South Tyrol Cuisine

Savor the Mountain: 10 Must-Try Foods in South Tyrol

Updated: December 14, 2021

South Tyrol’s delectable nature soars far beyond its epic mountains, lakes and castles. Discover the iconic foods to savor while adventuring in the culinary star of Italy.

WITH MORE THAN 300 mountain peaks steeping the skies of South Tyrol, you can count on working up a mountain-size appetite while bounding from one valley to the next. Fortunately, for us, South Tyroleans shine at satisfying hunger in the most spectacular ways.

Here, Austrian, Italian and Ladin culinary traditions rub elbows creating an enthralling gastronomic tapestry unlike anywhere else in the world. Every dish in South Tyrol tells a rousing tale often rooted hundreds of years in the past.

In this article, we highlight the classic South Tyrolean cuisine you’ll want to try when visiting. Whether you are hiking in the Dolomites or skiing high above Merano, these delicious dishes will make you view eating in South Tyrol as a thrilling adventure all its own.

Knödel (Canederli)

Savor the Mountain: 10 Must-Try Foods in South Tyrol 2 — Knödel Tris served with a drizzling of butter and Parmesan.

When a dish has been a favorite in the Alps since the Middle Ages, you know it has to be belly rubbing good. A medieval fresco on the weathered walls of the 12th-century chapel at Hocheppan Castle depicts a happy chap devouring a pot of knödel.

Knödel is bread dumplings flavored with a host of herbs and specialties. The dish can be found in restaurants and mountainside taverns all over South Tyrol. It is served as a starter, as its own entree, or as a side complement to other Alpine dishes.

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Our favorite knödel dish is Knödel Tris, a triple dumpling wonder comprised of a spinach dumpling (spinatknödel), cheese dumpling (käseknödel) and a speck dumpling (speckknödel). Another variation of knödel is Speckknödelsuppe — a bacon dumpling soup sure to warm the soul after a chilly hike.

Knödel even makes it onto the dessert menu in South Tyrol. If you skipped dumplings on your main course, order a dessert knödel dish where you can savor dumplings filled with everything from jam to chocolate and vanilla sauce.

By the way, no matter what kind of knödel you order, never cut it with a knife. That will offend the chef. Knödel should only be enjoyed with a fork.

Schlutzkrapfen (Mezzelune)

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Schlutzkrapfen is the first South Tyrolean pasta dish we fell in love with. It is a delicious dinner-time favorite that never fails to wow us. Like knödel, Schlutzkrapfen is served as a starter or a stand-alone entree.

Schlutzkrapfen is a ravioli dish originating in South Tyrol more than 300 years ago in Val Pusteria. The dough is typically made from rye or buckwheat flour with finely chopped spinach, onion, garlic and ricotta cheese filling the pocket. A sprinkling of chopped chives, parsley and grated Parmesan cheese along with a drizzling of melted brown butter top the half-moon pasta.

You can also find Schlutzkrapfen filled with potato, meat, mushrooms, nettles or turnips. To fully savor Schlutzkrapfen, it is recommended to cut the pasta in half with your fork, let it slide into your mouth and allow the filling to melt on your tongue.

Marende

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It is said a true South Tyrolean eats five times a day: early-morning breakfast, mid-morning breakfast, lunch, mid-afternoon snack and dinner. The mid-afternoon sitdown includes a South Tyrolean Marende and a glass of light-bodied red wine, typically Vernatsch (also known as Schiava).

The Marende is a cold-cut specialty traditionally served on a wooden board known as a “brettl”. It consists of speck (South Tyrol’s famous mountain-smoked ham), Kaminwurzen (a dry-smoked sausage, schüttelbrot (a spiced crispy flatbread) and a handful of sliced Alpine cheese. Fortunately, Marende is not only for afternoons. You can order a board or platter at virtually any time of day throughout South Tyrol.

We recommend enjoying Marende as an appetizer or snack. Another good option is to toss some schüttelbrot, Kaminwurzen along with a few South Tyrolean apples in your backpack before hiking. After a steep climb, we love snacking on these goodies while taking a breather.

Spinatspatspazlen mit Schinken-Käsesauce

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Spinatspatspazlen mit Schinken-Käsesauce is a mouthful to order off the menu if German does not roll easily off your tongue. But oh is it worth the effort!

This hearty dish is spinach spaetzle with ham and cheese sauce. It is a wonderful full-flavored choice as your main course.

Thankfully for us, the first time we ate Spinatspatspazlen mit Schinken-Käsesauce was at a friend’s mountain cabin so we didn’t have to bumble through the pronunciation in front of a waiter. But since then, whenever we want to revisit this South Tyrolean classic we make an honest attempt then simply point to it on the menu. You can do the same.

Spaghetti Bolognese mit Speck

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In case you thought South Tyrol is not in Italy, Spaghetti Bolognese mit Speck will convince you otherwise. When we are lusting after a traditional Italian red sauce pasta dish, we order up a plate of this twirl-worthy fare.

In our opinion, Spaghetti Bolognese mit Speck is better than the Bolognese dishes you find from Venice to Italy’s boot. Why? The addition of South Tyrolean speck with minced beef or pork adds a hint of smoky flavor. Each savory forkful is like the mountain speaking to you.

The best place to eat Spaghetti Bolognese mit Speck? Any mountain hut where you still have a long trek ahead of you. After a hefty helping, you are going to want to burn off the rich pasta well before settling in for dinner.

Bauerngröstl

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Bauerngröstl is a simple South Tyrolean dish that is how it looks: meat and potatoes. What makes it special? The way it is prepared, seasoned and served with the perfect garnishments.

Finely chopped garlic and onions are sautéd in an iron skillet with olive oil and butter. Sliced beef, salt and pepper, marjoram and a bay leaf are then added followed by a drizzle of white wine and the sliced potatoes.

If you need a break from pasta or knödel, Bauerngröstl is a mouthwatering alternative you will come to crave. Especially after a grueling hike.

Spargel mit Bozner (Asparagi alla Bolzano)

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When walking the street food markets of Bolzano, Brixen, Merano and beyond during the height of spring, you will see stands showcasing bundles upon bundles of fresh spargel (asparagus). South Tyroleans adore this vegetable. But what they adore even more is Bozner sauce, which is liberally poured over the top of the asparagus spears.

Savor the Mountain: 10 Must-Try Foods in South Tyrol 10 — Spargel mit Bozner can be enjoyed on its own or with other specialties.

Bozner sauce is a sinfully delicious concoction that originated in Bolzano. It is a delicacy made with eggs, mustard, salt, pepper, chives, fresh squeezed lemon juice and butter. Quite often when ordering Spargel mit Bozner, it will be served with a side cup of Bozner sauce allowing you to fully indulge in its goodness.

While Spargel mit Bozner is best enjoyed in spring, plan on trying it no matter when you visit South Tyrol. Like us, you will probably wonder why this dish has not landed on menus all over the world. And like us, we bet you will be seeking out the Bozner sauce recipe when you return home.

Hirtenmakkaroni (Maccheroni del Pastore)

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Those preferring penne over spaghetti are in for a real treat in South Tyrol. Hirtenmakkaroni, meaning Sheperd’s Macaroni, is a creamy rich pasta masterpiece that is relished in mountain huts and taverns throughout the Dolomites.

While not a true macaroni dish as it uses penne rigate instead of macaroni noodles, Hirtenmakkaroni typically includes a minced meat Ragu sauce rather than a Bolognese sauce and is mixed with speck, cream, mushrooms and peas. The pasta is topped with freshly grated Parmesan, finely chopped chives and parsley.

We have enjoyed this dish many times and have encountered variations of the classic. Most common is without peas or mushrooms and sometimes chopped ham is included with the speck or in place of the speck. If you are wondering what this dish has to do with shepherds, so are we.

Tiroler Pizza (Tyrolese)

Tiroler pizza is the Alpine version of Italy’s most iconic food. These tasty wood-fired pies are mountainized with slices of South Tyrolean speck. In addition, Tiroler pizza is made with tomato sauce, oregano, mozzarella and Gorgonzola.

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Other common toppings include spinach, mushrooms and prosciutto for those wanting their pizza to pack an even meatier punch. Of course if you want to add onions, peppers or any other pizza favorites you can do that as well.

When it comes to ordering Tiroler pizza, you may have to search for it on the menu. Pizzerias often include multiple pies with speck as an ingredient. Additional names for speck-heavy pizza that we have encountered include Jägerpizza (Hunter’s pizza) and Bauernpizza (Farmer’s pizza).

A few of our favorite pizza places in South Tyrol include Restaurant Pizzeria Rustika in Villanders, Oachner Wirt in Völs am Schlern and Römerkeller Pizzaria in Algund. However, no matter where go for pizza in the region you are certain to leave more than satisfied.

Törggelen

The final item on our must-try foods in South Tyrol list is not a food at all, but a feast. Törggelen is a centuries-old rural tradition in South Tyrol that celebrates the season’s wine harvest. It is known as South Tyrol’s 5th season and begins in October and runs to the start of the Christmas season.

Pfefferlechner in Lana — If you plan to be in South Tyrol in autumn, make sure you experience Törggelen.

During Törggelen, South Tyrol’s mountainside farmers reveal their newest wines. These evening gatherings take place in a farmhouse tavern known as a “Buschenschank”. The feast celebrates all the rustic deliciousness of South Tyrolean fare.

A typical Törggelen dinner includes multiple courses. The feast begins with roasted chestnuts served with the season’s new wine. This is followed by pumpkin and barley soup, speck, knödel, Schlutzkrapfen and a grand platter of smoked sausages, pork and ham topping a bed of sauerkraut. To learn more about partaking in this feast, check out our article about enjoying Törggelen in Villanders.

Savoring the Mountain

This South Tyrolean food guide is far from comprehensive, but we hope it gives you a taste of what popular dishes to sample during your holiday in South Tyrol. In a future article, we will dive into the South Tyrolean desserts you will not be able to resist. For now, we will simply let your mouth water over these culinary treasures. Bon appétit!

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Pfefferlechner: Tapping into South Tyrol’s Tavern Culture

Updated: December 19, 2021

Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery is far more than a charming place to eat and drink — it is a culturally engaging experience you will cherish. Find out why an evening here should be on your South Tyrol trip itinerary.

WHEN IT COMES to a night out, nothing is more quintessentially South Tyrolean than an evening of revelry paired with hearty fare and delicious drink at a rustic tavern. Such fire-lit merriment has tamed appetites and kindled bellows of good cheer over the Alps for centuries.

Fortunately, as we discovered, you do not have to be a local to partake in these festive affairs. Establishments like the Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery (Buschenschank & Hausbrauerei) in the mountainside town of Lana light the torch of South Tyrol’s tavern culture for all.

Serenely Rustic

Visiting Pfefferlechner is a mouthwatering journey to a simpler time. Amid the age-scorned stone walls of a farm dating to 1279, the tavern and brewery nestles you in a rustic setting that is a welcomed refuge from urbanized life.

How rustic, might you ask? Well, in one of the tavern’s main stuben, you can dine with a window view to a stable where a pony or a goat may eye your appetizers or maybe it’s your beer?

Pfefferlechner: Tapping into South Tyrol's Tavern Culture 24 — A family affair — the Laimers’ have operated Pfefferlechner for more than 40 years.

But, if dining under the curious gaze of farm animals is not your idea of farm-to-table, not to worry. Pfefferlechner also offers lovely seating in many other nature-inspired nooks including a cozy courtyard canopied by gnarls of vines and a lively beer garden framed by tall, leafy lime trees.

No matter where you choose to unwind, Pfefferlechner’s comfy vibe instills a sense of intimacy. From your first visit, you will adore its inviting rooms and patios.

This mastery in the art of ambiance is owed to the Laimer family. Their passion for treating guests to a heart-warming culinary experience has vaulted Pfefferlechner to a must-dine landmark in South Tyrol.

In fact, Pfefferlechner was recently awarded the 2020 Travelers’ Choice Award from TripAdvisor. This coveted award spotlights the very best destinations based on user reviews and ratings.

Refreshment for the Soul

Pfefferlechner: Tapping into South Tyrol's Tavern Culture 25 — A seasonal favorite of Pfefferlechner is its chestnut beer.

Walking into Pfefferlechner you could easily assume the old-world farmhouse ambiance is what makes the tavern bustle. But that would only be because you have not let your lips savor a freshly poured beer yet.

The craft beer of Pfefferlechner is the gold of the Alps. This becomes apparent before you even belly up to the bar. Brew kettles clad in copper cast gilded hues over the brewery — leaving no doubt that what you’re about to taste is treasured.

Beyond offering generous pours, Pfefferlechner is also generous in sharing its brewing passion with guests. On-staff brew maestros like Francesco Giacomelli walk through how they transform locally-grown barley, malt, yeast and pure mountain-born water into aromatic ales that delight on their own or with a meal.

After voyaging through the evolution of Pfefferlechner’s prize-winning beer, the real fun begins with a grand tasting. The sampling spans a variety of light to dark Pfeffer beers including the brewery’s thirst-quenching pilsner, bright pale ale and its ambered chestnut beer — a smoky smooth seasonal brew that you will come to crave every autumn.

In addition, you can also taste the first non-alcoholic beer brewed in South Tyrol. Branded “FRE [E] DL“, this flavorful IPA-like gem is available in mountain huts making it a smart go-to when taking a break from the kind of hiking, biking or skiing requiring ever-steady legs.

Deliciously Robust & Rural

No surprise, the same delicious magic Pfefferlechner conjures in the glass is also spun on the plate. The kitchen of Pfefferlechner dishes up robust South Tyrolean flavors using only regional products and fresh garden-gathered herbs.

On Pfefferlechner’s menu, you’ll find a bevy of traditional dishes embodying the best of the land. We recommend beginning your night with an appetizer called The Brettlemarende. This South Tyrolean favorite consists of speck and Kaminwurz sausage served with Alpine cheeses, radish and potatoes.

For your main course, we doubt you could go wrong with any item on the menu. We have loved every meal here. Our last dinner at Pfefferlechner was an autumn feast. We relished rich pumpkin soup, chestnut risotto (a must-try) and a hearty grilled meat platter.

The tavern’s most popular dishes include its knödel, pork knuckle and spare ribs, which is the personal favorite of Francesco, the master brewer. You can also find gluten-free and vegetarian options if desired.

Pfefferlechner Schnapps — Sip like a South Tyrolean. Every dinner should conclude with a snort of schnapps.

If you have trouble pinpointing what to order, Pfefferlechner’s friendly staff is always willing to help. They also can suggest great beer pairings with your meal.

After such a sumptuous dinner, skipping dessert seems far more sinful than partaking in its sweet goodness. Pfefferlechner offers all the region’s classics from buchteln, strauben, apple strudel and more.

The tavern also tenders a novel take on tiramisu. Called “Birramisù”, Pfefferlechner imparts a smooth malty twist to a traditional Italian after-dinner treat.

Regardless of whether you order dessert, you should not depart your dinner table until you have sipped Pfefferlechner’s homemade schnapps. This digestif staple of South Tyrolean tavern culture is the only fitting way to end your night.

When to Visit Pfefferlechner Tavern & Brewery

Pfefferlechner: Tapping into South Tyrol's Tavern Culture 44 — Pfefferlechner’s beer garden is an ideal gathering place for friends, families and couples alike.

The most important thing to note about visiting Pfefferlechner is that the establishment is not open year round. The tavern and brewery closes for most of the winter.

However, if adventuring in South Tyrol from April through mid-December you are in luck. Plan your visit from after 4 p.m. on Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday or from 12:00 p.m. on Sundays.

We recommend making reservations especially if you have larger group. But if you do have to wait for seating, consider taking a stroll through Pfefferlechner’s adorable on-site petting zoo. Any little ones with you will undoubtedly fall in love with a fluffy rabbit or two.

Pfefferlechner: Tapping into South Tyrol's Tavern Culture 45 — Prost!

If you are in South Tyrol during its famous 5th season — the heart of autumn — you can enjoy Pfefferlechner’s rustic take on Törggelen. Beginning in early October, seasonal dishes and specialties such as roasted chestnuts are made available. This is also the time you will find the tasty chestnut beer on tap.

Live music is also a frequent occurrence at Pfefferlechner in its beer garden and cellar. To discover when live music is scheduled, we suggest visiting Pfefferlechner’s Facebook page.

We would like to give a big thank you to the Laimer family, Francesco Giacomelli and the rest of the tavern team for sharing the magic of Pfefferlechner with us!

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Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites

Updated: December 18, 2021

How does a South Tyrolean restaurant boasting one of the most spectacular mountain vistas in the world win your heart? One bite at a time.

NO ONE WOULD fault Malga Schgaguler Schwaige if it rested on its laurels and let its jaw-dropping views do all the wowing. After all, the spellbinding sight of the Sassolungo Group storming over the billowy hills of Europe’s largest Alpine pasture — Alpe di Siusi — is enough to make any hiker forget their hunger.

But sitting back allowing the mountains to do most of the work is not in Walter and Martina Demetz’s character. A husband and wife team operating Malga Schgaguler Schwaige since 2016, they delight guests with sumptuous culinary creations and friendly down-to-earth service that makes you feel right at home.

We first experienced the charm of Malga Schgaguler Schwaige a few years ago on a spring hike across Alpe di Siusi. The dishes we enjoyed that day introduced us to the delectable wonders of homemade Alpine cuisine.

This past fall we had the pleasure of visiting Malga Schgaguler Schwaige again. We sat down with Walter to discover the story behind his cuisine and what it takes to run a remarkable restaurant in the Dolomites.

Where Rural Roots Run Deep

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 48 — The security team at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

The late Anthony Bourdain once said, “food, culture, people and landscape are all absolutely inseparable”. That sentiment could not ring more true than it does at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

Founded by Walter’s father and mother in 1991, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige offers traditional South Tyrolean dishes and specialties fresh from the family farm. Nearly all the restaurant’s ingredients — from milk and butter to eggs and cheese to speck and beef — are homegrown.

Sixty-four acres of pastureland surround Malga Schgaguler Schwaige where 15-20 cows enjoy the famous Alpine hay and herbs of Alpe di Siusi. The cows share their leafy bounty with a motley crew of other farm animals including horses, llamas, donkeys, pigs, chickens, peacocks, ducks, rabbits, sheep and a chill gang of goats that will bring a wide grin to your face when you meet them.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 49 — Other hikers are not the only souls you’ll encounter on a visit to Malga Schgaguler Schwaige.

Many of these extended members of Walter and Martina’s family roam freely on the grounds beneath the restaurant entertaining guests with their antics, chirps and chatter. In fact, children can dart around with them in a play area that includes a wooden tractor, playground set, sandbox, foosball table and a tempting trampoline.

By 7 a.m. Walter brings the cows down to the pastureland where they graze the day away until he corrals them back in the early evening.

Walking the farm with Walter, it is immediately evident that his passion for serving delicious dishes begins with a passion for his land and the farm animals he raises. He ensures the animals enjoy a free-range environment where they can thrive as stress-free as possible.

The result? Food that fully reveals robust and fresh flavors as nature intended. By following true farm-to-table tenets and not the latest culinary craze, Malga Schgagular Schwaige instills its dishes with an authentic spirit we find increasingly rare in the world today.

From Farm to Family

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 50 — Walter and Martina’s little helpers — Lea and Anna.

Walter, Martina and their three children, Lea, Anna and Max, live on the farm in a home adjoining the restaurant. All support the business albeit the youngsters can only serve up ample amounts of good cheer for now.

From 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Martina and Walter’s mother, Christine, conjures culinary magic in the kitchen while Walter and a staff member, Romina, tackle serving the guests. However, the hard work to make Malga Schgaguler Schwaige operate smoothly day after day begins much earlier.

As Walter shared with us, running a restaurant is much like orchestrating a concert: a mountain of work takes place prior to the show and backstage that the audience never sees. A typical day begins at the crack of dawn with farm work.

Schgugaler Schwaige Kitchen — Family rules the mountain kitchen. Martina, Christine, Walter and the family’s newest addition, Max, welcome guests with infectious smiles.

By 7 a.m. Walter brings the cows down to the pastureland where they graze the day away until he corrals them back in the early evening. The rest of the morning is dedicated to tending to the other farm animals, maintaining their property and prepping the day’s mouthwatering ingredients. In the summer, during hay cutting season, the days begin even earlier usually around 5:30 a.m. with non-stop work until 9:30 p.m.

In the wood-clad menus dotting the tables, you will discover a rich assortment of classic South Tyrolean cuisine to reward tired legs.

Of course, all that tiring work does not come without its rewards. When asked about his favorite season on Alpe di Siusi. Walter responded “every day!”. He noted a day does not go by without taking a moment to admire the breathtaking beauty of the mountains — especially in the early morning and at dusk when he has much of the pastureland to himself.

Taming Hooves & Steel

While free time is luxury when operating a farmhouse restaurant, Walter does find time to train for and race his horse, Buddy, in a traditional South Tyrolean event called the Oswald von Wolkenstein Ride. This annual tournament involves a series of horse rides and challenges that take place at four nearby castles.

In addition to horse riding and chasing his children around, Walter enjoys hitting the slopes and restoring old cars and motorcycles. When riding a horse isn’t possible, he also likes to gallop his Harley Davidson across the Alp.

The mountain hut itself has undergone many renovations since his grandfather built it in 1967. Walter envisions continuing to expand the farm and restaurant.

In the not-to-distant future, he would like to elevate the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige experience further by adding another stable. His hope is to make it a place where guests can also educate themselves about sustainable farming practices on the Alpe di Siusi.

Dining at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

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Once you take a seat on the flower-drenched terrace of Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the enticing aromas swirling out of the kitchen eventually peel your eyes away from the mountain scenery. In the wood-clad menus dotting the tables, you will discover a rich assortment of classic South Tyrolean cuisine to reward tired legs.

We suggest beginning with a bowl of Speckknödelsuppe or a cheese and speck platter. Both are divine. These traditional South Tyrolean specialties have been passed down from one generation to the next for centuries.

Diving in you discover the warm chocolate filling of each dumpling.

If you are craving something less hearty you can also opt for a generous plate of Pasta Bolognese. After devouring your starter, consider the Frankfurter Sausage with Polenta or Beef Goulash with Cheese Knödel. Regardless, you will relish the mountain’s heart and soul in every tender bite.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 52 — Malga Schgaguler Schwaige serves up homemade hearty goodness every mountain and food lover should try.

If you have room for dessert (you absolutely should leave room for dessert), lavish your sweet tooth with Homemade Cream Cheese Dumplings. This sinful treat is like a present. Diving in you discover the warm chocolate filling of each dumpling. It will dazzle your eyes and mouth.

Another after-dinner delight to try is Kaiserschmarrn mit Preiselbeermarmelade. This pancake dessert topped with cranberry jam is a personal favorite of Walter’s. But if you’re aching for Apple Strudel, no worries. You can get that as well with a decadent vanilla sauce.

Interior Decor at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

The restaurant also offers indoor seating in a cozy setting that allows for an intimate meal and drink among friends and family. Even if you can’t see the Sassolungo Group from inside, the charming Alpine decor throughout will leave no doubt you’re feasting amid the Dolomites.

How to Visit Malga Schgaguler Schwaige

The easiest way to visit Malga Schgaguler Schwaige is by taking the Mont Sëuc Cable Car to Alpe di Siusi from Ortisei. From the cable car station, it is a 10-minute hike to the restaurant.

If you choose to hike across Alpe di Siusi from Compatsch instead, follow trail no. 30 and then hop on trail no. 9. You will spot Malga Schgaguler Schwaige perched on a hillside above the Sporthotel Sonne.

Drinking Beer at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige — Good food is always accompanied by good cheer.

Like all mountain huts in South Tyrol, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige operates on a seasonal basis. For the summer season, the restaurant typically resumes operation at the end of May after shutting down when the ski season is over in mid-April.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige remains open through the summer and fall until the first week of November. The restaurant then closes until early December when it reopens for an Italian holiday. After Christmas and New Years, Malga Schgaguler Schwaige continues serving snow lovers through the winter months and the first part of spring.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 53 — Little Max steals the scene in this shot!

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige: Farm Fresh Feasting in the Dolomites 54

While we have only enjoyed lunches at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige, the restaurant opens at 9 a.m. allowing you to savor a delicious breakfast of freshly plucked farm eggs. Could there be any better way to start a day?

Walter and his team close each day at 5 p.m. Undoubtedly, you may find it hard to pull yourself away from the spectacular views and food. But as the song Closing Time goes, “you don’t have to go home but you can’t stay here.”

Follow Malga Schgaguler Schwaige on Facebook and Instagram to keep up with the Demetzs!

We would like to give Walter and his family a special thanks for spending time and sharing their story with us. We can’t wait to return!

A Feast for Your Senses: Discover the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

Updated: December 18, 2021

CRISPY OR SOFT? Salty or sweet? Plain or bedazzled? However you like your baked goods, a trip to South Tyrol is not complete without indulging in the heavenly goodness kneaded and rolled within its bakeries. South Tyroleans are masters at crafting fields of wheat, barley and rye into enticing creations of pure culinary magic.

Swing into a village “backerei” (bakery) or stroll through one of the many daily food markets dotting the land and you’ll discover ample opportunities to sample South Tyrol’s baked specialties. But if you really want to appreciate the region’s centuries-old baking traditions, the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market in Brixen (Bressanone) is a must-attend festival.

This delicious autumn celebration takes place the first weekend of each October in one of the most picturesque squares in South Tyrol — the Piazza del Duomo. There’s nothing quite like being able to touch, smell and taste countless baked goods while wandering amid splendid antiquity.

Delight Yourself in Brixen

Brixen is a natural choice to show off the oven-tending talents of South Tyroleans. This ancient town reigns as the cultural heart of the Valle Iscarco (Eisacktal Valley). And it is also home to one of its most endearing culinary traditions: Törggelen.

With more than 1,000 years of history echoing over its cobblestones, Brixen is the oldest town in South Tyrol. The golden-towered Cathedral of Brixen soars over the square offering a jaw-dropping backdrop for bakers and festival revelers alike.

Upon entering the piazza you could simply bask happily in the wood-fired bread aromas billowing into the sky. But the real joy comes when you succumb to the sweet temptations all around you.

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South Tyrolean Baked Goods — The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market showcases bread and baked goods from 18 bakeries around South Tyrol.

The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market hosts 18 baked goods stands throughout the square. These inviting displays showcase the special concoctions of bakers from rural mountain valleys throughout South Tyrol. You’ll encounter baked delights born from age-old family recipes only known to a few.

The best way to enjoy the market is to leisurely walk the square discovering the fanciful flavors of traditional South Tyrolean favorites such as schüttelbrot (a crispy flatbread made from rye), krapfen (a doughnut-like pastry), apfelstrudel (apple strudel), Pusterer breatl (a special loaf from Puster Valley), Vingschger paarl (rye rolls from Vinschgau valley) and much more.

Upon entering the piazza you could simply bask happily in the wood-fired bread aromas billowing into the sky. But the real joy comes when you succumb to the sweet temptations all around you.

We were astonished by the number of unique baked specialties originating from South Tyrol. In fact, a quick flip through the definitive cookbook of South Tyrol, Alpine Flavours, reveals more than 20 individual baked goods recipes from the region. If you have an interest in embarking on South Tyrolean culinary adventures in your own kitchen, we highly recommend adding this cookbook to your shelf.

Demonstrating making dough in Brixen — Beyond indulging in sumptuous baked specialties, the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market conducts several baking demonstrations each day of the festival.

In between bouts of nibbling, you can watch bakers demonstrate the various processes, techniques and artistry South Tyroleans use to make tasty bread and other baked goodness. And if your legs need a rest, consider catching a carriage ride from the square to take in the sights of Brixen.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Experiencing the Magic of Christmas in Brixen

Quality Fresh from the Mountain to the Oven

South Tyroleans place a high value on quality. The region’s bread, baked goods and pasta are no exception.

The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market presents a delectable introduction to the mouth-watering benefits of the South Tyrolean Seal of Quality. This coveted seal guarantees the use of natural ingredients, homemade sourdough and spices. To earn the seal bakers must not use any ready-made mixes, preservatives or flavor enhancers.

Traditional Apple Strudel — Bring your appetite. Savoring every bite of South Tyrolean apfelstrudel is a must while visiting the market.

Today, 54 South Tyrolean farmers grown grain in the Venosta, Pusteria and Isarco valleys to meet the bread and baked goods needs of the region. An independent inspection bureau conducts regular checks to ensure compliance with the specified quality regulations.

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Discover Speckfest – A Mountain-size Celebration Not to Miss in South Tyrol

How to Attend the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market

Getting to the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market is as easy as buttering warm bread. Brixen is among the most walkable towns in South Tyrol.

If you are arriving by car, we suggest parking in the Parkplatz located just off of Via Dante (Dantestraße). A tunnel from the lot will lead you directly to the Piazza del Duomo. The walk is less than 5 minutes.

South tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market Attendees — The South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market offers the perfect break from a day of hiking.

Visiting Brixen by public transportation is encouraged to support the festival’s green initiatives. For bus and train options and timetables, visit the festival’s arrival page.

The specific dates of the South Tyrolean Bread & Strudel Market each fall can be found at the official Valle Isarco website.

After attending the market, be sure to explore the historic treasures of Brixen. The town is a must-see for any fan of history, art and architecture. And if you’re also a fan of wine do not miss visiting the Neustift Monastery located just outside of Brixen. It is one of the oldest operating wineries in the world.

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol

Updated: December 19, 2021

BEFORE YOUR EYES grassy hills jounce jovially from one idyllic scene to the next. They swell like a sea; cresting into rustic farmsteads dotted with carefree cattle, serene stands of evergreens and thatches of larches afire in autumn’s gold.

If you were one prone to suddenly frolic whimsically it would be here. In this Shire-like land of undulating merry.

But then your eyes stretch further. They reach the horizon…where all hell breaks loose. Erupting from the earth thunders a mountain like no other. Its spearhead peaks stab the heavens like a knife thrusting a pillow.

Your heart trembles. Palms sweat. What unseen force could will these goliaths of crag and stone into being?

You ponder this lofty thought for a moment. And then just as quickly as it arose, it comes crashing down to the only question that really matters at this time: where is the bacon? Well, speck to be exact. After all, you’re here for South Tyrol’s Speckfest. The Alpine grandeur bounding all around is simply the cherry on top.

Welcome to Val di Funes

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 57

Sure, we admit your arrival at Speckfest may not unfold exactly as above, but we bet it will be pretty close. The event, held the first weekend of October every year, takes place in Val di Funes (also known as Villnöss) — a valley in the Dolomites possessing one of the most spectacular mountain vistas in the world.

Val di Funes is home to many legends. Two of the most visible are the small churches of St. Johann and St. Magdalena. Their picturesque charm steals your breath as much as the backdrop of the Odle peaks (Geisler in German) storming up behind them.

Another legend worth knowing is Reinhold Messner — a giant in the world of mountaineering. Messner grew up in Val di Funes before going on to conquer the world’s most challenging mountain peaks including Mt. Everest.

With such storied mountain splendor beautifying Val di Funes, it’s no surprise South Tyroleans choose to celebrate the culinary wonders of speck here.

⇒ READ MORE: Visiting Val di Funes: Enchantment in the Dolomites

A Little Bit About Speck

Speck and glass of Schiava — Speck: Mountain smoked ham born in the Alps of South Tyrol. Cherished the world over.

Before we carve into the details of Speckfest and why you should attend, here is a quick 101 on speck if you’re not familiar with this mountain smoked ham of South Tyrol.

Speck’s roots go as far back as at least the 13th century when Tyrolean royal records first made reference to the ham. Centuries ago, ensuring a lasting food supply required our ancestors to salt and smoke meat.

South Tyroleans’ method of preservation arose from combining traditional Northern European smoking methods with the outdoor curing practices of the Mediterranean. Today, making speck continues following these age-old principles of using “a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air”.

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 58 — The Moser Speckworld in Naturns is a museum and butcher shop that intimately shares the history of speck and its importance to South Tyrolean culture.

Prior to smoking, farmers add their individual touch to the specialty by rubbing a mix of various Alpine herbs on the pork. After roughly three weeks of smoking, the slab of ham is dried and hung to age for four to five months where it inhales deep breaths of fresh mountain air.

The result of this long process and tender care is ham unlike anything you tasted before. Speck is delicately sweet with pleasing hints of smoke and salt. We find the texture and flavor of speck far superior to prosciutto. And contrary to its southern cousin, it is easier to enjoy as it can be cut with a knife.

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 59

Speck is savored on its own as a snack with wine and as a tasty addition to many traditional South Tyrolean dishes such as Speckknödelsuppe. We often have speck shipped to our home and enjoy it as an appetizer.

South Tyrol recognizes speck as a treasure worth protecting. To guarantee the authenticity and quality of speck, farmers must follow strict production regulations to earn the designation “Speck Alto Adige PGI”. This certifies the speck you purchase is the real deal.

A Whole Lot About Speckfest

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 60

Speckfest is a two-day celebration that serves as a wonderful excuse to feast on speck, drink local beer and wine and carouse with fun-loving folks while experiencing genuine Alpine traditions.

It takes place on a grassy slope in the village of St. Magdalena (Santa Maddalena) just below the hallowed steeple of the Church of St. Magdalena. The majestic Odle peaks remain your constant companion in the background.

The festival begins Saturday by honoring South Tyrol’s rural heritage. You can witness demonstrations of the region’s customs, as well as the time-honored practices of its local farmers.

Speckfest Specialties — You do not have to be a fan speck to feast at Speckfest. The festival offers a wide range of South Tyrolean dishes and treats.

This celebration of Alpine tradition continues throughout the festival. Many of its hosts, workers and entertainers don colorful dirndls and classic lederhosen. In fact, you will even see several guests adding to the folksy vibe by also sporting traditional Tyrolean garb.

In addition to feasting on various speck specialties such as Bauerngröstl mit Speckstreifen (a fried potato dish with speck) and Bandnudeln mit Wildragout und Speckstreifen (venison stew with pasta and speck), heart-warming bread baked in wood-fired ovens is available as well as delectable desserts like apple strudel and the ever popular Strauben, South Tyrol’s take on a funnel cake.

Of course, you don’t have to eat to have a good time at Speckfest. You can simply take a seat at one of long Oktoberfest-like tables and order a beer from Forst brewing company or a glass of South Tyrolean wine such as Sylvaner, St. Magdalener, Lagrein or Schiava.

We never attend a festival in South Tyrol without partaking in the lovely libations of the region. If you don’t drink alcohol, no worries. The refreshing mountain-born water alone is worth the visit.

Speckfest Entertainment

No celebration in South Tyrol is complete without music and dancing. A stage on the festival grounds hosts traditional Schuhplattler dances and revs up the crowd with musical acts that sing everything from folk to top 40 hits.

When we attended, the singer of one band decided to make the audience part of his stage. He leapt from table to table never missing a beat…and more importantly never knocking over a mug of beer or a glass of wine.

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 61

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 62

Market stalls also pepper the festival grounds allowing attendees to not only sample and purchase speck, but also browse other regional specialties including crafts, Alpine herbs and clothing made from local sheep.

We snapped up a few mountain berry jams and a couple of small, detailed woodcarvings that were perfect for our home office. In addition, we found two traditional blue aprons that we hoped would help bring a bit of Tyrolean inspiration to our kitchen.

Crowning the Speck Queen

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 63 — The Speckfest Queen becomes the star of the festival on Sunday.

The Sunday of Speckfest is a special day. The festival crowns a new “Speckkönigin” or Speck Queen. The queen is supplied with a jeweled crown, sash, a bouquet of flowers and we hope a lifetime supply of speck, Schiava and strauben.

After the coronation, the Speck Queen then follows a 20-year tradition of floating around the festival bringing good cheer and posing with festival-goers. While we were there she was so popular, we had to jump in order to get a picture with the queen!

⇒ YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: Enjoying Törggelen – Your Guide to South Tyrol’s Most Treasured Fall Tradition

How to Attend Speckfest

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 64

The first step to attending Speckfest is to purchase a dirndl or lederhosen. The second step is to work up a huge appetite. Okay, we’re kidding about the first step. Everyday attire is just fine for attending the festival.

According to the festival organizers, Speckfest occurs every year no matter the weather. Before going make sure to check the forecast. Mountain weather can be unruly especially beginning in the fall.

If you arrive by car, you can follow the signs to park in a large open field next to the festival. However, we recommend driving a bit further up the hill in St. Magdalena. Park in the public parking lot off of Via Geisler or along the side of the road.

Discover Speckfest: Mountainsized Cheer in South Tyrol 65 — A walk into the sunset. After you leave Speckfest, you will have a bag full of delights and a heart overflowing with fond memories.

By doing this, you can make a quick trek to the onion-bulbed Church of St. Johann — a must-see historic sight in Val di Funes. After visiting the church, it is roughly a 15-minute walk to Speckfest. Simply follow the numerous signs in St. Magdalena.

The walk itself is a treat all on its own. You’ll meander past cows grazing, brooks babbling and sun-steeped balconies drowning in bright red geraniums. As you approach the festival grounds, the trail steepens. But don’t sweat it. All of the South Tyrolean goodness you’ll consume once on flat ground makes the extra effort well worth it.

For the specific dates of Speckfest each year, visit the official festival website. The site also includes details on public transportation options, which the organizers highly promote to help execute an environmentally-friendly event from beginning to end.

The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol?

Updated: December 18, 2021

DISCOVERING THE BEST MEAL in South Tyrol is a bit like trying to find the best mountain view. Next to impossible. Just when you think you have it, another wonder lands in front of you. The area offers a savory cultural stew of Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine where your next meal could be Italian, Tyrolean, German or all three.

On a recent outing into the heart of the Dolomites, we found the perfect place to devour one of South Tyrol’s most popular traditional dishes. The Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut is a rugged yet inviting gem that sits off a trail in the largest Alpine prairie in Europe, Alpe di Siusi (also known as Seiser Alm).

Rustic Goodness in the Heart of the Dolomites

As we approached the hut, a llama kept its eyes on us. We soon saw chickens, goats and rabbits darting around nearby. Ahh “true farm-to-table,” I thought to myself, but then realized a small petting zoo also sat on the property.

We surrendered our weary legs to a table on the outdoor patio facing a wide-open view of the Langkofel Group (Sassolungo in Italian), an awe-inspiring mass of Dolomite peaks that thunder over the prairie. The first time we saw this massif, its immensity jarred loose any notion of permanence one has on Earth. Taking a break to grab a meal under its stony guard seemed more like a command than a choice.

I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

Soon we were greeted by a young man in traditional Tyrolean garb to take our order. He looked built from the mountain. Kate was immediately smitten. She in no time learned his name, Walter.

To ratchet up my manliness, I steered the conversation away and ordered a tall Forst beer (Forst is a South Tyrolean brewery located near Merano. They produce a nice light-styled lager that quenches one’s thirst after a good hike).

Walter chatted with us a bit longer and we discovered that when he is not taming appetites on the mountain he races horses. Of course, he does I thought to myself. I was immediately left wishing I had ordered three Forsts.

Discovering Speckknödelsuppe

We browsed through a wooden-clad menu showcasing homemade South Tyrolean specialties. My grumbling stomach locked in on Speckknödelsuppe. The name looked tough. It had to be good. Besides, the name rang a bell.

I recalled reading that Speckknödelsuppe translates to bacon dumpling soup. It is a South Tyrolean classic made with speck, a cured, lightly-smoked ham resembling bacon or prosciutto, and knödel, which is a bread dumpling. Making speck follows age-old principles of using a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air.

By the way, this smoked ham is so revered in South Tyrol that there is an annual speck celebration in Val di Funes called none other than Speckfest.

The tradition of South Tyrolean dumplings goes back to medieval times. A fresco from the 13th century graces a wall in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle. It shows a man cooking and eating knödel. Any recipe to survive centuries of war and famine must be divine.

The Soup You Devour with a Fork

My bowl of Speckknödelsuppe arrived just as I finished my last gulp of beer. Naturally, I ordered another. The dish consisted of two baseball-size dumplings in a steamy broth. All made from local ingredients. In no time, I dove in by cutting into the soft, compact lumps with a fork. I recalled that using a knife is an insult to the chef. Not something I am about to do on this mountain.

The cut dumpling revealed an aroma of fresh Alpine herbs. On my first bite, I enjoyed a medley of chive, onion and parsley flavors among bits of smoky speck. I took my time with each bite that followed. Nothing could have distracted me from this Alpine glory. Not the breathtaking views of the Dolomites. And not the sobbing child nearby who learned farm chickens are not for petting.

The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol? 67

Though the two dumplings plopped in my bowl seemed like a dainty meal at first glance, each Speckknödel packed a serious punch. Leaving the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige hungry was never a concern. And that was before we indulged in some apple strudel. I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

Make Speckknödelsuppe your go-to dish the next time hunger calls in South Tyrol.

South Tyrol offers several knödel variations including Speckknödel dumplings without broth. Another popular dish, Knödel Tris, consists of three different dumpling varieties: one with speck, one with cheese and one with spinach. Those with a sweet tooth will want to try dessert knödel — a delectable treat made with lush plums.

A Hearty South Tyrolean Hike is Calling You

Every hearty hike should be followed by a meal of equal heartiness. Words every wanderer should no doubt live by. Fortunately, when you’re trekking through some of the mightiest mountains on the planet, embarking on such a hearty culinary adventure is as natural as your next step. Make Speckknödelsuppe your go-to dish the next time hunger calls in South Tyrol.

The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol? 68

And if you’re venturing into Seiser Alm, be sure to visit the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut. Whether you’re dining or just having a drink, its rustic ambiance and panoramic views are the idyllic setting to unwind for a bit. If Walter happens to be your gracious host, tell him hello from Throne & Vine!

If you want to bring the Dolomites into your home (why wouldn’t you?!), check out our post about the cookbook every mountain lover should own.

Authentic Alpine Recipes: The Cookbook Every Mountain Lover Should Own

Updated: December 18, 2021

If you are craving Alpine cuisine that embodies the hearty goodness of the Alps, we may have found your perfect cookbook.

EVERY WANDERLUSTING SOUL needs a go-to cookbook. Not for the times when out roaming the world, but for when life calls one home.

Cracking open a cookbook filled with culinary treasures from lands explored is a satisfying remedy for restless adventurers bound to their own kitchen. In fact, nothing enlivens cherished memories quite like cooking up delicious dishes from travels abroad.

For us, the cookbook we cannot live without is Alpine Flavours: Authentic recipes from the Dolomites, the heart of the Alps. When pining for the immensity of mountains and wild-hearted treks, we pull out this cultural gem of traditional Alpine recipes and bring mountain-born traditions to life in our home.

Centuries of Culinary Experience at Your Fingertips

At first glance, Alpine cuisine may seem simple, but unlocking the secrets to its rich flavors requires astutely following recipes that have stood the test of time. This becomes immediately apparent if you have ever tried to create a popular dish from the Alps, such as Schlutzkrapfen, without expert direction.

Alpine Cookbook — Crafting Alpine food dishes are made even more enjoyable when the cookbook transports you to the Alps through vivid imagery.

No matter what you make off the cuff, it will come out either bland, too salty or just plain bad. At least that has been our experience.

That’s why we were so thankful to stumble upon the Alpine Flavours cookbook. It took us by the hand leading us on a culinary journey that never disappoints.

From mountain favorites such as Speckknödel (bacon dumplings) to Schweinshaxe (pork shank) to Hirschgulasch (venison goulash), as well as an assortment of pastries and apple-centered dishes, the cookbook shows step-by-step how to recreate the authentic flavors and down-home spirit honed over centuries deep within the Dolomites.

Based on our time cooking with this book as a companion, we think it’s one every mountain lover should own. The Alps of South Tyrol are after all the world’s most tantalizing mountains; it’s no surprise its hearty cuisine offers equal enchantment.

Savoring the Mountains

Authentic Alpine Recipes: The Cookbook Every Mountain Lover Should Own 69 — The Alpine dessert, Kaiserschmarrn, is a traditional pastry as sweetly delicious as a mountain view.

Alpine Flavours not only helps you relish Alpine cuisine but also whisks you away on a cultural odyssey. The cookbook is filled with captivating images of mountain food and life. From front to back, it is crafted like a perfectly plated dish. Alpine Flavours could just as easily adorn your coffee table as your countertop.

Each delicious dish is paired with an exquisite South Tyrolean wine such as the rich reds of Schiava and Lagrein to the complex whites of Gewürztraminer and beyond. South Tyrol is Italy’s smallest wine-producing area, yet it still surprises with the indisputable quality of its wines, which rank among the most awarded at the national level. Every 12th award-winning Italian wine comes from South Tyrol — an impressive feat for a region that represents just 0.7% of national production.

While you can certainly browse directly to whatever dish tempts you at the moment, the book is best devoured one page at a time. If food provides a window into a region’s history, values and soul, Alpine Flavours gives you a sweeping view of the Italian Alps.

Alpine Food — “Knödel” is a classic Alpine food dish of South Tyrol. This dumpling dish has medieval roots — coming in a variety of types, including spinach, porcini, cheese, speck and much more.

You’ll come away with a historical foundation of South Tyrol’s cuisine. Not to mention a deep appreciation for how its rural heartiness has evolved into mountain recipes now revered.

Irresistible Alpine Recipes from the Alps

Even if your talents are less than average in the kitchen, you will have no problem finding dishes to easily tackle. The book designates recipes by their level of difficulty — easy, medium and high. And at nearly 300 pages, you will not run out of Alpine recipes to attempt.

Pork Shank Recipe — Rural heartiness at its best. South Tyrolean Schweinshaxe (Pork Shank)

Meals in South Tyrol are broken into courses and by and large, the book follows suit. It is organized into the following sections:

Specialties & Typical Products – An in-depth introduction to the dairy products, meats, fish, fruit and vegetables comprising South Tyrol’s Alpine cuisine
Rye Bread – Provides instructions on the various ways to prepare this much-loved bread
First Courses – Includes 23 recipes covering everything from pasta to spaetzle to soup
Gnocchi & Canederli (Knödel) – Offers six different dumpling recipes from cheese to spinach and more
Speck – An introduction to this widely-celebrated aged meat that makes an excellent appetizer, snack or ingredient for main dishes
Second Courses – Includes 19 savory meat and roast recipes spanning beef, pork, lamb and venison
Side Dishes – Presents eight traditional side recipes including regional favorites such as polenta and potato dishes
Tyrolean Desserts – Offers 22 tempting Alpine dessert recipes from buchteln to krapfen to strudel and more
Grappas, Juices & Jams – Teaches how to make mountain gems such as elderflower syrup, pine schnapps and jams

Beyond the recipes, Alpine Flavours features ample information on the different South Tyrolean wines recommended, as well as an overview of Törggelen, a beloved autumn tradition that is South Tyrol’s largest annual culinary event.

Venison goulash recipe — Several of the book’s Alpine recipes and dishes such as Hirschgulasch (Venison Goulash) exude flavors born from ancient traditions

In South Tyrol, like much of Europe, mealtime is both an experience and an art form to appreciate and savor. If you long to harken back to a simpler time, Alpine Flavours can be your guide.

After creating a few of the dishes from the cookbook, we think it will become quite clear why South Tyrol is the culinary star of Italy — boasting more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other region of the country.

The rural roots of South Tyroleans make them exceptionally masterful at harnessing the flavors of the land from pasture to forest. Despite a population of a mere 500,000, South Tyrol is revered worldwide for the quality of the region’s ingredients as well as to the refinement of their preparation.

Enjoying Alpine Food in Your Home

Alpine Recipes — Beyond hearty Alpine dishes, you’ll also learn how to make lighter traditional fare such as Mezzelune pasta.

Not every ingredient mentioned in the book may be readily available unless you’re near the Alps or wish to have the regional specialties shipped to your home. Do not let that be a deterrent to enjoying any of Alpine dishes within. By being a bit resourceful and a little creative you can find worthy ingredient substitutes as needed.

Depending on how much you like to cook, Alpine Flavours is a cookbook you can turn to every day. Many dishes do not require overly lengthy preparation time. But those who embrace slow travel and slow food will find it the most more rewarding.

Bauerngröstel is a delicious beef and potato Alpine dish we fry up again and again. During weekend brunches, we add a fried egg on top.

For us, we simply pick one recipe per week to make. Still, even with this frequency, we have found so many favorites calling us back we’re still working our way through the book over a year later. Don’t be surprised if the same happens to you. Like mountain scenery, Alpine food tends to capture your heart and not let go.

As raving fans of South Tyrol, we cannot recommend enough embarking on an adventure in this mountainous jewel crowning northern Italy. Nothing will match the experience of savoring a mountain-to-table meal like sitting on the mountain where it was born.

Yet for those that cannot make a trip to South Tyrol, the cookbook makes the act of preparing a meal a joyful adventure all on its own. Every nature lover and foodie will find mountain recipes to delight in again and again. It’s an ideal gift for those drawn to rich, rugged heartiness.

South Tyrolean Apple Strudel — South Tyrol is the heart of the apple in Europe. Apple Strudel makes for a mouth-watering dessert after a meal or grueling trek

The meat dishes we created from the book’s recipes have been just as savory as the main courses we’ve enjoyed at restaurants throughout South Tyrol. We were even able to replicate a knödel entree that was nearly as delicious as the treasure we devoured at one of Italy’s top mountain resorts.

Transforming your kitchen into a rifugio (mountain hut) on a whim has never been easier. Alpine Flavours takes you on a journey to new culinary heights all without setting foot on a mountain. Make no mistake though. If the mountain calls, go. Not even your appetite should get in the way of a breathtaking hike.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy

Updated: December 18, 2021

Discover the alluring world of South Tyrolean apples. These mountain-born gems will dazzle your mouth and inspire your wanderlust heart to new heights.

WHEN EVE PLUCKED the proverbial apple from the tree in the Garden of Eden it very well may have been in South Tyrol, Italy. Crowning the far northern edge of the country, this mountainous haven, also known as Alto Adige and Südtirol, is blessed with some of the most stunning scenery in the world.

Here, Mediterranean valleys crash into Alpine glory producing striking snow-capped vistas illuminated by terrain ablaze with tropical lushness. One can’t help but be in constant awe among such beauty.

But beauty is not the only flourishing charm of South Tyrol. Upon arriving, you’ll almost immediately encounter apple orchard after apple orchard.

Surprised? So were we. A mountain-riddled land is not where we expected to admire apple trees. But indeed red, green, gold apples beam like jewels among South Tyrol’s snow-kissed peaks, ancient castles and rivering vineyards.

The Tempting Apples of South Tyrol

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 71

When wandering along historic Waalwegs still channeling pristine water to lands once ruled by kings, the urge to nab a plump apple is hard to resist. However, doing such delicious mischief would be a foolish disservice to the hard-working South Tyroleans whose livelihoods depend on apple harvests each year.

With over 18,000 hectares (picture 15,000 baseball fields) of apple orchards spread throughout the region, South Tyrol is the largest self-contained apple-producing region in Europe. Apples are a fundamental element of the South Tyrolean economy. These luscious delights are not only a gift for your taste buds, but are integral in many cosmetics and spa treatments in South Tyrol.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 72 — South Tyrol apples and hiking go hand in hand. Just be sure to bring your own!

Around 8,000 South Tyrolean families depend upon fruit production for their livelihood. On average, South Tyrol produces 900,000 tons of apples supplying half the Italian apple market, up to 15 percent of the European market and about two percent of the apples worldwide.

Of all the arable land in South Tyrol, apple production dominates in comparison to all other crops, dairy and meats. Thanks to the impressive ingenuity of South Tyrolean farmers, they can produce apples at elevations reaching 3,200+ feet above sea level.

South Tyrol’s steep mountainous terrain actually elevates every mouth-pleasing quality you seek in an apple. Apples at higher elevations mature slower making them crisper and denser. Furthermore, the wider temperature swings between day and night beautify the apples even more by producing more vivid hues of red, green and gold.

Way of the South Tyrolean Apple

In the late 1800s, Friedrich Wilhelm Raiffeisen launched the apple cooperative movement to ensure the economic survival of the apple industry in South Tyrol. The movement instilled principles of mutual help, self-governance and self-responsibility.

These tenets allowed small growers to expand their market share and foster a brand reputation that is second to none in the apple world. Today, over 90% of apple production in South Tyrol is controlled by the cooperative system.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 73 — South Tyrolean expert, Reka Hukari, shows us the vast apple orchards of the valley.

A bite into a South Tyrolean apple is a delectable adventure unto itself, but to gain a better understanding of the apple’s importance to the people of this region, our friend and South Tyrol expert, Reka Hukari suggested touring Kurmark-Unifrut, a co-op in Margreid— a charming hamlet of about 1,000 villagers located 25 minutes south of Bolzano.

Kurmark-Unifrut is a 480-member strong co-op cultivating almost 800 hectares and producing 55,000 tons of fruit each year. Unifrut was founded in 1946 while Kurmark was founded in 1960. The two co-ops merged in 2001.

We walked through a sun-soaked vineyard, passing a small church that looked as old as the mountain itself, until we came to a sheer cliff edge.

We met Reka in the village of Kurtatsch mid-morning and took a little time to stroll through its lovely cobblestone streets in the warm morning light. Before heading to Margreid, Reka led us up a nearby mountain to get the lay of the apple production in the valley. We walked through a sun-soaked vineyard, passing a small church that looked as old as the mountain itself until we came to a sheer cliff edge.

Below us unfolded a vast checkerboard of orchards in every hue of green. From this vantage point, the importance of the apple to South Tyrol really hit home. Reka explained how the valley basin is home to the orchards while the vineyards cling higher up the slopes. We learned apple trees thrive in wet soil, but the grape vines do not like “wet feet” as she put it.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 74 — Luis Codalonga of Kurmark-Unifruit walks us through a young orchard of Fuji apples.

We sped back down the mountain to the Kurmark-Unifrut headquarters and were graciously met by Luis Codalonga, the co-op’s tour guide and wizard of all things apple. Luis instructed us to adorn some gnarly looking hairnets and neon yellow safety vests, which we of course memorialized with frequent photos.

We then sat down for a bit and received an introduction to Kurmark-Unifrut where we discovered that Royal Gala, Golden Delicious and Granny Smith are its dominant varieties. Next, Luis led us from the main office to a nearby orchard on the property.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 75 — The perfumed wonders of spring unfold all over South Tyrol.

Here Luis explained how the co-op harmonizes apple production with the environment by controlling pests through green fertilization and pheromone traps, among other techniques. We’re big believers in working in concert with nature and hearing how the co-op embraces such practices made us all the more excited to try its apples.

Luis also touched on the science behind deciding when to harvest. Kurmark-Unifrut growers perform frequent tests on apples in the orchards to assess sugar, density and starch content. Only when the content levels meet exacting standards are the apples harvested. The harvest in South Tyrol varies by apple, but begins as early as August and ends in October.

Ancient Flavors Perfected for Today

Once picked, Kurmark-Unifrut stores the apples in immense cold storage buildings. According to Luis, these behemoths were designed to architecturally-mimic an apple crate. Upon walking in we were immediately thankful we brought our jackets.

Redish-orange cellar doors lined the long hallway. Within, crates flush with apples sat on top of each from the floor to ceiling. Each cellar can hold 1,000 crates we were told, which equates to 300 tons of apples.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 76

Kurmark-Unifruit segments the apples with green and gray crates. Gray crates hold apples designated for baking and juicing. Green crates contain apples ready for consumption.

If you time your visit right in the spring, you’ll witness the flowering of the apple orchards. The trees awaken with white and violet blooms that blanket the valleys all the way up the rolling hillsides.

The purpose of the cold storage facility is to slow the physiological development of the apples without using chemicals. Low oxygen levels and cold temperature ensure the apples stay fresh throughout the year.

This approach does not come without risk. We were surprised to learn that people have lost their lives foolishly thinking they can dart in and out of a cellar. The low oxygen levels can claim victims without warning.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 77 — From the orchard to the processing center, Kurmark-Unifrut uses state-of-the-art technology to ensure superior apple quality.

Next, we toured the co-op’s apple sorting and packing facility. While the cold storage building was eerily quiet, this facility was alive with action. The hum of machinery and hustle followed us on every step. Not to mention the sweet aroma of apples! The luster of red, gold and green apples beamed against the drab equipment.

Luis informed us that timing is everything when it comes to apples, so upon leaving cold storage the apples must be processed, packed and shipped as efficiently as possible to guarantee freshness. Kurmark-Unifrut prides itself on producing the freshest produce to its consumers and has made substantial investments in the latest technologies to that end.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 78

The co-op uses state-of-the-art optical technology that captures 64 images of each apple as it passes through a water lane. This produces a 3D replication uncovering imperfections at a processing speed of 5-7 apples per second.

At the end of the 10 optical sorting-lines, bins lower to capture the apples using a vacuum suction technique. Final inspection is performed with the human eye before packaging.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 79

The co-op packages apples for multiple brands, which vary by the destination country. Each package includes the European Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) seal of quality.

Thirteen apple varieties in South Tyrol currently hold PGI status, which guarantees quality, uniqueness and exceptional taste. Only producers who adhere to strict production guidelines receive the designation.

Savoring Every Sip & Bite

Following the tour, Luis treated us to an apple tasting, which included sampling a glass of apple juice. Similar to boxed wine in the United States, South Tyrolean grocers carry boxed apple juice varieties.

Packed with flavor and softness, the juice wowed our lips. We loved its freshness and made a note to hit a local grocer before heading back to our resort.

Next up were the apples. We were familiar with a few of the varieties, including Braeburn, Red Delicious, Granny Smith and Royal Gala, but were not at all prepared for the lush juiciness that came with every bite.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 80 — To ensure you’re buying apples that meet South Tyrol’s strict quality standards look for “Mela Alto Adige IGP” on the packaging.

We love American apples; however, South Tyrol’s apples stood a mountain apart. They were more aromatic and the flavors seem to burst within your mouth.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 81

Kanzi and Modi were unfamiliar to us…and absolutely delightful. These two were our personal favorites. Modi exhibited a more modern taste, golden hues and a juicy burst balanced nicely with acidity and sweetness. Kanzi was both sour and sweet with a crispness that sings between your teeth. Its name means “hidden treasure”. A perfect apple to conclude our visit.

We snapped a few final pictures and thanked Luis for the fascinating tour. He made sure we took a handful of apples to enjoy for our hiking outing the following day.

Journey into South Tyrol Apple Country

If you’re a fan of apples (and let’s be honest how can you not be), do yourself a favor and explore South Tyrol’s treasured fruit during your visit. Plan a few hikes through the area’s Waalwegs where you can wander by numerous orchards not mention vineyards, forests and Alpine meadows.

The aromas and sights you encounter will make your senses dance with joy. Be sure to stop at a wayside hut where you can drop a few coins to sample the local produce and their byproducts. You will not be disappointed.

An excellent place to base yourself for an apple-filled adventure is Preidlhof Hotel & Spa in Naturns. The resort sits on a mountainside with an apple orchard running right up to its doorstep!

A hike not to miss while staying at Preidlhof is to Castel Juval. The trail to this medieval stronghold takes you past numerous orchards and vineyards and gives you unforgettable views of South Tyrol’s Val Venosta.

If you time your visit right in the spring, you’ll witness the flowering of the apple orchards. The trees awaken with white and violet blooms that blanket the valleys all the way up to the rolling hillsides. Whether exploring on foot or by bike, the blossoming spectacle softly kisses your nose with sweet scents welcoming you to the new season.

South Tyrolean Apples: Mountains of Goodness in Italy 82 — Hiking around and through apple orchards is an experience not to miss while in South Tyrol.

You can also time your visit in the fall to partake in apple harvest celebrations. One to consider is the apple festival in Naz-Sciaves. Held in early October each year, the festival includes a grand parade, the crowning of the Apple Queen, live music, dance and of course plenty of scrumptious South Tyrolean goodness.

No matter when you go, no trip to South Tyrol would be complete without trying its world-famous apple strudel. We dive into this traditional treat after almost every hike. It’s the perfect way to end a day of wandering in this corner of paradise.

If this is the first time you’ve heard about South Tyrol, Italy, do your wanderlust heart a favor and discover why it needs to be at the top of your travel wish list.

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Journey into South Tyrol Apple Country

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