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South Tyrol Cuisine

The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol?

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iconDiscovering the best meal in South Tyrol is a bit like trying to find the best mountain view. Next to impossible. Just when you think you have it, another wonder lands in front of you. The area offers a savory cultural stew of Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine where your next meal could be Italian, Tyrolean, German or all three.

On a recent outing into the heart of the Dolomites, we found the perfect place to devour one of South Tyrol’s most popular traditional dishes. The Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut is a rugged yet inviting gem that sits off a trail in the largest Alpine prairie in Europe, Seiser Alm (also known as Alpe di Siusi).

Rustic Goodness in the Heart of the Dolomites

As we approached the hut, a llama kept its eyes on us. We soon saw chickens, goats and rabbits darting around nearby. Ahh “true farm-to-table” I thought to myself, but then realized a small petting zoo also sat on the property.

We surrendered our weary legs to a table on the outdoor patio facing a wide open view of the Langkofel Group (Sassolungo in Italian), an awe-inspiring mass of Dolomite peaks that thunder over the prairie. The first time we saw this massif, its immensity jarred loose any notion of permanence one has on Earth. Taking a break to grab a meal under its stony guard seemed more like a command than a choice.

I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

Soon we were greeted by a young man in traditional Tyrolean garb to take our order. He looked built from the mountain. Kate was immediately smitten. She in no time learned his name, Walter.  To up my manliness, I steered the conversation away and ordered a tall Forst beer (Forst is a South Tyrolean brewery located near Merano. They produce a nice light-styled lager that quenches one’s thirst after a good hike). Walter chatted with us a bit longer and we discovered that when he is not taming appetites on the mountain he races horses. Of course he does I thought to myself. I was immediately left wishing I had ordered three Forsts.

A Dish So Tough to Say…it Has to Be Easy to Eat

We browsed through a wooden-clad menu showcasing homemade South Tyrolean specialties. My grumbling stomach locked in on Speckknödelsuppe. The name looked tough. It had to be good. Besides, the name rang a bell.

I recalled reading that Speckknödelsuppe translates to bacon dumpling soup. It is a South Tyrolean classic made with speck, a cured, lightly-smoked ham resembling bacon or proscuitto, and knödel, which is a bread dumpling. Making speck follows age-old principles of using a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air.

The tradition of South Tyrolean dumplings goes back to medieval times. A fresco from the 13th century graces a wall in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle. It shows a man cooking and eating knödel. Any recipe to survive centuries of war and famine must be divine.

Hocchenpan Castle South Tyrol

Hocchenpan Castle Knodel Painting

The Soup You Devour with a Fork

My bowl of Speckknödelsuppe arrived just as I finished my last gulp of beer. Naturally, I ordered another. The dish consisted of two baseball size dumplings in a steamy broth. All made from local ingredients. In no time, I dove in by cutting into the soft, compact lumps with a fork. I recalled that using a knife is an insult to the chef. Not something I am about to do on this mountain.

Speckknodelsuppe and Forst beerThe cut dumpling revealed an aroma of fresh Alpine herbs. On my first bite, I enjoyed a medley of chive, onion and parsley flavors among bits of smoky speck. I took my time with each bite that followed. Nothing could have distracted me from this Alpine glory. Not the breathtaking views of the Dolomites. And not the sobbing child nearby who learned farm chickens are not for petting.

Though the two dumplings plopped in my bowl seemed like a dainty meal at first glance, each Speckknödel packed a serious punch. Leaving the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige hungry was never a concern. And that was before we indulged on some apple strudel. I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

South Tyrol offers several knödel variations including Speckknödel dumplings without broth. Another popular dish, Knödel Tris, consists of three different dumpling varieties: one with speck, one with cheese and one with spinach. Those with a sweet tooth will want to try dessert knödel — a delectable treat made with lush plums.

A Hearty South Tyrolean Hike is Calling You

Every hearty hike should be followed by a meal of equal heartiness. Words every wanderer should no doubt live by.  Fortunately, when you’re trekking through some of the mightiest mountains on the planet, embarking on such a hearty culinary adventure is as natural as your next step. Make Speckknödelsuppe your go-to dish the next time hunger calls in South Tyrol.

Seiser Alm Hiker
Alpine superfood? Conquering mountains seems far less formidable after devouring a bowl of Speckknödelsuppe!

And if you’re venturing into Seiser Alm, be sure to visit the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut. Whether you’re dining or just having a drink, its rustic ambiance and panoramic views are the idyllic setting to unwind for a bit. If Walter happens to be your gracious host, tell him hello from Throne & Vine!

If you want to bring the Dolomites into your home (why wouldn’t you?!), check out our post about the cookbook every mountain lover should own.

To learn more about the fascinating flavors of South Tyrol and this Alpine wonderland crowning northern Italy, be sure to subscribe to our email updates.

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Discover Authentic Alpine Recipes – The Cookbook Every Mountain Lover Should Own

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South Tyrol Alpine CookingiconEvery wanderer needs a good cookbook. Not for the times when out roaming, but for when life calls one home. A cookbook filled with culinary treasures from lands explored is a perfect companion to the restless soul bound to his own kitchen.

Nothing enlivens your most cherished memories quite like crafting favorite dishes from adventures abroad.

For us, the cookbook we cannot live without is Alpine Flavours: Authentic recipes from the Dolomites, the heart of the Alps. When pining for the immensity of mountains and wild-hearted treks, we crack open this cultural gem of traditional Alpine recipes and bring mountain-born goodness to life in our home.

If you crave cuisine that matches the hearty ruggedness of the mountains, look no further. As you’ll see below, this cookbook beautifully captures the magic behind authentic specialties, entrees and desserts of the Alps.

Centuries of Culinary Experience at Your Fingertips

From mountain favorites such as Speckknödel (bacon dumplings) to Schweinshaxe (pork shank) to Hirschgulasch (venison goulash), as well as an assortment of pastries and apple-centered dishes, the cookbook inspires recreating the rich flavors and down-home spirit honed over centuries deep within the Dolomites.

South Tyrol Alpine Recipes Cookbook
Crafting Alpine food dishes are made even more enjoyable when the cookbook transports you to the Alps through vivid imagery.

Based on our experience cooking with this book, we think it’s one every mountain lover should own. The Alps of South Tyrol are after all the world’s most tantalizing mountains; it’s no surprise its hearty cuisine offers equal enchantment.

The book has wonderfully served as our master chef guiding us to filling our dining table with age-old recipes handed down from one generation to the next. 

Savoring the Mountains

Alpine Flavours not only helps you savor the mountains, but also carries you along a cultural journey with captivating images throughout. From front to back, the book is crafted like a perfectly plated dish. It could just as easily adorn your coffee table as it could your countertop.

Each delicious dish is paired with an exquisite South Tyrolean wine such as the rich reds of Schiava and Lagrein to the complex whites of Gewürztraminer and beyond. South Tyrol is Italy’s smallest wine-producing area, yet it still surprises with the indisputable quality of its wines, which rank among the most awarded at the national level. Every 12th award-winning Italian wine comes from South Tyrol — an impressive feat for a region that represents just 0.7% of national production.

Like mountain scenery, Alpine food tends to capture your heart and not let go.

While you can certainly browse directly to whatever dish tempts you at the moment, the book is best devoured one page at a time. If food provides a window into a region’s history, values and soul, Alpine Flavours gives you a sweeping view of the Italian Alps. 

Alpine Food
“Knödel” is a classic Alpine food dish of South Tyrol. This dumpling dish has medieval roots — coming in a variety of types, including spinach, porcini, cheese, speck and much more.

You’ll come away with a historical foundation of South Tyrol’s cuisine. Not to mention a deep appreciation for how its rural heartiness has evolved into mountain recipes now revered. 

Irresistible Alpine Recipes from the Alps

Even if your talents are less than average in the kitchen, you will have no problem finding dishes to easily tackle. The book designates recipes by their level of difficulty — easy, medium and high. And at nearly 300 pages, you will not run out of Alpine recipes to attempt.

Pork Shank Recipe
Rural heartiness at its best. South Tyrolean Schweinshaxe (Pork Shank)

Meals in South Tyrol are broken into courses and by and large, the book follows suit. It is organized into the following sections:

  • Specialties & Typical Products – An in-depth introduction to the dairy products, meats, fish, fruit and vegetables comprising South Tyrol’s Alpine cuisine
  • Rye Bread – Provides instructions on the various ways to prepare this much-loved bread
  • First Courses – Includes 23 recipes covering everything from pasta to spaetzle to soup
  • Gnocchi & Canederli (Knödel) – Offers six different dumpling recipes from cheese to spinach and more
  • Speck – An introduction to this widely-celebrated aged meat that makes an excellent appetizer,  snack or ingredient for main dishes
  • Second Courses – Includes 19 savory meat and roast recipes spanning beef, pork, lamb and venison
  • Side Dishes – Presents eight traditional side recipes including regional favorites such as polenta and potato dishes
  • Tyrolean Desserts  – Offers 22 tempting Alpine dessert recipes from buchteln to krapfen to strudel and more
  • Grappas, Juices & Jams – Teaches how to make mountain gems such as elderflower syrup, pine schnapps and jams

Beyond the recipes, Alpine Flavours features ample information on the different South Tyrolean wines recommended, as well as an overview of Törggelen, a beloved autumn tradition that is South Tyrol’s largest annual culinary event.

Venison goulash recipe
Several of the book’s Alpine recipes and dishes such as Hirschgulasch (Venison Goulash) exude flavors born from ancient traditions

In South Tyrol, like much of Europe, mealtime is both an experience and an art form to appreciate and savor. If you long to harken back to a simpler time, Alpine Flavours can be your guide.

After creating a few of the dishes from the cookbook, we think it will become quite clear why South Tyrol is the culinary star of Italy — boasting more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other region of the country.

The rural roots of South Tyroleans make them exceptionally masterful at harnessing the flavors of the land from pasture to forest. Despite a population of a mere 500,000, South Tyrol is revered worldwide for the quality of the region’s ingredients as well as to the refinement of their preparation. 

⇒ READ MORE: The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol

Enjoying Alpine Food in Your Home

Alpine Recipes
Beyond hearty Alpine dishes, you’ll also learn how to make lighter traditional fare such as Mezzelune pasta.

Not every ingredient mentioned in the book may be readily available unless you’re near the Alps or wish to have the regional specialties shipped to your home. Do not let that be a deterrent to enjoying any of Alpine dishes within. By being a bit resourceful and a little creative you can find worthy ingredient substitutes as needed.

Depending on how much you like to cook, Alpine Flavours is a cookbook you can turn to every day. Many dishes do not require overly lengthy preparation time. But those who embrace slow travel and slow food will find it the most more rewarding.

Bauerngröstel
Bauerngröstel is a delicious beef and potato Alpine dish we fry up again and again. During weekend brunches, we add a fried egg on top.

For us, we simply pick one recipe per week to make. Still, even with this frequency, we have found so many favorites calling us back we’re still working our way through the book over a year later. Don’t be surprised if the same happens to you. Like mountain scenery, Alpine food tends to capture your heart and not let go. 

As raving fans of South Tyrol, we cannot recommend enough embarking on an adventure in this mountainous jewel crowning northern Italy. Nothing will match the experience of savoring a mountain-to-table meal like sitting on the mountain where it was born.

Yet for those that cannot make a trip to South Tyrol, the cookbook makes the act of preparing a meal a joyful adventure all on its own. Every nature lover and foodie will find mountain recipes to delight in again and again. It’s an ideal gift for those drawn to rich, rugged heartiness.

South Tyrolean Apple Strudel
South Tyrol is the heart of the apple in Europe. Apple Strudel makes for a mouth-watering dessert after a meal or grueling trek

The meat dishes we created from the book’s recipes have been just as savory as the main courses we’ve enjoyed at restaurants throughout South Tyrol. We were even able to replicate a knödel entree that was nearly as delicious as the treasure we devoured at one of Italy’s top mountain resorts.

Transforming your kitchen into a rifugio (mountain hut) on a whim has never been easier.  Alpine Flavours takes you on a journey to new culinary heights all without setting foot on a mountain. Make no mistake though. If the mountain calls, go. Not even your appetite should get in the way of a breathtaking hike.

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South Tyrol Apples – Among the Most Delightful Bites & Sights in Italy

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South Tyrol Apples St. Peter ChurchiconWhen Eve plucked the proverbial apple from the tree in the Garden of Eden it very well may have been in South Tyrol, Italy. Crowning the far northern edge of the country, this mountainous haven, also known as Alto Adige and Südtirol, is blessed with some of the most stunning scenery in the world.

Here, Mediterranean valleys crash into Alpine glory producing striking snow-capped vistas illuminated by terrain ablaze with tropical lushness. One can’t help but be in constant awe among such beauty.

But beauty is not the only flourishing charm of South Tyrol. Upon arriving, you’ll almost immediately encounter apple orchard after apple orchard. Red, green and gold South Tyrol apples beam from the fertile valleys shared by ancient castles, villages and vineyards.

When wandering along historic Waalwegs still channeling pristine water to lands once ruled by royalty long past, the temptation to nab an apple from a tree and sink your teeth into its juiciness is hard to resist. However, doing such delicious mischief would be a foolish disservice to the hard-working South Tyroleans whose livelihoods depend on bountiful harvests each year. 

With over 18,000 hectares (picture 15,000 baseball fields) of apple orchards spread throughout the region, South Tyrol is the largest self-contained apple-producing region in Europe. Apples are a fundamental element of the South Tyrolean economy. These luscious delights are not only a gift for your taste buds, but are integral in many cosmetics and spa treatments in South Tyrol. 

South Tyrol Vineyards and Orchards

Around 8,000 South Tyrolean families depend upon fruit production for their livelihood. On average, South Tyrol produces 900,000 tons of apples supplying half the Italian apple market, up to 15 percent of the European market and about two percent of the apples worldwide. Of all the arable land in South Tyrol, apple production dominates in comparison to all other crops, dairy and meats.

Way of the South Tyrolean Apple

In the late 1800s, Friedrich Wilhelm Raiffeisen launched the apple cooperative movement to ensure the economic survival of the apple industry in South Tyrol. The movement instilled principles of mutual help, self-governance and self-responsibility. These tenets allowed small growers to expand their market share and foster a brand reputation that is second to none in the apple world. Today, over 90% of apple production in South Tyrol is controlled by the cooperative system.

We walked through a sun-soaked vineyard, passing a small church that looked as old as the mountain itself, until we came to a sheer cliff edge.

A bite into a South Tyrolean apple is a delectable adventure unto itself, but to gain a better understanding of the apple’s importance to the people of this region, our friend and South Tyrol expert, Reka Hukari suggested touring Kurmark-Unifrut, a co-op in Margreid— a charming hamlet of about 1,000 villagers located 25 minutes south of Bolzano.  

Biking through a South Tyrol Apple Orchard in Spring
In the spring, South Tyrol’s apple trees awaken with white and violet flowers. The blossoming spectacle softly kisses your nose with sweetness welcoming you to the new season.

Kurmark-Unifrut is a 480-member strong co-op cultivating almost 800 hectares and producing 55,000 tons of fruit each year. Unifrut was founded in 1946 while Kurmark was founded in 1960. The two co-ops merged in 2001.

We met Reka in the village of Kurtatsch mid-morning and took a little time to stroll through its lovely cobblestone streets in the warm morning light. Before heading to Margreid, Reka led us up a nearby mountain to get the lay of the apple production in the valley. We walked through a sun-soaked vineyard, passing a small church that looked as old as the mountain itself until we came to a sheer cliff edge.

Below us unfolded a vast checkerboard of orchards in every hue of green. From this vantage point, the importance of the apple to South Tyrol really hit home. Reka explained how the valley basin is home to the orchards while the vineyards cling higher up the slopes. We learned apple trees thrive in wet soil, but the grape vines do not like “wet feet” as she put it. 

South Tyrolean Expert Reka Hukari discussing apple production in South Tyrol / Alto Adige
South Tyrolean expert, Reka Hukari, shows us the vast apple orchards of the valley.

We sped back down the mountain to the Kurmark-Unifrut headquarters and were graciously met by Luis Codalonga, the co-op’s tour guide and wizard of all things apple. Luis instructed us to adorn some gnarly looking hairnets and neon yellow safety vests, which we of course memorialized with frequent photos.

We then sat down for a bit and received an introduction to Kurmark-Unifrut where we discovered that Royal Gala, Golden Delicious and Granny Smith are its dominant varieties. Next, Luis led us from the main office to a nearby orchard on the property.

Here Luis explained how the co-op harmonizes apple production with the environment by controlling pests through green fertilization and pheromone traps, among other techniques. We’re big believers in working in concert with nature and hearing how the co-op embraces such practices made us all the more excited to try its apples. 

Kate and Reka Examining an Apple Tree in South Tyrol

Luis also touched on the science behind deciding when to harvest. Kurmark-Unifrut growers perform frequent tests on apples in the orchards to assess sugar, density and starch content. Only when the content levels meet exacting standards are the apples harvested. The harvest in South Tyrol varies by apple, but begins as early as August and ends in October. 

⇒ READ MORE: Discover Authentic Alpine Recipes – The Cookbook Every Mountain Lover Should Own

Ancient Flavors Perfected for Today

Once picked, Kurmark-Unifrut stores the apples in immense cold storage buildings. According to Luis, these behemoths were designed to architecturally-mimic an apple crate. Upon walking in we were immediately thankful we brought our jackets. 

Orange cellar doors lined the long hallway. Within, crates flush with apples sat on top of each from the floor to ceiling. Each cellar can hold 1,000 crates we were told, which equates to 300 tons of apples. The co-op segments the apples with green and gray crates.  Gray crates hold apples designated for baking and juicing. Green crates contain apples ready for consumption.

South Tyrol Cold Storage for Apples

The purpose of the cold storage facility is to slow the physiological development of the apples without using chemicals. Low oxygen levels and cold temperature ensure the apples stay fresh throughout the year. This approach does not come without risk. We were surprised to learn that people have lost their lives foolishly thinking they can dart in and out of a cellar. The low oxygen levels can claim victims without warning.

Next, we toured the co-op’s apple sorting and packing facility. While the cold storage building was eerily quiet, this facility was alive with action. The hum of machinery and hustle followed us on every step. Not to mention the sweet aroma of apples!  The luster of red, gold and green apples sprung brightly against the drab equipment.

If you time your visit right in the spring, you’ll witness the flowering of the apple orchards. The trees awaken with white and violet blooms that blanket the valleys all the way up the rolling hillsides.

Luis informed us that timing is everything when it comes to apples, so upon leaving cold storage the apples must be processed, packed and shipped as efficiently as possible to guarantee freshness. Kurmark-Unifrut prides itself on producing the freshest produce to its consumers and has made substantial investments in the latest technologies to that end. The co-op uses state-of-the-art optical technology that captures 64 images of each apple as it passes through a water lane. This produces a 3D replication uncovering imperfections at a processing speed of 5-7 apples per second.

South Tyrol Apple Coop Sorting Machine
Wizard of all things apple, Luis Codalonga, explains how Kurmark-Unifrut uses state-of-the-art technology to ensure superior apple quality.

At the end of the 10 optical sorting-lines, bins lower to capture the apples using a vacuum suction technique. Final inspection is performed with the human eye before packaging.

The co-op packages apples for multiple brands, which vary by the destination country. Each package includes the European Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) seal of quality. Thirteen apple varieties in South Tyrol currently hold PGI status, which guarantees quality, uniqueness and exceptional taste. Only producers who adhere to strict production guidelines receive the designation.

Sudtirol Apples

South Tyrol Apple BoxesSavoring Every Sip & Bite

Following the tour, Luis treated us to an apple tasting, which included sampling a glass of apple juice. Similar to boxed wine in the United States, South Tyrolean grocers carry boxed apple juice varieties. Packed with flavor and softness, the juice wowed our lips. We reveled in its freshness and made a note to hit a local grocer before heading back to our resort.  

South Tyrol Apple Juice

Next up were the apples. We were familiar with a few of the varieties, including Braeburn, Red Delicious, Granny Smith and Royal Gala, but were not at all prepared for the lush juiciness that came with every bite. We love American apples; however, South Tyrol’s apples stood a mountain apart. They were more aromatic and the flavors seem to burst within your mouth.

Sudtirol Apples

Kanzi and Modi were unfamiliar to us…and absolutely delightful. These two were our personal favorites. Modi exhibited a more modern taste, golden hues and a juicy burst balanced nicely with acidity and sweetness. Kanzi was both sour and sweet with a crispness that sings between your teeth. Its name means “hidden treasure”. A perfect apple to conclude our visit. 

We snapped a few final pictures and thanked Luis for the fascinating tour. He made sure we took a handful of apples to enjoy for our hiking outing the following day. 

Journey into the Heart of South Tyrol’s Apples

If you’re a fan of apples (and let’s be honest how can you not be), do yourself a favor and explore South Tyrol’s treasured fruit during your visit. Plan a few hikes through the area’s Waalwegs where you can wander by numerous orchards not mention vineyards, forests and Alpine meadows. The aromas and sights you encounter will make your senses dance with joy. Be sure to stop at a wayside hut where you can drop a few coins to sample the local produce and their byproducts. You will not be disappointed.

An excellent place to base yourself for an apple-filled adventure is Preidlhof Hotel & Spa in Naturns.  The resort sits on a mountainside with an apple orchard running right up to its doorstep! A hike not to miss while staying there is to Castel Juval. The trail to this medieval stronghold takes you pass numerous orchards and vineyards and gives you unforgettable views of South Tyrol’s Val Venosta.

South Tyrol Apple Orchard in the Mountains

Hiking Among South Tyrol Apples
South Tyrol apples provide some of the most picturesque ways to capture a mountain view!

If you time your visit right in the spring, you’ll witness the flowering of the apple orchards. The trees awaken with white and violet blooms that blanket the valleys all the way up to the rolling hillsides. Whether exploring on foot or by bike, the blossoming spectacle softly kisses your nose with sweet scents welcoming you to the new season.

You can also time your visit in the fall to partake in apple harvest celebrations. One to consider is the apple festival in Naz-Sciaves. Held in early October each year, the festival includes a grand parade, the crowning of the Apple Queen, live music, dance and of course plenty of scrumptious South Tyrolean goodness.

No matter when you go, no trip to South Tyrol would be complete without trying its world-famous apple strudel. We dive into this traditional treat after almost every hike. It’s the perfect way to end a day of wandering in this corner of paradise.

If this is the first time you’ve heard about South Tyrol, Italy, do your wanderlust heart a favor and discover why it needs to be at the top of your travel wish list. 

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Sudtirol Apples & Adventures