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Recommended Accommodations

Romantik Hotel Turm: The Art of Renewal in the Dolomites

By Kate & Vin 24 Comments

Romantik Hotel Turm

Throne & Vine IconHidden away amid cobbled streets and ancient stone walls at the foot of Schlern Mountain, Romantik Hotel Turm is a rarefied retreat in Alpe di Siusi.

IT’S NATURAL TO ASSUME all mountainside resorts on the cusp of the Dolomites are rustic lodgings roughly-hewn from the surrounding wilderness. But as we discovered this fall, Romantik Hotel Turm turns such Alpine clichés on their head. And it does so in such a way that you may pine for spying a Picasso as much as a cozy woodfire on your next mountain vacation.

Once a 13th-century tower in the medieval hamlet of Völs am Schlern (also known as Fiè allo Sciliar), Romantik Hotel Turm is a stylish oasis of adventure, culture and wellness under the shadow of South Tyrol’s most emblematic peak.

In this review, we uncover the special qualities that make Romantik Hotel Turm a 5-star jewel for anyone considering exploring the Dolomites of South Tyrol.

A Style All Its Own

Völs am Schlern
Romantik Hotel Turm sits beneath two church historic towers in the village of Völs.

At one time a defensive fortification, courthouse and even a prison, Romantik Hotel Turm retains much of its medieval architecture, but is enriched dramatically by the personality of owner Stefan Pramstrahler. The retreat is like a living, breathing canvas for his many passions.

The 2,000+ pieces of art and religious relics gracing Romantik Hotel Turm did as much for our eyes and soul as the hotel’s sweeping view of Schlern.

He has beautifully paired the rich history of the property with gardens, terraces and an onsite restaurant where he also happens to lend his culinary magic. As head of the kitchen, Mr. Pramstrahler leads a talented team in creating dishes showered by decades of accolades from famed international gourmet guides such as Gault Millau and the Aral Schlemmer Atlas.

Romantik Hotel Turm Balcony View
The view of the ancient Peterbühl hill with the lone chapel of St. Peter.

He also brings to life Romantik Hotel Turm’s own line of premium wines. At the Grottnerhof wine estate located just 10 minutes from the hotel, Mr. Pramstrahler channels the winery’s 800-year-old beginnings into four distinct wines noted for their purity and strong character.

But guests need not feel restricted to these beauties. The hotel’s cellar also boasts finds from some of the most celebrated wineries in the world.

Bliss for the Eyes & Soul

A Troll Sculpture Atop Schlern Even more unique than Romantik Hotel Turm’s historic halls, fine cuisine and wines are the adornments of the hotel. It is a veritable museum. Where the charms of ages past converge with the charisma of modern-day.

Meticulously unveiled throughout the rooms, vaulted corridors and lush grounds lies a world-class art collection, including everything from a Picasso to Otto Dix to bewitching works of art from Hans Kompatscher, a South Tyrolean self-taught painter.

The 2,000+ pieces of art and religious relics gracing Romantik Hotel Turm did as much for our eyes and soul as the hotel’s sweeping view of Schlern.

Romantik Hotel Turm StaircaseRomantik Hotel Turm Artwork

A Wooden Sculpture at Romantik Hotel Turm
More than 2,000 works of art from around the world await your contemplation and admiration.

But as vast as the hotel’s art collection is, the passion for art may be rivaled by Mr. Pramstrahler’s adoration for the winged spirit. Walking through the hotel it becomes immediately apparent his love for birds goes far beyond the regaled Red Eagle of South Tyrol.

From the pool’s edge, we adored watching the sleeping giant of Schlern turn shades of a rose as the setting sun performed its theater of alpenglow.

From the hotel’s wine labels to the names of suites to caged decor and more, the artful embrace of the feathered elevated our Romantik Hotel Turm experience. We found their peaceful presence an inspiring reminder to blissfully flee from the demands of daily life during our stay.

Romantik Hotel Turm Owl

Romantik Hotel Turm Owl
A love of birds greets you at every turn at Romantik Hotel Turm. As a boy, owner Stephan Pramstrahler, once even kept an eagle owl named Olga as a companion.

Alpine-Chic Redefined

Romantik Hotel Turm gorgeously spreads its accommodations among five towers. Each of the 42 rooms within the towers bears its own distinct personality. Our suite, in the Falkenturm (Falcon Tower), echoed the artistic flair of the tower’s winding staircase and medieval-inflected hallways.

Impeccably designed, we were struck by the modern take on Alpine tradition, as well as the view of the prehistoric Peterbühl hill crowned by the 14th-century St. Peter Chapel from our suite’s balcony. The spacious room was complete with Alpine-chic furnishings and touches such as reclaimed oak flooring, plush forest green accents, antler-mounted lamps and snow-white armchairs cozied up next to a fireplace.

Romantik Hotel Turm Suite

Schlern at Sunrise
Admiring the silhouette of Schlern in the first rays of morning.

The bed looked as if it had sink-in comfort that invites deep sleep. But our favorite feature of the room was the double shower enclosed by stone and glass.

Each morning a floor to ceiling window in the shower gave us a view of the sun rising above the peaks of Schlern. Watching the mountain awaken under the hues of dawn is a sight to remember.

A Wellspring of Wonder & Wellness

Romantik Hotel Turm PoolHowever, no surprise, our relaxation during our stay day did not end with a morning shower. The ancient walls of Romantik Hotel Turm’s spa complex reveal everything from seductive nooks inspiring calm to a midnight black outdoor pool that ripples into a candlelit cove with an indoor Jacuzzi.

We then would ease into a light sleep in a relaxation room dappled with the boughs of quaking aspens while listening to the enrapturing rhythm of water dripping.

Unwinding in the warm tranquilness of the pool and Jacuzzi after every day of hiking was a must for us. From the pool’s edge, we adored watching the sleeping giant of Schlern turn shades of a rose as the setting sun performed its theater of alpenglow.

Romantik Hotel Turm Spa

A rose in the Romantik Hotel Turm garden

Romantik Hotel Turm Sauan
The Mystic Fire Guard sauna offers a one-of-a-kind spa experience that you will return to each night.

Afterward, we took turns sweating away toxins in the Mystic Fire Guard sauna, an aromatic steam sauna awash in romantic red hues. Ringed by torchlight and a bed of water, the sauna overlooks the Wolfsbrunnen wading pool where a gleaming white sculpture of wolves fascinates against the backdrop of Schlern.

We then would ease into a light sleep in a relaxation room dappled with the boughs of quaking aspens while listening to the enrapturing rhythm of water dripping. Wholly renewed each night after time in the spa, we would then ready ourselves for a gourmet evening.

True Culinary Mastery

Enjoying a glass of wine at Romantik Turm Hotel
Bartender-extraordinaire, Lorenzo pours a glass of Romantik Hotel Turm’s Corax (Black Raven) Pinot Noir from its own 13th-century wine estate.

Romantik Hotel Turm’s Oswald von Wolkenstein Bar offers luxuriant lounging prior to dinner. You can sip your drink of choice by a roaring fire or amid a visual cocktail of art decorating the bar area. Among the most intriguing here is the Picasso mentioned earlier.

However, our favorite work of art in this area of the hotel was a piece that is actually a trophy. Located in the wood-clad Zwirn Stube next to the bar is the coveted Oswald von Wolkenstein trophy. It comes from a thrilling annual medieval horse riding tournament of the same name.

The trophy, called “Standarte”, is a hand-carved portrait of Oswald von Wolkenstein (a legendary minnesinger from the 14th century) atop a wooden pole. The best horse riding team receives the trophy each year, but teams can only keep it if they win three years in a row. Not an easy feat. However, Mr. Pramstrahler knows how to master a horse as well as a kitchen.

Oswald von Wolkenstein Trophy
The Oswald von Wolkenstein trophy just may be the coolest trophy we have ever admired in a bar.

We dined each night in the main dining room of Restaurant Turm. The setting was exquisite. A wall of windows facing Schlern allowed the spirit of the mountain to flood into the restaurant. Once the sun set, the splendid view did not fade into the night. A towering bonfire was lit on the terrace illuminating the iconic silhouette of Schlern.

He’s one of those rare chefs that could very well have traded their chef’s hat for an artist’s brush.

Upon walking in we were always warmly greeted by the staff who all spoke excellent English. The service we received during our stay was as if we were among friends. Staff continuously asked us questions beyond our appetites and offered insider tips for exploring the area.

Our table setting radiated romance beneath the flicker of candles and fantastical light fixtures that evoked a starry night. Soft music filled the room with ambient melodies.

Turm RestaurantRomantik Hotel Turm Breakfast

Romantik Turm Restaurant
Foodies and fitness enthusiasts alike will rejoice at Restuarant Turm.

The menu options presented were superb. Each night you can choose from a 4-course “Romantik” menu, a special “1001 Calorie” menu or order à la carte.

After placing our order, we received expert guidance on selecting a fun wine pairing to complement our meal. As South Tyroleans at heart, we always chose a delicious local gem.

The delectable dishes landing on our table each night did not disappoint. From the oven-warm breads to the appetizers to the novel soups, entrees and desserts, it was clear Mr. Pramstrahler and his kitchen staff possess a passion for crafting dishes where every element counts, including presentation. He’s one of those rare chefs that could very well have traded their chef’s hat for an artist’s brush.

Our breakfast each morning was of equal splendor. There is no better way to begin your day than watching the rising sun ignite the crests of Schlern a fiery red over a cappuccino. A hotel daily newsletter in English was also at our table each morning. It shared endearing stories about the staff and locals, a weather report, as well as details on guided excursions and spa treatments available.

Relaxation & Romance

Romantik Hotel Turm SpaRomance swirls throughout the arched halls and rooms of Romantik Hotel Turm. But the dreamy dwellings we encountered while touring the spa center elevate amorous to a new level.

The spa center offers a bevy of wellness and beauty treatments steeped in Alpine customs and beyond. From all-natural cosmetic remedies to stress-melting massages with volcanic stones to milk and honey baths fit for a royal, you will undoubtedly detoxify your mind, body and soul while at Romantik Hotel Turm.

Romantik Hotel Turm Hay Bath
For centuries, South Tyroleans have embraced the curative powers of Alpine hay to revitalize the body.

As neither of us has experienced a traditional Alpine bath, we opted to schedule a mountain pine oil bath and a hay bath infused with wildflowers after a day hike on the Alpe di Siusi. Prior to the treatment, we were graciously instructed to relax in comfy chairs and sip apfelsaft while the spa center attendant, Esme, prepared each wooden tub. She shared that we would be enjoying each bath side by side.

Beds float above pools of water as waves of candles cast a romantic glow over the stone walls.

Both tubs were filled with steamy hot water. Mountain pine oil from South Tyrol’s Sarntal Valley swam with spruce branches from the nearby slopes in one tub. The other held a submerged cloth bag filled with hay and flower petals from the hotel’s own Alpine meadow.

Romantik Hotel Turm Bath Treatments

We carefully sunk into our respective tubs. Esme then pulled a wooden lid over the top so our heads were the only exposed part of our body. This was to allow the aromatic trappings of each tub to fully perform their steamy magic on our tired limbs.

Each treatment lasted a blissful 25 minutes with Esme politely checking in on occasion to ensure our comfort. We toweled off and both enjoyed a fresh glass of water in a relaxation room walled by countless logs, Next, we ventured to the salt grotto for at least a half-hour of laying down as Esme advised.

Romantik Hotel Turm relaxation room
Relaxation rooms at Romantik Hotel Turm offer the idyllic settings to instill a sense of calm.

Carved into rock beneath the hotel’s towers, a sense of peace washes over you the moment you enter the grotto. Beds float above pools of water as waves of candles cast a romantic glow over the stone walls.

Above you, the ceiling twinkles with celestial lighting as if you are under a clear night sky. Here, we both fell into a slumber.

Tips for Your Stay – Sights Around Romantik Hotel Turm

If you are already considering visiting the Alpe di Siusi region, then undoubtedly the vast Alpine pasture of the same name is no mystery to you. But the region offers much more than the undulating meadows rolling about the Dolomites.

A stay at Romantik Hotel Turm allows you to easily discover the grandeur of Alpe di Siusi, as well as these remarkable sights.

Parish Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Church Near Romantik Hotel Turm

Located just steps away from the hotel, the Parish Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is a religious treasure inside and out. From the spellbinding murals to its ornate Baroque pulpit to its late-Gothic triptych from 1489, the church presents a beautiful glimpse into medieval art history.

The church was first mentioned in the 1100s, but fell to ruin after a fire. In the 15th century, the church was rebuilt. The oldest relic once found inside was a Roman crucifix from 1200. It is now held at the village museum.

Parish Church of Vols am Schlern

Inside the Parish Church of Vols

Laghetto di Fiè

Laghetto di FieNestled in the middle of an evergreen forest just 10 minutes away from Romantik Hotel Turm is Laghetto di Fiè — a 16th-century creation that has become one of South Tyrol’s most popular swimming lakes in the summer.

While this small body of water doesn’t gleam the famous cerulean blue of other Alpine lakes such as Lago di Braies, we found it a haven of stillness beneath Schlern.

Laghetto di Fie in Alpe di Siusi

Marshes around Laghetto di Fie

A trail winds around the lake allowing you to immerse yourself in untouched natural splendor without ever ascending the mountain. And if you visit Völs in winter, you can rent skates to dazzle over the frozen lake.

St. Peter on the Hill

Peterbuhl Hill and Chapel

The small chapel of St. Peter sits atop Peterbühl hill. Excavations on the hill have shown it has been a settlement since the Mesolithic period more than 8,000 years ago. First documented in the 14th-century, the chapel is one of the oldest in the Alpe di Siusi region.

Walking to the hill from Romantik Hotel Turm is well worth your time. Taking in the full immensity of Schlern from the summit imparts an appreciation for why our early ancestors made the hill their home.

St. Peter Chapel in South Tyrol

Kate on Peterbuhl Hill

Additional historic sights to consider during your stay at Romantik Hotel Turm include the 800+-year-old Prösels Castle, the legendary St. Valentin Chapel and the St. Konstantin Chapel, which is less well known, but is just as enchanting against the mighty backdrop of Schlern.

Who Should Stay at Romantik Hotel Turm?

If you are still not sure Romantik Hotel Turm is right for you allow us to describe who will find the hotel ideal. We recommend Romantik Hotel Turm to any traveler passionate about food, art, history and wellness. This type of guest would find Romantik Hotel Turm endlessly enthralling without ever adventuring into the Dolomites.

Couples seeking a romantic getaway will also be equally enamored by the offerings of Romantik Hotel Turm. Families traveling with children, on the other hand, will likely prefer other nearby accommodations better suited to entertaining all ages. During our stay, we did not see any children, which makes the romantic vibe even more alluring.

Romantik Hotel Turm offers several packages to suit your desires and needs. From half board to guided tours to single rooms and suites, you will have no trouble embarking on an unforgettable holiday.

Prices vary from season to season and range from €151 to €256 per night.

ENJOY THIS POST? SAVE IT!

Romantik Hotel Turm Resort Review

We would like to give special thanks to Mr. Pramstrhaler and his entire team for welcoming us to Romantik Hotel Turm! 

Filed Under: Recommended Accommodations Tagged With: Romantik Hotel Turm, South Tyrol Accommodations

Romancing the Vine at Donà Winery

By Kate & Vin 21 Comments

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What is your idea of romance? A candlelight dinner? A moonlit stroll? How about sipping delicious wines amongst crumbling castles and breath-stealing mountain views? Such a place exists — and best of all you do not have to suffer a romance novel to experience it.

IF YOU ARE not familiar with the wine country of South Tyrol, spending a day cruising along its famous Wine Road makes for an excellent introduction. This mellow roadway unfurls with pure Mediterranean bliss — winding gently from one vine-drenched hill to the next.

Stately manors in regal poses pop amid the fruited scape — painting a seductive scene that would make even Casanova blush. But as nice as it is to drive along the Wine Road, we discovered that to really appreciate the unique culture of South Tyrol’s Alpine wines, nothing tops staying at a boutique winery perched beneath the peaks.

In this post, we introduce you to the lovely Donà Winery (officially Weingut Donà in German) — a charming family-owned wine estate situated near the historic wine village of Eppan. In addition to romancing grapevines into mouth-dazzling wines, the estate also offers guests a chance to relax amid vineyards while enjoying the lofty company of the Dolomites and Alps. As you’ll see, staying in a place surrounded by such beauty is an experience unlike any other.

Escape to the Vines

Passing the village of San Paolo on the drive to Donà Winery.

Thanks to a canceled flight and the inevitable outcome of lost luggage, it was evening by the time we turned up the road toward Weingut Donà. Since night had fallen, we were grateful to have rows of grapevines guiding us in the headlights until reaching the villa parking lot. Without these leafy blessings of Bacchus who knows where we would have wound up.

The apartment's rustic adornments were complemented by contemporary touches — perfectly marrying Tyrolean charm with Italian flair.

While getting out of our car, we spotted a stone ruin softly bathed in amber lighting high up on the mountain behind Donà Winery. What ancient wonder loomed overhead we wondered?

As we arrived later than our scheduled check-in time, Martina Waldner Donà, the owner of Weingut Donà, gave us instructions to locate the keys to our villa apartment. Walking in was immediately pleasing to our travel-weary legs and eyes.

Weingut Dona Winery
Dona Winery
Weingut Dona Kitchen
Weingut Dona Bedroom
Weingut Dona patio

Warm alpine wood accents greeted us. These rustic adornments were complemented by contemporary touches — perfectly marrying Tyrolean charm with Italian flair. The thoughtfully curated decor and furnishings gave the apartment a spacious yet cozy look. 

We fell in love with a dining nook tucked into the corner of the kitchen by a window. The thought of sipping a cup of coffee there in the morning while spying mountain-born treasures out the window was enticing.

But first, we needed some serious rest. We both fell into bed and let the weight of the day’s travel troubles sink us into a deep sleep.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Visiting Lana: Soulful Adventure Awaits You in South Tyrol

A Ring of Mountains

The following morning arrived in a blink. We awoke to the dawning sun pouring through the apartment’s windows. Back home, we would have pulled the covers over our head to catch another wink. But while in South Tyrol, we welcome every single ray.

A balcony off the living room provided the first daylight peek of our surroundings. Grapevines encircled us. In the western horizon, just beyond the rooftops of Bolzano, stood the snow-blessed peaks of the Dolomites.

But the majestic mountain views did not end with the Pale Mountains. The Texel Group of the Italian Alps beamed with morning splendor to the north of Lana and Merano. To the east and south, rose the sandy-hued ridges and crags of the Mendola mountain range.

Kate admiring the centuries-old Hocheppan Castle high above Weingut Donà.

We stepped outside to get a sunlit view of the winery. Its stucco facade gleamed amid the vines. As if the setting wasn’t already swooning with enough romance, a castle gripped the mountainside above us. The mystery from the night before fully revealed.

Castle hunting in South Tyrol demands steady legs.

The look of awe on our faces must have been rather obvious as we were soon greeted with a knowing smile by Martina Donà. She warmly introduced herself while sharing that the castle was called “Hocheppan”.

Castle Hocheppan is one of many medieval ruins near Donà.

We were somewhat familiar with this medieval fortress as we knew its 13th-century chapel held the earliest known fresco depicting a man eating one of our favorite Tyrolean dishes: knödel (dumplings).

As self-proclaimed castle hunters, we immediately asked Martina if it was possible to reach Hocheppan. She said it certainly was by foot, but that the interior was closed for the season. That did not matter to us. A good trek is always on our mind in South Tyrol. Hiking to Castle Hocheppan became a must-do while staying at Weingut Donà.

The snow-capped peaks of the Texel Group soar beyond the vineyards of Weingut Donà.

Martina shared a bit more about possible sights of interest near her winery. Her joy in sharing South Tyrol was only rivaled by her enthusiasm for wowing guests. She made us feel right at home immediately.

Before heading back inside to get ready for a day trip to Bolzano, we scheduled a winery tour and tasting with her the day after our castle hike. Hiking up a mountain the same day as a wine tasting did not seem wise. Castle hunting in South Tyrol demands steady legs.

Savoring South Tyrol’s Wine Culture

The morning after our castle hike was just as gorgeous as the previous two. We savored the sunlight pouring in again while nibbling on fresh Schüttelbrot that Martina graciously left us the day before. If you are not familiar with Schüttelbrot, it is an Alpine-spiced rye flatbread that is a crispy treat common in South Tyrol. 

Martina at Weingut Dona
Martina points out the significance of the mountain silhouette on the Weingut Donà logo.

Afterward, a stroll through the vineyard just outside our door was too tempting to pass up. If you have never meandered through a vineyard in the early morning light, make a point to add it to your South Tyrol bucket list. Watching the evening’s mist lift off a canopy of vines as sunlight streaks across the mountain is a sight you will not forget.

Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà's Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry.

Shortly after our walk, Martina arrived greeting us with a bag of freshly picked apples from one of Weingut Donà’s orchards. Immediately sinking into their juiciness was tempting, but we had another fruit to tango with first. She led us below the villa to a boutique wine operation and cellar.

Hansjörg Dona

As we toured the winery, Martina shared that Weingut Donà is a family-run wine estate founded by her and husband Hansjörg Donà (both pictured above). Hansjörg spent several years working as a winemaker for other respected wineries in the region — eventually heeding the call to make his own distinct wine mark in South Tyrol.

Bringing together skills, passions and a savvy for recognizing opportunity, Martina and Hansjörg set out to produce exceptional wines that reflect the spirit of the Alps. What’s more, by offering accommodations on the estate, they realized a life-long dream of intimately sharing South Tyrol’s unique wine culture with guests.

Weingut Dona Fermentation Tanks
A handful of stainless steel fermentation tanks at the winery result in a remarkable amount of reds and whites — 30,000 bottles each year.

When asked what differentiates her winery from others in South Tyrol, Martina stressed the family’s ability to keep a long-term perspective in all that they do. Weingut Donà pays sharp attention to the details that matter in the vine, barrel, bottle and glass.

The estate delicately balances the right touch of leading-edge technology with age-old techniques including careful cultivation by hand. This progressive yet traditional approach ensures Weingut Donà produces only the best wines year after year. The industry has taken notice — granting several coveted awards across the winery’s portfolio.

Weingut Dona Tasting Room

After admiring the stainless steel tanks in Weingut Donà’s fermentation cellar, Martina led us to an enchanting tasting room lined with French oak barrels. These classic “barriques” do far more than impart a romantic ambiance. The winery also uses them to mature its wines.

While lingering to enjoy the sweet aroma of grapes swirling about the room, Martina shared with us that almost 4 hectares (roughly 10 acres) of vineyards surround the winery. Furthermore, Weingut Donà vinifies grapes from another vineyard near the village of Dorf Tirol to the north. This mountainside plot is the source of the winery’s award-winning Sauvignon Blanc.

In the bottle cellar, Martina pointed out Weingut Donà’s full portfolio. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, other Donà varietals include Chardonnay, Vernatsch, Lagrein and Merlot. Sold mostly to hotels and restaurants in South Tyrol, consumers can also purchase the wines the estate’s wine shop.

Swirling With Donà Wines

We began our tasting with Weingut Donà’s Terlaner Chardonnay. Typically, we skip over Chardonnays when at a wine shop, but the Chardonnay from Weingut Donà was a masterpiece. It was nicely balanced. Both crisp and lush imparting hints of green-apple flavors.

Next, Martina poured their Vernatsch (also known as Schiava). This varietal has really grown on us during our time in South Tyrol. The Vernatsch was as delicious as any we have tried. Martina indicated that after 5 years of producing it, Weingut Donà won the top award for Vernatsch in Italy. We could easily see ourselves drinking it at any time of year.

We followed the Vernatsch with Weingut Donà’s Lagrein. Staring deep into Lagrein is almost as hypnotic as sipping it. In the glass, Donà’s Lagrein dazzled with a dark ruby color. In the mouth, it tantalized with notes of black cherry. Lagrein always pleasantly surprises as it is lighter than its color would suggest.

Our final wine was a Lagrein Merlot blend. This beauty was new to us. Martina paired the wine with a hard Parmesan-like cheese from Mila — a local dairy producer that creates authentic Alpine flavors by using milk only from South Tyrol cows. We consider South Tyrolean milk the best in the world so naturally, every bite was a delight.

Weingut Dona Lagrein Merlot

The Lagrein Merlot itself was excellent. The Merlot lent a more bold character that danced with subtle fruit flavors.

Such over-the-top hospitality made us feel like family.

With a big smile, Martina made our “sample” a full pour and we all toasted to an exquisite tasting. It’s not every day we sip wine in the morning, but Martina was such fun to be around we would uncork a bottle anytime with her.

Martina took us on a grand journey through her family’s world-class wines.

We highly recommend all who stay at Weingut Donà to embark on a guided tour and tasting if the opportunity allows it. You will come away with a heartfelt appreciation for the hard work, passion and pure joy the Donàs put into winemaking.

Familylike Hospitality You Will Cherish

After the wine tasting, Martina gave us a tour of the largest apartment at Weingut Donà. It was even more enamoring than our own.

Gorgeously decorated throughout and offering sweeping balcony views to die for, this spacious rental sleeps up to 6 guests. Wine lovers looking for a getaway with friends or family should definitely consider booking here.

Before leaving Martina to enjoy a visit to Merano, she gave us a restaurant recommendation in nearby Lana — an alluring town known as the California of the Alps. She even took the time to call the owner ensuring a table would be available.

Martina then made another call to her daughter, Franziska, informing her we would be parking our car at their other holiday apartments across from the restaurant. Such over-the-top hospitality made us feel like family.

we took a seat on the terrace to watch the setting sun gild the vines in gold.

After a brief car ride, we arrived in Lana and met Franziska. She was just as gracious as her mother. Franziska made sure we understood how to find the alley-side restaurant, as well as spent time sharing key sights in Lana we might want to explore.

By the time we arrived at the restaurant, 1477 Reichhalter, we were craving a serious meal. Funny how wine before lunch tends to do that. We sat in a small dining room resembling an old farmhouse inn.

Despite the traditional country ambiance, our hunger talked us into splitting the meals between Italian and South Tyrolean. Both were more than satisfying. If it wasn’t for being full, we just might have immediately reordered a second round of the dishes.

Sipping Vernatsch while relaxing on Donà Winery’s sun terrace.

We returned to Weingut Donà in the early evening picking up where we left off with Martina. With a bottle of Donà’s award-winning Vernatsch and two glasses in hand, we took a seat on the terrace to watch the setting sun gild the vines in gold. Ending the day this way was the only choice.

How to Experience Weingut Donà

BOOKING OPTIONS FOR WEINGUT DONÀ: The winery offers apartments for up to 4 guests. The two larger villa options can sleep up to 6 guests. Dogs are permitted in the apartments for an additional charge, but not allowed in the villas. Rates are very affordable and vary by season. Explore Weingut Donà booking options and availability for the dates of your holiday travel.

REACHING WEINGUT DONÀ: Getting to Donà is easy. The winery is conveniently accessible via the Autostrada whether arriving in South Tyrol from the south or north. It is located along the South Tyrolean Wine Road within minutes of Eppan (Appiano). Guests can check-in beginning at 2 p.m.

WHEN TO VISIT WEINGUT DONÀ: The winery’s apartments and villas are available to guests year-round. Deciding on when to visit is a personal choice. We stayed in late fall and loved seeing the winery transitioning between autumn and winter. However, experiencing Weingut Donà in spring or summer would be equally beautiful.

A stay at Weingut Donà in autumn immerses you in vineyards ablaze with shades of crimson and gold.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES AROUND WEINGUT DONÀ: Plenty of adventure and history lies right outside the winery — making the estate the ideal “choose your own adventure” destination. We highly recommend trekking the Three Castles Walk which carries you through vineyards and forests to the gates of three mountainside medieval gems. In addition, you can explore other remarkable wineries along the Wine Road, as well as visit the chic capital of Bolzano (a 15-minute drive).

If you’re willing to go a bit further north, you can also take in the natural and historic wonders of Lana and Merano. Both are less than 30 minutes from the estate.

And if you are aching to go hiking in the Dolomites, you can be among the stony giants in just 30-40 minutes. From the winery, you can admire the spires of the Rosengarten and Schlern so don’t be surprised if the mountains call!

Additional photos of Weingut Donà credited to Florian Andergassen.

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Filed Under: Alto Adige Wines, Recommended Accommodations Tagged With: Alto Adige Wines, Eppan, South Tyrol Accommodations, South Tyrol Winery, South Tyrolean Wine Road

Hotel Quelle – Relaxed Luxury in the Alpine Wild

By Kate & Vin 36 Comments

Hotel Quelle Outdoor Spa Area
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If you’ve forgotten what unspoiled natural beauty looks like, let Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort remind you. Our recent stay was the perfect soul mending blend of Alpine adventure and relaxation. In this detailed review, we show why you will adore this South Tyrolean treasure in the heart of the Alps.

WE WERE IN DEEP. A part of South Tyrol never explored before. Well, at least not by us. The excitement of encountering the unknown volted through our hearts. What treasures would we find in this land bejeweled with stone, pine and pasture?

We didn’t have to wait long to find out.

As our car ascended a road cut through a swath of evergreens, we emerged into an opening where grass ran in waves up to a hill beyond our eyes. On the other side of the road, the green tide tumbled into another forested enclave. From its heart rose a watchtower wearing centuries of medieval scorn.

Monguelfo Castle
Castel Monguelfo, also known as “Schloss Welsperg”, greeted us in all its glory on our way to Hotel Quelle.

Further up the hillside stood another tower — an even more time-worn relic in an eternal state of crumble. Beyond this castled scene, the chiseled peaks of the Dolomites thundered on the horizon. Naturally, we stopped the car to soak in the sight.  

Falling in love with this part of South Tyrol was going to be easy. That much we knew already. What we didn’t know was just how much it was going to feel like home.

South Tyrol’s Rustic Pearl

We crested the castle hill and began a slow descent into a valley that stretched ever wider with farmland. Trees once lining the road were now relegated to the edges of forest-clad slopes. The occasional church spire reached up from huddles of rustic chalets dotting the rolling landscape.

Were we traveling through a postcard? The abundance of idyllic country scenery left no doubt the Casies Valley is a rustic pearl within South Tyrol’s wondrous Puster Valley. Our expectation for a few days of Alpine enchantment at its award-winning Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort grew with each passing moment.

Hotel Quelle Nature Spa Resort in South Tyrol

As we came upon the village of Santa Maddalena, we saw dozens of red and violet geraniums swaying from the balconies of Hotel Quelle. They were indeed waving at us to exit the road.

After being in the car for more than an hour, we were anxious to get settled. But before walking into the hotel foyer, we paused to inhale the pure mountain air and our new surroundings.

Hotel Quelle’s alluring charm extended well beyond its flower-draped balconies. The landscaping carried us to a simpler time. Amid rows of flower beds, a mountain creek rippled rhythmically through a weathered water mill wheel.

Hotel Quelle Water Mill
A water mill endlessly sings a melody of falling water.

Nearby, two antique tractors in nostalgic pose added their colorful touch to the rural setting. Along the walkway, a wooden wayside shrine cradled by pink flowers offered its blessings to those who noticed. 

A Warm Welcome

Inside, the hotel’s warm embrace began before we even encountered a soul. At the foot of a spiral staircase leading to the reception area, we admired wood carvings of a man and woman arising from tree trunks reaching out for one another. Artful honeycombed lights hanging above radiated their form with a candlelight glow. Etchings of the word “Welcome” in various languages staggered up the stairwell wall.

Rich tones of Alpine wood wrapped around us at the top of the stairs. Every corner of the hotel exuded a mountain lodge ambiance with just the right touches of elegance. We loved it. Clearly, the boundless natural beauty of the valley inspired Hotel Quelle to create an equally gorgeous resort. 

mountains loomed over the resort offering us breathtaking beauty at a moment’s whim. The soothing sound of a rushing waterfall not far away promised us the most restful sleep in ages.

We walked over to the front desk where Hotel Quelle’s manager, Manuel Steinmair, met us with a kind smile. He invited us to relax in a cozy lounge area while our luggage was brought to our room. Relaxing here was not going to be a problem. In the middle of the room under a luxuriant chandelier was a grand floral arrangement bursting with the colors of autumn. The wooing flames of a fireplace enticed us to sink deep into our chairs.

The hotel’s maestro of bar-born wonders, Stefan, brought over a glass of Lagrein, a German pale lager and an early evening appetizer. While sipping and savoring, we browsed a daily guest newsletter given to us by Manuel.

Hotel Quelle Staircase
Hotel Quelle Light Fixtures

On the cover was a quote: “Your mind believes what you tell it, so tell it positive things.” Do negative thoughts surface in such a charming place? We were already positively certain they do not, but appreciated the inspirational reminder anyway.

The newsletter provided the weather forecast, the day’s culinary delights, evening entertainment as well as available spa experiences and guided outdoor excursions. With 48 attractions awaiting us including 7 pools, 10 saunas, a Vital Garden and the vast wilderness of the Alps just outside the door, we were thankful to receive recommendations.

Upon finishing our drinks, we were greeted by Lisa whose charisma glowed as warmly as the fireplace. She wore an adorable dirndl befitting the hotel’s Alpine character. We followed her to our room through hallways adorned with traditional Tyrolean accents. Every attempt she made to point out the resort’s amenities along the way proved futile. Our attention kept wandering from one lovely decor piece to the next.  

Our room was called the “Romantic Fire” suite. One step inside and it was easy to see why. Stylish Alpine detail, relaxed furnishings, soft mood lighting, minibar and a crackling virtual fireplace gave the room an air of refined intimacy.

Hotel Quelle Romantic Fire Suite
Hotel Quelle Romantic Fire Suite Bed
The Romantic Fire Suite at Hotel Quelle ensures sweet Alpine dreams.

From the balcony, mountains loomed over the resort offering us breathtaking beauty at a moment’s whim. The soothing sound of a rushing waterfall not far away promised us the most restful sleep in ages. Nearby, a private hot tub tempted us, but dinner time was approaching so we resisted its pull until later in the evening.

We walked back into the room and found our luggage sitting neatly in the room’s closet. Our jackets from our car were hung for us and even items we previously purchased on our trip cordially set out. All we had to do was change into our evening attire.

From Forest to Fork

Dining at Hotel Quelle we found isn’t so much an event, but a journey.

Each night, Hotel Quelle’s chefs and wait staff greeted us as if joining them in their own home. The joy they took in guiding our senses through delectable Alpine and Italian gourmet cuisine was infectious throughout our stay.

The tables swooned with romance. Elegant settings paired with swaying candle flames and soft music encouraged whispering nothing but sweet nothings every evening.

Kate Sipping Elena Walch Wine
Enjoying a white from one of South Tyrol’s top wineries.

We began each night by speaking with Hotel Quelle’s resident sommelier, Akos Joo. His wine knowledge was astonishing. With 10,000 bottles in the hotel’s wine cellar, Akos’s advice in making a selection was invaluable. Plus, every time we spoke with him we came away a little wiser about wine.

When we requested he surprise us with a white from Elena Walch, a wonderful winery we had previously visited, he returned with their “Beyond the Clouds”. We could not have been happier. It was a bottle we had been wanting to try for quite some time.

The hotel’s salad buffet was like discovering a bounty of fresh goodness from the forests, gardens and pastures of the local area. The soup of the day was also always a pleasant surprise. We delighted in unfamiliar flavors of crayfish, oxtail and liver dumplings. Yes, it’s possible to delight in liver.

Hotel Quelle Buffet

The second courses were masterfully prepared and so artistically presented that it almost seemed wrong to disturb them with a fork. Flashes of creativity were apparent in every dish. 

We’ve savored knödel dishes throughout South Tyrol, but the wonder Hotel Quelle set before us was particularly rich and delicious. The drizzled Gorgonzola perfectly infused a creamy, tangy Italian touch into a hearty Tyrolean favorite that was nicely offset by the juicy kiss of the glazed grapes.

For us, deciding between South Tyrolean or Italian cuisine was too challenging so we took turns. One of our favorites was South Tyrolean potato ravioli stuffed with rosemary ham on asparagus and “Bozner” sauce. Bozner sauce we learned is the kind of down-home kitchen magic South Tyrolean grandmas know by heart. It’s a delicious local delicacy made with eggs, mustard, salt, pepper, chives and butter.

Hotel Quelle Cuisine

After the second course, we faced even more challenging menu choices. Each night Hotel Quelle prepared four main course options. Two of which were meat dishes such as Black Angus steak, rack of lamb, pork, veal and duck breast. Seafood and vegetarian dishes like grilled king prawns and potato pumpkin stew comprised the other two.

We both tried the meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes and found them all to be heavenly from the first bite to last. But the one whose flavors stole our hearts was the South Tyrolean spinach dumplings (also known as spinatknödel) with Gorgonzola sauce and glazed grapes.

We’ve savored knödel dishes throughout South Tyrol, but the wonder Hotel Quelle set before us was particularly rich and delicious. The drizzled Gorgonzola perfectly infused a creamy, tangy Italian touch into a hearty Tyrolean favorite that was nicely offset by the juicy kiss of the glazed grapes.

By the time we made it to dessert each night, we gave each other a look of concern. Could we possibly still have room? But our worries melted away whenever we saw the scrumptious delights waiting for us. After enjoying so much amazing food, it would have been just wrong to walk away from the table before the finish line. So we stepped up to the plate so to speak and never regretted it.

Hotel Quelle Desserts
Every bite was a brush with heaven.

One lavish treat we both cherished was actually a first for us. Buchteln is a marmalade-filled pastry of the sweetest order. This traditional South Tyrolean concoction was served to us with a vanilla sauce that we could not get enough of.

The deliciousness of our evenings continued each morning with a plentiful breakfast buffet flush with fresh pastries and breads, homemade jams, local cheeses and meats, berries and juices. As if that wasn’t enough, tasty made to order dishes were also whipped up in an open-air kitchen.

Chasing Cowbells & Waterfalls

Hotel Quelle Pond

Our first morning at Hotel Quelle began the same way our first night ended: relaxing in the hot tub on our balcony. Afterward, we ate a quick breakfast and decided to walk the property. We ventured out of our room to seek out the waterfall whose symphonic splashes sang us sleepy melodies all night.

One doesn’t realize how spellbinding water can be until its curative powers are at the heart of your surroundings.

A rushing mountain stream nearby offered us a pretty good clue. We followed the morning sun bursting off its surface and were soon at the foot of a wide waterfall. Further up we could see two more sending a cascade of Alpine purity from some distant peak.

Hotel Quelle Waterfalls
A river runs right through the grounds of Hotel Quelle.

Near the stream, we could hear a slight, gentle clang of cowbells coming from over a hill. We were not about to miss a chance to befriend cows in this fairytale land so we raced up into a meadow that yawned into the mountainside.

A small gathering of cows grazed unmoved by our enthusiasm. Beyond them, the valley stretched for miles until revealing the stony summits of the Dolomites.

Cows Grazing Near Hotel Quelle

We lingered admiring the idyllic scenery for a bit then strolled down the hill back to Hotel Quelle. Our next walking adventure was in the Vital Garden.

Here, we went barefoot on a winding Kneipp path. This unique hydrotherapy treatment originated in the 19th century thanks to the naturopathic research of Sebastian Kneipp, a Bavarian priest.

Hotel Quelle Outdoor Spa Area

The treatment involves walking over pebbles and stepping into shallow baths of alpine water. The stones massage the soles of your feet while the swings between cold and heat improve blood circulation in the legs. We found it a fascinating way to harness the mountain.

After a couple of times around the Kneipp path, we spent the rest of the morning lounging poolside simply letting the sun’s rays caress our skin. No matter where we were in Hotel Quelle’s outdoor oasis of wellness, the soothing sound of water fell all around us.

One doesn’t realize how spellbinding water can be until its curative powers are at the heart of your surroundings.

Kate taking a spin around Hotel Quelle’s Kneipp path.

Nothing Sweeter than a Hotel Quelle Massage

The afternoon began with a trip to the lunch buffet. We were not all that hungry yet, but the aromas emanating from the kitchen were too enticing to ignore. Besides, when you feel like a guest in someone’s home, it’s just plain rude to turn down a meal.

Despite the appetizing spread, we made our time at the table short. Showing up late for a spa appointment is an even greater sin than skipping a meal in our book.

When selecting massages the previous day, we must have been going through sugar withdrawal. We browsed 20+ available massages, but settled on a back massage with South Tyrolean honey and a full body hot chocolate massage. Both were as sweet as they sound.

Hotel Quelle Massage Room
Hotel Quelle masterfully creates the most relaxing settings.

Simply laying in the massage rooms would have been enough to induce a deep state of relaxation. Warm wood walls gently lit by a Himalayan salt lamp summoned a calming Alpine spirit. A flower in full bloom graced our eyes while lying face down on the massage table.  Once the masseuses began, our sense of calm transformed into something more. A deep peace.

When we awoke to reality an hour later, we were glad our hiking excursion was not until the following day. Trekking in our trance-like state would have been like walking through molasses.

Delighting in Simple Pleasures

Ensuring we took it easy the rest of the afternoon was made even easier by Hotel Quelle. A traditional bread baking demonstration was on the activities calendar. Watching bread bake was the exact speed we were looking for.

The demonstration took place next to the hotel’s outdoor infinity sport pool. Just the sight of the sun glimmering off its cerulean water enlivened us a bit. We made plans for a dip immediately after our Tyrolean bread baking lesson.

South Tyrolean Bread Baking Demonstration

While making bread is a simple joy itself, the real fun was in watching youngsters roll and knead the sticky dough into semblances of loaves. The kids were transfixed by the whole process. We were too once the opening of the outdoor oven swallowed our creations. Medieval in size and manner, the oven had to be a former resident of one of the castles we passed on the way to the hotel.

Behind the oven stood Hotel Quelle’s own chapel dedicated to the patron saint of travelers, St. Christopher. We wandered inside to marvel at this quaint adornment to the hotel grounds.

Hotel Quelle Poolside Chapel
The St. Christopher Chapel of Hotel Quelle

The sun streamed through stained-glass windows bathing the interior in amber and blue hues. A magnificent iron cross hand-forged by a faithful soul hung above a worn wood altar. Left of the cross was an ornate statue of St. Christopher and to the right the Virgin Mary.

While small, the careful craftsmanship evident throughout chapel matched the loving reverence found in any cathedral. Taking a few quiet moments inside is as relaxing as unwinding on a poolside lounger.

Revivifying in the Waters of Hotel Quelle

Venturing into the infinity sport pool at Hotel Quelle is like making a grand entrance into a translucent ballroom. The pool begins indoors with steps leading down into the water.

Two doors then slide open automatically when sensing your presence. The only thing missing is applause once you wade in!

We spent our time in the pool leisurely lapping back and forth. The water temperature was just right.

Swimming at Hotel Quelle
The Infinity Sports Pool at Hotel Quelle is a must-swim.

When needing a break we sat at the pool’s edge enjoying the quiet beauty of the chapel and a rustic mill tucked among flowers, evergreens and boulders born from the slopes beyond.

After our time in the infinity pool, we explored the other pools and jacuzzis situated on the other end of the hotel. The views on this side were even more impressive.

We could have sat all day in a jaccuzi facing the rugged mountain splendor under the spell of the late afternoon sun. It was hard to imagine a more perfect Alpine scene. But on the following day, Hotel Quelle made sure we found it.

Heeding the Mountain’s Call

Our third day began with another soak in our room’s hot tub. Clearly, a morning ritual was taking shape. After another hearty breakfast, we met a handful of other guests in the reception area to elevate our Alps experience…literally.

Sitting atop a mountain high above Hotel Quelle is the resort’s own chalet called Uwald. Each week the hotel’s guides, Barbara and Luca, lead hikes to this rustic gem perched at 6,700 feet. Beyond enjoying jaw-dropping views, guests are also treated to a traditional South Tyrolean meal prepared in the open. 

The genuine hospitality, novel amenities, abundance of activities and warm ambiance of Hotel Quelle fosters a feeling of belonging that is rare in our experience.

We all hopped in a transport van that dropped us off at the trailhead in Santa Maddalena village near Hotel Quelle. Luca gave instructions for the hike to the group in German and Italian. As we set off up the path, he thoughtfully came over to us and shared the details in English.

Hiking in Val Casies
Stone, pine and pasture all around you.

On both sides of the path, we adored green pastures sprinkled with wildflowers and cows basking in the sunlight. Farmsteads in perfect postcard poses greeted us.

They looked peaceful and motionless from afar, but as we approached, the hard work of making a living off the land became ever more evident. Stacks of wood and feed framed by tractor tracks tunneling into the mud told tales of South Tyrolean sweat and toil. Winter was coming.

Casies Valley View from Mountain

Stands of pine and larch eventually overcame the verdant greenery as we began winding up the mountainside. The sun’s rays fragmenting through the canopy no longer warded off the morning chill. That was fine by us. The steepening trail kicked on our own furnaces. Catching a cool breeze was now welcome.

We chatted with a few other guests along the way. For many, Hotel Quelle was their destination of choice each year. This didn’t come as a surprise. The genuine hospitality, novel amenities, abundance of activities and warm ambiance of Hotel Quelle fosters a feeling of belonging that is rare in our experience.

Val Casies Mountain Stream
The closer we reached the summit the more autumn revealed ts true colors.

Over an hour into the hike, we paused to let a mountain biker pass and catch our breath. A clearing in the trees offered up all of Casies Valley below. This was our kind of workout: totally immersed in a bird-sung forest with pure mountain air and epic views as the reward.

Kate at Uwald Chalet

As we continued our ascent, the trees began to thin out. An Alpine meadow gradually unfolded before us. The melodic clang of cowbells dinged ahead.

We rounded a corner and met our hoofed musicians who kept their noses to the mountain. The merry band of moo grew as we arrived at the Uwald chalet. Luca was already tending to a large grill warming up under a fire.

Lunch at Uwald Hut

We took a seat on rocking wooden loungers with the other guests on a porch overlooking the cows and the valley. The peaks of the Dolomites tantalized in the distance. The stunning view held our gaze for more than a moment. But enchantment alone cannot quench thirst so we turned our attention to a pitcher of edelweiss-infused water. Its subtle sweetness did the trick.

A man sporting a traditional Tyrolean hat and holding an accordion suddenly appeared at the edge of the Uwald. Where he came from we did not know. But looking back, we are certain he arose from the mountain itself as some sort of elemental gift to us weary hikers. His delightful playing during the duration of our visit inspired an even more jovial atmosphere.

South Tyrolean Musician
Savoring mountain views, meals and South Tyrolean melodies at Hotel Quelle’s Uwald Chalet.

The lunch we enjoyed inside the chalet was the perfect culinary companion to the hike. It consisted of grilled sausage, chicken, beef, potatoes, polenta and zucchini all washed down by ample amounts of Vernatsch.

Afterward, we relaxed awhile longer on the loungers taking in the serene view and letting the mountain meal settle. Barbara soon came by with a big smile offering us a shot of help. She had a bottle of Schnapps in hand. We were reluctant at first, but she jokingly informed us that at these heights Schnapps is no longer alcohol, but medicine! Put that way how could we resist?

Like hidden gems? Skipping the shuttle on the way back to the resort is always a wise move.

Once our legs recovered for the adventure down, we hopped back on the trail towards Santa Maddalena. The descent was a feast for the eyes as we watched the valley swell with each step.

When we reached our starting point, the afternoon sun was illuminating autumn’s full glory. Continuing trekking to the hotel instead of catching a ride in the transport van was the obvious choice.

Where Alpine Italy Meets Hawaii

Back at Hotel Quelle, we decided to don our spa robes and explore the resort’s themed saunas and relaxation rooms. While reviewing the hotel newsletter earlier at breakfast, an upcoming sauna infusion noted as “Tropical” caught our attention. Hotel Quelle’s spa manager, Andrea, had previously mentioned that sauna infusions are a sensory experience not to miss.

“Aufguss” is a sauna tradition not to miss while at Hotel Quelle

Alpine wellness comes in many forms. For some, it’s as simple as unwinding with eyes closed in a remote mountain setting. For others, it’s scaling a craggy cliff always one slip away from death. And for others still, it’s roasting in a blazing hot sauna inhaling steam from exotic healing oils and herbs with dozens of other naked people while loud music and clapping pulsate all around you.

Sound intriguing? It is. Welcome to the sauna practice called “Aufguss” (German for “infusion”).

The Tropical Aufguss we participated in at Hotel Quelle took place in their Infinity Show Sauna. We arrived a few minutes before the event and found the sauna nearly full with guests.

Hotel Quelle Sauna

We had no idea it would be so popular. As we squeezed in on a bench, the “Aufgussmeister” arrived wearing a bikini top with a flower lei and a grass skirt. 

The Beach Boys “Surfing in the USA” came on next followed by DJ Antoine’s “Ma Chérie” at which point everyone was clapping to the beat. By the time the show finished, we could barely see through the sweat beading down our foreheads.

She closed the sauna door and explained to us in German and Italian the ritual she was about to perform. We ascertained that it involved setting snowballs infused with special oils from Madagascar on the sauna stove. We also caught that if the heat became too intense we were free to leave at any time.

The Aufgussmeister then began to dance around the stove as the sound of maracas filled the sauna. We all recognized the song immediately and began to bounce to the 70s classic “In the Summertime” by Mungo Jerry. The Aufgussmeister released the snowballs on the stove directing the fragrant steam toward us with the rhythmic wave of towels and fans.

With each of her gyrations around the stove, the heat intensified reaching 90+°C (194+°F). The Beach Boys “Surfing in the USA” came on next followed by DJ Antoine’s “Ma Chérie” at which point everyone was clapping to the beat. By the time the show finished, we could barely see through the sweat beading down our foreheads.

Snow Sauna at Hotel Quelle
The Snow Sauna at Hotel Quelle is the first of its kind in South Tyrol.

As recommended, we rinsed off in a shower outside the sauna and then darted into the Snow Sauna, a cooling sauna experience unlike any other in South Tyrol. Powdered snow and ice crystals enshrouded us from all sides. The temperature hovered around -10°C (14°F). We were in a posh ice cave that Ötzi the Iceman would have envied.

Enduring such large swings from hot to cold produces health benefits, including boosting metabolism and promoting better blood circulation. We found the frigid blast rather enjoyable and recommend everyone try it while at Hotel Quelle.

We wrapped up our sauna excursion by sitting in the Water Mill Sauna. As its name suggests, a wooden water mill is at the heart of the experience. It was quite comfortable at 65°C (149°F), allowing us to slowly soak in views of the pond in the Vital Garden and the surrounding mountains.

A Long Goodbye

Our last morning at Hotel Quelle came much too soon. We tried to slow the start to the day with another visit to the hot tub. If only we could pack our new morning ritual into our suitcase.

The mountains outside our room seemed to have moved in closer overnight. The waterfalls more alive. Why is it that when you have to leave a place that has captured your heart it somehow becomes even cozier? The gods of travel like to play the cruelest tricks.

We made our way to the breakfast buffet and took our time savoring every bite and sip. Glancing at the hotel newsletter, we saw that a festive celebration in traditional South Tyrolean fashion was taking place in the evening. We were going to miss it. Clearly, the gods were to be extra cruel on this day. We comforted ourselves with few a more krapfen to soften the sense of loss.

After saying goodbye to Manuel and his team, we headed to our car with yellow rose in hand, a touching departing gift. A card caught our eye from under the rear window wiper. It bid us farewell stating that our windshield had been cleaned so that we may always see clearly for a safe journey back home. But we were not going home.

Lake Braies in South Tyrol, Italy
The yellow rose from Hotel Quelle joined us as we explored Lago di Braies

Our next adventure in South Tyrol was going to be at the iconic and ever majestic Lago di Braies. Exploring such a renowned natural treasure was the only worthy follow up to our stay at Hotel Quelle.

We’d like to thank the Steinmair family and their entire team for making us feel so at home at Hotel Quelle! And we’d like to congratulate them on winning the 2019 Trivago Award as the best 5-star hotel in Italy!

Tips for Your Stay

For more insight on how to enjoy Hotel Quelle to the fullest, check out our Hotel Quelle Tips page.


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Review of Hotel Quelle

Filed Under: Recommended Accommodations Tagged With: Alpine Wellness, South Tyrol Accommodations

Mediterranean Dream: A Soul-Mending Stay at Preidlhof

By Kate & Vin 42 Comments

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 Dreaming of a place where relaxation, romance and nature conspire to recharge your very being? Consider escaping to Preidlhof Hotel & Spa.

THE FIRST HINTS OF AUTUMN. When you see it your heart sings a bit. The promise of the season lifts spirits. So when we began driving up a mountainside to Preidlhof Hotel & Spa and found ourselves surrounded by vineyards and orchards teasing the colors of fall, we had to stop. Not indulging in the first chance to walk among changing foliage would have been unforgivable.

Our walk led us past a creek shimmering in the early evening sun. The golden rays bouncing off the babbling water showered us with flickers of the day’s fading light. 

Further up the slope, we spotted palm trees standing like stewards over the fruitful landscape. Beyond their carefree sway, a crenelated castle keep caught our eye against a distant snow-capped mountain peak.

An oasis on the mountainside. Preidlhof Hotel & Spa sits amid some of the most stunning scenery in South Tyrol.

We discovered later it was but one of the many medieval wonders in this corner of heaven. This came as no surprise. Among the many things South Tyrol has impressed on us is that a king would have to be stark-raving mad not to covet such a land deeply held in a lush Mediterranean dream. 

Mastery in Renewal & Romance

Returning to our car we continued winding up the mountain until rounding a final bend where Preidlhof’s elegant marquee welcomed us. One of the top 5-star hotels in Italy, Preidlhof is a family-owned, adults-only spa resort sitting on the lush Sonnenberg mountain in Naturns. The resort basks in 315 days of sunshine each year be-gifting couples an Eden-like setting for wellness and romance.

Walking in, the hotel’s opulent interior instantly enamored us. A linear fireplace softly lit the reception area complemented by ambient lighting casting lavender and sapphire hues all around.

Past the reception area, contemporary furniture and decor contributed to the hotel’s sleekness. In our experience, many resorts can overplay the “modern look” creating a cold, sterile vibe. However, we found Preidlhof an exception. The hotel’s state-of-the-art design masterfully conjures a romantic and relaxing mood. 

After checking in, we were invited to enjoy a drink and an aperitif on the hotel’s restaurant terrace. Unwinding with a glass of wine suited us just fine after spending the day in Brixen at its annual Bread & Strudel Market.

We sat above the leafy peaks of an apple orchard next to an olive tree with a massive, contorted trunk. Even its twisted form appeared relaxed here under the setting Tyrolean sun. 

Dolce Vita by Design

Preidlhof Hotel Room

We sipped the wine and mountain views for a while before the “Best Butler in the World”, Davide, graced us with his presence. He kindly gave us a brief tour of the hotel.

As he led us to our room, we inhaled sweet fragrances abounding from every nook and cranny. Just walking the hallways of Preidlhof is an engagement in aromatherapy.

Our room enchanted as much as the lobby and lounge. The decor and lighting evoked a romantic aesthetic. Artful accents of pink and lavender brightened the room.

Our room overlooked the Parish Church of St. Zeno — an historic treasure dating to the early Middle Ages.

On the terrace, a plush daybed waited for us to slip under a blanket and count the mountain crests beyond the valley floor. Above it was a warming lamp. Ah, romance made easy. We couldn’t wait to spend a candle-lit night sleeping under the stars. 

After situating ourselves, a long shower under tranquil blue lights with dual raindrop showerheads was too enticing to pass up. Next, we donned evening attire to dine in the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant….and perhaps enjoy another glass of wine or two while looking over a weekly resort program left conveniently in our room.

Dining at Preidlhof

Prior to arriving at Preidlhof, we read up on its restaurant. Gault Millau, a rating system used by fine food aficionados, awarded it two toques while Michelin awarded one star. Naturally, our expectations for culinary wizardry were quite high. Preidlhof did not disappoint.

Castel Juval Muller Thurgau

During our stay each dining experience was impeccable. From dish presentation to timing, service, size and flavor, the hotel’s restaurant ranks among the best we’ve visited in South Tyrol. Every evening was a feast. We enjoyed 7-course gourmet dinners with a recommended wine paired perfectly with the night’s menu.  

Whenever possible we try the local wine when eating out. On our first night, we ordered a bottle of Müller Thurgau, a delightfully complex white from Castel Juval. Castel Juval is a winery located on a mountain just west of Preidlhof. Its name comes from the castle that legendary mountaineer, Reinhold Messner, calls home. 

We didn’t finish the bottle at dinner but found it chilling at our table the following night. A pleasant surprise. Considerate touches such as this were common throughout our stay.

Preidlhof supports local South Tyrolean farmers and producers by incorporating their finest offerings in each dish. We could taste the love for the land in every bite. So much of what we ate was delightful, but the venison braised in Lagrein with cranberries, pumpkin risotto with glazed chestnuts, potato cream soup and carrot cream soup stood out as our favorites.

Ready to indulge? From 7-course dinners to gourmet buffets, Preidlhof uses the finest ingredients from local South Tyrol farmers and providers to ensure authentic farm-to-table dining experiences.

The desserts that brought the evening’s dining experience to a close were divine. Creatively prepared and presented, they intermingled sweet flavors in alluring ways without overwhelming richness.

The dining staff made our evenings even more satisfying. Matthias, the hotel’s sommelier, ensured our wine selections met expectations each night. His lighthearted demeanor was a constant joy. At one point he saw us snapping pictures of our dinner fare. He stopped by our table and jokingly threatened us with a copyright violation. He was certain Preidlhof copyrights each dish!

In addition to ordering off the menu, Preidlhof offers guests an open-air kitchen that every foodie will fall in love with.

Matthias also astutely explained the difference between Lagrein and Vernatsch (also called Schiava): “When you reach the mountain hut after a long hike and want to make the hike down, order Vernatsch. If you choose Lagrein, you better hope there’s a cable car to bring you back.” Wine wisdom none should ignore. 

The Spa Tower of Preidlhof

The following morning we enjoyed a delicious gourmet breakfast buffet. Practically every fruit, bread, pastry, Alpine cheese, homemade jam and honey one could fancy was for the tempting. Chefs were also on hand to make fresh egg dishes on the spot in an open show kitchen. Clearly, the toughest decisions guests face each day is at this buffet. We would have lingered longer to savor more of the morning spread if we didn’t have a tour scheduled of Preidlhof’s celebrated Spa Tower with Michael, the saunameister.

Calming sounds, melodies and vibrations swirled in symphonic unison pulling us deep into a journey where the mind was our guide. The sensory immersion was stunning.

Michael warmly met us with a big smile. His passion for wellness was immediately evident. He led us up through each of the Spa Tower’s six floors and explained how its saunas, relaxation rooms, lounge areas, jacuzzis and pools inspire unique ways to enliven your well-being.

We came away impressed by Preidlhof’s keen sense for thoughtful design. No matter where guests spend their time they are intimately immersed in nature. From floor-to-ceiling windows offering peaceful panoramic views to fragrant woods, oils, fruits and herbs to terraces where pure Alpine air nourishes your senses and the sun washes away worry, Preidlhof has taken every measure to imbue the elemental wonders of Earth to mend your mind, body and soul.

Wellness Awaits

Each room in Priedlhof’s Spa Tower offers a unique experience.

The number of possibilities to rest and rejuvenate in Preidlhof’s Spa Tower was dazzling. We were anxious to slip into the spa robes provided and begin.

As recommended by Michael, we began on the first floor in the Wine Sauna. It offers a highly-aromatic experience that emulates sitting in a bricked-wall wine cellar. Crimson lighting, soft as velvet, and the sweet scent of wine washed over us as we sat in silence. With a temperature of 70° C (158° F) and a humidity level of 35%, the sauna nicely balanced comfort with heat.

After 20 minutes or so we left the Wine Sauna and rinsed in a nearby shower before moving to the Steam Bath room.

In the center of the room, a salt crystal emanated light into the misty room, creating a trippy ambiance. We half expected to look through the billowing haze and see Jim Morrison sitting across from us. Turkish-influenced, the Steam Bath infuses brine with steam to promote healthier breathing. 

Infinite Illuminations

A one-of-a-kind experience, Preidlhof’s Deep Sea Relaxation Room immerses you in a soothing sea of lights and sound.

Next, we opted to take a break from the heat and relax in Preidlhof’s latest addition to the Spa Tower — the Deep Sea Relaxation Room. Designed by Daniel Lathan, a pioneer in audio and light, and touted as the future of relaxation, the room offers two programs. It was unlike anything we have ever experienced.

We selected the deep sea experience first and laid back on two beanbag loungers. Soon thousands of LED lights illuminated in infinite waves all around us. Calming sounds, melodies and vibrations swirled in symphonic unison pulling us deep into a journey where the mind was our guide. The sensory immersion was stunning.

After roughly 15-minutes the experience finished. We quickly checked to see if anyone was waiting outside to use the room next. We were in luck. The second program, “Nebula”, was even more fascinating. Instead of the depths of the ocean, it took us across space and time to the far reaches of the cosmos.

Relax. Recharge. Repeat

Swimming across oceans and deep space travel made us a bit hungry and thirsty so we wandered over to the Spa Tower’s Vitamin Lounge for some refreshments. We snacked on a handful of fruits, nuts, speck and cheese and washed them down with a couple of glasses of herb-infused water. The Vitamin Lounge is another thoughtful touch for guests that we appreciated.

At the other end of the Vitamin Lounge is the Salt Lounge. Since it was nearby and empty we decided to take a seat. Our timing must have been just right because on other visits the room was full. We laid back on large loungers inhaling the fine mist from the glowing salt walls. Built-in infrared lamps lasered radiant heat over our spinal cords. The warmth summoned soothing sensations making it clear why the room is so popular. 

Healing Views

The sweeping view from Preidlhof’s infinity pool is enough to mend your mind, body and soul all on its own.

Fully reinvigorated, we marched to the rooftop for a dip in the Spa Tower’s infinity sky pool. An autumn breeze put a slight chill in the air. We didn’t waste any time making a splash. The warm salty water of the pool wrapped around us like a blanket. A lovely reprieve from the mountain’s frosty breath.

Soothing oils caressed our skin allowing the polished gemstones to gently sail the contours of our bodies. Tranquil sensations of warmth and cold massaged one muscle end to the other. Pacifying tensions one by one.

We waded to the pool’s edge and in stillness admired the Ortler Alps beyond the vast expanse of Val Venosta / Vinschgau Valley. The Ortler range is the highest in South Tyrol and likely once the stomping grounds of Ötzi, Bolzano’s most celebrated resident.

With such stunning views, not coming up here under a moonlit night would be an insult to the annals of romance. We promised ourselves to return to the sky pool later that evening. 

After rinsing away the salt water and slipping back into our robes again we laid down on a rooftop bed for a while before continuing our sauna adventure in the Olive Sauna. This was, without a doubt, our favorite sauna experience. The smell upon entering it is one of the most pleasing aromas one could ever encounter. The warm richness of olive wood was heavenly. And at a temperature of 60° C (140° F) with a humidity level of 40% it was perfectly tuned to allow long sessions of gazing over apple orchards and the land’s other Mediterranean blessings.

Once the Olive Sauna thoroughly worked its meditative magic we ducked into an adjacent shower zone for another rinse. If you like long showers, you’ll want to linger here. We stood under a raindrop shower head where warm water was not its only gift. Lavish scents of mango and eucalyptus also rained down. The freshness was exhilarating. We wondered how to bring such an aromatic treasure into our home. 

Preidlhof’s Oliva Sauna pairs sweeping views with calm-inducing aroma therapy.

Next, we thought a seat in one of the Spa Tower’s relaxation rooms was due. The cozy Fire Lounge bestowed more dreamlike views, but we let the hypnotic dance of fireplace flames hold our gaze until sleep took over.

Our fire-induced nap was brief. The promise of a gourmet lunch buffet was a persistent alarm clock. Funny how delectable cuisine tends to do that. We went back to our rooms to change even though Preidlhof allows guests to enjoy a casual lunch in their spa robes.    

Candlelight Massages

With lunch and our Spa Tower adventure behind us, our next stop was the Preidlhof Med-Spa & Beauty Center. An award-winning wellness refuge, the number of treatments, massages and therapies available is remarkable and a touch overwhelming. We asked for help to decide what to partake in as a couple.

Preidlhof-Spa-Resort

Claudia Köllemann, Preidlhof’s Spa Director, suggested their Welch precious stone massage for two. We didn’t have previous experience with a stone massage so took her recommendation.

The Welch precious stone massage is a unique spa treatment that brings together the benefits of classical massage with the natural healing properties of oils and gemstones.

We entered a room softly-lit by candlelight. The masseuses, Annemarie and Walter, quietly gave instructions and politely left until we were lying face down on two massage tables. 

Our massages began with gentle and graceful movements, working up from our feet and legs to our back and eventually over our torso and neck. Soothing oils caressed our skin allowing the polished gemstones to gently sail the contours of our bodies. Tranquil sensations of warmth and cold massaged one muscle end to the other. Pacifying tensions one by one. Seemingly floating around our tables, the masseuses silent, ritualistic manners subdued our busy minds. We both fell into a deep state of relaxation under the spell of songs by Enya and Laura McKennitt.

The Pools of Preidlhof

We left the Med-Spa & Beauty Center and were tempted to embark on a hike through the surrounding vineyards and orchards. Instead, we opted to explore the immaculate gardens and pools of the property. As you’ll find, once at Preidlhof, it’s hard to leave.

We headed back to our room, lit a candle on the balcony and fell onto the daybed to watch stars light up the night sky.

The resort’s 6 pools and 5 jacuzzis, beautifully interwoven under palm, cypress, lemon, olive trees and fragrant flowers, make lounging a wellness treatment of its own. Even better, the pools are spread out nicely. We never felt crowded in any of them.

Preidlhof’s pools are a sun lover’s paradise.

We found the main waterfall feature especially divine. It hides a hidden pool area that can only be accessed by passing under a stone arch. Wading through to this pool was like finding a private lagoon.

Next to the waterfall, we also noticed a chance for another sweat in a sauna.

The Schwarzbrenner Sauna is tucked into the stone walls of the waterfall. Whereas the Spa Tower saunas are sleek and elegant, the Schwarzbrenner is warmly rustic.

Its cozy 60° C (140° F) temperature made it easy for us to sit for an extended time without needing a cool-off. The sauna’s convenient location was perfect for a quick warm-up while darting between pools.

Preidlhof’s Best-Kept Secret

After our final sauna experience, we ventured to the resort’s indoor pool environment called “The 50th”. Walking in was like discovering Preidlhof’s best-kept secret.

We had the whole area to ourselves. Colorful ambient lighting, linear fireplaces and vintage imagery gave the room a fun, eclectic vibe.

We waded in to relax under the dancing flames and watch the shadows ripple endlessly over the walls. Next, we plopped down on bed-sized swings and swayed carefree.

Across from the pool, futuristic relaxation pods built into the wall invited more rest. We couldn’t resist.

Riding the winds of the mind.

Inside was entrancing. The acoustics of the pod amplified the sound of the water gently splashing the pool’s edge. We wished we had brought a book with us to read. These futuristic nooks are where imagination can run wild.

Preidlhof Med-Spa & Beauty Center Experience

Ensuring a healthy whole body and mind connection to nature is important to us. In fact, much of our passion for South Tyrol is due to all it offers in that respect. So when we learned of Preidlhof’s holistic health evaluation offering we were curious.

The next morning we returned to the Med-Spa & Beauty Center. We met with resident health expert, Dr. Alexander Angerer, for a Heart Rate Variability (HRV) session. Using the latest in holistic diagnosis technology and software, he attached a measurement device to each wrist and instructed us to lie down on an examination bed and relax.  And within five or so minutes we were reviewing results on a computer screen. He walked through conceptualizations of the findings, which measured our heart rate variability, nervous system health, energy efficiency and more.  

After he was sure we understood the report, he gave guidance on how to reduce daily stress levels, as well as optimize our body’s ability to improve our overall well-being. The 30-minute session was quite eye-opening for both of us.

Our morning continued in Preidlhof’s Med Spa & Beauty Center with facial treatments. Each session was individually tailored. One to reduce the signs of premature aging in men by applying specialized Spanish botanical extracts, and the other to induce deep regeneration of the skin through the 5 elements of nature, biorhythmic stimulation and a clay facial mask. We found both treatments sublime and recommend them if you’re interested in beauty care in addition to wellness.

A Night Under the Stars

Splashing from pool to pool and taking in the radiance of the sun soaked up the rest of our morning. 

In the afternoon, we left Preidlhof for the first time since arriving. Hiking up to Castle Juval had been on our wishlist ever since discovering it was a part of the Messner Mountain Museum. The hike was exhausting, but the historic haunt at the mountain’s summit combined with sweeping valley views made the adventure well worth it.

Returning in the late afternoon the soulfulness of the indoor pool area caught our fancy again. We dropped in for a dip before enjoying our final 7-course dinner with a couple of glasses of Vernatsch from Rebhof Kastelbell, another local gem from the Val Venosta / Vinschgau Valley.

By the time we savored the last bites of dessert, yawns began to steal away the evening. The day had thoroughly worn us out. We headed back to our room, lit a candle on the balcony and fell onto the daybed to watch stars light up the night sky. A perfect romantic end to a stay we will never forget.

Tips for Your Stay at Preidlhof

The following are our top tips for enjoying your time at Preidlhof:

  • Engage with other guests in the evening. Many of the guests will be German-speaking, but we found many knew English well enough to have an enjoyable conversation.
  • The wine recommendations are well-paired with the menu each night. You can’t go wrong with them, but if you desire something in particular be sure to ask Preidlhof’s sommelier, Matthias. He is a wealth of knowledge.
  • Look for the “Südtirol” logo next to the food in the buffet. This designates the item as a local specialty. Be sure to try all the cheeses and bread. You’ll find new favorites.
  • Much of the Spa Tower is a nudist zone. Such areas will be designated by signage indicating “F.K.K. and “Zona nudista”. If nakedness bothers you, visit the Spa Tower early in the day or late in the evening when it is least busy. Areas, where you are required to wear a spa kilt (provided by Preidlhof), is designated by “Textile Bereich” and “zona con costume”. Don’t worry about being nude in front of strangers. This is one of the most non-judgmental places you could ever visit.
  • To reap the full wellness benefits of a sauna experience, plan to spend at least 2 hours in the Spa Tower.
  • The Infinity Sky Pool also has sitting areas where you can lay back and turn on jacuzzi jets. At night there is nothing more relaxing.
  • The Spa Tower and pools are amazing, but plan time for the PREIDL Med-Spa & Beauty Center. The number of treatments available is remarkable. Ask for guidance if you’re not sure what sounds most appealing.
  • Ask for a tour of Preidlhof’s wine cellar. It’s a rustic gem with vintages going back decades. Preidlhof goes through 12,000 bottles each year!
  • Make time to participate in a sauna infusion experience in the Event Sauna. We missed this with our schedule and regret not partaking in this unique ritual.
  • If the weather allows it, spend a night under the stars on the daybed on your room’s terrace.
  • Unless you’re scheduling time with a trainer for a specific session, skip the workout area located below the spa tower. If you’re pining for a vigorous workout, get outside. Go for a hike in the mountains or check out one of the hotel’s mountain bikes to spin around the vineyards and orchards of Naturns. A large trail map by the garage entrance identifies several routes you can take.
  • When it comes to breakfast and dinner, Preidlhof seats you at the same table each day. During lunch, you can wear your spa robes, but in the evening plan to dress up as if you’re heading out.

For more information on how to get to South Tyrol, travel guides, planning checklists, saving money on your adventure and more, access our free South Tyrol Travel Resource Library.

Thank you Preidlhof and your amazing staff for hosting us during the lovely autumn season in Naturns!

Filed Under: Recommended Accommodations Tagged With: Alpine Wellness, South Tyrol Accommodations

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