Discovering the best meal in South Tyrol is a bit like trying to find the best mountain view. Next to impossible. Just when you think you have it, another wonder lands in front of you. The area offers a savory cultural stew of Alpine and Mediterranean cuisine where your next meal could be Italian, Tyrolean, German or all three.
On a recent outing into the heart of the Dolomites, we found the perfect place to devour one of South Tyrol’s most popular traditional dishes. The Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut is a rugged yet inviting gem that sits off a trail in the largest Alpine prairie in Europe, Seiser Alm (also known as Alpe di Siusi).
Rustic Goodness in the Heart of the Dolomites
As we approached the hut, a llama kept its eyes on us. We soon saw chickens, goats and rabbits darting around nearby. Ahh “true farm-to-table” I thought to myself, but then realized a small petting zoo also sat on the property.
We surrendered our weary legs to a table on the outdoor patio facing a wide open view of the Langkofel Group (Sassolungo in Italian), an awe-inspiring mass of Dolomite peaks that thunder over the prairie. The first time we saw this massif, its immensity jarred loose any notion of permanence one has on Earth. Taking a break to grab a meal under its stony guard seemed more like a command than a choice.
Soon we were greeted by a young man in traditional Tyrolean garb to take our order. He looked built from the mountain. Kate was immediately smitten. She in no time learned his name, Walter. To up my manliness, I steered the conversation away and ordered a tall Forst beer (Forst is a South Tyrolean brewery located near Merano. They produce a nice light-styled lager that quenches one’s thirst after a good hike). Walter chatted with us a bit longer and we discovered that when he is not taming appetites on the mountain he races horses. Of course he does I thought to myself. I was immediately left wishing I had ordered three Forsts.
A Dish So Tough to Say…it Has to Be Easy to Eat
We browsed through a wooden-clad menu showcasing homemade South Tyrolean specialties. My grumbling stomach locked in on Speckknödelsuppe. The name looked tough. It had to be good. Besides, the name rang a bell.
I recalled reading that Speckknödelsuppe translates to bacon dumpling soup. It is a South Tyrolean classic made with speck, a cured, lightly-smoked ham resembling bacon or proscuitto, and knödel, which is a bread dumpling. Making speck follows age-old principles of using a little salt, a little smoke and lots of fresh mountain air.
The tradition of South Tyrolean dumplings goes back to medieval times. A fresco from the 13th century graces a wall in the chapel of South Tyrol’s Hocheppan Castle. It shows a man cooking and eating knödel. Any recipe to survive centuries of war and famine must be divine.
The Soup You Devour with a Fork
My bowl of Speckknödelsuppe arrived just as I finished my last gulp of beer. Naturally, I ordered another. The dish consisted of two baseball size dumplings in a steamy broth. All made from local ingredients. In no time, I dove in by cutting into the soft, compact lumps with a fork. I recalled that using a knife is an insult to the chef. Not something I am about to do on this mountain.
Though the two dumplings plopped in my bowl seemed like a dainty meal at first glance, each Speckknödel packed a serious punch. Leaving the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige hungry was never a concern. And that was before we indulged on some apple strudel. I finished my last dumpling bite and did my best to scoop up the remaining broth with my fork. I am not sure how South Tyroleans do it, but I am guessing it teeters on the edge of an art form.
South Tyrol offers several knödel variations including Speckknödel dumplings without broth. Another popular dish, Knödel Tris, consists of three different dumpling varieties: one with speck, one with cheese and one with spinach. Those with a sweet tooth will want to try dessert knödel — a delectable treat made with lush plums.
A Hearty South Tyrolean Hike is Calling You
Every hearty hike should be followed by a meal of equal heartiness. Words every wanderer should no doubt live by. Fortunately, when you’re trekking through some of the mightiest mountains on the planet, embarking on such a hearty culinary adventure is as natural as your next step. Make Speckknödelsuppe your go-to dish the next time hunger calls in South Tyrol.
And if you’re venturing into Seiser Alm, be sure to visit the Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut. Whether you’re dining or just having a drink, its rustic ambiance and panoramic views are the idyllic setting to unwind for a bit. If Walter happens to be your gracious host, tell him hello from Throne & Vine!
If you want to bring the Dolomites into your home (why wouldn’t you?!), check out our post about the cookbook every mountain lover should own.
To learn more about the fascinating flavors of South Tyrol and this Alpine wonderland crowning northern Italy, be sure to subscribe to our email updates.
The whole thing sounds divine. Dining on the side of a mountain – fantastic. I LOVE dumplings in soup. I am going to have to look at the cookbook and add this to my repertoire.
Good title. I love local cuisines! They give the true flavour of a place.
Soup with a fork is new to me. I have to taste it some day.
I have never heard of having soup with a fork! Sounds delicious and looks like a great place!
I love how that fresco clearly depicts the historical significance of the meal! And if it has even a hint of a bacon-y ingredient, you know it has to be good!
Haha “A dish so tough to say…it has to be easy to eat” – my thoughts exactly when I saw Speckknödelsuppe. How do you even pronounce that? Your description of the soup is making me hungry! It sounds like the perfect meal for a day hiking in the mountains. I do like the sound of the cheese version, and to end it all with apple strudel sounds delicious!
I have read about Speckknödelsuppe at various places and always wondered how do you pronounce it. I know I would just point to that in the menu and smile.
Your meal sounds amazing! Also, that view is stunning. I remember once stopping at a small, random restaurant when we were hiking in Switzerland and it had a backdrop like this. So many beautiful memories 🙂
Soup with a fork sounds so interesting! I would love to try it one day!
I like how you went into so much detail explaining the flavors, ingredients and history of this dish. I cannot say no to dumplings. We have tried some of the Central European versions and have been delighted every time. My husband is a fan of soup and noodles. This dish combining both would be a treat for him.
I have a love-hate relationship with European dumplings – I love the taste, but my body seems to hate them! But I persist ;-). These Speckknödelsuppe (I admit I had to copy and paste that) look delicious – especially due to the Speck. I had a good giggle at your interactions with Walter the waiter 😉
Eating Speckknödelsuppe (how do you even pronounce that?) with a fork while gazing at amazing mountain views sounds like a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. Sign me up! There’s something comforting about digging into a hearty meal after a hike. This part of the world is heavenly.
The hike, the scenery, the meal. It all sounds quite wonderful!!
Those views are amazing!!! I need to visit.
These dishes sound so yummy. When I go travelling I usually base my days on what I will eat. This summer I’m travelling 3 hours just to try a particular restaurant in London haha.
This sounds wonderfully tasty and I would love to try sometime. Sounds so comforting especially after an amazing hike!
The whole experience sounds amazing! I would love to try some Speckknödel sometime. It looks really tasty! 🙂
The Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut sounds like an incredibly authentic food experience – I would love to try some Speckknödelsuppe, even though I can’t pronounce it either lol! Traditional dumpling stew, with Austrian beer and incredible Alps views – you can’t beat that!
Your travels look so wonderful Being vegan I couldn’t try this dish, but I loved reading about the atmosphere. I’ll have to add this to my destination list!
Thanks Jocelyn! South Tyrol offers several other Knödel dishes to try so you’re in luck when you visit!
I have heard a wonderful things of the people that I know which travel to Tyrol every winter. Those dishes looking amazing. I love chatting with the people which are inhabited on the place that I visit you can get the best info what to visit and do from them.
That does look like the best forking meal and one of the beautiful views that I’ve seen.
Ah, that steamy broth with two huge dumplings sounds heavenly! And so does eating it at Malga Schgaguler Schwaige mountain hut. I love dumplings soup but I would have eaten this dish with a spoon.
It sounds like there is so much great food in South Tyrol, which is great because I’m a huge foodie! The Speckknödelsuppe looks really tasty but I’ll be damned if I can work out how to pronounce it haha! I love a well made dumpling – I’ll definitely try this!
Having an exotic meal in such pristine surroundings must indeed be quite an experience. I was fascinated by the fact that the Tyroleans have mastered the fine art of eating the broth with the fork. I guess it may take ages for lesser mortals to master. The dumplings dish that you had called Speckknödelsuppe is by itself literally a mouthful.
Great title. I had to do a second take to make sure I read it right. Lol. There is some so fitting about a heart bowl of soup beside a mountain. It would be the perfect meal after hiking around all day.
You’re a wonderful story teller! I felt like I was right there with you. Obviously it’d be better if I could try the dumpling too though. It sounded delicious. I wouldn’t mind trying the dumpling with the plums too though; thanks for that tip!
The best thing we can do when on vacation is tasting the local cuisines. Love the way you shared your experience–little bit like a story.