South Tyrol Cuisine

The Best Forking Meal in South Tyrol?

Discovering the best meal in South Tyrol is a bit like trying to find the best mountain view. Next to impossible. Just when you think you have it, another wonder lands in front of you. The area offers a savory cultural stew of Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine where your next meal could be Italian, Tyrolean, German or all three.

On a recent outing into the heart of the Dolomites, we found the perfect place to devour one of South Tyrol’s most popular traditional dishes. The Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut is a rugged yet inviting gem that sits off a trail in the largest Alpine prairie in Europe, Seiser Alm (also known as Alpe di Siusi).

Rustic Goodness in the Heart of the Dolomites

As we approached the hut, a llama kept its eyes on us. We soon saw chickens, goats and rabbits darting around nearby. Ahh “true farm-to-table” I thought to myself, but then realized a small petting zoo also sat on the property.

We surrendered our weary legs to a table on the outdoor patio facing a wide open view of the Langkofel Group (Sassolungo in Italian), an awe-inspiring mass of Dolomite peaks that thunder over the prairie. The first time we saw this massif, its immensity jarred loose any notion of permanence one has on Earth. Taking a break to grab a meal under its stony guard seemed more like a command than a choice.

I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

Soon we were greeted by a young man in traditional Tyrolean garb to take our order. He looked built from the mountain. Kate was immediately smitten. She in no time learned his name, Walter. To up my manliness, I steered the conversation away and ordered a tall Forst beer (Forst is a South Tyrolean brewery located near Merano. They produce a nice light-styled lager that quenches one’s thirst after a good hike). Walter chatted with us a bit longer and we discovered that when he is not taming appetites on the mountain he races horses. Of course he does I thought to myself. I was immediately left wishing I had ordered three Forsts.

A Dish So Tough to Say…it Has to Be Easy to Eat

We browsed through a wooden-clad menu showcasing homemade South Tyrolean specialties. My grumbling stomach locked in on Speckknödelsuppe. The name looked tough. It had to be good. Besides, the name rang a bell.

I recalled reading that Speckknödelsuppe translates to bacon dumpling soup. It is a South Tyrolean classic made with speck, a cured, lightly-smoked ham resembling bacon or proscuitto, and knödel, which is a bread dumpling. Making speck follows age-old principles of using a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air.

The tradition of South Tyrolean dumplings goes back to medieval times. A fresco from the 13th century graces a wall in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle. It shows a man cooking and eating knödel. Any recipe to survive centuries of war and famine must be divine.

A fresco from the 13th century graces a wall in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle. It shows a man cooking and eating knödel. — Medievally marvelous…a 13th century fresco in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle shows a man enjoying knödel.

The Soup You Devour with a Fork

My bowl of Speckknödelsuppe arrived just as I finished my last gulp of beer. Naturally, I ordered another. The dish consisted of two baseball size dumplings in a steamy broth. All made from local ingredients. In no time, I dove in by cutting into the soft, compact lumps with a fork. I recalled that using a knife is an insult to the chef. Not something I am about to do on this mountain.

The cut dumpling revealed an aroma of fresh Alpine herbs. On my first bite I enjoyed a medley of chive, onion and parsley flavors among bits of smoky speck. I took my time with each bite that followed. Nothing could have distracted me from this Alpine glory. Not the breathtaking views of the Dolomites. And not the sobbing child nearby who learned farm chickens are not for petting.

Though the two dumplings plopped in my bowl seemed like a dainty meal at first glance, each Speckknödel packed a serious punch. Leaving the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige hungry was never a concern. And that was before we indulged on some apple strudel. I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.

South Tyrol offers several knödel variations including Speckknödel dumplings without broth. Another popular dish, Knödel Tris, consists of three different dumpling varieties: one with speck, one with cheese and one with spinach. Those with a sweet tooth will want to try dessert knödel — a delectable treat made with lush plums.

A Hearty South Tyrolean Hike is Calling You

Every hearty hike should be followed by a meal of equal heartiness. Words every wanderer should no doubt live by. Fortunately, when you’re trekking through some of the mightiest mountains on the planet, embarking on such a hearty culinary adventure is as natural as your next step. Make Speckknödelsuppe your go-to dish the next time hunger calls in South Tyrol.

Seiser Alm Hiker — Alpine super food? Conquering mountains seems far less formidable after devouring a bowl of Speckknödelsuppe!

And if you’re venturing into Seiser Alm, be sure to visit the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut. Whether you’re dining or just having a drink, its rustic ambiance and panoramic views are the idyllic setting to unwind for a bit. If Walter happens to be your gracious host, tell him hello from Throne & Vine!

If you want to bring the Dolomites into your home (why wouldn’t you?!), check out our post about the cookbook every mountain lover should own.

To learn more about the fascinating flavors of South Tyrol and this Alpine wonderland crowning northern Italy, be sure to subscribe to our email updates.

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The Cookbook Every Mountain Lover Should Own

By Kate & Vin 28 Comments

South Tyrol Alpine Cooking Every wanderer needs a good cookbook. Not for the times when roaming from place to place, but for when the rigors of life call one home. A cookbook filled with culinary treasures from lands explored is a perfect companion to the restless soul bound to labor in his own kitchen.

Nothing transports your senses and enlivens your most cherished memories quite like crafting favorite dishes from adventures abroad.

For us, the cookbook we cannot live without is Alpine Flavours: Authentic recipes from the Dolomites, the heart of the Alps by Miriam Bacher and Franco Cogoli. When pining for the immensity of mountains and wild-hearted treks, we crack open this cultural gem and bring mountain-born goodness to life in our home.

The book beautifully captures the magic behind South Tyrolean specialties, entrees and desserts. From Speckknödel (bacon dumplings) to Schweinshaxe (pork shank) to Hirschgulasch (venison goulash) to an assortment of pastries and apple-filled deliciousness, it allow us to recreate the rich flavors and down-home spirit honed over centuries deep within the Dolomites.

South Tyrol / Italian Alps Cookbook — Alpine Flavours: Authentic recipes from the Dolomites, the heart of the Alps by Miriam Bacher and Franco Cogoli

If there is a cookbook every mountain lover should own this is it. After all, South Tyrol, Italy (also known as Alto Adige or Südtirol) is home to the world’s most tantalizing mountains; it’s no surprise its hearty cuisine offers equal enchantment.

Alpine Flavours not only explores traditional farm-to-table recipes along with well-matched wine pairings, but also carries you along a cultural journey with captivating images throughout. From front to back, the book is crafted like a perfectly plated dish. It could just as easily adorn your coffee table as it could your counter top.

While you can certainly browse directly to whatever dish tempts you at the moment, the book is best devoured one page at a time. If food provides a window into a region’s history, values and soul, Alpine Flavours gives you a sweeping view of the Italian Alps. You’ll come away with a historical foundation of South Tyrol’s cuisine. Not to mention a deep appreciation for how its rural heartiness has evolved into mountain recipes now revered. By the end, you’ll understand why South Tyrol is the culinary star of Italy — boasting more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other region of the country.

Pork Shank Recipe — Rural heartiness at its best. South Tyrolean Schweinshaxe (Pork Shank)

The most characteristic food of South Tyrol are the dumplings called — “Knödel” is the most characteristic food of South Tyrol. This dumpling dish has medieval roots — coming in a variety of types, including spinach, porcini, cheese, speck and much more

Venison goulash recipe — Dishes such as Hirschgulasch (Venison Goulash) exude flavors born from ancient traditions

Meals in South Tyrol are broken into courses and by and large the book follows suit. Those who embrace slow travel and slow food will find this a much simpler transition than those accustomed to hurried meals and conversations. In South Tyrol, like much of Europe, mealtime is both an experience and an art form to appreciate and savor. If you long to harken back to a simpler time, Alpine Flavors can be your guide.

Those with talents less than average in the kitchen, will have have no problem finding dishes they can easily tackle. The book designates recipes by their level of difficulty — easy, medium and high. And at nearly 300 pages, you will not run out of recipes to attempt.

Bring Mountain Recipes to Life in Your Home

As raving fans of South Tyrol, we cannot recommend enough embarking on adventure in this mountainous jewel crowning northern Italy. Nothing will match the experience of savoring a mountain-to-table meal like sitting on the mountain where it was born.

But even if you don’t get the opportunity to make the trip to South Tyrol, Alpine Flavours is a cookbook that undoubtedly belongs on the shelf in your kitchen. Every nature lover, outdoorsman and foodie will find mountain recipes that will delight again and again. It’s an ideal gift for those drawn to rich, rugged heartiness.

South Tyrolean Apple Strudel — South Tyrol is the heart of the apple in Europe. Apple Strudel makes the perfect dessert after a meal or grueling trek

In future posts, we’ll be diving into some of the delectable dishes Alpine Flavours can bestow your dinner table so be sure to sign up for our email list.

Join us as we transform our kitchen into a rifugio (mountain hut). We’ll take you on a journey to new culinary heights all without setting foot on a mountain. Make no mistake though. If the mountain calls, go. Not even your appetite should get in the way of a breathtaking hike.

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