South Tyrol Outdoor Adventure

Sacred Stone & Sky: Hiking to the Church of St. George

The Church of St. George in South Tyrol is a historic icon of the Tyrolean Alps. Discover how to trek to this hallowed ground dating to the crusades.

SNOW-BORN WATER ripples wildly beneath our feet as we ramble under a dense forest canopy. Sunlight teases us through the leaves, but what lies ahead we cannot say. The trail bending beyond the woods’ end blazes like a blinding light at the end of a tunnel.

When the trees finally part the vast beauty of this corner of South Tyrol becomes apparent. The eastern faces of the Ötztal Alps paint us a postcard-perfect Alpine scene that is among the most breathtaking offered by the region’s Waalweg paths.

Gazing into South Tyrol’s Val Passira (Passeier Valley), our jaws drop at the sight of the Mutspitze (Monte Muta) rising 7,500+ ft. into the quintessential mountain peak. Beyond Mutspitze, soars the even higher Rötl mountain and the snowy summits of Spronser Rötelspitzer (Cima Rosa), which hold the highest Alpine lakes in South Tyrol.

Deeper into those distant peaks our imaginations wander to Similaun mountain teetering on the Austrian border. This nearly 12,000 ft. giant was the icy tombstone to one of mankind’s greatest historical discoveries: the 5,300-year-old mummified body of Ötzi the Iceman.

As we walk, the soulful sound of cuckoo birds cooing and cowbells clanging mingle with the steady splash of water. Somewhere ahead we also hear a waterfall raging into a gorge.

We look on in silence — taking our time to wholly absorb the mountainous wonders. Then move further along the path into the heart of an apple orchard lushing the mountainside.

Mutspitze mountain is a soaring spectacle that will stop you in your tracks.

Soon we pass through a wind-swept meadow spangled with gold petals steeping in the sun. We stroll by sleepy farms and find ourselves once again tunneling into a shady grove of trees.

As we walk, the soulful sound of cuckoo birds cooing and cowbells clanging mingle with the steady splash of water. Somewhere ahead we also hear a waterfall raging into a gorge.

We laugh out loud wondering what other surprises this heavenly trail will bring before coming to the historic Church of St. George.

Top: When a Waalweg needs a helping hand a hollowed out log will do.

Our journey eventually winds us through a vineyard where we duck slightly beneath an overhang of vines. We pause to admire the craftwork of a wayside shrine — one of many encountered during our hike — and then spot a sign indicating the church is just ahead.

Within the Church of St. George

The Church of St. George landed on our bucket list the second we came across it researching sights in South Tyrol. Just as the Sabiona Monastery captivated us at first glance, this peculiar circular Alpine church did the same. Its saintly pose atop a vine-riddled hill with a ravishing mountain backdrop never faded from our wanderlust dreams.

The church is located in the tiny hamlet of St. George which sits on the slope of Mt. Ifinger (Picco Ivigna) — an 8,400+ ft. behemoth of the Sarntal Alps. Given its Romanesque contours, the Church of St. George is thought to have been built in the early 1200s.

The stone steeple of the Church of St. George pierces the sky high above Schenna.

It may have in fact been a temporary place of worship for crusading armies marching south to fight in the Holy Land. Depictions through the centuries celebrate St. George as a defender of Christ similar to how medieval crusaders saw themselves.

We walk around the church exterior then step inside. A sweeping theater of frescoes greets us. They date to around 1400 A.D. and vividly depict the life and death of St. George. The walls speak to us in brush strokes and we come to learn how this former Roman soldier became a martyr.

Intricately carved and beaming with color, it tells a much happier tale: St. George, the dragon slayer.

In 303 A.D. after George refused to denounce his Christian faith, the Roman emperor Diocletian sentenced him to death. How did he die? Not well.

Before his execution, St. George gave his wealth to the poor. Then he endured utterly brutal torture at the hands of the Romans.

The 15th-century frescoes of St. George Church tell a troubling tale.

These fresco scenes make us cringe. They show the saint crammed in a barrel pierced with blazing hot nails, as well as lacerated by a crude wheel of swords. According to legend, George required resuscitation three times during the torture. Still, he did not recant his beliefs before being beheaded.

This trail unfurls an enchanting medley of South Tyrolean landscapes — from Alpine to Mediterranean and everything in between.

After studying the depictions, we approach a Gothic wooden triptych set between church windows. Intricately carved and beaming with color, it tells a much happier tale: St. George, the dragon slayer. This work of art we learn belongs to Hans Schnatterpeck — a famous 15th-century artist of Merano.

We leave the church stepping back into the bountiful South Tyrolean sun. Our visit was brief, but the dramatic history, detailed beauty and throng of sights encountered make the trek to the Church of St. George an experience we will not soon forget.

How to Reach the Church of St. George

The soul-mending melody of moving water makes waalwegs among the most relaxing walks in South Tyrol.

The best way to visit the Church of St. George while also spying it from a lofty distance is to hike the Schenner Waalweg. If you are not familiar with the word “Waalweg”, these are centuries-old path-lined irrigation channels carved into South Tyrol’s mountainsides.

Follow the well-placed signposts to reach the Schenner Waalweg.

The Schenner Waalweg runs above the village of Schenna (Scena) near Merano. As you can see, this trail unfurls an enchanting medley of South Tyrolean landscapes — from Alpine to Mediterranean and everything in between.

To reach the trail, we suggest starting from the village of Verdins which is 5 minutes north of Schenna. A public parking lot is off the main road if you arrive by car. You can also take a public bus to Verdins if you prefer.

From the town center follow the signposts. They will lead you uphill for a bit before steering you onto the Schenner Waalweg. Once on the Waalweg, head south towards Schenna. Along the way, you will pass by mountainside taverns such as the Köstenthalerhof where you can savor a hearty meal or simply soak in the panoramic views over a frosty pint.

The neo-Gothic Mausoleum of Schenna is an architectural marvel not to miss.

The hike to the Church of St. George will take roughly 1.5 to 2 hours. It is accessible to any level hiker and only has a few short bursts of inclines.

After visiting the church, you can trek downslope to explore the Schenna Castle and Mausoleum. The fierce neo-Gothic style of the Schenna Mausoleum makes it a striking sight well worth admiring up close.

Another option after the church visit is to hike back to Verdins. If you time your outing right, you can feast at the Dorfstub’m — a rustic stube in Verdins radiating heart-warming South Tyrolean charm.

Mountainside tavern serving traditional South Tyrol food

The Dorfstub’m in Verdins is as rustic and relaxing as they come.

The Dorfstub’m is a part of the Verdinser Hof wellness resort. which we have not had the good fortune to experience yet, but if you are seeking 4-star accommodations near Schenna, it looks absolutely divine.

For additional hiking ideas in and around Schenna, visit the official Schenna tourism site. As you’ll discover, the area teems with outdoor adventure laced with historic treasures throughout.

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Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

The first time your eyes lock on the Sabiona Monastery set atop a jigsaw of crags and spurs high above the artists’ village of Chiusa, your fate is sealed. Embarking on a lofty adventure to the “Holy Mountain of South Tyrol” becomes a must.

THE SABIONA MONASTERY (also known as Säben Abbey) is impossible to miss while cruising over the Brenner Pass between Brixen and Bolzano. Like so many sights along the ancient Roman passage, it looms with undeniable intrigue.

So much so that when we first spotted the historic landmark from the roadway it practically steered us to the next available exit. Letting this grand medieval mystery teasing the heavens remain unknown to us was not an option.

We found a public parking lot conveniently located on the edge of the town — almost directly underneath the steep rock face rising to the foot of the monastery. Gazing up we were at a loss on how to reach the site.

Fortunately, the tourist information center in Chiusa (also known as Klausen) was not far into town. A staff member kindly revealed the mountain top mystery to us and now we get to reveal it to you.

About the Sabiona Monastery

According to legend, Saint Cassian of Imola founded the monastery around the year 350 A. D. However, the rocky outcropping upon which it sits was historically significant even centuries before then.

Archaeological studies show evidence of dwellings on the “Acropolis of Tyrol” dating back to the age of Ötzi the Iceman. Ancient Romans also used the mountain likely as a military outpost. The rocky perch overlooking the narrowest point of Brenner Pass would have allowed Augustus, Caesar and the like to swiftly close southern Europe from northern threats.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy.

Findings from excavations over the years indicate houses of Christian worship were present by the 5th century. A century later the Roman Catholic Church installed a bishop on Sabiona resulting in the spread of Christianity throughout the region. For this reason, faithful South Tyroleans consider it their “Holy Mountain”.

Sabiona Monastery in South Tyrol — For centuries Sabiona Monastery has been a pilgramage for the faithful.

By the 1400s, additional churches and fortifications were built on the mountain creating much of the Gothic castle-like appearance of the monastery that is visible today. We were surprised to discover that since the late 1600s, it has been home to nuns under the Order of St. Benedict.

Even though the large parts of the monastery are not accessible to tourists due to Benedictine rules (nuns are not allowed to interact with guests), visitors can still trek to see the historic churches of the monastery including the Church of the Holy Cross, whose founding was more than 1,400 years ago.

How to Reach the Sabiona Monastery

The steep staircase to Sabiona begins on the western edge of Chiusa. This is a blessing. You will likely arrive in the town on the eastern end meaning you get to experience the fairy tale setting of Chiusa.

The town is tucked tightly between the mountainside and the Isarco River, which may at first seem a bit of an odd location for a thriving community. But when viewed through a historical lens it makes perfect sense. In the Middle Ages and before, Chiusa would have been an ideal defensive position not to mention a treasure trove of coin collecting as any travelers wishing to pass through had to pay a toll.

As the “City of Artists”, Chiusa offers much more to discover beyond the Sabiona Monastery.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy. The very definition of quaint and cozy kissed with a vibrant zest. The colorful pastels gracing many of the medieval facades will make you think you wandered onto a canvas.

Reaching the Sabiona stairs carries you directly through Chiusa’s old-world heart over a narrow street known as Via Città Alta. It is dotted by numerous shops, cafes and taverns prime for discovering the artisanal talents of local South Tyroleans.

The town prides itself as the “City of Artists” with an artful legacy that includes visits by greats such as Albrecht Dürer — one of the most celebrated painters of the Renaissance. In fact, he was so enamored by Chiusa he used the village as the backdrop for his famous copper-plate engraving of the Greek goddess Nemesis in 1502.

Climb the Stairway to Heaven

By the following signs for Sabiona, you will find the staircase on a sleepy side alley to the right of the main street. Along this stretch, you will encounter a fascinating looking building known as the Mineralienecke (Mineral Store).

It appears as if from a Game of Thrones set. The building’s outer wall is clad with an assortment of medieval tools making it an iconic place to snap a photo.

Mineralienecke in Chiusa — Choose your weapon? The Mineralienecke building is a one-of-kind curisoity in Chiusa.

We could not figure out how to visit the inside, but perhaps just as well. If the outside is any indication of what lies within, poor souls who enter may stumble upon a torture chamber.

Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

The stairs begin around the corner under a large crucifix. Upon starting the climb, pause for a moment to consider the hallowed ground you are walking on. The stone beneath your feet has led pilgrims to Sabiona for centuries. The hike you are now embarking on is one of the oldest pilgrimages in Europe.

The stairs offer a steep ascent that shortly leads you past Branzoll Castle, a privately owned fortress towering above vineyards. The path then branches off allowing you to choose either the Sabiona Promenade — a rugged walk through the mountain’s forested slopes — or a gentler path called Via Cruxis that is decorated with the Stations of the Cross.

We chose to take the hiking trail up and return to Chiusa along the historic route. This option does make your Sabiona adventure a bit longer and certainly more sweat-inducing.

From here, the hike up takes around 30 minutes and rewards you with multiple points to enjoy sweeping views of Chiusa and the Isarco Valley. The trail is not dangerous, but if you are not accustomed to hiking we recommend taking the Via Cruxis path up and down.

Experience Vivid Stillness

The first sight to visit once arriving at the sprawling monastery grounds is its oldest structure — the Church of the Holy Cross. It sits on the highest point of the mountain.

The origins of the church date back to the 500s when it was the cathedral for Bishop Ingenuinus who lies in eternal rest inside.

Walking into the Church of the Holy Cross is like traversing the tides of time.

Bishop Ingenuinus or “Little Kneeling One” as his name suggests, was likely bishop of Sabiona from 577 until his death in 605. He is viewed as a patron saint of mountain people.

The outside of the church is captivating with a 40 foot painted cross gracing its outer apse. But it is the inside that rivets the imagination — especially if you can visit when sunlight is pouring through the windows.

In the 17th century, an unnamed artist painted striking frescoes throughout the interior. Many of these vivid biblical scenes evoke the feeling of being within a grand marbled hall.

The church’s elaborate crucifix from the 15th century is a wonder to look upon.

In addition to the fantastical paintings, the church exhibits the carvings of Leonhard von Brixen — a sculptor and painter from the 15th century. His moving crucifix high in the apse is a historic gem of religious realism.

After absorbing the treasures of the church, we suggest sliding into a pew to allow the inspiring stillness of this space wash over you. Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

Wander the Mountain Top

Beyond visiting the Church of the Holy Cross, you can also walk around the complex admiring the age-old courtyard and tower, another small chapel, as well as other beautiful works of religious art set about the grounds.

If you want to take in more splendid panoramas while atop the mountain, hop on a trail that darts to the east of the monastery. You will be able to peer deep into the horizon like a Roman soldier scanning for a sign of the Gauls and Goths.

Once you have thoroughly worked up a thirst and appetite from all of the exploring and soulful reflection, take the Via Cruxis route back down to Chiusa. Besides the fact you are now going downhill, you will find this path easier as it is in better shape and a gentler grade.

The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

In addition to the Stations of the Cross, an impressive castled wall will be your companion much of the way. It encircles the monastery grounds until the hill steepens into a terraced vineyard right beneath the octagonal church known as Liebfrauenkirche.

Peace among the vines. The Liebfrauenkirche church stands over row upon row of grapevines that tumble down the mountainside.

The Liebfrauenkirche church was added to the Sabiona Monastery in the 1650s. It is also open for visiting. Inside, you can study Baroque artwork of the Virgin Mary from several notable artists. While we did not have an opportunity to see it, a baptismal fountain dating to the 5th century is inside as well.

Explore the Charms of Chiusa

Once back in town we suggest spending the remainder of your day exploring Chiusa. If you’re not in the mood for a bite to eat yet, pay a visit to the boutiques you passed along the Via Città Alta. From browsing the wood carvings of Val Gardena to the paintings of local artists and more, you will undoubtedly discover a keepsake or gift for a loved one.

A Woodcarver in Chiusa — If you time your visit right to a shop in Chiusa, you may catch an artist in the midst of crafting their latest vision.

Additional sights you will find of interest is the Chiesa di Sant’Andrea near the town center. This picturesque church by the river was first mentioned in 1208.

After your visit, cross the nearby bridge and meander along the riverfront. The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

Chiusa River Promenade — Romance ripples along the rivery shores of Chuisa.

For a deeper dive into the world of art, consider visiting the Museum of Chiusa. It holds the Treasure of Loreto, a priceless collection of religious objects and paintings from Spanish and Italian artists of the 16th and 17th century.

To appease your hunger and thirst immediately after visiting the monastery, we recommend venturing to Gassl Bräu. This craft brewery and tavern is situated just steps away from the staircase to Sabiona.

Gassl Bräu offers an idyllic indoor or outdoor dining setting and delicious fare that will suit the staunchest Tyrolean and the pickiest Italian. If you’re a beer enthusiast, be sure to enjoy a pint or two of Gassl Bräu’s beer, but also wander into the brewery. It is quite possibly the only one in the world with a trout stream running beneath the floor.

When to Visit the Sabiona Monastery

No matter the time of year you visit South Tyrol you can add a hike to the Sabiona Monastery to your trip plans. The site is open all year. If you go in the winter months, consider bringing a set of hiking poles and obviously the appropriate footwear.

The churches are open for visitation from 8 AM to 5 PM. It’s worth noting that if a door is locked it is likely Sabiona’s nuns are cleaning the interior. Simply wander to a different church and return later to see if it is unlocked.

Experience the Dolomites: 7 Places You Can Virtually Visit

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Is this time of self-isolation and social distancing getting to you yet? It is us. That’s why we decided to find out how to visit the Dolomites right now while stuck indoors.

Fortunately, we uncovered a multitude of 360-degree experiences ripe for pretending to be amid the peaks. These immersive panoramas offer stunning views rivaled only by the real thing.

Elevate your mood by diving into this collection of virtual outings in the Dolomites. By the end, you’ll hopefully be feeling what we like to call #mountainstrong.

Gardena Pass

Gardena Pass (also known as Grödnerjoch and Passo Gardena) is a high mountain pass bridging Val Gardena and Val Badia. The number of jaw-dropping views of the Dolomites along the pass is astounding as it is virtually in the heart of the range.

The best part? Everyone can enjoy the scenery. Gardena Pass can be traversed by foot, bike or car.

➤ Sunset Over Gardena Pass: http://www.360cities.net/image/sunset-over-gardena-pass-dolomites-italy#-33.68,2.40,70.0

➤ A View from the Summit of Gran Cir: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AB&labels=1

➤ Sella & Sassolungo Group in Early Fall: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AL&labels=1

➤ Sella Group in Summer: https://www.360cities.net/image/panoramic-view-from-gardena-pass-south-tyrol-italy-1

Tre Cime di Lavaredo

The rugged peaks of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (also known as Drei Zinnen and Three Peaks of Lavaredo) need little introduction to mountain lovers. This mighty trio’s thundering presence makes them the symbolic face of the Dolomites.

➤ The Three Peaks in the Late Afternoon Sun: https://goo.gl/maps/xKbpDbyD9pngpF529

➤ Zoom in From the Sky: http://www.topviewtrail.com/sassodisesto/trecime.html

➤ A View from a Summit of Tre Cime di Lavaredo: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2012_HK&labels=1

Lago di Carezza

Lago di Carezza (also known as Karesee) is another striking body of water in the Dolomites of South Tyrol. Although smaller than Lago di Braies its emerald shimmer is even more magical as it appears to transform before the eyes.

In October 2018, a violent wind storm tore through the region destroying thousands of acres of forestland around the lake. The following 360-degree panoramas will give you a sense of the devastation.

➤ An Aerial VIew of Lago di Carezza Before the Storm: https://goo.gl/maps/PqrkDNS2zhbcfa91A

➤ An Aerial VIew of Lago di Carezza After the Storm: https://goo.gl/maps/yievBYEfL2CVvhSK7

➤ Lago di Carezza from the Shoreline: http://www.360cities.net/image/karersee#275.24,1.95,70.0

According to forestry experts, it will take 120 to 150 years for the forest to return to its previous form.

Val di Funes

The majestic Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss) is an unspoilt valley home to the northern faces of the saw-toothed Odle (Geisler) peaks. The contrast between its sleepy rolling meadows and the serrated stone spires of the Dolomites defines dramatic mountain scenery.

➤ The Odle Peaks Under the Spell of Alpenglow: http://www.360cities.net/image/glatschalm-villnoess#344.74,-6.68,70.0

➤ Virtually Trek the Adolf Munkel Trail: https://goo.gl/maps/RUq7Mo6S4Znw21aa7

➤ Visit the Church of St. Johann: https://goo.gl/maps/i7Vcg1QNwQjZW6618

Seceda

Seceda Mountain is at once a jaw-dropping and mystifying construct of nature. Its speary crags careen skyward like gnarled fingers grasping for life. Seeing them up close for the first time can be equally awe-inspiring and jarring — especially when a mist of clouds creeps over their tips.

➤ Seceda in Spring: https://goo.gl/maps/odv8KG7AQqCn7k6E8

➤ Seceda in Winter: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2013_B6&labels=1

Lago di Braies

One never tires staring deep into the emerald waters of Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee). The most popular lake in the Dolomites, Lago di Braies enthralls in all seasons. A circular trail wraps around its shores allowing hikers to find their mountain-lake backdrop. And if that doesn’t work they can row to the middle of the lake to take it all in at once.

➤ From the Shores of Lago di Braies: http://www.360cities.net/image/lago-di-braies#-23.62,-7.29,70.0

➤ An Aerial View of Lago di Braies: https://goo.gl/maps/CYok9qKAuUyVJkmV9

➤ A View From a Boat: https://goo.gl/maps/UPkcJT2nqeB5ENJ38

➤ Lago di Braies in Winter: https://goo.gl/maps/6Lm4ftQiih8HGXps8

Alpe di Siusi / Seiser Alm

Alpe di Siusi (also known as a Seiser Alm) is sprawling Alpine pastureland that tumbles into several iconic mountains of the Dolomites. Its gentle hills and abundance of traditional mountainside taverns make it one of the best places in South Tyrol to immerse yourself in mountain scenery and culture by foot or bike.

➤ Alpe di Siusi in Summer: https://goo.gl/maps/qaZoWNLvnEeM1jB27

➤ A View from the Summit of Schlern Mountain: https://www.mountainpanoramas.com/___p/___p.html?panoid=2017_AE&labels=1

➤ A View of Schlern & the St. Valentin Chapel: http://www.360cities.net/image/st-valentin-oberhalb-von-seis?proj=panini_projection#0.57,-5.18,110.0

Dream Now. Visit When You Can

At the time of this writing, there is still too much uncertainty as to how soon any of us can return to the Dolomites. But no matter if it’s later this year or next, do your soul some good by dreaming and planning your escape to South Tyrol. The hard-working people of the region are counting on it.

In addition to virtually visiting the Dolomites through the above links, consider also flipping your laptop shut and reading a book about the region. Check out our recommended South Tyrol-related books for some ideas. And if you are itching to do some serious trip planning, start mapping out where you want to go by reading about the top hikes in the Dolomites.

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Virtually experience the Dolomites by diving into stunning 360-degree panoramas!

Discover the Best Hikes in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 17 Comments

Looking for the best hikes in the Dolomites? Our hiker-inspired list will help you confidently plan your adventure-filled holidays in the Dolomites.

WE KNOW HOW hard it is to plan a trip to the Dolomites when every mountain and valley seems like a must-see. Especially if you only have 2-3 days to visit.

With 26 majestic ranges emblazoned by more than 3,600 trails, it’s easy to quickly become overwhelmed by the hiking possibilities. To help you, we went beyond our own experiences and surveyed the web analyzing the ratings and reviews of Dolomite hikes featured on the world’s leading travel sites.

The result? An in-depth overview of the top hikes in the Dolomites based on the experience of thousands of hikers — not just our opinion. In addition, we have also included helpful tips for creating a Dolomites itinerary that ensures your time in Italy is even more amazing.

#1 Tre Cime di Lavaredo

Located in the Tre Cime Natural Park in the Sexten Dolomites of South Tyrol, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (also known as Drei Zinnen and Three Peaks of Lavaredo) are the most famous trio of stone giants in the Dolomites. Their staggering immensity is hard to put into words. But to give you a striking perspective notice the tiny specks of hikers approaching the Three Peaks in the above photo. Such a sight makes it easy to understand why Tre Cime di Lavaredo tops the list of best hikes in the Dolomites.

The spear-like peaks, Cima Piccola, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest, pierce the sky at 9,373, 9,839 and 9,754 feet respectively. If they do not make your heart race upon first sight, check your pulse.

Angel of the Fallen monument at Tre Cime di Lavaredo — The Angel of the Fallen is a monument honoring the soldiers who fought among the peaks during WWI.

A mostly level hiking trail loops around the Three Peaks making these three amigos of the Dolomites incredibly popular with hikers of all ages and experience levels. The hike takes roughly four hours beginning from the parking lot near the Rifugio Auronzo mountain hut.

In addition to admiring the towering monoliths up close, you will also encounter military remnants from World War I including tunnels and trenches as the Front tore directly through here. For more about the war’s impact, see our award-winning story: Forest of the Fallen.

#2 Lago di Braies

It’s no surprise one of the most beautiful lakes in the world is among the best places in the Dolomites. A jewel of Italy, Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee, Lake Braies and Lake Prags) attracts throngs of visitors from around the world each year.

Regardless of the season, the lake set against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains is a sight to behold. But to see it sparkle like a rare emerald, plan to visit between May and November.

The trail around Lago di Braies is one of the best hikesin the Dolomites — When you’re done hiking around Lago di Braies, consider rowing about the lake in a vintage wooden boat.

A hiking trail encircles the lake beginning from Hotel Braies. It is an easy 2-hour hike that does not require any skill or feat of fitness.

But the trek may require you to dodge other hikers as this gem becomes incredibly busy. See our complete guide to hiking Lake Braies for details on how to enjoy the “Emerald of Italy” without the crowds.

#3 Seceda

Our personal favorite on this list, Seceda mountain (also known as the Seceda Ridgeline or Fermeda Towers) is an awe-inspiring spectacle soaring high above Val Gardena in the Puez-Odle Nature Park. Its ridgeline runs peacefully above an Alpine prairie before the saw-toothed peaks known as the Fermeda Towers cleave the heavens.

Seeing these serrated crags up close is a must for mountain lovers. In addition, the views of other famous South Tyrolean peaks from the seat of Seceda is astounding.

Dolomites in Sudtirol — One of the best hikes in the Dolomites is without a doubt along the Seceda ridgeline.

A series of lifts make reaching Seceda rather easy. The level of difficulty a hiker encounters depends on the route they choose to take down the mountain. Plan on 4-6 hours if you choose to wander from Seceda to the Twin Peaks of Pieralongia and beyond. You can find all the details and options in our hiking Seceda guide.

#4 Alpe di Siusi

Hiking around Schlern in the Dolomites — Hiking Alpe di Sisui brings you face-to-face with many symbolic mountains of the Dolomites such as Schlern.

We adore hiking Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm). As Europe’s highest Alpine pasture, it unfurls jaw-dropping mountain vistas in the most dramatic way. The pasture land is a plateau rimmed by the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites – Schlern, Sassolungo and the Rosengarten.

Thanks to its many gently rolling hills, Alpe di Siusi is a walker’s paradise. Several hiking trails criss-cross the plateau making it one of the more popular day hikes in the Dolomites.

In addition, a network of mountain huts allows you to savor some of the best homemade meals in the region. Our favorite is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. This family-owned gem (pictured above) offers the best views of the Sassolungo Group. Plus, all of their food comes directly from their own farm.

Plan to spend a minimum of a half-day hiking. Our Alpe di Siusi hiking guide gives you step-by-step directions to this Alpine wonderland.

#5 Lago di Carezza

Another lake not to miss in the Dolomites is Lago di Carezza (also known as Karesee, Karer Lake or Lake Carezza). Even more magical than Lago di Braies (if you believe the legends), Lake Carezza shimmers beneath the Latemar mountain range of the Dolomites in Val d’ Ega. Less than 30 minutes from the charming city of Bolzano, it is a convenient hiking destination for anyone staying in the heart of South Tyrol.

Lago di Carezza is often referred to as the Fairytale Lake of the Dolomites. Its ever-changing rainbow of emerald colors inspired legends long ago of a wizard and nymph. You can attempt to spot both myths by hiking an evergreen-forested loop around the lake. It is only a 30-minute hike, but with plenty of opportunities to explore, a visit can easily turn into 2+ hours.

Hiking Lago di Carezza in winter — Lago di Carezza transforms into a postcard-perfect winter wonderland during the Christmas season.

If you are in South Tyrol during the holidays, be sure to visit the Lago di Carezza Christmas Market as well. Set along the shoreline, the market brims with the cozy tidings of the season. And somehow the frozen lake still dances with a theater of icy hues.

While Lago di Braies tends to get much of the attention in the Dolomites, we prefer the pure stillness of Lago di Carezza and the Latemar mountains. If you like tranquil moments while hiking, you will find them here.

#6 Sassolungo & Sassopiatto

Sassolungo and Sassopiatto (also known as Langkofel and Plattkofel) are jagged behemoths making up the Langkofel group of the Dolomites. The sight of them from a distance is astounding. Up close it is jarring. In a way that enlivens all your senses.

From traversing the surreal “City of Stone” to taking in the undulating expanse of Alpe di Siusi from their mountainsides, hiking amid these imposing peaks should rank higher on this list in our opinion. For us, these giants encapsulate what we love about the Dolomites more than any other mountains in the world — the ability to experience their entirety from so many different vantage points.

Dog in the Dolomites — The Sassolungo-Sassiopattio hike also offers sweeping views of the Sella Group as well as this beautiful lady…if you’re lucky!

A lengthy hiking trail of varying difficulty runs around Sassolungo and Sassopiatto. Trekking the Sassolungo circuit will take your breath away in more ways than one.

Fortunately, a handful of mountain huts dot the route allowing you ample opportunities to rest and recharge with food and drink. We suggest beginning the hike at the Passo Sella parking lot in Selva (Wolkenstein). The loop takes 7 hours to complete, but you do not have to trek the full circuit to experience this heavenly group of the Dolomites.

#7 Odle Group of Val di Funes

While researching hikes in the Dolomites, chances are you have come across the picturesque scene of the Church of St. Maddalena or the Chapel of St. Johann against the roaring backdrop of the Odle Group (also known as Geisler Group). These historic churches reside in Val di Funes (Villnöss) and are emblematic sights of South Tyrol.

In addition to visiting Val di Funes for such saintly views, you can embark on a hike that carries you directly to the foot of the mighty Odle peaks. The Adolf Munkel Trail is often touted as the most beautiful of the Dolomites’ hiking trails. Hard to argue with the claim once you see its storybook setting.

Relaxing in the Dolomites — Few mountain vistas can top the Odle Group from Val di Funes.

This 3 to 4-hour hike runs through sleepy pastureland and old-growth forests allowing you to experience the wide variety of landscapes and nature adorning the Dolomites. The trail is not difficult to traverse making it a popular choice for families.

You’ll find the trailhead for the Adolf Munkel Trail at the Zanser Alm parking lot, which is about 15-minutes past the tiny Chapel of St. Johann. See our guide to visiting Val di Funes for more about this enchanting valley.

#8 The Vajolet Towers

The Rosengarten Group (also known as Catinaccio) of the Dolomites seems to spike endlessly across the horizon allowing you to admire its peaks and spires from many points in South Tyrol including Bolzano. The range is at its most stunning during sunset when afire with a red glow.

This natural phenomenon known as alpenglow or “Enrosadira”, as it is beautifully referred to in Ladin (Ladin is an ancient language still spoken in the Dolomites), inspired a legend about a dwarf king and his rose garden hence the mountain group’s name. But if you really want to appreciate the grandeur of the Rosengarten, consider hiking to the group’s most famous summits: the Vajolet Towers (also known as Torri del Vajolet and the Violet Towers).

Another famous trio of the Dolomites, the Vajolet Towers thunder skyward in Val di Tiers — a valley of pure wild-hearted beauty. The three dolomitic towers, Delago, Stabeler and Winkler (named after the first climbers to conquer their summits), reign over a surreal, barren landscape. So barren in fact, you may even wonder if you wandered through a portal to Mars on the 5-7 hour circuit.

The **Rifugio Vajolet mountain hut** is ideally located to give your legs a rest and your eyes a stunning scene before continuing on to the Vajolet Towers.

By all accounts, this is the most difficult hike on this list, which is why this corner of the Dolomites is less well known thus fewer tourists. The trek begins by taking a lift up from the Laurin Lift station in the village of Welschnofen (also known as Nova Levante) to the Rifugio Fronza (Rosengarten Hut).

How to Experience the Dolomites

The above hiking destinations are the most popular in the Dolomites for a reason. However, neither us nor anyone else can define what the best hikes in the Dolomites are for you. You have to find that out on your own.

When planning your hiking outings do not let the “fear of missing out” on a trail or sight muddle your time in the Dolomites. Cramming in destinations is a mistake. South Tyrol is a land of slow travel.

Pasta in the Italian Dolomites — Sometimes the best hike in the Dolomites is from one mountain hut to the next!

Beyond enjoying the breathtaking scenery, take the time to experience the enthralling culture of the region from its savory cuisine to its riveting history to its heart-warming traditions such as woodcarving.

If you’re like us, you may just find the best hike is each and every outing no matter where you roam.

What to Know Before Hiking in the Dolomites

Before planning your trip and embarking on hikes in the Dolomites you should know the following:

As the “best” in the Dolomites, these hiking destinations can at times be bustling with other hikers especially during the peak season of summer. Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall. However, be sure to check the lift station operating schedules for any hikes requiring a cable car ride.
Weather can be unpredictable and change quickly in the Dolomites. Make sure you sport proper clothing, footwear and gear before venturing into the mountains.
Understand how to read the trail signs. Review the trail sign guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library to become comfortable with their instructions.
Consider using South Tyrol’s affordable public transportation system to hike the Dolomites in the most environmentally-friendly way possible. Buses regularly bring hikers to these destinations.
If you plan to rent a car during your trip, see our Driving in Italy guide to understand what is legally required and the rules of the road.
While you may encounter English-speaking staff at the restaurants and resorts, it’s helpful and respectful to know some basic German or Italian. You can find guides to both languages in our South Tyrol Travel Resource Library mentioned above.

Dolomites Hiking Guidebook — A **Dolomites hiking guide book** is invaluable in finding the hidden gems of the Dolomites.

Creating Your Dolomites Itinerary

For every Dolomites itinerary, we recommend selecting one hiking destination per day. Each region of the Dolomites offers much more to see than these hiking routes.

In fact, consider purchasing the hiking guide: Shorter Walks in the Dolomites. It covers step-by-step directions to lesser-known trails with equally grand scenery. This book is especially helpful if you are keen on avoiding crowds while hiking.

But if you’re set on embarking on as many of these outings as possible, here are the ones you can plan together as day hikes in the Dolomites:

Tre Cime di Lavaredo & Lago di Braies – These two destinations are less than an hour apart by car.
Lago di Carezza & Vajolet Towers – Since the hiking trail at Lago di Carezza is quite short you can also trek to the Vajolet Towers on the same day. The lift station is just 10 minutes from the lake.
Seceda & Alpe di Siusi – The lifts to each destination are opposite of each other in the village of Ortisei. If you time the lifts wisely you can see the iconic sights of both.

Want help crafting your itinerary? Take advantage of our expertise with our South Tyrol Itinerary Review Service.

Where to Stay in the Dolomites

View of Sassolungo Mountain — A view to a thrill! **Hotel Ansitz Jakoberhof** in Ortisei offers a spellbinding panorama of Sassolungo and Sassopiatto.

To get the most out of your holidays in the Dolomites, consider staying near the region where you will be hiking the most. From luxury resorts to mountain huts to farm stays for as little as 30-50 € per night, you will have no problem finding accommodations that fit your budget and desires. Here are recommendations for each area:

If you would like a 5-star experience while in the Dolomites, check out our detailed reviews of Romantik Hotel Turm and Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort. Both resorts will dazzle with a host of Alpine wellness amenities and treatments that perfectly complement a long day of hiking.

Additional Tips for Your Holidays in the Dolomites

No doubt the Dolomites are a tremendous draw for South Tyrol. But the Dolomites make up only part of the region’s mountain story.

In addition to your hikes in the Dolomites, consider hiking in the Italian Alps to the west where you will encounter a wonderous collision of Mediterranean and Alpine mountainscapes. See our guide to visiting South Tyrol for more about what awaits you in Italy’s best-kept secret!

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Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure in South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

Lana, Italy is a beaming bouquet of South Tyrol’s most beloved qualities. Here is your guide to adventure and enchantment in this mountain-ringed gem.

NO MATTER HOW many adventures you embark on in South Tyrol, the land never fails to surprise you. This rings especially true when visiting Lana.

A charming oasis pairing old-world ambiance with cosmopolitan vibes, Lana arises amid the orchards and vineyards bridging Bolzano and Merano. Its ideal location makes for a wonderful base during a trip to South Tyrol — especially in autumn when chestnuts, wine and Törggelen summon a festive spirit.

As we show you below, Lana teems with swoon-worthy sights caught in the enthralling collision of Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes. You will find this hidden corner of South Tyrol produces abundant moments of awe and some of the most prized grapes and apples in Europe.

What to See & Do in Lana

All of South Tyrol’s splendor from the majestic peaks of the Dolomites to the fabled streets of Bolzano and Merano are within easy reach of Lana. But the town itself abounds with so many riveting hiking trails and cultural wonders that it is a must experience all its own.

If you only have a few days to visit Lana, here are the top things to see and do in the “California of the Alps”.

1. Explore Mount Vigiljoch

San Vigilio Church in South Tyrol — The San Vigilio Church is a hike-worthy wonder near the summit of Mt. Vigiljoch.

A trip to South Tyrol is not complete without enjoying the sweeping panoramas from the skyscraping heights of a mountain. And there is perhaps no better mountain to ascend than Vigiljoch (also known as San Vigilio). A 6,200+ foot giant, the mountain careens to the heavens from the foot of Lana.

This forest-clad massif lets you peer deep to the east to spy some of the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites. But the theater of the sky does not end there. To the west, rise the magnificent Ortler Alps where the king of South Tyrol’s peaks, Ortler, commands reverence. Turn your eyes to the north and the Ötztal Alps thunder before you. These peaks were the glacial home to Ötzi the Iceman for 5,300 years.

The San Vigilio Cable Car from Lana whisks you partway up the mountain in a matter of minutes. Built in 1912, it is the second oldest cable car in Europe.

Hiking trail on Mount Vigiljoch — A hike on Mount Vigiljoch on a clear day offers views of the Dolomites to the east.

At the end of the ride, you can continue the sweat-free ascent by hopping on a lift chair. It will drop you below a hill crowned by the San Vigilio Church. This small stone chapel rises from the ruins of a prehistoric shrine. Since the Medieval Age, the San Vigilio Church has welcomed patrons.

Taking the chairlift no doubt stuns above the treetops, but it robs you of one of the most serene hikes in South Tyrol. After departing the cable car, we recommend hiking trail no. 1, which leads you through ancient larch forests where the silence greets you like a long lost friend.

Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal while naming each peak of the Dolomites beautifying the horizon.

From trail no. 1 you will take trail 34A up a boulder-riddled slope that opens into a bright meadow with a mountain stream pouring its heart out. The mineral-rich water of Vigiljoch is revered for its healing properties. In fact, the spa Terme Merano fills its thermal pools with water pumped directly from the mountain.

Mount Vigiljoch Water and Mushroom — It pays to also look down while hiking Mount Vigiljoch. Alpine magic springs forth from within the mountain.

Trail no. 34A eventually connects with trail no. 34B. We recommend hopping on 34B to ramble your way up to the Bärenbadalm. Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal while naming each peak of the Dolomites beautifying the horizon.

When ready continue hiking on trail no. 2. Within 20 minutes you will reach San Vigilio Church. A stone path snakes off the trail guiding you to the church entrance.

First mentioned in 1278, locals still refer to the church as the “weather church” as it is said to protect people from thunderstorms. It is not open to guests, but the gated doorway allows you to peek inside and ponder faded frescoes from the 14th century.

Mount Vigiljoch Church — Trekking to the San Vigilio Church is a must while in Lana.

After admiring the church, shuffle down the slope to begin your return to the San Vigilio Cable Car. Follow trail no. 4 to the chairlift station and then veer off to trail no. 8.

A short walk leads to an outlook platform jutting out above the tips of pines. Here, you will survey a grand checkerboard of vineyards and orchards, far-off villages and an even clearer picture of the Dolomites.

A viewing platform on Mt. Vigiljoch offers a sweeping views of the most iconic peaks of the Dolomites.

Trek back to trail no. 4 and follow it down the mountain to trail no. 34. Once on trail no. 34, it is only another 20 minutes to the cable car station.

Before floating back to Lana, consider relaxing with a refreshment on the sun terrace of the Vigilius Mountain Resort — a 5-star resort that seemingly disappears into the mountainside.

2. Trek the Marlinger Waalweg

If you have never hiked along a Waalweg in South Tyrol, the Marlinger Waalweg (also known as Marlengo) is a picturesque introduction to the magic these trails offer hikers. Waalwegs are ancient waterways that run throughout the countryside of Merano and Val Venosta.

As early as the 12th century, farmers carved them into the mountainsides to channel snowmelt from the summits. Capturing the pure elixir flowing from the peaks was the surest way to satisfy the thirst of the area’s orchards and vineyards. Paths followed the canals allowing farmers to keep them free of debris.

The sweet aromas enveloping the trail are enough alone to impart a smile on even the most haggard hiker.

The Marlinger Waalweg was built nearly 300 years ago and stretches 7+ miles high above the Etschtal valley (Val d’Adige) from Lana to the small hamlet of Töll. Hiking it takes 4-5 hours gently weaving you through a wealth of natural beauty.

The Marlinger Waalweg offers you 7+ miles of breathtaking beauty.

A handful of mountainside restaurants such as the Gasthaus Leitenschenke sit right on the trail pairing sumptuous dishes with even more sumptuous views. If you dine at Gasthaus Leitenschenke in autumn, be sure to order the South Tyrolean Chestnut Hearts dessert. It is a delectable dream of chocolate, chestnuts and cream not to miss.

As you walk along the trail, the calming melody of babbling water remains your companion. You’ll pass through orchards dappled with apples, plums and other fruits and dart underneath arches of vines basking their bulbous jewels in the sun.

The sweet aromas enveloping the trail are enough alone to impart a smile on even the most haggard hiker.

Eventually, the path bends through deciduous forests and groves of old chestnut trees. These elders of the waalweg welcome you with ample amounts of shade and a bit of mischief as you may have to dodge the occasional falling chestnut.

3. Storm the Lebenberg Castle

The most striking historic sight you will encounter on the Marlinger Waalweg is the Lebenberg Castle (also known as Castel Monteleone). It salutes you from high above a steep avalanche of vineyards tumbling to the valley floor.

The Lords of Marling adorned the mountainside with Lebenberg Castle in the 13th century. While it is a sight worthy of lengthy admiration from a distance, the real pleasure comes from walking among its illustrious walls.

Studying the room one can't help but wonder what history remains hidden behind each blade and musket.

Inside, the sprawling fortress reveals the romantic and brutal realities of medieval life. The tour begins in a courtyard bedecked with grapevines and proceeds to the castle’s Gothic chapel of St. Stephan. Adjoined to Lebenberg in the 14th century, the chapel is awash in religious artwork of the time.

Lebenberg Castle Panorama — Views fit for a king. The Lebenberg Castle is one of the most celebrated castles in South Tyrol.

After visiting the chapel, the tour continues to another courtyard and to a room holding a collection of arms and torture contraptions. Studying the room one can’t help but wonder what history remains hidden behind each blade and musket.

Before concluding the tour, it also brings you to a Hall of Mirrors, Hall of Knights and another courtyard showcasing French Rococo gardens ornamented with a 200-year old mulberry tree. The vast view of the Etschtal valley through the battlements lining the courtyard paints a vivid picture of why the Lords of Marling chose this mountainside perch.

Reaching Lebenberg castle from the Marlinger Waalweg is a bit of a climb. However, you can also drive to the castle if you wish. Tours are available daily for 8€.

4. Experience the Brandis Waterfall

From the remote crags of the Pacific Northwest and the Rockies to the forested wilds of North America, we have encountered many roaring waterfalls during our hiking adventures, but the tireless plunge of the Brandis waterfall above Lana is among the most eye-catching.

Crashing over cliffs on the edge of the Brandis Waalweg like a pot of gold spilling at the end of a rainbow, the Brandis waterfall is not the grandest we have ever seen. However, its accessible setting gives you something most waterfalls do not: the opportunity to intimately experience its breathless rush. If careful, you can hike nearly beneath the thundering downpour and let its misty splash tickle your face.

Branches gnarled lurch over the trail as if they could snatch you at any moment.

Reaching the waterfall involves a 2+ mile hike along the Brandis Waalweg. Forged by the Lord of Brandis in the 1800s, the water of this waalweg runs beneath the trail instead of by its side.

The Brandis Waalweg leads you on a pleasant, flat ground walk through vineyards and orchards bearing everything from apples to kiwi. As it is set into the mountainside, the trail boasts sweeping views of Lana including historical gems such as the St. Margherita Chapel, the crumbling ruins of Brandis Castle and the Parish Church of Maria Himmelfarht, celebrated for its winged altar carved out of chestnut in the early 1500s.

About halfway through the hike, an old chestnut forest receives you with shade and alarm. Branches gnarled with age lurch over the trail as if they could snatch you at any moment.

In the heart of the grounds, tempts an immense labyrinth made from an entanglement of evergreen hedges and grapevines.

Beyond the forest lies a few farmsteads where you may have to negotiate the trail with a loose chicken or three while trying to ignore the laughter of llamas below. Eventually, you will pass intriguing works of art dotting the trail before entering the Brandis Gaul. From here, you will trot over a wooden bridge following the Brandis stream all the way to the waterfall.

On the return hike, the Waalrast restaurant offers a chance to drink and eat under the guard of the Brandis Castle before venturing back to the trail’s starting point. Round trip the hike takes roughly 2 hours.

5. Summit the Hill of St. Hippolyt Church

Like the ancient stone chapel on Mount Vigiljoch, the Church of St. Hippolyt near Lana is not among the most arresting churches one could adore, but the scenery from its rocky hilltop transcends any cathedral.

Once atop, your eyes will sweep over 20 villages and 40 some odd castles strewn across the lush valley.

This small Romanesque church from the 1200s honors a relatively unknown patron whose past is largely born of legend. Fitting in a way, as the hill the Church of St. Hippolyt sits upon has religious roots dating back 4,000 years. Since ancient times, it was thought to be a source of mystical energy.

Trails around Lana lead to St. Hippolyt, but the quickest way to reach the church is to start from a parking lot located at the foot of its hill. From here, it is a 10-15 minute hike through woodland to the summit. The hike is relatively easy with only a few steep stretches.

6. Contemplate the Gardens & Wine of Kränzelhof Winery

When a town is crowned the largest fruit-growing community in South Tyrol, it is not difficult to happen upon a thriving garden. However, you will not find any more captivating than the seven gardens of the Kränzelhof Estate.

Beyond producing wines of exceptional esteem, this 800-year-old winery also seduces your mind, body and soul with seven gardens embellishing nearly 5 acres at the foot of Mount Vigiljoch. Sculptures and works of art spanning classical to contemporary decorate the immaculately manicured gardens encouraging you to pause and ponder their meaning.

Entrancing sculptures and artwork can be found throughout the gardens of Kränzelhof.

Not all of the sculptures are in obvious places and poses. This imparts a whimsical spirit to the gardens as some will pleasantly surprise you from their hidden nooks.

Complementing your stroll through the gardens with a sampling of Kränzelhof wines is a must.

In the heart of the grounds, tempts an immense labyrinth made from an entanglement of evergreen hedges and grapevines. As we visited the estate near sunset, we gave up puzzling our way through the verdurous maze shortly after entering. We were certain continuing meant some other lost soul would one day stumble over our bones deep within.

After strolling the gardens, we recommend continuing your contemplative journey by tasting the wines of Kränzelhof in the timbered house located at the entrance to the gardens. Even if you do not want to sip wine, be sure to walk through the structure. It is beautifully crafted from larch trees found nearby.

Kranzelhof Winery & Gardens in Lana — The colors of autumn ravish the grounds around the Kränzelhof Winery.

The Kränzelhof Estate and its gardens are open Tuesday-Saturday. You are free to walk the gardens on your own, but guided tours of the entire estate are also available for those interested in consuming the winery’s remarkable history in addition to its wines.

We suggest planning on at least two hours to fully enjoy the Kränzelhof experience. The cost to tour the winery’s gardens and sample its wines is 21€. If you wish to only discover the gardens, the cost is 8€.

Where to Stay in Lana

Hotels and resorts flourish around Lana, but our recommendation is to delight in this timeless town like a local. Experiencing Lana in such a way gives you a greater appreciation for its authentic charms, soulful spirit and historical beauty.

The studio apartments of Landhaus am Gries are ideally located in the old world heart of Lana along the Falschauer river.

Gorgeously decorated and furnished with exquisite craftsmanship throughout, the apartments possess a simple-yet-stylish Alpine interior aesthetic with warm wood tones that make you feel at home. Ours was cozy and spotless, with a dramatic view of autumn afire beneath the mountain crests.

The apartments’ location below the gaze of the 13th-century Braunsberg Castle places you within walking distance of all of Lana’s spectacular sights, restaurants and shops. In addition, a small grocery store, wine bar, butcher shop and specialty gourmet store sit nearby allowing you to easily pick up any items you may want in your apartment.

The moment you walk into Landhaus am Gries the revivifying aroma of fresh-cut stone pine embraces you.

Owned and operated by the Donà family of South Tyrol, the heart-warming hospitality we received during our stay went above and beyond in every manner. Franziska Donà ensures your time in Lana is filled with the idyllic mix of adventure and relaxation.

Landhaus am Gries apartment in Lana — Aromatic wood from the Alps fills each **Landhaus am Gries** apartment with inviting Alpine character.

She will pinpoint how to reach the destinations mentioned above as well as share insights on special events like Lana’s weekly and seasonal markets. In addition, you will receive a MeranCard that provides special discounts to guests of Lana at certain venues such as the San Vigilio Cable Car station.

Franziska Donà makes you feel at home in Lana.

Each of the twelve apartments includes a modern kitchenette, spacious bathroom and a balcony where you can relax with a complimentary bottle from the family’s own boutique winery — Weingut Donà. This lovely winery in Eppan along the South Tyrolean Wine Road is a must-see if your South Tyrol travel wish list includes a genuine peek into the region’s wine culture.

When wishing to soak in the sun or get lost in a good book, a Mediterranean-inspired terrace facing the Falschauer river and Texel Mountain Group welcomes you with lounge chairs, olive trees and palms. Its lofty position above a leafy riverside promenade is a soul-mending way to spend a morning or afternoon.

Landhaus am Gries Sun Terrace — Kate unwinds on the Landhaus am Gries sun terrace after a morning rain shower. Lying just above the Falschauer river, the terrace is an inviting sanctuary for relaxation.

In fact, Landhaus am Gries’ riverside setting may just induce your best night’s sleep while in South Tyrol. We relished dozing off to the lullaby of rippling water rushing by our apartment each night with the skylight giving us a window to the stars above South Tyrol.

The moment you walk into Landhaus am Gries the revivifying aroma of fresh-cut stone pine (called Zirbenholz) embraces you. This sought-after pine of the Alps beautifies the building instilling tranquility that endures during your stay. For centuries, the Alpine regions of Europe have harnessed the wellness aspects of stone pine in their homes. Its pleasant fragrance remains in the wood for decades.

River in Lana in South Tyrol — Of forests, rivers and mountains — Landhaus am Gries places the natural beauty of Lana right outside your door.

The apartment building itself holds a storied past. A farm stable long ago, its rural roots are ennobled by its age-old stone foundation and a historic sculpture gracing a wall near the entrance.

Depicting the patron saint of butchers, the sculpture at one time belonged to a butcher in the family. It once brought good fortune to the butcher shop, but now imparts blessings on all who pause to admire the saint. Dogs included.

If you’re lucky enough to bring your furry friend to South Tyrol, Landhaus am Gries is dog-friendly. A newly opened art promenade running along the river gives your dog plenty to explore just a few steps outside your apartment. Within minutes you can also walk to the imposing Gaul Canyon (“Gaulschlucht”) — a spectacle of steep stone walls, curious rock formations and rainforest-like flora.

If you have a car while in South Tyrol, parking is free and located immediately next to the apartment building.

Landhaus am Gries Sunset — Our stay at Landhaus am Gries ended with a gorgeous sunset below the mountains.

Where to Eat in Lana

Lana and its surrounding villages offer an abundance of one-of-a-kind dining options, from down-to-earth to opulent. Here are a few of our favorite places to eat during your visit.

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery is an establishment unlike any we have ever been. Not only can you indulge in tasty craft brews, but you also can dine in their beer garden or traditional Buschenschank where windows offer a peek into farm animals frolicking within Pfefferlechner’s stables.

Their menu of course nicely complements the rustic ambiance. You can feast on delicious South Tyrolean fare freshly-made from only local ingredients.

Restaurant Stadele

Restaurant Stadele is a romantic gem not to be missed while in Lana. The quaint atmosphere of this candlelit restaurant and its fabulous South Tyrolean dishes and fusion cuisine will make for one of your memorable dining experiences in South Tyrol.

From our first sip to our last bite, the warm hospitality, presentation and flavor were superb. Even better, the menu is affordably priced. For the same experience in the U.S., it would cost us twice as much.

Zur Sonne

Sometimes after an adventured-filled day on the trails, you just want to unwind with a glass of wine…and pizza. Zur Sonne is the perfect place for such an evening.

This tiny family restaurant located on a shop-filled street of Lana makes some of the best Italian pies in the Alps. Be sure to save room for a homemade dessert or two.

1477 Reichhalter

If you cannot decide on South Tyrolean or Italian fare, choose 1477 Reichhalter to savor both. Possessing a simple yet stylish farmhouse feel in a quiet corner of Lana, 1477 Reichhalter is renowned for its high-quality dishes and friendly service.

Dining at 1477 Reichhalter is an intimate experience — almost as if you are eating at the home of your best friend. After our meal, we considered reordering our dishes just to enjoy the delightful flavors all over again. 1477 Reichhalter is definitely a restaurant you will want to return to whenever in South Tyrol.

Mein Beck

Like trekking a mountain trail, satisfying your sweet tooth at a bakery while in South Tyrol is a must. Mein Beck is a bustling neighboorhood bakery and cafe sure to brighten your morning with a wide assortment of heavenly pastries, breads, cakes and other celebrated specialties of South Tyrol.

We enjoyed a huge breakfast spread here while in Lana. If you plan to visit Mein Beck, keep your morning schedule light. The bakery is popular with locals and can be quite busy.

When to Visit Lana

Honestly, a trip to Lana is ideal at any time of year. The abundance of outdoor adventure and sights awaiting you means every season will be astounding.

Snow lovers will revel in winter hikes on Mount Vigiljoch and world-class skiing on the surrounding peaks. Not to mention in the Dolomites, which are just 45 minutes away. If you visit during the holiday season, you can also stroll Lana’s boutique Christmas market. It is as enchanting as they come. You will definitely find a local craft or specialty that captures your heart.

Our most recent trip to Lana was this past autumn. If you time your visit between September and October, you will be rewarded with some of the most colorful scenery in South Tyrol. Furthermore, autumn in Lana allows you to partake in a variety of harvest celebrations such as Törggelen and Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival) as well as the Merano Grape Festival.

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Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

By Kate & Vin 27 Comments

IN A LAND with as many deep-rooted traditions as soaring mountain peaks, it’s no wonder the festive souls of South Tyrol sought to make a beloved autumn custom its very own season.

Touted as South Tyrol’s fifth season, Törggelen is a centuries-old tradition celebrating the harvest’s new wine called “Nuier”, “Suser” or “Sauser”. The tradition involves a hearty hike in the afternoon followed by an even more hearty feast and wine sampling in the evening. Rural taverns or farmhouse inns called “Buschenschank” host the gatherings throughout Eisacktal Valley (Valle Isarco), as well as in other chestnut-friendly corners of South Tyrol.

In this post, we show you why adding this treasured tradition to your fall South Tyrol trip plans is a must. You’ll join us on a Törggelen-themed hike through ancient chestnut groves to a mysterious trio of medieval churches and then dine with us at a farmhouse perched on a mountainside eyeing the Dolomites.

⇒ Ready to embark on your own Törggelen adventure? Jump forward to a list of Törggelen establishments and events.

The Beginnings of Törggelen

Törggelen occurs through much of autumn from mid-September to the start of the Christmas season in mid-November. According to local lore, this is the time when the Wein-Nörggelen, a mischievous band of dwarves descend from the mountains to steal the wine of the harvest.

Chestnuts for Torggelen — In autumn, South Tyroleans gather chestnuts from the mountainsides to create a host of specialties.

The Törggelen tradition is thought to have begun centuries ago in Eisacktal Valley as a private gathering among neighbors. After a successful grape harvest, the local winemaker would invite nearby friends to a jovial evening sampling the new wine.

Now, this is not the kind of wine found on the shelf of your local wine shop. It is wine from freshly-crushed grapes in the early stages of fermentation — cloudy in color and potently sweet in flavor. In fact, the name Törggelen originates from the Latin word for wooden wine press. The Törggelen term “Buschenschank” dates back to the late Middle Ages when a bushy tree branch was placed above farmhouse doorways signaling to guests their kitchen was open.

Törggelen hosts complemented the new wine with autumn delicacies such as fire-roasted chestnuts, as well as speck, knödel dumplings and an assortment of cured sausages. After ample amounts of drinking and eating, the evening typically concluded with dancing and belting out traditional folk songs.

we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

Today, the tradition remains much the same, however, many farmhouse inns no longer only cater to a handful of well-known guests, but instead welcome strangers throughout the two-month-long celebration. These humble farmers thrive on the company and regale guests after the feast with tales of life in rural South Tyrol.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Discover Speckfest – A Mountain-size Celebration Not to Miss in South Tyrol

A Törggelen-Themed Hike to Dreikirchen

Our first Törggelen adventure began in the old world heart of Villanders (Villandro), a thousand-year-old village tucked high into a mountainside of Eiscack Valley. Age-old cobblestones wound through a narrow alley leading us past one of the most inviting entrances to a restaurant we had ever seen.

The Steinbock Manor & Restaurant (Zum Steinbock) resides in a castle wearing centuries of utter romantic ruin. Its stone walls whispered of tales long ago enrapturing us with mystery and intrigue. We made a note to return another time. Dining within would undoubtedly be a noble experience.

Villanders Churches — The Törggelen hike to the Dreikirchen begins with stunning views of the Church of St. Stephan and Church of St. Michael in Villanders.

On the other end of the alley, two church towers greeted us with spires piercing deep into the blue October sky. The masterful medieval stonework of each appeared gilded in gold beneath the warm gleam of the autumn sun.

We circled the Church of St. Stephan and Church of St. Michael encountering a cemetery unlike any other in South Tyrol. The tombs and wrought-iron crosses lie in such a way that the dead always face the rising sun. We noticed lanterns dotting the graves and made plans to visit when we could admire its beauty under candle glow.

Behind the Church of St. Stephan we ascended stone steps up a slope to the Three Churches Trail (Dreikirchenweg). Following the path, marked as no. 4 on signage, we floated above Villanders past quaint farmhouses into a stretch of undulating meadows dappled with giant chestnut and apple trees.

we found the Three Churches enthroned in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom.

We found their swooping canopies and massive trunks weathered by centuries of Alpine wind and sun especially enchanting. Sitting beneath their leafy cover with the sun’s rays sprinkling through was next to divine. The idyllic setting to read a book or simply study the peaks of Dolomites far across the valley before nodding off into a gentle slumber.

Kate Underneath Apple Tree in Val Isarco

Torggelen Hiking Trail — A trail of endless sights. The hike to the Dreikirchen was among the most picturesque we have embarked on in South Tyrol.

Moving on we encountered a pasture hidden by a halo of woodland. Within cows and South Tyrol’s celebrated Haflinger horses grazed together. Upon spotting us the horses galloped abruptly to our feet.

Whether they were anticipating a handout of apples or chestnuts, we did not know. But we were not about to share such delectable treats as they were not ours to give. Disappointed by such stingy hikers they quickly moved on.

After an hour or so of hiking, the path descended into a hardwood forest. When we emerged from the shady cover we came to a paved road. A sign pointed us to continue along the pavement as it curved through the side valley until reaching another road snaking up through a stand of larches.

South Tyrol offers several Törggelen-themed hikes that expose you to the natural charms of the season imbuing a merry spirit well before your first sip of wine.

On the other side, we found the Dreikirchen (Three Churches) enthroned in Gothic form atop a grassy hill just above the valley bottom. The churches reside in the hamlet of Dreikirchen, which sits almost due north of the village of Barbian (Barbiano).

Visiting the Dreikirchen

Mystery still shrouds the Three Churches. No one knows why the builders huddled them together. Nor who the builders were or why they chose such an isolated location.

The oldest, St. Gertrude, was built in 1237. Well-preserved Gothic frescoes and Baroque shrines adorn its interior guiding you to an altar where a statue of St. Gertrude stands between candles below a scene of the Crucifixion.

Wooden Steeples of Dreikirchen — Ripped from the pages of Brothers Grimm? The trio of timbered steeples of the Dreikirchen is unlike any other in South Tyrol.

The second church, St. Nicholas, came shortly after the first was built while the third church, St. Magdalene was erected in 1470. Some believe the churches were established as shrines as they lie near pre-Roman healing springs. Perhaps medieval Christian worshipers sought to replace an ancient pagan sanctuary dedicated to the three goddesses of springs.

We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse dining room wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts.

The Three Churches are not left open, but you are welcome to retrieve the keys kept by the owners of a nearby rustic guesthouse called Gasthof Messnerhof. The establishment also offers traditional fare from their organic farm allowing you to grab a bite to eat before trekking back.

As we were keeping an eye on the clock to make sure we arrived on time for our night of Törggelen, we decided to skip snacking at Gasthof Messnerhof after touring the churches.

We followed the same route on our return to Villanders to save time. Despite our hurry, we still took occasional breaks to consume sips of water and long gulps of the Dolomites across the valley.

An Evening of Törggelen

Our Törggelen feast was reserved at a Buschenschank on the Winkler Hof farm in the hamlet of Sauderer (St. Moritz), just below Villanders. The estate was first mentioned in 1314.

Owned by Luise and Anton Fink, the farm is typical of South Tyrol. It beams with Alpine character from a sun-steeped slope next to the church of St. Mortiz, a mountainside chapel built in 1406.

The Fink family raises everything from dairy cows to pigs to hens and goats, as well as produces wine along with an assortment of berries and vegetables. They also supplement their income by offering guests a “farm stay” in one of three apartments located on the farmstead.

Winklerhof Farm — The farmstead of Winkler Hof delights you with home-made Törggelen flavors as equally rich as its wood-clad stuben.

We were seated in a gorgeous farmhouse dining room wrapped with wood decor as warm as the smiles on our hosts. From the table settings to the touches of Tyrolean folk art gracing the walls, every nook imparted old-world ambiance that transports you to another time.

Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine schnapps.

Our feast began with a bowl of tasty roasted chestnuts, a spread of speck and a glass of new wine from the farm’s Vernatsch grapes. This was followed by savory bowls of pumpkin soup and barley soup.

Then came a delicious dish of tris knödel, which is a speck, cheese and spinach dumpling served together atop Schlutzkrapfen ⁠— a pasta stuffed with spinach and Parmesan. A drizzle of melted butter crowned the heavenly fare. Ending the feast here would have typically been the wise thing to do, but not very South Tyrolean.

An immense platter of smoked sausages, pork and ham atop a bed of sauerkraut soon arrived tipping us from full to stuffed. But when the tray of sweets bounded on our table we somehow mustered the strength to devour every last bite of Krapfen (pastries filled with jam) and chestnut cake.

The rural revelry continued when Mr. Fink joined us at the table in his traditional attire to share a bit of history about Winkler Hof and Törggelen. To our surprise, we discovered the chestnuts we consumed were ‘erotic’ as he put it. Teeming with pheromones that made them the best aphrodisiac this side of the Alps.

Whether he was joking with us or not, we could not tell. The bottomless pitcher of wine throughout the night had done its job.

Torggelen Schnapps — Wine is not the only libation consumed during a Törggelen evening. Mountain pine schnapps is an Alpine-worthy apéritif to bring the dinner to close.

Our evening of Törggelen concluded with a parting gift from Mr. Fink: a shot of mountain pine schnapps. This mystery arrived in a small glass and wore an amber so deep it was almost hypnotic.

We toasted our friends across the table, Antonia and Diego, before splashing the potion down. It was invigorating. Like a bolt of pure Alpine air jolting through you from mouth to feet. Undoubtedly, a proper way to end a grand feast on a mountainside in South Tyrol.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: A Feast for Your Senses – The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

How to Find Törggelen Farmhouses & Taverns

There may be no better time to hike and feast than in autumn. The mountains and valleys are ablaze with dazzling gold and burgundy hues and the briskness in the breeze inspires a hunger only heartiness can satisfy.

Törggelen farmhouses and taverns can be found throughout the chestnut and wine-friendly growing regions of South Tyrol. These include Eisacktal Valley where Törggelen is thought to have originated, as well as along the South Tyrolean Wine Road, Merano and its bouquet of communities and San Genesio (Jenesien), which lies several thousand feet above Bolzano.

Törggelen typically requires booking in advance. Partaking in the custom is quite popular so we suggest contacting establishments more than a month out from your fall visit to South Tyrol.

Consider the following “Buschenschanks” located in Eisacktal Valley:

Villanders

Barbian

Chiusa

Feldthurns

You can find additional Törggelen Buschenschank recommendations for towns such as Brixen and Lajen by visiting the official Eisacktal website.

Additional Törggelen Hikes

While you do not have to endure a hearty hike to partake in a Törggelen feast, we cannot recommend embarking on a fall trek enough. South Tyrol offers several Törggelen-themed hikes that expose you to the natural charms of the season imbuing a merry spirit well before your first sip of wine.

One of the most popular hikes is the “Keschtnweg” (Chestnut Trail), which begins at the Abbey of Novacella in Brixen and runs 30+ miles to Runkelstein Castle in Bolzano. This is a multi-day hike obviously, but you can access it from several villages along to enjoy the trail as much as you see fit.

To discover more Törggelen-themed hikes, visit the official website for South Tyrol. Their Törggelen section list two dozen hikes ripe for South Tyrol’s fifth season!

We’d like to give special thanks to IDM Südtirol for introducing us to the Törggelen tradition!

ADD TÖRGGELEN TO YOUR TRAVEL WISHLIST

Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

By Kate & Vin 35 Comments

“Awe-inspiring.” “Breathtaking.” “Majestic.” All words you may have heard to describe Alpe di Siusi (also well known as Seiser Alm) — Europe’s most dramatic high mountain plateau. But the one you really need to know before visiting is “vast.”

Alpe di Siusi is immense. A landscape of utter wild Alpine abandon. Picture an area even bigger than Manhattan looming thousands of feet above the valley floor of the Dolomites.

With 900 miles of hiking trails, you could spend an entire holiday in South Tyrol exploring the area. That’s why we put together this guide.

⇒ Pressed for time? Download our free Alpe di Siusi hiking guide

In this post, you will discover how to experience the most iconic scenery of Alpe di Siusi — the Sassolungo (Langkofel), Sassopiato (Plattkofel) and Schlern (Sciliar) massifs — in all their glory. We also provide a mountain load of tips such as where to eat and additional sights to consider as you plan your Alpe di Siusi adventure.

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A Hike All Can Enjoy

Hiking Around Schlern — An emblem of South Tyrol, Schlern Mountain with its famous Santner and Euringer peaks steals the show on your hike to Compatsch. The two stony towers are named after the first people to climb them.

Alpe di Siusi is a heart-pounding playground for outdoor enthusiasts of all ages and stripes. The hiking route we highlight winds through the plateau past rustic farms, mountain huts and thickets of evergreens. Striking mountain panoramas never leave your sight.

Each trail we recommend ascends easily making this itinerary ideal for any age and skill level. And regardless of the season of your visit, you can embark on this trek.

We detail the hike from two different starting points and their nearby attractions so you can determine which one appeals to you the most. Select the one that aligns most conveniently with where you’re staying and your interests.

No matter where you choose to begin the hike, the route returns to your starting point. You’ll get to experience the dramatic difference between the mountains from opposite directions. Round trip will take you 4-5 hours.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds)

Where is Alpe di Siusi?

Before we jump into specifics on this hike, let us paint a clear picture of where Alpe di Siusi is located. The name of the plateau can cause some confusion for travelers as it also denotes a broader holiday region in the Dolomites.

Alpe di Siusi Map — Alpe di Siusi is easy to reach. The region is just 40 minutes from Bolzano or Brixen.

The Alpe di Siusi holiday region includes the plateau as well as villages and valleys lying far below to its north and west. Also often associated with the plateau is the holiday region of Val Gardena, which runs more to its east.

As we show below, both holiday regions serve as excellent launching points for hiking Alpe di Siusi. Whether beginning your hike from Val Gardena or Alpe di Siusi, the hiking route we cover is the same. The only difference being your starting and endpoint.

By the way, you do not need to base yourself in either holiday region to enjoy Alpe di Siusi while visiting South Tyrol. You can be on the plateau in only 40-60 minutes by car from Bolzano, Brixen or Merano.

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #1

Mont Seuc Cable Car — The Mont Sëuc Cable Car zips you to the top of the plateau in 10 minutes.

The first hiking option we cover involves setting out from Ortisei (St. Ulrich) in Val Gardena. From the heart of Ortisei, you will take the Mont Sëuc Cable Car (Mont Sëuc means Alpe di Siusi in Ladin). In a matter of minutes, you will be on top of the plateau. From here, you will embark across the plateau to the tiny village of Compatsch (Compaccio).

After departing the cable car station any doubts you may have had about hiking a “pasture” vanish. Few sights anywhere can rival the sky-bound beauty of the Sassolungo Group unfolding before your eyes.

Using the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Reach Alpe di Siusi

Here are the step-by-step directions to take the Mont Sëuc lift:

If arriving in Ortisei by car, you have a couple of parking options to consider. You can park in the underground garage at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station or at the underground “Garage Central” parking lot in the center of Ortisei. From Garage Central it is just a 5-minute walk through town and over a foot/bike bridge to the station. Both parking areas are nicely located if you intend to also explore Ortisei.
Once at the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, purchase a round trip ticket. The current cost is €19,90 per person.
To reach the cable car boarding area, insert the ticket into the turnstile ticket slot to gain access. Then wait for a station staff member to direct you to board an available cable car. Sit back and soak in the views on the way up. To the east, the Seceda massif and alp will gradually reveal itself.

Hiking from Mont Sëuc

Begin your hike by heading left on trail no. 9 towards the Sassolungo Group. The trail will descend through stands of pines until opening into the rolling meadowland.

On your left, you will pass the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the first of many mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi. “Schwaige” “Baita” and “Rifugio” are all used to denote mountain hut. These relaxing Alpine refuges have tended to travelers since the Middle Ages.

When you approach a fork in the trail stay on trail no. 9 to the left which will bring you past the Sporthotel Sonne. Follow trail no. 9 for a good distance enjoying the rugged faces of the Sassolungo Group staring down on you. Eventually, you will come to Hartlweg which intersects the trail. Take a right onto Hartlweg.

When Hartlweg runs into trail no. 6B take a right to visit Malga Sanon if you are ready for a refreshment or a bite to eat. If not, take a left onto 6B.

Trail no. 6B will merge into trail no. 9 for a short distance. You will come to an option to take trail no. 3 to the right, but continue on 9 until you come to the second intersection for trail no. 3. Then take a right onto 3 towards Compatsch.

Mountain huts like **Malga Schgaguler Schwaige** shown here invite your weary legs to rest with a hearty South Tyrolean meal, drink and view you will not forget.

Stay on trail no. 3 until it ends at trail no. 30, which is also known as the Hans & Paula Steger Weg. Named after two South Tyrolean climbing and skiing legends who once called Alpe di Siusi home.

Take a right onto trail no. 30 and follow it for roughly another 20 minutes until reaching Compatsch. The Sciliar mountain from this stretch is at its most stunning.

Once at the village, you can give your legs a rest at the restaurant in the Nordic Ski Center. It offers a more contemporary setting than the rustic mountain huts you encounter, but the menu serves up delicious pasta if that suits your mid-hike appetite.

After you’re done visiting Compatsch, set out to return to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station via the same route. You’ll pass by Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again, which is where we had the best forking meal in South Tyrol. From their terrace, you can devour your final views of Sassolungo before zipping back down to Ortisei on the cable car.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – The Ultimate Guide to Hiking Seceda

Alpe di Siusi Hiking Option #2

If you are interested in spending most of your time in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region, embarking on a hike of Alpe di Siusi itself from Compatsch is an excellent option to choose. Some of South Tyrol’s most alluring villages, churches and castles reside in this holiday region.

To start out from Compatsch, drive 7 miles above the village of Seis. Keep in mind the following:

The road leading towards Alpe di Siusi is closed to incoming traffic from 9 am to 5 pm so be sure to arrive before 9 am. The road is not closed to outgoing traffic so you can leave at any time.
Parking is available on the left of the road in Compatsch near the Alpe di Siusi visitor center in a lot called P2. The cost to park is €17,00. You can avoid paying the parking fee by parking in one of the roadside lots you’ll encounter on the drive up, but then, of course, you’ll extend your hike uphill.
If you happen to arrive after 9 am when the road is closed, all is not lost. Take the Alpe di Siusi Cable Car up from the village of Seis. The cable car cost is €17,00 per person so it pays to arrive before 9 am and park.

Hiking from Compatsch

This hiking option follows the same route as above except instead of hiking to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station, the mid-point for your hike will be the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige before heading back to Compatsch.

You can certainly hike up to the cable car station and enjoy a refreshment and meal there if you wish in their restaurant. But our preference is the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige. Nothing beats their food and views in our opinion.

Here’s the hiking route you will follow from Compatsch. From the parking lot, you will pick up trail no. 30 (Hans & Paula Steger Weg).

Schlern Mountain in Winter — No matter when you visit, spring, summer, fall or winter, the sights on Alpe di Siusi will steal your breath. Guaranteed.

Follow trail no. 30 until it intersects with trail no. 3 where you will take a left towards Saltria. Trail no. 3 will eventually merge into trail no. 9 where you will have the option to go left or right. Be sure to follow trail no. 9 to the left.

Stay on trail no. 9 and then take a right onto trail no. 6B. This trail will slowly curve to the east until coming to Hartlweg. Like above, you can stay on 6B to take a break at the Malga Sanon if you wish or take a right to continue trekking across Alpe di Siusi.

Hartlweg will lead you to trail no. 9 where you will take a left. Follow trail no. 9 all the way to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

The Langkofel Group from Alpe di Siusi — One of our favorite aspects of Alpe di Siusi is that the scenery is always changing as the clouds and sun move across the sky.

After you have enjoyed a hearty meal and glass of South Tyrolean wine or beer, set out for the return hike to Compatsch. It’s worth pointing out that you do not have to initially take trail no. 9 back if you don’t wish. Take a glance at your map and you will see other trails that will eventually bring you to trail no. 30 into Compatsch.

Bonus Hiking Option: Let Curiosity be Your Guide

Reaching the plateau and simply wandering trails as your heart sees fit is an enticing option for free-spirited souls. Many trails are accessible to all and marked as such that you can roam without ever getting lost.

Find a trail that loops if you’re set on trekking Alpe di Siusi without seeing the same sight twice. Just be sure to bring a map from the cable car station so you can estimate how long it will take to reach any given point that interests you.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Val di Funes

Where to Stay in Alpe di Siusi

We recommend staying in the Val Gardena region or the Alpe di Siusi region for a hiking outing on the pasture. Our personal preference is Alpe di Siusi. Staying here places us near other favorite hikes such as the Oachner Höfeweg.

This stunning hiking trail should not be missed. It leads through rolling farmsteads flush with vineyards, orchards and chestnut-riddled forests beneath the peaks of the Dolomites.

Romantik Hotel Turm Poolside — Romantik Hotel Turm offers everything you could want after a long day hiking Alpe di Siusi.

For a resort experience unlike any other, consider the Romantik Hotel Turm. This unique retreat immerses you in beautiful history and art from as far back as the 13th century. You will also be dazzled by the hotel’s sumptuous cuisine and wellness area that guarantees soul-mending relaxation.

Romantik Hotel Turm is nestled in the medieval village of Völs, which sits in the shadow Schlern allowing access to Alpe di Siusi in a matter of minutes. Learn more in our in-depth review.

Additional Tips & Considerations

Make plans to explore Ortisei and the fascinating tradition of woodcarving in Val Gardena before or after hiking Alpe di Siusi.
The Parish Church of St. Ulrich in Ortisei is well worth a visit as well. Built in the late 1700s, the church’s red bulbous dome is easy to spot making it a beacon for history and architecture lovers. Its interior is among the most gorgeous we have ever seen. Precious frescoes, oil paintings and woodcarvings adorn every inch.

The Parish Church of Ortisei holds ornate works of art such as this mesmerizing and larger-than-life woodcarving of St. Ulrich by the famous sculptor Ludwig Moroder.

The Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm (the lift operates until 6 pm from mid-June to mid-October). The station begins operating in mid-May after ski season and closes again in early November before reopening for the ski season typically in December. Mountain weather can impact opening and closing dates so make sure to review the lift schedule.
Want to see the sunset on Alpe di Siusi? You’re in luck. Once per week in the summer the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station runs from 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm to allow evening walks and dinner at their restaurant. Review the night schedule to see if the dates align with your trip to South Tyrol.
If you are planning to hike in Val Gardena for more than one day, save money by purchasing the Val Gardena Card. This card allows unlimited use of specific lifts and cableways. Note: The Val Gardena card does not provide access to lifts based in the Alpe di Siusi holiday region.
If you wish to experience Alpe di Siusi when the meadows are in full bloom with wildflowers, time your visit from mid-June to mid-July.
Hiking isn’t the only way to enjoy Alpe di Siusi. If you’re a biking enthusiast, consider renting a mountain bike or e-bike. BAMBY rental is located right next to the Mont Sëuc Cable Car Station.
If you like the idea of enjoying Alpe di Siusi with a blanket of snow, plan on a visit from November through April.
The mountain huts on Alpe di Siusi are not open year-round. Be sure to review this mountain hut list and schedule prior to planning your hike.
Want to see cows lazily roaming the pastures of Alpe di Siusi? Visit the plateau beginning in mid-July. The cattle typically are driven up in early July and driven back down by mid-September when the food supply has dwindled.
Harness the natural energy of Alpe di Siusi to improve your wellbeing. Be sure to explore the wellness products originating from its meadows. Up to 80 different kinds of grass, herbs and flowers can found in just a handful of hay from Alpe di Siusi. Local companies like Trehs create natural cosmetic and wellness products based on the ancient wisdom passed down through the ages from the mountains of South Tyrol.
If you embark on a hike of Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch, don’t miss a visit to the historic gem of St. Valentin Chapel, which sits below the Schlern massif in Seis. Its steepled-beauty has graced the mountain backdrop since 1244.
Like all the regions of the Dolomites, Alpe di Siusi is shrouded in age-old legends. Witches long ago performed rituals on the plateau. You can embark on a spell-binding hike from Castelrotto that takes you to the famous “Witches’ Benches”.
For additional Alpe di Siusi hikes of various themes, lengths and difficulty, check out the official Alpe di Siusi holiday region website.
For recommended hiking gear and clothing to wear while hiking Alpe di Siusi, access the guide in our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library. Before any hike, pay attention to the weather forecast as mountain weather can change quickly.

St. Valentin Chapel in Seis — The Alpe di Siusi holiday region contains many historic sights worth exploring such as the St. Valentin Chapel shown here.

Have you embarked on your own Alpe di Siusi adventure? If so, let us know in the comments below any additional tips, insights and hikes worth sharing.

SAVE ALPE DI SIUSI TO YOUR TRAVEL BOARD

Treks in the Dolomites – Your Step-by-Step Guide to Val di Funes

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

Deep in the heart of South Tyrol lies a secluded valley where you’ll find yourself seemingly lost in the pages of a fairy tale.

If J.R.R. Tolkien were to drop you a postcard from Middle Earth there’s a good chance it would come from Val di Funes. This breathtaking land in the Dolomites may very well be nature’s greatest masterpiece — a perfect storm of beauty and brawn.

Once you have stared longingly into a picture of the valley with the St. Magdalena (Santa Maddalena) Church amid piercing green hills and the mighty Odle (Geisler) peaks tearing into the southern sky, the sight seals your wanderlust fate. Seeing this mountainous paradise firsthand becomes an obsession.

In this post, we give you the step-by-step guide to visiting the top sights in Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss). You’ll discover how to experience the best views and hike from one attraction to the next while taking in all the Alpine enchantment this blessed valley offers.

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Where is Val di Funes

Tucked between Val Gardena to the south and Val Pusteria to the north, just 45 minutes from Bolzano, you’ll find Val di Funes. Home to people as far back as prehistoric times, the valley captivates at every turn.

From unspoiled forests and fields to rolling pastures stewarded by lone farmsteads and roving livestock, idyllic scenery echoes eternally from one mountainside to the next.

Map of Val di Funes — Val di Funes is just 45 minutes from Bolzano to the southwest and 30 minutes from Brixen to the north.

Val di Funes carves roughly 15 miles through velvet evergreen slopes until abruptly meeting the jaw-dropping thunder of the Dolomites. When you first see the saw-tooth edge of the Odle peaks shredding the heavens, it is jarring.

The severe contrast against the tranquilness of the valley defines the very meaning of awe. Such brooding sights of nature’s might are a rare gift.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Emerald of the Dolomites – Your Guide to Exploring Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds)

What to See in Val di Funes

Val di Funes teems with attractions worth exploring, but the two most celebrated are the Church of St. Magdalena and the Church of St. Johann. These two storied holy sites are rather small, but leave a mountain-size impression on travelers.

Looking at the Odle Peaks — Awe-inspiring in every sense. The Odle peaks storm up nearly 10,000 feet into the heavens.

Like the north-facing Odle peaks, they are symbolic of Val di Funes. The much-loved scene of their steeples among the mountains may make them the most photographed churches in South Tyrol.

The itinerary we detail below will take 2-3 hours if covering it primarily by foot. If you do not want to walk that much, you can drive near to either church.

Both can be enjoyed in as little as an hour. However, we recommend planning on at least spending a morning or afternoon exploring the area.

The Church of St. Magdalena

The Church of St. Magdalena beams from a hill in a tiny village of the same name located on the far end of the valley. The church itself sits atop a grassy hill where it is said pagan rituals took place long ago.

The exact date the church was built is not known, but it was first mentioned in historical documents in 1394. According to legend, the church was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene after a mirage of her appeared in a nearby brook. As you may recall, she is one of the most beloved saints as she embodies the power of forgiveness and was the first to see Jesus resurrected.

Inside, the church design and decor is classically baroque. Ornate gold and marble accents and remarkable paintings flourish from ceiling to floor. Above the altar is a painting of Mary Magdalene followed by a statue of her at the foot of the cross.

If you are planning a visit to South Tyrol in the fall consider attending Speckfest, which occurs the first weekend of October each year and is held just below the church. Discover more about this autumn culinary celebration by reading about our recent fun-filled afternoon at Speckfest.

St. Magdalena Church Interior — The Baroque interior of the Church of St. Magdalena displays precious works of religious art.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Seeing the Church of St. Magdalena up close is certainly a rewarding experience, but admiring it against the backdrop of the Dolomites is a sight you’ll never forget. Here’s how to capture the iconic panorama as seen in our feature image:

From the Via Geisler roadway into the village of St. Magdalena take a left at the blue sign directing you to the village center. Straight ahead of you will be a public parking lot. We recommend parking here and hiking along the road to the panorama point and church. The road leading directly to the church is closed to automobiles.
Take left onto Bergweg and then a right on Trebich. Note: Street names may not be visible so be sure to follow the signs for the church (Kirche / Chiesa).
Follow Trebich to the left and then Magdalenaweg, which veers to the right. Stay on Magdalena as it winds gradually upward.
You’ll eventually see the church to your right. But instead of taking the right continue straight to reach a higher elevation.
You will then come to a farmstead on the road where you will take a right. Follow the road up to the second bend. Here, you will find a short trail called St. Magdalena Panoramaweg cutting across the slope offering the best views.

After thoroughly drinking in the views, we suggest visiting the church. It is open daily.

The Church of St. Johann

Only 40 minutes away by foot from the Church of St. Magdalena is the picturesque Church of St. Johann. This little stone church with its famous onion-bulbed steeple is actually more akin to a chapel, but the sight of it is equally stunning. It is also often referred to as St. John of Nepomuk in Ranui or San Giovanni.

The Church of St. Johann came to grace a meadow at the foot of the Odle massif in 1744. A Baroque gem inside and out, the front facade showcases decorative pillars painted on the ends with a depiction of St. John of Nepomuk near the peak of the chapel.

Front of St. Johann Church in Val di Funes — Since 1744, The Church of St. Johann has charmed travelers visiting Val di Funes.

The life of St. John of Nepomuk is not as well known as St. Mary Magdalene. Considered a martyr, St. John was sentenced to death by drowning in 1393 by King Wenceslaus IV of Bohemia. He was gagged and thrown into the Vltava River from the Charles Bridge in Prague.

Within the chapel, a series of paintings on the sides of the altar tells the story of St. John. The altar itself is grandly ornate with bedazzling marble and gold in the classic Baroque style like the Church of St. Magdalena. Curiously, a painting shows St. John holding out his tongue. It is apparently meant to symbolize his defiance of the king, which ultimately led to his torture and murder.

Cow in Val di Funes — Grazing beneath the Dolomites. Cows lazily roam all around St. Johann.

TIPS FOR THE BEST VIEWS: Since the Church of St. Johann sits in the middle of a wide-open field, numerous points will wow you as you meander to its doorstep. Here’s how we recommend visiting the chapel to soak it all in:

From the Church of St. Magdalena walk the path located outside the cemetery downhill towards the village center. Along this path, you will come to one of the most epic wayside shrine scenes in South Tyrol.
The path eventually becomes Kircheweg. Sweeping views of various farmsteads along this route make it a walk to remember.
Follow Kircheweg all the way into the village and then take a left onto Bergweg. Before you cross onto Bergweg pause to enjoy the ripples of a small waterfall on your left.
Stay on Bergweg and keep to the right when you come to a fork. This will lead you to the Via Geisler roadway where you will walk along the side for roughly 10 minutes until reaching a trail crossing a pasture to The Church of St. Johann.
Before venturing to the church, you’ll come across a stand where you can purchase fresh jams, syrups and more from the nearby farm. We always recommend supporting these family-owned farms when you get the chance. There’s nothing better than the regional specialties direct from the farm.
The largest stony spire of the Odle massif rises up beyond the church. It is known as Sass Rigais. This peak taught mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner how to master the climb.

The Church of St. Johann is available to visitors, but it is not always open. You can request access by contacting the Ranuihof Manor located on the edge of the church’s meadow.

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How to Reach Val di Funes

Thanks to its relatively central location in South Tyrol, adding a trip to Val di Funes as a part of your itinerary is easy no matter where you base yourself.

If you are arriving by car, the valley can be directly accessed from the A22 Autostrade. The exit is just north of Chiusa (Klausen). Reaching St. Magdalena village on the far end of Val di Funes is a pleasant drive. It takes less than 20 minutes once you exit the main highway.

House in Val di Funes — What a view. The balconies in Val di Funes dazzle with brightly colored geraniums from end-to-end.

Those using public transportation while in South Tyrol can still easily embark on an adventure in the valley. A bus departs from Chiusa and Brixen multiple times each day. To explore public transportation options, visit the official Val di Funes website.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

Additional Tips & Considerations for Visiting Val di Funes

Consider taking a break between hikes by having lunch in St. Magdalena. A couple of establishments offering traditional South Tyrolean hospitality with views include Gasthof Fermeda and Waldschenke.
Visit the Puez-Odle Nature Park Visitor Center in the heart of St. Magdalena to discover other attractions and history of the area.
Make a trip to Val di Funes a full-day outing by trekking the Adolf Munkel trail. This 4+ hour hike will bring you up close to the Odle mountain group.
If you want to see Val di Funes alive with Alpine wildflowers the best time to visit is the summer season.
To enjoy the valley with the least number of tourists, we suggest visiting Val di Funes in May or October. Another option is to explore Val di Funes in the winter when it becomes a wonderland for snow lovers.
Like many mountain vistas, sunrise and sunset will give you the most spectacular photo opportunities.
Visit Val di Funes during Speckfest to partake in the annual celebration of South Tyrol’s traditional mountain-smoked ham.
Before arriving in St. Magdalena you’ll pass through the village of San Pietro in the heart of Val di Funes. Consider visiting another remarkable church known as the “Duomo della Valle” (Cathedral in the Valley). Its onion-bulbed steeple soars an impressive 200+ feet.

Have you been to Val di Funes? Let us know in the comments in the below if there are any additional tips or sights you would recommend.

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Lago di Braies (Without the Crowds): Your Guide to the Emerald of Italy

By Kate & Vin 19 Comments

Lago di Braies (also known as Pragser Wildsee) boasts every heavenly Alpine quality on Earth. Here is your guide to enjoying it at its most pristine.

When you picture your idea of paradise, what do you see? If you’re a mountain lover like us, chances are a scene strikingly similar to the sight of Lago di Braies floats through your mind.

An untouched lake so still and peaceful it mirrors the landscape? Check. Snow-capped mountain peaks looming on the horizon? Check. Towering evergreens foresting the slopes? Check. Throngs of people taking selfies? Check.

Say what?

Okay, we admit that last item is hardly anyone’s notion of paradise. Nevertheless, it is a reality of visiting places such as Lago di Braies. Its unearthly beauty acts as a magnet for everyone visiting South Tyrol.

However, if you plan your trip right, coping with masses of people dotting the landscape does not have to be your experience.

Pressed for time? Download our free Lago di Braies guide

About South Tyrol’s Most Popular Lake

Tucked between sheer mountain cliffs, Lago di Braies’ shimmering spirit ripples over 76+ acres (picture 30 rugby fields). It beams from nearly 5,000 feet above sea level and has a maximum depth of 118 feet.

South Tyrol Holiday Planning — Hiking the 2-mile loop around Lago di Braies ensures you encounter the most breathtaking scenery of the lake.

What lies beneath the surface? Trout and the stuff of legends.

According to ancient folklore, Lago di Braies is a magical gateway to the underground kingdom of Fanes. The kingdom of Fanes appears in many South Tyrolean sagas and has historical roots going back 2,500+ years.

Another legend of Lago di Braies, albeit much more recent, tells of 10 tons of gold lying at the bottom of the lake. When World War II ended, Nazis supposedly sank the treasure.

A 2-mile hiking trail circles Lago di Braies providing some of the most spectacular Alpine lake scenery in the Dolomites.

This legend may have some plausibility. During the war, Nazis used the stately Hotel Lake Braies adorning the northern end of the lake as a base. Built in 1899, the hotel still operates today. In 1945, the hotel played a key role in liberating 139 concentration camp survivors including several family members of Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg — the leader of the most famous failed assassination attempt of Adolf Hitler. You can read more about the liberation at the hand of U.S. forces here.

Springs deep underground marry a labyrinth of mountain streams to continuously feed Braies. Those choosing to brave its icy waters will endure a frosty 57°F (14°C) if they are lucky.

The immense Seekofel summit inside the Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park of Puster Valley (also known as Val Pusteria) serves as the lake’s most famous mountain backdrop.

Populated by pines, peaks and pastures and lone farmhouses, Puster Valley wraps you in the rustic charms of old Tyrol. The valley sits next to Austria on the east side of South Tyrol. It runs to the west carving into the heart of the Dolomites.

You could spend your entire time in South Tyrol exploring Puster Valley. Lago di Braies is just one of its many splendors. Consider basing yourself near Brunico or Dobbacio or spoil yourself at Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort as we did.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Treks in the Dolomites – Your Guide to the Epic Sights of Alpe di Siusi

Exploring Around Lago di Braies

Plenty of people visit Lago di Braies without ever stepping beyond the northern shore. They only saunter to the lakefront and snap away on their phones or cameras until satisfied they have the next Instagram hit. What a mistake. A 2-mile hiking trail circles Lago di Braies providing some of the most spectacular Alpine lake scenery in the Dolomites.

Making your way around the lake takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours. Begin on the western shore side by following the Seeweg / Giro del Lago signposts. Here, the trail rolls through stands of pines with the glimmering water never leaving your side.

The path is smooth enough to allow for a stroller or even a walker. You’ll come across protruding boulders discarded by the mountainside ages ago. They offer the perfect place to take a seat and watch any boats gently rowing about beneath the stone walls of Apostoli — a mountain across the lake that storms up 6,500 feet from the water’s edge.

After hiking around Lago di Braies, you may just want to spend more time lost in the luster of this Alpine jewel.

Eventually, the trail will wind to the east placing you at the foot of Seekofel. This is near the half-way point with the hotel directly opposite where you began. Towards the shore stretches a pebble-strewn beach. If you’re feeling like a dip, this is as good a place as any to become one with Braies.

Continuing on, you’ll come across one of many boulder-riddled gullies tumbling from the mountain summits. These look like bone-dry canals made of gravel. When the snow-melt washes over them each spring it must be a dramatic sight to witness.

Monte Nero looms above the western shore of Lago di Braies.

The trail soon turns toward the north leading you along the eastern flank of Lago di Braies. This stretch of the hike ascends nicely offering the most awe-inspiring views in our opinion. From several points, you can admire the dome-like mountain of Monte Nero that anchors the lake on the west. It’s worth noting that this leg of the trail holds timbered steps making it impossible to navigate with a stroller or walker.

Soon, the path swoops down to where Lago di Braies squeezes into a marshy sliver at its northernmost point. Rounding this point, the trail carries you past the boathouse back to the hotel front.

Boats on Lago di Braies — The mirror-like stillness of Lago di Braies makes it a rowboat lover’s dream.

Spend any time at all on Instagram, and you’ll see that the Lago di Braies boathouse is the most popular photo stop on the lake. We get it. There’s something clearly magical about the boats seemingly levitating over the crystal clear water.

But if you’re set on avoiding Instagram models during your visit, steer clear of here. You can usually spot them by their silly choice of attire: sundresses and heels. No one ventures into an Alpine environment in such outfits unless they’re hunting for social media likes.

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The Best Time to Visit Lago di Braies

The early bird gets the worm…and Lago di Braies much less crowded. The lake’s favorable position off the main mountain roadway makes it an attractive destination for tour groups. If you arrive early in the morning, many group tour types tend to still be roaming the lands of snore. Let them sleep.

They can miss the rising sun breaking the peaks and plunging like a waterfall into a still sea of jade. You, on the other hand, will take in a sight that touches your heart forever.

We suggest arriving early and departing early. If you are visiting during the summer (high season), plan on 6 AM. You’ll encounter photographers, but minimal tourists. Those visiting in so-called offseasons can arrive a bit later between 7:00-8:00 AM.

Additional Sights, Activities & Considerations

After hiking around the lake, you may just want to spend more time lost in the luster of this Alpine jewel of Italy. Here are some additional sights and activities to consider:

Chapel Lago di Braies – This storybook chapel gracing the western shoreline was built in 1904. It was designed by Otto Schmid, the same architect responsible for the hotel. A horse stable next to the chapel only adds more beauty to its idyllic pose.

Lake Braies Chapel — Like quaint and idyllic? The Lago di Braies chapel is well worth visiting during your time at the lake.

Rent a Boat – Few things are more romantic than rowing out into the middle of Lago di Braies. From late spring through early fall, the boathouse rents out vintage wooden boats from 10 AM to 5 PM. You can select from 1/2 hour to a full hour. The cost is €18 and €30 respectively. If you want to rent a boat for a private photoshoot you can do so from 7:30 to 9.00 AM for €150.

Horseback Riding – Imagine galloping along the beach atop a magnificent steed. The Steinwandterhof farmhouse and stable allows you to do just that.

Land a Trout – If you’re angling for some angling, embark on a fishing excursion on Lago di Braies. Guests of Hotel Lake Braies can obtain free fishing permits and rent gear.

Sip & Dine Amid Emerald Glory – After adventuring about the lake you may work up a thirst and appetite. The Hotel Lake Braies offers a splendid terrace to enjoy a cup of coffee, a meal, a glass of delectable South Tyrolean wine or a sweet South Tyrolean original called Hugo. The Tiroler Stube cafeteria is open from 10 AM to 6 PM. The restaurant is open from 12 PM to 5 PM.

Pick up a Souvenir – A boutique souvenir shop is attached to the hotel allowing you to bring a kitschy piece of Lago di Braies home with you. We’re guilty.

Summer or Winter? – How about spring or fall instead. The colors you encounter during the months of spring and fall make the lake dazzle even more in our opinion. If you want to avoid seeing Lago di Braies as a sheet of ice be sure to visit before late November or after April.

Dress appropriately – The hike around Lago di Braies is not treacherous, but we recommend wearing proper hiking or walking footwear. Don’t forget to check the forecast prior to visiting so you can determine if you need rain gear or a jacket.

Throw a Picnic – At the midway point around the lake loop, you will find picnic tables and bathrooms. Take advantage of both if you need a rest. The remainder of the hike is a bit more difficult than the first leg.

Explore More of Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park – Several trails veer of the loop allowing you to trek further into the park. Many of these trails are considerably more difficult so plan accordingly. The lake is also the starting point of the Dolomites’ famous Alta Via no. 1 (Alpine Path no. 1), which leads you through the mountains to as far as Belluno in the Veneto region of Italy.

Visit Brunico Afterwards – After consuming so much natural beauty consider venturing onto Brunico (Bruneck in German) for a dose of history. In Brunico, you can stroll cobblestone streets and marvel at churches and castles, as well as meander through a beautiful war cemetery unlike any other in the world. The town is just a half-hour north of the lake by car or bus.

Brunico, South Tyrol — The picturesque town of Brunico makes for a charming stop after visiting Lago di Braies.

How to Get to Lago di Braies

Lago di Braies is one of the easier gems in the Dolomites to reach. If you’re renting a car as we typically recommend, plenty of parking is available just outside the front of the hotel. The cost is €5. From any of the lots, it’s a short walk to the lake.

If you’re based near Bolzano, the lake is just over 1.5 hours to the northeast. From Brixen, just over an hour. The drive is considerably easy relative to other mountain destinations in South Tyrol.

Have you been to Lago di Braies? If so, please comment below and add any tips or considerations we may have missed.

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St. Valentin Chapel – A Hilltop Jewel in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 22 Comments

At the foot of the jarring Schlern massif lies one of the most beautiful churches of the Dolomites. St. Valentin Chapel is blessed with a mountain backdrop so immediate and immense it makes one’s heart flutter with awe.

The chapel’s existence was first documented in 1244; however, the exact year it came to grace a hilltop below the Siusi Alps is not known. But in a way, one could say the chapel saw its first breath of life on February 14th in 269 AD. The day a Christian priest, known as Valentine, met his end at the edge of a sword.

His crime? Violating an edict issued by Roman Emperor Claudius Gothicus that prohibited the marriage of young couples. The emperor believed unmarried soldiers made better warriors. His warped mind thought if soldiers had wives or children it would weigh too much on them in battle.

In 496, Pope Gelasius I inaugurated the Feast of Saint Valentine to be celebrated annually on February 14 in veneration of the Christian martyr. Hundreds of years later the chapel of St. Valentin was built to honor the saint. Fast forward hundreds of years more, and throngs of heart-shaped Hallmark cards with poetic effusions to love blanket marketplace shelves the world over each February.

That’s all fine and well, but we’ll take the reverant sight of St. Valentin Chapel over a dozen roses any day.

Here’s more about this historic hilltop jewel and how to enjoy it with your own eyes while adventuring in the Dolomites.

At the Gate of the Dolomites

Perched on a grassy knoll high above the idyllic village of Seis (Siusi), St. Valentin Chapel is a must-see for those spending time exploring the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), Europe’s largest Alpine prairie, which surges another 2,000 feet into the sky from where the chapel sits.

Its time-worn spire crowned with a crimson dome is impossible to miss no matter if you come into the village from the north or south.

The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

Besides its picturesque pose below the Siusi Alp, St. Valentin Chapel is celebrated for its remarkable frescoes inside and on its outer walls. They date back to the 14th and 15th century.

St. Valentin Chapel Fresco — A fresco on the outer wall of St. Valentin depicts a scene of the Three Kings with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background.

Schlern Massif — A looming presence. The view of the Schlern massif from St. Valentin Chapel.

We found one of the frescoes on the outer wall facing the village particularly intriguing as it shows the Three Kings greeting the infant Jesus with the peaks of the Dolomites in the background. The frescoes on this wall bask in the late afternoon sunlight creating shadows that dance hypnotically with the centuries-old scenery.

After admiring the medieval artwork, we took a seat at a nearby bench to let the South Tyrolean sun and antiquity wash over us. While sitting we spotted a castle ruin far away clinging to the mountainside. We later learned it was the crumbling fortress of Hauenstein Castle.

A relic from the 12th century, it was once home to Oswald Von Wolkenstein, a famed medieval minnesinger that followed in the footsteps of the Jim Morrison of medieval times — Walther von der Vogelweide.

For Whom the Bell Tolls

St. Valentin Chapel and Schlern Massif — Legend has it, a bell within the St. Valentin Chapel wards off spells from witches.

The Dolomites are a land littered with ancient legends…some as jolting as the peaks themselves. It came as no surprise then when we discovered the little chapel of St. Valentin bears a bull-size legend of its own.

For thousands of years, Schlern mountain has towered amid tales of witches. The tumultuous thunderstorms raging down from the craggy massif are said to be the spawn of spells cast upon the land. It’s only natural then that long ago — when explanations of the unknown spun readily from superstitions — the locals sought to protect themselves from the terrors of black magic.

Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Thanks to a wanderslusting bull, St. Valentin Chapel came to stand as more than a place of worship, but also as a guardian against the dark. An age-old legend tells of a bull roaming the sleepy hills of the chapel making a fortuitous discovery: a bell buried in the hillside. The bell, now known as the “The Bull of San Valentino” was hung in the spire. The witches of Schlern came to fear the bell as when it tolls it breaks their spell of storms.

Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, we did not encounter any stormy weather during our visit thus did not get to hear the bell toll. But we did come across a cat creeping around the chapel. Clearly, a Schlern witch waiting to wreak havoc on wretched souls.

Cat at St. Valentin Chapel — A Witch of Sciliar or just a cat? Those eyes say it all.

⇒ READ MORE: Hiking Where Witches Once Roamed in South Tyrol

How to Reach St. Valentin Chapel

A variety of trails can lead you to St. Valentin Chapel including one from the town of Castelrotto that takes about an hour to walk. However, we recommend visiting the chapel either before or after spending a day trekking the Alpe di Siusi.

Near a parking lot located in the heart of Seis is a brick-paved trail that winds up the hillside toward the chapel. After a 5-minute walk, you’ll come across another path carved under a row of trees that brings you to the chapel steps. To find the initial trail in Seis, simply follow the signposts.

Once on the trail, you cannot miss the chapel unless you’re entirely consumed by the enormity of the Siusi Alp storming upward from the forested slopes. Seeing the iconic Schlern massif from this vantage point is at its most breathtaking.

Unfortunately, touring inside the chapel is not possible without making a special appointment. But the outside of St. Valentin with its sweeping views is so breathtaking it does not really matter.

After soaking in the sights, hop back on the paved brick and walk uphill a few more minutes to a farmstead. Here, you can watch South Tyrol’s famous Haflinger horses gracefully graze under a mature grove of apple trees.

A South Tyrolean beauty — the famous Haflinger horse — grazes below an apple tree under the guard of the St. Valentin Chapel.

If you’re visiting the chapel in the afternoon as we did, we recommend grabbing dinner in Seis. The village is easy to walk and you’ll find a number of establishments to pick from.

We ate at the Restaurant Pizzeria Zum Woscht and delighted in pizza accompanied by a bottle Lagrein from Cantina Tramin. Afterward, we suggest visiting the parish church of Sciliar located on the edge of the village center. While not as scenic as St. Valentin Chapel, it possesses a peaceful Alpine cemetery that is well worth strolling through.