South Tyrol Castles & Fortresses

Castle Tirol: Ancient Might of the Alps

Castle Tirol has loomed over South Tyrol for nearly 1,000 years. Here’s why you should see this majestic work of ancient might while visiting the region.

WHAT IS IT ABOUT CASTLES? Whether in a perpetual state of crumble or masterfully preserved to reveal life in the Middle Ages, they endlessly fascinate us. Their haunting beauty inspires awe as much as the legends born within.

With 800 castles rising throughout the mountains and valleys of South Tyrol, it’s hard to nail down one that impresses the most. But there is one who never fails to captivate us no matter how many times we encounter it: Castle Tirol (also known as “Tyrol Castle”, “Schloss Tirol” in German and “Castel Tirolo” in Italian).

Its imposing seat 2,000 feet above the valley floor demands your attention from even miles away. Enthroned in the 1100s by the Counts of Vinschgau, who later took title as the Counts of Tyrol, Castel Tirol’s storied walls hold some of the most important historical relics and artwork in South Tyrol. In fact, the faded frescoes of its chapel include the oldest known painting of the Red Eagle — South Tyrol’s revered coat of arms.

The Spell of Castle Tirol

A unique hallmark of Castle Tirol is that depending on the temperament of the mountains or the hour of the season, the castle seemingly transforms before your eyes. It’s as if the fortress casts a spell of eternal enchantment on all who look upon its walls.

Castle Tirol’s ever-changing persona, from hopelessly romantic to dreadfully tyrannical, is perhaps why we and so many others find this historic haunt endlessly alluring. For us, no other castle in South Tyrol conjures the same kind of magic as Castle Tirol.

No matter when you visit South Tyrol, you can experience this magic for yourself. In any season or hour, you will witness how Castle Tirol looms with decisive command. The sight of the fortress will leave no doubt in your mind as to why it named an entire region and its people.

Speaking of its name, some historians indicate the word “Tirol / Tyrol” can be traced back to when the Roman Empire occupied the land. “Teriolis” was the given name of a Roman military outpost in northern Tyrol. Others speculate, in the Dark Ages, Germanic tribes named the rocky outcropping Castle Tirol sits on “Tyr” in honor of a god they worshipped.

The Views from Castle Tirol

As much as Castle Tirol mesmerizes from the outside its grand views are equally enchanting. The sweeping panorama awaiting visitors illustrates why the fortress was founded at such a lofty height.

Situated to the north of Merano, Castle Tirol peers deep into the valley basin that stretches southward to Bolzano. On its western flank, the castle watches over the Vinschgau Valley, which zig zags toward Switzerland.

Invading armies from either direction would have been spotted well in advance of any threat. Enemies coming from the north would have had to cross the rugged Ötztal Alps — likely meeting the same fate as Ötzi the Iceman. And any marauders marching from the east would need to find a way to magically leap the Sarntal Alps.

Within Castle Tirol

Inside the castle lies a treasure of archaeological finds including religious and pagan figures encircling the marble portals of the castle’s chapel. These are sculpted in Romanesque-style from the 12th century.

The meaning of these carved marvels is still not entirely clear. Nevertheless, they are fascinating to study. Their ornate detail speaks to the superb craftsmanship of long ago.

Walking through the chapel door feels like you are stepping into a room a thousand years wide. Faded religious frescoes dating to the 12th century colorize the gray stone walls.

Many are still hardly scarred by the ravages of time. They continue beautifying the chapel making one wonder how stunning the walls must have looked centuries ago.

South Tyrol Coat of Arms — Remarkably well-preserved frescoes nearly a thousand years old still adorn Castle Tirol including the oldest known depiction of the Red Eagle — South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

Above the chapel floor of Castle Tirol looms a larger than life Crucifixion scene. Crafted in1330, it is one of the most impressive works of medieval art we have ever seem.

Steps in the chapel lead to the upper chamber where you can admire the detail achieved by the artist at eye level. You will see firsthand why these sculptures are a priceless treasure of South Tyrol.

The castle is also home to the South Tyrolean Museum of History and Culture. The exhibits cover multiple levels in the castle and provide an intriguing overview of the history of South Tyrol from its earliest beginnings to the modern era.

The exhibit signs and summaries are in German and Italian, but visitors can checkout an audio guide that is in English. The museum tour lasts about 50 minutes.

Hiking to Castle Tirol

The only way to reach Castle Tirol is on foot. Trust us, this is a good thing. The hike to its gates is unforgettable. If views of the castle and vineyards riddled around it do not steal your breath away then the Texel mountain group in the distance certainly will.

Falknerweg Castle Tirol — The Falknerweg leads you to Castle Tirol.

When arriving at the area by car, we suggest parking in one of two public lots located in Dorf Tirol. From there, cross the street walking uphill along the sidewalk until coming to a sign designating the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This beautiful path takes you past hotels, restaurants and vineyards eventually winding along the edge of a deep ravine where you can admire the picturesque Brunnenburg Castle — once home to the famous poet Ezra Pound.

Before rounding a corner to the castle you will pass through a 260-foot stone tunnel built in the 17th century. The entire walk takes 20-30 minutes depending on how much you pause to snap pictures or simply savor the historical and natural beauty all around.

TIP: The castle can also be reached from Merano by walking the Tappeiner Promenade. This route takes 2-3 hours but is what we consider the most enchanting walk in Italy. It is our favorite way to reach Castle Tirol.

When to Visit Castle Tirol

Morning clouds lift off the mountainside revealing Castle Tirol.

Castle Tirol is open to the public from mid-March to early-December. Visit the castle’s official website to confirm dates and hours. Admission fees are € 7 per adult. Children and senior citizens receive discounted rates.

If you visit the castle during one of the weekends in December when it is hosting its traditional Christmas market, you can enjoy the castle at no charge. Seeing it at this time of year is especially charming.

Autumn is also a special time to visit as a wine-stand off the Falknerweg offers the season’s new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grape vines while gazing at the castle and beyond. Sounds a touch romantic doesn’t it? Afterward, treat yourself to a hearty South Tyrolean meal at Biergarten am Schlossweg — a panoramic beer garden nearby.

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A Mountain Enthroned: Trekking to Trostburg Castle

By Kate & Vin 23 Comments

Every trip to South Tyrol should include a wild excursion into its storied past. We share why the mountain-enthroned Trostburg Castle is one historic haunt not to miss.

IN A LAND teeming with more castles than anywhere else in Europe, it’s impossible not to wonder what the world was like when ruled from a throne. Especially when sweat begins beading on your forehead only 5 minutes into a grueling climb to one of South Tyrol’s most imposing mountainside fortresses.

The stone shackled road leading to Trostburg Castle snakes up from the village of Ponte Gardena (Waidbruck) in the lower Valle Isarco (Eisack Valley). It’s only a 15-minute hike, but the trudge to this mighty haunt of medieval prowess gives you real appreciation for how people ages ago managed buns of steel without cheesy workout videos.

By the time you reach the entrance of Trostburg Castle, you nearly expect to be greeted by a knight named Sir Gluteus Maximus. Instead, what does greet you is pure awe. The utter grandness of the fortress up close is as breathtaking as the hike that leads you here.

Of Wildflowers & Cobblestones

Looking up from the trailhead in Ponte Gardena, it’s tempting to become transfixed on reaching Trostburg Castle as quickly as possible. This is a mistake. The hike to the fortress is a gem all its own.

The old castle road inspiring you onward gifts hikers numerous swoon-worthy sights. You wander pass Alpine meadows painted by the season, as well as through shade-friendly forests dotted with benches offering a chance for a contemplative rest.

Trostburg Castle commands from a height of more than 2,000 ft.

At the bends of the sloping road, sweeping vistas materialize before you like theater curtains parting for a show. Pausing to inhale the views of the roaring Isarco River below are all you need to press on.

Of course, if you are a photography enthusiast, these viewpoints are where you can do much more than take a brief break. The number of opportunities to capture Trostburg Castle framed in romance is countless. In fact, you may find this trek one of the most rewarding short adventures in South Tyrol.

Farm lovers are equally thrilled with the journey to Trostburg. Lying above the village of Ponte Gardena, directly off the castle road, is a charming farmstead that poetically illustrates the meaning of quaint.

Here, you can make some new friends of the hoofed kind while whistling by. The panorama these animals enjoy might even make you wonder if being a jackass in South Tyrol isn’t such a bad thing.

As you continue hiking up the road, the imposing mystery of Trostburg Castle becomes less mysterious. A sign posted on the roadside tells the story of the stronghold. It is written in German, Italian and English.

The Tale of Mountainside Empire

The famous medieval poet, Oswald Von Wolkenstein, once called Trostburg home. Is he winking in this portrait? No, legend has it his right eye was lost during a childhood archery accident.

Trostburg Castle began towering over the Valle Isarco in the 12th century. Its building blocks were born from the boulders left behind by ancient glaciers and rivers once ravaging the land.

Exactly how long it took medieval masons to chisel these stones into castle-ready form, lift to lofty heights and mortar them into eternal rest on the mountain is not known.

Trostburg Castle exchanged overlords multiple times over the centuries. However, its most famous resident was Oswald von Wolkenstein — a beloved medieval poet and composer who penned odes about travel, sex and God long before Led Zeppelin did.

Trostburg was purportedly Oswald’s childhood home. Why he left such a majestic residence is beyond us, but Oswald eventually lodged his poetic soul at the Abbey of Novacella, an ancient monastery in Brixen that is today one of the oldest wineries in the world.

The castle served as the ancestral seat of the Wolkenstein family for nearly 600 years. Prior to their possession, Trostburg belonged to many prominent nobles including the Lords of Velturno, the Counts of Tyrol and the Lords of Villanders.

Roaming the Castle Grounds

Upon reaching Trostburg Castle, we suggest walking about its grounds to see the fortress in all its grandeur. Admiring the castle from multiple vantage points allows you to peer into the past.

The aged stonework tells of the castle’s modifications, additions and fortifications over the centuries. Portions of Trostburg’s walls appear gray like an overcast sky while others seem burned by sun with tints of gold and red.

Trostburg Castle sprawls over a rugged swath of the mountainside.

Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architectural contours and details are visible with every step as you wander by the stronghold itself and the other structures forging the castle complex. Indeed, the only sights you may encounter betraying the castle’s glorious past are the occasional tourist snapping a selfie or an automobile racing on a road in the valley far below.

Behind the Walls of Trostburg Castle

In classic castle fashion, entering Trostburg Castle demands walking through a massive arched door that makes you wonder if only the hand of God can open it.

Once inside the castle, you can marvel at faded frescoes gracing its courtyard walls. They appear almost graffitti-like in their randomness and subject matter.

Walking through the castle’s historic rooms and halls is where you can truly get lost in the craftsmanship of centuries past. They display artifacts and works of art spanning nearly a millennia.

The castle chapel of St. Anthony is curiously small and depicts moody religious scenes on its ceiling that are intriguing to ponder.

If you are a hunter, plan to linger in the castle’s large guest chamber. Here, murals showcasing hunting motifs impart clues to what a medieval hunt must have been like.

If you love all things medieval, Trostburg Castle is a MUST SEE while in South Tyrol.

Especially impressive in the castle is the wood clad walls and ceilings. These rustic adornments display elaborate details that compel you to strain your neck in study. The rich stucco art in the grand Knight’s Hall leaves you wishing royalty was in your blood.

Ornate and pastoral furnishings dance together effortlessly among the walls of Trostburg Castle.

A castle artifact we found particularly mind-blowing was the immense medieval wine press located in the castle tower. When we first saw the wine press we thought it to be a crude torture concoction meant to contort wretched souls in the most medieval way.

Alas, we were relieved to learn its only victims were plucked grapes. Torturing fruit to give up its sweetness for South Tyrolean wine is fine by us. The wine press is the largest in South Tyrol and employs a 36-foot long wood pressing level. This mass of lumber projects like a missile across the castle tower.

Trostburg Castle holds the largest medieval wine press in South Tyrol.

In addition to being home to a number of nobles over the centuries, Trostburg Castle is also the official home to the South Tyrolean Institute of Castles (Südtiroler Burgeninstitut). A section of the castle is dedicated to hosting the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles. Here, you can study remarkable creations of true-to-scale models of 86 South Tyrolean castles.

How to Visit Trostburg Castle

Fitting in a visit to Trostburg Castle is easy to do on your way into or out of Val Gardena. It’s impossible to miss looming above the A22 Autostrada.

If you are driving from Bolzano or Brixen, take the Val Gardena exit and head to Ponte Gardena. You will find plenty of public parking available near the castle trailhead in the heart of the village.

However, if you’re venturing into the Dolomites for a winter excursion, you will have to skip Trostburg. The castle is only open from the end of March to the end of October.

From your parking spot, follow signs pointing to Trostburg Castle. Take trail no. 1 as show in the picture below.

Admission to Trostburg Castle is very reasonable: €8 for adults, €5 for kids from 6 to 14 years old and free for youngsters 6 years old and under. But the smart way to visit the castle, as well as a host of other sights in South Tyrol, is to obtain the Museumobil card. The card is €15-€34 depending on the duration of your stay and age. It gives you free access to 90+ museums and historical sights.

If you have worked up a thirst or appetite Trostburg Castle, consider making a 15-minute drive to the artist village of Chiusa (Klausen) located across the Isarco River. Tucked within this postcard-pretty town is one of South Tyrol’s finest craft breweries and taverns: Gassl Bräu.

Here, you can enjoy a hearty South Tyrolean meal or Italian fare if you prefer. We chose both and they each made our mouths sing with praise.

Recharge your batteries with a visit to **Gassl Bräu**.

But no visit to Gassl Bräu’s is complete without drinking a pint of Gassl Bräu’s beer — a fine, frosty reflection of South Tyrol’s centuries-old brewing tradition. Before ordering one too many, though, be sure to walk into the tavern’s brewery. It’s a slightly surreal experience. A glass floor lays beneath your feet revealing a rushing stream with trout darting back and forth.

Whether you dine or simply savor a refreshment, the street-side tables at Gassl Bräu’s offer the idyllic medieval setting to plan a hike to another historic wonder. Allow us to suggest the Sabiona Monastery.

This striking destination clings to a clifftop high above the village. See our post for details on how to get there. #MakeAdventureHappen 😍

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Sabiona Monastery: Hiking the Crags of History

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

The first time your eyes lock on the Sabiona Monastery set atop a jigsaw of crags and spurs high above the artists’ village of Chiusa, your fate is sealed. Embarking on a lofty adventure to the “Holy Mountain of South Tyrol” becomes a must.

THE SABIONA MONASTERY (also known as Säben Abbey) is impossible to miss while cruising over the Brenner Pass between Brixen and Bolzano. Like so many sights along the ancient Roman passage, it looms with undeniable intrigue.

So much so that when we first spotted the historic landmark from the roadway it practically steered us to the next available exit. Letting this grand medieval mystery teasing the heavens remain unknown to us was not an option.

We found a public parking lot conveniently located on the edge of the town — almost directly underneath the steep rock face rising to the foot of the monastery. Gazing up we were at a loss on how to reach the site.

Fortunately, the tourist information center in Chiusa (also known as Klausen) was not far into town. A staff member kindly revealed the mountain top mystery to us and now we get to reveal it to you.

About the Sabiona Monastery

According to legend, Saint Cassian of Imola founded the monastery around the year 350 A.D. However, the rocky outcropping upon which it sits was historically significant even centuries before then.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy.

Archaeological studies show evidence of dwellings on the “Acropolis of Tyrol” dating back to the age of Ötzi the Iceman. Ancient Romans also used the mountain likely as a military outpost. The rocky perch overlooking the narrowest point of Brenner Pass would have allowed Augustus, Caesar and the like to swiftly close southern Europe from northern threats.

Findings from excavations over the years indicate houses of Christian worship were present by the 5th century. A century later the Roman Catholic Church installed a bishop on Sabiona resulting in the spread of Christianity throughout the region. For this reason, faithful South Tyroleans consider it their “Holy Mountain”.

Sabiona Monastery in South Tyrol — For centuries Sabiona Monastery has been a pilgramage for the faithful.

By the 1400s, additional churches and fortifications were built on the mountain creating much of the Gothic castle-like appearance of the monastery that is visible today. We were surprised to discover that since the late 1600s, it has been home to nuns under the Order of St. Benedict.

Even though the large parts of the monastery are not accessible to tourists due to Benedictine rules (nuns are not allowed to interact with guests), visitors can still trek to see the historic churches of the monastery including the Church of the Holy Cross, whose founding was more than 1,400 years ago.

How to Reach the Sabiona Monastery

The steep staircase to Sabiona begins on the western edge of Chiusa. This is a blessing. You will likely arrive in the town on the eastern end meaning you get to experience the fairy tale setting of Chiusa.

The town is tucked tightly between the mountainside and the Isarco River, which may at first seem a bit of an odd location for a thriving community. But when viewed through a historical lens it makes perfect sense. In the Middle Ages and before, Chiusa would have been an ideal defensive position not to mention a treasure trove of coin collecting as any travelers wishing to pass through had to pay a toll.

As the “City of Artists”, Chiusa offers much more to discover beyond the Sabiona Monastery.

As you stroll over its cobbles amid the rush of the river, you will swiftly surmise Chiusa is one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy. The very definition of quaint and cozy kissed with a vibrant zest. The colorful pastels gracing many of the medieval facades will make you think you wandered onto a canvas.

Reaching the Sabiona stairs carries you directly through Chiusa’s old-world heart over a narrow street known as Via Città Alta. It is dotted by numerous shops, cafes and taverns prime for discovering the artisanal talents of local South Tyroleans.

The town prides itself as the “City of Artists” with an artful legacy that includes visits by greats such as Albrecht Dürer — one of the most celebrated painters of the Renaissance. In fact, he was so enamored by Chiusa he used the village as the backdrop for his famous copper-plate engraving of the Greek goddess Nemesis in 1502.

Climb the Stairway to Heaven

By the following signs for Sabiona, you will find the staircase on a sleepy side alley to the right of the main street. Along this stretch, you will encounter a fascinating looking building known as the Mineralienecke (Mineral Store).

It appears as if from a Game of Thrones set. The building’s outer wall is clad with an assortment of medieval tools making it an iconic place to snap a photo.

Mineralienecke in Chiusa — Choose your weapon? The Mineralienecke building is a one-of-kind curisoity in Chiusa.

We could not figure out how to visit the inside, but perhaps just as well. If the outside is any indication of what lies within, poor souls who enter may stumble upon a torture chamber.

Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

The stairs begin around the corner under a large crucifix. Upon starting the climb, pause for a moment to consider the hallowed ground you are walking on. The stone beneath your feet has led pilgrims to Sabiona for centuries. The hike you are now embarking on is one of the oldest pilgrimages in Europe.

The stairs offer a steep ascent that shortly leads you past Branzoll Castle, a privately owned fortress towering above vineyards. The path then branches off allowing you to choose either the Sabiona Promenade — a rugged walk through the mountain’s forested slopes — or a gentler path called Via Cruxis that is decorated with the Stations of the Cross.

We chose to take the hiking trail up and return to Chiusa along the historic route. This option does make your Sabiona adventure a bit longer and certainly more sweat-inducing.

From here, the hike up takes around 30 minutes and rewards you with multiple points to enjoy sweeping views of Chiusa and the Isarco Valley. The trail is not dangerous, but if you are not accustomed to hiking we recommend taking the Via Cruxis path up and down.

Experience Vivid Stillness

The first sight to visit once arriving at the sprawling monastery grounds is its oldest structure — the Church of the Holy Cross. It sits on the highest point of the mountain.

The origins of the church date back to the 500s when it was the cathedral for Bishop Ingenuinus who lies in eternal rest inside.

Walking into the Church of the Holy Cross is like traversing the tides of time.

Bishop Ingenuinus or “Little Kneeling One” as his name suggests, was likely bishop of Sabiona from 577 until his death in 605. He is viewed as a patron saint of mountain people.

The outside of the church is captivating with a 40 foot painted cross gracing its outer apse. But it is the inside that rivets the imagination — especially if you can visit when sunlight is pouring through the windows.

In the 17th century, an unnamed artist painted striking frescoes throughout the interior. Many of these vivid biblical scenes evoke the feeling of being within a grand marbled hall.

The church’s elaborate crucifix from the 15th century is a wonder to look upon.

In addition to the fantastical paintings, the church exhibits the carvings of Leonhard von Brixen — a sculptor and painter from the 15th century. His moving crucifix high in the apse is a historic gem of religious realism.

After absorbing the treasures of the church, we suggest sliding into a pew to allow the inspiring stillness of this space wash over you. Whether Sabiona is sacred to you or not, you will encounter the power born from the centuries of quiet contemplation held within its walls.

Wander the Mountain Top

Beyond visiting the Church of the Holy Cross, you can also walk around the complex admiring the age-old courtyard and tower, another small chapel, as well as other beautiful works of religious art set about the grounds.

If you want to take in more splendid panoramas while atop the mountain, hop on a trail that darts to the east of the monastery. You will be able to peer deep into the horizon like a Roman soldier scanning for a sign of the Gauls and Goths.

Once you have thoroughly worked up a thirst and appetite from all of the exploring and soulful reflection, take the Via Cruxis route back down to Chiusa. Besides the fact you are now going downhill, you will find this path easier as it is in better shape and a gentler grade.

The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

In addition to the Stations of the Cross, an impressive castled wall will be your companion much of the way. It encircles the monastery grounds until the hill steepens into a terraced vineyard right beneath the octagonal church known as Liebfrauenkirche.

Peace among the vines. The Liebfrauenkirche church stands over row upon row of grapevines that tumble down the mountainside.

The Liebfrauenkirche church was added to the Sabiona Monastery in the 1650s. It is also open for visiting. Inside, you can study Baroque artwork of the Virgin Mary from several notable artists. While we did not have an opportunity to see it, a baptismal fountain dating to the 5th century is inside as well.

Explore the Charms of Chiusa

Once back in town we suggest spending the remainder of your day exploring Chiusa. If you’re not in the mood for a bite to eat yet, pay a visit to the boutiques you passed along the Via Città Alta. From browsing the wood carvings of Val Gardena to the paintings of local artists and more, you will undoubtedly discover a keepsake or gift for a loved one.

A Woodcarver in Chiusa — If you time your visit right to a shop in Chiusa, you may catch an artist in the midst of crafting their latest vision.

Additional sights you will find of interest is the Chiesa di Sant’Andrea near the town center. This picturesque church by the river was first mentioned in 1208.

After your visit, cross the nearby bridge and meander along the riverfront. The views of Chiusa from here may just ignite your inner artist.

Chiusa River Promenade — Romance ripples along the rivery shores of Chuisa.

For a deeper dive into the world of art, consider visiting the Museum of Chiusa. It holds the Treasure of Loreto, a priceless collection of religious objects and paintings from Spanish and Italian artists of the 16th and 17th century.

To appease your hunger and thirst immediately after visiting the monastery, we recommend venturing to Gassl Bräu. This craft brewery and tavern is situated just steps away from the staircase to Sabiona.

Gassl Bräu offers an idyllic indoor or outdoor dining setting and delicious fare that will suit the staunchest Tyrolean and the pickiest Italian. If you’re a beer enthusiast, be sure to enjoy a pint or two of Gassl Bräu’s beer, but also wander into the brewery. It is quite possibly the only one in the world with a trout stream running beneath the floor.

When to Visit the Sabiona Monastery

No matter the time of year you visit South Tyrol you can add a hike to the Sabiona Monastery to your trip plans. The site is open all year. If you go in the winter months, consider bringing a set of hiking poles and obviously the appropriate footwear.

The churches are open for visitation from 8 AM to 5 PM. It’s worth noting that if a door is locked it is likely Sabiona’s nuns are cleaning the interior. Simply wander to a different church and return later to see if it is unlocked.

Castel Katzenzungen: Keeper of the World’s Oldest Vine

By Kate & Vin 11 Comments

It’s not every day you meet a royal lady several hundred years old. But one such endearing elder thrives far below a castle in the village of Prissiano in South Tyrol (Alto Adige).

DEEP IN THE FOOTHILLS bounding between Merano and Bolzano lies one of the world’s greatest living treasures: the Versoaln vine of Castel Katzenzungen. This rare natural gem is likely the oldest and largest grapevine in the world.

Affectionately known as the “Old Lady” by the caretaker and owner of the castle, Veronika Egger Pobitzer, the vine according to viticulturists is 350+ years-old. The only known grapevine in the world of similar age is found in nearby Slovenia.

However, legend speaks of the Versoaln grapevine being even much older. It is said the Count of Schlandersperg planted the vine beneath his castle in 1379 — making her more than 600 years old. Whatever is the truth, the Old Lady is a wonder to behold when visiting South Tyrol.

Meeting the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen

The Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen enthrones herself almost 200 feet below the earth where her roots enjoy the spoils of the soil all to themselves. She eventually surfaces along an old stone wall at the foot of the castle’s hill.

From there, the Old Lady’s gnarled trunk curls into a wide smile as two main branches fan out a river of foliage. We found her wrinkled grin far more enchanting than any ever unfurled by the stroke of an artist’s brush.

But as pretty as her smile is, it’s the Old Lady’s verdant veil that steals your breath. Her leafy canopy shrouds the hillside — covering nearly 3,800 sq. ft. Atop the castle’s stone arch bridge, it appears as a velvety cloak kissed with green and gold. When the sun lances her leaves she almost shimmers in the light.

Looking down on her one can’t help but be in awe of her tenacious spirit. The Old Lady has braved centuries of war, famine and fire to still dazzle the eyes today.

The Versoaln vine displays a grand canopy below Castel Katzenzungen.

She rests her branches on a sprawling chestnut pergola several feet above the ground. When we first set foot under her canopy it was like walking into a hidden world.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct.

The Old Lady enveloped us in a labyrinth of lushness. Her leaf-riddled arms seemed to pull us down the hill. Clearly, she is a curious soul. Wanting to meet all who enter her realm face to face.

While we studied the trunk of the Old Lady, Veronika shared that the Versoaln grape variety is ancient, exceedingly rare and almost went extinct. Its name pre-dates Ancient Rome and likely refers to how the canopy of vines was secured to trellises by rope. Fortunately, viticulturists from South Tyrol have been able to birth new vines from the Old Lady ensuring the variety’s future.

Vesoaln produces compact clusters of translucent medium-sized grapes. The Old Lady is still quite fruitful yielding enough grapes each year to produce 300-500 bottles of wine.

Veronika noted the castle estate does not actually produce the wine or care for the vine. The grapes are vinified at the Laimburg Research Center — a South Tyrolean agriculture institute located near the wine village of Tramin.

Versoaln vine — A beauty for the ages from above and below, the Old Lady still produces up to 900 lbs of grapes each year.

Tending to the health of the Old Lady is handled by the botanical experts of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff in Merano. In addition to protecting the vine, the Gardens’ promote her as a culturally significant part of South Tyrol’s 3,000-year-old winegrowing heritage.

Despite their efforts to safeguard the vine, how long the Old Lady will be with us is not known. Unfortunately, she has been afflicted with a slow-moving wood disease called Esca, which deprives her of water. To combat this menace, portions of the vine must be removed where Esca appears each year.

Touring Castel Katzenzungen

After giving our best wishes to the Old Lady and bidding her farewell, Veronika led us across the stone arch bridge for a tour of Castel Katzenzungen. This box-shaped castle is unlike any other we have encountered in South Tyrol.

First mentioned in 1244, the castle has been held by several noble families in South Tyrol over the centuries. While its name amusingly translates to “cat’s tongue”, the name actually arises from the original owner: Henricus de Cazenzunge.

From Sir Cazenzunge, the castle passed to the Lords of Fink and the Lords of Schlandersberg, as well as the Counts of Thun and Fuchs. In 1548, Castel Katzenzungen came into the hands of Lords of Breisach, who transformed it into its current Renaissance style.

Inside, Veronika pointed out architectural clues on the original stone staircase hinting a tower may have graced the castle at one point in time. She shared that for nearly 200 years Castel Katzenzungen was among the most prestigious residences in South Tyrol thanks to the wealth of the Breisach family. When their rule ended, the castle fell into decay.

The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the world's oldest grapevine.

It remained largely in ruin until 1978 when Veronika’s father-in-law, Josef Pobitzer, purchased the castle. Josef then passed the castle to his son, Ernst, who beautifully restored Castel Katzenzungen to its original character and former glory.

Today, the Pobitzer family operates the castle as a one-of-a-kind wedding and corporate event venue. Between its three floors, Castel Katzenzungen can host anywhere from a small group of 10 up to 450 guests.

Medieval weaponry adorns the great halls of the castle.

Veronika led us through each floor highlighting fascinating historic details of the castle. The ground floor now holds lavish banquet rooms and a wine bar, but during medieval times it was actually the castle’s stable. Why? Residents of the castle kept livestock at the lowest level so the animals’ body heat would assist warming the upper floors.

The first floor holds a large hall for live music and dancing. The hall’s stone floor is only around 20 years old, but masterfully resembles the original including its dark red color, which long ago was dyed red with animal blood.

Castel Katzenzungen Stube — Wood paneling from the 16th century lines the walls and ceilings of the castle’s lounge rooms.

Additional rooms on the first floor include elegant stubes wrapped in warm wood panels from the 16th century. This rustic feature was almost lost to history. Poor farmers staying in the castle during its period of decay covered the paneling to make the rooms smaller thus easier to heat. The gorgeous woodwork was revealed during the castle’s restoration.

Our favorite room of the castle was the medieval kitchen. Its walls run black —forever scarred by woodfires lit over the centuries to smoke speck. Dining in the kitchen under candlelight would undoubtedly transport you to another time.

Longing for enchantment? It is inescapable in the kitchen of Castel Katzenzungen.

The second floor features additional banquet rooms for larger gatherings. In the future, the Pobitzer family plans to use part of the floor to also showcase unique artwork, rocks, gemstones, minerals and a collection of historic arms from Josef Pobitzer.

Perhaps the most peculiar part of the second floor is the medieval bathrooms. Stone seats jut out from the exterior castle wall with an opening that allowed residents to relieve themselves high above the grounds. These of course were located on the sides of the castle — not above the front gate. Whether an unlucky peasant ever received these “gifts” from the heavens above we will never know.

Tasting One of the World’s Rarest Wines

We ended our visit to Castel Katzenzungen in the castle’s wine bar with a tasting of the Versoaln wine. The wine bar shares the old world charm of the castle making it the perfect setting to sip the delightful fruit of the Old Lady.

Veronika kindly poured us each a glass and touched on the special attributes of Versoaln. In the glass, the wine sparkled with a yellowish-green hue and possessed subtle notes of green apple and exotic fruits on the nose.

In the mouth, it was surprisingly delicious. A summertime pleaser. The Versoaln wine was light and fruity with a fun touch of tart on the finish. We had to bring a bottle of the Old Lady home with us. Her story is too remarkable not to share.

If you want to sweeten your lips with the Old Lady yourself, the only way to do so is by visiting Castel Katzenzungen. Due to the small production volume of the wine, bottles are only sold at the wine bar.

So how much is a bottle of one of the rarest wines in the world? Surprisingly affordable. For only € 35 you can regale the tale and flavor of the Old Lady of Castel Katzenzungen with your family and friends.

How to Visit the Old Lady & Castel Katzenzungen

If you are a castle or wine lover, you will want to add Castel Katzenzungen and Prissiano to your South Tyrol trip plans. In fact, Prissiano is known as the “village of castles” since it is the historic home to an abundance of regal residences.

Throughout the year, Castel Katzenzungen hosts various cultural and culinary events in support of the local community. If you cannot visit during an event, a castle tour and organized tasting can be arranged for 10 or more.

An annual autumn event we have our heart set on attending someday is a torchlight hike between three castles of Prissiano which includes Castel Katzenzungen. This festive outing is a part of the Keschtnriggl (Chestnut Festival).

How about a wedding in a chapel followed by a celebration at a castle? The historic St. Martin Church sits directly across from Castel Katzenzungen.

Of course, an even better option for you to consider is hosting a smashing gala at Castel Katzenzungen. What could be more romantic than a wedding or anniversary party at a castle amid the mountains?! If you do book such a celebration, we kindly request an invite!

To explore scheduling a visit or more at Castel Katzenzungen, connect with Veronika via the castle’s official website.

The nearby town of Lana makes a convenient base for exploring the region. You can be in Prissiano in a matter of minutes by car or bus or you can wander from sight to sight along the numerous hiking trails crisscrossing the hills and valleys. See our guide to visiting and staying in Lana for more information.

We would like to give special thanks to Veronika for taking time out of her busy day to introduce us to the wonders of the Old Lady and Castel Katzenzungen!

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Castel Katzenzungen: Home to the World's Oldest Grapevine

Enthroned in Romance: Visiting the Epic Castel Rametz

By Kate & Vin 19 Comments

Romantically enthroned atop a vine-drenched hill beneath summits ever lanced by snow, the historic wine estate of Castel Rametz steals your heart first then your lips.

IF A VISIT TO MERANO is on your South Tyrol travel wish list, do your history-loving soul a favor and plan to visit Castel Rametz. This wonder from the 13th century embodies the magic that happens when Alpine and Mediterranean climates conspire with medieval tradition.

Perched above Merano in the luxuriant district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz was etched on our must-see list ever since first admiring its poetic pose from the mountainside of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

When we discovered the estate hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit. The chance to turn several shades of merry before even setting foot in the traditional Christmas market of Merano was too enticing to pass up.

A Hillside Haunt Steeped in History

While Castel Rametz has seen rulers come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful owner to its throne. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of wine soon followed.

Antique photo of Castel Rametz — Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate. These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”. Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol.

Courting Christmas Cheer

We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of man’s best friend.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lied beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its hallowed stones.

Castel Rametz Mercatino — The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with exquisite holiday dazzle. Classy decor and a roaring fire made it a sanctuary for the season. Looking around, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

The old-world ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

A stand in the courtyard offered traditional delicacies to delight in while enjoying the smokey crackle of logs aflame. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to browse the Christmas market within the castle.

Inside, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar — The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is a marvel to browse.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The old-world character of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

Amid the glow of flickering flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow. In a nearby stone nook, a carefully carved nativity scene caught our eye. We studied its graceful beauty beneath lights casting the deep blue hues of a winter’s night sky.

Gift of the Vines – Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We could have remained enveloped in the ambiance of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wines that makes us want to uncork one. Embarking on a wine tasting next in Castel Rametz’s enoteca seemed wildly appropriate as our next stop.

We climbed the cellar stairs parking ourselves on two seats at the wine tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz — The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to enjoy a remarkable tasting.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Whether you're a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to uncork at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website.

A wayside shrine in the vineyards of Castel Rametz — The guardian of Castel Rametz watches vigilantly from the foot of the castle’s shrine.

Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also enjoy a meal here.

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Brunnenburg Castle: Enchantment Set in Stone

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

HOW DO YOU DEFEND A CASTLE? If you are a Tyrolean, you build another beneath it. For almost 800 years, Brunnenburg Castle (also known as Castel Fontana) has stood like a stone shield to the most prominent castle in northern Italy — Castle Tirol.

In 1250, the Counts of Tyrol commissioned the fortress as a defensive outpost. It was erected on a glacial crag downslope from Castle Tirol providing watchmen a focused eye deep into the valley openings of Merano and Vinschgau.

Despite Brunnenburg’s position below Castle Tirol, both in royal command and mountain clinging elevation, this warden of the north is not any less impressive. Its ivy-mantled tower bears stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

The castle isolated on its own is enough to strike fear into an invading army. But seeing it paired with the mother of all castles looming above must have been a sight that sent road-weary raiders racing back to their homelands. Sacking one castle is hard enough. Two? Forget about it.

Sanctuary for a Troubled Poet

Brunnenburg Castle standing guard over the village of Lagundo

Today, instead of inspiring fear, Brunnenburg is more likely to inspire a poem. And in fact, it has. The castle was once home to the literary heavyweight, Erza Pound. After his release from a mental institution in 1958, Pound joined his daughter and grandchildren at Brunnenburg.

Brunnenburg's ivy-mantled towers bear stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

Erza Pound Portrait — Erza Pound, master of poetic prose. A comb? Not so much.

He spent his time tending to the castle grounds and gardens while continuing to pen prose for The Cantos — an epic poem that is comprised of 116 sections known as a “canto”. Given its length and often abstract musicality, The Cantos is viewed by many as a chaotic piece of work. Perhaps the genius of a fragmented mind that like the vines scaling Brunnenburg can only be adored in their entirety.

Pound’s daughter purchased the castle with her spouse 10 years prior to his arrival. Together, they saved Brunnenburg from a second bout of ruin. The first occurring hundreds of years earlier and lasting until 1903 when a wealthy German named Karl Schwickert bought the castle.

Schwickert thoroughly renovated Brunnenburg fashioning the castle into a more romantic form that woos visitors to this day. Yet for all its trappings of fancy, the castle could not escape tragedy. Schwickert’s wife suspiciously fell to her death from one of the balconies in 1904. He remained in the castle until his death in 1925.

Brunnenburg Castle displays an assortment of fascinating historical artifacts and folk art from South Tyro

As Brunnenburg sat empty for more than 20 years, tales of hauntings arose as they tend to in soulless dwellings. Whether Pound ever encountered a ghost is not known. But by the reading of some of his poetry, one could say his mind was never far from hauntings of its own.

⇒ READ MORE: Castle Tirol – Ancient Might of the Alps

A Throne Amid the Vines

Brunnenburg Castle Vines — If only these age-old vines could tell tales.

Fortunately, you do not have to possess a mind wired for poetry or a heart pumping royal blood to stroll through the halls and terraces of Brunnenburg. Visiting the castle is a pleasant walk downhill from the village of Dorf Tirol along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path).

By the way, this is the same path you take to visit Castle Tirol. Several points along the journey give you sweeping views of both castles with the snow-kissed peaks of the Texel mountain group photobombing it all in the background.

Brunnenburg is most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn's paintbrush is most alive with vibrant color.

As you walk the path, you’ll notice a deep ravine dividing the two castles. Don’t worry. You don’t need to latch to a zip line to visit both. Look for a signpost directing to a path off-shooting to Brunnenburg. This winding treasure descends through terraced vineyards, orchards and patches of old growth forest. Be careful as you walk here. The fairytale scenery may just have you whistling an ode to a fair maiden or prince.

Another more adventurous way to reach the castle is by hiking up the mountainside from the Algunder Waalweg or Tappeiner Promenade. Despite being quite a bit more grueling, these two paths are our favorite way to reach Brunnenburg. When the castle’s crenelated walls appear seemingly out of nowhere above a steep vineyard, it is a sight that wins your heart as much as the seductive juice from the vines running up to its gate.

Reaching Brunnenburg by trekking the Tappeiner Promenade from the heart of Merano will make the most enchanting walk in Italy even more enthralling.

To visit the castle from either path, you will eventually depart the trails and walk on a road called Gnaidweg or Via Gnaid. This road will lead you to a rugged path known as Brunnenburgsteig. It leads you up through a forest along an irrigation channel flanked by a vineyard on your left and an orchard on your right. The passage through the forest is rather steep, but not dangerous.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

Visiting Brunnenburg Castle

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — Nothing else quite like Brunnenburg in autumn. The castle vines decorate the walls in the magnificent color of the season.

We have admired Brunnenburg Castle in spring, autumn and winter. Each season imparts its own beauty to the castle.

But we have found it the most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn’s paintbrush is most alive. Hiking along the Brunnenburgsteig then is like opening gift basket of aromas.

Beyond visiting the castle for a dose of medieval whimsy, it can also whisk you on a cultural odyssey. Brunnenburg is home to the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum and Erza Pound Memorial Center. The museum displays age-old equipment that speaks to the traditional methods of South Tyrolean winemakers and farmers once used to cultivate a season’s harvest.

While visiting the museum, take time to stand toe-to-toe with a life-size “Saltner”. These protectors of vineyards long ago wore wild-looking garb to ward of birds and thieves. By the looks of his outfit, this the kind of job Vin would have loved!

In addition to the museum, you can appreciate a collection of historical folk art and a variety of domesticated farm animals trotting outside the castle including goats, sheep, pigs, chickens and geese. Grazing in such a heavenly place makes being a farm animal in South Tyrol look rather posh.

When to Visit Brunnenburg Castle

Brunnenburg Castle is open for visitors from early April through October. Doors open at 10:00 am and close at 5 pm from Sunday-Thursday.

For those driving in South Tyrol, we recommend parking in the center of Dorf Tirol and walking to the castle from the village. Given its close proximity, you will want to also visit Castel Tirol either before or after Brunnenburg.

If you wander through Brunnenburg and walk away with some lovely prose, be sure to add it in the comments below. You may find yourself a poet and not know it. 🙂

A Halo of Ruin – Exploring the Castles of Eppan

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

Three castles, one hike? Every castle hunter should be so lucky. That was our first thought after discovering a halo of castles forming a stunning hike called “Three Castles Walk” in Eppan / Appiano, South Tyrol.

We had just arrived at Weingut Donà for a multi-day romantic adventure along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. The Hocheppan Castle perched high above our villa apartment caught our eye immediately. How could it not? It loomed from a rocky ledge along a sheer mountain wall. From where we stood far below, this 12th-century stronghold looked to be a marvel of the most medieval kind.

Over the Hills and Far Away

We considered setting out on the Three Castles Walk from Weingut Donà, but opted to drive up the mountain a bit to a nearby village called Missiano. Starting from here gave us the best chance of visiting all three castles. Plus, from the parking lot, we could follow well-marked signs pointing the way up to our first castle stop.

On a steep hill above the parking lot sat an enticing looking church. We made a mental note to visit it if we had time after consuming the three castles. South Tyrol can be joyfully exhausting for curious souls like us. It teems with such intriguing sights making it a land where one could explore endlessly.

A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

We began the Three Castles Walk along a paved road, but were soon enveloped by vineyards as we ascended the foothills of Mondelo mountain range. Hocheppan Castle teased us from afar. But each step offered us an ever-widening view of the valley below.

Jagged peaks of the Dolomites soared from the horizon beyond Bolzano. The infamous Witches Mountain (Sciliar / Schlern) cut into the sky like a gravestone just above the molten gold of leaves still clinging to the vines. It was a sight of pure South Tyrolean splendor.

All Along the Watchtower

Eventually, the vineyards became woodland and we found ourselves in a shroud of trees. The path steepened in the forest, but we came across several benches to catch our breath. We were about to turn a final corner to Hocheppan Castle when we happened to glance behind us. A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

Hocheppan Castle Chalk Tower — The 12th-century watchtower of Hocheppan Castle.

Veering off the main path, we hopped through the woods until finding another trail to the tower. Within 5 minutes we were at the foot of a sign reading “Kreideturm” (Chalk Tower). We darted up to the hill crest where the tower stood. Its appearance was rather austere. The tower looked like a poor man’s skyscraper. We discovered it was erected in the late 12th century as a watchtower for Hocheppan Castle. The king’s guard would ignite a chalk fire at the top of the tower to signal incoming danger.

We were not able to find a way into the tower so we moved on after thoroughly exploring the area. Walking through the forest back to the castle path, we came across a ghostly white face staring at us between the trees. We stood frozen. The face moved. Two horns flashed. Then the figure turned revealing a body much like a deer except it wasn’t. We watched with fascination as two chamois lightly floated over the forest floor seemingly without a care.

Chamois in the woods — Ghosts in the forest. Encounters with chamois while hiking to Hocheppan. Can you spot the second one?

At the Gate of Hocheppan

Twenty minutes later we finally came to the crumbling walls of Hocheppan Castle. Below us was a sweeping view that cemented why this fortress was built at this height. The castle itself is a remarkable ruin. Both a romantic and fierce sight at the same time. A tall bergfried looms from the castle’s heart, a medieval architectural relic that is rare in the Alps.

Once the mightiest stronghold in South Tyrol, Hocheppan came to crown the mountain around the year 1130. It sits at more than 2,000 feet and was the ancestral seat of the Counts of Eppan — sworn enemies to the Counts of Tyrol to the north. Given the name of the region you can guess who ultimately won.

Since the castle was closed for the season we were not able to wander whatever was left of its once kingly halls. Nor were we able to admire its famous chapel, which contains priceless ancient frescoes that paint a vivid picture of life during the Middle Ages.

Even though abandoned for more than 500 years, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been.

As we were alone at the castle, we sat silently on a bench admiring its form against the autumn sky. But we were not as alone as we thought. A cat crept up to our feet. She purred loudly nuzzling against our legs…clearly longing to be held. Who were we to argue? After coddling the cuddly furball, we set her free. She led us to the other side of the castle. No doubt its throne belonged to her as she was not in any way lost.

Castle Hocheppan / Appiano — Upon our arrival at Hocheppan Castle we were greeted warmly by the queen.

Hocheppan Castle Cat — As all castle visits must end, we bid farewell to the queen per the royal custom of South Tyrol.

To Boymont & Beyond

A sign on the path pointed us toward the second castle on our hike: Boymont. The trail took us down on a rocky ravine that we feared meant a steep climb at some point. Sure enough. Stairs built along the sheer cliff edge scaled the other side of the ravine. We sweated our way up the steps. The trail then snaked up a bit further before dropping us off at the door of Boymont Castle.

Boymont Castle is another ruin from centuries past. Its stone facade is quite different from Hocheppan. Boymont Castle wears a more reddish hue rather than gray and its decorative windows, with their arches and stone pillars, speak to an early Gothic style.

The Counts of Eppan built Boymont Castle in the 13th century. But they were not the first to reside on this castle hill. Archaeologists have found remnants from prehistoric times.

Boymont was not of military importance — serving as a luxurious residential manor instead. This is quite evident by its uncommon medieval form. Even though abandoned for more than 500 years after an arsonist set fire, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been. We peeked at the castle’s courtyard through an iron gate. It was magnificent. Definitely a place we will be returning to enjoy a South Tyrolean gem at its wine tavern.

Boymont Castle Windows — Admiring the early Gothic style windows of Boymont Castle.

We found the castle’s windows particularly fascinating. Peering through them long ago must have been exhilarating. Despite the fortress being in ruin, it was easy to picture its storybook past.

The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

After exploring all four corners of Boymont, we soaked in the panorama from the mountain’s edge. Steeples and tiled roofs colored the valley floor between sweeping swaths of vineyards and orchards. The sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. The third castle on the walk tempted us from some far off crag, but we saved conquering Castel Korb for another day. Being caught in the dark in a land haunted by legends was not how either one of us sought to spend the night. Besides we knew there was a bottle of wine waiting for us at Weingut Donà.

Once back at the villa apartment, we cleaned up and enjoyed a couple of glasses of Vernatsch before venturing to Bolzano for a feast at The Laurin Restaurant. Dining at a venue named after a royal legend seemed like the only appropriate way to end a day among regal ruins.

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

The best time to embark on the Three Castles Walk is obviously when the castles are open. However, we found having the trails and ruins to ourselves during the off-season especially memorable. Surprisingly, we lingered longer around each castle longer than we may if they had been open. The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

If you are visiting South Tyrol during summer and much of spring or fall you will be able to experience everything Hocheppan Castle and Boymont Castle offer. Hocheppan is open from early April to early November. It can be visited daily from 10 am to 6 pm excluding Wednesdays. Tours are available in English.

Boymont Castle is typically open from late March to early November. Hours are from 11 am to 5 pm every day except when shuttered on Mondays.

Both castles serve traditional South Tyrolean food and drink if you wish to sip and eat among the same stones as knights and kings.

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Of Sun, Blood & Wine: The Red Eagle of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Symbols possess power. And in South Tyrol, there is perhaps no more powerful symbol than its coat of arms: the Red Tyrolean Eagle.

SPEND ANY AMOUNT of time in the South Tyrol and you can’t miss the ancient emblem of the eagle. Throughout the land, you’ll encounter it waving from red and white banners or gracing weathered walls wearing centuries of ruin. From our very first visit to South Tyrol, the brilliant red and stalwart pose of the heraldic eagle has captured our imagination.

According to historians, coats of arms came to be during the 11th century. Knights of the period originally placed them on their shields to broadcast their battle-born accomplishments to enemies. Thus, the first coats of arms were unique to each warrior. In time, the emblems became uniform to represent family lineage and allegiances to a throne.

Churburg Castle with the flag of South Tyrol — The unifying symbol of South Tyrol can be found flying throughout the land.

By the 13th century, coats of arms were commonplace — stirring fear from banners in battle and high above the crenelated towers of strongholds. However, only royalty and those granted a king’s blessing could harness their representative might. When a royal family claimed one as their own it became a unifying symbol through the centuries. Each generation passed their coat of arms to the next.

Red Wings Rising

The earliest known depiction of South Tyrol’s Red Eagle coat of arms is found in Castle Tirol, a striking fortress constructed in the 1100s. This castle became the ancestral seat of the Counts of Tyrol, which ultimately wielded such power in the region they named an entire land. A remarkable feat considering no other castle in Europe can claim the same.

The Red Eagle coat of arms in Castle Tirol is located in the stronghold’s chapel above a portal. It is in fresco form, but even with nearly 900 years of wear much of the eagle’s red plume still boldly remains. Imagine how brilliant it must have been when knights wandered the castle’s halls.

Even in certain death, he blazoned forward brandishing rare bravery few can muster.

Viewing the emblem in Castle Tirol casts it an almost mythical light. One comes away with a deeper understanding as to why those from the region see themselves as a Tyrolean first rather than Italian or Austrian.

The Outlaw Hero of Tyrol

Through the centuries the Red Eagle of South Tyrol has been regarded as a symbol of freedom. Possibly no more so than in the early 1800s when Tyrolean patriot Andreas Hofer led peasant rebellions against French and Bavarian occupation and rule.

South Tyrol Hero - Andreas Hofer — *Homecoming of the Tyrolean Militia* – A painting by Franz Defregger from 1876 celebrating the return of Andreas Hofer and his men.

A common man from South Tyrol’s Passer Valley, Hofer possessed such magnetic eloquence and esteem that when he pronounced the famous line “Men, the time has come!”, his fellow countrymen valorously sprang into arms. His iron resolution, dauntless courage and burning love for Tyrol inspired thousands into deeds of valor and sacrifice for their motherland.

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle, Why are thy plumes so red? “From suns that ﬁercely shine, From draughts of ruddy wine, From blood my foes have shed,— From these am I so red.”

**A statue honoring Andreas Hofer was erected in Merano in 1920.**

Labeling Hofer an outlaw, Napolean put a price on his head. A fellow countryman named Franz Raffl betrayed Hofer earning him notoriety as the “Judas of Tyrol”. On January 28, 1810, Napoleonic forces captured Hofer in a mountain hut at nearly 5,000 feet above the village of St. Martin just 11 miles north of Merano.

Under direct orders from Napolean, Hofer was executed by firing squad less than a month after his capture. He faced his fate with courage and dignity — refusing to kneel or be blindfolded.

Instead, he stared sternly at his murderers and when the commanding officer floundered in giving the order to shoot, Hofer gave it himself yelling “Fire!”. Even in certain death, he blazoned forward brandishing rare bravery few can muster.

An Ode to the Red Eagle of South Tyrol

It’s fascinating to know that as much as the Red Tyrolean Eagle inspired long ago, its presence still does today.

The emblem is a unifying symbol for the land. In fact, many South Tyroleans can still recite the following ode to the winged warrior from ages past.

Why Are Thy Plumes So Red?

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ In part because I rest
On Ortler’s lordly crest;
There share I with the snow
The sunset’s crimson glow.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ From drinking of the wine
Of Etschland’s peerless vine;
Its juice so redly shines,
That it incarnadines.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red? “
My plumage hath been dyed
In blood my foes supplied;
Oft on my breast hath lain
That deeply purple stain.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“From suns that ﬁercely shine,
From draughts of ruddy wine,
From blood my foes have shed,—
From these am I so red.”

The Red Eagle Across the Land

South Tyrol doesn’t lack stunning sights to capture no matter where you wander in this Alpine-Mediterranean jewel. But whether beaming from the heavens or adorned in the subtlest of ways, we have always found the South Tyrolean flag and coat of arms a must to shoot whenever coming across it.

Below are a few unique Red Eagle scenes we have encountered during our travels.

The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 34 Comments

Castle Taufers in the Alps of South Tyrol

FEW SIGHTS CAPTURE the imagination quite like an imposing medieval castle towering from an even more imposing mountainside. South Tyrol has no shortage of them. The region swells with 800 castles and mansions spread over a variety of its Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes.

In fact, more castles loom from this corner of northern Italy than any other area of Europe.

Surrounded by vineyards, orchards, forests and hiking trails not to mention some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the world, South Tyrol’s castles provide a truly breathtaking way to plunge yourself into the Middle Ages.

You don’t have to be a kid at heart or a fanatic of Games of Thrones to find these fortresses fascinating. Here are some celebrated South Tyrolean medieval haunts you’ll want to visit.

Castle Tirol

Tyrol Castle in Autumn — Picturesque even in the gloom of November. Many of South Tyrol’s castles, like Castle Tirol, tower from rocky spurs erupting out of forested mountainsides.

Perhaps the most important castle in South Tyrol, Castle Tirol rises over a deep ravine in the village of Dorf Tirol. This riveting fortress was such a force in medieval times that it cast its name upon an entire land. From its ramparts, you’ll cast your eyes over sweeping views of apple orchards, terraced vineyards and the unfurling rich greenery of the Etschtal valley.

Built in the 1100s, Castle Tirol was home to the Counts of Tyrol and wielded enough influence throughout Europe to earn ink in Dante’s Inferno, the epic poem first published in 1321.

Tappeiner Promenade Trees — The Tappeiner Promenade is a spellbinding walk that takes you right to Castle Tirol from Merano.

The Tappeiner Promenade, Algunder Waalweg (a path along an ancient water channel) and Falconers’ Path (Falknerweg) wind around the castle presenting countless photo opportunities. Plus, a perfectly positioned beer garden nearby entices you to sit and savor the sights with a refreshing beverage in hand.

The castle is the perfect place to discover the history of South Tyrol as it also contains the South Tyrolean Museum of History. Spread out through several floors in the castle’s chief tower, the museum reveals a new era of South Tyrol as you walk up. Taking the time to soak in the marvelous past of the region is a must when visiting the castle.

During the holiday season, Castle Tirol also hosts a cozy Christmas market within its courtyard. Visiting it at this time of year is especially endearing as the castle imbues all who enter with an undeniable Christmas spirit.

⇒ READ MORE: Castle Tirol – Ancient Might of the Alps

Brunnenburg Castle

Perched below Castle Tirol is another fortress of equal majesty. The Counts of Tyrol constructed Brunnenberg Castle as a line of defense against an attack on Castel Tirol. It was erected in 1250, but fell like so many historic haunts fell into ruin over the centuries.

At the beginning of the 20th-century, a wealthy German gave Brunnenberg new life by resurrecting it to its former medieval glory. Unfortunately, it was abandoned again after his death in 1925.

The castle sat empty until 1948 when the daughter of troubled American poet, Erza Pound, restored it once again. Ten years later Erza Pound joined his daughter at Brunnenberg after his release from a mental institution.

Today, the castle is open for visitors from early April through October. In addition to revealing fascinating medieval history, Brunnenberg also allows enriches your historical understanding of traditional farming methods at the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum, which is located on the castle grounds.

⇒ READ MORE: Brunnenburg Castle: Enchantment Set in Stone

Castle Taufers

Castle Taufers is one of the largest castles in South Tyrol. Staring up its stone walls chiseled with medieval brawn, it’s hard not to conjure up thoughts of Ned Stark boldly commanding from the castle’s throne room. Fortunately, you don’t have to be on the set of Game of Thrones to walk through its knightly halls. Castle Taufers attracts around 75,000 visitors each year.

Castle Taufers was residence to some of South Tyrol’s most powerful aristocrats of the 13th century. History abounds within. The castle boasts 64 rooms many of which are ornately decorated with paintings, chandeliers, intricate woodwork and weapons.

Among the most fascinating rooms are the torture chamber, the hall of knights, baroque library and the weapons hall. The castle’s Romanesque chapel captivates crucifix from around the year 1200. The chapel also showcases striking Gothic frescoes from 1482.

With its formidable appearance, it’s no surprise the Taufers Castle has found its way onto the silver screen. The castle served as the haunting backdrop to Roman’s Polanski’s 1967 horror classic: The Fearless Vampires, which starred Sharon Tate.

Trostburg Castle

Enthroned on a thundering mountainside above the Isarco river, the Trostburg Castle was the stalwart gatekeeper to the Val Gardena for centuries. The fortress, forged from stone around 1150, offers admirers a deep glimpse into life during the Middle Ages.

It was the childhood home to Oswald von Wolkenstein, an esteemed poet celebrated as the last Minnesinger of the Medieval Age. Interestingly enough, the person often regarded as the first Minnesinger also came from South Tyrol: Walther von der Vogelweide.

Trostburg Castle houses the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles where you can view with 86 true-to-scale models of castles throughout South Tyrol. This makes Trostburg an ideal castle to visit first so you can get a better idea on which South Tyrolean castles pique your interest the most.

Reaching Trostburg Castle requires a long hike up a cobbled path, but all who make it are rewarded with awe-inspiring sights stretching across the Valle Isarco.

⇒ READ MORE: Trostburg Castle: A Mountainside Enthroned

Castle Lebenberg

When walking along an ancient water channel carved into the steep mountainside, it’s easy to lose your breath at the sight Castle Lebenberg. The castle suddenly greets you from its perch after rounding a corner shrouded in grapevines. It vigilantly stands guard amidst rolling vineyards over the valley below.

The Lords of Marlengo constructed this elegant fortress in the 13th century. Castle Lebenberg fascinates visitors with its late Gothic chapel adorned in precious frescoes from the 14th century. The castle’s walls also hold a Hall of Mirrors and Hall of Knights that is complete with a collection of medieval weapons worth marveling at. Visitors can also explore an ornate French flower garden and inner courtyards straight out of a fable.

The most picturesque way to reach Castle Lebenberg is by hiking the Marlengo waalweg. From this trail, you’ll wander through forests, vineyards and orchards all while consuming the lushness of Merano and the surrounding mountains. A perfect way to spend a day in South Tyrol.

Prösels Castle

Erected more than 800 years ago, the Prösels Castle is a magnificent fortress with a haunting history. The castle sits in the shadow of Schlern mountain and in the 16th century was the site of witch trials, which resulted in the burning of dozens of women at the stake.

Despite its tragic past, the castle now serves as a place of celebration hosting many events and concerts. Its stark beauty against the rolling countryside leaves an impression you will not be quick to forget no matter the season you visit.

Churburg Castle

As much as Castle Taufers looks it belongs in Game of Thrones, it’s Churburg Castle that could be the inspiration for the swords, lances and armor of Westeros. For the last 500 years, Churburg Castle has remained within the same family and holds the largest collection of medieval armor in the world.

With 50 authentic suits of armor and accompanying weapons, one can only imagine the intense battles that were once fought to keep its arcaded courtyard with its two stories of frescoes fully-protected and remarkably-preserved to this day. The Churburg Castle is a feast for those drawn to the military history of Europe.

South Tyrol Castles – See the Medieval Heart of Europe

With 800 plus castles to pick from on any given visit to South Tyrol, you’re sure to find one you would love to call home. Even South Tyrol’s castle ruins look enticing to live in amidst the expansive romantic backdrop of mountains, vineyards and orchards.

This list of castles to see in South Tyrol is obviously by no means exhaustive. But we hope you now have a sense for the medieval splendor awaiting your exploration. Too many travelers are not aware of the striking architecture and history lying in the far north of Italy.

We’ll leave with a word of caution to those that favor the couch over a trail. Getting to many of these magnificent structures can be challenging. Many cling to mountainsides requiring hikes up steep trails and rugged paths. By the time you get to the top, you’ll know if you were cut out to be a knight. But worry not. The view from a mountain-born castle always quickly washes away any memory of the trek up. Always. We guarantee it.