelrotto — Restaurants such as Hexenkeller and Schlernhex in Castelrotto pay tribute to the enchanting folklore of the Dolomites.

The best time to hike all around Alpe di Siusi without snow is late May through September. Although the plateau is accessible year-round.

The witching hours of October make a tempting time to explore how land and legend weave together to create folklore that stirs one’s darkest fears. The cable cars still carry adventurers to the top through much of October if the weather allows it.

Another good time to seek out witches on Alpe di Siusi is on Walpurgis Night, which takes place every May 1st. According to locals, Walpurgis Night is when witches, wizards and other wicked spirits meet on Schlern to celebrate the “Witches Sabbath”.

The celebration is said to involve dancing, drinking and feasting until dawn, as well as a guest appearance by the Devil himself in the form of a goat.

For centuries, peasants took measures to protect their cattle on Walpurgis Night. They locked and sealed stable doors with three crosses. In addition, sprigs of ash, hawthorn, juniper, and elder, once sacred to the pagan gods, were used to guard against evil.

However, the night was not filled only with worry. The locals also saw it as a time of omen. Specifically, if it rained. An old saying goes: “On Walpurgis Night rain. Makes good crops of autumn grain.”

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How to Reach the Witches’ Benches

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 58

Once you are on the Alpe di Siusi, the Witches’ Benches are about a 1-2 hour hike depending on which cable car you choose.

The mighty Schlern massif forms an unforgettable backdrop for the walk. It menaces from every vantage point leaving no doubt as to why the mountain casts a shadow of mysticism over the alp.

From Castelrotto, take the Marizen Chairlift to the Marizen Alp. Then follow trail no. 9 through the forestland of Tiosels until you come to trail no. 8, which leads to the right up to Alpe di Siusi.

Spellbound in the Dolomites: Hiking the Witches' Mountain 59 — The Witches’ Chairs above Castelrotto make another hex-worthy trek through dense forests.

On Alpe di Siusi, trail no. 8 will intersect with trail no. 14. Follow it to the left and stay on it until reaching the Witches’ Benches.

On your trek back to Castelrotto, you may wish to stay on trail no. 8 descending further down the slope to another mysterious stone formation shrouded in legend: The Witches’ Chairs (Hexenstühle).

Two stones appear as literally chairs facing the valley. Like the Witches’ Benches, it is not known if these are man-made or oddities of nature.

To return to Castelrotto from the Witches’ Chairs, stay on trail no. 8 until you can take a left on trail no. 7 into town. The hike back is less than an hour.

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South Tyrol Casts a Spell

While we hope you don’t spot any witches soaring on brooms during your visit, you can count on the culture and natural beauty of South Tyrol to cast a spell that touches your soul.

It’s a spell you’ll undoubtedly want to share with others, but keep in mind, such bewitching autumn hexes are best left for some to discover on their own. All alone. In the dead of night. When churchyards yawn and hell itself breathes out contagion to this world…

Save the Witches’ Mountain

Guide to Witches' Mountain in the Dolomites

Promenading in Merano: Italy’s Most Enchanting Walk

Updated: December 20, 2022

Merano, Italy is a walker’s paradise. Discover why you will adore strolling the many scenic promenades winding through and around this historic jewel of South Tyrol.

Imagine meandering past dramatic Alpine scenery that tumbles into lush Mediterranean landscapes ripe with vineyards, orchards and palms — all held under the spell of mountain-hung castles, spiring steeples and the wooing Italian sun.

Sound entrancing? Welcome to the promenades of Merano (also known as Meran).

These soul-soothing walks are blessed from mountain peak to mountain peak with so much rich history and natural splendor you could wander them from dusk to dawn never tiring of their beauty. That’s why we return to them on nearly every visit to South Tyrol.

In this post, we show you how to enjoy Merano’s Passer, Summer, Gilf and Tappeiner Promenade (also known as Tappeinerweg) from beginning to end. As you’ll see, whether visiting in spring, summer or fall, Merano ravishes your senses no matter the season.

⇒ Start planning your escape to Merano: Access our travel resources & step-by-step hiking guides

Mountainside in Merano

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 60 — The Hotel Partaneshof is ideally situated for visiting Merano…and providing a front-row seat to stunning sunsets.

Merano famously basks in 300 days of sunshine a year, but a rainy mist greeted us on our first visit. October clouds hung stubbornly low in the afternoon sky.

However, this unexpected gloom did not dampen the sight of Hotel Partaneshof, our home for the next few days. Its inviting chalet-like character would have charmed us even in a storm.

Located just north of Merano’s medieval center, the hotel offered us an ample dose of seclusion with the town’s vibrancy just a short jaunt away. A perfect respite after mingling among the pulsating crowds of Venice and Verona earlier in the week.

We checked in and ordered a bottle of Weissburgunder from the Partaneshof cellar. After traveling a better part of the day, unwinding with a glass of vino sounded better than unpacking.

Our room came with a balcony bestowing a wide-open view of South Tyrol’s Texel Mountains. We lounged back in chairs and savored the panorama. The sun arrived right on cue. If there was a better place to sit and ponder how to spend the following day, we didn’t care. The Partaneshof was perfect.

Prior to arriving, we read about Merano’s Tappeiner Promenade (also called Tappeinerweg and Passeggiata Tappeiner) — a popular 3+ mile footpath offering sweeping views of Merano and beyond. The reviews touted it as a walk not to miss. By the pictures posted, we agreed. Besides, a long, carefree walk amid the Italian Alps was a natural remedy after a day hunkered in a car.

The next morning we woke up early anxious to discover Merano. We ate a delicious South Tyrolean breakfast comprising mountain-smoked speck, freshly baked bread and Alpine yogurt topped with local berries. While it was tempting to linger in the heavenly sunlight pouring over the terrace, the desire to explore kept us moving.

We were uncertain how to begin our walk on the Tappeiner Promenade so we spoke with Mrs. Ladurner at the front desk. Her family has operated the Partaneshof for 14 generations.

She ran her finger across a map showing the promenade running north above Merano along the face of the Küchelberg mountain to the village of Gratsch. Little did we know the path loomed several hundred feet up the mountainside hugging the hotel.

The map noted multiple places to enter the promenade, but Mrs. Ladurner encouraged us to hop on from the southern side of town. Taking this route would allow us to experience nearly all of Merano’s promenades. She suggested first roaming the Passer Promenade and then crossing the Passer River to the Summer Promenade. From there, connecting with the Gilf Promenade and finally Tappeiner.

⇒ BOOK A STAY AT HOTEL PARTANESHOF HERE

The Passer Promenade

The walk into Merano wound through a quiet tree-lined residential neighborhood. Within 15 minutes we met its historical center and crossed over Laubengasse (Via Portici), an arcaded street dotted with shops and quaint cafes.

Soon we were near the banks of the Passer River reveling along the Passer Promenade. This walkway is popular at all times of the year but is especially delightful in the winter when it bathes in sunlight.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 61 — The magnificent Evangelical Church of Christ sits along Merano’s Passer River.

The first architectural marvel we came across was the Evangelical Church of Christ. Built in 1883, its spire strikes the sky like a mountain peak all its own. But even more impressive than its steeple was the grove of giant birch trees parading in front of the church. Their grand canopy swooped over the promenade as if wishing to cradle passersby.

We continued on past processions of radiant palm trees, jubilant flower beds and bustling riverside cafes and gelato shops until encountering another masterpiece of Merano — the Kurhaus. The largest Art Nouveau building in the Alps, the Kurhaus was constructed in the 1800s initially as a venue for aristocratic mingling.

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Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 63

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 64

Today, it hosts concerts in addition to an array of cultural events from wine tastings to conventions. The ornate details and tall portico columns paint a vivid picture of what Merano must have been like when royals held sway over the land.

Just beyond the Kurhaus, we found two massive antique ivory light posts supported by an elaborate base with the South Tyrolean eagle emblazoned in shimmering tiles of crimson and gold. Together, the light posts mark the entrance to the Ponte della Posta, a bridge beautified with a wrought-iron balustrade showcasing sunlit fleur de lis and grapevine motifs.

We crossed the bridge, pausing to appreciate the roaring river from both sides. Once across, we spotted the Summer Promenade beginning to our left.

But before venturing down it, the austere face of the 15th-century Gothic Church of Santo Spirito caught our curiosity. Its bleak exterior amid the spectacle of Merano lured us in for a brief visit.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 65 — The 15th-century Church of Santo Spirito.

Inside, three dimly lit naves revealed masterful wood carvings and frescoes conceived more than 700 years ago. These historical treasures, lit by candle flames, hauntingly held our gaze. We always find such places possessing alluring energy — where past and present seemingly harmonize in stillness.

The church was first built in 1271 by the will of Count Mainardo II, a ruler often regarded as the true founder of Tyrol. A flooding Passer river destroyed it in 1419, but the church was rebuilt in 1483 in its present form.

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The Summer Promenade

Leaving the church we re-awoke to the liveliness of the morning and found Elisabeth Park where Merano’s Summer Promenade begins. The park is named after Empress Elisabeth of Austria also affectionately known as “Sissi”.

Empress Sissi Statue — A beauty for the ages. The statue of Sissi welcomes you at the start of the Summer Promenade.

Empress Elisabeth was the Princess Diana of her time; a beloved royal member in the 19th century with a rare independent spirit rivaled by even rarer natural beauty.

Sissi adored Merano. Her devotion to wellness and beauty helped establish the town as a destination for rejuvenation and relaxation. An early pioneer in maintaining a fit lifestyle and a youthful appearance she once remarked: “Children are the curse of a woman, for when they come, they drive away beauty, which is the best gift of the gods”.

Summer Promenade in Merano — Merano’s Summer Promenade is a shady haven opposite its historic center.

Embarking on long strolls around Merano was cherished by Sissi. Thus it’s rather fitting a remarkable marble statue of her graces a park along Italy’s most enchanting walk. You can often find fresh flowers placed in her hands, a lovely adornment we are certain magically appears.

While the Passer Promenade bathed us in warm sunlight the Summer Promenade’s soaring sequoia, cedar, pine and poplar trees blessed us with shade. We followed the promenade deeper into what appeared to be a forest found only in storybooks.

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Under the canopy, nature put on a bedazzling light show as the sun’s rays danced through the leaves. As we walked, the path gently sloped closer to the Passer. The river splashed rhythmically over rocks joining a choir of birds.

The Summer Promenade is not long and we were soon at the foot of a sweeping stone arched footbridge called the Ponte Romano (Steinerner Steg in German, which means Stony Plank). It’s the oldest bridge spanning the Passer.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 67 — The 400-year-old Ponte Romano Bridge leads you to the Gilf Promenade.

Antiquity rang as we moved on. We were treading upon historic ground…well actually stone. The Ponte Romano has ushered travelers safely over thundering waters for more than 400 years. By the looks of the hefty stonework, it will do so for at least 400 more.

We paused midway to again admire the river running underneath us. On the right side, a medieval spire rose from a rocky spur jutting above the river’s Gilf Gorge. Built in Roman times, the Zenoburg Castle served as a strategic fortification to control entry to the region. It later became one of the first residences of the Lords of Tyrol before falling into ruin.

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The castle has been partially restored and is now privately owned so is not open to visitors. But do not despair. With 800 castles in South Tyrol, finding another fortress to visit is far from difficult.

The Gilf Promenade

The Gilf Promenade begins after stepping off the bridge. Unlike the Passer and Summer promenades, much of the Gilf Promenade carves upward.

But before making the ascent, we took time to watch kayakers brave the icy waters below. Their deftness in negotiating the torrent of boulders bordered on mystifying.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 69 — The Gilf Promenade will make you think you wandered into the Garden of Eden.

Once on the cliff of the gorge, we stepped into another world. The abundance of greenery around us was like walking into an open-air conservatory.

The sun sprinkled in illuminating untold luxuriant subtropical plants, sweetly-scented shrubs and even exotic cacti. Looking around it was quite clear: the much-lauded Mediterranean side of South Tyrol sings loudest from the Gilf Promenade.

We paused on a bench off the path and glanced over the gorge to the other side of the river. Tangled tapestries of ivy foliage burned bright from the opposite cliffside. The amount of color kaleidoscoping all over was overwhelming.

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After soaking in the sight, we walked on encountering sculptures crafted from moss, ferns and other fauna. This intriguing artwork which included an eagle, woodpecker, snake and Atlas holding the world imparted a fun quirkiness to the trail. Further up, we entered the “Walk of Poets”. Verses from poets historically bound to South Tyrol in some way graced the walk’s benches.

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The Tappeiner Promenade

The Gilf Promenade levels out high above the Passer River where it runs into the Tappeiner Promenade. A path with a gentle grade, sun-loving wanderers come for its epic vistas of Merano and chain of snow-kissed mountains walling in the valley.

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The promenade was named in honor of its creator Dr. Franz Tappeiner. An advocate of fresh-air therapy for his patients, in 1891 he proposed creating a footpath above Merano. City officials enthusiastically embraced his idea and commissioned the trail’s development. Franz’s vision became reality on November 18, 1893, with the official opening of the “Tappeinerweg.” A statue of his bust now watches from the promenade’s summit.

In addition to the trail’s breathtaking panoramas, the Tappeiner Promenade is riddled with immaculately manicured flower gardens bedded amid stands of towering magnolias, cypresses, palmettos and other fantastical trees that look almost otherwordly.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 72 — Merano’s Powder Tower is well worth the climb.

The first historic sight we encountered on the Tappeinerweg was a crenelated medieval tower called the Pulverturm or Powder Tower. Once the keep of the Ortenstein Castle, the tower is now the only surviving remnant. In the 1800s, it held gun powder hence its name.

While it was fascinating to gaze at the stout tower from below, the unforgettable thrill came when we circled its stairs to the top. Through its battlements, commanding views of all of Merano’s majestic old town and natural wonders were ours to consume.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 73 — A sweeping panoramic view of Merano from the Tappeiner Promenade.

We continued along the promenade passing through groves of trees flanked to the right by the glacially-sheared walls of Küchelberg mountain. We then came to one of those iconic sights that forever steal a bit of your heart. Rising between palm trees like a bolt of sunlight stood the ornate steeple of St. Nicholas Church.

This Gothic beauty was admired at many points throughout our walk, but from here its bell tower was now at eye level. It seemed as if one could almost reach out and touch it. From this vantage point, we could discern all the details of its intricate clock and sundial.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 74 — The view of St. Nicholas from the Tappeinerweg is epic.

Many medieval church towers throughout Europe often look nearly identical to one another; almost as if they were somehow bricked and stoned into existence by the same mason. The Church of St. Nicholas truly stands apart. It has a gorgeous character all its own. Whoever designed and oversaw its construction in the 13th and 14th centuries, should have their own page in the annals of great architects.

After several snap-happy moments with our camera, we marched on passing a few boutique hotels, stately villas and restaurants tempting us with outdoor seating overlooking Merano. We soon came to a side path leading us into the Kräutergarten (herb garden).

On many occasions along the promenades of Merano, we encountered sweet scents ranging from roses to grapes to pine, but the Kräutergarten dazzled our nose as much as our eyes. Tucked just below the Tappeiner Promenade, the garden is flush with 200+ native and exotic herbs and plants weaved right into the landscape.

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We floated through inhaling rosemary, thyme and a plentitude of other pleasant aromas. The fragrant beds were calming; slowing our already leisurely pace on the promenade.

This was just fine with us. If there’s one place where you should linger longer in South Tyrol, it is on the Tappeinwerweg.

Eventually, the promenade began to curve north and we gradually lost sight of Merano’s medieval heart. Grapevines now surrounded us from above and below.

Unlike the vineyards that stiffly dot rolling hills in Tuscany, South Tyrolean vineyards ascend mountainsides in vast arcades. Trained on wood porticos, the foliage sweeps over the landscape as if painted on with a brush.

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Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 77

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 78

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 79 — Dine with a jaw-dropping view. The **Saxifraga Restaurant** is a lush wonder perched in the middle of the Tappeiner.

South Tyrol’s vine-rivered slopes beneath snowy summits make its vineyards one of the region’s most spectacular sights. Especially in autumn.

As the season flirts with frost, the vines radiate a riot of brilliant colors. The vineyards transform into leafy labyrinths gilded with ruby and gold. More so than any other time of year, they become a gift from Bacchus for hikers and wine enthusiasts alike.

⟹ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: How to Hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Paradise by Foot

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — The Brunnenburg Castle beckons walkers from a cliff north of the Tappeiner Promenade.

As we approached the end of the Tappeiner Promenade, South Tyrol’s most revered medieval stronghold, Tyrol Castle tempted from the crest of a distant ravine. Below it, the Brunnenburg Castle romanced us with its multi-turreted tower. Both castles looked as if a fairytale came to life on the mountainside.

But before adventuring to their gates, we came across an ivy-clad restaurant perched off the promenade’s edge. It looked straight out of the Shire. We could not resist. Besides we were thirsty.

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 80 — When you reach the end of the Tappeiner Trail, take a refreshing break at Cafe Unterweger.

We took a seat in Cafe Unterweger’s patio, which was hung like an ornate shelf on the face of the mountain. Below us, the bountiful Merano basin held our eyes. Here, we fell heart first into relaxation.

We looked over the map given to us at our hotel. Our legs made the decision for us. The castle trek could wait. Now that we were seated, the thought of indulging in another South Tyrolean meal held greater enchantment. And by the looks of the menu and view, we had found just the right place for it.

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Ready to be Enchanted?

The promenades of Merano are a gift for every age and skill level. The paths ascend easily with plenty of places to take a seat and rest.

We have made this walk multiple times, encountering everyone from hardcore runners to babies in strollers to the elderly walking their dogs. As you can tell in this post, our favorite time to stroll the promenades is in the fall, but rest assured you will find them lovely any time of year. If you are visiting in autumn, consider timing your trip during the Merano Grape Festival.

If you are ready for an enchanting escape to Merano, discover our South Tyrol Travel Resources. You’ll receive comprehensive guides on how to get the most out of your adventures in South Tyrol and the Dolomites.

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Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 81

Promenading in Merano: Italy's Most Enchanting Walk 82

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen

Updated: March 22, 2023

A hiker looking at Tre Cime di Lavaredo also known as Drei Zinnen and the Three Peaks of Lavaredo

Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) is a must-see mountain trio in the Dolomites. Discover the best way to hike Tre Cime to experience all the earth-defying splendor of Italy’s Three Peaks.

Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo feels like an awakening. The sight of the Three Peaks of Lavaredo — also referred to as Drei Zinnen, 3 Zinnen and 3 Cime di Lavaredo — is so abrupt it adrenalizes the eyes — concentrating your mind as if you just stepped before a sleeping dragon. They do not appear as mountains but as an eruption fossilized in a flash of earthen anger. You realize immediately that Tre Cime is not a place to be seen, but another world to be experienced.

After visiting Tre Cime di Lavaredo on multiple occasions, in good weather and bad, we’re confident this 2023 hiking guide gives you the most soul-etching way to enjoy the Three Peaks. You’ll discover how to:

Hike the Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop + avoid crowds
Find the best views of Tre Cime, Cadini di Misurina, Paternkofel & other iconic peaks
Visit the hidden Lakes of Piani (not to miss!)
Enjoy fascinating historic landmarks — including 220 million-year-old dinosaur footprints

In addition, we share details on how to get to Tre Cime di Lavaredo by car, foot and bus as well as where to stay near Drei Zinnen Nature Park. And if you want to overnight amid the Three Peaks, we share how to book a rifugio along the Tre Cime loop, as well as insights on camping at Tre Cime.

⇒ DOWNLOAD OUR STEP-BY-STEP TRE CIME HIKING GUIDE (WITH MAP)

An Overview of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 83

Hiking Time: Plan on 4-5 hours if you are hiking the full Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop (including time spent at mountain huts and exploring some of the hidden gems around the Three Peaks).

Hiking Difficulty: Avid mountain hikers will find the circuit relatively easy. Those less experienced will find some segments moderately difficult. The total elevation change you can expect is approximately 1,100 – 1,300 ft (340 – 400 m). The altitude for the hike averages 7,500 ft (2,300 m) so be sure to acclimate yourself to the high elevation prior to hiking if need be.

Trail Conditions: The majority of the Tre Cime loop is compact gravel. We recommend hiking poles if knees are an issue or if you are hiking after rainfall or on a drizzly day.

Distance: The hike around Tre Cime is 6+ miles (10 km). Plan on hiking an additional 2-3 miles if adding hikes to the Tre Cime caves or the Cadini di Misurina viewpoint.

Places to Eat: There are four mountain huts located on the trail. They are spread out nicely so you can enjoy a meal, drinks and dessert on your outing during hiking season.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 84

BOOK A PRIVATE GUIDED TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO HIKE

Experience Tre Cime di Lavaredo like a local!

⇒ BOOK NOW

Map of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike

The following Tre Cime trail map highlights the loop hike — officially known as the “Giro delle Tre Cime di Lavaredo” (Tour of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo) — along with the major sights and destinations. We cover each in detail so you have a clear idea of what to expect during your trek around the Three Peaks.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hiking Map — Good to Know: The arrows on our Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike map indicate to trek counterclockwise around the Three Peaks. Consider hiking clockwise if visiting during peak season.

How to Get to Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen

The Three Peaks tower over the border of South Tyrol and the Italian province of Belluno. They reside in the Drei Zinnen Nature Park of Val Pusteria / Pustertal in South Tyrol and belong to the mountain range known as the Sexten Dolomites. The closest major towns are Cortina d’Ampezzo, which is hosting the 2026 Winter Olympics with Milan, and Toblach (also known as Dobbiaco).

The most common starting point for hiking Drei Zinnen is the Rifugio Auronzo. You can reach this mountain hut by car or public shuttle bus via a scenic toll road called Strada Panoramica delle Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Our recommendation is to rent a car while visiting the Dolomites as it provides the greatest flexibility to explore. From our experience, we have found the best rental deals at Discover Cars.

Reaching Tre Cime di Lavaredo by Car / Motorbike / Campervan

Navigate to the Rifugio Auronzo via your phone or car’s GPS. Next to this mountain hut is a large parking area. Prior to driving up the mountain, you will pass through a toll booth where you will be required to pay an entrance fee. 2023 toll road prices are as follows: €30.00 per car, €20.00 per motorbike and €45.00 per campervan. This will give you access to the toll road until midnight. Plan to arrive before 9 a.m. as the Rifugio Auronzo parking area can fill up quickly. If you are visiting Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the summer, we recommend arriving even earlier. The toll road to the hut opens at 7 a.m.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Toll Road Parking Map

Reaching Tre Cime di Lavaredo by Bus

To help reduce the environmental impact of driving and avoid paying the entrance fee, hop on a shuttle bus from your nearest town or perhaps even from your hotel if it is offered. The round-trip cost to take the shuttle bus is €15.00 (Note: If you have a Sudtirol Holidaypass provided by your hotel there is no cost). You can check shuttle bus departure times and book a ticket on the Suedtirolmobil website.

Reaching Tre Cime di Lavaredo by Foot

Another option to avoid the entrance fee is to pay it with your feet. You can park at the Drei-Zinnen-Blick viewpoint located on the road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo and hike trail no. 102. You will reach the most popular Three Peaks mountain hut, Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler (Dreizinnenhütte), in 3+ hours.

History You Should Know Before Hiking Tre Cime

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 85 — **The Angel of the Fallen monument is a must-see when hiking Tre Cime.**

Tre Cime di Lavaredo is the official symbol of the Dolomites and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. Yet, amazingly, few of the tens of thousands who hike the Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop each year know they are trekking trails edged by the remnants of the first World War. Drei Zinnen, like many ranges in the Dolomites, straddled the battlefield between empires. Knowing a bit of this history before hiking here will give you a much greater appreciation for the sights you encounter.

On May 23, 1915, Italy declared war against Austria giving rise to the Alpine front, which cut 300 miles through the Alps from Switzerland to the Adriatic Sea. Hundreds of thousands of Italian “Alpini” and the Austrian “Kaiserjäger” soldiers fought on the rooftops of the world. It was the first time in world history that opposing armies clashed at altitudes of nearly 10,000 feet.

The Alpini and Kaiserjäger were specialized mountain units recruited from the Alps who could fight effectively in Alpine landscapes due to their physical endurance from their experience with mountaineering. These hardened soldiers could withstand long marches up the steep mountain terrain while hauling heavy packs, weapons and ammunition.

The Austrians and Italians militarized the mountains with a labyrinth of tunnels, bunkers and trenches still visible today. But the peaks and crags took no sides. The mountains were both protector and executioner.

A cannon pointing at the heart of Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the winter of 1917. — A cannon pointing at the heart of Tre Cime in the winter of 1917.

Each winter soldiers faced a common enemy they called “white death”. Blizzards, subzero temperatures, avalanches and falling rocks ravaged brave souls on the front line as much as bullets and bombs. In fact, after a brutal snowstorm in December of 1916, avalanches buried more than 10,000 Italian and Austrian troops over a two-day period.

When the war ended in November 1918, South Tyrol, once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, was ceded to Italy. Drei Zinnen, which translates to Three Merlons, then also became officially known as Tre Cime di Lavaredo. For this reason, we refer to the peaks by all of their common names in this hiking guide.

How to Hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen

Kate soaking in the view of Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Mount Paterno. — Hiking Tre Cime di Lavaredo bombards you with mountain scenery. The sheer number of peaks you encounter on the hike is overwhelming.

The two most famous ways to experience Drei Zinnen are by hiking the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Loop or the Lavaredo Saddle. Both are jaw-dropping. Determining which one to hike depends on how much time you want to spend exploring the Three Peaks and your fitness level.

Drei Zinnen Hiking Option #1: The Tre di Cime Lavaredo Loop

Hiking the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Loop will take 4-5 hours. Some guides indicate 3 hours, but breezing around the 6+ mile (10 km) trail at that speed is like climbing the Eiffel Tower and claiming you experienced Paris.

Many hiking guides also erroneously state hiking the circuit is easy. It is not. In our opinion, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Loop is moderately difficult unless you are accustomed to mountain hiking. The hike is not dangerous, but there are steep and long ascents in parts that may require taking an occasional break to catch your breath.

We stress these points because we have met many elderly hikers struggling to hike the loop. On more than one occasion, they told us they expected the hike to be much easier and not take so long. They were especially concerned as daylight was fading fast and they still had 1/3 of the route left to hike. Finding yourself unexpectedly exhausted or rushed is no way to experience the mountains.

Drei Zinnen Hiking Option #2: The Tre di Cime Lavaredo Saddle

The Tre di Cime Lavaredo Saddle hike allows you to experience most of the epic sights of the loop but is easier making it ideal for those concerned about time and energy. It begins and ends at the same starting point, however instead of sweeping you all the way across the northern faces of the Three Peaks, the hike leads you back on much of the same trail, which is relatively flat throughout, unlike the circuit.

By embarking on the Lavaredo Saddle hike you will ultimately trek more miles, but the less demanding trail means it can be hiked in 3 hours or less.

With all of this said, our recommendation is the Tre Cime di Lavaredo Circuit hike for anyone who is reasonably fit (including school-aged kids) and can afford to give most of their day to the Three Peaks. As long as you plan accordingly, the loop hike is one of the most rewarding adventures in all of South Tyrol.

Step-by-Step Hiking Directions

The following details how to hike both the Tre di Cime Lavaredo Circuit or the Lavaredo Saddle. These two hikes use the same route until reaching the Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler.

From Rifugio Auronzo to the Forcella Lavaredo Ridge

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 86

Begin your adventure by departing from the Rifugio Auronzo mountain hut on trail no. 101. This trail is an old military road and carries you north across the debris cone of the southern faces of the Three Peaks.

From left to right they are known as the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo / Westliche Zinne (Western Peak), Cima Grande di Lavaredo / Große Zinne (Big Peak) and Cima Piccola di Lavaredo / Kleine Zinne (Small Peak). The tallest, Cima Grande, has a height of 9,839 ft. (2,999 m).

CROWD AVOIDING TIP: If you are planning to hike the circuit and notice large crowds departing from Rifugio Auronzo on trail no. 101, you can opt to go clockwise around the Three Peaks by taking trail no. 105.

Gazing eastward you will see the Cadini Group (also known as Cadini di Misurina). This frantic chain of peaks, spires and crags stab the sky with such fury they seem intent on making the heavens crash to earth. For an epic sight, you will not forget, consider adding a visit to the famous Cadini di Misurina viewpoint as a part of your Tre Cime adventure. Our Cadini post provides everything you need to see the “Mountains of Mordor” up close.

Looking to the south you will peer into the Vallon di Lavaredo, a valley that unfurls into a even deeper valley called Marzon — where you can glimpse Lago di Auronzo on a clear day.

Dinosaur footprints on a boulder at Tre Cime di Lavaredo — Walking with dinosaurs. A boulder along the Tre Cime di Lavaredo bears the imprint of a two-legged meat eater.

After 30 minutes or so you will encounter a boulder resting at the trail’s edge as if placed there by the hands of fate. On its surface are two dinosaur footprints dating back some 220 million years. In 1991, Paolo Mietto, an Italian paleontologist, identified the prints as that of a therapod dinosaur, which was a bipedal carnivore from the Triassic period. Although weathered by the eons, you can still make out three toes with sharp claws.

Beyond the boulder, you will spot the Santa Maria Ausiliatrice chapel (also known as the Cappella degli Alpini). Built in 1928, this small church was founded by the Alpini in memory of the Bersaglieri regiments (sharpshooters) that fought in the war of which 32,000 were killed and 50,000 were wounded.

Walking around the church you will come across a monument honoring mountaineer Paul Grohmann. In 1869, he was the first person to climb the Cima Grande. Amazingly in the same year, he also became the first alpinist to conquer the equally imposing summits of Sassolungo in South Tyrol’s Val Gardena.

HIDDEN GEM: Near the church another trail branches to the right leading you downslope into a boulder-riddled pasture. If you take this, it will bring you to another beautiful sight honoring the soldiers who fought here. “The Angel of the Fallen” monument (pictured above in the history section) is the work of Ancona Vittorio Monelli, who was a sharpshooter during the war. Nearby the monument is also a somber memorial cross worth visiting. If you are lucky, you will also have a chance to admire horses grazing around the landmarks.

Hiking to the Angel of the Fallen monument on Drei Zinnen.

As you continue on trail no. 101 take a moment to look behind you. The soaring view of Mount Cristallo just beyond the Santa Maria Ausiliatrice chapel is reason enough to do the Tre Cime hike.

Shortly after the chapel, you will come to the second mountain hut of Drei Zinnen, Rifugio Lavaredo. It sits below the Forcella Lavaredo ridge, the first stunning viewpoint of the northern faces of the Three Peaks. By the way, “Forcella” means saddle or fork. If the hut is open, we suggest fueling up here with a beer or meal before venturing upslope to the Forcella Lavaredo. Not sure what to order? Discover the 10 must-try foods of South Tyrol.

From the hut’s terrace, you can soak in sweeping views of the Cadini Group and the Marmarole Group, which soars even further to the west and is home to Mount Antelao, also known as the “King of the Dolomites”. This thundering mountain storms up 10,700+ ft (3,200+ m) and is the second tallest in the Dolomites.

Rifugio Lavaredo also offers neck-bending views of the southern faces of the Three Peaks. From this vantage point, they look like the walls of a Stone Age castle or cathedral. Particularly fascinating is the “Spigolo Giallo”, which is a spear-like peak that is popular among climbers.

Cathedrals in the sky: Rifugio Lavaredo sits beneath the Three Peaks right before the Foreclla Lavaredo saddle.

At Rifugio Lavaredo, you have two options to reach the Forcella Lavaredo ridge. You can head to your left and negotiate a relatively steep mountain pass beneath the Cima Piccola peak directly to the ridge or you can stay straight and meander a wider trail that winds slowly up the mountainside. We have hiked both and they offer different perspectives that are equally fascinating.

HIDDEN GEM: If you take the meandering route, it will bring you around crumbling fortifications from World War I and above a small body of water called Laghi di Lavaredo. This “lake” is a far cry from the shimmering beauty of Lago di Braies, but is still an intriguing sight to behold on such a desolate mountainscape.

Upon reaching the Forcella Lavaredo ridge (8,000+ ft / 2,450+ m) you will be rewarded with a sight that is positively enthralling in its magnitude, intensity and stark beauty. Taking in the entirety of the Three Peaks at this close range is not so much a view, but a phenomenon.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 87

HIDDEN GEM: From the Forcella Ridge, we recommend walking toward the base of the Cima Piccola peak. There you will find a plaque mounted on a boulder commemorating the day when Pope John Paul II hiked Tre Cime to pray and admire the setting sun at the foot of the Three Peaks. Inscribed on it is the phrase “Do not be afraid”, the wisdom he shared most often during his papacy.

You will also find the remains of military fortifications here as the Forcella Ridge made for an ideal eagled-eye post to spot enemy movement. In fact, during the war, Italian troops positioned a giant spotlight on the Cime Grande peak to pinpoint patrols approaching the Three Peaks.

Across the Lavaredo Saddle to Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler (Dreizinnenhütte)

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 88 — Rifugio Locatelli -Innerkofler sits beneath Sasso di Sesto and Torre di Toblin, each held by an opposing army during the war. Notice the series of “caves” on the lower face of Sasso di Sesto.

Moving beyond the Forcella Lavaredo ridge stay on trail no. 101 and descend to a stretch known as the Lavaredo Saddle. Above the saddle looms Monte Paterno (Paternkofel). This 9,000+ ft. giant (2,700+ m) is a beautifully-shaped mountain that played a major role during the war. It is scarred with tunnels and caves that served as machine-gun nests and supply routes.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 89 — Austrian mountain guide, Sepp Innerkofler, was killed on Mount Paterno on July 4th, 1915.

During a nighttime attack in the summer of 1915, the famous mountaineer, Sepp Innerkofler, who was also an Austrian soldier, fell to his death while leading a patrol up Mount Paterno. Italian sharpshooters spotted the men and shot Innerkofler. It is said they were distraught upon discovering who they killed as many were local alpinists who admired the well-known mountain guide. Innerkofler’s body was laid to rest on the summit of Mount Paterno and eventually moved to a cemetery in Sexten after the war.

As you hike along the saddle, behind you the northern profile of Tre Cime will continue to fully unfold. Sprawling beneath the peaks is a massive ashen-grey debris cone and then the Lange Alm — a mountain pasture that looks as if it is the graveyard of the Alps.

The saddle will gradually begin to ascend and you will soon see the Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler (Dreizinnenhütte) mountain hut perched on a plateau known as the Forcella Toblin. The original hut that once stood here was operated by Sepp Innerkofler and his wife Maria. It was destroyed by artillery on the first day of the war in the Dolomites.

The Dreizinnenhütte was rebuilt after the war and named after Antonio Locatelli, a highly-decorated aviation ace celebrated by Italians for his bravery during World War I. He was killed in the massacre of Lechemti in Ethiopia in 1936.

The Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler offers a large outdoor seating area to rest and satisfy your appetite if open. Few mountain huts in the Dolomites boast a better view.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 90

CROWD AVOIDING TIP: Most hikers will cluster and linger in front of Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler before continuing the journey. To enjoy the Three Peaks panorama in silence, we recommend hiking just beyond the hut, passing by a small chapel dedicated to San Bernardo di Mentone, the patron saint of mountaineers, and plopping down on a plateau stretching to the north. From here, you will enjoy an unbeatable view of the Three Peaks and Mount Paterno in all their glory.

After admiring the peaks turn around and look up at Sasso di Sesto (Sextenstein). This mountain houses a series of caves that were actually Alpini bunkers during World War I. A somewhat steep trail leads up to them allowing you to capture the iconic image of the Three Peaks framed by stone.

The higher summit just beyond Sasso di Sesto is the Torre di Toblin (Toblinger Knoten). On these tower-like peaks, the Kaiserjäger were hunkered down giving you a sense of how scary thin the Alpine front was.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 91 — To capture the iconic Tre Cime cave photo, hike the trail leading to Sasso di Sesto located behind the Chisetta Alpina.

HIDDEN GEM: Once you are ready to peel your eyes away from Tre Cime, hike back to Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler. Behind the hut head downslope to view the Alpe dei Piani in the Altenstein Valley. This valley sits beneath the broad Schusterplatte mountain (Lastron dei Scarperi) and holds the mirror-still Lakes of Piani (Laghi dei Piani). Two are immediately visible, but if you trek down into the valley you will find the third lake beneath the Birkenkofel mountain (Crode dei Piani).

At this point, if you only intended to trek the Lavaredo Saddle hike, begin your journey back to Rifugio Auronzo by taking trail no. 101 again. The wonderful part about this return hike is that it allows you to see the mountains with a fresh perspective. The cloud cover at such elevations is constantly shifting. Odds are you will enjoy sights missed on the way to Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler.

Laghi dei Piani on Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike — Laghi dei Piani

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Over the Lange Alm to Malga Langalm

To continue the Tre Cime Circuit hike, follow signs for trail no. 102. This trail leads you down to a sprawling depression known as Pian Da Rin. From there, where will you then trek across the northern faces of Drei Zinnen.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 92

As you descend a series of switchbacks you will encounter otherworldly terrain undulating over a vast debris field. The chasm yawning into the abyss on your right side is the Rienztal (Val Rienza). If you were to hike to the valley floor you would meet the Rienz river, which snakes through the Dolomites to Dürrensee (Lago di Landro) and Toblacher See (Lago di Dobbiaco).

Eventually, you will come to a shoulder where the trail steepens significantly. Here, you will take trail no. 105 and make the grueling trek upward onto the Lange Alm. Fortunately, at the midway point, there is a log bench inviting a seat and rest if you need it.

When the trail levels out you will be face-to-face with the Three Peaks. At this range, you can study the geological character lines carved by epochs of time impossible to fathom.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo hike in the Dolomites, Italy — **Left: Torre dei Scarperi is a stunning mountain towering opposite the Three Peaks of Lavaredo.**

Looking to the north across the Riezntal you will see another soaring peak: Torre dei Scarperi (Schwabenalpenkopf). This Dolomites’ cast member appears as if it once was an Ancient Greek ruin. To its west is a Monte Rudo (Rautkofel), a blunt saw of peaks that curls to the south like a hook.

HIDDEN GEM: After crossing a creek fed by the Rienza springs, you will be on a slope called Col de Forcellina. From here, you can spot three small ponds offering the opportunity to capture Tre Cime reflecting on their surfaces.

If you didn’t relax with refreshments at any of the previous rifugios, the Malga Langalm mountain hut sits off the trail just minutes ahead. Of course, you can still stop here even if you did. Nothing in the hiking world comes close to matching the charm of South Tyrol’s mountainside taverns.

Make the Epic Return

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 93

Beyond the Malga Langalm, trail no. 105 gradually begins to curve around the Three Peaks. Now is a good time to take note of Tre Cime’s fourth and fifth peaks. Yes, the 3 Peaks actually have 5. Sasso di Landro and Torre Lavaredo anchor the eastern flank and are the runts of the bunch.

After traversing a ridge, the Tre Cime Circuit re-enters the debris cone and you will hike the scree slope until arriving at the southern side of Drei Zinnen. The trail on this stretch is narrower so if there are hikers approaching you from the south, skip soaking in the views of Monte Piana and Monte Piano, two mountain plateaus on your right that were fiercely contested by the Italians and Austrians during the war.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 94 — Staring into the heart of Mordor. The Cadini Peaks are a brooding force of nature.

The trail eventually leads you gradually up to the Forcella Col di Mezzo where it widens providing plenty of opportunities to let your jaw drop at the sight of the Cadini Group, Mount Cristallo and even Lago di Misurina if the clouds comply. The mountains will undoubtedly look different from when you began the hike 4-5 hours earlier.

The remainder of the hike from here is beneath the Sasso di Landro and Torre Lavaredo summits. Once you arrive back at Rifugio Auronzo we strongly advise stopping in to sip an adult beverage of your choice and at least one helping of apple strudel. You’ve earned both.

Additional Tre Cime di Lavaredo Viewpoints Not to Miss

Tre Cime di Lavaredo rising above Lake Antorno — Lago d’Antorno provides a jaw-dropping vista of Tre Cime’s southern faces.

Like most peaks in the Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo is a many-faced mountain. Its appearance dramatically changes depending on your vantage point. Our favorite view of the Three Peaks is at Lago d’ Antorno (shown above), which is a small alpine lake located on the toll road en route to Rifugio Auronzo. There is parking available right next to the lake.

For an alternative perspective of the southern faces of Tre Cime di Lavaredo, head to Lago di Misurina, a much larger alpine lake than Lago d’ Antorno. We recommend visiting Lago di Misurina after your hike. To get there, take a left on Strada Provinciale 49 di Misurina upon exiting the toll road and follow the road towards Grand Hotel Misurina. Within a mere two minutes, you’ll come across multiple parking lots lining the western shore of the lake.

Visiting the Vista Panoramica Tre Cime di Lavaredo in Val di Labdro.

Another wonderful viewpoint of Tre Cime di Lavaredo is in the valley of Val di Landro (Höhlensteintal). From the valley floor, you can study the famous north faces of Drei Zinnen with fresh eyes. You can easily reach the viewpoint near Lago di Landro by navigating to Vista Panoramica Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The viewpoint features a captivating “portal” that not only frames the mountains but also pays homage to the mountaineering legends who first triumphed over these peaks.

When to Hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo | Drei Zinnen

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 95 — In autumn, be prepared for all types of weather…and to wait for the Three Peaks to “awaken”.

When is the best time to hike Tre Cime di Lavaredo? The short answer is whenever you have the time and means. It is a hike every mountain lover should embark on once in their life. However; if you want to experience Dre Zinnen without dodging throngs of people on the trail avoid visiting during the summer months. Peak hiking season for Tre Cime is June – September.

Instead, plan to hike the Three Peaks from mid-September through mid-October. The only downside with this timeframe is that the mountain huts may begin closing in late September and you can encounter more unpredictable weather. Snow is unlikely, but definitely not out of the question in the Dolomites as you approach the heart of autumn. Pack accordingly (see below for what to bring).

In terms of the best time of day to hike the Three Peaks, we suggest hitting the trail before 9:00 a.m. It will be less busy and by the time you reach Rifugio Locatelli – Innerkofler you should be able to enjoy the sunlight washing over the faces of Cima Ovest, Cima Grande and Cima Piccola.

How to Look Up Tre Cime di Lavaredo Weather

Since we recommend hiking Tre Cime in the fall, it is helpful to know how to look up the weather forecast for the region. We have found Bergfex to be a reliable source for Tre Cime di Lavaredo weather. They are one of the few weather outlets to provide a multi-day forecast and expected conditions by the hour.

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What to Bring on Your Hike

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 96

Hiking Poles – Most of the Three Peaks hike takes place on a trail with compact gravel that can be loose and slick in parts. We suggest bringing hiking poles for those less sure on their feet or who have knee issues. If you do not own hiking poles, we recommend buying, lightweight, collapsible hiking poles that are easy to pack.

Hiking Boots (not shoes) – You can certainly hike Tre Cime in athletic shoes, but we always recommend wearing hiking boots for extra ankle support. Money-Saving Tip: If you need to purchase items for your trip, check out MountainSteals.com. They are an online outlet store selling top brands at up to 60% off. We shop here first before looking anywhere else.

Hat, Gloves & Sunglasses – If visiting Tre Cime in the spring or fall, gloves and a hat are a must. You can be warm one minute and the next chilled by a breeze swooping down from the summits.

Jacket & Layers – Make sure to have a decent jacket and toss an extra sweater into your backpack. We advise this for even hiking Tre Cime in the summer. Temps at these elevations can swing dramatically. Also, if the forecast calls for a chance of rain, it probably will. So it doesn’t hurt to have a compact rain poncho in your backpack as well.

Water & Snacks – We always fill up a couple of water bottles before hiking in South Tyrol. You will definitely want at least one water bottle hiking Drei Zinnen. Trail snacks are also wise as you may arrive at a hut not open or filled up with other hikers.

Cash – Not all huts accept cards so we always recommend having some cash on hand. If you plan to have a meal with beer or wine you can expect to spend €20-€25.00.

Patience – The Three Peaks sits among the heavens. At times the mountains will be shrouded in clouds, but if you are willing to wait they will eventually make an appearance, and hopefully a grand one at that.

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Where to Stay Near Tre Cime di Lavaredo

The Drei Zinnen Nature Park is 2+ hours east of Bolzano, the largest city in South Tyrol. You can visit Tre Cime di Lavaredo by doing a day trip from the city, but we highly recommend staying in the Dolomites.

As we highlighted earlier, the nearest mountain towns are Toblach (Dobaccio), Sexten (Sesto), Innichen (San Candido) and Cortina d’ Ampezzo. All of these are 30-40 minutes from the nature park. Any will make a great base for your Drei Zinnen hiking adventure.

During our Tre Cime hiking outings, we stayed at Nigglerhof, a lovely rustic family farm on a mountainside high above Toblach, as well as at a boutique eco-retreat in nearby Val di Casies (read about our getaway to Fontis Luxury Spa Lodge). Both destinations were ideal for exploring the Three Peaks and enjoying the perks of alpine wellness along with the historic charms of the surrounding villages.

⇒ EXPLORE MORE TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO ACCOMMODATIONS HERE

Staying at the Rifugios

If you wish to stay with Tre Cime di Lavaredo in your backyard, another option is to overnight at one of the three mountain huts offering lodging: Rifugio Auronzo, Rifugio Lavaredo and Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler. Keep in mind these are only open from early summer through early fall — typically opening the last week of June and closing the last week of September.

The rifugios can be crowded and tend to book up quickly so we recommend emailing them well in advance of your visit. Unfortunately, there is no online booking platform to check availability and make a reservation.

Camping at Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Wild camping is not officially allowed in Italy’s nature parks, which includes Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Nevertheless, many hikers still pitch a tent usually without encountering any issues as long as they are respectful, and discreet and follow these tips.

Those camping with a campervan, caravan or motorhome can pay an additional fee to park overnight in a designated lot by Rifugio Auronzo. The cost ranges from €5.00 – €60.00 depending on vehicle size.

If you are interested in exploring official campground options near Tre Cime, see our post detailing the best places for camping in the Dolomites. We highlight a campground on Lago di Dobbiaco and in Sexten that are popular choices for those wanting to save money on accommodations or simply sleep under the stars.

Visiting Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Winter

The toll road to Rifugio Auronzo is closed during the winter months, but that does not mean enjoying the wonder of Tre Cime di Lavaredo is off-limits. The best and safest way to experience the Three Peaks in the winter is on snowshoes and with a guide. Guides will know how to spot and avoid dangerous conditions that may not be obvious to you.

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 97

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A fairytale hike where silence reigns supreme.

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What Else to See & Do Near Tre Cime

Visit Lago di Braies: Braies is perhaps the most beautiful mountain lake in the world and it is only a 50-minute drive from Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Do not miss the chance to walk its shores.

Visit Brunico: If you want to visit one of South Tyrol’s picturesque mountain towns, as well as discover more about the impact of World War I on the region, add a side trip to Brunico. There is a heart-stirring war cemetery in a forest above the town that is unlike any other in the world.

Visit Val di Funes: Val di Funes is a soulful South Tyrolean valley with astounding views of the Dolomites. Consider adding a visit here after hiking around Lago di Braies.

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Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 98

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 99

Trekking Tre Cime di Lavaredo: The Ultimate Guide to Drei Zinnen 100

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob

Updated: December 2, 2022

The Church of St. Jakob offers one of the most awe-inspiring vistas in the Dolomites. Discover how to hike to the oldest and highest church in Val Gardena.

It is rather fitting that a church reachable by foot alone is consecrated to the patron saint of pilgrims and hikers. The Church of St. Jakob (also known as St. Jacob, Chiesa di San Giacoma and Dlieja da Sacun in Ladin) shines as a lantern hung above the steep evergreen slopes of Val Gardena.

The oldest and highest church in the valley, the Church of St. Jakob is a late-Gothic style beauty brandishing a bell tower emblazoned with brilliant white stone. It sits at an elevation of more than 5,000 ft. — clearly once a guiding light to weary pilgrims from afar.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 101 — A trail signpost showing the three languages spoken in Val Gardena: Ladin, German and Italian.

The church was built along an ancient road called “Troi Paian” or “Pagan’s Pathway”. This trade route dates to the Bronze Age and one time connected Venetia with South Tyrol’s Valle Isarco.

The exact date of the church’s founding is as knowable as a mountain lost in the clouds. Some historians believe it dates to the year 1181 due to a carving in the bell tower. However, the first mention of the Church of St. Jakob in an official document was in 1283.

Yet according to local legend, the church was built by the Counts of Stetteneck, who reigned in the late 13th century. The legend itself is quite entertaining.

Legend of the Golden Cup

Count Gebhard von Stetteneck of Val Gardena once went with his son Jakob (not the actual Saint Jakob) in search of a relative who allegedly lived with another noble in Santiago de Compostela, a city in northwestern Spain. This Spanish Count it is said had a beautiful daughter who immediately fell in love with the younger Count of Val Gardena. Jakob, however, took no notice of her affection much to the daughter’s dismay.

In revenge for the young Count’s disinterest in her, she secretly hid her father’s golden cup in Jakob’s luggage prior to his travel back to Val Gardena. When her father noticed the precious cup missing the following day he immediately sent his servants after Gebhard and Jakob at the urging of his daughter.

Upon catching up with the counts, the servants searched Jakob’s luggage and indeed found the missing cup. The servants demanded Jakob return to face their lord.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 102 — The St. Jakob Church clearly stands out against the forested slopes beneath Seceda. A sight medieval pilgrims could easily spot from afar.

Jakob well aware of his innocence did not hesitate to go with the servants. He told his father: “You know that I did not steal the cup, so help me God; go home, I will come soon.”

But when Jakob never returned, Gebhard became concerned and went back to the city of the Spanish count. How terrified he was when he saw his son hanging from the gallows in front of the city walls! The count had sentenced Jakob to death for the alleged theft of the cup.

When Gebhard came closer to the gallows, he saw his son was not dead at all, but alive! He rushed to the city judge demanding permission to take Jakob off the gallows. But the judge, who had just sat down at a table with his wife to enjoy a roasted chicken, said mockingly: “Your son is a thief and belongs on the gallows and, moreover, is already as dead as this chicken here in my pan!”

But then the roasted chicken rose and suddenly flew away! This miracle prompted the judge to rush to the gallows where he found the young Count of Val Gardena alive. He immediately proclaimed Jakob’s innocence allowing him to be lowered and returned to an overjoyed Gebhard.

In gratitude for this wonderful salvation, the Count, upon returning to Val Gardena, immediately set out to build the Church of St. Jakob with his son. It soon became a much-visited place of pilgrimage. So much so the church grew in great wealth and the people of Val Gardena used to say: “If you want to have a rich husband or wife, you must go to St. Jakob’s Church!”

The Artwork of St. Jakob

Interior of St. Jakob Church in Ortisei — The interior of St. Jakob is a feast for the eyes.

Despite its relatively small stature, the Church of St. Jakob offers a number of wonders worth appreciating. First and foremost is its famous mountainside setting.

If you arrive at the church by descending the trail from Seceda, you will be rewarded with the sight of the church’s spire seemingly soaring over the crags of Mt. Sassolungo. A bench rests on the hilltop right above the church.

We recommend taking a seat to let the jaw-dropping scene steep your soul. And if you are single this is a good perch to spot any wealthy church patrons worth courting. May the legend of the golden cup be forever in your favor!

While the exterior of St. Jakob is late-Gothic, its interior showcases a variety of architectural stylings from Romanesque to Baroque. On its walls, you can admire, as well as attempt to decipher, several frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries, some hopelessly faded and others remarkably vivid.

Passing through the church’s nave you will come to a fresco near the pulpit. This artwork depicts the legend of St. Jakob, who is perhaps better known as St. James the Great, one of the first apostles of Jesus.

Statues at St. Jakob Church in Ortisei, South Tyrol

His remains are reportedly buried beneath the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain — giving some credence to the Counts of Stetteneck being the founders of the church per the above legend. It’s interesting to note that the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is one of only three churches in the world built over the tomb of an apostle of Jesus, the other two being St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City and St. Thomas Cathedral Basilica in India.

St. Jakob was also the first apostle to be martyred. In 44 A.D. Herod Agrippa, king of Judea, ordered him to be beheaded.

Also, next to the pulpit are oil paintings of the Virgin Mary from the 18th century. As you walk into the church’s sanctuary, you will pass beneath an arch filled with frescoes of five female saints including St. Mary Magdelene and St. Catherine of Alexandria.

The altar is classic Baroque. It beams with sky-blue columns surrounded by gold-gilded woodcarvings from Val Gardena. The altar oil painting depicts a unique nativity scene with a knight and an infant Jesus holding a globus cruciger (an orb surmounted by a cross) — symbolizing dominion over the world.

The St. Jakob Cemetery

Outside the church, enclosed by a stone wall, is a small cemetery. You should walk through this graveyard to admire the great care South Tyroleans take to beautify and honor those at rest.

A weathered yet gorgeous wood-carved wayside shrine greets you near the entrance. Throughout the cemetery, you will see additional woodcarvings and wrought iron crucifixes exemplifying the expert craftsmanship of the locals.

Madonna Shrine at St. Jakob Church in Ortisei

Also worth admiring are the late Gothic frescoes from 1450 on the south-facing wall of the church. They still possess remarkable color and detail. The most celebrated depicts St. Christopher with Jesus as a child perched on his shoulder.

Before departing the cemetery, duck into a tiny stone shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. On the wall to the left, you will see a painting of a fallen soldier along with a list of names, presumably of residents who gave their lives in battle.

How to Visit St. Jakob

We think the most rewarding way to visit the Church of St. Jakob is to hike down from the ridgeline of Seceda through the forest of Mt. Balest. See our guide to hiking Seceda for step-by-step directions.

If that sounds too challenging or time-consuming you can also reach the church by walking the Legend of St. Jakob Trail. This forested trail begins behind the parish church of S. Cristina — a charming town less than 20 minutes from Ortisei.

Lantern of Val Gardena: Hiking to the Church of St. Jakob 103 — St. Jakob Church is the heart of the Segra Sacun festival in October.

Plan on 2+ hours to walk to the church and back. If you are in South Tyrol in early October, you may want to consider timing your visit with a village festival called “Segra Sacun”.

We attended the Segra Sacun festival during our last visit to St. Jakob and had the opportunity to join an outdoor mass in front of the church. This traditional service was followed by a fun celebration offering local specialties, beer and wine. The following day the festival continues in the center of Ortisei and runs late into the evening.

Hiking Sassolungo: How to Trek the Mightiest Alps in the Dolomites

Updated: February 12, 2023

Sassolungo (Langkofel) and its brotherhood of peaks storm into the sky with such sudden fury they command exploration. Here’s how to hike around this soaring empire of stone in the heart of the Dolomites.

What makes the Dolomites so enthralling? For us, it’s how they seemingly tower from Earth as if on pedestals.

They loom like monolithic works of art defying the lull of sleepy meadows and forested glens. A frantic spectacle of crags, spires and precipices malleted into mountain form by an ancient god gone insane.

This unique posturing of the Dolomites allows one to admire many of its mountains from practically every angle. And that is exactly what makes the Sassolungo Group a favorite to explore — you can witness all the wild faces of this massif in a single day.

About the Sassolungo Group

Before diving into how to hike around the Sassolungo Group allow us to share some background information so you can fully appreciate its lofty stature among the mountains of South Tyrol, Italy.

The Sassolungo Group is a chain of five major mountains with a footprint of more than 17 miles all around. Its most prominent peaks are Mt. Sassolungo and Mt. Sasso Piatto.

The tallest summit, Mt. Sassolungo, also commonly known as Langkofel, which means “Long Stone” in German, soars to a height of more than 10,000 feet (3,181 m). It anchors the eastern end of the massif and is the perennial crown of Val Gardena — impossible to miss roaring over the tree tops when driving through the valley.

View of Sassolungo in Val Gardena — Mt. Sassolungo, on the left, rules over all the summits making up the massif.

Mt. Sasso Piatto (Plattkofel i.e. “Flat Stone”) anchors the western end at a height of nearly 10,000 feet (2,956 m). This mountain appears as if a colossal sickle swept off half its face. It is the first summit you will see when hiking across the Alpe di Siusi from the north.

The major peak rising after Mt. Sassolungo is the Grohmannspitze, also known as Punta Grohmann and Mt. Sasso Levante. Named after Paul Grohmann, an alpinist who in 1869 was the first to conquer the summits of Sassolungo, the Grohmannspitze is a treacherous mass of jags teetering over 10,000 feet.

The Grohmannspitze is followed by a summit called Innerkofler Turm (Torre Innerkofler), which rises before the iconic bear claw peak of Sassolungo known as Zahnkofel (Il Dente).

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How to Hike Sassolungo

Hiking the Sassolungo Group can be achieved in multiple ways depending on your schedule, fitness level and where you choose to begin the hike. We cover two half-day hikes that you can turn into a really full day (7-8 hours) circling the entire massif if you have the time…and energy.

Both of these hikes overwhelm you with a tidal wave of mountain scenery. If you only have time to do one, pick the Sassolungo hike that appeals to you most based on the gallery of photos in this post.

By the way, the first hike we cover here is a tad easier on the legs so stick with that one if tiring is a major consideration. Each trail begins at the Passo Sella (Sellajoch) parking lot, which is a 25-minute drive from Ortisei (St. Ulrich), the main town of Val Gardena, or just over an hour if you are arriving from Bolzano.

Hike #1: Passo Sella to Mt. Sassolungo

Hiking Sassolungo: How to Trek the Mightiest Alps in the Dolomites 104 — The “City of Stone” is a massive boulder field at the foot of Sassolungo. In the background, rises the towers of Sella.

This Sassolungo hike winds you across the monstrous southwestern face of Mt. Sassolungo to its eastern profile. Along the trail, you also gaze up in awe at the Grohmannspitze and the Fünffingerspitze (Punta Cinquedita), the lowest peak comprising the Sassolungo massif.

Additionally, this hike exposes you to striking vistas of other ranges in the Dolomites. These include the Odle Group where you can see the fangs of Seceda scraping the sky to the east, as well as the Sella Group to the south, which hunkers the horizon like a prehistoric stone fortress.

However, what we think makes this hike particularly fascinating is the journey through the “City of Stone” (Steiner Stadt / Città dei Sassi). A vast wilderness of boulders, pines and flora, the City of Stone is the Dolomites in ruins.

Some 20,000 years ago, seismic forces shook Mt. Sassolungo’s broad shoulders sending boulders thundering to the earth. They settled into a maze-like formation creating a surreal landscape that is thrilling to explore and photograph.

To embark on the hike, walk past the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort next to the parking lot. A wide trail will lead to the one that branches off into the City of Stone. Look for Trail No. 526 marker.

Depending on how much you want to explore, you could spend an hour or two wandering the City of Stone. But if you choose to hike straight through, do not leave the “city” without at least hopping on a few of the boulders. The grand views of the Sella Group framed by the megalithic rubble are jaw-dropping.

As you continue heading east on Trail No. 526, you will eventually leave the City of Stone and ascend a small ridge with a wayside shrine that overlooks the Sella Group. Here, a trail dives to the south, but stay on Trail No. 526 and venture downhill into what is known as the Gran Paradiso.

This wide-open stretch allows you to really appreciate the immensity of Mt. Sassolungo. At the end of the Gran Paradiso, you will enter a patch of trees and find the Rifugio Emilio Comici. A popular mountainside restaurant, the Comici hut sits on the southeastern edge of Mt. Sassolungo offering clear panoramas of the Sella Group and Seceda.

Dog in the Dolomites — The Sassolungo-Sassiopattio loop gives sweeping views of the Sella Group as well as this beautiful girl if you're lucky!

Unfortunately, it was closed when we arrived, but we did find a sweet spot to dine al fresco. Hidden on the slope above the restaurant, is a picnic table where you can relax like you are the king of the mountain.

Beyond Rifugio Emilio Comici, look for Trail No. 526A. This trail cuts across the eastern wall of Mt. Sassolungo. It runs tighter to the face of the mountain thus the trail steepens in parts with swaths of shale and rubble. Extra attention is wise on this stretch. We hiked on this side of Mt. Sassolungo for another 30 minutes before turning around due to fading daylight.

If you are on this end of the mountain in the afternoon, do not count on sunlight. However, the hike back to the Sella Passo parking late in the day will reward you with a blizzard of color as the setting sun bounces off the mountain peaks.

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Hike #2: Passo Sella to Mt. Sasso Piatto

This hike leads you from Passo Sella across the southern and western faces of the Sassolungo Group to the foot of Mt. Sasso Piatto. The other Sassolungo mountains you will encounter up close on this stretch include Zahnkofel, Innerkofler Turm and Grohmannspitze.

Beyond Sassolungo, this hike also offers sweeping views of the “Queen of the Dolomites” — Marmolada. Soaring to a height of 10,968 feet (3,342 m), Marmolada is the highest mountain in the Dolomites. Its north face is mantled by a massive glacier that beams like a beacon in the Italian sun.

In addition to Marmolada, a garland of other peaks can be admired during this hike including Col Rodella of Val di Fassa, the sawtooth spires of the Rosengarten and the great rhino horn of Mt. Schlern towering past the vast expanse of the Alpe di Siusi. On a clear day, you can even spy the snow-capped Ötztal Alps on the far northern horizon.

Begin the hike by heading west from the parking lot towards the Passo Sella Dolomiti Mountain Resort. A variety of trails branch off by the resort. Take Trail No. 557. This is the Friedrich August Weg, named after a Saxon king who loved rambling hikes.

After an initial steep ascent, you will come to the charming Rifugio Friedrich August. If you need a break now, by all means, take it here. Otherwise, continue on Trail No. 557 and plan to visit the hut on your return.

From the Friedrich August Rifugio the views become ever grander. The remainder of the hike winds along the foot of Sassolungo. Much of the trail is level but you will encounter short climbs and descents throughout.

After 2 hours you will reach the Rifugio Sasso Piatto (Plattkofelhutte), which sits at the base of the flat slope of Mt. Sasso Piatto. Here, we recommend resting with a hearty meal and drink before making the trek back to the Passo Sella parking lot.

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When to Hike Sassolungo

If you want to share Sassolungo with throngs of other hikers, plan your visit during the summer. However, if you are like us and want the mountains all your own, the best time to hike Sassolungo is late May / early June and early October.

The only potential downside of going early or late in the traditional hiking season of the Dolomites is that not all of the nine mountain huts dotting Sassolungo may be open. The same goes for the lift stations that operate around the mountain if you are hoping for a ride up the slopes.

In terms of the best time of day to hike Sassolungo, you cannot go wrong in the morning or afternoon if you are embarking on one of the half-day hikes. The sunrises and sunsets around Sassolungo are radiant treasures you remember long after you are gone.

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Where to Stay to Hike Sassolungo

The **Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof** is ideally located for hiking Sassolungo.

If you are going to conquer the Sassolungo Group, why not stay where you have a balcony view of its dramatic beauty? We picked the charming Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof in Ortisei for this reason alone.

Vin in the Dolomites — An unforgettable balcony view.

In addition to being within easy reach of Sassolungo, the hotel is conveniently located for embarking on hikes to Seceda and the Alpe di Siusi, as well as exploring the remarkable woodcarving shops of Val Gardena.

Furthermore, you will fall in love with the hotel’s pool and spa area after a long day of hiking. It’s an idyllic Alpine setting to rest and recharge your legs for another adventure the following day.

⇒ BOOK HOTEL ANSITZ JAKOBERHOF HERE

⇒ EXPLORE MORE HOTEL OPTIONS NEAR SASSOLUNGO HERE

Tips & Considerations for Hiking Sassolungo

Want a full-day adventure? Consider hiking the Sassolungo Circuit. The best views come by heading clockwise around the massif. To circle Sassolungo, take Trail No. 527 from the August Friedrich Weg mentioned in hike #2 to Trail No. 525, which connects Trail No. 526A to Trail No. 526 both mentioned in hike #1.
The parking lot is free in the “off season”, but expect to pay if hiking Sassolungo in the summer.
Instead of driving to the Passo Sella, consider taking a public bus. The Val Gardena Mobil Card allows free use of buses in the region. Bus No. 471 will pick you up in Ortisei or Selva and drop you off right by the trailheads.
Neither of the hikes in this post is overly difficult or dangerous, but those less sure on their feet should bring hiking poles for extra support.
Pack water and snacks for your hike. A convenient place to pick up these items is the Despar grocery store in downtown Selva (Wolkenstein).
When hiking the August Friedrich Weg in the afternoon you will have plenty of sun exposure. Pack sunscreen lotion and sunglasses.
It can be chilly at times during late spring and early fall so be sure to wear a light jacket and pack gloves and a hat. For tips on hiking gear and clothing to wear while hiking Sassolungo, access the guide in our South Tyrol Travel Resources.
As always, pay attention to the day’s forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.
Do not kiss the marmots no matter how much they tempt you.
If you are hiking Sassolungo during the summer, consider hopping the cable car scaling the Sassolungo wind gap, which is sandwiched between the peaks of Mt. Sassolungo and Fünffingerspitze. At the top, you can take an eagle-eye seat at the Rifugio Toni Demetz. The cable car station is near the Passo Sella parking lot with a giant “Sassolungo” sign on its roof.
If you plan to use the lifts while in Val Gardena, save yourself money by purchasing the Gardena Card.