South Tyrol Castles & Fortresses

Of Casks & Christmas – Revelry at Castel Rametz

With its towering battlements radiating amid vine-drenched hills and mountains lanced by snow, Castel Rametz is, without doubt, a quintessential sight of South Tyrol.

The wine estate, perhaps more than any other, embodies the beauty of Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes conspiring with medieval contours to steal your breath.

Perched above Merano in the luxuriant district of Maia Alta, Castel Rametz was etched on our must-see list ever since first admiring its stately manner from the mountainside of the Gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.

When we discovered the estate hosts a Christmas market each year, we carved out time to finally visit. The chance to turn several shades of merry before even setting foot in the traditional Christmas market of Merano was too enticing to pass up.

A Hillside Haunt Steeped in History

While Castel Rametz has seen rulers come and go over the centuries, wine has always reigned as the rightful owner to its throne. According to historical records, the castle was first mentioned in 1227 under the possession of the Counts of Ultimo. Glorious casks of wine soon followed.

Antique photo of Castel Rametz — Castel Rametz boasts centuries of winemaking in South Tyrol.

Grapevines thrive in the water-rich soil of a glacial moraine and receive generous downpours of sunlight from the south. And the Texel Mountain Group thundering on the horizon does more than elevate the romance of the estate. These 10,000+ foot giants also shelter the vines from blustery winds swooping down from the north.

Through the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, the Rametz family held the castle. Followed by other nobles of the region such as the Lords of Aichners, Quaranta and Parravicini.

In 1836, Francesco Flarer, a noted physician and professor from Merano, bought Castel Rametz eventually restoring the crumbling estate to its present romantic form. Nearly 25 years later, the castle’s vineyards saw the first planting of Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) in South Tyrol, which continues to flourish to this day.

we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

During World War II, German Schutzstaffel (SS) troops requisitioned Castel Ramtez along with nearby Castel Labers as a logistics base for a secret Nazi plan code-named “Operation Bernhard”. Commissioned by Hitler and his cronies, the goal of the operation was to undermine the British economy through the massive introduction of counterfeit money. The idea being escalating inflation would ultimately destroy Britain’s financial system.

Today, the Schmid family owns and operates Castel Rametz. In addition to the winery, the estate houses a traditional Tyrolean restaurant and a museum dedicated to the history of viticulture and speck production in South Tyrol.

Courting Christmas Cheer

We arrived at Castel Rametz on a pleasant sunny December afternoon and received season’s greetings in our favorite manner: the wagging tail of man’s best friend.

After imparting a handful of love on the furry coat of the castle’s guardian, we approached an immense arched doorway, which was a bit like walking up to a Christmas tree on Christmas morning as a child. A jingle of excitement rang through us as we wondered what lied beyond the tangles of ivy sprawling its hallowed stones.

Castel Rametz Mercatino — The Castel Rametz Christmas market occurs on weekends from late November until Christmas Eve.

The courtyard welcomed us with exquisite holiday dazzle. Classy decor and a roaring fire made it a sanctuary for the season. Looking around, we doubted the spirit of Christmas ever leaves Castel Rametz. Even after the season fades into the bleakness of winter.

The old-world ambiance of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

A stand in the courtyard offered traditional delicacies to delight in while enjoying the smokey crackle of logs aflame. But since we arrived right after lunch, we chose to browse the Christmas market within the castle.

Inside, we found artisans selling favors of the season including handmade decor, candles and even vintage black and white pictures of South Tyrol. These caught our interest. We picked up two scenes capturing the Dolomites from long ago to hang in our home.

Castel Rametz Wine Cellar — The 12th-century wine cellar of Castel Rametz is a marvel to browse.

Next, we followed candles leading us down steps into Castel Rametz’s cellar. The old-world character of the 12th-century cellar wrapped around us like a cozy Christmas blanket.

Amid the glow of flickering flames, we admired row upon row of wine bottles aging into the treasures of tomorrow. In a nearby stone nook, a carefully carved nativity scene caught our eye. We studied its graceful beauty beneath lights casting the deep blue hues of a winter’s night sky.

Gift of the Vines – Tasting the Wines of Castel Rametz

We could have remained enveloped in the ambiance of the cellar for some time, but there’s something about staring at bottles of wines that makes us want to uncork one. Embarking on a wine tasting next in Castel Rametz’s enoteca seemed wildly appropriate as our next stop.

We climbed the cellar stairs parking ourselves on two seats at the wine tasting counter. Castel Rametz’s Florian Lamprecht soon met us with a knowing smile.

A wine tasting at Castel Rametz — The portfolio of wines from Castel Rametz has been winning wine awards as far back as 1878.

We quickly learned English was not a common tongue. However, with our basic understanding of Italian, we spoke wine well enough together to enjoy a remarkable tasting.

While we only planned to sample three wines at the start, we had such a good time with Florian that our procession of wines ended up including seven different varieties from the Castel Rametz portfolio. Florian kindly brought us a plate of speck to savor during our time with him.

Whether you're a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Our tasting began with a 2017 Gewürztraminer, which was a favorite of Kate’s. We then progressed to a Pinot Grigio before sipping our way to the silky pleasure of a 2012 Pinot Nero (also known as Blauburgunder). Florian proudly pointed out that the first Pinot Nero vine planted in South Tyrol was at Castel Rametz in 1860.

All of the wines were a pleasure to taste, but the most surprising was the 2011 Césuret Chardonnay and the 2010 Castel Monreale Extra Brut, the latter of which won the gold medal at the “The WineHunter Award 2018”.

We tend to shy away from these wine varieties unless a special occasion calls for them; however, both of these gems from Castel Rametz would be a joy to uncork at any time.

When to Visit Castel Rametz

Whether you’re a lover of wine or simply a fan of riveting history and architecture, Castel Rametz is well worth adding to your trip plans while visiting Merano.

Guided tours are available upon request, but not required to see the museum and visit the enoteca for a tasting or to purchase the wines. Opening hours can be found on the Castel Rametz website.

A wayside shrine in the vineyards of Castel Rametz — The guardian of Castel Rametz watches vigilantly from the foot of the castle’s shrine.

Castel Rametz celebrates the advent season beginning the last weekend of November through the weekend before Christmas Eve. The market takes place on Fridays from 4 pm to 8 pm and Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 8 pm.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to dine at the Castel Rametz restaurant located on the estate, but we did take a peek inside. If the rustic interior is any indication, it appears to serve nothing but hearty goodness perfect for a blustery winter day. We suggest timing your visit to also enjoy a meal here.

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Enchantment Set in Stone – Brunnenburg Castle

By Kate & Vin 14 Comments

How do you defend a castle? If you are a Tyrolean, you build another beneath it. For almost 800 years, Brunnenburg Castle (also known as Castel Fontana) has stood like a stone shield to the most prominent castle in northern Italy — Castle Tirol.

In 1250, the Counts of Tyrol commissioned the fortress as a defensive outpost. It was erected on a glacial crag downslope from Castle Tirol providing watchmen a focused eye deep into the valley openings of Merano and Vinschgau.

Despite Brunnenburg’s position below Castle Tirol, both in royal command and mountain clinging elevation, this warden of the north is not any less impressive. Its ivy-mantled tower bears stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

The castle isolated on its own is enough to strike fear into an invading army. But seeing it paired with the mother of all castles looming above must have been a sight that sent road-weary raiders racing back to their homelands. Sacking one castle is hard enough. Two? Forget about it.

Sanctuary for a Troubled Poet

Today, instead of inspiring fear, Brunnenburg is more likely to inspire a poem. And in fact, it has. The castle was once home to the literary heavyweight, Erza Pound. After his release from a mental institution in 1958, Pound joined his daughter and grandchildren at Brunnenburg.

Brunnenburg's ivy-mantled towers bear stone teeth that bite into the sky conjuring a sight that is one part romance and one part menacing.

Erza Pound Portrait — Erza Pound, master of poetic prose. A comb? Not so much.

He spent his time tending to the castle grounds and gardens while continuing to pen prose for The Cantos — an epic poem that is comprised of 116 sections known as a “canto”. Given its length and often abstract musicality, The Cantos is viewed by many as a chaotic piece of work. Perhaps the genius of a fragmented mind that like the vines scaling Brunnenburg can only be adored in their entirety.

Pound’s daughter purchased the castle with her spouse 10 years prior to his arrival. Together, they saved Brunnenburg from a second bout of ruin. The first occurring hundreds of years earlier and lasting until 1903 when a wealthy German named Karl Schwickert bought the castle.

Schwickert thoroughly renovated Brunnenburg fashioning the castle into a more romantic form that woos visitors to this day. Yet for all its trappings of fancy, the castle could not escape tragedy. Schwickert’s wife suspiciously fell to her death from one of the balconies in 1904. He remained in the castle until his death in 1925.

Brunnenburg Folk Art — Brunnenburg Castle displays an assortment of fascinating historical artifacts and folk art from South Tyrol.

As Brunnenburg sat empty for more than 20 years, tales of hauntings arose as they tend to in soulless dwellings. Whether Pound ever encountered a ghost is not known. But by the reading of some of his poetry, one could say his mind was never far from hauntings of its own.

A Throne Amid the Vines

Brunnenburg Castle Vines — If only these age-old vines could tell tales.

Fortunately, you do not have to possess a mind wired for poetry or a heart pumping royal blood to stroll through the halls and terraces of Brunnenburg. Visiting the castle is a pleasant walk downhill from the village of Dorf Tirol along the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path).

By the way, this is the same path you take to visit Castle Tirol. Several points along the journey give you sweeping views of both castles with the snow-kissed peaks of the Texel mountain group photobombing it all in the background.

Brunnenburg is most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn's paintbrush is most alive with vibrant color.

As you walk the path, you’ll notice a deep ravine dividing the two castles. Don’t worry. You don’t need to latch to a zip line to visit both. Look for a signpost directing to a path off-shooting to Brunnenburg. This winding treasure descends through terraced vineyards, orchards and patches of old growth forest. Be careful as you walk here. The fairytale scenery may just have you whistling an ode to a fair maiden or prince.

Another more adventurous way to reach the castle is by hiking up the mountainside from the Algunder Waalweg or Tappeiner Promenade. Despite being quite a bit more grueling, these two paths are our favorite way to reach Brunnenburg. When the castle’s crenelated walls appear seemingly out of nowhere above a steep vineyard, it is a sight that wins your heart as much as the seductive juice from the vines running up to its gate.

Reaching Brunnenburg by trekking the Tappeiner Promenade from the heart of Merano will make the most enchanting walk in Italy even more enthralling.

To visit the castle from either path, you will eventually depart the trails and walk on a road called Gnaidweg or Via Gnaid. This road will lead you to a rugged path known as Brunnenburgsteig. It leads you up through a forest along an irrigation channel flanked by a vineyard on your left and an orchard on your right. The passage through the forest is rather steep, but not dangerous.

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When to Visit Brunnenburg Castle

We have admired Brunnenburg Castle in spring, autumn and winter. Each season imparts its own beauty to the castle.

But we have found it the most enchanting in early October when grapes still grace the vines and autumn’s paintbrush is most alive. Hiking along the Brunnenburgsteig then is like opening gift basket of aromas.

The Castles of Tirol — A brotherhood of strongholds, Castle Tirol and Brunnenburg Castle loom under the autumn sun.

Brunnenburg Castle South Tyrol — Nothing else quite like Brunnenburg in autumn. The castle vines decorate the walls in the magnificent color of the season.

Beyond visiting the castle for a dose of medieval whimsy, it can also whisk you on a cultural odyssey. Brunnenburg is home to the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum and Erza Pound Memorial Center. The museum displays age-old equipment that speaks to the traditional methods of South Tyrolean winemakers and farmers once used to cultivate a season’s harvest.

In addition to the museum, you can appreciate a collection of historical folk art and a variety of domesticated farm animals trotting outside the castle including goats, sheep, pigs, chickens and geese. Grazing in such a heavenly place makes being a farm animal in South Tyrol look rather posh.

Saltner of South Tyrol — While visiting the castle, take time to walk through the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum. You can stand toe-to-toe with a “saltner”. While wearing wild-looking garb, his job was once to protect vineyards from birds and thieves.

Brunnenburg Castle is open for visitors from early April through October. Doors open at 10:00 am and close at 5 pm from Sunday-Thursday.

For those driving in South Tyrol, we recommend parking in the center of Dorf Tirol and walking to the castle from the village.

If you visit Brunnenburg and walk away with a poem, be sure to add it in the comments below. You may find yourself being a poet without ever knowing it.

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A Halo of Ruin – Exploring the Castles of Eppan

By Kate & Vin 12 Comments

Three castles, one hike? Every castle hunter should be so lucky. That was our first thought after discovering a halo of castles forming a stunning hike called “Three Castles Walk” in Eppan / Appiano, South Tyrol.

We had just arrived at Weingut Donà for a multi-day romantic adventure along the South Tyrolean Wine Road. The Hocheppan Castle perched high above our villa apartment caught our eye immediately. How could it not? It loomed from a rocky ledge along a sheer mountain wall. From where we stood far below, this 12th-century stronghold looked to be a marvel of the most medieval kind.

Over the Hills and Far Away

We considered setting out on the Three Castles Walk from Weingut Donà, but opted to drive up the mountain a bit to a nearby village called Missiano. Starting from here gave us the best chance of visiting all three castles. Plus, from the parking lot, we could follow well-marked signs pointing the way up to our first castle stop.

On a steep hill above the parking lot sat an enticing looking church. We made a mental note to visit it if we had time after consuming the three castles. South Tyrol can be joyfully exhausting for curious souls like us. It teems with such intriguing sights making it a land where one could explore endlessly.

A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

We began the Three Castles Walk along a paved road, but were soon enveloped by vineyards as we ascended the foothills of Mondelo mountain range. Hocheppan Castle teased us from afar. But each step offered us an ever-widening view of the valley below.

Jagged peaks of the Dolomites soared from the horizon beyond Bolzano. The infamous Witches Mountain (Sciliar / Schlern) cut into the sky like a gravestone just above the molten gold of leaves still clinging to the vines. It was a sight of pure South Tyrolean splendor.

All Along the Watchtower

Eventually, the vineyards became woodland and we found ourselves in a shroud of trees. The path steepened in the forest, but we came across several benches to catch our breath. We were about to turn a final corner to Hocheppan Castle when we happened to glance behind us. A stone tower poked through the treetops on a small hill slightly to the north of us. It looked wretchedly old. As if it could crumble any minute. We had to check this mystery out.

Hocheppan Castle Chalk Tower — The 12th-century watchtower of Hocheppan Castle.

Veering off the main path, we hopped through the woods until finding another trail to the tower. Within 5 minutes we were at the foot of a sign reading “Kreideturm” (Chalk Tower). We darted up to the hill crest where the tower stood. Its appearance was rather austere. The tower looked like a poor man’s skyscraper. We discovered it was erected in the late 12th century as a watchtower for Hocheppan Castle. The king’s guard would ignite a chalk fire at the top of the tower to signal incoming danger.

We were not able to find a way into the tower so we moved on after thoroughly exploring the area. Walking through the forest back to the castle path, we came across a ghostly white face staring at us between the trees. We stood frozen. The face moved. Two horns flashed. Then the figure turned revealing a body much like a deer except it wasn’t. We watched with fascination as two chamois lightly floated over the forest floor seemingly without a care.

Chamois in the woods — Ghosts in the forest. Encounters with chamois while hiking to Hocheppan. Can you spot the second one?

At the Gate of Hocheppan

Twenty minutes later we finally came to the crumbling walls of Hocheppan Castle. Below us was a sweeping view that cemented why this fortress was built at this height. The castle itself is a remarkable ruin. Both a romantic and fierce sight at the same time. A tall bergfried looms from the castle’s heart, a medieval architectural relic that is rare in the Alps.

Once the mightiest stronghold in South Tyrol, Hocheppan came to crown the mountain around the year 1130. It sits at more than 2,000 feet and was the ancestral seat of the Counts of Eppan — sworn enemies to the Counts of Tyrol to the north. Given the name of the region you can guess who ultimately won.

Since the castle was closed for the season we were not able to wander whatever was left of its once kingly halls. Nor were we able to admire its famous chapel, which contains priceless ancient frescoes that paint a vivid picture of life during the Middle Ages.

Even though abandoned for more than 500 years, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been.

As we were alone at the castle, we sat silently on a bench admiring its form against the autumn sky. But we were not as alone as we thought. A cat crept up to our feet. She purred loudly nuzzling against our legs…clearly longing to be held. Who were we to argue? After coddling the cuddly furball, we set her free. She led us to the other side of the castle. No doubt its throne belonged to her as she was not in any way lost.

Castle Hocheppan / Appiano — Upon our arrival at Hocheppan Castle we were greeted warmly by the queen.

Hocheppan Castle Cat — As all castle visits must end, we bid farewell to the queen per the royal custom of South Tyrol.

To Boymont & Beyond

A sign on the path pointed us toward the second castle on our hike: Boymont. The trail took us down on a rocky ravine that we feared meant a steep climb at some point. Sure enough. Stairs built along the sheer cliff edge scaled the other side of the ravine. We sweated our way up the steps. The trail then snaked up a bit further before dropping us off at the door of Boymont Castle.

Boymont Castle is another ruin from centuries past. Its stone facade is quite different from Hocheppan. Boymont Castle wears a more reddish hue rather than gray and its decorative windows, with their arches and stone pillars, speak to an early Gothic style.

The Counts of Eppan built Boymont Castle in the 13th century. But they were not the first to reside on this castle hill. Archaeologists have found remnants from prehistoric times.

Boymont was not of military importance — serving as a luxurious residential manor instead. This is quite evident by its uncommon medieval form. Even though abandoned for more than 500 years after an arsonist set fire, the walls still boldly hint at what a majestic sight Boymont must have been. We peeked at the castle’s courtyard through an iron gate. It was magnificent. Definitely a place we will be returning to enjoy a South Tyrolean gem at its wine tavern.

Boymont Castle Windows — Admiring the early Gothic style windows of Boymont Castle.

We found the castle’s windows particularly fascinating. Peering through them long ago must have been exhilarating. Despite the fortress being in ruin, it was easy to picture its storybook past.

The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

After exploring all four corners of Boymont, we soaked in the panorama from the mountain’s edge. Steeples and tiled roofs colored the valley floor between sweeping swaths of vineyards and orchards. The sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. The third castle on the walk tempted us from some far off crag, but we saved conquering Castel Korb for another day. Being caught in the dark in a land haunted by legends was not how either one of us sought to spend the night. Besides we knew there was a bottle of wine waiting for us at Weingut Donà.

Once back at the villa apartment, we cleaned up and enjoyed a couple of glasses of Vernatsch before venturing to Bolzano for a feast at The Laurin Restaurant. Dining at a venue named after a royal legend seemed like the only appropriate way to end a day among regal ruins.

When to Visit Hocheppan & Boymont Castles

The best time to embark on the Three Castles Walk is obviously when the castles are open. However, we found having the trails and ruins to ourselves during the off-season especially memorable. Surprisingly, we lingered longer around each castle longer than we may if they had been open. The serenity one finds amidst the quietude of antiquity in South Tyrol is sublime.

If you are visiting South Tyrol during summer and much of spring or fall you will be able to experience everything Hocheppan Castle and Boymont Castle offer. Hocheppan is open from early April to early November. It can be visited daily from 10 am to 6 pm excluding Wednesdays. Tours are available in English.

Boymont Castle is typically open from late March to early November. Hours are from 11 am to 5 pm every day except when shuttered on Mondays.

Both castles serve traditional South Tyrolean food and drink if you wish to sip and eat among the same stones as knights and kings.

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Of Sun, Blood & Wine – The Red Eagle of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin Leave a Comment

Symbols possess power. And in South Tyrol, there is perhaps no more powerful symbol than its coat of arms: the Red Tyrolean Eagle.

Spend any amount of time in the region and you can’t miss this ancient emblem. Throughout the land, you’ll encounter it waving from red and white banners or gracing weathered walls wearing centuries of ruin. From our very first visit to South Tyrol, the brilliant red and stalwart pose of the heraldic eagle has captured our imagination.

According to historians, coats of arms came to be during the 11th century. Knights of the period originally placed them on their shields to broadcast their battle-born accomplishments to enemies. Thus, the first coats of arms were unique to each warrior. In time, the emblems became uniform to represent family lineage and allegiances to a throne.

Churburg Castle with the flag of South Tyrol — The unifying symbol of South Tyrol can be found flying throughout the land.

By the 13th century, coats of arms were commonplace — stirring fear from banners in battle and high above the crenelated towers of strongholds. However, only royalty and those granted a king’s blessing could harness their representative might. When a royal family claimed one as their own it became a unifying symbol through the centuries. Each generation passed their coat of arms to the next.

Red Wings Rising

The earliest known depiction of South Tyrol’s Red Eagle coat of arms is found in Castle Tirol, a striking fortress constructed in the 1100s. This castle became the ancestral seat of the Counts of Tyrol, which ultimately wielded such power in the region they named an entire land. A remarkable feat considering no other castle in Europe can claim the same.

South Tyrol Coat of Arms — Castle Tirol possesses the oldest depiction of the Red Eagle – South Tyrol’s Coat of Arms.

The Red Eagle coat of arms in Castle Tirol is located in the stronghold’s chapel above a portal. It is in fresco form, but even with nearly 900 years of wear much of the eagle’s red plume still boldly remains. Imagine how brilliant it must have been when knights wandered the castle’s halls.

Even in certain death, he blazoned forward brandishing rare bravery few can muster.

Viewing the emblem in Castle Tirol casts it an almost mythical light. One comes away with a deeper understanding as to why those from the region see themselves as a Tyrolean first rather than Italian or Austrian.

The Outlaw Hero of Tyrol

Through the centuries the Red Eagle of South Tyrol has been regarded as a symbol of freedom. Possibly no more so than in the early 1800s when Tyrolean patriot Andreas Hofer led peasant rebellions against French and Bavarian occupation and rule.

A common man from South Tyrol’s Passer Valley, Hofer possessed such magnetic eloquence and esteem that when he pronounced the famous line “Men, the time has come!”, his fellow countrymen valorously sprang into arms. His iron resolution, dauntless courage and burning love for Tyrol inspired thousands into deeds of valor and sacrifice for their motherland.

South Tyrol Hero - Andreas Hofer — *Homecoming of the Tyrolean Militia* – A painting by Franz Defregger from 1876 celebrating the return of Andreas Hofer and his men.

Labeling Hofer an outlaw, Napolean put a price on his head. A fellow countryman named Franz Raffl betrayed Hofer earning him notoriety as the “Judas of Tyrol”. On January 28, 1810, Napoleonic forces captured Hofer in a mountain hut at nearly 5,000 feet above the village of St. Martin just 11 miles north of Merano.

A statue honoring Andreas Hofer was erected in Merano in 1920.

Under direct orders from Napolean, Hofer was executed by firing squad less than a month after his capture. He faced his fate with courage and dignity — refusing to kneel or be blindfolded.

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle, Why are thy plumes so red? “From suns that ﬁercely shine, From draughts of ruddy wine, From blood my foes have shed,— From these am I so red.”

Instead, he stared sternly at his murderers and when the commanding officer floundered in giving the order to shoot, Hofer gave it himself yelling “Fire!”. Even in certain death, he blazoned forward brandishing rare bravery few can muster.

Why are thy Plumes so Red?

It’s fascinating to know that as much as the Red Tyrolean Eagle inspired long ago, its presence still does today. The emblem is a unifying symbol for the land. In fact, many South Tyroleans can still recite the following ode to the winged warrior from ages past:

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ In part because I rest
On Ortler’s lordly crest;
There share I with the snow
The sunset’s crimson glow.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“ From drinking of the wine
Of Etschland’s peerless vine;
Its juice so redly shines,
That it incarnadines.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red? “
My plumage hath been dyed
In blood my foes supplied;
Oft on my breast hath lain
That deeply purple stain.”

Eagle, Tyrolean eagle,
Why are thy plumes so red?
“From suns that ﬁercely shine,
From draughts of ruddy wine,
From blood my foes have shed,—
From these am I so red.”

The Red Eagle Across the Land

South Tyrol doesn’t lack stunning sights to capture no matter where you wander in this Alpine-Mediterranean jewel. But whether beaming from the heavens or adorned in the subtlest of ways, we have always found the South Tyrolean flag and coat of arms a must to shoot whenever coming across it.

Below are a few unique Red Eagle scenes we have encountered during our travels.

Castle Tirol – Majesty Among the Mountains

By Kate & Vin 16 Comments

What is it about castles? Whether in a perpetual state of crumble or masterfully preserved to reveal life in the Middle Ages, they endlessly fascinate us. We get lost in their haunting beauty as much as we do in the history and legends spun from within their ramparts of stone.

With 800 castles littering South Tyrol’s mountainous landscape, it’s hard to nail down one that impresses the most. But there is one whose ability to captivate us never fails no matter how many times we let it grace our eyes: Castle Tirol (also known as “Schloss Tirol” in German and “Castel Tirolo” in Italian)

Its imposing position 2,000 feet above the valley floor demands your attention from even miles away. Bearing such a commanding presence, it’s no wonder Castle Tirol named an entire region and its people. The word “Tirol / Tyrol” can be traced back to when the Roman Empire occupied the area. “Teriolis” was the given name of a Roman stronghold near Merano.

Erected in the 1100s by the Counts of Vinschgau, who later took title as the Counts of Tyrol, its storied walls hold some of the most important historical relics and artwork in South Tyrol. In fact, the faded frescoes of its chapel include the oldest painting of the Red Eagle, South Tyrol’s coat of arms.

The Many Moods of Castle Tirol

A unique quality of Castle Tirol is that depending on the temperament of the mountains or the hour of the season, the castle’s ancient majesty transforms before your eyes. Its seemingly ever-changing character is perhaps why we find Castle Tirol so alluring.

Autumn is a special time to visit as a wine-stand off the Falknerweg offers the season's new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grape vines while gazing at the castle and beyond.

See for yourself. Plunge into the Middle Ages with the following images. We hope they inspire you to etch the castle on your bucket list. Chisel not included.

Within the Storied Walls of Castle Tirol

As much as Castle Tirol enchants from the outside it is equally enchanting from within. The grandeur of the sweeping panorama awaiting visitors illustrates why the fortress was founded on its lofty, rocky spur.

A vintage image of the Tyrolean king ruling from Castle Tirol’s throne. Any resemblance to Vin is pure coincidence.

Situated to the north of Merano, Castle Tirol peers deep into the valley basin that stretches southward to Bolzano. On its western flank, the castle watches over the Vinschgau Valley, which runs toward Switzerland.

Inside the castle lies a treasure of archaeological finds including religious and pagan figures encircling the marble portals of the castle’s chapel. These are sculpted in Romanesque-style from the 12th century. Their meaning is still not entirely clear. Nevertheless, they are fascinating to study. Their ornate detail speaks to the superb craftsmanship of long ago.

The castle is also home to the South Tyrolean Museum of History and Culture offering an intriguing walk through the history of the land from its earliest beginnings to the modern era. The exhibit signs are in German and Italian, but visitors can check out an audio guide that is in English. The museum tour lasts about 50 minutes.

Castle Tirol Chapel — A larger than life Crucifixion scene crafted in 1330 looms over the chapel of Castle Tirol.

Reaching Castle Tirol

The only way to reach Castle Tirol is on foot. Trust us, this is a good thing. The hike to its gates is unforgettable. If views of the castle and vineyards riddled around it do not steal your breath away then the Texel mountain group in the distance certainly will.

When arriving at the area by car, we suggest parking in one of two public lots located in Dorf Tirol. From there, cross the street walking uphill along the sidewalk until coming to a sign designating the Falknerweg (Falconers’ Path). This beautiful path takes you past hotels, restaurants and vineyards eventually winding along the edge of a deep ravine where you can admire the picturesque Brunnenburg Castle — once home to the famous poet Ezra Pound.

Before rounding a corner to the castle you will pass through a 260-foot stone tunnel built in the 17th century. The entire walk takes 20-30 minutes depending on how much you pause to snap pictures or simply savor the historical and natural beauty all around.

TIP: The castle can also be reached from Merano by walking the Tappeiner Promenade. This route takes 2-3 hours but is what we consider the most enchanting walk in Italy. It is our favorite way to reach Castle Tirol.

When to Visit Castle Tirol

Castle Tirol is open to the public from mid-March to early-December. Visit the castle’s official website to confirm dates and hours. Admission fees are € 7 per adult. Children and senior citizens receive discounted rates.

If you visit the castle during one of the weekends in December when it is hosting its traditional Christmas market, you can enjoy the castle at no charge. Seeing it at this time of year is especially charming.

Autumn is also a special time to visit as a wine-stand off the Falknerweg offers the season’s new wine, which you can sip under a canopy of grape vines while gazing at the castle and beyond. Sounds a touch romantic doesn’t it? Afterward, treat yourself to a hearty South Tyrolean meal at Biergarten am Schlossweg — a panoramic beer garden nearby.

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Claiming the Throne at Trostburg Castle

By Kate & Vin 23 Comments

In a land with more castles scattered before you than anywhere else in Europe, it’s impossible not to wonder what the world was like when ruled from a throne. Especially when sweat begins beading on your forehead only 5 minutes into a steep climb to one of South Tyrol’s most imposing mountainside fortresses.

The cobbled road leading to Trostburg Castle snakes up from the village of Ponte Gardena (Waidbruck in German) in the lower Valle Isarco (Eisack Valley). Trekking to this medieval gem gives you a new appreciation for how people hundreds of years ago managed buns of steel without cheesy 30-minute workout DVDs.

By the time you reach the entrance of Trostburg Castle you nearly expect to be greeted by a knight named Sir Gluteus Maximus.

Hiking to Castle Trostburg — Trekking over antiquity. A steep cobblestone path winds up to the gate of Trostburg Castle.

Even though the journey to Trostburg Castle is a tad tiring, the walk is quite enjoyable. You’ll pass through meadows and forests with plenty of places to take a breather and admire the winding Isarco river below and the stronghold towering over it.

The number of photo opportunities to capture Trostburg Castle in commanding and endearing poses is countless.

Trostburg Castle Wild Flower — Wildflowers color the meadows all the way up to the foot of Trostburg Castle.

Just above the village, off the castle road, also sits a farm overlooking the valley. Here, we made some new friends of the hoofed kind. We’re normally not envious of jackasses, but the view these guys enjoy every day makes one conclude that being a jackass in South Tyrol isn’t such a bad thing.

Trostburg Castle Farm — Look, but don’t ride.

Further along the road, you’ll come across a sign that tells the story of Trostburg Castle. Of course it’s spelled out in German and Italian and, fortunately for all of us, also English.

⇒ You Might Also Like: Castle Tirol – Ancient Majesty Chiseled from a Mountain

Of Stone & Mountain

Trostburg Castle began its regal dominance over the Valle Isarco in the 12th century. Stone and rubble left behind by ancient glaciers and rivers in the area became Trostburg’s building blocks. For us, the mastery of stone and chisel by medieval masons is always awe-inspiring to witness.

The castle exchanged overlords numerous times over the centuries and was the childhood home of Oswald von Wolkenstein — a beloved medieval poet and composer who penned odes about travel, sex and God. He eventually took up residence at the Abbey of Novacella, an ancient monastery that is one of the oldest operating wineries in the world.

Around 1290, the Counts of Tyrol took possession of Trostburg from the Lords of Velturno and eventually sold it to the Lords of Villanders and Wolkenstein, one of the most prominent Tyrolean nobilities. For nearly 600 years, it enthroned the ancestral seat of the Wolkensteins.

In the late 1970s, after Lord Tyrol bravely fell the last dragon over the skies of South Tyrol, Trostburg Castle was open to the public. Okay, not all of that last sentence is true. Dragons died out in the 1950s, but the castle did indeed begin welcoming public tours in 1977.

Inside Trostburg’s Castle Walls

Wandering Trostburg’s majestic halls and grounds you’ll view several historically fascinating artifacts, artwork and architecture. Take time to admire the keen craftsmanship on display in its various rooms exhibiting Renaissance and Gothic influences.

If you love all things medieval, Trostburg Castle is a MUST SEE while in South Tyrol. With 800 castles to pick from in the area, it is one of our favorites.

The castle chapel of St. Anthony is curiously small and depicts moody religious scenes on its ceiling that are intriguing to ponder.

Hunters will want to linger in the castle’s large guest chamber and gaze at the murals with hunting motifs imparting clues to what a medieval hunt must have been like.

An item we found particularly mind-blowing was the immense medieval wine press located in the castle tower. When we first saw the wine press we thought it must be an ancient torture device meant to contort wretched souls in the most medieval way.

We were relieved to learn that its only victims were plucked grapes. Torturing grapes to give up their sweetness for South Tyrolean wine is just fine in our book. The wine press is the largest in South Tyrol and features a 36-foot long lumber pressing level that juts across the castle’s bastion.

As home to the South Tyrolean Institute of Castles (Südtiroler Burgeninstitut), three rooms in the castle house the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles. Here, you can walk through a historical tour of South Tyrolean castles with 86 true-to-scale models.

A Must-See for Castle Lovers

Fitting in a visit to Trostburg Castle is easy to do on your way into or out of Val Gardena. Just note that if you’re venturing into the Dolomites for an Alpine winter adventure you’ll have to skip Trostburg. It’s only open from the end of March to the end of October.

Admission is reasonable: €8 Euros for adults, €5 Euros for kids from 6 to 14 years old and free for youngsters 6 years old and under. However, the smart way to visit the castle, as well as a host of other amazing sights in South Tyrol, is to obtain the Museumobil card. The card is just €15-€34 Euros depending on duration and age. It gives you free access to 90+ museums and historical sights.

If you love all things medieval, Trostburg Castle is a MUST SEE while in South Tyrol. With 800 castles to pick from in the area, it is one of our favorites.

When you’re done visiting, we suggest crossing the Isarco River into the village of Chiusa (Klausen). One of South Tyrol’s finest craft breweries and taverns, Gassl Bräu, will welcome your weary legs with a comfy seat.

Walking into the brewery is slightly surreal as you step on a glass floor revealing a stream running beneath your feet with trout darting back and forth.

While here we recommend enjoying a hearty homemade South Tyrolean meal or lighter Mediterranean fare if you prefer. We chose both and they were equally delicious.

Of course, no visit is complete without drinking ample pours of Gassl Bräu’s beer — a perfect reflection of the region’s centuries-old craft brew tradition. The street-side tables offer just the right medieval setting to plan out how to claim your next throne!

If you like the sound of this castle hike, be sure to check out our post about hiking to the ruins of Hocheppan castle.

The Can’t-Miss Castles of South Tyrol

By Kate & Vin 34 Comments

Few things capture the imagination like an imposing medieval castle towering from an even more imposing mountainside. South Tyrol has no shortage of them. The region swells with 800 castles and mansions spread over a variety of its Alpine and Mediterranean landscapes.

In fact, more castles loom from this corner of northern Italy than any other area of Europe.

Surrounded by vineyards, orchards, forests and hiking trails not to mention some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the world, South Tyrol’s castles provide a truly breathtaking way to plunge yourself into the Middle Ages.

You don’t have to be a kid at heart or a fanatic of Games of Thrones to find these fortresses fascinating. Here are some celebrated South Tyrolean medieval haunts you’ll want to visit.

Castle Tirol

Perhaps the most important castle in South Tyrol, Castle Tirol rises over a deep ravine in the village of Dorf Tirol. This riveting fortress was such a force in medieval times that it cast its name upon an entire land. From its ramparts, you’ll cast your eyes over sweeping views of apple orchards, terraced vineyards and the unfurling rich greenery of the Etschtal valley.

South Tyrol Castles — Picturesque even in the gloom of November. Many of South Tyrol’s castles, like Castle Tirol shown here, tower from rocky spurs erupting out of forested mountainsides.

Built in the 1100s, Castle Tirol was home to the Counts of Tyrol and wielded enough influence throughout Europe to earn ink in Dante’s Inferno, the epic poem first published in 1321.

The Tappeiner Promenade, Algunder Waalweg (a path along an ancient water channel) and Falconers’ Path (Falknerweg) wind around the castle presenting countless photo opportunities. Plus, a perfectly positioned beer garden nearby entices you to sit and savor the sights with a refreshing beverage in hand.

View from Castle Tirol — The sweeping mountain and valley views from Castle Tirol make it well worth the hike to reach it.

The castle is the perfect place to discover the history of South Tyrol as it also contains the South Tyrolean Museum of History. Spread out through several floors in the castle’s chief tower, the museum reveals a new era of South Tyrol as you walk up. Taking the time to soak in the marvelous past of the region is a must when visiting the castle.

During the holiday season, Castle Tirol also hosts a cozy Christmas market within its courtyard. Visiting it at this time of year is especially endearing as the castle imbues all who enter with an undeniable Christmas spirit.

Brunnenburg Castle

Perched below Castle Tirol is another fortress of equal majesty. The Counts of Tyrol constructed Brunnenberg Castle as a line of defense against an attack on Castel Tirol. It was erected in 1250, but fell like so many historic haunts fell into ruin over the centuries.

At the beginning of the 20th-century, a wealthy German gave Brunnenberg new life by resurrecting it to its former medieval glory. Unfortunately, it was abandoned again after his death in 1925.

The castle sat empty until 1948 when the daughter of troubled American poet, Erza Pound, restored it once again. Ten years later Erza Pound joined his daughter at Brunnenberg after his release from a mental institution.

Today, the castle is open for visitors from early April through October. In addition to revealing fascinating medieval history, Brunnenberg also allows enriches your historical understanding of traditional farming methods at the South Tyrolean Agricultural Museum, which is located on the castle grounds.

Castle Taufers

Castle Taufers is one of the largest castles in South Tyrol. Staring up its stone walls chiseled with medieval brawn, it’s hard not to conjure up thoughts of Ned Stark boldly commanding from the castle’s throne room. Fortunately, you don’t have to be on the set of Game of Thrones to walk through its knightly halls. Castle Taufers attracts around 75,000 visitors each year.

Castle Taufers was residence to some of South Tyrol’s most powerful aristocrats of the 13th century. History abounds within. The castle boasts 64 rooms many of which are ornately decorated with paintings, chandeliers, intricate woodwork and weapons.

Castle Taufers in Winter — Castle Taufers watches over the village of Campo Tures in the far east corner of South Tyrol.

Among the most fascinating rooms are the torture chamber, the hall of knights, baroque library and the weapons hall. The castle’s Romanesque chapel captivates crucifix from around the year 1200. The chapel also showcases striking Gothic frescoes from 1482.

With its formidable appearance, it’s no surprise the Taufers Castle has found its way onto the silver screen. The castle served as the haunting backdrop to Roman’s Polanski’s 1967 horror classic: The Fearless Vampires, which starred Sharon Tate.

Trostburg Castle

Enthroned on a thundering mountainside above the Isarco river, the Trostburg Castle was the stalwart gatekeeper to the Val Gardena for centuries. The fortress, forged from stone around 1150, offers admirers a deep glimpse into life during the Middle Ages.

It was the childhood home to Oswald von Wolkenstein, an esteemed poet celebrated as the last Minnesinger of the Medieval Age. Interesting enough, the person often regarded as the first Minnesinger also came from South Tyrol: Walther von der Vogelweide.

Trostburg Castle Wine Cellar — The cantina at Trostburg Castle reveals how wine was made when kings and queens ruled from a throne.

Trostburg Castle houses the South Tyrolean Museum of Castles where you can view with 86 true-to-scale models of castles throughout South Tyrol. This makes Trostburg an ideal castle to visit first so you can get a better idea on which South Tyrolean castles pique your interest the most.

Reaching Trostburg Castle requires a long hike up a cobbled path, but all who make it are rewarded with awe-inspiring sights stretching across the Valle Isarco.

⇒ READ MORE: Claiming the Throne at Trostburg Castle

Castle Lebenberg

When walking along an ancient water channel carved into the steep mountainside, it’s easy to lose your breath at the sight Castle Lebenberg. The castle suddenly greets you from its perch after rounding a corner shrouded in grape vines. It vigilantly stands guard amidst rolling vineyards over the valley below.

The Lords of Marlengo constructed this elegant fortress in the 13th century. Castle Lebenberg fascinates visitors with its late Gothic chapel adorned in precious frescoes from the 14th century. The castle’s walls also hold a Hall of Mirrors and Hall of Knights that is complete with a collection of medieval weapons worth marveling at. Visitors can also explore an ornate French flower garden and inner courtyards straight out of a fable.

The most picturesque way to reach Castle Lebenberg is by hiking the Marlengo waalweg. From this trail, you’ll wander through forests, vineyards and orchards all while consuming the lushness of Merano and the surrounding mountains. A perfect way to spend a day in South Tyrol.

Prösels Castle

Erected more than 800 years ago, the Prösels Castle is a magnificent fortress with a haunting history. The castle sits in the shadow of Schlern mountain and in the 16th century was the site of witch trials, which resulted in the burning of dozens of women at the stake.

Despite its tragic past, the castle now serves as a place of celebration hosting many events and concerts. Its stark beauty against the rolling countryside leaves an impression you will not be quick to forget no matter the season you visit.

South Tryol Castles Prosels — Prösels Castle is a haunting fortress in more ways than one. Long ago, it was once the scene of several witch trials.

Churburg Castle

As much as Castle Taufers looks it belongs in Game of Thrones, it’s Churburg Castle that could be the inspiration for the swords, lances and armor of Westeros. For the last 500 years, Churburg Castle has remained within the same family and holds the largest collection of medieval armor in the world.

With 50 authentic suits of armor and accompanying weapons, one can only imagine the intense battles that were once fought to keep its arcaded courtyard with its two stories of frescoes fully-protected and remarkably-preserved to this day. The Churburg Castle is a feast for those drawn to the military history of Europe.

Churburg Castle Armor Suits — Churburg Castle remains battle ready with the largest assortment of medieval weaponry in the world.

South Tyrol Castles – See the Medieval Heart of Europe

With 800 plus castles to pick from on any given visit to South Tyrol, you’re sure to find one you would love to call home. Even South Tyrol’s castle ruins look enticing to live in amidst the expansive romantic backdrop of mountains, vineyards and orchards.

This list of castles to see in South Tyrol is obviously by no means exhaustive. But we hope you now have a sense for the medieval splendor awaiting your exploration. Too many travelers are not aware of the striking architecture and history lying in the far north of Italy.

We’ll leave with a word of caution to those that favor the couch over a trail. Getting to many of these magnificent structures can be challenging. Many cling to mountainsides requiring hikes up steep trails and rugged paths. By the time you get to the top, you’ll know if you were cut out to be a knight. But worry not. The view from a mountain-born castle always quickly washes away any memory of the trek up. Always. We guarantee it.